White wines

Famille Hugel Gewürztraminer Vendange Tardive Alsace, France 2014

Among many other accomplishments, the Hugel family were famously pioneers of the region’s late-harvest (vendange tardive) wines. As orginators, they have always seen the importance of safeguarding high standards in VT production, and the late Jean “Johnny” Hugel was instrumental in pushing through the “firm but fair” regulations that govern their production in Alsace.

This Gewürztraminer is the typically “gorgeous” result of Hugel’s meticulous approach.

“Soft spice, lychee and pear aromas; a slightly oily texture, with lemon and apple on the palate. Beautifully textured and balanced,” the judges said.

Fells

RRP £27.49 ABV 11%

Joseph Mellot Sancerre La Chatellenie

Sancerre, France 2022

With winemaking roots in the region going back to the 1500s, the Mellot name is all but synonymous with Sancerre, and today the family-run firm remains one of the largest and most influential producers in the Loire.

All the fruit for this classic Loire Sauvignon comes from the 22ha La Chatellenie vineyard, which, according to the family, has “ancient soils from the Cretaceous period. This flint-rich clay imparts the subtle hint of gun-flint.”

“Attractive nose of grapefuit and lime zest,” the judges said. “Flavours of green apple and gooseberry come through on the palate which is driven by crisp acidity and a flinty mineral note that continues on to the finish. ”

Hatch Mansfield

RRP £25 ABV 13.5%

Louis Jadot Domaine Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé Clos des Prouges

Pouilly-Fuissé, Burgundy, France

2020

The second white from the estimable Burgundy grandees Louis Jadot comes from one of the leading domaines in Pouilly-Fuissé, based in the heart of the village of Fuissé.

The Chardonnay grapes come from a 2ha vineyard on limestone soil, where the vines are aged between 17 and 67 years. Fermentation and ageing takes in a mix of new, one- and twoyear-old barrels.

“This shows subtle citrus and tropical fruits and delicious, well-integrated oak. Instantly comes across as refined, well made and serious. Expensive, but all the best things are; this is actually very good value,” the judges said.

Hatch Mansfield

RRP £50.80 ABV 14%

Domaine de Peras La Guerre des Bouchons Blanc

Languedoc, France 2022

As importer Top Selection says, “finding quality entry-level wine is always a challenge” – all the more so in the current inflationary environment. It’s a situation that makes the wines of producers such as Mathieu Merlet of Domaine du Péras in Abeilhan, 15km north of Béziers, all the more valuable.

For this eye-catchingly named brand, Merlet brings his usual winemaking approach, which is to say it’s all about the beautifully preserved varietal character of the Chardonnay and Viognier fruit. “Really good, authentic southern French dry white, with a mix of bright peachy fruit in a clean and accessible style. Really good ripeness and balance, ” the judges said.

Top Selection

RRP £13.49 ABV 13%

Braun Pfalz Riesling Trocken Unikat Pfalz, Germany 2020

Founded in the 1970s, when two (unrelated) Braun families brought their businesses in Ellerstadt and Meckenheim together under one roof, this innovative Pfalz producer continues to impress under the grandchildren of the founders.

This Riesling is part of the family’s top Unikat range, which the company says “stands for uncompromising quality”. In this case that means sourcing fruit from the best plots and giving the juice extended ageing on the lees.

“Excellent combination of weight and zesty brightness, in which the lime zest and lime juice is married to ripe peach and a touch of something herbal,” the judges said. “Would appeal to Riesling fans and sceptics alike.”

Marcato Direct

RRP £24 ABV 13%

Aoton Roditis Attica Attica, Greece 2020

Aoton means “best in class” in ancient Greek, and this family winery, run by winemaker Sotiris Gkinis, has set out to be just that from its base in Spata in the heart of the central plane between Athens and the eastern coast of Attica. Gkinis’s work revolves around the revival of his 10ha family vineyard, where he works exclusively with three local varieties, among them Roditis.

“Beautiful golden colour with a complex nose of peach, pineapple, honey and white flowers,” the judges said.

“The palate is richly textured and shows a wonderful purity of fruit alongside some subtle resinous notes. A superbly individual wine and a must-buy for indies at this price.”

Southern Wine Roads

RRP £22 ABV 13.5%

Donnafugata Ben Ryé Passito di Pantelleria

Sicily, Italy 2021

Described by Liberty as “a modern take on the classic Moscato passito”, and taking its name from the Arabic “son of the wind”, a reference to the gusts that sweep around the island of Pantelleria, Donnafugata’s outstanding sweet wine is made from Zibbibo sourced from shortpruned vineyards planted in traditional style in hollows in the ground.

The vinification sees late-ripening grapes chilled and pressed and added at intervals to the dried grapes.

“A simply magnificent sweet wine with an array of flavours that runs from fresh peach to caramel and honey and a long, long finish – just a joy to drink,” said the judges.

Liberty Wines

RRP £93.99 ABV 14.5%

Vigneti del Vulture

Pipoli Bianco

Acerenza, Basilicata, Italy 2022

Best known for his work at the large Farnese group, Valentino Sciotti assumed control of the small co-operative Vigneti del Vulture in 2008. Thanks to the work of winemaker Danilo Gizzi, helped by consultant winemaker Alberto Antonini, it now produces a range of high-quality wines based on local varieties.

For this blend of Greco and Fiano, the fruit is sourced from low-trained vines at up to 800m altitude on the slopes of Mount Vulture, for a wine that captured the judges’ attention with “jasmine, lime, peaches and honey. Sleek and sophisticated, a lovely balance and a wine to enjoy. A real gateway to the region. More please!”

Liberty Wines

RRP £13.49 ABV 13%

Do customers agree with the professionals?

Norfolk punters get a chance to do some blind tasting

After judging his allocated flights, Sam Howard at HarperWells in Norwich put on a blind tasting for a group of customers in the evening.

“It gave an insight into judging for our customers, so they could see some of the decision processes that we make,” he says. “We kept everything blind bagged. They knew the country, the main style, and the price. It was a walk-around tasting and they just dipped in and out, according to what they wanted to try.

“We explained there were no 70-point wines in the room, because they just don’t really exist anymore, and if there’s a 100-point wine in there, you’re incredibly lucky. I asked them to just bear in mind what a 100-point wine might actually look like. Of course, when we got the scores in, there were still some that were scored in the low 70s, and the really high 90s. But the interesting thing is when we averaged everything out, the score from the room was always within like one or two points of my actual score. I think it just highlighted that good wines will always stand out.

“What’s probably more interesting, from my perspective, is the wines which they wanted to taste and score, and the ones that they didn’t. I think every single person there tasted a Chablis. But there was a Californian Merlot that nobody tried – I don’t know if that’s the Sideways effect.

“Right at the end, when there was just a few of us, we did a ‘reveal’ on certain wines. People were pleasantly surprised in some cases and then sort of shocked in others. The packaging makes a real difference.”