Lebanon plays to its strengths French traditions, small-scale production, altitude and diversity are four of the advantages enjoyed by Lebanese winemakers. Our recent online tasting of Chateau Ksara wines helped prove the point
T
here are four elements that make
Lebanese wine stand out, according to Michael Karam, the wine writer
and Lebanon expert.
First, it’s relatively small, in the grand
scheme of things; second, it has an affinity with France, the most celebrated of
winemaking nations; third, its vineyards
are, in most cases, at high altitude, making for fresher more elegant wines; and
last, it’s diverse, with 32 grape varieties currently cultivated, and more coming through.
“If the Lebanese can’t claim to be the
first people to make wine, we can definitely claim to be the first wine merchants,” Karam told a Zoom tasting for Wine
Merchant readers of wines from Château Ksara in the Bekaa Valley.
“Between 2000 BC and 300 BC, at the
height of the Phoenician trading empire,
the culture of wine was spread to the then known world.
“We only make 10 million bottles a year,
which is a microscopic amount compared
to the giants of Spain, Italy and France. We
Rhône varieties comprise “the first team”
Sauvignon Blanc, Clairette, and Muscat.
becoming more prevalent in whites.
heart and body,” says export director Elie
in red varieties, he adds, with indigenous varieties including Merwah and Obaideh Ksara co-owner George Sara adds
“identity” to Karam’s list of Lebanon’s USPs. He describes the French varieties imported from Algeria by Jesuit winemakers in the 19th century as the country’s “adoptive
children” which, together with Lebanon’s indigenous varieties, make up a palate of “heritage grapes”.
Ksara has taken inspiration from further
afield. “I don’t think people were interested in Greek wine until Assyrtiko came out,”
says Sara. “People could say the name and it was an international style that people wanted. That inspired us to dig into our archives and give ourselves an identity through our indigenous grapes.”
F
irst up in the tasting is Blanc de
l’Observatorie 2020 (RRP £11-
£12), a blend of 40% Obaideh, with
like that. We think small is beautiful.”
“Muscat gives the freshness in the wine
and Clairette and Obaideh present the Maamari.
The second white was the single varietal
Merwah 2020 (RRP £13-£15), made with
organically-grown grapes from 60-year-old vines at a height of 1,650 metres.
“Merwah is always the last variety
harvested because it is grown at such high altitude,” says Maamari. “It has a lot of
mineral character because the soil has a lot of stones.
“We used to think Mehwah was related
to Sémillon or Sauvignon Blanc but it has
been DNA-tested and we found there is no
connection. It’s native to Lebanon and gives the best expression of Lebanese terroir.” Sara adds: “After many years of
experimenting we decided Obaideh was more of a blender. We decided to make 100% Merwah because they are old
bush vines with a very low yield. We can
extract a lot of freshness but it also gives a nice fatty, oily structure that allows us to express it better as a single variety.”
Lebanon’s Francophone tradition was
Jim Dawson, of The Jolly Vintner Too in
established after the country was handed
Bournemouth, says: “I have not tried the
over to French control by the Allied victors
Merwah before and think it is superb –
after World War I.
different aromas and flavours.”
“The 50,000 civil servants and
Ashley Clarke, of The Secret Cellar in
soldiers who stayed until Lebanon
Kent, was also new to Merwah and found it
became independent in 1943 created
to have “a lovely freshness”.
Next up are two pinks: Gris de Gris
unprecedented demand for wine,” notes
2020 (RRP £12-£15), a blend of 60% old-
Karam.
“Our altitude is our ace card,” he adds.
vine Grenache Gris and 40% Carignan; and
Sunset Rosé 2020 (RRP £12-£13), a blend
“It’s what gives our wines their competitive edge.”
of 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Syrah.
Diversity plays out in how Bordeaux and
Most of the 20,000-bottle production
THE WINE MERCHANT june 2022 36
