4 minute read
Red wines
Finca Museum Museum Cigales Reserva Cigales, Spain 2019
Finca Museum may, as its name suggests, double up as a museum, with a collection of sculptures and paintings dating back to the 17th century. But when it comes to its main vocation as a producer of fine wines from Tinta del País (aka Tempranillo) it’s very much of the moment.
Advertisement
Based in the extreme continental climate of Cigales in Castilla y León, its wines are shaped by old-vine depth of flavour and balance, with this Reserva made from bush vines with an average age of more than 70 years.
“Great intensity and a mix of red and black fruit with a squirt of rosehip acidity and intriguing complex note of cola and spice,” the judges said. “Something different to liven up a Spanish range – and great value.”
Liberty Wines
RRP £22.49 ABV 14%
Casa Mariol Samso Criança
Terra Alta, Spain 2019
With a history dating back to the 1940s, Casa Mariol is well known in Catalonia for its topselling premium single-varietal vermouths. But the team are no slouches, either, when it comes to producing quality varietal wines and cavas from their vineyards in the small southern Catalonian region of Terra Alta.
Samsó, aka Cariñena, aka Carignan, is one of the most important grape varieties in the region (and for Casa Mariol), and for this crianza it’s given what the company calls “traditional” oakageing.
“Deep red in colour, this has concentrated baked fruit and spices,” the judges said.
“Lovely concentrated flavours of cassis, candied fruit peel, mineral spice, chewy tannins – and hard to ignore the very appealing price point.”
Top Selection
RRP £14.99 ABV 14%
Félix Callejo Parajes de Callejo
Ribera del Duero, Spain 2020
A family-run winery established in 1989, and now run by the four children of the founding couple (including award-winning winemakers José Félix and Noelia Callejo), Félix Callejo is one of a wave of Ribera del Duero estates looking to express the region’s varied terroirs. In their case it’s the area around the village of Sotillo de la Ribera that’s the focus, with this wine a blend of south-facing plots on a mix of limestone and loamy clay soils at 900m altitude. Aged for 18 months in large oak barrels after a fermentation with natural yeasts, it’s “a beautifully expressive wine with a gorgeous floral-edged nose and so much pure vivid mulberry fruit,” the judges said. “Touches of spice, textured tannins and excellent freshness. Serious but very drinkable.”
Moreno Wines
RRP £29 ABV 14.5%
Bodega Enate Reserva
Somontano, Aragon, Spain 2015
“The art of wine, the wine of art,” is Bodega Enate’s strapline, a reference the Somontano estate’s twin convictions, and which have informed the creation of a modern winery and modern art gallery.
Each of the estate’s wines features a label with a painting by an artist in its collection, although the judges weren’t aware of the work of contemporary Spanish artist José Manuel Broto as they tasted and then gave out their high scores to this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for 18 months in new French oak barriques.
“Brick red, garnet rim. Smart Cabernet fruit ageing gracefully and showing its full potential,” the judges said. “Sweet spice, dried herbs, concentrated red/black fruits, fine balanced tannins. Drinking beautifully now.”
Daniel Lambert Wines
RRP £22 ABV 14.5%
Kayra Öküzgözü Versus Anatolia, Turkey 2019
The first Turkish wine to secure a place in the Wine Merchant Top 100 is the work of a leader of the country’s ongoing vinous renaissance. Working with consultant winemaker Daniel O’Donnell, Kayra has invested heavily in its vineyards and two wineries, and is using a mix of indigenous and international varieties for its range of fine award-winning wines.
Here it’s the native Öküzgözü that is used to express the terroir of Anatolia, which is considered to be one of the original birthplaces of wine production.
Aged for 18 months in a mix of French and American oak, it’s “a gorgeous surprise”, the judges said. “It has something of top Spanish reds in its mix of oak and deep, dark fruit on the lingering palate with herbs and spice. High quality.”
Hallgarten & Novum Wines
RRP £37.25 ABV 13%
Sanford Pinot Noir Sta Rita Hills
Sta Rita Hills, California, USA 2020
The story of Sanford begins in 1971, when Richard Sanford and Michael Benedict planted the celebrated Sanford & Benedict vineyard. After the two went their separate ways in 1980, Sanford planted the adjacent La Rinconada vineyard. In 2007, the Terlato family took over, uniting the two vineyards, and continuing to make some of California’s finest cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
A blend of fruit from Sanford and La Rinconada, the estate Pinot Noir is aged for 11 months in French oak, of which 25% is new.
“Grown-up Pinot with attractive florals and a seam of gentle pepper spice running through the delightful red fruit – strawberries, tinned and fresh, raspberries, cherries,” the judges said. “Lovely bite and crisp acidity. Very harmonious.”
Hallgarten & Novum Wines
RRP £49 ABV 13.5%
Terlato Wines The Federalist Zinfandel, Lodi, California Lodi, California, USA 2019
The distinctive labels of Terlato Wines’ The Federalist series each feature a famous American statesman on the label, the idea being, in the words of UK importer ABS Wine Agencies, that “these are distinctly American craft wines wrought with as much character and bold spirit” as the men on the label.
The USA’s first president, George Washington, is the man looking out from this prime cut of Zinfandel from California’s best and most historic site for the variety, Lodi.
“A big ol’ wine”, the judges said, “but a very good one indeed. Bright red fruits over candied blackberry and damson, sweet spices. Lovely opulent but not overdone Zinfandel.”
Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies
RRP £25.25 ABV 15%