The Wine Merchant issue 111 by The Wine Merchant magazine

THE WINE MERCHANT. An independent magazine for independent retailers

Issue 111, March 2022

Dog of the Month: Peppercorn Selected Grapes, Bridport

Upbeat independents say: our sales continue to boom Survey of more than 200 businesses finds that, two years after Covid’s arrival, confidence is at a four-year high

wo years on from the start of the Covid crisis, independent wine merchants are continuing to

report buoyant sales figures.

Three in 10 indies say their annual sales

are “much higher” than they were a year

ago, with almost four in 10 saying turnover is “a little higher”.

The Wine Merchant’s annual reader

survey, carried out in partnership

with Hatch Mansfield, also found that

confidence about the year ahead has hit a four-year high – despite concerns about the economy, and the impact that Brexit

has had on wine imports (reported in our

pre-pandemic level of 47% of businesses.

appear to have had a lasting impact on

at just over 40%.

February edition).

Some aspects of 2020’s lockdowns

the ways indies operate. Online sales have traditionally accounted for something

like 5% of the sector’s turnover, but this

has increased to 11%, while walk-in trade has declined to just over half of revenue.

Almost three-quarters of indies now have a website that’s geared up for e-commerce. The trend towards selling drinks for

on-premise consumption, which was

derailed by Covid, has not recovered to its

Only about half of revenue comes from walk-in custom

Now the proportion of indies operating the hybrid wine shop/wine bar model stands The average price of a bottle of wine

in the independent trade has soared

from £13.69 to £15.10, way ahead of the off-trade average of £6.35. But average

transaction values have fallen from £56.85 to £52.61 as consumers see less need to bulk buy than they did in 2020.

• Sixteen pages of survey analysis starts on page 24.

NEWS

Inside this month 4 COMINGS AND GOINGS Opening a second shop 50 miles from the first one in Cornwall

17 BRIGHT IDEAS Butlers of Brighton on how easy it is to make your own podcast

40 shenfield wine company A former Unwins branch in Essex is now a destination for cigar and Cognac lovers

n a freezing cold day in early

February, Jamie Tonkin and Steve

Brown from Old Chapel Cellars in

Truro tackled The Fan Dance, a gruelling

24km SAS selection test march staged over Pen Y Fan, the highest mountain in the Brecon Beacons.

Jamie completed the infamous challenge,

wearing the obligatory 20kg backpack, in

four hours. “It was exhausting,”’ he admits. “Towards the end, when you’re getting

near the top on the second ascent, you’re

46 just williams Why France’s smaller wine producers are facing an

literally walking an inch at a time.

“There’s a section called Jacob’s Ladder

and that was just sheet ice and the wind was ripping. After about 10 or 11 miles,

existential struggle

50 spanish white wines The grape varieties that are causing the most excitement

64 english wines Some big-money producers – and a smattering of mavericks

71 make a date Real-life tastings for your diary

72 supplier bulletin

Jamie snubs SAS and returns to wine trade after 24km march

it gets so steep you can’t really see where you’re going. My mate is 20 stone of

muscle, he’s a big lad, plus he had a 20-kilo backpack and he got blown over. That’s how strong the wind was.”

Feeling victorious and completely

knackered, Jamie and his team celebrated

with some good food and wine and a “solid night’s kip”.

Fully recovered, he is now considering

what to take on next. He’s open to

suggestions and says he’s hoping to do something with Stevie Connacher at WoodWinters.

“He does a few of these things and

Tonkin (right) with his fellow adventurers

we have talked about doing one of them

together,” he says. “We’ve just not managed it yet.”

Jamie and Steve raised just over £2,000

for a local charity called Man Down, a support group that focuses on men’s mental health.

According to the organisation, 12 men

take their own lives in the UK every day, and Cornwall has the third largest male suicide rate in the country. For more

information or to make a donation, visit mandown-cornwall.co.uk.

THE WINE MERCHANT MAGAZINE

winemerchantmag.com 01323 871836 Twitter: @WineMerchantMag Editor and Publisher: Graham Holter graham@winemerchantmag.com Assistant Editor: Claire Harries claire@winemerchantmag.com Advertising: Sarah Hunnisett sarah@winemerchantmag.com Accounts: Naomi Young naomi@winemerchantmag.com The Wine Merchant is circulated to the owners of the UK’s 996 specialist independent wine shops. Printed in Sussex by East Print. © Graham Holter Ltd 2022 Registered in England: No 6441762 VAT 943 8771 82

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 2

Sister stores are 50 miles apart Johns Wines of St Ives is set to open a second shop in Fowey, Cornwall. Brothers Sam and Tom Hanson took

ownership in St Ives almost a decade ago, but in fact the business was established

in 1894 by their great-great grandmother, Elizabeth Johns. “We are the oldest family business in St Ives!” says Sam.

After her fisherman husband died at sea,

Johns started a shop in her house. “She had six kids to support, so she opened up her

front room as a greengrocer,” Sam explains.

Johns Wines, “the oldest family business in St Ives”, is opening in Fowey

Over the years the shop has had various

guises but always remained trading and in the family. The brothers took over in 2013 and decided to focus on alcohol.

with us in the shop; they have some lovely

great-great granddad’s fishing boat in the

says.

“We completely gutted it, but it’s quite

cool as we’ve still got the mast from our

cellar, holding up the shop floor,” Sam says. “We specialise in spirits and craft beers.

We’re really into our whiskies.

“I am in the process of having a big

overhaul of our wine list. There’s been a change, in that people around us are

getting more excited about wine and they

are prepared to spend a bit more and treat

themselves. The under-£10 section of wine dropped off a lot with us, and the £10 to

£30 range has jumped massively, which is fantastic as there is much more scope for

me to buy interesting stuff in that bracket.” The two stores are about 50 miles apart.

So how will that work in practice? “Tom and I run everything from our office/

warehouse in St Erth,” says Sam, “and have

artisanal grower Champagnes and so I’m

going to get some of those in this year,” he

With the new premises about “six times”

the size of the St Ives store, the brothers are full of plans. “It will be fun to have

some space to play with for a change,” says Sam. “We could have wine tastings and all sorts going on.”

The first floor, initially earmarked for

a wine bar/café, will most likely house a second branch of their restaurant, Beer & Bird, while the ground floor will be dedicated to wine and spirits.

Getting bigger in Bridge of Allan

a manager who runs the daily operations

The relocation of WoodWinters’ Bridge

In addition to working with suppliers

The shop has moved from number 2 to

of the store – and will do the same with

of Allan store just a few doors away has

including Alliance, North South and Fells,

24 Henderson Street, and the team couldn’t

Fowey.”

increased retail space considerably.

Sam is just about to start working with

be happier with the result.

Sip Champagnes. “They did a great tasting

Commercial director Rodney Doig says:

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 4

“It’s a much bigger location, so we’ll have more room for tastings and have more

stock better presented in a better space.”

Woodwinters co-owns the new premises,

which it now shares with offices and a

wine bar. “It’s been about three years of

work between us and the other owners to change it from a hotel into three separate businesses,” Doig adds.

Bacchus A lovely building, even if it’s wonky Vino Gusto has operated in different ways over the past two years as it has evolved during Covid times. Now, the wine shop that was initially launched in a pub is really hitting its stride with a new premises in Bury St Edmunds. The Gusto Pronto group consists of five

pubs and a brewery, all owned by Rox and David Marjoram.

It was in the pub, The One Bull, that

Jake Bennett-Day opened Vino Gusto back in spring 2020, effectively turning the dormant space into a shop.

“Since being able to trade properly as a

pub again, our wine shop moved online,” explains Bennett-Day.

He was able to run the online business

from the brewery, which is based just outside the town.

Last October he signed the lease for

a premises in Hatter Street, and Vino

Gusto Limited, a partnership between the Marjorams and Bennett-Day, was born.

“It’s a listed building in a conservation

area but it’s bang in the middle of town just off the main high street, says Bennett-Day. “It’s a lovely old building, a bit wonky,

but we’ve been given permission to open up the cellar to the public. We’ll have a shop trading across the cellar and the

ground floor, and the first floor will be a tasting and training facility.

“We’ll be able to host evening tastings

and we’ll be working with Nick Adams MW, who will be hosting WSET there as well.”

The partners were hoping to open before

Christmas, but the unexpected discovery of

French leather maker Planet of the Grapes (no relation) has started creating grape leather from dried grape waste. Most of us would applaud such an eco-friendly idea, but there’s something rather underwhelming about the bags from the mind of New York based designer Meng Du. We present Old Petrol Can and 1970s Girl Guide Money Belt. Fashionistas, form an orderly queue.

asbestos soon put paid to that.

“We’ve had contractors in there for

months,” reports Bennett-Day. “We really have put a lot of time and money into it.

We’re being as sympathetic to the building as we can, and we’re keeping it clean,

simple and modern, with white walls and floors and industrial lighting.”

As well as the first floor tasting room,

there will be an eight-bottle Enomatic unit. “We won’t be open as a wine bar, but the

Enomatics will allow anyone to come in at

any time and buy a card for the machine so they can taste.

“Speaking as someone who not only

loves wine but needs to sell it, to be able to offer wines to taste is the best opportunity to sell,” he says.

Vino Gusto is set to open this month. The

the team have been keeping busy with the online aspect of the business as well as climbing the podcast charts.

“Essentially it’s us sitting down with a

glass of wine at the end of each week,” he

adds. “It’s just Rox and me, as Dave refuses to take part, having a rambly chat about shop comings and goings.

“It’s not necessarily wine focused, but

for us it’s a nice, easy and fun way to keep

people up to speed and engaged with what we’re doing. While we haven’t been on New WoodWinters store was three years in the making

Pulp fashion

the high street, being able to have content

that’s regular and fun has worked wonders for us.”

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 5

Beware of the chairs

Whenever there’s a planning proposal for a new wine shop or bar, it’s pretty commonplace for objections to include dire warnings about antisocial behaviour. That was certainly the case in Chilham, Kent, where the council has just kicked out an application for a wine venue which was to be called The Tudor Peacock. The problem wasn’t just perceived to be louts going berserk on the Hush Heath and Domaine Evremond wines that the owners were hoping to make a speciality. What was going to make life in the village “unbearable”, it was claimed, were outside chairs, and the “distressing strain” these would have on residents’ mental wellbeing. One fearful local spluttered: “All chairs, moved across a stone surface, will produce a high-pitched screech, which will be difficult to subdue. “This screeching cannot be regulated,” he continued, “and will provided a constant and distressing strain on the mental health of any neighbouring resident.”

Worth busting the budget for Beeswing is set to open as a wine bar and shop in Manchester’s vibrant Kampus site next month. A collaboration between Anna Tutton,

previously of Vin-Yard at Hatch, and chef

Joe Maddock, Beeswing promises to be a welcome addition to an area which has been described as “an intimate garden

neighbourhood with secret streets, gardens and terraces”.

“I just can’t wait to actually get open and

be ourselves, rather than people in building clothes,” says Tutton. “It’s quite stressful

Kampus – “an intimate garden neighbourhood” in Manchester

dealing with all the building work, the electricians and plumbers.”

Since Tutton was forced to move from

her previous premises (“I got kicked

this time we’re going bigger and better.

and working with Maddock on this new

mine and she’s been able to prioritise the

out of Hatch so they could take over the wine bar”), she has been trading online

venture. She says that with the rising costs of building materials and the unexpected

outlay of £10,000 for the cooker extractor, their joint investment of £130,000 is almost depleted.

“Putting a kitchen in definitely makes

things more complicated,” she says. “It’s a bigger premises than I had last time, and

we’ve got an outdoor area to kit out as well. “Last time the concept was simpler, and

We’ve had to compromise on a few things but luckily the designer is a friend of

things we really can’t skimp on, such as the lighting, whereas a polished concrete floor is no longer an option.

“We want to look like we’ve made an

effort. We’ve gone for quite a bold look

with aubergine colours, and metal – lots

of textures and some rugs on the floor to break up and soften the industrial feel.”

With budget being an issue, the pair are

considering turning to crowd-funding to

allow them to complete the project. Tutton believes that their location and type of business will appeal to many potential backers.

“We are trying to bring that

neighbourhood feel to the city, and have a friendly local, community vibe. So I hope it’s what people will want to invest in.

“Also we are right next door to the Gay

Village, which is a big community in itself. Anna Tutton and Joe Maddock

They are lacking a wine bar so I think it

will be really good for those guys. Between them, our friends, the Kampus community

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 6

and people who generally want to support independents, I hope to attract some final investment.”

Maddock will show off his skills with

seasonal plates to accompany the wines, which will all be available by the glass.

“That’s my point of difference,” Tutton

explains. “I get annoyed when you go to

a bar and only a few wines are available

to have by the glass. Sometimes you only want one or two glasses and you might

want to drink something different to your friends.

“I’ve got a Coravin and I’m looking at Le

Verre de Vin, but that’s more money I have to find. I want to go off-piste with some of the wines as there is so much good stuff

out there. I’ve always loved Liberty and I’ll

have a good chance to show off their wines, and Hallgarten have some really amazing things.”

There will be space for 48 covers inside,

and there’s a terrace area too – a suntrap overlooking the water – and the Kampus

gardens. Tutton says: “For me, it feels like

a grown-up area – a bit of peace and quiet in the city.”

Bush (pictured bottom right) was “looking for colours and ideas that were different”

CALLING ALL INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS! Shine a spotlight on your business with the IWC UK Merchant Awards 2022

Enter today and let us know why your business deserves to be recognised! Entry deadline: 8th April 2022 Find out more uk.iwcmerchantawards.com

With thanks to our sponsors

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 7

A LLE N GE

Broadway looks for franchisees

“Taylor Made Franchising offers its

expertise in how to start a franchise and

recruit franchisees – that is what they are

bringing to the party, and we have the wine

Broadway Wine Company has its sights

knowledge and the business model,” says

firmly set on growth and has partnered

Brown.

with Taylor Made Franchising to help achieve its goals. “If you want to grow your business

quickly then franchising is one of the best

The retail business in Worcestershire

options,” says Doug Brown, co-director of

necessary to run the same business we

Worcestershire and established in 2009

one of the franchisees wants to open a

Broadway Wine.

“Our shop [based in Broadway,

by James Kemp] is a very small part of our business,” continues Brown.

“Our wholesale arm is the part that

has shown rapid growth over the years

and it is that part of the business we are franchising. Currently our brand is very

localised, but there’s no reason why it can’t be operating in Leeds, Newcastle, Kent and Cornwall, for example.

“Franchisees will run their own business

under The Broadway Wine Company

banner. They’ll have a branded van and uniform and access to our wine range.

“Basically they will have all the tools

have in the Cotswolds in whatever location they happen to be based. If, at some stage, shop within their territory then we’ll help them with that as well, but it’s not the mainstay of the business.”

Brown says full training will be provided,

so franchisees don’t need to have previous experience in the wine trade. “Above all they need to be a salesperson,” he says.

“It’s a people business and a sales-driven business model.”

Kemp and Brown had been considering

this option for some time, but hadn’t

found the right partner until they were

introduced to Darren Taylor through the Franchise Association.

Brown has identified a gap in the market,

which he believes gives this uncharted

territory considerable legs. “Smaller local convenience stores have never really

offered or focused on a premium wine range,” he says.

“We’ve done some work with small,

regional franchises of Spar, Londis and the Co-op and put a premium range in those stores, and that seems to be where our growth is coming from.”

Success, explains Brown, will be

measured in the number of franchisees and turnover. These figures have been agreed

upfront with Taylor Made Franchising. “If in two years’ time they don’t achieve the agreed set targets, then you can choose

to simply part ways,” he says. “Hopefully

that won’t be the case as the whole idea is to quickly build our business into a larger business.”

Plans for Cheshire wine bar and shop Macclesfield could soon have a new wine shop and bar if councillors approve plans to transform a vape outlet in the Cheshire town. Emily Wilson, of Stockport, has

submitted plans to open the business in Church Street.

The application reads: “The shop will sell

speciality and fine wines from around the world.

“The business is to include a small wine

bar where customers can enjoy good wine

in an intimate and comfortable space while enjoying some cheese and charcuterie

James Kemp, Darren Taylor and Doug Brown

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 8

platters.”

Partners in Wine hatch mansfield & Esporão

Esporão, one of the most visionary and well respected winemakers in Portugal, with wines from Alentejo, the Douro and Vinho Verde, has joined the Hatch Mansfield family. It’s a very good deal for both parties The Roquette family, including “Esporão’s founder José and his son João, are visionary in their approach to winemaking and marketing. These are exceptional wines, made in a really modern style.

RANGE HIGHLIGHTS

”

vision is unique, and we believe that, together, we will make the most of the current momentum for Portuguese and organic wines in the UK.

”

Ben Knollys, managing director, Hatch Mansfield

We first started taking an indepth look at Portugal three years ago and Esporão very quickly stood out to us as the producer we would most want to work with. When we take on someone new, we like to dedicate a lot of time to getting them bedded into the portfolio, taking our team out to meet the family, vineyard and winemaking teams and to get to know the estates and wines as if they were our own. There is so much to love about Portuguese wines. Modern winemaking approaches are producing incredibly attractive, approachable, food-friendly wines that massively appeal to the engaged consumer; the diversity of regions and grape varieties offer so much to be discovered; the price/ quality ratio is superb. You only have to look at the ever-increasing breadth of Portuguese wines in indies to see that this is a country which is really capturing the imagination.

fit between our companies’ “The family values, quality focus and

João Roquette, chairman, Esporão

Herdade do Esporão Reserva Red 2019 RRP £21.00

Ameal Loureiro 2020 RRP £15.00

Quinta dos Murças Minas 2018 RRP £18.00

Recognition takes time. Portugal has always had unique natural conditions: a great diversity of excellent terroirs, with old vineyards, unique topography and soils, and an enormous variety of native grapes. Since the 90s the Portuguese wine scene has developed skills and resources and is now capable of competing with the best. Time will tell, but I expect these developments to accelerate and Portugal’s reputation as a high-quality niche wine producer to be consolidated. The UK is certainly a crowded market, but also a diverse and open-minded one. There’s an interest in organic wines here, and Esporão is a leading player in this category. We believe that with the expertise and market reach of Hatch Mansfield we will be able to capture key opportunities in the premium and superpremium level that in the past were not accessible to us.

Published in association with Hatch Mansfield Visit hatchmansfield.com or call 01344 871800 for more information

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 9

TRIED & TESTED

Cantine di Ora Amicone Rosso 2014

Tormaresca Calafuria 2020

Grapes from the Venetian hills – you’d guess an

beautifully to a rosé with genuine character, several

Negroamaro from Puglia’s Adriatic coast lends itself

notches up from many of the Provence-alikes on the

increasingly popular location as sea levels rise – are

market. The strawberries-and-cream nose is followed

picked in October and dried in wooden boxes for 120

by a palate that’s far more zesty, suggesting cranberries

days to concentrate the sugars. The result is a deep,

and raspberries, but there are deeper, slightly darker

luxurious wine, with rich dark fruit flavours, a sprinkle

depths and a more herbal, savoury tinge.

of spice and a breezy freshness. RRP: £13.30

RRP: £18

ABV: 14%

ABV: 12%

Berkmann Wine Cellars (020 7609 4711)

Buckingham Schenk (01753 521336) buckingham-schenk.co.uk

berkmann.co.uk

Spioenkop 1900 Pinotage 2019

Vidal-Fleury Cairanne 2019

Hallgarten is busy expanding its South African

The oldest continuously operating wine producer in

of a find. The vines work hard in nutrient-poor soils

It achieves just that in a wine whose scribbled tasting

the Rhône Valley can be trusted to know how to get a

portfolio and this Elgin producer, founded in 2008 by

tune out of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan.

engineer and sommelier Koen Roose, could be a bit

and are packed densely to control yields. Here we find

curls of smoke, ripe berry fruit and coffee notes, sealed with a savoury, lip-smacking finish. RRP: £26.99

ABV: 13%

note begins, as the best of them do, with an excitable “lovely”. Rich plum and cherry fruit entwines with chocolate, and the finish is satisfyingly firm. RRP: £17-£18.50

ABV: 14.5%

Louis Latour Agencies (020 7409 7276)

Hallgarten & Novum Wines (01582 722538 ) hnwines.co.uk

louislatour.co.uk

Banfi Chianti Classico 2019

Beronia Viura 2019

Do we want quirkiness from our Chianti Classico?

With all this excitement about northern Spanish

one of the world’s benchmark red wine styles and

people seem to enjoy Viura when they encounter it;

Do we want mavericks tinkering with a winning

white wines it’s easy (and silly) to overlook what’s

formula? Not especially. Banfi is a proud guardian of

been going on in Rioja for quite a while now. Most

this iteration is fluent and accomplished. There’s a

here it’s demonstrating its ripe pear characteristics

confident subtlety and a precise depth to the fruit,

in an enjoyably buttery, oily wine that also suggests

and a meatier note on the finish. Classic Classico. RRP: £19-£21

autumnal crumbles.

ABV: 13.5%

RRP: £11

Louis Latour Agencies (020 7409 7276)

ABV: 12.5%

Gonzalez Byass UK (01707 274790)

louislatour.co.uk

gonzalezbyassuk.com

Niche Cocktails Brazilian Lime Margarita

Haras de Pirque Hussonet Cabernet Gran Reserva 2018

Few people agree on what exactly constitutes the

Haras de Pirque in Maipo, at the foot of the Andes,

solution is light years away from those underwhelming

knows how to make a winner out of Cabernet

perfect margarita, but perhaps most of us can agree that making the things is a faff. Niche’s readymade

and underpowered supermarket RTDs, with a naturaltasting citrus bite and an earthy tequila undertow. RRP: £3.50-£5

ABV: 10%

Niche Cocktails (020 7720 5350) nichecocktails.co.uk

is famous as a breeding farm for thoroughbred

racehorses. Now owned by Antinori, it certainly

Sauvignon. There’s coolness on the palate here rather than heat; it’s juicy and chocolatey, with a minty lift. RRP: £17.50

ABV: 14%

Berkmann Wine Cellars (020 7609 4711) berkmann.co.uk

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 10

SPONSORED EDITORIAL

A JEWEL OF NAPA JOINS POL ROGER PORTFOLIO Bryant Estate is a specialist in Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends, working biodynamically to produce world-class wines

persistent and finessed.

ol Roger has welcomed

Originally released in 2009, DB4

a “jewel” of Napa to its

has been described as a hidden

portfolio with the addition

gem of Napa Valley. The aromatics

of Bryant Estate.

are of fresh red and blue fruits,

Since owner Don Bryant

rhubarb and menthol. The palate is

purchased the Pritchard Hill

concentrated, refined and elegant,

vineyard almost 30 years ago and

and gives way to a balanced and

replanted a 13-acre parcel with

polished finish. Young, playful, silky

Cabernet Sauvignon, Bryant Estate

and supple, it is infinitely pourable.

has quickly established itself as a

As a long-time admirer of Bryant,

producer of world-class wines.

James Simpson MW, managing

Under the stewardship and

director of Pol Roger Portfolio, says

guidance of David Abreu, Michel

this new relationship strengthens

Rolland and winemaker Kathryn

the company’s position as a Napa

“KK” Carothers, the wines remain

Valley specialist. “We are delighted

true to the vision of Bryant and his

that this, one of the jewels of Napa,

wife Bettina.

is to join the Pol Roger family of

Bettina Bryant is quoted

outstanding producers,” he said.

as saying how the team feel

Bryant Estate now sits alongside

“deeply responsible for the

stewardship of the land”, and

this is reflected by the estate’s

the outstanding stable of familyowned producers represented

organic and biodynamic methods, with

Hill site alone. BETTINA, named for Bettina

by Pol Roger Portfolio, including Napa

harvested, blended and produced entirely

and DB4 is a blend of fruit from all four

Kinsman Eades and TOR, as well as

chickens providing natural pest control

and fertiliser for the vines. The wines are by hand.

The vineyards are located 750 to 1,000

feet above sea level, facing westward on the north side of Pritchard Hill. Rocky, exposed and with enough afternoon

sunshine to bask the vines with heady

warmth, the property requires a steady grower’s hand and expert winemaking.

Yields are kept low, with annual production of the flagship wine ranging between 300 and 1,000 cases.

Of the three wines produced, only one,

the 100% Cabernet Sauvignon Bryant

Family Vineyard, comes from the Pritchard

Bryant, is sourced from Abreu’s plots in Madrona, Thorevilos and Las Posadas locations.

Bryant Family Vineyard Cabernet

Sauvignon was first released in 1992. Made to capture the core of the hillside estate, it

has flavours of vibrant cassis, black cherry

and blackcurrant with savoury infusions of graphite, sage, tapenade and tobacco.

BETTINA is a beautifully layered and

complex blend of four Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot.

Deeply aromatic with notes of blue and

black fruits, violets, camphor and crushed rocks, the profile is exquisitely nuanced,

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 11

counterparts Robert Sinskey Vineyards, Staglin Family Vineyard, Abreu, Gallica, Casanova di Neri, Dal Forno Romano, Domaine Vacheron, Maison Joseph

Drouhin, Domaine Josmeyer, Bodegas Artadi, Grand Tokaj and Glenfarclas Highland Single Malt.

For more information visit www.polroger.co.uk or call 01432 262800 Twitter: @Pol_Roger

Rising Stars

Lily Ferguson-Mahan Wild + Lees, London

‘Flowers make me feel that a space has been shown a bit more love’

iam Plowman understands the value of having a great team of staff and says that having two reliable and talented full-timers has accentuated the positives. “Like most independent wine shops, we had big growth during the pandemic, and mainly that’s through deliveries, and a little bit of wholesale,” he says. “Lily and Brendan have made it possible for me to pursue those things as well as having some time to work on our website to make it a bit more navigable.” Lily has been with the business on a part-time basis for almost three years and became full-time last August. “She’s got a real appetite for learning and has completed her WSET levels 2 and 3,” says Liam. “Lily is a trained chef, so she has an excellent palate. She’s really adept at communicating with our customers and, of course, she can recommend the perfect food pairings. She’s used to running restaurants so she’s pretty unflappable. She’s good at making customers feel comfortable and dealing with all sorts of situations.” Initially a Wild + Lees customer, Lily invited Liam to do tastings with some of her clients and they began to work together. “When Lily mentioned she was looking for a change of direction and asked if there were any part-time opportunities, I just knew she’d be a good fit,” says Liam. Officially known as wine pedlar – “we do keep our job titles quite informal as there’s only the three of us and that’s the title she chose,” Liam explains – Lily is really happy with her career change. “I worked my way up the ranks to becoming a head chef,” she says, “but found the higher up I got within the kitchen, the further away I got from continuing to learn about different aspects of the culinary world. When I took a step back, it became clear that wine was one of the areas I wanted to dive into headfirst. “When Wild & Lees opened in Herne Hill it became a community hub that we didn’t know we needed until it appeared. “One of my favourite things about working here is its position within the community and seeing the customers who come and want to listen to really good music, drink some delicious wine and have some good conversation.”

Liam is also very appreciative of Lily’s flower displays. “They’re fantastic,” he says. “It’s probably not a very wine merchant thing, but she has a real skill and we love having them in the bar area.” Lily says one of the things that drew her to London from her native Chicago was her appreciation of flowers. “Well, my name is Lily,” she says, “and my mother is a landscape designer. The addition of flowers makes me feel that a space has been shown a bit more love.” So what is a favourite wine and food pairing of Lily’s? “I have a lot of love for Gamay,” she says. “I’m a vegetarian, so pairing a Gamay with a veggie tartlet of some kind, or some goat’s cheese … those garlicky Mediterranean flavours go well with a light and fruity red.” And what’s next for the green-fingered wine pedlar? “My dream is to eventually have a space of my own that will combine the love that I have for wine with baking,” she says. “For the last couple of years I’ve been delving into viennoiserie. I’ve found the bakery and wine communities in London to be really friendly and encouraging – very supportive and not competitive in the way that some parts of the culinary world can be.”

Lily wins a bottle of Pol Roger Vintage 2015 If you’d like to nominate a Rising Star, email claire@winemerchantmag.com

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 12

hadn’t warned me he suffered from travel sickness, and navigating the rolling hills

of the Yorkshire Dales on a foggy day had him gripping the “Jesus handle” – that’s

For more information about

couple of times, but we made it to all our

Call 01707 274790

the handle above the window – and

looking a bit green. We had to stop off a

Hamish Bredin

On the Road

HAMISH IS A SALES MANAGER AT GONZALEZ BYASS UK, WHOSE PATCH COVERS THE NORTH OF ENGLAND, SCOTLAND AND NORTHERN IRELAND

done, and I’ll probably stay in the trade forever. I started when I was 18 at Corney

& Barrow in their little shop in East Anglia. I continued to work my holidays there

during university and then slowly started

as different from each other as you’d expect. I have customers who are tiny village shops and some who are large, well-known indies and everything in

between. As our heritage is fortified wine, I think people come to us for our

famous Gonzalez Byass sherries and Quinta do Noval port, which has a

cult following, and then get to know our wider portfolio. In addition to the nine Spanish brands that we

colossal: rather, a nice concise selection.

We are passionate about

season! We host numerous

drink any day of the year

switching over to the much harder job of

nationally, to promote

a lot in the two years there before joining Gonzalez Byass seven years ago.

I love the autonomy. I’ve always worked

well independently and I’m very motivated. Every day is different, there’s no job like it.

events, including many

Tio Pepe En Rama, which

prizes to shops and restaurants.

I’m delighted with our new indie exclusive, Beronia Rioja Tempranillo can all too often be uninspiring and lacking in any depth of flavour, but

its price point and will no doubt

surprise in a good way. It has a great

concentration of classic Rioja flavours

and it’s from one of Europe’s most

sustainable wineries.

I enjoy wine and music in equal measure. For Sherry Week I paired

a sherry a day with a different

album, I suppose I’m a bit nerdy like

that. However, I’ve never seen more

he was quite sleepy, so I put some music

spring. It can be challenging for an indie to

are here to help them plug the gaps in their ranges.

It’s been really sad not to have our producers over for the last couple of

joined us. The technology side of things has

each. I once had a visiting producer who

profits for two years to The Drinks Trust

and did prize draws and donated raffle

cover the whole fortified category, but we

of unfiltered fino that is released in the

a day. Instead, you might have only three meetings with a long drive between

example, we donated all our En Rama

enthusiasm for Depeche Mode than

years but on the flip side, we involved

London where you can see 10 people in

we could support from a distance. For

is an annual limited bottling

Geography matters! In the north, it’s not quite like taking someone out in

like e-commerce. We also looked at how

this really does pack well above

from talking to people who were coming

of months to get used to it and I learned

that we weren’t doing so much before,

world. Our portfolio is not

producers from around the

– it’s not just for the festive

“buy my wine”. It definitely took a couple

used that time to get better at things

Joven 2019. Young Tempranillo

for a select mix of quality

Enotria and it was really eye-opening to go

knocking on people’s doors and saying

We adapted during lockdown and

ourselves, we are the UK agent

sherry, and it is the perfect

in because they wanted to buy wine and

gonzalezbyassuk.com

The independents I work with are just

migrating north with Majestic.

My first job beyond retail was with

the company, visit

appointments without serious incident.

own, produce and distribute It’s always been wine – it’s all I’ve ever

Feature sponsored by Gonzalez Byass UK

them in our virtual tastings. I did loads of

tastings for customers where the producer been marvellous, and having a producer join a tasting makes it really special.

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 14

when I was driving one producer after an evening event. It was late and I could tell

on quietly. I was not expecting to see such energy for that type of music. He was singing, waving his arms and doing whatever dancing you

can do while wearing a

seatbelt. And

he knew all the lyrics. It was

very impressive.

NOT YOU AGAIN!

customers we could do without

32. Kathleen Wimbleditch … curtain hooks are what I was after, I don’t suppose you … oh, bless my soul, it’s a wine shop now, yes, I see … well, there’s been a little hardware place here for donkey’s years and they’ve always been so helpful … let me show you what I mean … these little plastic hooks that go into the eyelets on the sliding doodahs on the curtain track … nothing like that at all, you say … well that does put me in a pickle … the other thing I needed was a tin of Brasso, but not the larger size … right, you haven’t got that either …

Supplier of wine boxes and literature • 12 Bottle carrier box with dividers • 6 Bottle carrier box with dividers • 12 Bottle mailing box with dividers • 6 Bottle mailing box with dividers • 4 Bottle mailing box with dividers • 3 Bottle mailing box with dividers • 1 Bottle mailing box with dividers

01323 728338 • sales@eastprint.co.uk • www.eastprint.co.uk

Congratulations to the five Wine

a wine shop now, yes, I understand … Mr Jarvis often had

Merchant reader survey respondents

extra stock through that door just behind you but I expect you’re busy … I can come back later … right you are, only wines now, yes, I see … now, have you got such a thing as a pair of secateurs, mine are as blunt as a budgie’s whatsit … no? … how much is that broom?

AM ANAand TIaMCoravin, GRwho E courtesy of each win

ourthese partner Hatch Mansfield. Can you unscramble grape varieties? If so, you win a horse with no name. Peter Fawcett, Field & Fawcett, York

Not to worry, I’ve come out without me chequebook again anyway, I’ll © olly / stockadobe.com

whose names were drawn at random

pop back tomorrow … what’s that you say? A wine shop that only sells wines … yes, I get the picture …

1. Anthony Plain Merlot Borges, The Wine Centre, 2. Old Lego Great Horkesley, Essex 3. Atheist Pier Zoran 4. EtonRistanovic, Vermin City Wine Collection, 5. Belly CanvasLondon Daniel Grigg, Museum Wines, Dorset Riaz Syed, Stonewines, London

THE THEWINE WINEMERCHANT MERCHANT october march 2022 2021 16

ight ideas br

30: Create a Podcast Henry Butler and Cassie Gould The Butlers Wine Cellar, Brighton

In a nutshell: There’s always something

work stress, suddenly you have to put your

Ridgeview Estate. We love Tom to bits and

educational, personal or a bit bonkers –

You broadcasted regularly before Covid

one rather ran away with us.”

to say about wine. So why not record your conversational musings – be they general,

game face on and be all chipper.”

and share them in a podcast?

and now you’re making a comeback.

Cassie: “I wanted to do something different

that they all listened to it during lockdown,

Tell us more.

to what other independents were doing

at the time [2019]. Initially the idea was

educational and we thought we’d discuss

wine as merchants, but without obviously

Cassie: “Lots of people have been asking us to do it. We had a rep from Vivino saying and why weren’t we doing more? At the

start it was a case of let’s just see how this

they preferred ones that were half an hour because they can put it on in the car.”

Does it help that as wine merchants neither of you are exactly shy? Henry: “Cassie is probably the most

well but I can present. I didn’t always used

to be able to, but I’ve done so many tastings

Does it take a lot of skill and technical

over the years … it’s practice. You can tell

know-how?

if someone is reading off a script or they

Henry: “We just sit next to Cassie’s phone,

don’t really believe in what they’re saying, but if you have fun and know your subject

press record and have a conversation. We

to sit and take it all apart, I would lose the

five to 10 minutes but people were saying

favourite thing. I can’t do very many things

and learn in an enjoyable way and maybe

We don’t want it to feel like a job. If we had

Cassie: “We were doing some that were

put her in front of people, it’s not her

something that customers could listen to

preparation, which is probably apparent.

chat to a manageable time frame, so that

dramatic person I’ve ever met, but if you

pushing sales. We wanted to produce

do it in one take and there’s not a lot of

if we get together then it’s hard to keep the

Cassie and Henry, not swearing

matter then you’ve got a good chance of it working.”

Have you got a schedule for the year

love for it really.

goes, and we didn’t really expect anyone

ahead?

it distributes to all the different podcast

have seen stats showing all the different

Portuguese promotion so our podcast will

“We use a service called Anchor.fm.

We upload one podcast there and then channels that are available, including Spotify, Apple and Google.

“I want to just put it out there and if

there are a few mistakes, it doesn’t matter.

The intention behind it is always good and

honest and some will be better than others. The only challenge is not swearing and

sometimes, if we come in and we’ve got

to listen to it. But over the last year people

Cassie: “We’ll try and base them around up

countries in the world who are listening –

be Portugal-focused. We’ll fit it in around

have said how much they’ve missed it. We

the numbers are small but there are people listening in America and New Zealand.” Is there an ideal episode length?

Henry: “The one we’ve just recorded

drifted into an easy 25 minutes, likewise for the episode with Tom Surgey from

and coming events. In June we’re doing a our calendar and fill in the gaps with whatever is exciting at the time.”

Henry: “If opportunity and inspiration

strike we can do a few five-minute ones here and there. I don’t want to promise anything, but there’s always things to explain and discuss.”

Henry and Cassie win a WBC gift box containing some premium drinks and a box of chocolates. Tell us about a bright idea that’s worked for you and you too could win a prize. Email claire@winemerchantmag.com

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 17

BITS & BOBS

Favourite Things

An international thief who stole £34,000 worth of booze from a top wine merchant has been jailed for 18 months. Andrei-Gregore Zaboloteanu was part

of a gang that targeted the award-winning shop in a late-night cross-border raid. Along with several other masked

Tariq Mahmood Wine Raks, Aberdeen

Favourite wine on my list

Among the many one has to be GevreyChambertin Clos de la Justice from Vallet Frères, where I have spent many a night in a hotel overlooking the vineyard when visiting the area.

Favourite wine and food match

Mas Janeil Cotes du Roussillon Le Traou De L’Oulle by François Lurton with a good monkfish dish.

Favourite wine trip

Among many trips around the wine regions of the world one has to be Argentina, including the Mendoza region, Patagonia in the south to Salta in the north.

Favourite wine trade person

Magpie

Luvians looter given jail sentence

men, he raided Luvians Bottle Shop in St

Andrews, Fife, before dragging heavy bags

of upmarket wines and spirits to a getaway van.

Police eventually traced the vehicle to

an address in Luton, more than 430 miles away, and found one of the thieves inside

clarity on what’s inside the bottle.

It is based on sweetness guidelines

already in place in the European Union.

Crémant d’Alsace, the region’s traditional method sparkling wine, already adheres to sweetness guide regulations, and still

wines from the appellation will now follow suit.

The Drinks Business, February 23

First Viñedo Singular sparkler

the flat with part of the haul.

Bodegas Valdemar, in the village of

Just how sweet is your Alsace wine?

sparkling wine in the region to be

A new labelling initiative that clearly

wines in Rioja, certified as DO Cava, since

Daily Record, February 18

Oyón in Rioja, has released Finca Alto Cantabria Gran Añada – the first

pinpoints the sweetness of a wine will come into play on bottles from the 2021 Alsace vintage onwards. It is hoped the system will give

consumers and wine professionals greater

produced with the new single-vineyard, or Viñedo Singular, certification. It has been possible to produce sparkling

the creation of Spain’s main sparkling wine entity. But this fact was often unknown

to consumers given that 95% of Cava is produced in the Catalunya region. Decanter, February 24

Paul Boutinot. Not long after I opened my shop in 1983, I went to a Polish deli in West Didsbury where I used to be a customer and asked where he sourced his wines. One of the names he gave me was Boutinot’s, so I knocked on Paul’s door on an industrial estate in Stockport. He was about to do a delivery in his old Citroen DS, but we chatted and our business relationship began.

Favourite wine shop

Hmm. There are a few across Europe, in Italy and France, which are absolutely stunning in their layouts and offerings. I’m terrible at remembering their names though! New sweetness labelling comes into force from the 2021 vintage

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 18

EU agrees that moderation is best

THE BURNING QUESTION

What advice would you offer to a novice wine merchant?

�

Offer an experience, a range that shows your loves and desires. Don't be afraid to offer premium and don’t be embarrassed about what you have to sell your product for. There is a huge range of small importers out there who can help differentiate your range. Don’t be afraid of failure. Try something and if it doesn’t work, don’t dwell on it – move on. And do whatever you can to retain great staff. They make your business.

A recommendation for cigarette-style health warnings on wine labels as part of a new EU cancer prevention strategy has been rejected by the European Parliament, in favour of messages

”

promoting drinking in moderation. “We have managed to get rid of the

Graeme Sutherland H Champagne winner H WineKraft, Edinburgh

senseless recommendation to put health warnings on wine bottles as we do with packets of cigarettes,” said Italian MEPs Paolo de Castro, Herbert Dorfmann,

and Pina Picierno, three of the leading

signatories of the successful amendments. Decanter, February 18

Co-op ramps up its Fairtrade offer

�

While a love of wine is important, you do also need to have a commercial head. Margin is key. You need to make money to survive and no amount of passion will pay the rent at the end of the month. Don’t try to compete with the supermarkets on price – you’ll never win. As independent merchants, we’re there to provide a better quality product backed up with our knowledge, and that costs that little bit more.

”

Joe Whittick Whitmore & White, Chester

The Co-op is changing all of its branded and own-label South African wine to

�

Don’t wake up one day and say, ‘I like wine, so I’m going to open a wine shop’. Passion for wine isn’t enough on its own – you have to have knowledge. You don’t have to know everything, but educate yourself and, at the very least, know your own products. Being commercially minded is also really important, and I think you have to have good patter and be a natural people person.

Fairtrade. The move means the retailer now stocks

57 Fairtrade wines, 45 of which are from South Africa.

The symbol group retailer has also

invested £800,000 through donations and

”

social premium into a start-up winery

Penny Champion Champion Wines, Chislehurst

called Fairroots in a bid to cement its

commitment to the South African wine industry.

Grocery Gazette, February 21

How to live to be 108 years old A woman celebrating her 108th birthday has said a daily glass of red

�

Location, location, location. Really think about who’s around you – complementary businesses, and things like that. Do your market research because even though you think, ‘oh, it would be lovely to have a wine shop here’. Perhaps there’s a good reason why there isn’t one there already. Recruitment and retention is expensive, so choose your team wisely. Also, don’t be afraid to ask advice from other established merchants.

”

Ann Hayes Ann et Vin, Newark on Trent

wine is the secret to her long life. Julia Iverson has been marking the

milestone with a party at Brampton Lodge care home in Warrington, Cheshire.

Champagne Gosset The oldest wine house in Champagne: Äy 1584

BBC News, February 25

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 19

Two Greek grapes you’ll learn Our second Zoom tasting with Greece specialist Southern Wine Roads highlighted the surprising versatility of Roditis

he versatility of two lesser-known

time. People liked the taste so much that,

Greek grape varieties was the

when that mode of transport became

focus of a Zoom tasting with Maria

obsolete, producers started adding pine

Moutsou, founder of specialist importer

resin on purpose.

Markogianni Winery Vorias & Helios

Southern Wine Roads.

“Grapes like Assyrtiko have dominated

(RRP £20) takes its name from the Aesop

the scene,” she said, “but that is only a

fable of the north wind and the sun. In the

small fraction of the total vine planting and wine production in Greece, so there’s a lot more going on.”

The first alternative under the spotlight

was Roditis, the second most cultivated

variety in Greece but more commonly used in blends than in its singular form.

Moutsou chose a trio of single varietals,

kicking off with Sant’Or Winery Roditis (RRP £14-£15) from Achaea in the north west Peloponnese.

“They are committed to natural organic

cultivation, biodynamics and minimal

intervention in winemaking and bottling,” said Moutsou.

“Roditis is a yellow, fatty grape

with thick skins that turn pink

towards the end of ripening and develop floral and summer fruit aromas.

“This showcases that but is also

fresh and has a very crisp acidity. There’s a fresh apricot character with some yellow pear notes.”

Virginia Myers, at StarmoreBoss

in Sheffield, said she was “really enjoying the acidity against the rich texture”.

Aoton Roditis 2020 (RRP £22), from

Attica near Athens, is from a producer that makes only around 20,000 bottles across five labels each year, and hadn’t made a single varietal of this grape since 2015. Aoton night harvests all its grapes,

which helps guarantee fresh acidity and

flavour vibrancy in its wines. “They’re very

Night harvesting at Aoton, in Attica

committed to quality rather than quantity,” said Moutsou.

“It’s got more body, and more alcohol.

You can appreciate the complexity just

from the nose. This winemaker follows the

development of the fruit very well. There is alcohol but there is good maturation of the fruit, flavours and colour.”

She suggested that the varietal character

of Roditis falls somewhere between Traminer and Chardonnay, and that

the Aoton wine was edging into white Burgundy territory.

Anthony Davies, of The Grape Escape

in Cheltenham, was drawn to agree: “It’s

more of a food wine that would go really

well with a lovely chicken and cream sauce

– a lot of the stuff a nice bottle of Burgundy would go with. It’s like a real high quality Viognier; it’s got that texture to it.”

he third single varietal

Roditis tasted was a retsina,

the traditional pine-flavoured

style that’s popular in Greece for its palate-refreshing qualities.

Moutsou explained that the wine’s

wine, Moutsou said, “the cool resin side

counteracts the warm side of the Roditis”. She added: “It can be made in various

ways but here the resin is added during

fermentation so it becomes an integral part of the wine.”

The addition of pine resin contributes to

a darker, amber, almost orange, hue.

“I promote it as a gastronomic wine,”

she added. “It works well at renewing the palate. It’s a wine that doesn’t make you tired, of the wine itself or of the food. It would be ideal with tapas.”

he second focus grape was

Mavrodaphne, best known as the base of port-like fortified wines,

one of which, Castro Mavrodaphne

Patron (RRP £24 for 75cl, £12.50 for 37.5cl) featured in the tasting.

“It has three years of barrel-ageing in

old oak,” explained Moutsou. “I like sweet wines on the table, perhaps with exotic

cuisines and sweet sauces. It’s like a more subtle port; it has a lot of dried plum, but

there is some acidity there. It makes it interesting; it’s not too syrupy.” But it was two dry table wines

that really showed the variety’s versatility. The Sant’Or winery

featured again with its Krãsis 2019

origins date from when wine was

(RRP £20).

which infused into the wine over

and it’s relatively light, in colour and

transported by ship in amphorae sealed with pine resin, some of

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 20

“These are early-picked grapes,”

Moutsou said. “The acidity is high,

to love and Mavrodaphne

in alcohol, at 12% abv.

“The flavour of Mavrodaphne usually

revolves around cherry and it gives hints of tobacco, ink and some herbal elements.

“Here the flavours are more early – more

peach and mulberries than heavy cherry or plummy flavours.

“The acidity is very proud and holds

everything together. It’s the fresh version of Mavrodaphne.”

In contrast, Papargyriou The Black

Daphne 2020 (RRP £30) from Corinthia

has “good acidity but also a lot of ripeness and deep colour”.

Moutsou added: “It’s a different style of

wine. There is a hint of fresh tobacco and

a lot of cherry Mavrodaphne character. It’s a serious red wine for steak or other red meat dishes.

“It has 12 months of barrel-ageing and

that influence is showing. They’ve pushed away from the acidity to get to other

elements – but, still, it is not a flat wine.” Myers at StarmoreBoss commented:

“I really like both the reds and the

huge variance between them – really interesting.”

All the wines tasted are from small

family producers where the same people work in the vineyards and the winery.

“It’s an uninterrupted line of production

that ensures authenticity,” Moutsou said.

“We have a product that is being taken care of by the same people from the root of the vine to the bottle. Ultimately it shows in the wines.”

Published in association with Southern Wine Roads southernwineroads.com 01689 490349 / 07775 714595

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 21

READER SURVEY 2022

(7)

(6)

10 (9) 11 (10) 11 (10) 11 (17) 14 (17) 14 (-) 14 (20)

Hallgarten & Novum

9.5%

Les Caves de Pyrene

9.5%

Marta Vine

7.7%

Astrum Wine Cellars

7.1%

Condor Wines

7.1%

Vindependents

7.1%

Bancroft Wines

5.4%

Daniel Lambert Wines

5.4%

North South Wines

5.4%

Enotria&Coe

4.8%

Berkmann

4.2%

Hayward Bros

4.2%

Raymond Reynolds

4.2%

Optimism hits a four-year high, but indies warn of ‘perfect storm’ 17 (10) 18 (-) 18 (-)

18 (16)

Respondents were allowed up to three choices, all of which wer

2022

Total number of r

2021

Almost a quarter of respondents say they are very optimistic about a achieving a sales increase in the coming year, with just under half saying they are fairly optimistic

“Having seen some really meaningful increases in wholesale, retail and web sales between June and November 2021, we see the same trends likely to continue well into 2022.” Chris Piper, Christopher Piper Wines, Ottery St Mary, Devon

“The last two years have seen a significant increase. There is no sign of this slowing, so it will be growth on growth. We don’t expect that to change, but the only thing that is certain at the moment is uncertainty.” David Perry, Shaftesbury Wines

“I’m cautiously optimistic there won’t be any lockdowns this year. We’re excited at the prospect of trading for a full 12 months.” April Marks, Regency Wines, Exeter

Very optimistic

Fairly optimistic

Neither optimistic or pessimistic/not sure Fairly pessimistic Very pessimistic

24.5%

16.8%

46.1%

49.7%

23.5%

26.5%

12 0

5.9% 0%

5.4% 1.6%

Number of Respondents

How optimistic are you that your sales will increase in the coming 12 months?

Number of Respondents

“While we expected 2021 to be slightly lower than 2020 due to the lesser impact of lockdowns, it wasn’t, and we still enjoyed some growth. On this basis, I think consumers have found there is more value to be found drinking at home. Coupled with the fact that many people entertain more at home, I suspect we will see continued modest levels of growth.” Gregory Andrews, D Vine Cellars, South London

2022 Total number of respondents = 204 2021 Total number of respondents = 185

“These are somewhat unprecedented times for the industry so one can never be sure of sales projections. But one thing is for sure, customers are drinking and demanding far better quality.” Razvan Barbulescu, Corks of Cotham, Bristol

“I think independents have a huge role to play with the opportunity to socialise and create an experience. What better way than with wine events and tastings to educate, entertain and bring back the feel-good factor to us all after all we have been through?” Alan Irvine, The Scottish Gantry, Stirling and Milngavie

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 22

“People are still not eating out like they did, so drinking in more.” North Yorkshire merchant

“The only evident Covid/lockdown silver lining has to be a general appreciation of independent traders and better wines, which should hopefully continue.” Patrick Rohde, Aitken Wines & The Wine Press, Dundee

“Despite the local High Streets having increasing amount of gaps – for example, Cranleigh lost a department store that had been in business for over 130 years – outof-town retail seems to be booming. There isn’t a single empty unit on the farm we are based on.” Rupert Pritchett, Taurus Wines, Surrey

You can still get the wines you want – if you plan ahead, argue some merchants

“We’re fairly optimistic that sales will increase. We still haven’t returned to anywhere near our wholesale targets from pre-Covid so we’re expecting these figures to be better than last year. Further development of our website should see a moderate increase in sales across that channel. I think we need to be more inventive in driving customers through the door, and can’t be complacent.” Jefferson Boss, StarmoreBoss, Sheffield

“I think that the next few months are still going to see a lot of uncertainty. We know that pressures on costs are here already and are not going to go away. What small independent businesses have demonstrated over the last two years is that they are well placed to respond to the challenges and changes that come round the corner, and in many cases have capitalised on them. I see this continuing.” North Yorkshire merchant

“The cost of living, possible wars, and fuel hikes in April are a tad worrying. I reckon people will still drink their way through things, though – if they can afford it.” North east England merchant

“The business will be there, and the customers will be there with money to spend. The challenge will be getting sufficient quantities of the right stock in 2022, especially from French classical regions. Buyers will have their work cut out.” Greg Sherwood MW, Handford Wines, London

“2022 has started extremely quietly, back to 2019 pre-pandemic levels. Our heyday may be over! But it was good while it lasted. I feel now is the time we have to be proactive rather than reactive, as we have been over the past two years, to try and retain as much business as we can.” Charlotte Dean, Wined Up Here, Norbiton, west London

“In terms of quantity of wines, it would be hard to see sales top the last couple of years. But I would hope to see a continued trend towards an increased spend per bottle, resulting in a turnover increase.” North Yorkshire merchant

“As long as our wholesale customers can stay open, there’s growth out there.” West Yorkshire merchant

“I didn’t have high hopes for the year just gone but it turned out to be very good. I feel that things may slow down a bit as prices and living costs increase across the board.” Dorset merchant “After two years of good sales and great loyalty I feel the bubble may burst soon. The uncertainty has kept my customers in the local area and, as international travel becomes easier, it’s possible we won’t have the amazing summer of last year.” Cat Brandwood, Toscanaccio, Winchester “There seems to be the perfect storm upon us of rising costs across the board and increasing inflation and interest rates for the consumer, which will make the coming 12 months a challenging environment in which to grow sales for sure.” Dave Eglington, Wolseley Wine Loft, Stafford “I think this will be a tough year as the impacts of Brexit and Covid will really show themselves. Price rises in the industry, and general cost-ofliving increases, will mean people have less money to spend.” Tom Flint, Bottle & Jug Dept, Worthing “I would love to be able to be more optimistic about this upcoming year. But so many issues have arisen that are going to make it tough that we will just take surviving.” Dafydd Morris, Cheers Wine Merchants, Swansea

“We’ve miraculously survived Covid, but now the triple jeopardy of Brexit, duty changes and the cost of living increase will mean people will have less money in their pockets – meaning potentially lower sales across the board.” Marc Hough, Cork of the North, Manchester

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 23

READER SURVEY 2022

Sales boom continues for indies Howwould wouldyou yousaysay your most recent annual How your most recent annual salessales compare thethe previous 12-month period? comparetotothose thosefrom from previous 12-month period? 57

Sales are a little higher

38.1%

Sales are about the same

13.7%

Sales are a little lower

12.2%

Sales are much lower

5.8%

Sales are a little higher Sales are about the same Sales are a little lower

30.6% 38.1% 13.7% 12.2%

72 26 23

5.8%

Sales are much lower

57 Number of Respondents

30.6%

Sales are much higher

Number of Respondents

Sales are much higher

Almost seven out of 10 merchants say their sales have increased, and the revenue mix is broader than it used to be

ndependents now achieve just half of their revenue from walk-in trade, a figure that has dropped from 62% three years ago.

It’s no big surprise to see local deliveries falling away

in 2021, with lockdown less of a fact of life than it was in 2020. But they still account for 12% of trade, and are now almost as important to indies as wholesale

business (which recovered to 14%, compared to just 9% last time). Despite this uplift, created as the on-trade

gradually opened its doors, wholesaling remains a

Total number of respondents = 189

channel that is in long-term decline for independents.

Total number of respondents = 189

Of course, it’s not just restaurants and bars that

reopened. Drink-in sales for wine merchants showed

some recovery too, claiming 9% of total revenue. It will

be interesting to see if this channel reaches 2019’s highwater mark of 12.5% in next year’s survey.

Online sales, meanwhile, dipped slightly to 11%, from

last year’s lockdown-fuelled record of 13.8%.

How do your revenue streams break down? 80% How do your revenue streams break down? Walk-in trade at the shop(s) Local deliveries

70%80%

Walk-in trade at the shop(s)

Click-and-collect

Local deliveries

Drink-in sales

Click-and-collect

Online sales (ful�illed by courier or similar) Drink-in sales

Wholesale business Online sales (ful�illed

by courier or similar)

Ticket events

Wholesale business

Other

Ticket events Other

60%70% 50%

60%

40%

50%

30%

40%

20%

30%

10% 0%

20% 10% 0%

2019

2020

2021

Total number of respondents = 183 2020

2021

2022

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 Total number of respondents = 183 24

2022

What margins do you mak

What do you make? What margins do margins you make?

How much of your turnover comes from these products? 71.5%

Wine (all styles)

Spirits (including cocktails and speciality drinks) Beer

10.5%

8.0%

40%

8.5%

Cider

1.4%

1.2%

1.0%

0.8%

Tea and coffee

0.5%

Other

0.3%

Soft drinks (including non alcoholic drinks)

5.6%

Food items

50%

73.7%

11.7%

30% 20% 10%

4.8% 0.1%

2022 2021

60%

Total number of respondents = 183

Retail Retail aturally, the sales Online Onlinewine dominates Wholesale 50% mix ofWholesale independent wine merchants, Drink-in Drink-in

50% but our survey shows that almost £3 of every £10 that goes through40% the tills is actually spent on other products. 40% In fact the data shows that wine’s 30% slightly dominance has been dented – very 30% – by a stronger showing for spirits, and there has also been a surge in food 20% sales. This 20% perhaps reflects retailers’ renewed enthusiasm for deli items, following the 10% lockdowns of the previous year, and2015 for 2016 10% 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 impulse confectionery which would have 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 been a tougher sell in much of 2020. 179 161 Number of Respondents Number of Respondents Beer’s less-than-stellar performance 179 168 138 162 136138 179 161 185161 168185 162 could be a sign that the craft boom has peaked – or maybe it’s simply a blip.

Retail Onlin Whol Drink

202

What margins do you make? 60%

Retail Online Wholesale characterised Drink-in

What's your average selling p

No, andmargins we have nodo plans What youtomake?

No, but we're thinking about it 60% Retail Online No, but we will de�initely start doing Wholesale so in the coming year Drink-in

1.7%

43.9%

2015

2016

2017

179

161

185

2018

£0

168

35.9%

2021 What's your average selling price, per bottle, on a bottle of still wine?

What's your average transaction value?

£20.00

£60.00

£5.00

2016

2017

179

161

185

2018

2019

£0 2020

168

162

138

Number of Respondents

£11.62 £12.99 £ £10.00£12.25 £10.00

£15.10 £43.17 £44.93 2017 2018 2019

£0

2022

£50.00 £40.00 £30.00 £20.00 £11.62 £12.25 £12.99 £13.71 £13.69 2017

2021

2018

2022

2019

2020

Based on 172 responses

136

2021

108

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 25

£15.10 2022

£10.00 £0

£43.17 £44.93 £43.28 £41.26 2017

2018

2019

2020

Based on 172 responses

£0

2017

2018

Based on 172 resp

3.2%

£10.00

2015

2018 2019 2018 2020 2019 2021 202020222021 76 2017 136 108

£15.00

20%

138

Based on 172 responses Based on 172 responses

13.5%

2022 Total number of respondents = 173

30%

£0

162

3.5%

40%

1.3%

£0£13.69 2019 £11.62 2020£12.252021 2022 £11.62 £12.99 £13.71 £12.99£12.25 £13.71 £13.69 £15.10

Number of Respondents2017

9.8%

50%

10%

Number of Respondents

Yes, but we are de�initely stopping

Number of Respondents

your average price,on perabottle, What's ast year saw a big increase in the bottleWhat's of stillyour wine? in 2020, a year by Covid What's yourWhat's average selling price,selling per bottle, averagy a bottle of still wine? average price of a bottle of still wine in restrictions on a bottle on of still wine? 50% and furlough, many consumers £20.00 indies, from £13.69 to £15.10. Across the were buying more per transaction. (Bear in £60.00 £20.00 £60.00 £20.00 off-trade as a whole, a channel dominated by mind that the 2022 survey data refers to 2021 40% £50.00 £15.00 supermarkets, the figure is £6.35. sales, and 2021 to 2020 sales, and so on.) £50.00 £15.00 InAre normal circumstances, do you sell stay wine for Retail consumption your premises? £15.00 customers spending more as they margins on once again hold steady at £40.00 £40.00 30% 35%, and it’s interesting to note away from restaurants, or does this simply just under £10.00 represent pricetoinflation? that online margins are edging closer to that 42.3%£10.0070 Yes, and we expect continue No doubt both 40.5% 70 £30.00 £30.00 £10.00 these trends have had an impact. figure, at just over 33%. Wholesale margins 20% £5.00 £20.00 £20.00 Transaction valuesabout havestopping dipped markedly, are 0.6%static at around 21%, while drink-in3.9% 1 1 Yes, but we are thinking £5.00 but this is probably no surprise given that margins fall for the second year, to 56%. £5.00

£56.85

£52.61

2021

2022

Based on

READER SURVEY 2022

Which of the following countries or regions do you ﬁnd most interesting at the moment? POSITION

WhichPortugal of the following countries or regions do you ﬁnd most interesting at the moment? 1

3 1 4 2 5 3 6 4 7 5 8 6 8 7 10 8 10 8 12 10 12 10 13 12 13 12 15 13 15 13 17 15 17 15 19 17 19 17 19 19

South Africa Italy Portugal Spain South Africa England/Wales Italy Greece Spain Argentina England/Wales Austria Greece France (Languedoc-Roussillon) Argentina California Austria Germany France (Languedoc-Roussillon) Australia California France (most or all regions) Germany Chile Australia France (Loire) France (most or all regions) Hungary Chile New Zealand France (Loire) France (Rhône) Hungary USA (excluding California) New Zealand Lebanon France (Rhône) Romania USA (excluding California) 0% Lebanon Romania

56.3%

44.7% 43.8% 40.4% 44.7% 36.5% 43.8% 33.7% 40.4% 36.5% 33.7%

56.3%

26.0% 24.0% 24.0% 26.0% 20.7% 24.0% 20.7% 24.0% 20.2% 20.7% 20.2% 20.7% 16.8% 20.2% 16.8% 20.2% 13.5% 16.8% 13.5% 16.8% 12.0% 13.5% 12.0% 13.5% 11.5% 12.0% 11.5% 12.0% 10% 20% 30% 40% 11.5% 11.5% % of Respondents

10%

Total number of respondents = 208

of Respondents Number ofNumber Respondents

2 POSITION

50%

Respondents 20% were allowed 30% as many choices 40% as they liked, based on any criteria

50%

% of Respondents

Respondents were allowed as many choices as they liked, based on any criteria

60%

117 93 91 117 84 93 76 91 70 84 54 76 50 70 50 54 43 50 43 50 42 43 42 43 35 42 35 42 28 35 28 35 25 28 25 28 24 25 24 25 24 24

60%

Which of the following countries or regions would you say achieve the biggest sales across your business? POSITION

Which of the following countries or regions would you say achieve the biggest sales across your business? 3 1 4 2 5 3 5 4 7 5 8 5 9 7 9 8 9 9 12 9 12 9 12 12 15 12 12 15

Italy France (most or all regions) Spain Italy Argentina 18.4% France (most or all regions) Chile 13.6% Spain Africa South 13.6% Argentina 12.1% 18.4% New Zealand Chile (Bordeaux) France 8.3%13.6% South Africa Australia 6.3% 13.6% New Zealand France (Burgundy) 6.3%12.1% France (Bordeaux) 8.3% 6.3% Portugal Australia/ Wales 6.3%4.9% England France (Champagne) (Burgundy) 6.3%4.9% France Portugal France (Languedoc Roussillon) 6.3%4.9% 4.9% England / Wales 1.9% California 4.9% France (Champagne) 20% France (Languedoc Roussillon) 0% 4.9% 1.9% California

Total number of respondents = 206 0%

Total number of respondents = 206

68.9%

60.2% 42.2%

68.9% 60.2%

42.2%

40% % of Respondents

60%

20%Respondents were allowed 40% up to three choices60% % of Respondents Respondents were allowed up to three choices

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 26

142 124 87 142 38 124 28 87 28 38 25 28 17 28 13 25 13 17 13 13 10 13 10 13 10 10 4 10 80% 10 4 of Respondents Number ofNumber Respondents

2 POSITION

80%

Enthusiasm for Portugal – but don’t forget about France

y some distance, Portugal is the most exciting wine-producing

country at the moment, with almost

six in every 10 survey respondents listing

it among the nations whose wines they find most interesting.

Yet as our second chart illustrates,

enthusiasm for a country doesn’t

necessarily translate into sales. Portugal

has to settle for joint ninth position when

we analyse which countries or regions are indies’ turnover.

Italy could perhaps be considered the

strongest performer in our 2022 survey, finishing third in the “most interesting”

poll and topping the sales chart. But there are also strong showings from Spain and South Africa.

The elephant in the room is France,

which would finish first in both charts had

we not opted to break it down into its most important constituent regions (as well

as giving respondents the option to vote

for “most or all” of its regions as a single choice).

There is no comparative data from

previous years, because in 2022 the two questions were subtly changed.

Until now, respondents have been asked

to predict which countries or regions

were expected to achieve the biggest sales increases in their business (in 2021, these were South Africa, Italy and Spain, in that order).

And instead of asking which countries

merchants found most interesting, we’ve traditionally asked which countries they specialise in. Last year Italy topped the poll, followed by France and Spain.

Almost all independents say their organic line-up is expanding

Aiming to be cleaner and greener

ine out of 10 indies are expanding their ranges of organic wines, according to our survey – and biodynamic wines are not far behind. Even so-called natural wines – sometimes derided as an uncommercial niche by sceptics – are seeing growth in about half of the independent trade. These developments appear to be driven, at least in part, by consumer demand rather than retailer ideology. Almost six in 10 indies say their customers are asking for products with some sort of environmental credentials.

But merchants deserve some of the credit for this greener sales mix. Almost two thirds of respondents say they are taking steps to reduce their carbon footprint, with many involved in recycling initiatives and attempting to minimise plastics. Questions are bound to arise about the environmental burdens created by wine production – including its impact on biodiversity, its thirst for water, fuel, and use of chemical sprays. But four in 10 respondents admit they can’t be sure how sustainable or otherwise the global wine industry is.

Tell us your thoughts on sustainability and green issues Our selection of organic wines is growing

45%

Our selection of biodynamic wines is growing

37%

Our selection of "natural" wines is growing We are taking steps as a business to reduce our carbon footprint

More of our customers are demanding products with environmental credentials

Many practices in the global wine business are unsustainable Agree strongly Agree to some degree

47%

21%

32%

25%

Neither agree nor disagree/don't know Disagree to some degree

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 27

20%

45% 37%

Disagree strongly

13% * *2%

14% 10% 29% *≠ *2% ≠1%

40%

11%

171

45% 8% * *1%

26%

12% * *3%

42% 8% * *4%

Number of Respondents

making the biggest contribution towards

170 170 171 170 169

Total number of respondents = 171

READER SURVEY 2022

‘I just can’t se Since Covid hit, many independents have fo But for others, trade tastings will remain a vi

All types of tastings have their fans – and detractors

W them.

hat types of trade tastings

are indies keen on? The short answer is pretty much all of

Our survey shows that more than half of

merchants are enthusiastic about single-

supplier tastings in or outside London, and even more so about events that feature a group of like-minded suppliers.

Zoom tastings divide opinion a little

more. While 54% say they are keen on

single-supplier online events, the figure drops to 41% for Zooms that feature a range of different suppliers.

As the comments opposite show, some

indies have simply got out of the habit of attending tastings in person, and aren’t

keen to return to the days when the time and expense of travelling to events were considered part of normal working life.

How would you describe your enthusiasm for the following types of trade tastings?

Single-supplier tastings outside London Generic tasting events (for a particular country or region)

Tastings featuring groups of like-minded suppliers in London

Tastings featuring groups of like-minded suppliers outside London

Zoom tastings featuring individual suppliers Zoom tastings featuring a range of suppliers Very keen Fairly keen

Ambivalent Not particularly keen

22%

16% 14% 10%

173

36%

20% 12% 10%

164

41%

23% 12% 6%

36%

20% 16% 22%

36%

24%

36%

17% 15%

37% 26%

Not at all interested

16% 11% 12% 14% 12% 10% 18%

24%

14% 12% 19%

14%

Number of Respondents

Single-supplier tastings in London

166 170 165 172 170

Total number of respondents = 175

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 What extra services and activities might be on your agenda in 2022, if28circumstances allow?

“I just can’t really see myself travelling to big tastings in the future. We found much more effective ways of choosing our wines well during the pandemic. I think we did a better job of sourcing without the time, cost and inconvenience of travelling to an exhibition centre with tables holding hundreds of wines. The offer would have to be incredibly compelling for me to travel to a tasting now.” Mike Boyne, BinTwo, Padstow “To visit London is a full day out of our work schedule and incurs an expense. If different suppliers have them on different days, then it is impossible to visit them all. “We have found the online model to be very effective “We have seen the M7 tasting and the SITT tastings, which both look interesting, and we would like to see more collaborative tastings, especially outside London. We’ll be going to the Bristol M7 tasting.” Simon Hill, The Artisan Wine & Spirit Co, Salisbury “I’m still a little hesitant to attend tastings in person due to Covid. After all, if I have to self-isolate, the shop has to close. I’d much prefer to work with my suppliers and have sample bottles provided. I know this won’t allow me to explore the range extensively, so we have to be more targeted in which areas we want to focus on and research products before requesting samples.” Mark Stephenson, Grape & Grain, Morpeth

ee myself travelling to big tastings’ und new ways of sourcing their wines, and they won’t be returning to old habits. tal part of the ongoing process of refreshing their wine range

“I’m not keen on London as it’s so far to drive. London doesn’t like diesel and I’m staying off trains. I don’t mind driving to Manchester and staying overnight. But Zoom really works well for me.” Deiniol ap Dafydd, Blas ar Fwyd, Llanrwst, north Wales

“Travelling to London is a pain – always has been. Requesting samples is great. I always try to support tastings in Bristol which for me are much more useful. Saves time and money. Winemaker Zooms are good.” Somerset merchant

“I think that every size and style of tasting has a place and that it’s important for the whole range to be part of the process. Zoom tastings have a place, but we have found they work best when full bottles are sent out.” North Yorkshire merchant

“Zoom tastings have proved to be an extremely efficient way of tasting new wines, particularly as I struggle to find the time to go to London on a regular basis for tastings.” Lucy Driver, South Downs Cellars, Sussex

“I was never that thrilled with Zoom tastings and viewed them as a necessary pain in the neck during Covid, and I would not be sad to see the back of them forever.” Hertfordshire merchant

“We’re a business that changes the wine list on a regular basis, it keeps regular customers and attracts new ones. So all options to help that process are useful.” Riaz Syed, Stonewines, Barnet

“Not all wine is sold in London. And not all business is conducted in London. Organisers of trade tastings need to realise this.” Manchester merchant

“While it’s enjoyable to get away and do the odd supplier tasting when we feel excited enough about the producers and have specific wines we’d like to add to the range, we rarely do this due to the expense and time involved. “Meanwhile Zoom tastings have been really interesting and a great way to try new wines with minimal effort and no expense on our part.” Nichola Roe, Wine Therapy, Cowes

“I’m based close to London but the cost of tickets up there is eye-watering even off-peak. It has worked better to have samples sent to us and assessed by the whole team.” Cat Brandwood, Toscanaccio, Winchester “Travel to London for a few hours tasting was debatable prior to the pandemic. As we have new strains and isolation responsibilities to consider, the possible impact to the business is too much risk.” Andrew Lundy, Vino, Edinburgh

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 29

READER SURVEY 2022

Which suppliers do you most enjoy working with? POSITION

2022 (2021)

(1)

(2)

(3)

(5)

(4)

(10)

(8)

(7)

(6)

10 (9) 11 (10) 11 (10) 11 (17) 14 (17) 14 (-) 14 (20) 17 (10) 18 (-) 18 (-) 18 (16)

VOTES

27.4%

Liberty Wines

22.6%

Hatch Mans�ield

19%

Alliance Wine

14.9%

12%

Thorman Hunt

14.9%

14.2%

Richmond Wine Agencies/Ellis of Richmond

10.1%

Fells

10.1%

Hallgarten & Novum

9.5%

Les Caves de Pyrene

9.5%

Marta Vine

7.7%

Astrum Wine Cellars

7.1%

5.4%

Condor Wines

7.1%

5.4%

Vindependents

7.1%

Bancroft Wines

5.4%

Daniel Lambert Wines

5.4%

North South Wines

5.4%

Enotria&Coe

4.8%

Berkmann

4.2%

Hayward Bros

4.2%

Raymond Reynolds

4.2%

Boutinot

33.1% 23% 14.9%

5.4% 8.8% 10.8% 11.5% 7.4%

4.1% 4.1% 2% 3.4% 5.4% 2% 4% 4.7%

Respondents were allowed up to three choices, all of which were given equal weighting

2022

2021

Total number of respondents = 168

Indies name Boutinot best supplier out of a field of 121

and Condor Wines, two of the smaller

poll ever since the first Wine Merchant

members of what might be

nce again Boutinot has emerged

as the supplier that independents most like working with. The

company has topped the popularity

survey took place in 2013 and secures a comfortable win once again this time.

But its lead was cut just a little thanks to

some strong performances from its nearest rivals. Liberty Wines consolidates its

familiar second-place berth with a similar share of the vote to the 2021 poll, while

Hatch Mansfield and Alliance Wine squeeze the gap with improved performances

which help them claim third and fourth spots respectively.

Congratulations are due to Marta Vine

suppliers in terms of personnel and

resources, but which are now established regarded as the premier league.

There were also impressive

showings from Vindependents and North South Wines, the biggest climbers within the top 20, both up six places

from a year ago. The highest

new entries come from Daniel Lambert, Berkmann and Hayward Bros.

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 30

Our respondents were not prompted

and collectively nominated 121 suppliers. A maximum of three votes was allowed, based on any criteria.

“Some suppliers like Liberty have gone the extra mile. Some have been very poor: low stock levels, reps furloughed, no communication, rubbish delivery service. Others, like Boutinot, upped their game once they had taken stock. Some still have a ludicrous tie to the on-trade and never really grasped the opportunity to work with independents on a stronger footing. What’s needed? Communication. Fast and flexible deliveries. Proactive reps. Stock level information. Giving a shit.” Noel Young, NY Wines, Cambridge “A lot of suppliers need to look at their internal communication. Of course there are a lot of out-of-stocks at the moment, and it’s really obvious which agents have buyers who share information with sales teams about delays and which don’t.” Surrey merchant “As per last year, some suppliers have been noticeable by their absence and some have been good at keeping in touch. It would seem that the good ones remain so, but the others don’t really seem to care about our business until Christmas comes round.” Dorset merchant

atisfaction with suppliers remains high, at 77% – a figure only bettered by last year’s 79%. But almost one in 10 indies say they are unhappy, at least to some degree, with the support they get from suppliers, and some of their concerns are articulated on this page and overleaf. There’s a perception – and it’s shared by four out of 10 independent merchants – that suppliers give priority to their on-trade

accounts, with retail customers playing second fiddle. But there’s also an appreciation that times have been tough for suppliers since the arrival of Covid, and almost eight out of 10 indies say their relationships with reps has been good throughout the pandemic. Four out of 10 indies say they will increase the number of suppliers they will deal with this year, a slight increase on the figure we recorded in our 2021 survey.

What's your reaction to the following statements about suppliers? I will increase the number of suppliers I deal with this year

14%

I'm generally happy with the support I get from suppliers

Throughout the Covid situation, my working relationship with most reps/ account managers has been good Suppliers care more about their on-trade clients than they do independent merchants

56% 11% 9% 0% 29% 32%

171

40% 11% 4

21%

Due to the Covid situation, it's harder to �ind interesting new wines

Agree strongly Agree to some degree

28%

33%

Neither agree nor disagree Disagree to some degree

25%

19% 45%

35%

16% 16% 5 0%

Number of Respondents

“We have a great relationship with the suppliers we currently work with. If there has been a change in attitude from us, it is probably towards cold-call reps. During restrictions, when many of us couldn’t see families, any reps who came without appointments went into a virtual big black book. Everyone has a job to do but, being on the front line from the start, some understanding of the risk we ourselves posed to our families was lacking at times from certain potential suppliers.” Edinburgh merchant

Do suppliers care more about the on-trade than their indie retailers?

171

Option 1

171

14% 9%

Disagree strongly

173

Total number of respondents = 173

“Most your suppliers have been terrificstatements“Suppliers certainly seemed to care What's reaction to the following about suppliers? throughout the troubles; supportive stock problems. 14% The run-up to Christmas, however, was I'm generally happy with the frustrating. Availability of many21% items, support I get from suppliers especially major Champagne brands, Due the Covid situation, it's harder wasto virtually non-existent. 8% to �ind interesting wines There was nonew warning Throughout the Covid situation, my that stock was in working relationship with most reps/ 32% short supply and account managers has been good on two occasions Suppliers care more about their orders were on-trade clients than they 6 accepted then do independentand merchants cancelled. To keep telling the client Agree strongly that stock isdegree on the Agree to some way, and then let them down, makes one look stupid and incompetent.” Nick Underwood, Underwood Wine Warehouse, Stratford-upon-Avon Iand will increase the number of efficient with few suppliers I deal with this year

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 31

more about the on-trade with regards to Champagne this just 28%Christmas171 gone. Our rep at Bollinger was great and really helped56% us out. However, 173 many of the others seemed to be hanging onto the stock for on-trade. 171 29% Frankly, they missed a trick, as retail sales were very strong, and I hope 171 45% they got burnt.” Nottinghamshire merchant Number of Respondents

“Covid has been tough for suppliers, and some of the traditional ways of doing things have gone by the wayside. Some bits won’t be missed, but faceto-face meetings and one-on-one tastings with suppliers are the best way to buy wine – and those have been in short supply.” Rob Hoult, Hoults, Huddersfield

33%

171

“Some suppliers have worked hard to of maintain direct= face-toTotal number respondents 173 face contact, and one made the effort to return time and again with interesting sample wines. Others, I’m afraid, disappeared into their shell.” Euan McNicoll, McNicoll & Cairnie, Broughty Ferry

Option 2

READER SURVEY 2022

Suppliers: stunningly good, but sometim

“Our favourite suppliers are those that are committed to working with independents and have exclusive wines/labels for them. There is nothing more infuriating that having a customer tell us that a product that we have is on promotion in Waitrose, Majestic etc.” Simon Hill, The Artisan Wine & Spirit Co, Salisbury

“We have started to deal with smaller suppliers rather than the big companies. OK, it is more work for us, but we feel this allows us to have a closer relationship. It also means that when things go wrong it is easier to deal with it. Generally, you feel more appreciated by the smaller suppliers. The quality of the wines is just as good, if not better.” Mark Stephenson, Grape & Grain, Morpeth

“In general, there has not been great support. It’s tricky for suppliers, perhaps, with supply and staffing issues. But not many seem interested in the ways we, as their customers, have adapted. We are selling much more wine than previously but, frustratingly, most suppliers remain passive and unaware. If I was in their position I would be constantly looking for new avenues of support, trying to get new wines listed and pushing volumes. With on-trade still struggling, I’m amazed we’re not getting more of their focus.” Michael Boniface, No2 Pound Street, Wendover

“Suppliers need to be more flexible when it comes to agreeing discounts for bulk sales.” Marc Hough, Cork of the North, Manchester

“We have seen very little evidence of priority given by suppliers to either on or offtrade, given our hybrid model. Everyone has been facing struggles recently, and these are due to very external forces, so by and large we have found all our trade partners extremely accommodating and flexible.” Anthony Reynolds, Marchtown, Glasgow “I’m surprised we have had to ask to taste more products, especially as tastings haven’t been on. Our biggest issue is not tasting new wines.” North east England merchant

“Please don’t phone us in December!” Cheshire merchant “I think I’ve been lucky to work with some good suppliers who have always been supportive.” Dave Eglington, Wolseley Wine Loft, Stafford

“Certain suppliers do care more about their on-trade clients, and we all know who they are!” Hampshire merchant

How likely are the following scenarios for your business in the coming 12 months?

I will close one or more branches

** *1%

I will reduce staff numbers

* *1%

I will take on one or more additional members of staff

18%

I will increase the range

22%

I will reduce the range

I will try to sell the business

38%

28%

151

164

143

171

152

167

148

172

150

167

145

*1% 2% *

167

147

11% 7%

169

152

16% 2%

47%

44%

22% 2%

3% *2%

7%6%

Very likely (2021) Fairly likely (2021)

170

*1% *

I will diversify into new areas beyond drinks Very likely (2022) Fairly likely (2022)

7% 8%

* 10% *2%

Total number of respondents = 172

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 32

Number of Respondents

I will open one or more new branches

2022 (2021)

mes infuriatingly bad “Some of our suppliers were fantastic during the whole Covid mess: Liberty, Jeroboams, Mentzendorff, C&D, Hatch, and Ucopia all deserve credit for their attitudes and helpfulness.” Hertfordshire merchant “I’ve found support from suppliers to be a mixed bag over the last few years. A few have been very good, whereas others have been quite absent. Several new suppliers showed promise, especially during the first lockdown, but have since faded away a little now the on-trade is operating again. I clearly do a lot more business with suppliers where I have good relationships with the reps, and will increase that at the expense of the more ‘absent’ ones.” Andrew Kinnersley, The Grape & The Good, Wells “I think some suppliers have got considerably worse in the last 12 months. Some people remain absolutely stunningly good, however.” Phoebe Weller, Valhalla’s Goat, Glasgow

Five readers win a Coravin Once again, survey sponsor Hatch

Mansfield has donated five Coravins to respondents selected at random. This years’s winners are:

• Penny Edwards, Cellar Door Wines,

London

• Alastair Wighton, Alteus Wines,

Crowborough, East Sussex

• Kristian Shephard, Vine & Grain,

Beverley, East Riding of Yorkshire

• Richard Meadows, Great Grog,

Edinburgh

• Maxwell Graham-Wood, Satchells of

How important are these categories to you?

74%

60% British craft beer

Speciality spirits Resurgent after dips in 2020 and 2021. 34% see the category as very important; 40% say it’s fairly important

A spookily identical headline figure to 2021. 24% believe it’s very important and 36% say it’s fairly important

30%

22% Delicatessen items

Imported beer A slip from 33% last time. 8% regard the category as very important, and 22% think it’s fairly important

Up just one percentage point since last year. 12% say it’s a very important category, 10% say fairly important

22%

17%

Cigars and tobacco

Confectionery

A strong showing compared to 18% last time. It’s a very important category for 5% and fairly important for 17%

Another carbon-copy performance from the 2021 survey. Just 3% say it’s very important to their business

13%

15%

Wine accessories

Glassware Although the topline figure remains unchanged, those saying glassware is very important rises from 2% to 6%

Up from 11% last time, but just 1% say the category is very important, with 12% saying it’s fairly important

Total number of respondents = 168

Burnham Market, Suffolk.

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 33

READER SURVEY 2022

72.7%

E-commerce looks here to stay for indies, though sales are lower

20.5%

24.4%

Sell online mainly to people living locally

19.9%

Produce video content to share online

75.6%

Regularly update an Instagram account

34.1%

Regularly update a Twitter account

70.5%

Regularly update a Facebook account

3.4%

Don’t currently have a website

2.3%

Don’t use any form of social media

Total number of respondents = 176

Now, at last, e-commerce is making a much

before now have the ability to

more respectable contribution to overall

sell online.

turnover, and our data shows that plenty

For once, our survey data is a little

ambiguous on the exact figure. In our

question about digital engagement (left), 72.7% say they have an e-commercefriendly website. In the chart below,

covering “extra services and activities”, the number emerges as 68%. We can account for this through the slightly different numbers of respondents to the two

questions, and surmise that the true figure

more indies are about to join the fun.

The percentage of merchants with wine

dispensing machines has slipped from 14% to 12%, according to the survey, though

the proportion offering draught wine has increased from 9% to 10%.

There has also been a slight rise in

the number of indies selling food for

consumption on the premises, up to 28% from 25% last time. This is in line with

is probably somewhere in between, at 70% and may simply be a How would you describe your enthusiasm for the pre-pandemic following typeslevels of trade tastings? or thereabouts, up from 67% in our 2021 Single-supplier tastings in London survey.

As our sales breakdown chart Single-supplier tastings outside London

22%

on page 20%

24 illustrates, online Generic tasting events (for a revenue has dipped particular country or region)

16%

to 11% from 13.8% as consumer buying Tastings featuring groups of

snaps back into more normal patterns.22% like-minded suppliers in London Tastings featuring groups of give indies Yet this should not like-minded suppliers outside London

undue24%

cause for concern. Until Covid came along, Zoom tastings featuring individual suppliers

17%

online sales only ever accounted for around Zoom tastings featuring a

15% rangeof of revenue suppliers in the independent trade: 5%

it was a glaring area of underperformance in

Very keen Fairly keen every Wine

readjustment rather than a sign of things 36% to come.

173

16% 14% 10%

In36% last year’s time, we 20% survey, 12% 10% for the first 164 Number of Respondents

Have a website without e-commerce

ore independents than ever

asked merchants about the online tastings 23% 12% 6%

41%

166

that they run for their customers – using 170 36% 16% 11% 12% Zoom or Facebook Live, for example. We

found that14% 27%12% of 10% respondents were 165 36%

already involved in this kind of activity, 37%

18%

172

14% 12%

but in the 2022 survey the number slips to

26% 24%the 19% 14% 23%, and proportion

170

of indies saying

it’s unlikely to happen or definitely not

Ambivalent Not at all interested Not particularly keen Merchant reader survey. happening

Total number

leaps of from 25% to 45%. respondents = 175

What extra services and activities might be on your agenda in 2022, if circumstances allow? I would like to have a website that allows e-commerce

68% 10% 8% *5%4% *2%

I would like a wine dispensing machine I would like to be able to offer draught wine in some form

12% 10% 10% * 13%

I would like to serve food for consumption on the premises

We already do this De�initely happening Possibly happening

16%

26%

34%

25%

31% *2%

28% * 5 7% 11%

I would like to run some kind of wine education programme I would like to run online tastings for my customers

16%

18% 6% 23% 4%

No decision/opinion either way Unlikely to be happening De�initely not happening

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 34

27% 18% 7%

43% *3% 14% 20%

18%

167 Number of Respondents

Have an e-commerce website

165 167 97

14%

25%

Total number of respondents = 170

In normal circumstances, do you sell wine for consumption on your premises?

Yes, but we are de�initely stopping No, and we have no plans to

No, but we're thinking about it

No, but we will de�initely start doing so in the coming year

“I’ve experimented with the hybrid model but it detracted from the retail side of the business. On-trade business was generally at the expense of possible off-trade and, in my position and location, the space is better used for off-trade. I would consider on-trade again but only in an adjoining or nearby unit to enable a clear distinction. I think it comes down to your local area as to whether the model works.” Andrew Kinnersley, The Grape & The Good, Wells, Somerset

“I am actively looking for a wine bar to run separately from the existing shop.” Bruce Evans, Grape & Grain, Crediton “There will always be customers who only ever use us as a wine bar, and we’re keen to get their business back beyond a temporary summer terrace in 2020 and 2021, where we’ve only had 12 covers instead of around 20. It’s also such a good way to introduce people to more adventurous wines.” Paola Tich, Vindinista, west London

40.5%

0.6%

1.7%

1.3%

43.9%

35.9%

17 6

42.3% 3.9%

9.8%

13.5%

3.5%

3.2%

Number of Respondents

Yes, but we are thinking about stopping

Number of Respondents

Yes, and we expect to continue

2022 Total number of respondents = 173 2021

“We’ve always operated a bar at our premises and it’s a big part of our business. Over the last 18 months we’ve expanded to offer a large outside seating area too. It has been a great space for tastings and other events over the summer months. It has been really good for our business over the pandemic to have outside seating especially during tiered restrictions and when customers would rather not socialise indoors.” Kat Stead, Brigitte Bordeaux, Sherwood “I don’t want to wash any more glasses than I have to at present.” Phoebe Weller, Valhalla’s Goat, Glasgow

“We knocked this on the head during the Unpleasantness, but plan to re-start in the near future but on a slightly reduced level; Friday was really the only evening that worked. We used the space in 2021 for the occasional sit-down tasting and for hosting Zoom tastings.” Duncan Murray, Duncan Murray Wines, Market Harborough

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 35

Hybrid model loses some of its momentum

he trend towards selling drinks for consumption on the premises in wine shops – adopting what is often referred to as “the hybrid model” – has perhaps been given more airtime than any other recent development in the independent trade. Over the years, our survey has tried to quantify just how many indies are actually going this route. Back in 2014, a quarter of all independent merchants had the wherewithal to offer alcohol for on-site consumption. In 2016 and 2017, the number was only marginally higher. Then we started going through the gears. Our 2018 survey hit a figure of 36%, followed by 37% in 2019, 40% in 2020 and 47% in 2021. (Our question stressed that we were talking about “normal circumstances”, making Covid less of a factor than it was in reality.) Now, in 2022, we see the figure shrink back to just under 43%. As always, the data includes the indies who are considering calling time on their on-premise offer. Will hybrids ever account for the majority of indies, as some predict? It’s still possible, but the loss of momentum is remarkable.

READER SURVEY 2022

DoTell youusthink directonbuying of wine will this year? your your thoughts sustainability and change green issues 7.3%

Our biodynamic Yes, weselection will buy of a little more wine directly wines is growing We will continue to direct buy at the same as last year Ourlevels selection of "natural" wines is growing

We will continue to source all our wines WeUK aresuppliers taking steps as a business from to reduce our carbon footprint We will slightly reduce the amount of wine we source directly More of our customers are demanding Weproducts will signi�icantly reduce the credentials with environmental amount of wine we source directly

practices in the global wine business WeMany will stop sourcing wine directly are unsustainable Agree strongly Agree to some degree

45%

45% 8% * *1%

30.3% 47% 13% * *2%

37%

29.7% 21%

32%

11% 2.4%

29% *≠ *2% ≠1%

40% 45%

26%

10%

15%

12% * *3%

170 4 169 2

20%

26.7%

15%

23%

15%

16%

5% 0%

2022

Agree strongly Agree to some degree

2021

2020

indies has returned to around 18%, the

figure we recorded in our 2018 and 2020 16%

per cent expect to buy much more wine

directly, up from 5% last time. And 30%

2019

2018

Total number of respondents = 169

say they will buy a little more wine this

And more indies than ever plan to

Option 2

surveys, up from last year’s 15%.

increase their direct imports. Seven

13% 6%

You might expect that to mean that fewer

But that’s not the case at all. The

13%

15%

12%

10%

49 20% 44

Total number of respondents =13% 165

problems with deep-sea shipments.

proportion of wine imported direct by

2.4% 16% We will slightly reduce the amount of wine we source directly 14% 16% 12% 13% 14% 20% We will signi�icantly reduce the amount of wine we source directly 2.4% 4% 13% 3% 1.2% We will stop sourcing wine directly

Option 1

harder to bring in the wines they want. Number of Respondents

We will continue to source all our wines from UK suppliers 25%

29.7%

on wines shipped from the EU. Almost

three-quarters are experiencing the same

two-thirds saying that Brexit is making it

B I will source some of my wines this year as part of an informal buying group C we I expect to buy jointly independents more than I did7.3% last year Yes, will buy much morewith wineother directly We will continue to direct buy at the same levels as last year

80% of indies are facing long delays

their own direct imports – especially with

I willthink sourceyour some direct of my wines this year as partwill of a formal buying DoA you buying of wine change thisgroup year?

30.3%

n our February issue, we revealed that

merchants are interested in organising

Which of these statements best describes your buying activities?

Yes, we will buy a little more wine directly

The proportion of wines imported by indepe reported in last year’s survey. That figure co

25% 30% 35% Neither agree nor disagree/don't know Disagree strongly Total number Disagree to some degree of respondents = 171 Total number of respondents = 165

30%

Direct imports

171

42% 8% * *4%

37%

50 170 49 170

20% 14% 10% 26.7%

25% 2.4%

1.2% 7%

12 171

Number of Respondents Number of Respondents

Our organic wines growing Yes, weselection will buy of much more wineisdirectly

2017

way, a jump from the 25% we recorded in our 2021 survey.

The proportion of indies who say they

will cut down on direct imports has fallen too, from an already a low base in 2021.

So what’s going on? Are independents

simply masochists?

One Midlands indie explains his position.

“We have changed freight forwarder and already seem to be receiving our goods faster,” he says.

“While the costs of transport have gone

up, in part due to Brexit, it still gives us a

USP, so independent wine merchants are not all selling the same wines.”

Patrick Rohde of Aitken Wines and

James Nicholson

Roy Gillingham

Ben Carfagnini

Patrick Rohde

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 36

The Wine Press in Dundee agrees.

“Sourcing some wine directly provides us

with a bit of a USP, but we also find that we

s bounce back, despite the hassle

endent merchants under their own steam is back to its familiar level of 18%, after the dip ould rise even higher, though many retailers are very happy to let suppliers take the strain

can get considerably better value,” he says.

Warehouse in Stratford-upon-Avon. “It’s

an incentive to increase imports. Andrew

dovetails nicely with his business model.

proud of against cashflow and high stock

out of Europe and avoid the GB mainland

Ben Carfagnini of Friarwood Fine

Wines in London explains that importing

“Being a hybrid retailer and wholesaler, we find ourselves in a good position to offer producers both channels to market, and

so our buying team are always looking to work with producers directly,” he says. Roy Gillingham of Peake Wine

Associates and Fareham Wine Cellar says the businesses are “shipping more wine

from Europe than we did two years ago, so

Brexit itself has not impacted on sales”. But he adds: “We now plan a longer lead time for shipments to arrive.”

PWA has “also now started to import

from Australia direct again after a 14-year

break, but only in small amounts with highend wines.”

Some indies are keen to break into

importing for the first time. Among them is Les Fry of Vesuvio Wines in Darlington. “We would like to start importing and

establish a wholesale business that carries an original range of wines and spirits,”

he says. “The industry is still strong and demanding diversity.”

James Nicholson of JN Wines in

Northern Ireland plans to ramp up his

imports this year. “We have always sourced directly,” he says. “The consumer is savvy

on pricing – and there are not two margins in the retail business. With higher costs

this year, agency businesses are going to get further squeezed.”

“I would like to think we could purchase

more wine direct in 2022,” says Nick Underwood of Underwood Wine

just that age-old balancing act between stocking wines that we are particularly holding – plus, of course, the current uncertainty with shipping.”

ndeed many independents are tiring of the hassle that comes with imports.

One West Country merchant who is

reducing her importing activities says:

“Shipping is taking longer, and cashflow is harder hit with direct import. And I’m not

keen to sit on lots of stock and pay bonded warehouse costs.”

Several indies say Brexit has torpedoed

any ambitions they had to import.

A South Yorkshire merchant says:

“We’re too small to take on the cost and

paperwork involved. We have considered it in the past, but Brexit very definitely means we will not consider it now.”

Another in south Wales adds: “We have

too small a selection to buy direct. It

would be unpractical and very expensive following the new import rules imposed after Brexit.”

A merchant in Sussex says: “We currently

only source wines directly from UK

producers. Brexit is, without a doubt, a

disincentive for us to expand our planned activities to source directly from Europe.” “Single-pallet shipments now cost

double what they used to, which makes the importing of entry-level wines

commercially unsustainable,” adds a Midlands indie.

For Northern Ireland retailers, Brexit is

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 37

Imrie of KWM Wines & Spirits in Kilkeel says: “It’s easier for us to buy directly

altogether, which is all down to Brexit.”

any merchants say importing is simply not on the agenda

because they’re happy with what

they can source purely from specialist importers and agency businesses.

Dean Pritchard of Gwin Llyn Wines

in Pwllheli, north Wales, says: “As a

single-location retail operation we will continue to source our wines from UK-

based suppliers. This allows us to react

to any shortages or supply-chain issues

immediately and to be flexible in the choice of wines we can offer to our customers.” Jefferson Boss of StarmoreBoss in

Sheffield sums up what many respondents report. “I think our business is tricky

enough,” he says. “So we’ll leave it to the people who specialise in finding great

wines and importing them, and we’ll stick to retailing them to the right customers. “Although it would be nice to have a

couple of exclusive lines, there’s more than enough wine out there for everyone.”

Four pledges for the future of

Côtes du Rhône 1. Transparency Wine producers across the region have long recognised the importance of protecting and enhancing their unique environment. Now they are going a step further, with an agreed set of objectives that will ensure that words are matched with tangible actions to create a biodiverse and sustainable industry, now and in the future.

Côtes du Rhône was one of France’s original AOCs, created back in November 1937. Producers earn the right to use the Côtes du Rhône name on their wines by sticking to

some well-defined rules. These cover everything from permitted grape varieties, pruning and

trellising systems and yields to how the wine

is vinified, blended, aged, packaged, stored and labelled.

The region has made it easier for all these things

to be verified by trade customers and consumers

with the introduction of a guarantee stamp. These tear-proof and forge-proof stamps are unique to

each bottle and can be scanned with a smartphone. Transparency can also take other forms. In the

Côtes du Rhône AOC region, there is an increasing number of Corporate Social Responsibility

initiatives which cover environmental, social and economic issues.

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 38

2. protecting biodiversity

3. Respecting terroirs and preserving resources

Côtes du Rhône vineyards are blessed

Environmental issues are high on the agendas of Côtes du Rhône producers, who

with a rich variety of flora and fauna,

are keen to make vine growing a greener business, and to reduce the amount of

and wine producers are determined to

waste that they create.

protect this biodiversity. The region’s Environmental Landscape

Charter goes back to 2014 and has been signed by a large number of public and private bodies. The document sets out best practice for sustainable vineyard

management, such as headlands around plots, flower-covered fallow land, and hedgerows

maintained or planted with oaks, jujube

and almond trees, or other native species.

Another

important step was

taken in 2019 with the

introduction of the Côtes du

Rhône AOC Strategic Environmental Action Plan, created in partnership with a host of

animal protection groups, especially those

One simple but effective strategy is to allow sheep to graze vineyards from

September to March. As well as slowing the growth of grass, this increases insect numbers and so creates a useful source of food for birds.

If birds are eating insects rather than grapes, there’s less risk of vine disease

developing. Around 100 domaines are currently working this way, and the Côtes du Rhône AOC is working to connect vignerons with sheep breeders.

There are now several different environmental certifications in existence and more

than a third of the Côtes du Rhône AOC vineyard area can boast at least one, whether that’s HVE, Terra Vitis, Vignerons Engagés or accreditation from another system. In terms of waste reduction, producers are looking at every stage of their

processes. Recycling packaging and plastic film is an obvious start. In the

winery, water used to rinse equipment contains all kinds of organic material, such as plant debris, sugars and yeast, which can be sent to a settling tank,

with the solids eventually being

deployed as fertiliser.

The Côtes du Rhône AOC is working

on a set of environmental guidelines

which will eventually help producers switch

to organic practices.

concerned with birds and bats.

The Syndicat Général des Côtes du Rhône

has also signed an agreement with the

Agricultural Observatory for Biodiversity and the French Institute of Vine and

Wine. This means that information can be collected and shared, outlining how wine

Côtes du Rhône has launched an advertising campaign, featuring six winegrowers or négociants pictured in their working environment

growers are promoting biodiversity.

4. passing on a legacy The Côtes du Rhône Environmental Landscape Charter aims to protect and preserve the traditions and know-how that make the region’s viticultural landscape so special.

feature produced in partnership with côtes du Rhône for more information visit www.cotesdurhone.com

Growers are encouraged to maintain the low walls and terracing that have long been

a familiar site in the region’s vineyards, as well as the small buildings used for shelter from the elements and for tool storage.

Efforts are also being made to help producers ensure that the wines they are making

continue to respond to the changing demands of consumers, in terms of their flavour profile but also their impact on the environment.

A new generation of producers benefits from time spent in winemaking cultures

in the new world – a course which is encouraged by the Côtes du Rhône AOC. When they return home, grants are available from the government to help people acquire

vineyard holdings. In addition, several Côtes du Rhône cooperatives have introduced schemes aimed at supporting younger producers.

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 39

MERCHANT PROFILE

Matt Ellis, St Neots, January 2022

From left: Penny Hollington, Nish Patel and Maggie Faiers, Shenfield, February 2022

Why Nish is glad he changed his focus After 12 years as an ITV cameraman, Nish Patel was presented with the opportunity to buy a former Unwins branch in Essex. The shop is now a thriving wine merchant, with a reputation for fine Cognac and Cuban cigars. Nigel Huddleston drops by

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 40

SHENFIELD WINE CO

‘I’ve met everyone … Charlton Heston was probably the most famous. Most people don’t know who he is these days’

The ex-Thresher is now Liquorice, and

in time the Unwins became Shenfield

Wine Co, run by Nish Patel and a team comprising Penny Hollington, Maggie Faiers and Neil “Woody” Wood, with

an extra pair of hands in the process of

being recruited at the time of The Wine Merchant’s visit.

“Shenfield is the last stop on Crossrail,”

says Nish. “You can get on a train and be at Liverpool Street in 20 minutes. Soon you’ll be able to get a train to Heathrow.

“It’s a wealthy town, a lot of self-made

people and business owners, and it’s seen as a place for very rich bankers.”

Patel previously worked for 12 years

as an ITV cameraman, mainly on factual

entertainment programmes, but the glitz of shooting at film premieres and TV

costume drama launch parties had become outweighed by the boredom of hanging

around for a day to get a couple of minutes of footage with a star.

he fallout from the collapse of Unwins and Thresher in the

2000s left Shenfield in Essex

in the unusual position of having two

independent specialist wine merchants

just five minutes’ walk from each other. Not bad for a place that Wikipedia considers to be no more than a suburb of Brentwood, which is itself a not-that-big commuter

town sandwiched into the gap where the M25 meets the A12.

“People think it’s glamourous,” says

Nish. “Yes, I’ve met everyone … Charlton Heston was probably the most famous.

Most people don’t know who he is these days. But really it had just become soul destroying.”

A wine shop wasn’t even on Nish’s radar,

until a friend mentioned that the people

who’d initially bought the store from the

Unwins administrators were trying to sell it on.

“I didn’t even drink wine, but I decided it

was a good opportunity. I hadn’t done any

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 41

WSET, but I did a lot of reading and learned a lot from sales reps and going to loads

of trade tastings. It took two years before I started shedding all the rubbish in the range and replaced it.”

He was aided in that process by

the former Unwins manager, “a wine

encyclopedia”, who returned for a spell. “He had a photographic memory;

anything he tasted, he’d remember it. I

learned an enormous amount from him.” Over the intervening years, Shenfield

Wine Co has pushed its USP – to

distinguish it from its friendly hybrid rival up the street – as the go-to local

bottle shop, with Cognac, whisky, cocktail liqueurs, craft beer and Cuban cigars all joining wine in the product mix.

A lean-to at the rear of the shop was

turned into a tasting room, with Banksy

prints and red leather banquettes, in 2021 and now does a low-key drink-in offer three nights a week.

“We’re really friendly,” says Nish.

“Whoever you’re served by will have a

smile on their face. They know the wines

that are on the shelf; they’ve tasted them. I only employ people who are peoplepeople.

“A chunk of custom is people who think

‘if I can’t find it anywhere else, I know

they’ll have it’. It annoys me because, I

think, ‘why don’t you come here first?’” Continues page 42

MERCHANT PROFILE

From page 41

You took over the business in 2006 and then the financial crisis hit in 2007 and 2008. How did that impact you? Not that much. Although we’re in a town full of people who work in the City, the

business grew year-on-year until 2010,

then plateaued in 2011 and 2012. That was when it was less fun. We had to work really hard on how to progress, and education has been the key to it.

I’m very much in favour of formal

training for the people we employ. It’s

only a recent thing but it’s got to be the

way forward. However, I’m self-taught and sometimes you realise you know more

The range wine does not claim to be eclectic. “We just stock wine we really like,” says Nish

than you think. I did The Wine Merchant

producing. When I do a tasting that

food. We’re now selling copious amounts of

with people who are formally trained.

Everyone loves it – but it’s become a

just don’t understand the pricing of French

Top 100, where you taste blind, and I was

surprised how much you can go toe-to-toe

I still don’t drink a lot of wine, but I taste

an awful lot. As a team, we taste everything we sell.

Does anywhere in particular excite you at the moment? I think Italy is going through a golden

age in terms of the quality of wine it’s

includes a Malbec I describe it as the

international megastar of the wine world. bit boring to sell. We now need to push

those people to try other things that are

similar but different: Californian Zinfandel, Australian Cabernet, and then of course

Italy will give you Primitivo, appassimento wines, ripasso wines, Negroamaro –

slightly jammier, lower-tannin wines,

which are easy to drink, with or without

Primitivo.

France takes up the biggest space but I

wine: it’s either “we’ve had a fantastic

harvest, everyone wants it, we’re going to put the price up”; or, the next year, “we’ve

lost all the harvest, there’s very little of it, we’re going to put the price up”.

Some of this stuff is now way out

there [on price]. We stocked the GevreyChambertins and Montrachets last

Christmas but the majority of people who are buying this top-end stuff are buying

the name. I know it’s good … but really?

However, we’ve sold all of it, so maybe I’m wrong.

I’m always looking for value, and, as a

team, we have to truly believe in a wine.

Which suppliers give you most support? Liberty are just a delight to work with.

We’re looked after by a chap called Mark Duce and nothing is ever a problem.

Sometimes I think I’m pushing my luck

but he always surprises me. The quality of The team upped their hours to cope with the lockdown boom

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 42

their products and the depth of their range is immense.

Some of the other big names are

SHENFIELD WINE CO

Mentzendorff, Armit, Louis Latour and

Hatch. Our everyday wines at £10-£12 are

from Walker & Wodehouse and Ehrmanns. Ehrmanns were one of my very first

accounts; they’re nice people to deal with. We use Seckford and ABS for South Africa

‘I bought the freehold just before lockdown. Business tripled; we are going to be free of the loan in maybe five years’

and Australia. Then we have specialist

from that region and it’s got to be value

came in on Saturdays.

see me or ring. You need to have that

£35-£44. It’s fluctuated in the past 18

on a spot and we would be the personal

accounts, like Hispa for Argentina.

All of those are regularly coming to

communication. We closed some other

accounts because we weren’t being looked

after and were never shown new products. What do you aim for in your wine range? We’re not really eclectic. We’re not doing Croatian or Slovenian wine. We don’t

have an organic section; we don’t have a biodynamic section. We just stock wine

we really like. We have all the things you expect and slightly quirkier versions of

that thing. My core principle is we must

be stocking what is typical of that grape

for money. Our average bottle price is

approximately £13. Our average sale is months.

What was lockdown like for you and the team? I bought the freehold just before lockdown; the first payment on the loan was on April 1, 2020. Business tripled; we are going to be free of the loan maybe in five years.

We barely coped. Neil ended up working

four days a week instead of his usual one and Penny ended up working full-time. I

was here every day, and even Woody’s wife, who has a very good job working for a big bank, and who was working from home,

The tasting room was created at the rear of the shop during 2021

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 43

We only let one person in at a time. We

locked the door and asked them to stand

shopper, getting things for them, bagging them and opening the door for them to leave.

On average, we were doing one customer

every three-and-a-half minutes from 11am to 7pm. At one point we had to close in the

middle of the day because the shelves were half-empty. We were sometimes doing

three times what we normally do in a week. Although things [generally] are nearly

normal now, there are still a lot of people in this town working from home and, on Continues page 44

MERCHANT PROFILE

From page 43

average, we’re 50% up on where we were pre-Covid.

Certain things have changed from before

the pandemic. Those people don’t want to

go back into the office full-time, so they’re coming out in the middle of the day to break it up.

Come 7pm, it’s tumbleweed. Normally, in

the past, they’d be off the train having had a couple of pints in the pub in London and

that gave you evening footfall. So, footfall is down, but if you look at the till …

And all this was without having a

“Really we are a shop,” says Nish. “We don’t want tables on the shop floor”

proper website? We just have a landing page, but most

encourage people to buy by the bottle even

people find us through Google. When the

though we make less money on it, because

writing was on the wall that lockdown was

it’s about the experience.

coming, we listed a random bunch of stuff

People love it; it’s like have their own

on the landing page to give people an idea

private cellar. Whatever you pick it’s the

of what we had. The phone just started

shop retail price plus £12 corkage. If

ringing constantly. I was doing deliveries

you’re buying a £10 bottle it’s not going

every day, 20 deliveries a day sometimes.

to be worth it, but you can buy a bottle of

There were all of these supermarket

Amarone at £32 and it’s more attractive.

customers asking what we’d got for £4.

Where are you going to get a bottle of

“Nothing, the cheapest is £7 but it’s good”. There wasn’t a lot of margin in it but we were exposing ourselves to people who

Amarone for £44 in a pub or a restaurant?

Other than wine, what drives business?

weren’t customers of ours. They were

That is the prime purpose. Previously we

Cigars have become very important. They

You built the tasting room at a down

this is now a wine bar three nights a week

more individual cigars than bottles of

meeting us on the doorstep.

time when drinking-in was difficult. Has it had a chance to have an impact? We built it last year because we had the

space, we had the money and it meant we

could finally have our own tasting location.

were using other local venues.

Really we are a shop, and the only reason

is that we’ve got it and we might as well

use it – and it’s separate from the shop. We don’t want tables on the shop floor.

We do wines by the glass and wine by

the bottle, anything from the shop. We

‘We built up, very slowly, a reputation for selling cigars properly and now we have regular customers. It’s just shy of 10% of turnover’ THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 44

generate more than spirits and more

than craft beer. Over Christmas we sold Champagne and the value of sales was higher as well.

We are a Hunters & Frankau habano

“point”, which is their name for a specialist retailer. If customers come here they will be met by knowledgeable staff with a

humidor that’s been kept properly with a

minimum of 45 SKUs of Cuban cigars. A lot

of places have a humidor but it’s not looked after, they don’t have a good range, and there are all sorts of issues.

I’m big on detail and at first I became

SHENFIELD WINE CO

obsessed with the hydrometer, but I

learned very quickly that hydrometers are useless. You’ve got to open the humidor, pick up a cigar, get a feel for it … you’ll know if it’s right or not.

We built up, very slowly, a reputation for

selling cigars properly and we now have

regular customers who come back again and again. It’s now just shy of 10% of turnover. How does the margin compare with wine? It’s a bit below wine. Our margins generally are 35% POR. I’m slowly moving to 38%

[on wine] and anything that over-delivers

is 40%. Cigars from Hunters & Frankau are about 30%.

We’re also doing new world cigars

[anything not Cuban] – mainly Nicaragua, Honduras, the Dominican Republic and

the US. We have traction with those, we’re doing OK, but the majority is Cuban. Any other trends in Shenfield?

We’ve seen a big increase in sales of

Cognac. After gin exploded, everyone said rum would be the next big thing. But it

won’t be, because no one is going to spend

£35-£40 on a bottle of rum and put Coke in it. More people want to drink Cognac.

We have a lot of customers who love

whisky too; we have the best whisky

selection for miles. We’re launching a

whisky bar in the tasting room. Once a month the room will be given over to

serving whisky, everything from everyday

whisky to quite expensive Japanese whisky and Macallan 18.

I’ve got an 18-year-old Yamazaki which

is £850 that we’ll be opening, and I’m

thinking of opening a 21-year-old Hibiki

which is £1,200. It’s a bit of risk because once you’ve opened that bottle you’re in

for the cost of it, right? If you build it, they will come. I dunno, we’ll see. I may be completely wrong.

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 45

JUST WILLIAMS

Are French vignerons an endangered species? Official figures show that France lost 16% of its wine growers in the last decade, and estates have got 19% bigger. David Williams remains an old romantic when it comes to French wine, but perhaps he needs a reality check as life gets tougher for vignerons

Despite the challenges, figures show that “thousands” of young people join the industry every year

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 46

urviving as a small wine producer in France is immensely difficult. And it’s only getting more so.

Certainly, the outlook for many vignerons

indépendants, particularly those outside

the lucky top 10% who work in fashionable appellations, or who are blessed with

inherited historic reputations, is pretty

bleak right now – and has been for some time.

The immense problems caused by Covid,

Trump-era US tariffs and a difficult or, in

Area, UAA) used by the average French

wine producer is up by 14ha since 2010, a jump of 25% to 69ha.

There’s another worrying statistic:

the average French vigneron is ageing.

Although the percentage below 40 has

remained stable, the proportion of those

aged 65 or more is on the rise: up 5% over the past decade and now accounting for 25% of French vignerons.

seriously unfavourable long-term trends.

official census of French winemakers

to make enough money to pay themselves

some cases, non-existent 2021 vintage have, it seems, only exacerbated some

That’s certainly the impression you get

from a quick perusal of the latest, extensive carried out by the French Ministry

of Agriculture, details of which were published earlier this year.

The census, which the ministry compiles

once every 10 years, features some

pretty hair-raising numbers – numbers

that reminded this correspondent of the

escalating decline of the British pub trade. According to the initial findings of the

census, published in French wine trade

magazine Vitisphere, the decade between 2010 and 2020 saw France lose 11,000

wine producers and wine growers, a fall of some 16% from 70,000 to 59,000.

The drop was particularly savage for

small and medium-sized producers,

defined by the Ministry of Agriculture

as growers with a turnover of €25,000 to €100,000 (small) and €100,000 to

€250,000 (medium): more than a fifth

(21%) of producers and growers in this category stopped trading.

That in turn has led to consolidation.

The average size of a single French wine

estate has jumped by 3ha, or 19%, in the

past decade from 16ha to 19ha, while the productive land (or Utilised Agricultural

t’s not hard to understand why so

many smaller and younger French

winemakers have exited the sector.

Multiple studies over the past 10 years

have indicated that a majority are unable even the basic minimum wage.

A 2015 study in the academic journal

Wine Economics and Policy calculated that

58% of French winemakers were unable to meet that basic threshold.

What is hard to understand, perhaps,

given the harsh economic realities of French wine production, is that the

category continues to attract new players: “thousands” each year, according to

the Ministry’s report (although it also

stresses the need for that number to climb by at least 50% if France is to achieve “generational turnover”).

Then again, maybe we shouldn’t be all

that surprised. This is a trade that is well known for romantic folly, a trade which,

no matter which part of the world you are from, always has some variation of what

is on the face of it an altogether fatalistic

philosophy as its motto: “to make a small

fortune in this business you must start with a large one”.

Romance isn’t easy to measure in a

survey or census. But even when set

against a clear statistical reality where

failure, or something very close to it, is the norm, the dream of making a life in wine work still exerts a powerful pull on the

imaginations of many young Frenchmen and women.

Indeed, from the purely selfish viewpoint

of a fully paid up Francophile who judges

the state of a wine sector purely in terms of the wines that are available to buy, French wine has never seemed healthier, or more dynamic and vibrantly alive.

Rare is the week when I don’t come

across a new (to me) producer of interest

from somewhere in France, many of them from wine regions that are – according

to all reasonable and sensible economic

indicators – struggling, but also those who are rejuvenating and adding interest to

areas that are, by all accounts, doing well.

In the past week alone I’ve been thrilled

by my first tastes of some ethereal

Bordeaux Supérieur from Château Mouette Blanc, a producer with a mere 4.5ha of

vines based in Macau in the Gironde; some gloriously supple “glou-glou” reds from

12ha Domaine Cinq Peyres in Gaillac; and

some agile, multi-faceted Champagne from Piollot Père et Fils in the Côte des Bars.

We should be under no illusions about

how difficult life is for these and other

small French wine growers. But at least, unlike for most of the world’s ills, doing

our bit to help is painless. We need only buy as many of their wines as possible.

From a purely selfish Francophile viewpoint, French wine has never seemed healthier, or more dynamic and vibrantly alive THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 47

SIX

OF THE BEST

here’s a popular saying in the Cognac region that “all Cognac is brandy, but

not all brandy is Cognac”. Some of the

other things that brandy is are Armagnac, grappa and Calvados, all of which got

time in the spotlight in a recent virtual

masterclass hosted by specialist spirits supplier Emporia Brands.

“Armagnac doesn’t get enough light

shone on it,” said Emporia sales director Gavin McGowan-Madoo, who hosted the event.

“From a consumer perspective, the bang

for buck is fantastic versus Cognac.

“The region has warm summers, but can

be quite cold in the winter, which makes it

If premium spirits with genuine provenance are your thing, Emporia has a proven track record with the country’s most discerning mixologists and restaurateurs. The company’s roots are actually in the independent wine trade, a sector with which chairman James Rackham and his team are proud to do business. Indies saw a glimpse of what Emporia can offer at a recent Zoom tasting of two Armagnacs, two grappas and two Calvadoses.

great for growing high-acidity white wine grapes.”

Different Armagnac styles were in

evidence with a sampling of Marquis de

Montesquiou Reserva and Lauvia Hors D’Age.

The Reserva is a blend of 5-year-old and

20-year-old eaux-de-vie, mostly from the Bas Armagnac region, which has the best terroir of

the three growing regions (the others are Ténarèze and HautArmagnac) and produces the

most prized Armagnac grapes.

Despite its relatively young age, it’s dark

in colour because of the addition of a small amount of caramel colouring. “It has lots of spice in there,” said McGowan-Madoo, “some dried orange and an aged raisiny flavour. It’s almost like a dark chocolate fruit and nut.

“It would make a very good Old-

fashioned. You could add a dash of

chocolate bitters which would lift it a bit more.”

The eaux-de-vie in the Lauvia

Published in association with Emporia

are between 16 and 43 years old. “It is a bit more of a classic feel,”

Web: emporiabrands.com Email: info@emporiabrands.com or call 01483 458700

he adds, “a bit more elegant. I

probably wouldn’t mix this. If I did it would have to be a delightful

take on a classic Champagne cocktail:

brandy, Champagne, Angostura bitters and sugar.

“With its age, if this were a Cognac it

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 48

would qualify as an XO plus six years,

but this will only retail in the £50s. If you can find an XO Cognac below £120 retail, you’re doing a great job.”

Emporia can help out with samples to

generate customer interest.

“Armagnac’s a hand-sell in retail, but

you can get customers on board if you can show them the upgrade they’ll get while spending less money.

“It’s important to get liquid to lips when

you’re dealing with smaller brands and niche categories.”

he next liquids to lips in the

masterclass were two grappas from Nardini, a seventh-

generation family producer from northern Italy.

Unlike the well-known French

brandies, grappa is made from the pomace – skins, pulp and seeds –

left over from winemaking, rather than distilling wine itself. That can still result in

characterful products and

differing styles. McGowan-Madoo detected milk and white chocolate notes and green figs in Grappa Bianca 40, which would

work well in the traditional Italian caffé caretto serve, as a shot

alongside an espresso coffee. Bortolo Nardini 3 Anni

is a softer but more complex grappa aged in Slovenian oak.

“The grains are a lot

wider than other oak and it works better for ageing

grappa as far as Nardini is concerned,” said McGowan-Madoo. “There’s a tiny bit of

green pepper and a sharp hit of high-cocoa chocolate. This is a good one for cigar smokers.”

He added: “Grappa’s a very small

category and there’s lot more scope to grow.

“In the on-trade, it’s about getting bars to

recognise its viable use in cocktails and not just with coffee.”

Left: Nardini’s distillery at Ponte Vecchio in Bassano del Grappa is the oldest in Italy Right: Precision Calvados production at Père Magloire in Normandy

front of the fire.”

mporia runs National Calvados Week

Père Magloire’s Fine VS is a

to coincide with the harvest in the

column-distilled 2-year-old that

apple brandy’s Normandy home.

“works really well in a Calvados

There are two main appellations: Calvados

& Tonic because the tonic’s

Contrôllée is made from grapes across the

bitter aspect brings out the

entire Calvados region in column stills;

fruitiness of the apple”.

Pays d’Auge comes only from the region of that name where the best apples are

grown, and is distilled in a pot still twice

over. A third style, Calvados Domfrontais, uses pear distillate as well as apples, but

accounts for only around 1% of production. “A column still will give green, sharp

apple flavours,” said McGowan-Madoo,

“while pot distillation will give you rich,

‘Calvados will always taste of apples. An apple is extremely versatile – you can have it with pork or in a crumble or with ginger – as is Calvados’

round, red apple favours.”

Calvados is essentially distilled cider.

“From a 2-year-old to a 50-year-old it will

always taste of apples,” he added. “An apple is extremely versatile – you can have it

with pork or in a crumble or with ginger – as is Calvados. It’s a fresh apple taste that

works really well for a pre-dinner drink or

in a fruity cocktail. It’s not just for sitting in

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 49

The producer celebrated its

200th anniversary last year

and released VSOP Cask Finish as part of the festivities. It’s matured in oak for between four and five years and finished for five or six months

in whisky casks from Jura and Bunnahabhain on Islay.

“These days you hear people

talk of a whisky drinker’s rum or a whisky drinker’s tequila,

and this is a whisky drinker’s

Calvados,” said McGowan-Madoo.

“It’s taken all the great elements of the

two categories and put them together. It’s the sort of innovation that’s great for the category.”

THE WINEMAKER FILES //

Diego Castro, Adegas Terrae Adegas Terrae has more than 33 hectares of vineyards distributed among the five denominations of origin in Galicia: Rías Baixas, O Ribeiro, Monterrei, Ribeira Sacra and Valdeorras. All our wines are monovarietal. We try to make them to the highest quality and with the utmost care. There is no wine that we make that does not have its own personality. We have more than 20 references and they are all unique, either because of the variety or because of the soil, but they are special.

Wine must be linked to the territory from which it comes. Sometimes we focus too much on the variety of a wine, and we should link it more to an area, to climate and terrain, because these are unique things that cannot be reproduced in another part of the world. They may be similar, but not the same.

Galician wines have very interesting acidity and aromas, and we must enhance that, making wines that last longer on the market without losing those aromas. Adegas Terrae has a young team with innovative ideas. We try to get away from the image of a traditional winery, which is why we’ve tried to develop a new product concept through a daring company image and innovative packaging, with the aim of surprising the consumer by surpassing expectations both in terms of the presentation and the wine quality.

Without a doubt, the Godello of both the DO Valdeorras and the DO Monterrei is the variety that excites me most right now. Godello is a very attractive grape, a variety that captivates you from the first moment. It has the ability to give its best in a young wine. It is, without a doubt, a very good variety to work with if your aim is to bottle a landscape. And we cannot forget the Treixadura grape from DO Ribeiro and the Mencía grape from DO Ribeira Sacra. Galician wines today have their own personality in the market. That is a sign that things are being done well in all Galician appellations.

In the vineyards, we seek to be as respectful as possible with the land. We try to use the minimum number of phytosanitary treatments and always prioritise those treatments that are most respectful of the environment. In the five wineries, we have a company policy to try to use physical and biological processes which are the most respectful and do not harm the environment. Finally, we oblige all our suppliers to be correctly certified or to have implemented a company policy that is totally respectful of the environment. From the beginning, the importance of bottle designs has been fundamental for us. We want it to be the engine of our company. By giving the labels a modern and fresh touch, we want to attract a wider audience and, above all, capture that younger audience that has not yet entered

Adegas Terrae was created in 2017 with the aim of raising the profile and prestige of Galician wines. Working from five wineries across five DOs, the company aims to provide “affordable luxury” in each bottle. Adegas Terrae wines are imported into the UK by Moreno Wines 020 7289 9952 www.morenowines.co.uk

the world of wine. That is one of our main objectives.

In the UK, this year we are going to focus on creating a marketing plan, which, we hope, can help us position ourselves in the best possible way in the market. We want the UK to become one of our main international markets by the end of this year.

Abismo Treixadura

Agoreira Godello

Pepe Porter Mencia

From specially selected parcels located on the banks of the Avia river in the mild and humid Ribeiro region of Galicia. A clean and intense nose with citrus and sweet pear. The palate is fresh and aromatic with ripe stone fruits, sweet melon and delicate floral notes.

From vineyards at an altitude of 300m and 700m altitude in Valdeorras DO; the driest part of Galicia. Agoreira is a very refined style of Godello. Mouthwatering green apple, peach and quince alongside a clean and refreshing minerality.

The slate and schist soils of Monterrei DO imbue the Mencia with complex aromatics. This wine is clean and bright with a good cherry red colour. The palate is packed with crunchy red fruits – raspberry and redcurrant – while a more serious backbone of tannins provides depth.

RRP: £12

RRP: £15

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 50

RRP: £12

off the beaten track

We’re always looking for the extraordinary at Moreno and, while we all love Albariño and Rioja Blanco, there’s an abundance of alternatives that make Spanish whites so scintillating. Grab some of these gems from our portfolio …

Adaras Lluvia Blanco, RRP £10 Verdejo, Sauvignon Blanc The wine everyone falls in love with. Bodegas Venta la Vega is located in the mountainous clay, limestone area of Almansa. Mouth-watering stone fruit, lime and passionfruit flavours are backed up beautifully by steely minerality and complexity. A perfect “fridgedoor drink”.

Pepa Porter, RRP £12

Godello Godello: Albariño’s fit friend. This one comes from Monterrei, an area that benefits from hot and dry summers, as well as pretty cold winters. All this northern Spanish sunshine, plus four months on lees, has created a wine full of flavour and character. Juicy white peach, vibrant citrus notes and subtle orange blossom. El Xitxarel-lo, RRP £15 Xarel-lo Pronounced “el-chit-cha-rel-oh” with a sassy label full of Catalan insults and slang. Crazy on the outside, seriously good wine on the inside. Made from Cava’s favourite “Xarel-lo” grape. Fruit filled and fresh but with the structure and density characteristic of this variety. Kimera Ancestral Pet Nat, LMT Wines, RRP £23 Garnatxa Blanca Made from organically grown grapes in San Martin de Unx in Navarra. 20% of the wine is aged in used barrels for one year to create a fantastic mouthfeel alongside the refreshing acidity. White peach and ripe pear with a hint of fennel; the sort of wine that disappears from your glass without you realising it. Estones PX, RRP £24

Pedro Ximinez PX: famous for its use in teeth-numbingly sweet sherries, but not here! Working out of an old discotheque, good friends Sergi and Salvi have created this wonderfully dry version of PX. The wine is packed with honeyed sweet apricot and grape. A velvety smooth palate lifted by a fresh acidity. Akarregi Txiki Txakolina *built-in Txakoli pourer*, RRP £16

Hondarrabi Zuri Moreno Wines were pioneers where Txakoli is concerned, being the first to bring this delicious wine to British shores. This zippy little number is bottled with some residual CO2 to give it that distinctive Txakoli spritz. Herbaceous and green with ozone-like salinity, rasping acidity and freshness. Please drop us a line if you would like to try any of the wines featured. Email: sales@moreno-wines.co.uk

Phone: 0207 289 9952

Instagram: @morenowines

Sponsored content

Ribeira Sacra vineyards in Galicia

Albariño It may not be the most widely planted

(that dubious honour goes to the rapidly dwindling but still widespread Airén).

But Albariño is now firmly entrenched as the queen of Spanish white grape

varieties in terms of consumer recognition, export success, and premium pricing.

With the possible exception of Verdejo,

it’s the one Spanish white grape variety

(the one Spanish grape variety?) that UK

wine drinkers will request by name, with something like confidence in the style of wine they’ll find in the bottle.

Albariño’s vertiginous rise to

prominence over the past 30 years can be seen in the explosion of producers in Rías

peach, green apple, and floral stylings; there’s rather a lot of interchangeable varietal Albariño from the main Rías

Baixas sub-zone, the Salnés Valley around Pontevedra.

But there’s also plenty of

experimentation, variety and refinement,

too, with producers playing with extended lees ageing and skin contact, with vessels

made from concrete, stone and neutral oak, and, particularly in the sub-zones of Rías

Baixas closer to the Portuguese border, in blends à la Vinho Verde with Treixadura,

Loureiro and other fragrant northwestern Iberian native varieties.

Producers to look out for: Palacio de Fefiñanes, Pazo de Señorans, Zarate,

Baixas, the coastal Galician home region

Bodegas Albamar/Pepe Luis

400 today. Like Marlborough Sauvignon,

The Sierra de Gredos may not have a DO

steel-fermented expressions of Albariño’s

planted at considerable altitude in the

that dominates its production: from 20

Albillo Real

many of those producers focus on

of its own. But the wines made from the

wineries in the mid-1980s to more than

competently making breezy, crisp, stainless

remote, rediscovered, very old bush vines mountains that extend west from Madrid

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 52

are undoubtedly among the most exciting

not just in Spain but anywhere in the world at the moment.

As so often with Spanish wine, it’s the

reds that have garnered most attention so

far: pale-coloured, wildly aromatic, supple

Garnachas with a Pinot Noir-like grace. But the still-more rare whites are every bit as distinctive and worth seeking out. Made

from Albillo Real, and produced, like the

reds, in each of the four DOs that include Gredos vines within their boundaries

(Cebreros, Mentrida, Vinos de Madrid and the larger, regional Vinos de la Tierra de

Castilla y Léon), Gredos whites tend to have a mouthfilling fullness of texture combined with flavours and aromas that run from

wild fennel, green tea, hay and honey to the floral and the deeply savoury.

While generally low in acidity, Gredos

white wines have a natural balance that gives a feeling of freshness behind the weight, complexity and touch of grip.

These are wines made by highly committed producers prepared to work in very

Spain’s white heat David Williams profiles eight of the best Spanish white grape varieties –

and picks out some of his favourite producers of each

remote areas, with tiny plots of not at all

Priorat’s higher altitudes, and you can have

Castila y Leon’s Bierzo. These are wines

Evocative, highly individual wines filled

Producers to look out for: Herència Altes,

and minerals and real ageability, and are

productive vines. Amphora fermentation

and extended skin contact are not unusual. with character are all but assured.

Producers to look out for: Daniel Ramos,

wines that bring a stony minerality and

brightness to the richer stone-fruited tones. Acústic Celler, Far del Sud, Celler Piñol

Bodegas Marañones, Ruben Díaz Alonso

Godello

Garnacha Blanca

In UK terms, Godello was initially

There are only around 2,000ha of Garnacha Blanca planted in Spain. That’s less than

half the amount of Grenache Blanc you find just above the French border in Roussillon, and a tiny percentage of the amount

devoted to its red sibling, Garnacha Negra. But what it lacks in scale of production,

Garnacha Blanca more than makes up for in interest. Over the past decade or so,

producers in the variety’s Catalan home have been achieving increasingly great

things from their locally-spelt Garnatxa

Blanca, with weighty, serious gastronomic wines, notably from the “high land” Terra Alta DO to the west of Tarragona, and as

the principal element in the relatively rare but often very beautiful white blends of Priorat and Montsant.

It’s not an easy variety to get right.

Alcohol can easily run to excess; it can be overly broad, flabby and lacking

in definition; and it has a tendency to

oxidation. For all of those reasons, growers have historically relied on lighter, zippier white varieties such as Macabeo to bring a bit of balancing freshness to Garnacha Blanca-based wines. Given the right soil and conditions, however, notably the

balancing night-time cool of Terra Alta and

that combine a certain luminosity of

lemon or lemon curd with taut acidity unquestionably some of Spain’s finest white wines.

Producers to look out for: Rafael Palacios, Telmo Rodriguez, Raúl Peréz, Veronica

presented as a kind of bandwagon-jumping

Ortega

supermarket context, that meant it was

In discussions of what makes great sherry,

Galician next-big-thing in the wake of

Albariño’s first wave of success. In the

Palomino Fino … and Listán Blanco

always playing catch-up, and the initial run of perfectly clean, fresh and acceptable,

the process usually takes centre stage.

It’s the management of the soleras, the

but not especially character-filled, Godello own-label wines were always just a little

bit disappointing. As so often happens in our algorithmically organised world, we

don’t actually like the thing we’re told to

like just because we liked something else. Godello has also, arguably, suffered a

little for being harder to pin down than its more famous compatriot. There’s a much greater range of styles and approaches

than you’ll find with Albariño, from the

briskly aromatic to the weighty and barrelfermented. Like Chardonnay, that other chameleon grape variety with which it

is sometimes compared, it is something of a winemaker’s variety, responding to changes in approach, as well as being sensitive to terroir.

That Godello retains an exalted place

among Spanish wine lovers is down to the

exceptional quality of its very best bottles, mostly from inland Galician sites such as

Valdeorras, Ribeira Sacra, and Monterrei, and just across the regional border into

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 53

fortification and the prodigious palate and memory of the master blender that count, more than the origins (aka terroir) and ingredients (the grape variety).

Perhaps that’s why Palomino Fino’s role

in the finest fortified wines is sometimes underplayed. It’s presented as usefully

neutral, a kind of tabula rasa on which the bodegas can inscribe their house style,

its absence of character as useful as Ugni Blanc’s in the production of Cognac.

The past decade has seen Palomino enjoy

something of a reappraisal, however. A

small but influential group of producers have switched their attention to the

region’s many soil variations on a theme of albariza chalk, producing Palomino

wines from single plots both with and

without fortification and flor ageing. The

results have been fascinating, occasionally startling, if decidedly small in scale,

pointing to a very different future from the

region – and Palomino – as a fine light wine grape variety.

That shouldn’t be surprising, certainly

for anyone familiar with the wines that have been made from the same grape

variety, albeit under the pseudonym of

Listán Blanco, as part of the recent vinous renaissance on the Canary Islands. The wild whites, with their almost febrile

acidity and hints of smoky minerality,

well-managed barrel fermentation, which,

strength rather than being dismissed as

richness and fullness of texture that is

means it is still the core of the great classic

along with the lower yields, often from

older vines, brings a dramatic intensity,

reminiscent of the best of white Bordeaux, albeit with a distinctive twist of its own. Producers to look out for: Barco del Corneta, Javier Sanz, Bodegas Naia

lacking in a single fixed character. Its ability to age gracefully in barrel and then bottle

trad white Riojas while, at the other end of

the spectrum, it is capable of making floralspicy aromatic unoaked easy-drinkers and zeitgeisty skin-contact whites.

Producers to look out for: Lopéz de

produced at high altitude from old (in

some cases pre-Phylloxera) vines on the

Viura … and Macabeo

even further away from the stereotype of

Palomino (or Listán) as a neutral wine that

role in the creation of some of Spain’s

finest white wines has tended to be rather

Xarel·lo

traditional reluctance of Rioja, that most

French-influenced of Spanish wine regions,

widely used to make arresting single-

varietal wines, the breakout star of the

Heredia, Marqués de Murrieta, Còsmic

volcanic soils of the Orotova valley, take us

Like Palomino in Jerez, Viura’s central

Vinyeters

needs a fortifying dash of spirit before it

underplayed. In part, that’s down to the

While both Macabeo and Parelleda are

to give its grape varieties star billing, or

traditional Catalan Cava trio is without

gets interesting.

Producers to look out for: Bodegas Cota 45, Bodegas Luis Peréz, Suertes del Marqués

Verdejo Albariño’s closest challenger for the

“aromatic Spanish white” slot on wine bar and merchant lists, Verdejo hasn’t always been well served by the larger producers

pumping it out by the pungent hectolitre, either in its Rueda DO homeland or in larger, more generic Vino de la Tierra

even a place anywhere in the credits. In part it’s to do with that sense that, like

great sherry, great Rioja has historically been more about a winery’s mastery of

extended oak ageing than the ingredients of what’s being aged.

Viura’s status as white Rioja kingpin has been challenged, too, in the past 15 years, by the

designations. At its mass-produced,

Rioja Consejo’s

high-yielding, unbalanced worst,

admission of

Verdejo’s natural aromatic

a range of

exuberance can, like cheap

new grape

Sauvignon, get a little too much,

varieties into

the tropical turning into the

the official white

sweaty, without the lift of freshening

Rioja mix: from

acidity.

At its best, however, Verdejo retains

the ability to act as an affordable and

distinctive alternative to Kiwi Sauvignon – and become something much more interesting.

It’s a variety that seems to need the

poor soils and wildly extreme day-to-

night temperature swings of Rueda to find its best expression, that combination of

punchy exotic fruit with complex herbal, green olive and almond nutty bitterness and soft free-flowing acidity.

As with Albariño, a number of the better

producers are also finding it can respond beautifully to extended lees contact and

international

big hitters such as

Chardonnay and Sauvignon

Blanc, to recovered regional specialities

such as Maturana Blanca and Tempranillo Blanco.

It’s been a similar situation in Viura’s

other main Spanish stronghold in Penedès, where Macabeo has generally been hidden as one of the three constituents of the traditional Cava blend.

Whatever the history, however, it’s clear

that Viura/Macabeo’s talents have never

been more widely or intriguingly deployed, its ability to produce wines in a range of styles now seen as a Chardonnay-esque

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 54

question Xarel·lo.

Certainly, there are few more fashionable

varieties in the wine bars and restaurants

of Barcelona, where old-vine Xarel·lo from Alt-Penedès and the coastal vineyards of Alella (where Xarel·lo is known as Pansa

Blanca), just a few minutes drive from the city, are prized for their combination of

pristine citrus acidity and salty or chalky minerals – not unlike the powerfully

flavoured local sparkling mineral water

brand, Vichy Catalan – as well as classically Mediterranean notes of chamomile, fennel,

thyme and, in riper versions, juicy pear and white peach.

These are wines that demonstrate why

Xarel·lo has always been a fundamental

part of the Cava blend: its ability to retain crisp acidity in a climate that might not

necessarily suggest itself as ideally suited to sparkling wine. Not surprisingly, then, many of the best still Xarel·lo makers

have experience with the fizzy iteration,

making varietal Xarel·lo as a side project to the main, profitable event. Given that

this part of the world has been a key player in the natural wine movement, neither is it surprising to see that many of the

most interesting Xarel·los have been given

extended skin contact or aged in amphorae. Producers to look out for: Celler Credo, Alta Alella, Enric Soler.

TIM ATKIN MW PRAISES THE QUALITY OF

96 points: Finca Valpiedra Blanco 2017 Reserva 12% “Lauren Rosillo uses a combination of

FINCA VALPIEDRA

American and 33% French wood on this

IN THE 2022 EDITION

with 50% Garnacha Blanca and Maturana

OF HIS

‘more Riojan’. Sappy, toasty and chalky, with

RIOJA REPORT

wonderfully complex cuvée of old vine Viura Blanca because he finds the combination subtle lemongrass, citrus peel and grapefruit flavours and a salty, refreshing finish.”

Finca Valpiedra Blanco 2017 gets 96 points; Finca Valpiedra 2015, 95; Petra de Valpiedra 2018, 94; Cantos de Valpiedra 2017, 92. Sponsored feature

95 points: Finca Valpiedra 2015 Reserva (13.5%) “Winemaker Lauren Rosillo is a big fan of the 2015 vintage – and who can blame him when it makes wines that are as good as this release from one of Rioja’s very few single estates? Tempranillo-based, with support from 8%

Graciano and Maturana Tinta, it has classic nce again, the wines of Finca

restraint and patrician elegance, herbal, cassis,

Valpiedra and Viña Bujanda, by

red berry and kitchen spice notes, finely-

Familia Martínez Bujanda, have

judged tannins and refreshing minerality.”

received exceptional evaluations and comments in the much-anticipated Rioja Report, published by Master of Wine, Tim Atkin. The outstanding scores of all four of the wines

94 points: Petra de Valpiedra 2018

from Finca Valpiedra are of particular note.

Génerico (13.5%)

Finca Valpiedra can be found in an unrivalled

“Something of a below-the-radar wine at

part of the DOCa Rioja, in a spectacular curve

Finca Valpiedra, this is the third release

of the Ebro River. Its 80 hectares of vineyards,

of a pure Garnacha from this spectacular

divided into 15 plots, are distributed over three

site about the River Ebro. Grafted on to

terraces which slope down to the river bank.

Cabernet Sauvignon roots, it has taken to

Each of the four wines is made exclusively with

its new environment with aplomb. Spicy,

grapes from the Finca Valpiedra estate.

sappy and very focused, it’s a lower alcohol

The latest scores mark another year of excellence for Familia Martínez Bujanda and

style with filigree tannins, red cherry and raspberry fruit and deftly-judged oak.”

reflect the hard work and dedication of over 130 years of winemaking. Lauren Rosillo, technical director of Familia Martínez Bujanda, commented on Atkin’s report, saying: “We are

92 Points: Cantos de Valpiedra 2017

very motivated by these scores, which encourage

Crianza (13%)

us to keep working and improving. We are not

“Cantos is made with Tempranillo fruit

yet satisfied, and will continue working to score

grown close to the River Ebro on stony,

100 points for all of our wines.”

alluvial soils and is correspondingly lighter in style than Finca Valpiedra itself. Showing

See opposite for Tim Atkin’s comments on

no sign of the heat of the vintage, this is

each of these spectacular wines. To find out

elegant, balanced, polished and refined, with

more, contact your Berkmann account manager

aromatic spices and tobacco and blackberry

or email info@berkmann.co.uk.

notes.”

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 55

THE WINEMAKER FILES //

Katia Álvarez Bugarín Martín Códax, Rías Baixas

Martín Códax is a Rías Baixas producer that was instrumental in drawing up the plans for the regional DO and which remains one of its most influential players. Katia was born and bred in Galicia and joined the business in 2005, immediately forging a bond with the winery’s hundreds of small growers.

Martín Códax was founded by 50 wine growers in 1986, two years before the Rías Baixas DO was created in 1988. Albariño is a variety indigenous to this part of Spain and people wanted to develop the market for white wines, which was smaller then than it is now. They had a meeting here at the winery; everyone in the region was focused on quality wines. They weren’t just making white wines to sell in bulk, as was happening in a lot of Spanish regions. I am from Galicia. When I started my studies I took the decision to go to Rioja to study oenology. I spent several years in Rioja and also made wines in Chile. I wanted to open my mind, to see another country and how other producers were working. In 2005, I had the opportunity to start working with Martín Códax winery. Galician people have a strong feeling about home, and we always try to come back.

It was important to start a project like this with some humility and to learn about what people are doing in their region and understand how people work with Albariño in Rías Baixas. Our family home is in the south, so I needed to understand the different valleys: at that time, nobody was talking about why Albariño from O Condado was different from Salnés, for example, or O Rosal. We needed to understand what we had on our hands. We are really focused on the Salnés valley. We have about 400 wine growers in Salnés but we also have plots in O Condado and the Rosal valley.

We share information with winegrowers all the time. For example we have a programme on the local radio where we give information about the week’s weather – maybe we’ll have a lot of rain, so growers have to pay attention to powdery mildew. We have a WhatsApp group to send information to winegrowers and we are developing an online platform where we will be able to share key information with them to keep them updated at all times and give then all the support needed. We have meetings explaining how we will make the grape selection, to make sure we maintain the quality and profile of our wines. We are always working on new things and looking for small plots to find something different. We’re working to see how Albariño develops in amphorae. We started to make sparkling wines and we’re learning more and more about that. The one we make at the moment spends 36 months on the lees but we’re experimenting with one that has more than 50 months in bottle. We’ve also started to make an orange wine. A wine is a blend between the variety, the soil and the climate conditions. We have a very strong Atlantic influence and a granitic soil and Albariño is very well adapted to our conditions. It’s easy to make a really good wine from Albariño in other parts of the world, but the wines I taste perhaps don’t have the freshness and saltiness that we can achieve here. We have to make Rías Baixas to Albariño what Chablis is to Chardonnay.

Martín Códax wines are imported into the UK by Enotria&Coe 020 8961 5161 www.enotriacoe.com

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 57

Martín Códax Albariño RRP: £16.50 This is the perfect example of what we are. It’s really special because in a glass of wine you can feel all the characteristics of the Salnés valley. You can feel the saltiness and its unique freshness. It’s a wine that helps you understand what an Albariño is from this area. It’s very clean, with a high intensity, and very linear.

Martín Códax Sobre Lías Albariño RRP: £21 Here we’re looking for a little more concentration. In this wine we can see how Albariño can develop without oak and make a much more complex wine. There’s cold fermentation then ageing over the lees, and at the end we have a complex wine with a creamy nose and some spice, and much more texture.

Martín Códax Gallaecia Late Harvest Albariño RRP: £37.50 A special wine, made in special years, with botrytised grapes. There’s an aroma of ripe orange with floral hints; also some honey. Everybody thinks it’s a sweet wine but when you taste it it seems dry. It’s really different and unique and I think it’s only in Rías Baixas that we make a wine like this.

. T H E D R AY M A N .

We’ve come a long way since Barbican Technology means alcohol-free beers now actually taste like beer – and the stigma that used to come with them has drained away

got a tip-off a while back from none other than The Wine

today’s low-alcohol beers are aping a greater variety of beer

Merchant’s editor: in moderation mode he’d taken a punt on

styles that have mass appreciation – and dozens of iterations of

some cans of Sussex-based Only With Love’s Juicy AF pale

each of those styles.

ale, a 0.5% abv brew which was, he speculated, “the best nablab I’ve tasted”.

Another influence on the revolution has been brewing technology: it’s just easier and cheaper than ever before to

Not long after, I was in Hove’s wonderful Watchmaker’s Arms micropub and a pal was sipping on something that had the

balance and retain flavour in beers while taking or leaving the alcohol out.

portentously hazy look of a potent, hipster IPA. It turned out he was Dry January-ing and, again, the beer in question was Only With Love Juicy AF. “It is,” noted the Watchmaker’s co-owner Rick Evans, “the best alcohol-free beer I’ve ever tasted.” The power of that coincidence could plant the idea of reaching a great tipping point in the no- and low-alcohol beer market, but it’s been a much gentler revolution that’s led us from

aken as a whole, the result is greater variety and quality across the low and no-alcohol beer market, not just in one corner of rural Sussex. Two craft brewing names of note, Magic Rock and Wiper & True, recently collaborated

Barbican (an insipid lager made by Bass and advertised by the

on a 0.5% abv Blood Orange & Mandarin

Southampton football manager in the 1970s) to Juicy from Only

gose (itself a niche sour beer style with a

With Love, whose beers, of course, aren’t only made with love.

saline bite), a zingy, citrus belter called

Juicy AF, for example, contains Columbus, El Dorado and

Fresh Start.

Mosaic hops, which contribute as much, if not more, to its

American

tropical fruit bomb character. Only With Love also makes

alcohol-free

specialist

Athletic Brewing has supplemented its

Zippy – an alcohol-free strawberry and lime sour – and

Run Wild IPA and Upside Dawn golden ale

Happy, a Black Forest Gateaux [sic] stout that is the most

with All Out, a luscious, full-bodied beer

unlikely sounding successes of all its 0.5% abv beers.

with layers of warming coffee and chocolate

The modern acceptance/love of robust beer flavours has been

flavours.

one driver of the revolution. Whereas brewers of yesteryear were

One of Athletic’s numerous British alcohol-free

briefed to come up with versions of their already insipid lagers,

rivals, Big Drop, was given “world’s best” status at last year’s World Beer Awards for its Galactic milk stout and Paradiso, a single varietal Citra IPA, which has previously gone head-tohead with 6% abv versions of the style at the competition … and won. And that’s a final factor that’s been significant in this transformation in alcohol-free’s fortunes: it can be a source of pride and passion for those who make it, unhampered by the notion that it’s something they don’t want to be seen dead doing. Alcohol-free is a credible choice for modern brewers and breweries, beers not produced under duress as a marketing department looks for quick-fix solutions to nuisance problems like drink-driving, but ones to made (almost) only with love.

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 58

THE WINEMAKER FILES //

Hubert de Boüard Château La Fleur de Boüard The Lalande de Pomerol terroir, together with Saint-Emilion and Pomerol, is one of Bordeaux’s great right bank appellations. Merlot is the most widely-planted variety here, but Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon also play an important part. The wines display smoothness of texture, attractive tannins and intensely aromatic fruit.

The vineyards of Angélus and Bellevue are distinct from those of Château La Fleur de Boüard, primarily because of their appellation. The only common denominator between these three estates is myself. I’m winemaker and co-owner of Angélus and I look after the vinification of the wines of each estate.

Château La Fleur de Boüard is above all a Pomerol-style wine with great softness of texture and a predominance of black fruit and floral aromas, such as violets. The wines are hedonistic and full of charm. It’s true that we now favour the production of Cabernet Sauvignon over Cabernet Franc. It has to be said that Cabernet Sauvignon performs wonderfully well in these fantastic soils made up of gravel over clay. We grow it in the Médoc

way, with high-density plantations and low-trained vines with two arms each.

We’ve made substantial investment in this high-density vineyard. We use carefully chosen rootstocks, and have worked with massal selection for over 20 years.

We’ve adapted eco-friendly vinegrowing methods. These include pest prevention using pheromone traps; the seeding of cover crops enabling optimal soil moisture control; and pruning methods respecting the sap flow and enabling better ageing of the vines as well as optimal aeration of the grapes. There’s been a transformation of the vineyard towards HVE and ISO certification. We’ve introduced beehives and increased the vine rooting surface area via an adapted cover crop. We built a new vinification and ageing cellar, combining all the latest technologies in order to maintain perfect extraction for elegance, purity and finesse. The equipment includes temperature and humidity controls for better ageing of the wine.

Acquired in 1998 by Hubert de Boüard, the world-renowned winemaker and co-owner of St Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classé “A” Château Angélus, Château La Fleur de Boüard is located close to the village of Néac on the most soughtafter terrior of Lalande-de-Pomerol. Château La Fleur de Boüard wines are imported into the UK by Mentzendorff 020 7840 3600 www.mentzendorff.co.uk As a wine estate, La Fleur de Boüard aims to do more in order to protect nature and the environment while at the same time pursuing its primary goal, which is to produce wines of purity and elegance to be shared and enjoyed. Our vineyard is family-owned and run on a human scale. We seek an ever-closer contact with consumers, and so we would like to organise ways of meeting them more and more regularly.

La Fleur de Boüard 2014

Le Plus de la Fleur de Boüard 2013

The estate’s flagship wine. It’s made from a complexity of terroirs containing both gravel and clay, which provide a very velvety and elegant tannic feel. The wine shows great consistency of quality from one vintage to the next.

A little gem of a wine produced from very low-yielding old Merlot vines (over 70 years). This is a wine of great richness and elegance. Its complexity is worthy of the greatest Pomerol.

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 59

A new look for an old Valdespino has revitalised its famous sherry range with fresh packaging and Bordeaux bottles, designed to reinforce its wine credentials. Find out more by contacting exclusive UK importer Liberty Wines

obody who knows Valdespino sherries would welcome any interference with what goes

inside the bottles. But, for a while now, the

bottles themselves have been in need of an upgrade.

That’s why the entire range has been

given a comprehensive makeover, and the

structure of the portfolio streamlined into clearly-defined tiers.

The most obvious change is that the

sherries are now presented in Bordeaux bottles, rather than the Jerez model that

now tends to be associated with grocery own-labels. The idea is to prove to

consumers that sherry is a serious wine in its own right.

“We’ve had a fantastic response from

all markets,” says export director Ignacio

López de Carrizosa. “Most of our customers believe we needed a change. I think we’ve actually been quite daring.

“We’ve classified and tidied up the whole

portfolio a little bit, into ranges that we call Collections. Moving to a Bordeaux bottle

allows us to bring the bottles on

to the table and talk about wine pairing – sherry pairing, in this case – and to make the wines

more accessible to consumers. “We had our doubts at the

beginning because it was a

big change. But we showed the designs to some of our

key customers, and they all

decided it was something we

had to do. The result has been phenomenal, really.”

THE VALDESPINO PREMIUM COLLECTION “The Premium Collection covers all sherry styles from manzanilla to cream,” says

Ignacio. “This tier also includes single-

vineyard sherries, which is a concept that’s pretty unique to Valdespino. The fino

and amontillado come from Macharnudo, which is an iconic sherry cru in the heart of the DO.”

THE VALDESPINO CLASSIC COLLECTION “These are blends of wines that have been in the house for well over 100 years,” Ignacio explains.

“Most of our soleras were

founded back in the late 19th

century or early 20th century and the wines have very classic labels.

“You have wines like

Contrabandista, which is a

medium dry amontillado, and Promesa, a Moscatel, and El Candado: ‘the padlock’.

“We’ve tried to maintain

the soul and the spirit of

the labels and not tried to

be too daring or innovative in reviewing that range. The quality of the paper has improved a lot.

“A very difficult step was to get rid of the

actual padlock hanging from the neck of

El Candado. Talking to waiters, bartenders and sommeliers, they used to say it was a

nightmare to open that bottle. We tried to make it more wine-like.”

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 60

THE VALDESPINO VOS COLLECTION “VOS, or Very Old Sherry, means the wines have been aged for a minimum of 20 years,” says Ignacio.

“We originally had two wines in this

category: Solera 1842, a medium sweet

oloroso; and Don Gonzalo, a dry oloroso. “We’ve now included palo cortado

Viejo CP. In fact that wine was already 25 years old but, for a number of reasons, it hadn’t been

classified by the sherry DO. So now we’ve decided to include it.”

He adds: “We’ve also moved

to just one format, 50cl

bottles, for the VOS and VORS Collections. It’s more user-

friendly for this style of wine. They’re expensive wines,

so this makes them more

affordable, and it allows us to

d classic

bottle slightly larger batches than we could

and won trophies in wine competitions.

THE VALDESPINO VORS COLLECTION &

collection we have is Toneles, which was

with 75cl.”

MOSCATEL TONELES Ignacio says: “VORS – Very Old Rare

Sherries – are aged for a minimum of 30 years.

“These are what we call the Sacristía

wines, which is a term used in the sherry region for wines that go back to the

creation of the company: very limited, very special wines.

“Most of these wines are well over 40 or

50 years old and the soleras go back to the late 19th century.

“We cover all the VORS styles, with an

amontillado, a palo cortado, an oloroso and a PX.

“All this is ultra-limited. These wines

have been given very high marks by Parker

They have a fantastic reputation all around the world.

“The most limited and prestigious

awarded 100

Parker points.

“We put out just

a few half-bottles to make it more available, but in fact we’re just

talking about a few hundred per year. “We’re going to

be launching some limited batches of

other wines every year. A couple of years

ago we launched a single-vineyard, single-

cask palo cortado vintage. Very soon we’re

going to be launching a vintage manzanilla – again, something new and unique.”

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 61

he first lockdown in 2020 resulted in a surprise boom in sherry sales and Ignacio says the trend has

continued since then.

“In the UK it’s impacted on entry-level

sherries sold in supermarkets – people

have been drinking at home and learned about sherry in a more relaxed way,” he says.

“But the premium and high-end sherries

have also done very well. Liberty have

performed phenomenally for the past two

years and we’ve increased our sherry sales with them in terms of both volume and value.

“People had time to cook and try new

things and rediscover some wines that had been pushed aside for a long time – and

they’ve found that sherry is a very versatile food-pairing wine.”

Feature sponsored by Liberty Wines

unsatisfactory. Never really what you want

f course you remember Soup to

and yet pretty good at the (same) time. The

Crisps from a previous, unmissable

Hippy Shop usually delivers a couple of

Amazing Lunch (I mean not if

portions of unclaimed, end-of-shift soup on

you work in the same shop as me, where

a Saturday night, courtesy of wild-haired

the idea of plain crisps with a sachet of

dehydrated soup has created quite a stir (!)

recently, with the Bold Craig telling me that whilst I had had (top quiet moment game for you, punctuate this sentence so that

it makes sense: “John where Bob had had

had had had had had had had had had full marks”) many ideas in the course of our

friendship, Soup to Crisps was Solid Gold. Take that, Ideas Factory!

16. EASY MISO Phoebe Weller of Valhalla’s Goat in Glasgow knows that soups are generally a bit meh. But there are clever ways of minimising the disappointment.

Natural Jim, the Ideas Factory has now

morphed into the Curiosity Club to which

Booze and Bad Behaviour?” The Curiosity

making you a bit less unified than before,

some pretty crazy, highly exclamatory and

I posited the question, “Does big-storm

wind floss and shoogle your cells around, a bit Storm Crazy, a bit like Full Moon

Crazy which (science!) pulls your cells up

towards the moon, making you hungry for

soup! exactly what i needed, but somehow not what i wanted.

say viral? Seems a bit off) “Buckets on Feet to Save Flash-flooded Car!” which was,

yes, thanks for noticing, featured on the

Mirror’s digital platform. Excellent content, Prince Harry (not that one), but not quite as good as the ongoing Social Meadia campaign.

I had made a weird cottage pie: mostly

mushrooms and sweet potato which on

For those of you who want to keep

updated on the time-stealing activities of

Inigo, yes he of the Viral Smash (do we still

Club was pretty incurious about this one, sending me a whole bunch of links to

unfounded Hippy Shit (imagine!) leading me to email them with the killer line,

“What is this, the Google Gang?” (thanks

J-Dog for this one, you are indeed the

brains of the outfit) but I don’t think I have yet

explored with you some of

my Amazing Soups.

Soups are

great, aren’t

they? Liquid and yet

sometimes not liquid,

nourishing and at the

same time slightly

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 62

day two was losing its appeal a bit. I mean, day one wasn’t that appealing but it was

definitely food. Do you know what I did? I

just plopped the weird cottage pie into the

centre of the donated soup – like a savoury Île Flottante, and voila! Hearty psychedelic Sunday soup, essentially from nothing.

nother Soup I make essentially

from nothing is my miso+ where I take the scraps of burnt meat

from the house, liberally seasoned with Laoganma dried chilli and sesame oil and add a variety of frozen veg: peas, sweetcorn, broad beans. By 3pm, the

frozen veg has thawed. Add a handful

of spinach plus a diced or torn (doesn’t

really work) syboe. Then make a tiny jug

of Hearty Red Instant Miso Soup with Sea Vegetable, wait for the sea vegetable to

rehydrate and quickly quickly pour it over the solid soup matter, sealing with the

handy Sistema clip-top lid which I never for a moment regret buying.

And there you have it! A nourishing

Amazing Lunch, ready to sit in the kitchen to get cold whilst some goon waylays you to spraff on about some shit. Easy and nutritious. You’re welcome!

Wine & Champagne preservation from Bermar We’ve heard a lot of merchants mention Le Verre de Vin recently and we can see why this slimline piece of kit would appeal. The dual preservation device means you can reseal an unlimited selection of still and sparkling wines, guaranteed to keep fresh for up to 21 days from first opening the bottle. To explore the Le

Eco-friendly bottle bags

Verre de Vin+ series, which includes

Bottle bags are a simple and cost-

wall mounted and under-counter

effective way for customers to turn a

options, visit bermar.co.uk.

bottle into a gift. WBC offers a range of 11 different designs, which have the added appeal of being 100% recyclable, biodegradable and plastic free. The handles are made from cotton rope rather than polyester and, unlike rival products, are not laminated in plastic. The reinforced base means they will safely carry a standardsized bottle of Champagne or wine. Prices start at £1.06 ex VAT. Shop the range at wbc.co.uk/bottle-bags Call WBC on 020 7737 4040 and quote The Wine Merchant for a FREE sample pack (available while stocks last).

The original Rite of Spring, named after Stravinsky’s revolutionary work first performed in Paris in 1913, calls for an obscure French gentian liqueur called Suze. The Italian herbal liqueur amaro is a little more on point at the moment, and many contain gentian, so it’s a decent substitute to provide the bitter-sweet element in this refashioned version. Cocchi is the best-known producer of the aromatised wine Americano Bianco, which, as an aside, is frequently used as a substitute for the long-discontinued Kina Lillet white wine liqueur in the Vesper Martini, James Bond’s original drink of choice in Casino Royale.

5cl Old Tom gin 2cl Amaro 2cl Americano Bianco 2cl rhubarb bitters

Stir all the ingredients together with ice in a Boston shaker glass and strain into an Old-fashioned glass filled with ice to serve.

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 63

The only way isn’t Essex ... because Lyme Bay Winery is working with fruit from partner growers all over the south of England. Yet there’s something extra special about Essex’s Crouch Valley, a consistent source of healthy and ripe grapes, which makes its fruit a crucial element of Lyme Bay’s acclaimed range of still wines, a selection of which were recently tasted by Wine Merchant readers. Find out more by contacting Lyme Bay Winery on 01297 551355 or visit lymebaywinery.co.uk

ssex played a significant cameo in a Zoom

Swansea, said it displayed “great crispness, a

tasting of wines from Devon’s Lyme Bay

freshness, with lovely flavour range from citrus to

Winery.

Having been founded as a cider producer in

1993, the company has gone on to become the UK’s

largest producer of fruit wine and mead, but it’s also building a reputation for its still wines – which is where Essex comes in.

Lyme Bay sources grapes on long-term contracts

from some of the leading growers across southern England to make its wines – and Essex’s Crouch

Valley is one of the best, with its high sunshine

pineapple”.

2020 was a fantastic year for Bacchus, in many ways one of the best ever. The grapes came in clean but extremely expressive

hours, low rainfall, south facing vineyards and

Next up was Lyme Bay’s 2020 Bacchus single

varietal, made from Essex and Herefordshire grapes. Lambert added: “When it’s overripe, Bacchus

gives brilliant tropical flavours, while under-ripe it

gives you brilliant citrus flavours; in between it’s a bit boring.

“2020 was fantastic year for Bacchus, in many

ways one of the best ever, in that the grapes came in clean but extremely expressive.”

The wine was formerly named Sandbar but was

proximity to the river from which it takes its name

relabelled as simply Bacchus in a recent range

helping to mitigate against frost. These attributes

revamp.

make it great for Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and

Head of sales Paul Sullivan said: “We’ve seen

Pinot Noir in particular.

a 30% uplift in sales as a result. There’s a high

“We’re very targeted in our approach,” said

degree of consumer understanding of Bacchus now

managing director and winemaker James Lambert.

that didn’t exist some years ago. It’s a really nice

“We’re a bit like the man from Del Monte, pinpointing

opportunity.”

areas where certain grape varieties show excellent

Natasha Pearson, of Mr & Mrs Fine Wine in

ripeness and fruit expression.”

Southwell, noticed “an almost sherbet-like finish,

The tasting led off with Shoreline, Lyme Bay’s

which is lovely”.

Lyme Bay’s Bacchus Block is, said Lambert, “a

flagship blended white, in which Bacchus always forms the majority, with a supporting cast that

step up in intensity, structure and length”.

includes Reichensteiner, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc

He added: “It’s a winemaker’s wine; it walks a

and Pinot Noir, depending on the vintage.

tightrope between being hugely expressive and

Grapes from Herefordshire, Kent and Devon

slightly reductive.

joined the Essex lot in the 2020 vintage tasted.

“We wait to see where the best fruit comes from.

“We’ll always look for crisp acidity but it’s never

With these particular growers it was the first

formulaic because different parcels of grapes with

Bacchus that came into us in 2020 and it leapt out

different degrees of ripeness are coming in each

straight away.

year,” added Lambert.

“It’s more on the tropical spectrum than on the

Dafydd Morris, of Cheers Wine Merchants in

citrus; more pineapple, more gooseberry, and

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 64

Winemaker James Lambert

Harvest time in Devon

“We’re looking to showcase the natural ripeness

blackcurrant leaf and some lime coming through – more intensity.”

of Chardonnay without going over the top with oak.

really well on a restaurant list at £35-£40.”

majority is fermented in stainless steel, and we

“The Chardonnay comes from clay-based soils

Russell Paine, at Clipper Wines in Portsmouth,

said: “The Bacchus Block would stand up for itself

which gives a naturally richer style. The vast

said, “we decided early on we were going to make

this wine to have a seductive, mid-palate weight and

effectively season with a portion in oak. We want

For its 2020 Sauvignon Blanc varietal, Lambert

structure to it.”

a wine in a boutique style, and we weren’t going to

A blend of aromatic and non-aromatic fruit, the

mimic what has been done in New Zealand – make something with a bit more structure and finesse”.

wine impressed with its complex nose of apples and

intensity,” added Lambert. “There’s no malolactic

the 2020 Pinot Noir.

texture.”

on the palate, and a mouthwatering finish.

The

wine

was

whole-bunch

pressed

peaches, with a hint of toast, and stone-fruit palate.

and

Crouch Valley was also the source of grapes for

fermented in oak. “It’s all about complexity and

With black cherries and smoky oak on the nose,

fermentation but there is some lees stirring in the barrel, to get mid-palate structure and a creamy

the wine has plums, blackcurrants and strawberries

presence in English still wine in future years. “The

balance of flavour, colour and texture.

almost been too cautious in seeing what is capable

subsidised the growers, to meet our needs on

Lambert said: “We’re looking to give a beautiful

He expects Sauvignon to become a bigger

“We limit yields to 2.5 tonnes per acre and, in

industry has been so razor-focused on sparkling

more challenging years, we’ve reduced that and

wines and the more historical varieties that we’ve

quality rather than to maximise what they can get

from certain ripe areas of the UK,” he said.

out of the vineyard.”

“Crouch Valley is one of those with a unique

micro-climate.”

Rob Freddi at Albertine Wine Bar in west London

said Lyme Bay had “achieved something quite special” with the Sauvignon.

Feature sponsored by

He added: “The fruit character is restrained yet

exuberant; it is fresh and springy despite the nice weight on the palate.”

Lyme Bay’s 2020 Chardonnay was also made

with fruit from Crouch Valley, with the grapes

expressing “exceptional levels of ripeness”, said Lambert.

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 65

ENGLISH WINE

In search of England’s mavericks The UK’s domestic wine industry is attracting big-money investors these days. But, says author Ed Dallimore, there are plenty of small-scale vignerons adding colour and personality to the scene

couple of sensational Col Fondo sparkling

Rice (Hattingley, Roebuck, Raimes and

those fortunate enough to have a back

establishing his vineyard. The Black

Mountain winery is a small green shed,

and others), Britain has signature names

inemaking in England and

Wales used to be an almost

exclusively amateur game. A

few vines in the back paddock affair, for paddock. But times have changed. The surge of premium English and Welsh

winemaking is in no small part thanks to a seismic shift to professionalism.

Investment and opportunity are key

– as is a focus on premium quality – but

winemaking in Britain is no longer merely a pastime of former city dwellers and

their early retirement funds. We’re rich in artisans and mavericks that hand-make

great wines as an expression of site and

season. Discovering them is almost the best part.

In a Herefordshire field rented from

his friend’s mum, Mark Smith makes a Ed Dallimore

wines using fermenting must as a tirage. He had a full-time job for six years while

where everything is done by hand, with a kitchen jug to top up the bottles.

Having made wine in the southern

hemisphere, Tim Phillips cycled past a once abandoned walled kitchen garden for sale near Lymington. He did the last thing you would expect to succeed in a climate so

cool: plant Riesling. Now his wines are only available via ballot.

Probably England’s best value

traditional-method sparkling wine is made by Tommy Grimshaw at Langham Estate in Dorset. He fell into the industry after

leaving school, through a job at his local winery, Sharpham. Curating almost 100

parcels of juice each season – all reflections of year, grape, clone and individual patch of Dorset chalk – he blends these into a core

range of just three wines. Former Langham winemaker Daniel Ham left, despite the

growth in demand for English sparkling, to establish Offbeat winery in Wiltshire.

There, he makes biodynamic wine with a 50-year-old Coquard press he found in a cellar in Champagne.

here’s investment, but in the right

places. It’s hugely exciting, too. Not bound by centuries of tradition or

several other labels) and Dermot Sugrue (Wiston Estate, Sugrue South Downs

who’ve travelled the world and honed

their individual approach based on eclectic experiences. Their success, and that of

their backers, breeds further success and wider opportunity.

acob Leadley is someone who left the

city to indulge his passion. He trained at Plumpton, gained expertise and,

seven years later, acquired a supreme

collection of existing Hampshire vines.

Zoë Driver worked at Chandon while

travelling in Australia, and later became

Hattingley’s first winemaking apprentice. Together at Black Chalk they make wines that are testament to an incredible

site, experimentation, their combined

talents and a fastidious – and long-term – approach.

You might see and hear less about

the likes of Black Mountain and Charlie Herring; the volumes and marketing

budgets are minuscule. But they’re out

there, the wines are outstanding, and their dedication and stories are great in equal measure. Most exciting of all, are those we’re yet to find.

The Vineyards of Britain by Ed

strict legislation, in a marginal climate and

Dallimore, published by Fairlight Books,

choosing.

britain

focusing on quality, domestic winemakers are free to follow paths of their own

With career winemakers like Emma

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 66

is out on June 23. www.fairlightbooks.co.uk/vineyards-ofFollow Ed Dallimore: @59Vines

An obsession with terroir pays off for Digby Clearly destined for greatness from the

which is brought into reality by consultant

helping to cement the winery’s reputation

late, great Steven Spurrier.

start, every year all four of Digby’s wines

rake in medals, awards, and accolades, as one of England’s very finest sparkling producers.

In 2021 alone, Digby took trophies for

igby Fine English, the innovative, terroir-obsessed blending house in Arundel, is quite literally the gold

standard for English sparkling wine.

Digby’s first ever wine, the 2009 Vintage

Brut, was presented with the gong “Best-

in-Class English Vintage Brut” and “World Champion England” along with a Gold medal at the world’s most prestigious sparkling

wine competition, The Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships, in 2014. The following vintage, 2010, won the “Best-in-Class” trophy again on release

at CSWWC in 2019, and pluckily beat Dom Pérignon 2009 and Krug Grande Cuvée in a renowned blind tasting at 67 Pall Mall.

best Sparkling Rosé at both WineGB and

the Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships, along with the top spot at

Sommelier Collective’s blind panel tasting

on English sparkling. Over the past three

years, it has won no fewer than five trophies, seven gold medals, and a platinum medal.

The key to this quality is, without a doubt,

the vineyards. From the outset, Digby focused on securing the best fruit from

plots across the south of England, rather than the vineyards it could buy.

A special balance of chalk, greensand,

and clay sites across Dorset, Sussex, Hampshire and Kent, are drawn out with

low-intervention winemaking, low dosage, and long lees-ageing. Head blender and CEO Trevor Clough (pictured) guides the style,

winemaker Dermot Sugrue - described as “the best winemaker in England” by the Clearly,

Digby’s

approach

been

the next step in ensuring that this continues by purchasing its top Pinot Noir vineyard,

Hilden in Kent. In the shape of a bowl on two clay slopes, its microclimate produces Pinot

with firm tannins, long ageing capacity,

and a unique savoury character alongside the rich fruit. These vines have been instrumental in building Digby’s reputation for quality, and now they lie at the heart of Digby’s future progress.

Digby plans to continue winning awards

and topping charts for many years to

come. To ensure that this is possible, the

winery is built on a deep commitment to sustainability. Having scrutinised every part of production from grape to glass, from January 2020 every bottle of Digby has net zero carbon emissions.

Digby Fine English is distributed by Armit Wines. Email trade@armitwines.co.uk or call 020 7908 0600. Sample available on request Sponsored feature

has

immensely successful, and it has now taken

ENGLISH WINE

The investors behind the labels

The Ysios winery in Laguardia

Vineyards at Bolney

Henkell-Freixenet Henkell-Freixenet is a hugely important player in global sparkling wine. As well

as the eponymous Cava brand being one

As another leading international sparkling wine producer makes a major investment in English wine, David Williams profiles a dozen of the most notable investors in the burgeoning industry so far

network, which includes UK on-trade

supplier Jascots, and the retailer Slurp. Vranken Pommery

of the historic big two of the Spanish fizz

In 2018 Vranken Pommery became the

portfolio also takes in Champagne Alfred

of the debut vintage of Louis Pommery,

category, and Henkell occupying a similar position in German Sekt, the company

Gratien, Loire Crémant producer Gratien & Meyer, California fizz producer Gloria Ferrer and Mionetto Prosecco, among a host of others.

Its addition, via its UK and Ireland arm

Copestick Murray, of Sussex’s Bolney

Estate, for an undisclosed fee earlier this year, therefore represents another step-

change for the English wine scene. Bolney,

first Champagne house to release an

English sparkling wine with the launch the first fruits of a partnership with

Hampshire’s Hattingley Valley that started in 2014. Vranken Pommery has also

planted a 40ha vineyard in Hampshire, described, rather winningly, by the

corporate website as being “at the heart of Pinglestone in the south of Great Britain”. Taittinger

which had itself more than doubled its

Taittinger’s joint venture with UK agent

will now be able to take advantage of

grande marque the first Champagne house

vineyard holdings with the acquisition of neighbouring Pookchurch in 2019,

the company’s international distribution

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 68

Hatch Mansfield and a group of other

investor “friends” made the family-owned to plant a vineyard in the UK: some 20ha

of vines went in the ground at Domaine

Mark Dixon

planting has seen the total rise to 28.5ha,

serviced-office business IWG (originally

Evremond in the North Downs in Kent

Essex-born entrepreneur Mark Dixon made

with a modern winery and visitor centre

Regus), which now has more than 3,500

in 2017. Further Pinot and Chardonnay

on the way, and the first sparkling releases set to arrive in 2024.

Lord Michael Ashcroft The former Tory party deputy

chairman (right)

is rarely out of the political limelight, authoring or co-

authoring biographies

of Conservative politicians

such as David Cameron and, most recently,

Carrie Johnson, and commissioning widely quoted opinion polls.

Since 2013, when he acquired a

controlling stake in Gusbourne Estate from

the star Kent producer’s founder, the South African surgeon Andrew Weeber, Ashcroft has also been a powerful force in English wine. In November last year, Ashcroft,

his estimated £300m fortune from his sites in more than 100 countries.

He first branched out into wine with

Provence rosé producer, luxury hotel and restaurant Château Berne.

Vineyard Farms, his ambitious and

and the company snapped up the 7-acre

Henners Vineyard in Herstmonceux, East Sussex, in 2017. Over the past two years, Boutinot has stepped up investment significantly in the site, which was

established in 2007 by former Formula

One engineer Lawrence Warr, and sits just four miles from the coast. Eric Heerema

controversial project back home

Nyetimber was already firmly established

Kent, where, despite strong local

up the Sussex property for £7.4m in 2006,

in the UK, is largely centred on

the 485ha Luddesdown farm in

opposition, Dixon is hoping to build

a £30m, Foster & Partners-designed

Kentish Wine Vault winery, visitor centre

and restaurant.

The company also owns Sedlescombe in

Sussex, has vineyards in Essex, and says it

plans to invest £60m over the coming years as it looks to grow annual production to 5 million bottles of sparkling wine, many of which will use the charmat method. Boutinot

as England’s leading sparkling wine

producer by the time Heerema snapped

but there’s no doubting the Dutchman has taken things to another level. Plantings

have mushroomed from 16ha to 327ha across 11 vineyards in West Sussex,

Hampshire and Kent during his tenure,

The Marques de Riscal winery in Elciego with a slick sales and marketing operation

and gleaming new winery kit also taking

a significant chunk of the fortune he made from selling his stake in his shipping firm, Heerema Marine Contractors. Richard Balfour-Lynn

who currently has 68% of the AIM-listed

Boutinot’s vinous empire has long been

The man behind Kent’s Balfour Winery/

reduce Gusbourne’s debt and help fund its

partnerships in France, Italy and South

Warwick Balfour firm he founded in 1994,

business, underwrote a sale of 8 million new shares to raise more than £6m to expansion.

involved in making wine as well as

selling it, with vineyards and production

Africa. English wine was a logical next step

Hush Heath Estate made his millions, first as a property tycoon via the Marylebone and then in hotels with the Alternative

Patrick McGrath MW joins the harvest at Domaine Evremond

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 69

ENGLISH WINE former arable farm, with 93ha of the 242ha

some 50,000 visitors a year.

visitor centre.

Chapel Down has excelled at drawing high-

well as expanding sparkling production, a

Another émigré from the financial sector,

beer, spirits and one of the UK’s biggest

“London base” in Smithfields.

up its FMCG and food and drink divisions

Hotel Group. The wine business began

when Balfour-Lynn and wife Leslie began

planting the 400-acre farmland attached to the estate in 2002.

Recent investments have seen the launch

of a range of impressive still wines as

cellar door and a set of 10 affiliated pubs, including Balfour St Barts, the winery’s Mark and Sarah Driver

Mark and Sarah Driver both had long and

successful careers in finance before making the risky leap into wine with Rathfinny

Estate in Alfriston, East Sussex, Mark with a 25-year career as a hedge fund manager at the Horseman Global Fund, and Sarah

working as a City solicitor. Since 2010, the couple have invested some £10m of their

own money in acquiring and planting the

site now planted with 385,000 vines. Other expenses included a £4m winery and Ian Kellett

Ian Kellett was an analyst at investment

bank Dresdner Kleinwort Benson, heading before buying what is the UK’s longest

continually working vineyard, Hambledon, in Hampshire, in 1999.

Kellett has used all his financial acumen

to build the business from a slightly

threadbare four acres to its current more than 200 acres, raising money through share offers and crowd funding.

This has allowed the development of

a 1.8 million-bottle storage facility and a

thriving cellar-door operation welcoming

DATES FOR YOUR DIARY Thursday, 30 March, WineGB Travel Show – London Aimed primarily at travel trade, leisure and lifestyle press. A chance to meet representatives from some of the industry’s regional clusters and for independent merchants to discuss popular ideas like linking in with local cellar doors or organising visits. 2-5 June, Celebrate the Platinum Jubilee Promotional and media campaign to encourage everyone to raise a glass of English and Welsh wine for this most British of celebrations. 4-12 June, Welsh Wine Week Putting a spotlight on wines from Wales through promotions and vineyard events. 6-9 June, London Wine Fair WineGB will be exhibiting along with a range of producers from around the UK. 18-26 June, English Wine Week 2022 Continuing the celebrations in ‘sizzling June’ … our popular promotional campaign will focus this year on visiting vineyards, having a picnic, enjoying English wine in the great British outdoors. On Midsummer’s Day (24 June) we will be announcing the medal winners of this year’s WineGB Awards.

Lord Spencer and Nigel Wray profile investors to its ever-growing Kent-

based drinks business, which includes craft wine operations, which is based around

325ha of land across Kent, Sussex, Surrey and Essex.

Another round of fundraising via

crowdfunding site Seedr last summer

brought in some £6.8m, as the company looks to add another 60ha of vineyards and build a new winery to meet new

production targets, with big names upping their involvement including entrepreneur and former Saracens rugby club owner Nigel Wray, and the City investor and

former Tory party treasurer Lord Michael Spencer.

Some of this year’s key events for English and Welsh wines Celebrate the winners in the hottest competition in UK wines … WineGB Awards 2022 These national industry Awards will be judged in June, led by superstar judges Susie Barrie MW and Oz Clarke OBE. The medal results will be unveiled during English Wine Week, with the trophy winners announced at our industry Awards event on 15 July. We want to help you celebrate the wins on your shelves! Look out for promotional opportunities Monday, 18 July, One-day Wine School A day dedicated to exploring certain key areas of UK wines, aimed at the trade, to include presentations and tastings. Tuesday, 6 September, WineGB Trade & Press Tasting A must-attend event – the largest showcase for English and Welsh wines. Industry briefings, themed free pour tastings and a host of individual producer stands.

For more information, please visit www.winegb.co.uk

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 70

The Vindependents tasting takes place on March 21

MAKE A DATE

North South Wines Portfolio Tastings

Australia Trade Tasting

North South Wines hits the road and

160 producers, this tasting is designed

is heading to Bristol, London and

to demonstrate the quality and diversity

Manchester to showcase a selection of

of Australian wine with styles ranging

new producers, new ranges

from crisp sparkling wines and fresh

and premium focus ranges from within

whites to complex fortified wines and

the portfolio.

sparkling Shiraz.

To attend at any of the locations, email

events@northsouthwines.co.uk. Monday, March 28 Le Vignoble Fermentation Building Bristol BS1 6JQ Wednesday, March 30 The Ampersand Hotel 10 Harrington Road London SW7 3ER Tuesday, April 5 King Street Townhouse 10 Booth Street

Featuring more than 700 wines from

Guests will be able to taste more than 40

different grape varieties, from Aranel to

Assyrtiko, Sagrantino to Sangiovese, and Zibibbo to Zweigelt.

Highlights include some particularly age-

worthy wines from Pewsey Vale and Peter

Lehmann, iconic releases from Vasse Felix, Clonakilla, Henschke and Kooyong, and

old-vine stars from Torbreck, Tahbilk and Thistledown.

The line-up features sparkling wine

from Tasmania, Margaret River, Clare

Valley, Barossa Valley, Yarra Valley and Coonawarra.

Manchester M2 4AW

Vineyards of Hampshire Trade Tasting Taste your way through Hampshire’s wines from member vineyards including the newest addition to the portfolio, Pommery Pinglestone Estate. Latest vintages and new releases will be

on show from members including Black

Chalk, Hattingley Valley, and Jenkyn Place. Wednesday, April 6 67 Pall Mall London SW1Y 5ES

Vineyards in the Hunter Valley

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 71

This year’s tasting will also focus

strongly on new-to-market wines seeking distribution, with a bespoke area and

catalogue for 100 wines all eyeing up the UK as their next target market.

This new-to-market selection covers 23

regions in Australia, from Adelaide Hills to Yarra Valley, Hilltops to Hunter Valley. Wine Australia has declared 2021

as a “unicorn” vintage, after a season

characterised by near-perfect growing and ripening conditions across most states

and regions, leading to exceptional quality and good crop size. This is great news

for Australia after two successive small vintages.

The tasting will be split into two

sessions: 10am to 1.30pm and 2.30pm to

6pm. Places are limited. To register, email uk@wineaustralia.com. Thursday, April 7

The Royal Horticultural Halls Elverton Street London SW1P 2PB

SUPPLIER BULLETIN

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vintner systems The computer system for drinks trade wholesalers and importers 16 Station Road Chesham Bucks HP5 1DH sales@vintner.co.uk www.vintner.co.uk

Vintner Systems has been supplying specialist software solutions to the wine and spirit trade in the UK and Ireland for over 30 years. After 300 installations at a wide range of business types, we have developed the ultimate package to cover everything from stock control and accountancy to EPOS, customer reserves, brokering and en-primeur. Whether you are a specialist wine retailer, importer or fine wine investment company, our software will provide you with the means to drive your business forward.

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 72

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LOUIS LATOUR AGENCIES 12-14 Denman Street London W1D 7HJ

0207 409 7276 enquiries@louislatour.co.uk www.louislatour.co.uk

hatch mansfield

2015 new vintage of Wakefield’s top Shiraz and Cabernet The Pioneer and The Visionary were created to showcase Wakefield’s best Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, to demonstrate the unique terroir of their Clare Valley estate and the showcase the skill of chief winemaker Adam Eggins. The Pioneer Shiraz recognises the spirit of founder Bill Taylor who had the determination to do things differently and recognised the potential of Shiraz. The Visionary Cabernet Sauvignon speaks of Bill Taylor’s desire to craft wines that could stand alongside the world’s best and, in particular, the great wines of Bordeaux that inspired him to establish the family business. These wines are only made in vintages to be deemed exceptional in quality and made in extremely limited quantities. Christina Pickard’s reviews were recently published in Wine Enthusiast. The Visionary 2015, 94 points, Cellar Selection: “This wine offers a deep well of aromas from cassis and black cherry fruit to mint, tarragon, black olive and graphite. There’s a lift of acidity on the palate that’s almost unexpected alongside the plush fruit. The tannins are powerful and chiselled but well placed, ensuring a long life in the bottle, until 2035, at least.” The Pioneer 2015, 91 points: “This wine is currently in a quiet spot and needs either lengthy decanting or to be opened a day in advance of drinking. It’s only then that it feels cohesive, and the red fruit, floral and savoury spice and umami notes start to shine. It’s tightly structured, with fresh acidity and sinewy tannins.”

Esporão joins Hatch

New Bank House 1 Brockenhurst Road Ascot Berkshire SL5 9DL

We are excited to welcome Esporão to the Hatch Mansfield portfolio. Their Portuguese range includes wines from Herdade do Esporão from Alentejo, Quinta dos Murças from Douro and Quinta do Ameal from Vinho Verde.

01344 871800 info@hatch.co.uk

Esporão’s aim is to make the finest wines at nature’s pace, with a minimal impact on the environment. Today, all of their vineyards in Alentejo and Douro are certified organic, making them the biggest organic producers in Portugal.

www.hatchmansfield.com @hatchmansfield

Speak to your Hatch Mansfield account manager, or scan the QR code for more information and samples.

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liberty wines 020 7720 5350 order@libertywines.co.uk www.libertywines.co.uk @liberty_wines

Heralding the arrival of Spring with Galicia’s elegant whites The Spanish DOs of Rías Baixas, Valdeorras, Ribeiro and Ribeira Sacra have established

a reputation for crowd-pleasing whites from indigenous varieties. With a pronounced maritime influence, these distinctive wines are expressive of their cool Atlantic origins, displaying fresh aromatics, revitalising acidity and a saline edge, underscored by restrained use of oak, if any, and lees ageing.

Santiago Ruiz is based in O Rosal, the most southerly Rías Baixas sub-

zone – a warmer, drier site producing wines with aromatic richness and

characteristic wet-stone minerality. Wines labelled ‘O Rosal’ must include Loureira in the blend, distinguishing them from the region’s mainly 100%

Albariños. With a lovely flinty character and textural complexity, Rafael Palacios’s ‘Louro do Bolo’ is sourced from his small parcels of Godello in

the Val do Bibei in Valdeorras. Mostly planted on old terraces buttressed by stones, Rafael’s viticulture is low intervention to preserve these magnificent structures.

On the banks of the Miño river in Ribeiro, small family-run winery Alter preserves

the local winemaking tradition that dates to the 2nd century BC. A blend of Treixadura,

Godello and Loureira, their semi-aromatic Ribeiro Blanco has signature brisk acidity and a delightful savouriness. Javier Dominguez of Dominio do Bibei has worked tirelessly to

revive the historic Ribeira Sacra region, attracted by its old vines and untouched Jurassic landscape. His complex, precise ‘Lapola’ blends Godello with Albariño, Doña Blanca and Treixadura from vines between 14 and 100 years old.

richmond wine agencies The Links, Popham Close Hanworth Middlesex TW13 6JE 020 8744 5550 info@richmondwineagencies. com

@richmondwineag1

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hallgarten wines Mulberry House Parkland Square 750 Capability Green Luton LU1 3LU 01582 722 538 sales@hnwines.co.uk www.hnwines.co.uk @hnwines

cascara gourmet

NEW ARMENIAN WINE STORK 2020 KANGOUN

For enquiries on stock available in the UK: 0777 570 6328 info@cascara-gourmet.com www.cascara-gourmet.com @stork_wines

This crisp dry white wine is made to delight the palate and stir the soul. It is an homage to storks who seasonally migrate to live and raise their young alongside the grapes of the Ararat Valley. For centuries, storks have used old vines to make their nests. Throughout the growing season, they take wing over the vineyard and complement an already majestic landscape. Aromatic and delicious STORK wine is made from Kangoun grapes grown in our single vineyards in the village of Taperakan, Ararat Province (800+ metres above sea level). From this frost-resistant variety we received mineral-driven, elegant, easy drinking young wine that showcases the characteristics of terroir and variety. Colour: light lemon with golden hue Nose: fresh aromas of citrus, apple blossom, and melon Palate: delicate, mineral-driven with refreshing acidity Pairing: ideal to be enjoyed on its own as an appetizer or pair with seafood, pastas with mushrooms or creamy sauces, poultry and sushi rolls.

Style: White Dry Vintage: 2020 Grape Variety: Kangoun 100% ABV: 12.5%

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Fells Fells House, Station Road Kings Langley WD4 8LH 01442 870 900 For more details about these wines and other wines from our awardwinning portfolio from some of the world’s leading wine producing families contact: info@fells.co.uk

www.fells.co.uk

@FellsWine je_fells

top selection 23 Cellini Street London SW8 2LF www.topselection.co.uk info@topselection.co.uk Contact: Alastair Moss Telephone: 020 3958 0744 @topselectionwines @tswine

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 76

mentzendorff The Woolyard 52 Bermondsey Street London SE1 3UD

NEW AIX ROSÉ

2021 VINTAGE

AIX Rosé has become a benchmark for Provence Rosé. Its suberb location with cool nights, hot days and regular Mistral winds provide the perfect conditions for growing Grenache, Syrah & Cinsault.

The 2021 vintage is driven by well-integrated acidity and minerality, leading to a long and complex finish. It’s a classic wine that balances the vintage characteristics along with the estate’s terroir and well-loved house style.

020 7840 3600 info@mentzendorff.co.uk www.mentzendorff.co.uk

For more information, please contact your Mentzendorff Account Manager

AWIN BARRATT SIEGEL WINE AGENCIES 28 Recreation Ground Road Stamford Lincolnshire PE9 1EW 01780 755810 orders@abs.wine www.abs.wine

@ABSWines

NE W WI NERI ES TO ABS

F L A V IA W IN E S

CORRYTON BURGE

M ARS A L A & ET N A

BA RO SSA VA L L EY & EDEN VA L LE Y

It has taken us a while to jump into the world of natural wine, making sure that we found the correct partner and style that fits the image of the families we represent. The Rallo family from Marsala, have ticked all the boxes for which we were looking. Fourth generation, Flavia and Giacomo have carved a niche for themselves producing an incredibly well packaged, sublime expression of Marsala and Etna; we can’t wait for you to try the FLAVIA range.

With the history of ABS very much rooted in Australia, friends from downunder are plentiful. After chatting with Grant Burge about his family’s reinvigorated brand, named after the original farm homestead the opportunity to re-launch Burge-made wines in the UK was too good to ignore. The Corryton Burge range we will be holding in stock, spans both South and South Eastern Australia, at a full spectrum of prices.

For more information contact your Account Manager or email us at orders@abs.wine

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BERKMANN wine cellars

Since 1889, Bodegas Valdemar has stayed true to its philosophy of producing wines exclusively from its own vineyards, dedicating time and effort to caring for its vines and recovering grape varieties native to La Rioja.

104d St John Street London EC1M 4EH 020 7609 4711

AWARDED 93 POINTS These years of hard work culminated in stellar reviews for the wines in Tim Atkin’s newly-released 2022 Rioja Report. He praises the quality of the latest vintage of Bodegas Valdemar Conde Valdemar 2015 Reserva, saying:

indies@berkmann.co.uk www.berkmann.co.uk

“Bodegas Valdemar source this impressive Reserva from their own vines in the eastern part of the Rioja Alavesa, marrying Tempranillo with 20% Graciano, Garnacha and Maturana Tinta. Smooth, textured, scented and appealing, with good freshness for the vintage, red berry fruit and a subtle balsamic twist.”

@berkmannwine @berkmann_wine

To find out more about Conde Valdemar or to purchase, contact your Berkmann Wine Cellars account manager or email info@berkmann.co.uk

buckingham schenk Unit 5, The E Centre Easthampstead Road Bracknell RG12 1NF

NEW 2022 WINE LIST We’re delighted to announce the launch of our 2022 wine list. The list is aimed at Independent merchants and the on trade. Once again, we’ve worked particularly hard to find new wines to complement our portfolio. Please contact our on trade team at sales@buckingham-schenk.co.uk to receive your copy.

01753 521336

atta

Zan Marco

ITALY

info@buckingham-schenk.co.uk www.buckingham-schenk.co.uk

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Bulldog es French f win re Che Signatu Auriol aines Dom

walker & Wodehouse 109a Regents Park Road London NW1 8UR 0207 449 1665 orders@walkerwodehousewines.com www.walkerwodehousewines.com

@WalkerWodehouse

Kumusha Wines joins Walker & Wodehouse South African wine brand Kumusha Wines has joined the Walker & Wodehouse portfolio. Founded by Tinashe Nyumudoka in 2017, this is the first time the wines will be available in the UK. Tinashe was part of the first wine team from Zimbabwe which competed in the 2017 and 2018 World Blind Tasting Championships. The story of Team Zim was documented in the documentary film Blind Ambition. Kumasha, means “your roots” in Tinashe’s native Shona, and the brand is a homage to his heritage, Zimbabwe and his story. The label is inspired by a photo of Tinashe in Nyanga, Zimbabwe, that features as the end credits in Blind Ambition. The grapes come from three regions in the Western Cape: Breedeklood, Swartland, and Elim. With minimal intervention and natural fermentation, Tinashe wants the wines to be representative of the regions where the grapes are produced. The range of wines includes Breedekloof Chenin Blanc, Sondagskloof Sauvignon Blanc, Flame Lily Slanghoek White Blend, Western Cape Cabernet Sauvignon, Slanghoek Cabernet Sauvignon Cinsault and a Hurudza Stellenbosch Red Blend (Bordeaux blend). For more information, please contact your account manager.

Famille Helfrich Wines 1, rue Division Leclerc, 67290 Petersbach, France chris.davies@lgcf.fr 07789 008540 @FamilleHelfrich

Our property Castillo de Aresan, situated in the heart of La Mancha • Vineyards have been certified vegan and organic since 2018 • 200ha of IGP Vino de la Tierra de Castilla, with

They’re all smiles to your face …

vines at an altitude of 750 metres, giving the wines freshness and vitality

• Exclusive range of unique varietals which reveal the typicity of our vines, all bottled at the estate

THE WINE MERCHANT march 2022 79

The Wine Merchant issue 111

Articles inside

COMINGS AND GOINGS

shenfield wine company

english wines

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