ARGENTINA’S LEADING ORGANIC WINE The Argento project was groundbreaking when it launched in 1999. Now, under new ownership, the range has been reimagined by a young team focused on organic wines with Fairtrade credentials, expressing the personality of ever-smaller parcels of land. Feature produced in association with Bodega Argento
A
generation ago, Argento launched in the UK with the aim of showing consumers the elegant, fruit-driven wines that were emerging from Argentina. The brand helped establish the country as a serious international player, and many of today’s Argentine success stories owe a debt of gratitude to Argento’s trailblazing work. Fast forward to 2022 and Argento has morphed, under new ownership, from a mainstream grocery label to Argentina’s leading organic wine producer, with Fairtrade accreditation in all its vineyards and a commitment to sustainable practices. These are wines channelled, via Walker & Wodehouse, at the independent trade. Chief winemaker Juan Pablo Murgia presented a selection of his range – not all currently available in the UK – to a group of indies at a tasting and lunch event organised in partnership with The Wine Merchant. “After 20 years, the project really changed,” says Murgia. “Now we are talking about a complete portfolio with different levels, starting at whites in the mid-tier all the way up to single-terroir icon wines. So it’s a completely new story. “To achieve that we have gone through a lot, including the development of five vineyards. It’s not only about the wines, it’s about the philosophy.”
Esquinas de Argento Organic Pinot Grigio 2021, Lujan de Cuyo, RRP £11
Pinot Grigio is
something of a blank canvas and Murgia was determined to create a wine with genuine personality. “Argento is the largest Pinot Grigio producer in Argentina right now,” Murgia says. “But we didn’t have an organic Pinot Grigio, so we decided to develop our own vineyard in 2015. We planted 25ha and in 2021 we could certify it as organic. “The results are very different from the conventional Pinot Grigio. It’s from a warm place – the lower-altitude vineyard helps Pinot Grigio develop fruity and tropical notes as well as good acidity.” Zoran Ristanovic of City Wine Collection in Richmond, west London, would prefer the wine in a green bottle, but was impressed by the contents. “It’s exceptional within the concept of what it is,” he says. “It’s a wine that brings a smile to your face straight away. It’s a perfect glass of wine. What more do you want from an aperitif wine when the sun is shining?”
Artesano de Argento Organic Fairtrade White Malbec, Lujan de Cuyo (Agrelo), RRP £9-£10
The largest organic vineyard in Argentina provides the fruit for this intriguing white Malbec. “We have 230ha divided into 75 blocks and there are different textures of soil,” explains Murgia. “This vineyard is almost at the foot of the Andes at 1,015m above sea level and it has a very strong influence from the Andes. “This wine is from the lower part of the vineyard where the vines have more vigour and production, and we found that it was perfect to make rosé and white Malbec.” The fruit is picked when acidity is still
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high and pressed carefully to avoid colour extraction. “It’s an interesting wine with a lot of character,” says Riaz Syed of Stonewines in Barnet. “The possibility for marketing white Malbec is definitely there. This could really come into its own with food.”
Argento Organic Fairtrade Rosé 2021, Lujan de Cuyo, RRP £11.50
The tasting showcased the versatility of Malbec and this beautifully balanced rosé testifies to its versatility, in the right hands. With its intense red berry aromas and cherry notes on the palate, it’s not lacking the fruitiness that many consumers enjoy, but there’s a lively, fresh acidity too.
Argento Estate Reserve Organic Fairtrade Malbec 2020, Lujan de Cuyo (Agrelo), RRP £12.80
Forensic analysis of the Agrelo soil identified the profound difference that exists between blocks. “In the lower part we have soils that are dominated by clay and lime and more organic materials,” says Murgia. “The rootstock we select for each block is adapted to a particular type of soil. “When you start to go up you find all the alluvial influence; some of the rocks have calcium carbonate, which has an effect on the wine’s profile.” This wine comes from the middle section of the vineyard, and has more defined tannins and a more red-fruit profile than you’d find further down.
Argento Estate Reserve Organic Fairtrade Cabernet Franc 2020, Lujan de Cuyo (Agrelo), RRP £12.80
“Mendoza is a beautiful place for Cabernet Franc and for me Agrelo is one of the top
