4 minute read
Sparkling wines
Roebuck Estates Classic Cuvée Sussex, England 2017
Based around a “home vineyard” near the village of Tillington in West Sussex, but with a collection of vineyards across the county, Roebuck Estates is part of the front rank of English sparkling wine producers, and this Classic Cuvée blend is its flagship wine.
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The Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier fruit, which is handpicked at the estate’s Roebuck and Roman Villa vineyards, is wholebunch pressed and then partially fermented in oak before lees ageing for a minimum of 36 months.
“An outstanding example of English sparkling wine that marries wonderful depth of flavour and fine mousse with clarity, precision and citrussy freshness,” the judges said. “Very fairly priced – super quality and character.”
Southern England Wines
RRP £38 ABV 12%
Champagne de Saint Gall Orpale Grand Cru Champagne
Champagne, France 2008
Champagne de Saint Gall is the house brand of Union Champagne, a “co-operative of cooperatives” formed by growers in premier and grand cru villages in 1966, and which today is made up of 15 different organisations representing more than 2,300 “labourers, winegrowers, winemakers and oenologists”.
The Orpale Grand Cru cuvée is the top of the producer’s range, a 100% Grand Cru Chardonnay, in which part of the blend does not go through malolactic, and with long ageing before release.
“Aromas of brioche with hints of roasted almond following through to an intense but elegant palate,” the judges said. “Notes of poached apple, fruit crumble and toffee. Superb.”
Daniel Lambert Wines
RRP £110 ABV 12.5%
Champagne de Saint-Gall Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut
Champagne, France NV
The second wine from this remarkable highperforming co-operative in this year’s Top 100 is another showcase for the magnificent Chardonnay vineyards that the organisation’s 15 members have at their disposal.
A 100% Chardonnay, it is sourced exclusively from grand cru vineyards in the Côte des Blancs, and it impressed the judges with its finesse and “exceptional” price-quality ratio.
“Love the purity on this one; great acidity and a mineral touch,” the judges said.
“There are intriguing herbal-spicy tones, white chocolate and lots of fresh citrus zest and juice. Immaculate and stylish and very good for the price.”
Daniel Lambert Wines
RRP £47 ABV 12.5%
Champagne Germar Breton Fût de Chêne Champagne
Champagne, France NV
This small grower-producer adds to its spoils at this year’s Wine Merchant Top 100 with what the judges called a “deliciously original” Champagne. A blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir sourced from the family’s 7.5ha of vineyards in the Côte des Bars, the clue to what makes this wine different is very much in the name: it is aged, in the producer’s own words, “from harvest to bottle” in oak foudres.
“Straw colour, good bubbles. Twiglets, praline, hot cross buns. Rich initial hit on the palate –that sherry, nutty thing,” the judges said.
“Baked apples stuffed full of brown sugar and sultanas. Complex and delicious. Very good value.”
Vindependents
RRP £47.50 ABV 12.5%
Champagne PIAFF
Rosé Brut
Champagne, France NV
Launched in 2016, Champagne PIAFF may be one of the newest names on the Champagne block, but it is in fact the work of a highly experienced winemaking family: the Mansards have been Champagne producers since 1901.
Head winemaker Maxime Mansard has 24ha of estate-owned vineyards to choose from, which he supplements with grapes purchased from fellow Vallée de la Marne growers. This rosé is a blend of 50% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot Meunier and 20% Chardonnay aged for two to three years on lees.
“This is a very moreish, rosé Champagne that combines bright red fruit with complex savourytoasty tones, and pillow-soft, fine mousse,” the judges said. “Top quality and full of style.”
Loch Lomond Group
RRP £51.50 ABV 12.5%
Taittinger Les Folies de la Marquetterie
Champagne, France NV
In a portfolio filled with stylish Champagnes, Les Folies de la Marquetterie is the wine that may well be closest to the Taittinger family’s heart: it takes its name, and sources some of its fruit, from the grand Taittinger house where the family’s winemaking history started.
A blend of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay, all of it from the first pressing, it features some components that have been aged in large oak casks.
“An immensely enjoyable and very complex, rich but balanced Champagne, with citrus, but also pear, vanilla and toast,” the judges said. “A lovely creaminess. I could have carried on drinking it all day.”
Hatch Mansfield
RRP £83.15 ABV 12%
Champagne Duval-Leroy
Blanc de Blancs Prestige Grand
Cru Champagne
Champagne, France NV
Founded in 1859, and still proudly independent and family-owned, Champagne Duval-Leroy is no stranger to the Top 100. It returns this year with another fine 100% Chardonnay cuvée sourced exclusively from six grand cru sites in the family’s sustainably-farmed 200ha of vineyard holdings in the Côte des Blancs.
Benefiting from 14 years of bottle age, and with 4% of the base wine matured in second-fill oak, this is a wine of “great style and depth”, the judges said.
“It has a floral blossom character on the nose, with a touch of lemon, orange and patisserie on the palate. Fine and enduring bubbles and a precise, long finish.”
Hallgarten & Novum Wines
RRP £71 ABV 12.5%
Domaine Fernand Engel
Crémant d’Alsace
Alsace, France 2020
Alsace has long been a hotbed of green viticulture, with a much higher-than-average share of its vineyards managed organically or biodynamically. Even in this context, however, Domaine Fernand Engel stands out, with its 62ha of vineyards making it the largest organic producer in the region.
Care in the vineyard is matched by craft in the winery, with this blend of 60% Pinot Blanc, 20% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay given plenty of bottle age before release.
“A wine that shows why Alsace is such a good alternative to Champagne at this price point,” the judges said. “Citrus peel, nutty notes and fleshy tree fruit, and a satisfying, long, fresh conclusion.”
Marta Vine
RRP £21.90 ABV 12.5%