A Setúbal scrapbook

The Setúbal Peninsula is one of Portugal’s most dynamic wine regions. Its hot, dry summers, refreshed by the cool Atlantic breeze, give rise to complex reds, racy whites and some unforgettable fortified wines. As producers in the region increasingly focus on their premium ranges, there’s never been a better time for independent merchants to take a closer look.

Two terroirs in one region

Situated just south east of Lisbon, the Setúbal Peninsula has two main landscapes. These are the mild, maritime-influenced mountainous west and the flatter, sandier and warmer eastern region.

The west is noted for its high-quality white wines and Moscatels, while the east is home to most of the region’s full-bodied reds.

Castelão, king of the reds

The most widely planted red variety is Castelão, which is relatively low in acidity but can make acclaimed single-varietal wines with red fruit characters, especially from older vines. Castelão styles can vary widely, depending on the winemaker’s personality. Some styles are muscular, others can be much more elegant. Many producers choose to blend Castelão with other red varieties grown in the region, such as Syrah and Alicante Bouschet, or perhaps even Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira or Aragonês.

Make friends with Fernão Pires

Fernão Pires accounts for just under 10% of all plantings and is Setúbal’s most important variety for white wines, which are typically refreshing, aromatic and a great match for the excellent local seafood. Arinto, Verdelho, Antão Vaz, Alvarinho and Chardonnay are also planted.

The famous fortifieds

The Setúbal DO dates back to 1908. It covers the same geographic area as the Palmela DO but is focused just on the region’s famous fortified wines, Moscatel de Setúbal. These wines must be made of at least 85% Moscatel de Setúbal (the local version of Muscat of Alexandria, which dominates plantings) or Moscatel Roxo de Setúbal (an early-ripening purple-hued Muscat with a distinctive perfume).

Know your GI from your DO

The Setúbal Península GI is a broad appellation that encompasses all of the wines produced in the region – red, white, rosé and sparkling. Since 1989, the Palmela DO has represented the upper tier of wine production in four northern districts (the Montijo, Palmela, Setúbal and Sesimbra local authorities). Reds labelled as Palmela must contain at least 67% Castelão.

The magic of Moscatel

Both styles of Moscatel in Setúbal are fortified with neutral grape spirit and left to macerate for more than six months, before ageing for at least 18 months, during which time the flavours are concentrated as evaporation occurs.

Young styles age for up to five years and emerge light and fresh, with floral and fruity notes that make them ideal as aperitifs. Classic styles age for more than five years and are usually unfiltered. These wines often have an intense aroma of nuts and notes of coffee, chocolate and cigar.

Producers think premium

The Setúbal Peninsula was once mainly associated with reliable, affordable wines that became popular choices in Portuguese supermarkets. But as more producers have focused on more premium wines, exports have started to grow, with the UK among the top three markets in terms of both value and volume.