DAVID PERRY

Irregular Thoughts

There’s definitely a place for new world wines, and it’s usually in the new world

tremendous but I doubt they drink much of it in Champagne.

Outside of mainland Europe producers are not restricted by regulations on varieties, regional quirks and limited yields – or quality control, as I like to call it. A winemaker in southern Australia can blend grapes grown in Tasmania with some from the Margaret River without the limitations of using only those grown in his own back yard for countless generations. (To be fair, they could do something similar in Europe, but tend not to).

My sister moved to New Zealand about 16 years ago. She often suggests that I should visit but it is never going to happen. My tolerance for flying is a maximum of three hours and I never have more than three days away from the shop.

“But,” says my sister, “the scenery is wonderful.” I live in Dorset. “Yes, but the coast is fantastic and we can go sea fishing.” I live in Dorset. I’ve been sea fishing. I caught a lot of fish using a special baiting system involving my pre-digested breakfast.

Not giving in, she then says: “And we have wine!” I am surrounded by wine from all over the world, mainly Europe, but some from further afield. She lives towards the top of the North Island. Without checking, I reckon that Marlborough is about as far from her home (and across a channel) as the Loire is from my home (and across a channel). There are vineyards closer to her just as there are vineyards closer to me. England makes wine. Europe makes an awful lot of wine. I’m not going to be attracted by 24 hours on an airplane with the bait of wine I can buy and drink in the UK at a better price.

I have a similar conversation every time someone from South Africa comes into the shop. The first thing they ask is whether we have any South African wines. We do, but not many. I can’t imagine visiting Cape Town, walking into a wine shop and, with my best English accent, asking if they have any wine from Dorset – then insisting they should.

If I ever visit South Africa (never going to happen either) I would drink South African wine. I would cavort in the vineyards, enjoy the sunshine and pour local wines down my neck with wild abandon. But I’m not in South Africa.

I never understand when people insist, here in the UK, near mainland Europe, that I should try a Bordeaux blend from somewhere thousands of miles away. The only reason I can see to drink a nonBordeaux, Bordeaux-like wine is because it is available where you live and you can’t get hold of any decent claret at a sensible price. If I was offered tickets to see the Strolling Bones at a similar price to seeing the Rolling Stones, the tribute act wouldn’t get a look-in. English sparkling wine is often

This means you can experience wines like no other. I get that. But here in north Dorset we don’t see that many bearded young men with top-knots, and the coffee shops sell “coffee”. There aren’t that many people looking for zero-sulphur Zibibbo/ Colombard hazy pet nat. We have tried, but there are only so many dusty bottles of “buyers’ folly” that you can drink yourself.

We are not a supermarket selling bulk wine on price, so our new world selection is pretty tight. For me the new world should complement, rather than compete with, the more local classics, although I must admit to a fondness for a delightfully light and pretty unoaked Cabernet Franc from New York State (thanks, Daniel Lambert Wines).

You can’t fob someone off with Puglian Primitivo if they want a big Zin, even if you can persuade them that it’s the same variety ... probably. Equally, if they want something that doesn’t clash with their curry, Carmènere (the grape now insignificant in Bordeaux) is only really available unblended and in volume from Chile.

If you don’t want to take out a second mortgage for Burgundy and are suspicious of Spätburgunder, there are some decent Pinot Noirs from Russian River, Otago and Niagara at slightly more sensible prices. If you want a gob-filling Shiraz, it’s probably going to be Australian. Northern Rhône is unlikely to float your boat even if money is no object and you are worried about diabetes. And then there is Pinotage. Does anyone buy Pinotage anymore?