The Wine Merchant issue 115

Page 17

deliver good acidity in warmer vintages, such as Tinto Cão and Sousão. Two red grapes that offer uniquely delicious drinking are Jaen (Spain’s Mencía) and Trincadeira. The latter stands out for its explosive aromas, bright acidity and not-too-punchy tannins. Just as in neighbouring Spain, Jaen is being turned into exquisitely aromatic wines with lovely dark hedgerow fruit. Increasingly confident and skilled winemaking is giving these indigenous varieties a strong voice and they offer refreshing and delicious alternatives to more mainstream choices.

Endless culinary combinations Mike Best of Boutinot is spot on when he says that much of the appeal of Portuguese wines is that they are “so easy to get on

with”. This fits in a country that is wellknown for its warmth and hospitality. Portugal is also renowned for its rich culinary culture and the wines fit neatly with modern tastes. Sardines are back on the sustainable list and adored – grilled – by the Portuguese. It would be a brave body that disagreed with Vinho Verde as an ideal accompaniment: about as deliciously refreshing as it gets. The perfect piri-piri sauce is open to debate. Chilli, paprika, garlic, brown sugar …. whatever the combination, a full-bodied Alvarinho will strike a joyful gastronomic chord. It is impossible to spend any time at all in Portugal and not bump into bacalhau, in some form or another, with its key ingredients of salt cod, eggs, potatoes and black olives. It’s tempting to go white, but you might find a glass of crunchy Trincadeira equally satisfying.

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Portugal’s sweeter wine offerings are not solely limited to port. A visit to the Península de Setúbal will uncover some truly magnificent fortified Moscatel wines. It’s important to note that Setúbal alone on the label means there’s less than 85% of Moscatel in the blend. Wines identified as Moscatel de Setúbal, or Moscatel Roxo, exceed that amount. A foodie pairing suggestion for the sweet-toothed is, of course, the scrumptious pastel de nata – custard tart to the Brits. Queijo da Serra da Estrela is a creamy sheep’s cheese, made in the mountainous region of the same name and another winner with a snifter of Moscatel. There has never been a better time to be selling Portuguese wines. The quality to be found at each price point is terrific and consumer interest is high. A rich diversity of styles and grapes, means Portugal has a wine for everyone.


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