January 2023
Winning wines were selected by a panel of independent wine specialists from across the UK
There’s more to New Zealand than its famous Sauvignon Blanc, as our eclectic list of winners demonstrates
In October 2022, a team of 12 tasters, mostly independent merchants, were invited to The New Zealand High Commission in London to assess nearly 400 wines.
It was the third time that The Wine Merchant magazine had teamed up with New Zealand Winegrowers for a project of this type. The aim was for judges to taste and discuss the wines in front of them and to select their favourites, based on flavour credentials, value for money, packaging and commercial appeal.
This supplement profiles the 50 top performing wines on the day, and also provides a run-down of those that narrowly missed the cut, but still impressed our panel.
Most of the wines we tasted are already available in the UK through importers that independent merchants will recognise. A few are on the look-out for distribution partners in the UK.
A supplement published with The Wine Merchant magazine
January 2023 in association with New Zealand Winegrowers
www.winemerchantmag.com www.nzwine.com
© Graham Holter Ltd 2023
All prices quoted are recommended retail prices.
For more information about any featured wines or New Zealand wines in the UK generally, contact market manager Chris Stroud: cstroud@nzwine.com
Cover photography: PatrikStedrak / iStock Judging photography: Margaret Feord
New Zealand wine has plenty of reasons to feel optimistic right now. As Clive Jones and Fabian Yukich, respectively the chair and vicechair of New Zealand Winegrowers, say in their introduction to the New Zealand Winegrowers’ Annual Report 2022, many of the conditions that have made the past couple of years a challenge for wine producers everywhere have receded.
“After two years of Covid chaos, New Zealand grape growers and wineries are looking to the future with renewed certainty and confidence,” the report says. “An improved harvest, accessible markets, and consumers demanding more New Zealand wine than ever, are huge benefits for the sector.”
That “improved harvest” is perhaps what is exciting New Zealand’s producers and their customers the most, enabling them to meet demand in a way the dramatically smaller 2021 could not.
“Going into harvest 2022, our customers, alongside growers and wineries, were desperate for an improved vintage,” the report says. “Fortunately, nature delivered, despite all the complications imposed by staff shortages and Covid.
“The harvest of 532,000 tonnes will enable severely depleted cellars and supply
chains to be restocked.”
The report continues: “In this environment, growers and wineries are focusing on the core fundamentals that drive the success of our sector, supplying our customers across the globe with highly distinctive, premium, sustainable wines that can only be sourced from the regions and subregions of Aotearoa New Zealand.”
It’s those “distinctive, premium, sustainable wines” that are the subject of this supplement. Over the next few pages, you’ll find a selection that we – the Wine Merchant team and our panel of 12 top independent merchant judges – feel represents some of the very best of a country that has always been a favourite in the independent retail sector.
It wasn’t an easy choice. Only one in eight wines could make the final selection of 50, and there were many wines that we would have liked to include that only just missed the cut: hence our selection of 62 Highly Commended wines, all of which are very much worth further investigation.
Across the 50 and the Highly Commended wines, what stands out is just how fast New Zealand is developing as a wine country. That’s immediately clear in the stylistic and varietal mix. Anyone who is still labouring under the impression that
New Zealand is all about one, gooseberryscented style will be pleasantly surprised by the numbers: Sauvignon Blanc accounts for around a third of the winning white wines (10 out of 29 in the Top 50). And even within those 10, the stylistic variety of New Zealand Sauvignon makes it much more difficult to stereotype.
There is a similarly broad spectrum of characterful wines among the eight Chardonnay, six Riesling and four Pinot Gris, while the potential of Albariño and Viognier in New Zealand was also noted by the judges.
On the red, side Pinot Noir remains New Zealand’s trump card, and the combination of maturing vines and greater understanding of the conditions means these wines are increasingly regionally distinctive. Whether they’re made in Marlborough to Nelson to Central Otago, the New Zealand Pinot Noirs in this supplement have a genuine sense of place.
So, too, do the Bordeaux blends and – a first for this selection – the Tannat that make up the rest of the list. These are without question “highly distinctive, premium, sustainable wines that can only be sourced from the regions and subregions of Aotearoa New Zealand.” We hope you enjoy trying as many as you can.
Albariño is really beginning to take off in New Zealand, and Esk Valley’s example, sourced from a single site on a gravel river terrace in Hawke’s Bay, makes the case for a distinctive Kiwi version that is more than a match for the variety’s homeland in Galicia and northern Portugal.
The judges enjoyed the “vibrant palate, which is zesty with citrus and ripe nectarines” in a wine that is born to go with seafood.
£16
Central Otago, seeking UK representation
Plant scientist Kirstin Wright and her husband Paul are at the helm of the Three Miners project, with the duo making Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and this scintillating Riesling from the eponymous 15.5ha Central Otago vineyard first established in 2000.
“Unexpected nose of white liquorice, herbal pear and honeysuckle,” the judges said. “Lovely subtle sweetness; honeyed and candied citrus peel. Nice depth. Great spicy food wine.”
£15.35
Taking its name from the two rivers – the Awatere and the Wairau – that “feed the winegrowing heart” of Marlborough, Two Rivers is the work of Awatere native and Wairau resident David Clouston, a well-travelled winemaker with experience in USA, Chile, Spain, France and Corsica. “Floral, petrol, fresh and linear German style, with texture and creamy leesy notes,” said the judges. “Well balanced, a good long finish, and it holds together very well.”
£22
Waipara, New Generation Wines
Ivan Donaldson planted the first Canterbury vineyard in 1976 before going on to start Pegasus Bay with his wife Christine a decade afterwards. Thirty-seven years later the family business is still at the top of the New Zealand wine tree, with this Riesling, sourced from a single vineyard in Waipara, one of the best in the country. “Rich, mineral, slight petillance, dried fruits, apricots, honey: a complex, full rich style – a food wine with a touch of marmalade and a long, long finish,” said the judges.
Marlborough, Lawson’s Dry Hills
One of the leaders of the early days of the modern New Zealand wine boom, Lawson’s Dry Hills is now entering its fourth decade as a wine producer, making a range of classic Marlbrough wines from fruit grown in the region’s Wairau, Waihopai, Omaka and Awatere Valleys.
With 8g residual sugar and 11.5% abv, the Riesling is “spot on”, the judges said. “Light green in appearance, this is a mouthfilling style, and the fruit is very ripe but balanced with lovely acidity.”
Marlborough, Liberty Wines
Framingham’s 19.5ha Marlborough estate vineyard has been certified organic since 2014, but the producer has been building its reputation for aromatic varieties such as Riesling and, in this case, Pinot Gris, as well as Sauvignon Blanc, since releasing its first wine in 1994.
Explicitly inspired by Alsace, and produced from fruit sourced from three Central Wairau sites, the wine is “really well made” the judges said. “It has an elegant floral nose, and a beautifully balanced palate with richness and freshness and a long finish.”
The second wine from Kirstin and Paul Wright’s impressive up-and-coming Central Otago estate to make this year’s Top 50 is a hand-harvested Pinot Gris from the Three Miners vineyard near Alexandra.
At 13.5% abv and with 5.6g/l of sugar, it won over the judges with a nose of “gooseberry fool. On the palate it’s full and round with honeysuckle a nice texture and a really long finish. A generous but balanced wine.”
Winemaker Rod McDonald has a selection of some of Hawke’s Bay’s finest sites to work with at Te Awanga Estate, which is now farmed 100% organically. The estate’s Wildsong range is designed to be accessible and “upfront tasty” without being “simple” and always retaining a sense of place. It’s a blend of qualities that was clear to the judges. “Nice and rich with juicy nectarine fruit, but really clean and vibrant, this is easy-drinking yet pairs really well with food. Great value.”
Rather neatly, Seresin Estate, one of the leaders of biodynamic viticulture in New Zealand, has looked to one of the practice’s European homes, Alsace, for the inspiration for this three-way blend of Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Riesling. Spontaneously fermented and then aged in neutral oak for three months with occasional lees-stirring, it’s a “very sophisticated wine”, said the judges. “Waxy lime-zest Riesling on the nose, round Pinot Gris on the palate; it’s saline and complex, with a long finish.”
With vineyards in Hawke’s Bay and Marlbrough, Snapper Rock has sourcing sewn up for its range of premium wines, which includes Chardonnay, Bordeaux blends, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and this Sauvignon Blanc from a newly acquired 8ha block in Waihopai Valley known as the “ika vineyard” after the Maori word for fish.
“Smoky and well balanced; this is the best value wine of the day,” the judges said.
Star Kiwi winemaker Ben Glover’s much-loved sister Kate was nicknamed Bob by their family – a reference to a character in BBC sitcom, Blackadder. After Kate passed away in 2018, Glover sought to make a wine that would honour his sister’s “honesty, purity and confidence”, and the result is this “superb” Sauvignon Blanc.
“There’s a lot of depth and concentration here, in a wine with a super-fresh finish,” the judges said. £11.50
£14.99 £18.49
As it is named after a local spring, it’s perhaps not surprising that water is taken seriously here, with investment in irrigation and purification technology resulting in water use that’s 40% lower than the national average. It’s all part of the attention to detail that produces award-winning wines like this “smoky, complex and nicely balanced” Sauvignon with its “herbaceous and peppery nose, and lovely tropical notes of charred pineapple, and crisp bell pepper.”
Marlborough, Enotria&Coe
Experts in sustainability and Sauvignon Blanc, Yealands is a two-time star performer in the section of this year’s Top 50 devoted to what is still New Zealand’s most significant grape variety. The first of the estate’s two Savvy winners comes from an organically farmed vineyard block situated between the winery and the coast. “Attractive stone fruit nose, then some gooseberry juiciness coming through: good fruit with lots of racy energy and freshness.”
Marlborough, seeking UK representation
The second entry for the talented Edel Everling and Warwick Foley’s boutique Marlborough winery on this year’s Top 50 list is a classic example of the region’s most famous style, which, the judges felt, was a cut above many of its rivals.
“Very full nose: sophisticated, with an attractive bitterness,” the judges said. “On the palate, it’s soft, rounded and ripe, balanced and generous, full but fresh with a nicely tangy finish.” £17.50
£17.50 £16
Sauvignon Blanc 2022
Marlborough, Liberty Wines
Kevin Judd was the winemaking mind behind many of the early greats of Marlborough wine. But, when it comes to sheer fine-wine quality, his Greywacke project – founded in 2009 and named for the distinctive river stones in his first Marlborough vineyard in Rapaura – may well be his most successful of all. The estate Sauvignon certainly seemed to be on form this vintage. “It’s full of life and energy,” the judges said. “Good fruit and nice juiciness and succulence.”
Nelson, Fells
It’s now almost half a century since Agnes and Hermann Seifried’s first harvest in 1976, and this pioneering estate remains at the forefront of Nelson and New Zealand wine. Their Sauvignon is sourced from a single vineyard some 15km from the sea under the Richmond Ranges on the southern end of the Waimea Plains. “All the classic Sauvignon characteristics in harmony: very nice on the nose, crunchy bell pepper, al-dente asparagus, nice texture, and a wisp of pepper.”
Central Otago, Enotria&Coe
A producer that has earned plaudits for its ecologically-minded approach as well as for the high quality of its wines, Peregrine works closely with conservation charities to help protect New Zealand’s rarest native birds. The green approach naturally leads to organic viticulture, with the handharvested fruit for this Sauvignon coming from Bendigo and Cromwell Basin. “Very nice balance, with an expressive nose and a juicy stonefruited palate. Great quality and depth.”
Gladstone, Enotria&Coe
Complexity is the name of the game with Urlar’s approach to Sauvignon Blanc, with the Gladstone producer fermenting 25% of this blend in oak barriques, while another 25% portion was given extra time on the lees for “aromatic spice and texture”.
With the balance fermented in stainless steel for maximium varietal expression, this is “a fresh and zesty take on Sauvignon Blanc”, the judges said.
“The oak is really well integrated and the result is a wine of real elegance.”
Marlborough, Enotria&Coe
Yealands’ State of Flux wines are perhaps the pinnacle of its range, with this Sauvignon Blanc certainly among the best at the Top 50 tasting. It’s a single-vineyard bottling, from a block overlooking the Awatere river, which has been fermented and aged for 11 months in concrete eggs, keeping the lees in a “state of constant flux”.
“This is Marlborough Sauvignon with great typicity, but it also has complexity,” said the judges. “Ripe passion fruit with matchstick, lees and great texture.”
Hawke’s Bay, The Antipodean Sommelier
One of New Zealand’s most experienced and talented winemakers, Tony Bish is still finding ways to innovate, and was among the first winemakers to introduce both concrete and wooden egg-shaped fermentation vessels to New Zealand. Bish’s Heartwood Chardonnay is a typically complex creation with, the judges said, “light smoke, lees, clove spice, vanilla pod, lime and grapefruit all coming together on a fresh and racy palate”.
Hawke’s Bay, Boutinot
Sileni Estates’ flagship Chardonnay makes the most of two very different Hawke’s Bay sub-regions: it’s a blend of fruit from the warm Bridge Pa Triangle and the cooler Mangatahi which is whole-bunch pressed then fermented in French oak barriques.
“A wine that is gently aromatic but gives lots of nutty slightly marzipanstyle aromas,” the judges said. “Entirely quaffable!”
£23.75 £31.99
Clive Dougall and Peter Lorimer’s Deep Down is an example of the new wave of boutique producers that are shaking up Marlborough and New Zealand, with a range of organic, small-batch, wildfermented, single-vineyard wines. Aged for nine months in 15% new, tight-grained French oak, the duo’s Chardonnay is “fresh but also rich”, the judges said.
“It’s the kind of Chardonnay that true lovers of Chardonnay will love to drink.”
The multi-award-winning wine consultant Matt Thomson and Master of Wine Sophie Parker-Thomson call their Blank Canvas project a “vinous studio” where “art meets science” – a place for the duo to experiment and produce a range of single-vineyard bottlings from sites across New Zealand. Their Marlborough Chardonnay has “a reductive burnt-match note, with a grapefruit burst,” the judges said. “Lean and refined, taut with distinct minerality. Classy.”
There’s clearly something very special about the Keltern vineyard. Planted on an ancient riverbed east of the Maraekakaho region in Hawke’s Bay in 1999, it produces some of Villa Maria’s very finest Chardonnay grapes, which, thanks to sensitive winemaking, result in a single-vineyard wine that really impressed the judges. “This is a linear style, but with delightful stone fruits, freshness and citrus acidity. Lots of complexity and really good structure. A really good wine (and label).”
Thanks to all of this year’s judges, who kindly gave up their time to lend their enthusiastic expertise during a rigorous day of judging at the New Zealand High Commission
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Marlborough, Enotria&Coe
Set on the eastern end of Waiheke Island, Man O’ War has been identified by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate as “one of New Zealand’s greatest wineries in the making and one to watch”.
Sourced from a range of dry-farmed vineyards, and fermented and aged in 500-litre French oak puncheons, the Valhalla Chardonnay “has notes of burnt toast, lemon curd and tangerine. Super-concentrated fruit: zingy, tangy and long,” the judges said.
Marlborough, Jeroboams Trade
Star winemaker Tamra Kelly Washington and her husband Simon Kelly ‘s boutique project sources the Chardonnay for this organic cuvée from an old vineyard in the Rapaura subregion of Marlborough.
The winemaking is determinedly hands-off, “with just a peek in the barrel from time to time”.
It’s an approach that certainly works for our judges. “Very delicate on the oak, but it still has lots of presence,” they said. “A very pretty Chablis-esque Chardonnay. Love the label.”
Nelson, Bibendum
One of the early pioneers of modern New Zealand wine, Neudorf is synonymous with Nelson and fine Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. Sourced from a single block on the clay gravel soils of Moutere, this Chardonnay is named after Neudorf founders Tim and Judy Finn’s daughter Rosie. Fermented and aged in French oak, it is “beautifully integrated with a salty, mineral palate; concentrated and balanced with delicious pure peach fruit, and vanilla”.
Hawke’s Bay, Synergy Wines
A small family producer situated on the Napier-Taihape Road in Hawke’s Bay, De La Terre has one of the most intriguingly diverse selection of grape varieties in New Zealand at its disposal. And it was with two lesser-spotted southern French grape varieties that the estate won over the judges at this year’s New Zealand Top 50.
The first, a white, is a 100% barrelfermented Viognier, that is, according to the judges, “an excellent example of the variety, showing minerality and herbal notes with rich peach and apricot fruit.”
Marlborough, seeking UK representation
“Tiraki” is Maori for “clearing of the sky”, an apt name for this new Marlborough project, born during the pandemic lockdowns, the idea of three siblings and a friend who had come to New Zealand in March 2020 before the world went silent and decided to make wine from the family farm. “Good shelf appeal; nice nose; coffee, chocolate, meat, smoke,” said the judges. “Oodles of cherries. Lovely savoury palate and an opulent finish.”
Pinot Noir 2021
Wairarapa, Vinfinity
With 75ha of vineyards in Wairarapa, plus parcels of Syrah and Chardonnay in Hawke’s Bay, Matahiwi is a name to watch with a big focus on sustainability and a range of criticially acclaimed wines. The estate Pinot Noir comes from a mix of rootstocks and clones, and is aged in a mix of barrel and tank for eight months. “It has a beautifully aromatic nose; the palate is soft and juicy with red fruit and liquorice notes,” the judges said. “A great example of what you’d hope for from New Zealand Pinot Noir.”
Having established first Gibbston Valley Wines and then Mount Edward, Central Otago winemaker Alan Brady was supposed to have retired in 2005. Such is his love for Pinot Noir, however, he is still making tiny quantities under the Wild Irishman label from singlevineyard sites in the region.
“Floral cherry, fresh and vibrant –great wine, with food or on its own,” said the judges. “It came as a really pleasant surprise since the packaging really needs a review.”
It’s now 110 years since Josip Babich planted his first vineyard east of Auckland in 1912, and New Zealand’s oldest family-owned winery, which was also an early champion of sustainability, continues to go from strength to strength. Using 100% estate fruit from the Babich Marlborough vineyards, which is fermented in open-top fermenters, the Black Label Pinot is “generously fruited with a peppery finish,” the judges said. “Complex and really interesting.”
The third of a well-regarded trio in this year’s Top 50 from this Central Otago producer – a performance which the judges certainly hope will secure the brand some UK representation sooner rather than later.
As with all the Three Miners’ wines, the fruit was hand-harvested from the estate’s vineyard in Alexandra. Aged in French oak, it is “terrifically smooth and soft”, the judges said. “Seamless, with no hard edges, the fruit really speaks.”
With vineyards and partners in some of the best sites in Wairarapa and Hawke’s Bay, Gladstone is a dedicated Pinot Noir specialist, which has been run since 2018 by flying winemaker Eddie McDougall after a successful 20-year stewardship by the Kernohan family, who had transformed the estate.
Aged in 15% new French oak, the estate Pinot Noir “shows its class from the very first sniff”, the judges said. “Elegant and restrained with lovely fruit and beautifully integrated tannins.”
The second wine from the Donaldson family’s fine North Canterbury producer in this year’s list is the ideal complement for the Bel Canto Dry Riesling: an elegant Pinot Noir made using traditional Burgundian winemaking methods from a single vineyard on the Glasnevin Gravels in the Waipara Valley. “A really intriguing meatysavoury nose,” the judges said. “It’s ripe and concentrated but well balanced, with a good tart finish.”
The objective for Central Otago’s Neck of the Woods is boldy expressed on the producer’s website: “We’re not interested in making mass-produced shit. We believe in bold tastes and bolder characters.”
In the case of the Master Abel cuvée, that means using 15% to 25% whole cluster and ageing in fine-grain French oak for a wine that is “invitingly soft and smooth – really good texture, and deliciously ripe, well-judged fruit”.
Very much a family affair, Wooing Tree was set up by husband and wife Stephen and Thea Farquharson and Stephen’s sister and brother-in-law, Jane and Geoff Bews – a return to their farming backgrounds after years working in IT. Based around a single eponymous vineyard in Cromwell, Central Otago, Pinot is inevitably a focus, with the estate wine featuring 7% whole-bunch fermentation and 100% French Oak for 10 months.
“A Pinot on the lighter, more refreshing side with a pleasantly fruity feel,” said the judges.
Tiwha Pinot Noir 2019
Central Otago, Coal Pit Wines
A small-producer Central Otago operation, Coal Pit is based around a 12ha vineyard, with 7ha planted to Pinot Noir and Sauvignon in 1994 –some of the oldest vines in the Gibbston district. The Tiwha Pinot is made from destemmed fruit, which is given a cold soak of four to six days, and barrel maturation for 10 months in 28% new French oak. “Very nicely made with good depth of fruit and really elegant concentration,” the judges said.
The second wine from the impressive Te Kano in this year’s list makes full use of the Lloyd family’s two vineyard sites in Central Otago’s Bannockburn district: the sandy-soiled, 20-year-old, 4.6ha Jerome; and the 18-year-old, 4.5ha Eliza with its silt, clay and alluvial soils. “It’s a yummy wine that’s got it all going on,” the judges said.
“There are soft cherry and minerals on the palate, liquorice and spice and excellent length and texture.”
£22.50
Pinot Noir 2018
Californian winemaker Rhonda Lloyd set up her project in Northburn in Central Otago after visiting the region with her New Zealand partner. With a laudable emphasis on sustainability and conservation, the wines, too, are earning plaudits, with the estate Pinot Noir having “great shelf appeal”, according to the judges.
“Mineral, savoury nose with a hint of meantiness; an engaging texture, nice richness and plenty of fruit.”
Pinot Noir fruit from organically farmed, high-density vineyards in Rapaura and Wairau is hand-picked and fermented using wild yeasts before ageing for 12 months in French oak barriques for this “high-quality” Marlborough Pinot from the Sowman brothers’ boutique Walnut Block winery.
“Gorgeous floral and cherry nose,” said the judges. “Great fruit and acidity in excellent balance. Juicy cranberry and red cherries on the palate, which is succulent and long. Really nicely done and good value, too.”
Pinot Noir 2017
As well as being masters of Sauvignon Blanc, Yealands is responsible for some of Marlborough’s most consistent Pinots, with this Reserve making use of a special north-facing slope in the Awatere Valley. The wine is aged for 12 months in 30% new Burgundy barrels.
“Generous fruit with a smooth finish that’s very easy to like,” said the judges.
“Soft and full and enticing, with ripe fruit and integrated oak.”
Penny Edwards: The Riesling and Pinot Gris were by far my favourites, with some excellent Pinot Noir. The Sauvignons were elegant.
Katya Sapozhnikova: It was very interesting not only to see how “classic” New Zealand grapes like Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir evolve, and how varied the styles of these wines have become, but also how well aromatic grape varieties, like Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Albariño, perform. This seems to reflect the shift in the demand and interest in other grape varieties coming from New Zealand.
Alan Irvine: I got a lot of balance in the wines, and it’s good to hear harvest was back to normal levels. It was good to see more specific site references within Marlborough to show you can get cooler-climate styles within the region. There is always a good consistency of style and that was evident in all the wines we tasted. Viognier and Riesling were stand-outs for me personally, picking out distinct varietal definition and quality well suited for restaurants and lovers of a good wine, with complexity and a distinct cleansing finish.
Alan Irvine: We are in a strange position in that core New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc has never been a major player for us as we are on the doorstep of Tesco and M&S. Customers have elevated to barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc and we push Pinot Gris as a viable drinking alternative. Pinot Noir from New Zealand sells well and we have a balanced range of fruity Marlborough to more serious and ethereal Central Otago wines.
Katya Sapozhnikova: While Sauvignon Blanc was the gateway, followed by Pinot Noir, now customers are looking beyond the regional and varietal stereotypes, with Chardonnay becoming more important, as well as aromatic whites.
Penny Edwards: Yes, I’ll be adding more top-end Pinot Noir and continuing to push aromatic white varieties.
Charles Lea: We are looking to broaden our range if we can find the right producers with the right wines at the right prices.
Katya Sapozhnikova: Yes, definitely, and recently we were excited to add and represent the iconic Waiheke winery Stonyridge.
Alan Irvine: We could definitely be a bit more adventurous with our offering on New Zealand, and this tasting has given me great scope to do so.
£43.49 £26.99
With a vineyard in Gevrey-Chambertin to go with its sites in Central Otago, there is no shortage of Pinot Noir (and Chardonnay) expertise at Domaine Thomson.
The Surveyor Thomson Pinot exemplifies that expertise, with the judges responding to the “elegance and class” of a wine that is “smoky with charred earth on the nose. A hint of jam and bisuity undertones, nicely integrated with a super-sophisticated finish. Very balanced and enjoyable.”
The Allan family’s quality-conscious, organic estate celebrated its first quarter-century anniversary last year, a period in which they have cemented Huia’s reputation as one of the finest producers in Marlborough. The 9ha vineyard in the Rapaura is now well established, lending real depth to this Pinot Noir, which is aged for 12 months on lees in French oak, and then 11 months in neutral oak, before bottling. “Savoury, cherry, soft and fresh with lovely tannins and acidity and light violet notes,” said the judges.”
£22.99
Although it is still relatively unusual to find single-varietal Cab Franc in New Zealand, it’s not all that surprising that a Loire red variety should fare as well in the country’s vineyards as a certain white variety from the French region. Certainly, our judges were delighted to taste this version from the pioneering Nelson producer, giving it some of the highest scores of any wine in the tasting. “Elegant, perfumed, complex and just really interesting, with loads of fruit,” the judges said. “More please!”
Founded in 1851, Mission Estate is a piece of living New Zealand wine history, with long-serving winemaker
Paul Mooney creating some of New Zealand’s best reds from sustainable vineyards. Sourced from sites in Gimblett Gravels, and aged for 12 months in 25% new French oak, it’s a “classy” wine that has “notes of liquorice, herbs, chocolate and mint, with good, very well integrated tannins,” the judges said.
Waiheke Island, Enotria&Coe
Another superb Bordeaux-style blend from the Waiheke Island producer, which was among the most popular with judges, with three wines making the final selection. It’s a blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot with a little Petit Verdot, featuring fruit from both Waiheke Island and the neighbouring Ponui Island. “Smoky, meaty, chocolate, cocoa, coffee, sweet spice … oodles of complexity on the nose,” said the judges. “Very smooth on the palate, well integrated and very drinkable. Long finish.”
Man O’ War is well-equipped to make some of New Zealand’s finest Bordeaux-style blends: it has some 15 different vineyard sites, planted to the five traditional Bordeaux varieties, to draw upon.
Here the blend is predominantly Merlot and Cabernet Franc, which is hand harvested, and the blend remains in barrel for 20 months on the gross lees. It all adds up to a wine that is “very impressive and well balanced”, said the judges. “There’s a savoury/ leathery nose and good fruit with a long, ripe finish.”
Hawke’s Bay, Synergy Wines
Wine number two in this year’s Top 50 for De La Terre, and it’s another unusual variety, Tannat, from Madiran in south west France, providing a red foil for the white Rhône-alike Viognier. The famously tannic grape is made here with “approximately 30% new French oak” and it’s “unfined and unfiltered”. “Bright, crunchy cherry; and a silky smooth, velvet texture. It’s unusual to find such an appealingly crunchy version of this grape,” the judges said, adding: “It’s really super!”
Marlborough, seeking representation
A place in the Top 50 probably won’t come as a surprise to Edel Everling and Warwick Foley, the dynamic winemaking duo behind Marlbrough’s Johanneshof: their botrytised Riesling, conceived as a tribute to German trockenbeerenauslese, has picked up multiple prizes and high critics’ scores over the years. As the judges said, it’s a wine with a “lovely aromatic nose and great acidity: tangy and beautifully balanced with dried/candied fruit and great length. A great dessert wine.”
All prices quoted are RRPs
Sparkling
Hunter’s MiruMiru, Marlborough NV (£21.95, Jeroboams Trade)
Hunter’s Offshoot Sauvignon Blanc Pet Nat NV (£19.95, Jeroboams Trade)
Johanneshof Cellars EMMI Méthode Tradionnelle Brut 2011 (NZ$50, FOB, seeking UK representation)
White
Akitu Pinot Noir Blanc, Central Otago 2022 (£32, Mentzendorff)
Astrolabe Taihoa Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2020 (£30, Armit Wines)
Borthwick Vineyards Paddy Borthwick Riesling, Wairarapa 2021 (£16.99, Armit Wines)
Borthwick Vineyards Paper Road CPR, Wairarapa 2020 (£16.50, Armit Wines)
Borthwick Vineyards Paper Road Sauvignon Blanc, Wairarapa 2021 (£17, Armit Wines)
Haha Wine Company Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (£14, Morgenrot Group)
Hunter’s Offshoot Chardonnay, Marlborough 2019 (£21.95, Jeroboams Trade)
Hunter’s Riesling, Marlborough 2021 (£13.95, Jeroboams Trade)
Lawson’s Dry Hills Reserve Chardonnay, Marlborough 2018 (£18.50, Lawson’s Dry Hills)
Lawson’s Dry Hills Gewürztraminer, Marlborough 2019 (£15, Lawson’s Dry Hills)
Loveblock TEE, Marlborough 2021 (£23.50, Graft Wine Company)
Man O’ War Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Waiheke Island, Auckland 2021 (£19.95, Enotria&Coe)
Matawhero Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Gisborne 2022 (£16.50, Vindependents)
Monowai Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Hawke’s Bay 2022 (£25, seeking UK representation)
Nautilus The Paper Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2021 (£25.99, Fells)
Nautilus Estate Albariño, Marlborough 2022 (£21.99, Fells)
Riverby Estate Chardonnay, Marlborough 2021 (£24, Black Dog Wine Agency)
Riverby Estate Cyrene, Marlborough 2016 (£28, Black Dog Wine Agency)
Riverby Estate Sali’s Block Riesling, Marlborough 2022 (£18, Black Dog Wine Agency)
Saint Clair Sauvignon Blanc Barrique, Marlborough 2020 (£20.25, Hallgarten & Novum Wines)
Seresin Reserve Chardonnay Organic, Marlborough 2018 (£28, Enotria&Coe)
Sileni Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2022 (£9.99, Boutinot)
Spoke Brink, Marlborough 2021 (£21.95, Vineyard Productions)
Spoke Resolute Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2021 (£21.95, Vineyard Productions)
Spy Valley E Block Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2021 (£18, Bibendum)
Te Kano Chardonnay, Central Otago 2021 (£27.50, Davy’s Wine Merchants)
Te Pa Family Vineyards Pa Road Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2022 (£17, Buckingham Schenk)
Tiki Wine & Vineyards Single Vineyard Pinot Gris, North Canterbury 2022 (£17.99, Castelnau
Wine Agencies)
Tohu Manaaki Chardonnay, Marlborough 2021 (£15.49, North South Wines)
Two Rivers Clos des Pierres Chardonnay, Marlborough 2020 (£22, The Antipodean Sommelier)
Urlar Gladstone Vineyard Estate Pinot Gris, Wairarapa 2019 (£19, Vindependents)
Kelly Washington Organic Sauvignon Blanc. Marlborough 2019 (£24.95, Jeroboams Trade)
Rosé
Rockburn Stolen Kiss Rosé, Central Otago 2022 (£20, Hallgarten & Novum Wines)
Snapper Rock Rosé Sauvignon, Marlborough 2022 (£11.50, The Antipodean Sommelier)
Te Kano Rosé, Central Otago 2021 (£20.95, Davy’s Wine Merchants)
Red
Akitu A1 Pinot Noir, Central Otago 2019 (£42, Mentzendorff)
Ata Rangi Marlborough Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2019 (£67.99, Liberty Wines)
Bald Hills Single Vineyard Bannockburn Pinot Noir, Central Otago 2018 (NZ$48 FOB, seeking UK representation)
Blackenbrook Nelson Family Reserve Pinot Noir, Nelson 2017 (£26, Amathus Drinks)
Blank Canvas Settlement Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2019 (£36.99, Liberty Wines)
De la Terre Syrah, Hawke’s Bay 2017 (£24, Synergy Wines)
Delta Estate Hatters Hill Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2019 (£21.95, Hennings Wine Merchants)
Glover Family Vineyards Bob Short for Kate Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2020 (£22.49, Bancroft Wines)
McArthur Ridge Brassknocker Pinot Noir, Central Otago 2021 (Seeking UK representation)
Matahiwi Estate Holly Pinot Noir 2021 (£TBC, Vinfinity)
Mills Reef Reserve Syrah, Hawke’s Bay 2021 (NZ$26, The Wine Portfolio UK) Continues
Mount Edward Pinot Noir, Central Otago 2019 (£30.50, Alliance Wine)
Neudorf Tom’s Block Pinot Noir, Nelson 2019 (£25.50, Bibendum)
Nga Waka Lease Block Pinot Noir, Martinborough 2020 (£29.95, Jeroboams Trade)
Peregrine Pinot Noir Mohua, Central Otago 2018 (£25, Enotria&Coe)
Riverby Estate Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2021 (£26, Black Dog Wine Agencies)
Rockburn Pinot Noir, Central Otago 2021 (£30, Hallgarten & Novum Wines)
Te Awanga Estate Wildsong Organic Pinot Noir, Hawke’s Bay 2021 (£18.99, North South Wines)
Te Mata Estate Vineyards Gamay Noir, Hawke’s Bay 2021 (£19.99, Fells)
Two Rivers of Marlborough Amphitheatre Syrah, Marlborough 2020 (£22, The Antipodean Sommelier)
Urlar Organic Pinot Noir, Wairarapa 2020 (£23.50, Enotria&Coe)
Kelly Washington Pinot Noir, Central Otago 2018 (£34.95, Jeroboams Trade)
Wild Irishman Doctors Flat Vineyard Pinot Noir, Bannockburn, Central Otago 2021 (£40-£50, Robb Brothers; Farr Vintners)
Zephyr Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2021 (£20.50, Alliance Wine)
