2 minute read
Fortified wines
Henriques & Henriques 15 Year Old Verdelho Madeira
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Madeira, Portugal NV
Since its foundation in 1850, Henriques & Henriques has been unusual in Madeira for having always seen the value of owning its own vineyards – a tradition that continues today under master blender Humberto Jardím.
Jardím also benefits from operating from a purpose-built winery (H&H was the first to build one on the island in 1992) and for this 15 Year Old blend he uses the canteiro process in which the wine is heated naturally in barrels “to enhance concentration and consistency”.
“A toffee hit gives way to figs and earthiness, then lifts off with a hit of acidity, followed by rich hazelnuts,” the judges said. “Very complex and worth the money. We would stock this as an excellent example of Madeira.”
Mentzendorff
RRP £29 ABV 19%
Adega Cooperativa de Favaios Moscatel de Favaios 10 Year Old
Cima Corga, Douro, Portugal NV
In a region that is responsible for one of the world’s most famous examples of the combination of spirit and wine, it’s easy to overlook the fact the Douro has other strings than Port to its fortified bow.
This “totally brilliant” sweet Muscat is a case in point. Made only from the best Moscatel grapes in the best vintages, it is fermented for three days with plenty of skin contact, before the addition of the spirit to stop the fermentation, followed by a further five to six days of maceration, and then long ageing in barrel.
“Wow!” said our judges. “Candied peel, aromatic fruits and caramel leading to toasted hazelnuts and a super-tasty tangy candied peel and sultanas on the long finish.”
Marta Vine
RRP £26.80
ABV 17%
Valdespino VOS & VORS Collection Oloroso Solera 1842 VOS Sherry
Jerez, Spain NV
The second wine from Valdespino’s collection of wines with extended average ageing of 20 years (VOS) and 30 years (VORS) in this year’s Top 100 is a “hedonistic” Oloroso.
Aged 100% oxidatively with an 8%-10% dose of Pedro Ximenez added at the halfway point of its 20-year ageing journey, before the blend is returned to complete the process in solera, the 1842 finishes up with 50g-60g of residual sugar in the finished bottle.
“Candied orange peel, honey, sweet spice, clove. Complex and intense,” the judges said. “Lovely, sticky-toffee pudding flavours, without being cloyingly sweet. World class!”
Liberty Wines
RRP £46.99 ABV 21%
Equipo Navazos I Think Manzanillia En Rama Sherry
Jerez, Spain NV
One of the wine world’s most intriguing endeavours, Equipo Navazos is the project of a group of Sherry-loving professionals who wanted to rescue the reputation of the category by seeking out neglected soleras and casks and bottling them in limited runs.
For this Manzanilla, the team worked with Eduardo Ojeda at leading Manzanilla bodega La Guita, a process which involved selecting 60 casks from a total of 12,000, with the wine bottled with “barely any” filtration to maximise its freshness, full flavour and texture.
“Extraordinary hit of flor and salt and wonderfully tangy fruit, all leading to a crisp, dry finish that is just so drinkable,” the judges said. “Great with or without food. Mouthwatering.”
Alliance Wine
RRP £13.99
ABV 15%