White wines

Idun Renaissance Elgin, South South Africa 2019

A small, boutique winery based in the coolerclimate enclave of Elgin, Idun is the work of a family of French-Danish origins from Mauritius who, according to importer Vindependents, “strive to produce wines that reflect their origin”.

The origins for this Chardonnay are lowyielding vines planted on iron-rich clay and cobble soils at 200m above sea level, a few kilometres from the Atlantic. Made with natural yeast, it is aged for eight months in French oak.

“Very classic in style, with matchstick and toast on the nose. Incredibly rich with good fruit flavours of apple, pear, and a hint of ripe peach. Oaky, toasty, and a touch of acidity. All well integrated. If this was French it would be three times the price. Excellent.”

Vindependents

RRP £24 ABV 13.5%

Swartland Winery Bush Vines Chenin Blanc

Swartland, South Africa 2021

Swartland Winery is one of the most important players in the wild and fashionable eponymous South African region, and it works closely with importer Hallgarten & Novum Wines to produce a range that matches the demands of the UK independent retail customer palate.

Sourced from bush vines aged between 25 and 30 years old, 60% of the wine is fermented in stainless steel and 40% in French barriques, with ageing on the fine lees for six months.

“Just loving the classic Cape Chenin style,” the judges said. “Big, rich flavours of vanilla and tarte tatin and just a touch of tropical fruit, but great cut-and-thrust from the acidity and really good length.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £17.49 ABV 14%

Iona Elgin Highlands Sauvignon Blanc

Elgin, South Africa 2022

Wine number two from Elgin in this year’s Top 100 picked up the Best Value White Trophy last year with its 2021 vintage.

The latest vintage is another masterclass in vibrant, verdant cool Cape Sauvignon Blanc from Iona founder and winemaking driving force Andrew Gunn, with a 4% portion of oakfermented Semillon adding complexity and depth to the Sauvignon, which is aged for five months on the gross lees.

“An outstanding Sauvignon Blanc,” the judges said. “Gently herbal, with blackcurrant and blackcurrant leaf and restrained elderflower. Lovely gently penetrating citrussy acidity, but depth and richness too. Great value.”

Alliance Wine

RRP £15.99 ABV 13.5%

Bodegas Ondarre Valdebaron Rioja Blanco

Rioja, Spain 2021

Since being officially permitted for use in white Rioja by the Consejo in 2007, Tempranillo Blanco has been responsible for a number of the region’s most interesting white wines.

The source for this example is a handful of sites on steep slopes between 520m and 690m above sea level on the northern bank of the Ebro. Fermented in French oak barrels, and aged in a mix of French and American oak for a further four months, this was the “wine of the contest” for one judge.

“Beautifully fresh with a lovely creamy mouth feel balanced with a nice acidity. Citrus, melon, stone fruit with a touch of herbaceousness; beautiful. I can’t believe it’s only £12.99!”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £12.99 ABV 13.5%

Gómez Cruzado Rioja Blanco 2 Año Rioja, Spain 2021

Founded in the spiritual heart of Rioja Alta in Haro in 1886, and owned by the Baños family, Gómez Cruzado has been run with panache by David González for the past 10 years.

For this wine, which takes its name from a traditional term for a white wine released in the second year after vintage, González blends Viura and Tempranillo Blanco grapes from a single, high-altitude plot, with a portion aged on its lees in oak and half aged on lees in concrete.

“Loads going on in this one, with melon and even something floral joined by toasty oaky notes and the rich creaminess offset by apple and citrus acidity,” said the judges.

“I’m thinking white Burgundy class, but at nothing like the price.”

Boutinot

RRP £16.99 ABV 13.5%

Familia Martínez Bujanda Finca Antigua Viura Sobre Lías

La Mancha, Spain 2021

A name that is synonymous with Rioja, where the family have been making wine since the 19th century, Martinéz Bujanda made a bold new step around the turn of the millennium, after acquiring an estate in unfashionable La Mancha.

The family could see the enormous potential of the site, which, at 900m, benefits from unusually high altitude, as well as having limestone soils.

The wines they have since produced have certainly made good on the potential, with this “amazing value” white, made with extensive ageing on lees, impressing with its “delightful blossom character and succulent peach-filled palate. Great concentration and balance; this is a real find.”

Berkmann Wine Cellars

RRP £14 ABV 12.5%

Old Stage Chardonnay

Monterey, California 2019

With some 290ha of vineyards in prime coolclimate sites, the Franscioni family business, now run by the fourth generation, is a significant presence in northern Monterey, selling fruit to many of California’s biggest names.

The family also take advantage of their superb Chardonnay and Pinot Noir holdings to make their own impressive line of wines, among them this Chardonnay, which uses fruit from the family’s Grava vineyard, close to the Gabilan Mountain Range.

“It’s a wine that offers Californian sun but without any gloop or excessive ripeness,” the judges said. “Gorgeous fruit in the stone fruit line, supported by just the right amount of toasty, creamy oak. A real crowd-pleaser without dumbing anything down.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £20.25 ABV 14%

Andrew Murray Vineyards Viognier

Santa Barbara County, California, USA 2021

Andrew Murray’s love affair with Rhône grape varieties is now well into its fourth decade, having begun during a trip to France while he was still a paleontology student in the 1980s.

His Syrahs are among the best in California, but he is also a dab hand at Viognier, which here is sourced from the cool coastal vineyards of Santa Barbara County.

Fermented in a mix of stainless steel and old barrels, and then aged in neutral oak, the wine has “an effortless fleshy apricot richness, and lovely honeysuckle and jasmine characters”, the judges said. “Fills the mouth with gorgeous sunny fruit but leaves it clean and ready for another sip.”

Hallgarten & Novum Wines

RRP £29.99 ABV 13.5%