TRIED & TESTED
Busi-Jacobsohn Cuvée Brut 2018
Crusoe Treasure Sea Soul No 4
Read the back-story of the Swedish-Italian family
All wines need a story and if that story involves 15
industry as parochial. This is a classy, accomplished
What exactly does immersion in 20m of Cantabrian
months of ageing in the ocean, consumers are likely
behind this fabulous Sussex fizz, only in its second
to sit up. There are barnacles to confirm the claims.
vintage, and you’ll never think of the English wine
sea contribute to this Syrah from the foothills of the
sparkler, with Chardonnay in the driving seat. Pastry,
Pyrenees? It’s hard to be certain, but there’s a cool (as
hazelnuts, gooseberries, apples, citrus ... all these
opposed to hot) and silky character that seems nautical.
elements and plenty more are present and correct. RRP: £38
RRP: £65
ABV: 12%
ABV: 14%
Flora Fine Wines (020 7286 2398)
Busi-Jacobsohn (07590 181718) busijacobsohn.com
florafinewines.co.uk
Villa Mottura Primitivo del Salento 2020
Maurizio Garibaldi Sauvignon Blanc 2018
Put your fancy food matches to one side for a moment:
Maurizio’s Italian emigré grandfather had been
it’s a wine that puts a hand on your shoulder and lets
Continuing the family legacy after experience at Villa
some wines are just made for Saturday nights, and this is certainly one of them. Simple, fruity and dark edged, you know that it’ll take things from here. That’s what four generations of winemaking expertise gets you. RRP: £13
ABV: 13%
happily making wine in Colchagua for decades before
his land was confiscated in 1973 by Pinochet’s goons. Maria and Veuve Clicquot, Maurizio has crafted a loveable, leesy SB from his Casablanca base. RRP: £17.99
ABV: 12.5%
Propeller (01524 737100)
Vindependents (020 3488 4548) vindependents.co.uk
propeller.wine
Tapanappa Whalebone Merlot Cabernet Franc 2017
Domaine la Provenquiere Grenache Gris ‘Pur’ 2020
Look, nobody is actually saying that the presence
This estate near Bèziers is keen on biodiversity and
... but maybe it doesn’t hurt. It’s more likely, of course,
purity is clearly the aim here and that target is hit,
of a 35 million-year-old whalebone in Tapanappa’s
Wrattonbully vineyard makes the wines taste better
that Brian Croser is a genius. A beautifully cushioned blend, with hints of violets, roses and blood. RRP: £44
ABV: 14.5%
Mentzendorff (020 7840 3600)
sustainable viticulture. The Grenache Gris is grown
on north-facing slopes to encourage freshness; fruit though there’s also an enjoyable antiques-shop mustiness and toffee-apple sweetness. RRP: £13.49
ABV: 12.5%
Hallgarten & Novum Wines (01582 722538)
mentzendorff.co.uk
hnwines.co.uk
St Laurent No 4 2018
Alta Pavina Pinot Noir Rosado 2020
Canned wines still have a credibility problem in some quarters so Ben Franks’ Canned Wine Company
A rosé with real flavour and personality? Texture,
Glatzer, it’s actually an appropriate variety for this
just a vacuous celeb. The fruit is grown high up near
deserves credit for chancing its arm with an obscure
(for most consumers) Austrian red. Made by Weingut format, with its uncomplicated juicy charms, gentle tannins and suitability for light chilling. A success. RRP: £5.50
ABV: 13%
Canned Wine Company (01344 871800) cannedwine.co
brisk acidity, fruit complexity? What’s going on?
Altitude, for one thing – and a famous name who isn’t
Ribera del Duero with help from Claude Bourguignon, vineyard manager at, er, Romanée-Conti. Superb. RRP: £15.49
ABV: 13%
Moreno Wines (020 7289 9952) morenowines.co.uk
THE WINE MERCHANT september 2021 10