The riches of Rueda

Verdejo is a variety that thrives in this unforgiving landscape, producing succulent but zesty wines that often have some hidden depths

Drive north west from Madrid for about an hour and you arrive in Rueda. Make the journey in the summer and you’ll be blasted by the heat as you step out of the car. Attempt it in the winter and you’ll feel the frost gnawing at your extremities.

These conditions – including the dramatic dip in summer night-time temperatures – suit Verdejo down to the ground. Once at risk of being forgotten in its native territory, the grape now accounts for more than 90% of production in the Rueda DO. Its ability to achieve juicy-fruit ripeness while retaining its crisp acidity has won it admirers everywhere.

The terrain here is sandy and stony; highly problematic for the phylloxera bug but perfect for vignerons, who know that their vines have to dig deep in search of water and minerals. Indeed minerality is a hallmark of Verdejo wines from Rueda, and it’s often described as a wet pebble sort of flavour, adding a subtle extra layer to the tropical and citrus characters found nearer the front of the palate.

These qualities make Rueda wines a dream to match with all sorts of cuisines. Sea food is perhaps the obvious choice, but any cheese or cream-infused dish is likely to be a superb match too, as well as summer salads and spicy foods. In Rueda itself, the wines are regularly enjoyed with chicken, turkey and pork (especially suckling pig). But even red meats like barbecued lamb are successful partners.

Rueda producers have created a style that has won international acclaim, and there could be a risk of complacency setting in. But the opposite has happened. There’s a restless energy in the region, meaning that winemakers are experimenting with new styles.

Sobre lías wines spend time on fine lees, adding a discernible creamy richness to the must as it ages. Barrel fermentation is also becoming more common, sometimes in tandem with stainless steel, as producers look to add extra complexity without sacrificing the zip they know consumers are looking for.

In 2019, Rueda launched its Gran Reserva classification, representing the pinnacle of quality in the region. Producers must adhere to exacting rules regarding yields and vines must be at least 30 years old. These wines, which are gradually enjoying more international distribution, are often great examples of how a region associated with wines that can be enjoyed immediately are also capable of ageing gracefully.