London leaves a sour taste

Enthusiasm for wine events in the capital is on the wane. So what are the alternatives?

Clearly, there is a problem with trade tastings. Or with London. Or both. This year’s survey shows that enthusiasm for every type of trade event in the capital is melting – in some cases quite dramatically.

Just 8% of indies are “very keen” on attending generic tastings in London, down from 16% a year ago. The number expressing similar enthusiasm for singlesupplier events in the city is down from 22% to 14%. Even the proportion saying they are very keen on attending London tastings involving a group of like-minded suppliers has fallen, from 24% to 16%.

None of which necessarily means such tastings are doomed, or that they won’t see a turnaround in their fortunes if circumstances change. But independents have been expressing strident views about why they are slipping down the agenda.

“I think the problem with trade tastings now is the sheer cost of getting to London, especially when we are taking the team down,” says Phil Innes of Loki Wines in Birmingham.

“We have also experienced unreliable train services over the past year, which has also hindered travel.

“Unfortunately, these days the London Wine Fair doesn’t achieve what it used to.

“I find regional tastings are generally not as good as London tastings as the number of products on show tends to be limited. I think there needs to be a big rethink regarding how tastings are working, as it is getting more difficult for regional merchants to source wines.”

Ray Nicholls of Ripponden Wine Co in North Yorkshire is blunt. “I make an absolute point of not attending any tastings in London,” he says. “The cost involved, coupled with the loss of two days’ trade, makes these completely out of the question. I have never, and will never, attend a London tasting.”

Sarah Truman of Sarah’s Wines is based in Battle, East Sussex. London isn’t so far away, but getting there is still a stretch. “With no employees, a trade tasting means that my shop is closed for the day,” she says. “Although I love tasting wines, meeting others in the industry and discovering new wines for the shop, I just cannot justify the closure and the expense of a journey into London.”

Bob McDonald of Salut Wines in Manchester says it’s not just the time and expense of getting to London that are considerations. “Tastings are not always beneficial,” he says. “For example, you may go to a portfolio tasting of a few hundred wines but only a handful are relevant to your business. We find account managers coming to us with a much more focused selection is far more beneficial.”

Andrew Kinnersley of The Grape & The Good in Wells, Somerset, says: “I’ve really slimmed down the number of London tastings I go to. If the supplier in question is supportive throughout the year, then I’ll make an effort. But to not visit or offer any support, and then expect me to make the trip to London with the expense involved, appeals less each year.”

So if London tastings are losing their lustre, how do merchants prefer to taste and discover wines?

“Our preference is always to taste in the shop, with staff, and with our customers,” says Anthony Borges of The Wine Centre in Great Horkesley. “It is no coincidence

How enthusiastic are you about various types of tastings?

that we sell most wine from those suppliers who are most generous with samples. Single-supplier tastings in London can be useful, but we limit these to three of us, three times a year, because it’s time away from the shop.”

George Unwin of Baythorne Wines in Essex says: “Given the relatively small size of our company, and our location some distance from major transport links, it is quite an undertaking getting to trade tastings, both in terms of time and cost.

“Almost all our buying decisions are made at our office, with samples provided by suppliers.”

Andrea Viera runs Last Drop Wines in west London. For her, “time is of the essence” and she’s looking for the most efficient way of exploring new wines. “I think there is a greater chance of the wine getting stocked if the sales rep thinks carefully, selects a few wines and sends or brings them in,” she says.

Fewer indies are running Zoom tastings for their own customers, but around four in 10 respondents say they remain keen on attending such events themselves, involving individual producers.

“Even after lockdown, the online Zoom tastings are very successful,” says Joe Hukin of Penistone Wine Cellars. “I can manage my business while tasting a range of different wines.”

Amid the negativity, there remains an affection for old-school tastings that might not be revealed by a first glance at the data.

More than half of independents remain “very keen” or “fairly keen” on single or multi-supplier tastings in London (even if enthusiasm for tastings outside the capital registers slightly higher).

Generic tastings retain the support of 50% of indies, with a further 31% expressing ambivalence – suggesting they could be tempted to attend if the offer is compelling enough.

Mark Stephenson of Grape & Grain in Morpeth is one of several merchants who would probably attend more events if travel was less problematic. He says: “I am delighted to see the return of our suppliers’ tastings post-Covid. Our main issue has been getting to them! Every time you book a train it is a gamble with the ongoing rail strikes.

“Travel across country to places like Manchester is still an arduous trip from here and involves a very early alarm or an overnight stay. Leeds and Edinburgh are a lot more accessible for us in the north east. The crazy thing is it is probably easier (and cheaper) to fly to southern based tastings in London and Bristol.”

Derek Crookes of Kernowine in Falmouth says: “I know some don’t agree with me, but I think in-person trade tastings are vital to my business.

“I regularly find new gems for the portfolio and it’s a great way to meet and stay in touch with suppliers and winemakers, especially for added-value items such as classes and ticketed tastings in our shop.”