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Adega Belém: leaping into the UK

Frogs

Catarina Moreira was an evolutionary biologist studying the mating patterns of the Iberian tree frog when she met David Picard, an anthropologist. They have been together ever since and in 2013 they decided to go back to school to study oenology.

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And so their winemaking journey began, and in 2020 they made their first full vintage at their urban winery, a converted car garage, in the Belém district of Lisbon. Raymond Reynolds Ltd is excited to bring these amazing wines and personalities to the UK.

Beyond wine, family is everything. Their two daughter are involved wherever they can be – from crushing grapes to drawing the wine labels during lockdown. We mustn’t forget the family’s Portuguese Labrador, Lili, a keen member of the cellar team. She playfully drops balls in front of her favourite wine tanks, which helps with the selection that’s blended for the Lili Cellar Dog Selection Tinto. When asked what a Portuguese Labrador is, David explains that her mother was a Labrador, and met her father at the beach.

What started as a fun weekend winemaking course sparked a desire to learn more and to explore the idea of making wine. Both completed further and more comprehensive winemaking courses and Catarina worked several harvests in several locations, while David stayed in academia until they set up their winery in the city.

Most of their white grapes come from the University of Lisbon’s vineyards situated in the urban district of Ajuda. The red grapes come from two main sites. The first, on the edge of the city, is a cloister whose vineyards form part of the historic Carcavelos DOP in the foothills of the Sintra Mountains. The second site sits within the Alenquer DOP, about 30 minutes north east of Lisbon. The couple spend a lot of time in the vineyards and the grapes dictate the style, not the other way around.

Grapes (minimal sulphites for stabilising) and love: the ingredients list is very simple. The grapes are not certified organic or biodynamic, but the vineyards are managed with best practices. These exciting wines are all vegan-friendly as they don’t fine the wines and they only filter to remove coarse sediments. All wines are spontaneously fermented with carefully applied temperature control. The wines are handcrafted using winemaking know-how and curiosity, with a minimal intervention approach.

Sustainability is a core value. The winery uses wastewater filters and has its own wastewater treatment plant. Catarina and David use non-chemical hot steam technology as well as lightweight Bordeaux bottles with natural cork closures and recycled cardboard boxes for all their packaging. Their approach to winemaking, and deep care of their environmental impact, pair wonderfully with their charisma, personality and a quirky equation that has bought these wines to the UK.

The wines

Viosinho Pet Nat 2022 – RRP £32

A skin-contact Pet Nat bursting with crisp citrus and orchard fruits

Arinto 2021 – RRP £30

A refined Arinto with green fruits, vibrancy and texture from lees ageing

Lili Cellar Dog Selection Tinto 2020 –RRP £25

A playful wine with fresh red berries, crisp acidity and some chocolatey richness

Senhor Rita Reserva Tinto 2020 –RRP £34

A concentrated 100% Castelão with deep, dark fruits, vibrant freshness and classic sappiness

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Over the weekend, while eating an Amazing Lunchwich of Epoisses, Piper’s black pepper crisps, tomato and mayonnaise, a small wizard came into the shop. I recognised him by his serene, knowing otherworldliness and nylon cape. His mother encouraged him to straighten the selling tray that had been hung around his neck.

What have you there, Wizard? I asked the wizard.

It’s his last wand, his mother – who the wizard had bewizarded into being his mouthpiece – answered.

O, I said, my eyes glowing with desire, do you, Wizard, not have full function of your jaw, tongue and vocal cords?

The small wizard relented somewhat and replied, I can see now you are one that sees the subtleties between the real and unreal, unlike most of these fucking sheeple. He opened his small hand and gracefully indicated the customers deciding between the sub-£12 Malbecs.

Thanks, Wizard, I said, although watch your mouth, your mother’s right behind you browsing the maple, brownie and bacon gateau sours. The wizard rolled his eyes.

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