The Wine Merchant magazine issue 129

THE WINE MERCHANT. An independent magazine for independent retailers

Issue 129, October 2023

Dog of the month: Tina Macknade, Faversham

Cash-strapped consumers keep faith with merchants Hallgarten research of more than 1,000 customers shows relationships with independent wine shops remain solid

I

ndependents are doing the right things to maintain their market share in a cost-of-living crisis, according

to consumer research commissioned by Hallgarten & Novum Wines.

The supplier worked with market research consultancy KAM to interview 1,185 people who buy wines from the independent sector about their shopping habits.

Tom Bennett, Hallgarten’s customer marketing manager, says the research shows that indies are doing “a really good job” despite the economic challenges that they and their customers are facing.

Eight in 10 respondents say they are more conscious than they used to be about the value for money that their wine purchases represent.

The most popular reason given for buying from independents is to support a local business, followed by the desire for a personal treat, a belief that the store will provide better quality wines, and that the advice available will be good.

The most common reason for buying from independents is to support local business

Most consumers surveyed believe that indies offer good value for money, and just over half said they would be tempted

with three in 10 saying they pick up bottles

to spend more money at an independent

from Aldi or Lidl.

merchant if a loyalty scheme was in place.

The research also shines a light on

When asked how they prefer to see wines displayed in a shop, four in 10 say merchandising should be arranged by

the language of wine. Descriptors such

country and region of origin. The next most

exclusively on people who buy from indies,

as “full-bodied” and “smooth” resonate

popular option is by grape variety, and

about seven in 10 respondents say they

with far more consumers than words like

then by wine style.

also buy wine on visits to supermarkets,

“mineral”.

Although the research focuses

Continues page 2

NEWS

Inside this month 4 comings & Goings

Hallgarten research shines a light on what motivates indie customers

It’s all change at The Old Bridge in Huntingdon

From page 1

“Secondly, knowing your customers and their tastes: personal recommendations

8 david PERRY

When asked what influences their wine

Travel broadens the mind, and your wine range

10 tried & TESTED People risked injury making these wines, so let’s appreciate them

17 the burning question How big a problem is shoplifting, and how do you stop it?

choices, the most popular reply is the

build with individuals is invaluable and

taste description either on the shelf or the

rewarding – sometimes considered the

bottle, followed by the awards the wine

old-fashioned stuff in a modern world.

has won.

Perhaps surprisingly, the wine’s

skills on the job at Grape to Grain

44 field trip to essex We explore the fabled Crouch Valley with Lyme Bay Winery

48 focus on fortified wine The duty hike is a pain, but it’s still an attractive category for indies

58 make a date Some November trade events to attend, if you can dodge Covid

making them affordable and accessible.

These build trust and loyalty. People try

lot further down the list.

new styles, learn about wine, de-risk their

Hallgarten carried out the research after consulting with many of its independent Joseph Byrne, of D Byrne & Co in

Tom Sneesby learned his retail

“Finally, hosting loads of events and

sustainable or organic credentials come a

customers.

36 merchant profile

are so important and the relationships you

purchases and have an awesome night out.”

Hallgarten head of buying Steve Daniel says: “We believe now is a hugely

Clitheroe, says: “Whilst many customers

important time to support our indie

are naturally drawn to appealing wine

retail customers and the wider trade.

labels, we find taste descriptions are a

High inflation, increased duty and rising

great way to communicate key selling

interest rates are all putting pressure on

points about the wines and help guide our

the market, leaving consumers with less

customers.

disposable income to spend on wine.

“We always aim to build a good

“Understanding what is influencing

relationship with our customers, so they

consumer behaviour is key to this support,

often follow our staff recommendations.

allowing us to best cater for the needs

It’s very helpful to see this report

of our customers. This can be as simple

reinforces our key selling principles and

as having wines open to taste through

confirms that consumers prefer to be

to promotions on premium bottles to

guided in this manner.”

encourage trade-ups.

Alastair Wighton, owner of Alteus Wines

“It’s clear that consumers value the

in Crowborough, East Sussex, says: “For

experience of visiting specialist retailers

us, it’s about being better than ever at our

and these findings offer great insights

core principles. Firstly, striving to ensure

which can easily be acted upon to improve

Reflecting on 20 years of Reserve

every style we stock is always about the

this experience.”

Wines, and no skiing injuries

best quality wine we can source at each

71 Q&A: Kate Goodman

price point, in our opinion.

• Three-page report starts on page 31

THE WINE MERCHANT MAGAZINE winemerchantmag.com 01323 871836 Twitter: @WineMerchantMag Editor and Publisher: Graham Holter graham@winemerchantmag.com Assistant Editor: Claire Harries claire@winemerchantmag.com Advertising: Sarah Hunnisett sarah@winemerchantmag.com Accounts: Naomi Young naomi@winemerchantmag.com The Wine Merchant is circulated to the owners of the UK’s 1,019 specialist independent wine shops.

Printed in Sussex by East Print. © Graham Holter Ltd 2023 Registered in England: No 6441762 VAT 943 8771 82

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 2

New direction for The Old Bridge

Today, Chestnut has a collection of 17 high-end “pubs with rooms,” and with that comes a valuable database of customers, most of whom have an interest in wine.

The Old Bridge Hotel and its wine shop

Despite the size of the group, all the

has been bought by hospitality company

destinations are distinctly different and

Chestnut.

retain their individuality.

John Hoskins MW and his wife Julia

“We veer violently away from being a

bought the inn, on the banks of the river

chain,” says Turner. “We actively encourage

Ouse in Huntingdon, back in 1994 and

local produce and creativity amongst our

added the iconic wine shop a decade later.

chefs. It’s difficult enough recruiting chefs, so to recruit chefs and tell them what to

Chestnut also recently bought the

cook is not a great strategy for us.”

wholesaler Peter Graham Wines and says the acquisition of Old Bridge will give it the

Turner lists a number of reasons for

opportunity to develop the wine side of its

buying Peter Graham Wines. “We suddenly

business, with a view to expand the retail

Chestnut boss Philip Turner

element beyond its current East Anglian

element of business risk,” he says. “In other words, we were a big customer of theirs,

heartland.

Philip Turner, founder and managing

got to the stage whereby there was a new

Turner explains that Peter Graham

and if something went wrong in their

director of Chestnut, is immensely mindful

Wines was established by his sister, Louisa

business that would have an impact on us,

of the shoes he has to fill at The Old Bridge.

Turner, and has been aligned with Chestnut

and I didn’t really like that.

“I’ve always had a huge respect for what

since the latter’s inception 10 years ago,

“Secondly, we have a database of

John and Julia built,” he says.

when he looked to her for advice with his

nearly 200,000 people now across our

business plan.

business who know us for food, wine and

“When somebody has run a business with as much attention to detail and

At home with bronchitis, Turner heard

accommodation. Peter Graham Wines has

diligence as Julia and John have, legacy

that his local pub was for sale. “I was bored

no retail customers, and as we’ve got a lot

is incredibly important, and respecting

and armed with a laptop, so I sort of wrote

of data on what people drink, we thought

that legacy is something that we take very

a financial plan for what a pub could look

we should be using that. So it’s a huge

seriously.

like,” he says.

opportunity to sell wine.”

“The connecting factor is Nick Adams

With a background in financial services,

As a wholesaler, Peter Graham Wines

MW who taught John through his Master of

that part was easy, but he called his sister

also has a well-oiled logistics machine,

Wine. Nick is also a consultant MW to Peter

for advice on margins and naturally, as it

something that Turner, with his growing

Graham Wines and he lives in Huntingdon.

all took off, Peter Graham Wines became

portfolio, identifies as key.

Nick has been able to help Old Bridge

the sole supplier of wine to the rapidly

Wines go through the transition.”

expanding business.

“We’ve been able to secure our supply chain, monetise our database, and get hold of a logistics business, which is part of our future plan,” he says. “My sister built that business over 25 years, and she wants to go do something different in her life now, and I felt good that I was able to give her that opportunity.”

Will we see further bricks-and-mortar retail growth from Chestnut? “We now have a retail presence at The Old Bridge and, while Huntingdon will remain the central operation for that, we’ve got a couple of other opportunities for pop-up retail spaces within our existing portfolio,” says Turner.

John Hoskins MW at the wine shop in The Old Bridge

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 4

Very happy to be smaller but busier Dronfield Wine World relocated to new premises last month.

Since establishing the Derbyshire business in 2016, Jane Taylor had been operating from a unit which she admits had always struggled in terms of footfall.

The new site is located “just a two-minute walk” from the original shop in what promises to be a busier spot.

“It’s very, very pretty here,” says Taylor.

“It’s an old converted foundry; I think it was built in the 1700s. There are two very old stone buildings and they’ve been joined by a glass atrium, so we’re in a mini shopping centre.

“There’s a Prosecco bar, café, a florist, hair salon, a couple of clothes shops, an estate agent and some financial people, so it’s quite varied and I’m feeling very positive about it.

“It’s slightly smaller than we thought, so we will have to be a bit more clever

It’s been a lengthy project, almost two years, but the doors to Vinotopia’s Wine Barn in Nailsworth, Gloucestershire, are finally open. Phase two, including the opening of the food hall, will follow later this autumn.

about how we store stuff, and we have a local warehouse anyway. But the footfall is

Novel founders hand over reins

enhanced focus on the on-trade with a

hamper side to the business, but that tends

It’s all change at Novel Wines in Bath,

championing the unusual and eclectic for

to be just at Christmas,” she says. “So I

with founders Ben Franks and Gyorgy

years to come.”

want to build up the gift side of things, just

Zsiga both leaving the business.

going to make a massive difference.”

Taylor hopes to develop her range of gift items such as posh chocolates and crackers. “We’ve built up quite a good

to remind people that we’re here.”

Since 2016, Novel has built a reputation

“We will move forward with an directly-sourced, multinational list and a new, highly motivated team. We’ll be

Zsiga departed last month, while Franks will continue in his role as CEO until

for its wines from Central and Eastern

January next year when he takes a full-time

Europe and this theme will continue under

role at the Canned Wine Co, in which he

the leadership of new MD Gary Shaw.

invested and joined as a director back in

Previously Novel’s sales and marketing manager, Shaw says he is “looking forward

2020. This will also allow Franks to apply to study for the MW qualification.

to bringing new skills from outside the industry and building on the success that

• After 12 years of working at Theatre

Ben and Gyorgy have had over the last

of Wine, Jason Millar has left the London

seven years”.

independent. Since 2018 Millar has held the

He adds: “It’s an exciting time to take on

Dronfield Wine World owner Jane Taylor

position of company director, but he says

the business with its strong track record

“the time is right to move on and do my own

and deep connections into the flourishing

thing”. He will reportedly focus on retail

Central and Eastern European wine region.

consultancy.

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 5

Marta makes a mark in retail Marta Vine, the specialist Portuguese importer, is about to add a retail element to its business. Owners Marta Mateus and Kevin Bowers intend to open VinedMe in Walsingham, north Norfolk.

“We fell in love with north Norfolk and were always thinking it would be an option to live in this part of the country,” says Mateus (pictured below).

“We found this property, which has plenty of space for us to live, for us to have our Marta Vine offices, and then to do something else.”

The building allows for a separate retail unit, which the couple hope will be open by the end of this month.

Dan Keeling (left) and Mark Andrew at the new Noble Rot shop

“We have space to seat about 30 people and a lovely outdoor area as well,” says

Rot squad set up shop in Hackney

Hull indie hunts for new owner

strong on regional products, so we’ll have

Noble Rot, the business owned by Mark

Sutherland’s Wee Bottle Shop in Hull

local wines and some beers from local

Andrew and Dan Keeling, is set to open

is up for sale. Owner Mark Bjornson-

breweries, as well as rums and gins that

its second wine shop. It’s two years

Sutherland has assured his customers

are strong in the area.”

since the pair launched Shrine to the

on social media that all events and

Mateus says it will be useful to have a

Vine on Lamb’s Conduit Street, London,

tastings will continue as normal while

base in the UK to host visiting winemakers.

and this month will see the brand move

he waits for a buyer.

“The idea is to invite our clients to come

eastwards in the capital.

Mateus. “There is lots of space to play with.

Maybe about two-thirds of the wines in the shop will be ours and the rest we will source from elsewhere. We want to be

to us,” she explains. “Norfolk feels like a

The new shop will be on Broadway

His Facebook message reads: “As my time in Hull is coming to an end I have

holiday area within the UK and we will do

Market in Hackney in the premises

made the difficult decision to sell. We have

team weekends with winemakers who we

previously belonging to Noble Fine Liquor,

built a beautiful community of loyal wine

work with and invite clients to come to us.

part of the We are Noble group, which also

tasters, craft beer drinkers and whisky

owned P Franco.

connoisseurs. We have worked tirelessly

“The more we

Shrine to the Vine reports that, while the

over the past year to realise my dream and

with our clients,

range will be the same eclectic mix as the

bring something to the area that I felt was

the more they like

original shop, it may have more natural

missing. Luckily, enough of you agreed

the idea and the

wines.

to make us a profitable business within

speak about it

concept of coming

The expectation is that there will be

a year, no mean feat in the current times.

over to try wines,

more customers wanting to take advantage

We would love for someone to take over

having a weekend

of the nearby parks, so there will be more

our community bottle shop and continue

in Norfolk, but

fridges and alternative formats. The

building on what we have started.”

with a Portuguese

Hackney branch will also have a focus on

welcome.”

tastings and events.

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 6

Interested parties can visit ernestwilson.co.uk.

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THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 7

DAVID PERRY

However there was a big flaw. I wrote to Barry saying that it was not in my interest to sell very much in year two. If I did, I’d have to beat it in year three. And we had established I couldn’t hope to get anything before then. So I was proposing to cruise in year two then really turn it up for year

Irregular Thoughts They say travel broadens the mind.

It’s certainly broadened my wine range

three. What did he think?

The reply was an ex-gratia payment of a reasonable amount on the understanding that I shut up and didn’t mention it to any other manager. Now if they had flown me to Bordeaux for a few days, I would have been equally happy. It would have been cheaper and my sales of claret would have

I

’ve always believed that a trip to a winemaker is the very best way to

gone through the roof. Well, at the time they would have flown me to wherever Piat but that’s another story. Sorry, mate!

I’ve never been a fan of financial

encourage anyone to sell their wines.

incentives since my early days with Peter

Offering a cash incentive to the shop

Dominic. My first shop was a converted

d’Or was made, but you get the drift.

N

ine years ago I went on a memorable trip with the very

that sells the most Champagne may

church in Stamford. I had a great, local,

reward the shop that always sells the most

assistant manager, Linda, and also pinched

Thorman Hunt, not the other one.) We flew

Champagne, but it’s the others who should

the equally glamorous flame-haired

from Heathrow to Marseilles at a civilised

be targeted. Taking a random selection of

Frenchwoman, Pierette, from the local

time of day, and then Jeremy, accompanied

people to the region and then letting them

Victoria Wine, so we got off to a flying start.

by an old school chum of his, drove us up

Bonuses were paid on increased year-on-

to Condrieu going the pretty way towards

loose to enthuse is a much better way.

charming Jeremy Hunt. (Jeremy

My old Drinksmart colleague, Julian

year net profits at branch level, increases

Twaites, did this after he had moved on

in turnover and a reduction in overheads.

to First Quench (whatever happened to

However, in the first two years it was

bijou hotel, drinking Viognier and watching

them?). For a lot less than the cost of a

against targets. The targets were a bit silly.

the sun set over the Rhône. The following

financial incentive, he hired a minibus and

I sat down with my area manager, Barry,

morning we worked our way back down

took a group of managers to Champagne.

and went through them. I pointed out that I

to the southern Rhône and then back up

I’ve always admired him for that and other

couldn’t reduce my van driver expenses to

to the north, flying out of Lyon to Gatwick.

non-conventional thinking, although I

less than one, for example. Barry explained

It was the most wonderfully relaxed trip.

doubt he knows it. We’ve not spoken much

that if he’d put in sensible figures the shop

Jeremy knew all the best places to eat and

since I admitted drinking the 1982 Haut-

would never have been opened in the first

sleep and we were welcomed at all the

Brion I was supposed to be looking after,

place. So swings and roundabouts.

wineries by people whose grandfathers

the final leg.

We had an excellent meal at a very lovely

had probably dealt with him.

For half a day I travelled with Daniel Brunier from Vieux Télégraphe and learnt more then than I could hope for about Châteauneuf du Pape and Gigondas. I transposed my scribbled notes into a 25page travelogue with pictures and tasting notes, which I still treasure. The important thing is that many of the wines we tasted are still on my shelves and are still amongst our best sellers nine years later. I doubt I will ever change my Rhône range. I might add to it, but I won’t delist anything.

The same is true of our range from Languedoc-Roussillon, and to some extent David waits for his factotum to help him lug more samples back to Dorset

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 8

Bordeaux, Loire and Burgundy, thanks

Bacchus

to Daniel Lambert. Although we are a bit more promiscuous with our favours in those areas, the star sellers are the ones I have a personal connection with and whose cellars and vineyards I can describe.

Pfafl remains our exclusive choice for Austrian wines for exactly the same reason.

Thanks to a Wine Merchant magazine trip to Arezzo, I have a long-standing relationship with Dario Langella of specialist Italian importer Vineyards Direct. He’ll forgive me for mentioning that he missed the flight out, so we didn’t meet him until the following day and initially assumed he was part of the welcoming delegation.

We both discovered the spectacular Villa La Ripa. Had I not been on the trip I would not be able to offer a Chianti Classico

Hobnobbing with Parker

Nice to bump into Steve Parker, former owner of The Cheese & Wine Company in Hampton Village, south west London, at the WineGB tasting. Now an author specialising in cheese, he can be relied upon for intriguing food matching suggestions.

The latest: soft blue cheese, spread on a dark chocolate Hob Nob, served with Biddenden Schönburger. “It could be almost any sweet wine, and the cheese could be Gorgonzola or anything similar,” Steve advises. “But it has to be a dark chocolate Hob Nob.” Of course.

disguised as IGT and made by an eminent Vin Santo made by the quite scary Catarina Palma – “she’s from Milan, you know”.

Having met Dario, we now do an increasing range of other spectacular wines from tiny wineries in areas even the Italians haven’t heard of. ’d already been all over Germany when my parents lived there and had, more recently, tasted what seemed like a

thousand dry Rieslings in the Rheingau with Wines of Germany. When the Masters

CCTV footage from Hoults, shoplifter’s identity subtly disguised by our tech team

of Riesling trip came up, I sent Alice in my place. (It was a younger person’s trip anyway.) If nothing else it showed her just how hard we work on these “jollies”.

She came back exhausted but an absolute ambassador for German wines, and our range grew from the original one or two to the current 15 or so.

I like trips to Europe as they fulfil my criteria of not being away for more than three days and not flying for more than two hours. I have to ask Daniel to remove my name from the hat so I don’t end up being obliged to go to America, Canada, Australia or Barbados. Hmm … Barbados? Now I’m a state pensioner, maybe I could get some cover for the shop. That reminds me, I really must renew my passport.

David Perry is owner of Shaftesbury Wines in Dorset

Assemble any group of battle-hardened wine merchants and you can eventually expect the conversation to drift towards subjects connected to sciatica, slipped discs and spinal spasms of one sort or another.

It seems there are other hazards to worry about, too, thanks to the worrying increase in sharp-edged wine boxes. Toby Pierce of Quaff in Brighton is one victim whose forearms have been bloodied in this manner. “People think you’ve been self-harming,” he sighs.

Austen powers

brain surgeon. Or a Chianti Superiore and a

I

A thousand cuts

Fighting talk

Violence against shoplifters is perhaps something best fantasised about rather than enacted. But threats of a good thumping can be remarkably effective, as Bridget Hoult from Hoults in Huddersfield recounts.

Observing a shady-looking bloke helping himself to a couple of bottles of Châteauneuf-du-Pape from her shelf, she vaulted the counter and pinned him against the wall with the door, demanding he return the goods. The poor chap may have suffered some minor discomfort to his nose during the course of this exchange.

“You hit me, I’ll tell the police!” the felon protested.

“If I hit you,” Bridget shot back, “you won’t be in a position to tell anyone anything.”

The bottles were handed over.

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 9

On last month’s Wine Merchant buying trip to Sicily, chit-chat in the minibus turned to Pride & Prejudice. Mark Bedford of Caviste in Hampshire was explaining to the youngest member of the group that some people’s enjoyment of the Jane Austen classic had been greatly enhanced by a wetshirted Colin Firth as Mr Darcy in the BBC’s 1995 production (though Mark could remember some other details about the show that personally he found more entertaining).

This prompted a quick bit of Googling

by Geraint Davies of ND John in Swansea, who believes he has found the inspiration for Mark’s choice of clothing in his recent Wine Merchant profile.

Mr Darcy

Mr Bedford

TRIED & TESTED

Modestly-priced Cap Classique wines are capable

Domaine Font-Sane Gigondas Tradition 2021

of embarrassing Champagnes that come with much

This family-owned estate has been earning rave

higher price tags. But is that still the case when the

reviews for its Gigondas over a succession of vintages

price jumps up to £50? Perhaps so, given that we’re

and 2021 is not a wine you need to tuck under the

in prestige cuvée territory. Lovely peachy Chardonnay

stairs for five years before you can enjoy it. OK, it’s no

harmonises with the red-fruit notes of the 40% Pinot

shrinking violet, but its juicy fruit, vibrant herbs and

Noir component and the toasty, spicy oak undertones.

meaty richness are ready to be explored and enjoyed.

RRP: £50

RRP: £26

Graham Beck Cuvée Clive 2017

ABV: 12.5%

ABV: 14.5%

Bibendum (0845 263 6924)

Delibo Wine Agencies (01993 886644)

bibendum-wine.co.uk

delibo.co.uk

Domaine de la Pirolette Saint-Amour 2020

Finca Navahermosa Sol Verdejo 2022

Domaine de la Pirolette occupies a privileged site in

Do your customers, by any chance, enjoy spending

this Beaujolais village. There’s a beguiling aroma to

less than a tenner on wine whenever they get the

the wine, described as “violets, liquorice and white

chance? Do they like abv to be on the low side? Do

pepper”, but for us it conjures the scent of a drawer

they appreciate freshness as well as fruity characters?

in the back room of an old Tournus guest house,

Do they prefer their wines to be organic? Well, what a

opened for the first time since 1980. Gorgeous stuff.

massive coincidence. Better call Sol.

RRP: £18.30

RRP: £8.99

ABV: 14%

ABV: 12%

Hatch Mansfield (01344 871800)

Daniel Lambert Wines (01656 661010 )

hatch.co.uk

daniellambert.wine

Elaboration GrenacheSyrah-Mourvedre 2021

Journey’s End The Huntsman 2021

Simple label, simple formula – so why would the

The Gabb family behind Journey’s End, on the fringes

contents be any different? Actually there’s fun to be

of Stellenbosch, are well connected to the UK wine

had in this Xavier Roger creation, once the strawberry-

trade (they invented Kumala, for crying out loud). A

juice attack has subsided a little, with some pleasant

boisterous blend of Shiraz, Mourvedre and Grenache,

rusticity to the body and a clean herbal note on the

with some engagingly earthy notes, as well as luscious

finish. Stop writing your clever notes, just enjoy it.

black fruit and a little bit of green crunch.

RRP: £10.49

RRP: £14

ABV: 13%

ABV: 13.5%

Cachet Wine (01482 638888)

Bibendum (0845 263 6924)

cachetwine.co.uk

bibendum-wine.co.uk

Rivera Negroamaro 2020

Vale da Mata White Lisboa 2021

From high-altitude vineyards on the Salento peninsula

Vale da Mata is a tiny, ancient vineyard in the foothills

in Puglia, this IGT wine is matured for nine months in

of Serra de Aire near Lisbon, steep and rocky, and

glass-lined concrete tanks, the aim being to preserve

difficult to farm. We should be grateful to everyone

the natural vivacity of some very good quality fruit.

who risked lower back issues to produce this

It’s hard to imagine oak adding any refinements to the

mouthwatering field blend, which zaps the palate with

wine, which is bright and medium-bodied but also has

its stony and citrus flavours but also has a mellow oaky

some deliciously dark, savoury depths.

undercurrent of vanilla and spice.

RRP: £14

RRP: £16.95

ABV: 13.5%

ABV: 12.5%

Vinicon (02081 505 600)

Hallgarten & Novum Wines (01582 722 538)

vinicon.co.uk

hnwines.co.uk

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 10

ight ideas r b

49: French Conversation Evening Fabien Voisin Tell Me Wine, Chepstow

In a nutshell: Frenchman Fabien invited customers to the shop for an evening of general French conversation. Not to be confused with language lessons, the idea was simply a get together for those wanting to practice their French skills, and for locals to spend a relaxed hour or two chatting in their native language.

Tell us more …

“We have a mix of Francophile and some French speakers and some French native speakers in Chepstow because it is twinned with a small village in Normandy. Every year there is a little exchange where the French come to Chepstow, then the

would say the same about their language. It

being a chance for French speakers to relax

following year people from Chepstow will

might work to invite an Italian or a Spanish

and socialise rather than giving lessons. If

travel over to France.”

speaker to visit and do the same – why

you speak another language, sometimes

not? We are always looking for new ideas

it’s just nice to have the opportunity to

Did you charge for tickets?

to develop. Christine, my wife, wants to do

practice it.”

“No, we said to people, if you want to come

another French conversation evening first,

along, come and enjoy the conversation. It

so we’ll see how it goes.”

You frequently run events. How did this one compare?

was very informal and really for us to share our experience of French life. We didn’t

Would you welcome someone with no

“We tend to put on events to have

continue the French theme with wine on

French language skill?

something different going on in Chepstow.

the night, though; we offered everything

“Our intention is really to invite anyone,

We have had live music and wine tastings

we have as normal. When people come into

no matter what their level of French is, as

with visiting producers and we have had a

the shop and hear my accent, they ask for

long as they have some interest. Before we

raclette party, and sometimes you cannot

French wine, but we have everything on

moved to our current premises to develop

guarantee how well they will be attended.

our list; wines from Italy, Greece, Spain,

the bar side, we regularly organised French

We have noticed, particularly this year, it

Turkey …”

courses. Sometimes we would have people

can be complicated and unpredictable. We

starting from scratch, and we’d divide them

had fewer people come on the night than

It could be said that French is the

into groups. It would work well for about

we expected, but perhaps Thursday was

language of love and wine …

half a year, then people would stop coming.

not the best night to have it. I don’t know.

“Yes, possibly. I didn’t make that link but

Recently we’ve had some requests to start

We just keep trying. We remain optimistic

you’re right. To be fair, I think the Italians

up again and we thought we’d focus on it

and proactive.”

Fabien wins a WBC gift box containing some premium drinks and a box of chocolates.

Tell us about a bright idea that’s worked for you and you too could win a prize.

Email claire@winemerchantmag.com

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 11

KIDS ARE RUBBISH AT POURING WINE

LWF 2023

Visit us on stand B24

Never let them fill your glass, even as a joke.

Robert Kukla Spedition UK kukla.uk@kukla-spedition.com kbl.kukla-spedition.com

Chris Porter c.porter@kukla-spedition.com ISSUED BY THE WINE MARKETING BOARD

NOT YOU AGAIN!

customers we could do without

51. Johanna Badmington We don’t really drink the old-school stuff these days … all gets a bit samey and predictable after a while, don’t you find? I mean, yet another Sauvignon Blanc, yet another Pinot bloomin’ Grigio … come on … some people just seem frightened about broadening their horizons … I can’t remember when we first tried orange wine … I think it might have been at an app launch we were invited to in Spitalfields, or maybe it was when Siân, my friend the very famous cellist I’ve told you about, brought a bottle when

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we all went to the End of the Road festival … at first we were like, what the hell is this stuff,

ANAGRAM TIME

but after a few glasses you wonder why you’d ever drink anything else … it’s so … so … so … visceral; so natural and alive and authentic and pure, d’you know

Can you unscramble these Spanish wine regions?

If so, you win a remote controlled squirrel.

what I mean? It’s such a shame you don’t sell any, I really think that even some of the people around here would like it … though let’s be honest, most of them probably have no clue that you can even make wine from oranges …

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 2021 12

1. Do a Camper Job 2. Ruddier Earlobe 3. Navel Spade 4. NRA Zealot 5. Lionel’ s Immortal

Rising Stars

Joel Gollins Macknade, Faversham

F

inn Dunlop, head buyer at Macknade, cheerfully describes himself and Rupert the wine shop manager as “pretty much the standard sort of middle-aged men, talking about wine”. So when 18-yearold Joel Gollins appeared, complete with his WSET Level 2, Finn eagerly welcomed him to the team.

“It’s fantastic to engage with different demographics and different generations in wine by having younger people selling and getting involved,” says Finn. “Joel is a fun-loving student who enjoys going out to the pub, playing cricket and all that but equally he is really serious about learning about the food and wine industry.

“When he initially applied he wanted specifically to work in the wine shop but as he was 18 we said we couldn’t have him in there just by himself, he’d need to be alongside someone else, and ideally we wanted someone to work across our extensive deli department.

So we started him off on the deli and he pretty quickly developed a love for that as well.

“Subsequently he took himself off and did the Academy of Cheese Level 1. If he’d have asked, we would have put him through it, but he just took the initiative. He’s really developing his palate.”

Starting his second year studying History & Politics at the local university, Joel is on hand to work part-time hours to fit in with his degree. “I’m actually seeing that it’s more likely I’ll end up going down the wine route once I’ve finished university,” he says.

“I was raised in a very foodie family and we’ve always lived in Kent, so my interest in food and wine has been a sort of natural thing for me. I did my WSET Levels 1 and 2 just after I finished my A-levels. It was a new hobby to learn and I thought knowing about wine would be a really useful skill to have.

“I enjoyed working on the deli because I knew quite a few of the local suppliers, so that gave me a good start, and then I really learned about all the cheese and charcuterie. I’ve effectively transitioned to the wine shop but I still work on the deli every now and then.

“I really like all aspects of the job, especially that everyone here has a real passion for food and drink, plus I get to learn something new every day.”

Now aged 20, does Joel find himself the lone wine drinker on a night out with his peer group? “I do drink

beer as well, but my friends like to ask me all sorts of questions about wine,” he says. “I think they are astonished by how much I know. I’m on a mission to get them interested but they always say that ‘wine is crap’.

I explain that there are 1,001 different types of wine, you just have to find the right one, and a £5 bottle from Asda is not the starting point! Every now and then we do have a bottle at work, which I’m able to take home and share with my friends and they are pleasantly surprised by what it tastes like. But it is an uphill struggle. I do think it’s probably a tastebuds thing because historically I liked white wine more but only recently I started liking red wine more.” Pinot Noir, if anyone is asking, and he also says his first love is Kent wine.

With two more years of studentdom ahead, Joel has decided to keep his options open when it comes to deciding on a particular role within the trade that he’ll pursue. “I think it would be difficult to pinpoint that right now,” he says, “but my plan is to do the WSET Level 3 as soon as I finish my degree.”

Joel wins a bottle of Viña Real Gran Reserva If you’d like to nominate a Rising Star, email claire@winemerchantmag.com

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 13

Incognito ad supplied sep

dvertorial parately

BITS & BOBS

Favourite Things

Magpie

Hambledon sold to Symington and BBR A consortium named CVI UK, led by The Symington Group and Berry Bros & Rudd, is set to acquire Hambledon Vineyard for £22.3m.

Established in 1952, Hambledon, the

Naked apologises after £15m losses Naked Wines saw a loss of £15m in

UK’s oldest vineyard, has been struggling

2023, and could fail to meet its financial

over recent years and the takeover bid

commitments if a “combination” of

comes amid a sustained increase in the

factors affects its cash flow.

popularity of British wines over the past

Founder Rowan Gormley apologised

decade, with production having been

to shareholders as he explained that

Vintage & Vine, Clevedon

boosted by the UK’s warming climate. The

“high inflation, higher taxes on alcohol

consortium said it would seek to tap into

and falling disposable incomes” had put

Favourite wine on my list

the vineyard’s growth potential and take

pressure on sales and costs and “resulted

its brand “to the next level”, adding that it

in our reporting a material uncertainty

viewed the acquisition as “an important

around our going concern”.

Dom Lamy

Recently it has to be DaVide from winegrower David Acha and winemaker Pablo Estévez. A 100% Albariño from Rías Baixas; the vineyards are close to the sea in the Salnes valley. They produce a limited amount but the quality is outstanding.

mitigation against the risk of climate

recognise that the environment is likely

Business Sale Report, September 26

to remain tough and are configuring the business to be profitable and cash

Favourite wine and food match

generative. A leaner and more focused

It has to be a seafood paella with the DaVide. The wine matches the spice and heat from the food but calms the palate and still holds its own.

Naked will be best placed to deliver for our customers and winemakers. I believe we can emerge from these challenges a stronger business.”

Favourite wine trip

My wife and I had our honeymoon in Italy so we had the chance to visit many wine regions. We stayed at several agriturismos in Tuscany which had their own vineyards. This meant we had the chance to learn about the wine production, and to sample plenty of course!

Favourite wine trade person

Chief executive Nick Devlin said: “We

change”.

Retail Gazette, September 19 Hampshire producer had been struggling

Industry mourns Hubert Trimbach

Vineyards have an altitude problem A paper published in the journal

Hubert Trimbach, the sales director and

Holly Plumeridge from Alliance Wine has been behind us since we opened and even helped us load the shelves.

She’s always very approachable and offers great support.

iScience has highlighted the concern for

ambassador of his family’s winery in

the gradual disappearance of vineyards

Alsace, has died aged 85.

throughout Europe.

in the family business in 1963. While

steep slopes, are considered under threat

Favourite wine shop

Bernard was the winemaker, Hubert,

by both climate change and the ongoing

known for his easy, outgoing personality,

“rural exodus and a gradual abandonment

proved to be the man to market them. He

of mountain landscapes,” the report

travelled the globe for decades, putting

notes. Researchers concluded: “The new

Trimbach wines in front of managers,

generation is not attracted to continue

sommeliers and guests in the world’s finest

working under extreme conditions if

hotels and restaurants.

economic benefits are insignificant.”

Wine Spectator, September 14

Independent, September 1

Truth be told we don’t get to visit many wine shops. But I do love finding one just off the beaten track which is run by the owner. These shops, especially when they are tucked away, have so much character and I always enjoy finding out about their back story.

Hubert joined his older brother Bernard

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 16

High-altitude vineyards, and those on

Italians count the cost of fungus

?

THE BURNING QUESTION

How do you deter shoplifters?

�

Christmas is certainly ‘steal to order’ time.

But as the social security net is getting more holes, there are many more falling through it. Good digital CCTV is a must. Placement of high-end lines can be pertinent and we use dummy Champagne bottles in the windows.

Natural barriers are a help, too: a whisky barrel or such to make it slightly harder. The greatest deterrent is having the collective of shoplifters knowing you are not an easy target.

As Italy’s autumn grape harvest begins, winemakers are braced for a sharp drop in production after vines have been ruined by fungus.

Regions worst hit by the downy mildew

”

were along the Adriatic coast, with Abruzzo losing 40% of its Montepulciano

Andrew Lundy H Champagne winner H Vino, Edinburgh

output and Puglia reporting a loss of 25% of its Primitivo.

“The plants are the most vulnerable during the pre-flowering, flowering and early fruiting stages,” said Andrea Luvisi, professor of phytopathology at the University of Salento in Puglia. “Thanks to heavy rains and humidity, the fungus was able to attack the vines during these vulnerable periods.”

The Italian government has allocated a

�

We don’t suffer a huge amount in this area but have many blind spots in our shop which we’ve solved by introducing a doorbell system for people wanting to buy. Sometimes we do leave the door open if we’re in the shop in case people might be put off and not understand why it’s there, but the majority love the doorbell system and see it as part of being in some kind of ‘speakeasy’ situation, adding a bit of drama to the experience. Our shop is full of lots of different rooms, so this system works to monitor who is in and out.

”

modest €1m to help grape producers hurt

Adam Kirkbride The Secret Bottle Shop, Hereford

by downy mildew.

�

Reuters, September 15

Shrewsbury BID shares intelligence regarding shoplifters in the area. Photos are fed into our CCTV system which has an advanced AI-based facial recognition feature, which alerts staff if one of these people enters our premises. We have access to the town centre radio service, giving real-time information when a known individual is spotted at any other retailer in the town. Law enforcement and the ranger service are also on this network, making Shrewsbury an inhospitable environment for shoplifters.

Billionaire sells £41m collection Taiwanese billionaire Pierre Chen is selling 25,000 bottles of wine from his

”

collection, which spans 40 years and includes Burgundies valued at £156,000

James Tanner Tanners, Shrewsbury

and a very rare 1982 Pétrus.

The collection is expected to fetch up to £41m at separate auctions in Paris, London, New York, Hong Kong and Beaune.

“This is the ultimate wine collection, which comes to the market at a time when global interest in fine wine has arguably never been greater,” said Nick Pegna, the global head of wine and spirits at

�

Shoplifting is always going to be there for us. Our two Doberman Pinschers are a constant fixture in the shop and provide a deterrent to any thieves! Shoplifting isn’t frequent but when it does happen it’s always frightening and sadly on the increase due to social circumstances and people suffering with addiction. I would advise those experiencing theft problems in their shops to work with the local community to raise awareness and work together at solutions.

Ravinder Virdi Dallas Liquor Mart, west London

”

Sotheby’s, which is organising the sale.

“This is a cellar in which every bottle has a story, and in which every wine is the best you could wish to own and enjoy.”

Champagne Gosset The oldest wine house in Champagne: Äy 1584

The Guardian, September 27

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 17

ANALYSIS

Is the UK planting too many vines?

The country’s vineyard area has seen huge growth in recent years and is predicted to double again over the coming decade, along with production. So what’s going to happen to all this extra wine? Graham Holter reports back from WineGB’s autumn briefing

I

n case you hadn’t noticed, there are a lot more

kind of growth would have to come in one of two

vines in the UK than there used to be. In the past

ways. Either the overall market for sparkling wine

five years, the vineyard area has increased by

would double, taking domestic wine with it, or UK-

74%.

produced wine would make a substantial dent in

That brings it to just under 4,000 hectares. “Not

the market share of its rivals.

far off Chablis or the Médoc,” Sam Linter, chair of

Again, there will be bullish types who urge

WineGB, points out.

English and Welsh winemakers to dream big.

It’s been an explosive period of growth for the

But 68% of the wine currently being produced is

domestic wine industry, but we ain’t seen nothing

sparkling, and 97% of that is traditional-method

yet. By 2032, current estimates suggest that the

fizz, priced at Champagne levels. Not many

area under vine will possibly double, and even top

merchants are currently forecasting an imminent

9,000 hectares.

sales boom in wines at those rarified price points.

This year, the industry is forecasting production

T

of 13.6 million bottles of wine. In 2032, that will

he dread word “oversupply” has been

probably look more like 24.7 million bottles. But

whispered in the English wine industry

Wine Standards is projecting that the figure may

for a few years now as more and more

actually be as high as 29 million.

fields, once filled with livestock or cereal crops, are

Inevitably, the question is being asked: who’s

striped with rows of young vines. Could we really

going to be buying, and drinking, all that wine? As

be faced with a situation where the UK produces

things stand, only 7% of English and Welsh wine is

more grapes than it needs, and cellars are bulging

exported. (For all the bluster about Brexit providing

with unsold bottles?

global opportunities for British producers, leaving

It’s a question that WineGB intends to address

the single market has created the same frustrations

next year. “We did a study a few years ago because

for wineries as it has for most other exporters.)

Multiple retailers currently account for 31% of sales. Direct sales to consumers, either at the cellar door or online, make up another 30%. The on-trade sells 22%, and independent merchants bring up the rear with 10%.

Can all of those sectors realistically double their sales of English and Welsh wines in the coming nine years? Optimists will say “why not?”, but that

It’s looking increasingly inevitable that Charmat wines will have a bigger role to play, giving consumers more affordable options

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 18

we thought we were going to have an oversupply problem,” says Sam Linter.

“The study came out and said yes, we are going to have an oversupply problem. But the market continued to grow faster than the study anticipated – and we ended up with an undersupply problem.”

Linter says that the data gleaned from that earlier exercise will be used to make next year’s study as accurate as it can be. The good news in the

meantime is that sales and production are both in growth. Nevertheless, Linter readily admits that she’s “not sure” if an oversupply issue is looming on the horizon.

Nick Wenman of Albury Organic Vineyard in Surrey, vice-chair of WineGB, sounds a positive note. “There are two things that need to be addressed here,” he says.

“One is the increasing drive to sell our wines by the glass in restaurants, which makes a huge difference, and we’re seeing more and more of that now.

“The independent wine merchants, as well as the large retail chains, are featuring English wines on their shelves, which is a massive change in the last five years.”

T

he emergence of Charmat-method English sparkling wine has irked some producers, who privately worry that such second-

tier wines could destabilise the premium pricing structure that traditional-method English fizz has so painstakingly established.

But it’s looking increasingly inevitable that these wines will have a bigger role to play, giving consumers more affordable options.

“We will see, undoubtedly, wines at very different price points,” says Wenman. “Charmat wines are already on the scene at much lower price points.

“There are 130 million bottles of Prosecco sold in this country every year – that compares to 25 million bottles of Champagne. So there’s a massive market opportunity for Charmat wines to address a large part of that market.”

Is that a realistic ambition, given that most Prosecco retails for around £10 and English equivalents such as Fitz and Flint sell for upwards of £20? Wenman points out that the aim is not to wipe out Prosecco’s market share, merely to claim a small portion of it.

“Prosecco has been a huge benefit to the UK wine market,” he says. “People of my generation drank Champagne once or twice a year; it was a specialoccasion drink. What Prosecco has done is make fizz an every-week drink now.

“Of course, the price point is the key to that, but if you look at 130 million bottles … well, we only need to get 5% of that at £13 or £14 and that’s doubling our sales, pretty much.”

Top: the trade gathers at WineGB’s tasting in Battersea in September Above left: James and Simon Hawkins of English wine shop Hawkins Bros Above right: Tom Flint of Wiston Estate, formerly of The Bottle & Jug Dept

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 19

Six of the best from Vinicon Here’s your chance to sample six wines from the company’s impressive indie-focused portfolio at no cost and with no obligation

Cafaggio Chianti Classico Riserva

Castello di Montepo by Jacopo Biondi Santi JeT Rosato, Maremma

Finca Ambrosia Viña Unica Cabernet Franc, Gualtallary

RRP £27

RRP £20

RRP £26

Villa Cafaggio is located in the hamlet of Greve in

The Biondi Santi family is legendary in the history

Finca Ambrosía is the story of Argentina’s wine

the 1800s when Ferruccio Biondi Santi is credited

moved from big Malbecs to terroir-driven fine wines.

Chianti, nestled in the Conca d’Oro (Golden Basin)

which is recognised as the finest area for producing Chianti Classico. The vineyards are all certified

organic and the estate at Cafaggio can trace its history back to 1408.

The Chianti Classico Riserva has an intense ruby

red colour. The bouquet is dominated by mature fruity notes, reminiscent of black

bilberries. It has a full, concentrated and intense flavour. On the palate there is a very pleasant note of

mature cherries, which lingers for a long time, with sweet tannins

that blend in perfectly with the structure of the wine.

of Italian winemaking, with roots going back to

with the inception of the great wine Brunello di Montalcino. Now firmly at home in Maremma,

they continue to lead the way with innovation in both vineyard and winery. This JeT Rosato is an

elegant alternative that shines in the rosé category, delivering a finesse and structure from careful

handling of the Sangiovese

fruit. A pale blush with

tea rose highlights. Fresh, fruity, intense, hints of white flowers, and a

lingering finish on the

nose. Flavourful and

balanced, this wine is enlivened by a fresh acidic note.

revolution over the past 20 years during which it has Since the very first harvest, Finca Ambrosía’s high-

quality fruit has been in demand from Argentina’s top wineries such as Trapiche, Altos Los Hormegas and Viña Cobos. In 2010 legendary Argentinian

winemaker Daniel Pi was engaged to make wine for the owners, paying

him with bottles of the wine. Their association continues to this day.

This Viña Unica has a gentle oak influence which adds balance to the expressive style that

illustrates the great affinity of Cabernet Franc with

Gualtallary terroir.

V

inicon was founded by Stephen Lane, whose wide experience within agency businesses inspired him to create a route to market for those smaller premium producers that can often get lost in larger portfolios.

“We are a small and independent company,” explains fellow director Elaine Taylor, “and we work with family-owned, independent wineries that offer stunning quality and often great value with production levels suited to independent channels.” The business is focused on independent and specialist on-trade customers, not multiples.

The model is streamlined, with a small team, and both Stephen and Elaine – a WSET educator who teaches to Diploma level – travelling the length and breadth of the country to organise tastings with clients and their customers.

Stock is held at LCB and the firm takes a flexible approach to minimum orders.

Vinicon’s portfolio is nicely settled, with a specialism in Italy that reflects the passion of its owners. But the list also features producers from across Europe and the new world, all of which dovetail with Vinicon’s approach to wine.

“Our aspiration was never to become the biggest in the market,” says Elaine.

“We just like to sell some really nice wine from nice people to nice people. It’s not a complicated model.”

Scan the QR code to apply for your free case. For more information, visit the Vinicon website at vinicon.co.uk or call 02081 505 600

Quinta da Falorca Encruzado, Dão

Rivera Negroamaro, Salento IGT

Ronchi di Manzano Friulano, Friuli Colli Orientali

RRP £23

RRP £14

RRP £23

Dão offers an elegance and finesse that has earned

Rivera is in the hands of the third generation of the

Friuli has been overlooked for many years in favour

the south”, and Quinta da Falorca, formed by the

sustainable viticulture. The vineyards are located

regions but is now internationally recognised as

tufa-limestone soils that produce wines from fine

Recent investment by Italian powerhouses such as

never disappoints. It has a complex bouquet of wild

to this. However, Ronchi di Manzano has been one

is medium bodied on the

achieving the highest accolades for its aromatic

it the historic reputation as the “Burgundy of

Costa Barros de Figueiredo Family more than five

generations ago, produces some of the very finest examples of the region. This old-vine Encruzado

displays very fine delicate fruit balanced by perfect

acidity. This is a wine that can age for up to 10 years,

and has scored 90+ points from Robert Parker consistently since its earliest release.

family and farmed according to the principles of

of more fashionable and “luxurious” Italian wine

at 200-230 metres above sea level with deep

producing Italy’s greatest aromatic white wines.

native grape varieties. It’s an easy-to-grab wine that

the Frescobaldi and Antinori families is testament

dark berry fruit, with notes of black liquorice, and

of the leading lights of the region for over 50 years,

palate.

wines with rich minerality.

great estates in Italy.

winery, this wine is straw-yellow in

reds, which are not only

With intense aromas of blossom and

terms, but also

sweet almonds and pears, all on a

“Rivera is one of the

From the oldest vineyard of the

The estate excels with its

colour with light green reflections.

gorgeous in absolute

ripe fruit, the wine has scents of

exceedingly fairly

bedrock of beautiful minerality.

priced … Rivera makes wines that capture

the exuberance that Puglia is

capable of, while maintaining a

gorgeous sense of structure.” –

Antonio Galloni, The Wine Advocate

BOOK REVIEW

The Oxford Companion to Wine Fifth Edition

of its lengthier entries seem daunting to readers searching for a more concise overview, or perhaps just a summary of recent developments. This can give the impression that the book is more interested in the classical, conservative wine culture of bygone times than it is in current trends.

Edited by Julia Harding, Jancis Robinson and Tara Q Thomas

That’s probably an unfair conclusion to draw – it’s an encyclopaedia, after all – though there are a few glaring examples of where the book doesn’t exactly

Oxford University Press, £50

help its own cause.

T

the top of the queue for an update – has barely

it by its official name. For some, it’s simply The

more than twice as much space.) The cursory entry

Companion. I suspect for most of us, it’s Jancis. “Is

on qvevri, which looks identical to that of the fourth

Cannonau definitely the same thing as Grenache?”

edition, seems like another missed opportunity.

The section on orange wines – surely a topic near

here’s a good chance that you already

changed and still occupies less than a third of a

possess an earlier edition of this book,

page. (The new entry on Steven Spurrier is only

and it’s almost certain that you never call

slightly shorter, while Hugh Johnson is afforded

The Companion has an impossible job in keeping

“I don’t know – let’s ask Jancis.”

The fifth edition is now with us, and Jancis has

everyone satisfied in a diverse and fast-changing

been putting on weight. The fourth edition came in

world of wine. Getting the tone and emphasis

at 2,824g; the fifth tips the scales at 3,213g. That’s

exactly right across more than 4,000 entries is

an extra 389g of wine knowledge, 1.6g for each of

something we can agree is more or less impossible,

the 240 new entries. So what will we be learning?

and yet the editors come admirably close to

The PR blurb hails original material on the

achieving it.

winemaking activities of Estonia, Latvia, Finland,

The book’s shorter entries provide definitive

Gabon, Senegal and Uganda, which is laudible, but

and more reliable judgements than many a Google

perhaps not a reason to relegate the fourth edition

search would yield, while some of its broader

to doorstop duties just yet. North America as a

and more esoteric headings – such as minerality,

whole deservedly receives more detailed coverage

and the language of wine – contain thoughtful

than it did in 2015; the press release also alludes to

essays that delight in ditching editorial objectivity.

greater insights into DNA, robotics and blockchain,

Sometimes this creeps into the more mainstream

a word that thousands toss into conversation but

entries, too; the disdain for Chianti’s Gran Selezione

perhaps only five people understand.

classification, for example, is hardly concealed.

That all sounds worthy and important but let’s

In the section devoted to tasting notes, we

flick through the pages for something a little a bit

are reminded of the fine balance that all wine

cooler. Hey, there’s a new section about celebrity

communicators should seek to achieve. “Dullness

wines! (Not entirely a bad thing, it seems.) Have

is not a virtue,” it says. “A dry list of the component

rabbits, last seen in the second edition, made a

parts of a wine may fail to communicate the beauty

return? (No. Boo!) Does Mikhail Gorbachev still

and complexity of a high-grade wine; on the

have his own entry? Happily he does, though it’s been radically trimmed. (Hmm.) There’s also a new section about the carbon footprint of wine, which is welcome, especially as the articles about sustainability still seem uncharacteristically sketchy.

The book has always prided itself on its deep dives into the history of the regions, producers and processes it describes, which can make some

The section on orange wines still occupies less than a third of a page.

Hugh Johnson is afforded more than twice as much space

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 22

other hand, excessive inventiveness is liable to be counterproductive.”

It could almost serve as a mission statement for a book which, while occasionally slightly dry for some tastes, has a relevance, and a value, that remains undimmed amid the noise and clutter of the internet.

Graham Holter

SPONSORED FEATURE

THE RICHES OF

RIBERA DEL DUERO

T

he Top 100 Tasting, designed to showcase the very best wines from the Ribera del Duero DO, is back for its fourth year.

Independent retailers are invited to taste the Top 100 wines as selected by Tim Atkin MW following his annual visit to the Spanish region.

Atkin encountered 600 wines during his September sojourn in the region, and attendees will discover his top 100 selection of mainly red wines, but also a number of rosés and whites, showcasing the freshness and diversity of the region.

The event is the perfect opportunity to connect with members of the Consejo and learn more about the region.

The full Top 100 Selection 2023-24 will be available to view, with tasting notes and scores, at riberadelduero.es/uk from November 14 and will feature in the Tim Atkin MW Ribera del Duero Report, a definitive overview of the region and its producers.

New to the 2023 edition of the tasting is the introduction of a consumer element, which will provide an opportunity for members of the trade to encourage their best customers to try some of the most impressive wines that the region has to offer.

This year, guests will also have the opportunity to discover a selection of Ribera del Duero’s unrepresented wines from a range of top-scoring wineries. As in previous years, the tasting will also be showcasing the best of Ribera del Duero on a budget, with wines that retail in Spain for under €15.

JOIN TIM ATKIN MW AT CARLTON HOUSE TERRACE, LONDON SW1Y 5AH NOVEMBER 14, 12PM – 5.30PM SCAN THE QR CODE TO REGISTER

RIBERADELDUERO.ES/UK

TIM ATKIN MW RIBERA DEL DUERO HAS SO MUCH TO OFFER RIGHT NOW “My most recent trip to Ribera del Duero was my most extensive yet. I visited 58 bodegas and tasted wines from a further 128 producers over the course of a twoweek stay, spending more time than ever walking through vineyards.

“The more I visit the region, the more I am convinced of its quality and its diversity, despite the fact that it is overwhelmingly planted with just a single red grape: Tinto Fino, or Tempranillo.

“The white wines are getting better and better by the vintage, but it's the reds that are mostly responsible for the region’s well-deserved worldwide reputation. I made a number of new discoveries this year and I can’t wait to taste them again in London later this year. It’s time that people began to appreciate just how different the wines can be from diffferent villages, vineyards and sub-regions. Ribera del Duero has so much to offer right now.”

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 23

Stars of Setúbal 7. Special Moscatel de Setúbal In association with Setúbal Peninsula Wines

M

oscatel de Setúbal is a style we took a look at last month. We return to the theme this month to savour some examples that have been given some extra time in the barrel, way in excess of the 18 months that the local regulations stipulate. A decade is a long time for winemakers to have so much precious wine sitting in their cellars, but from a consumer point of view it’s certainly time well spent. The wines take on extra depth and complexity, but retain their freshness, and hit the shelves at remarkably competitive price points.

Bacalhôa Moscatel de Setúbal

Domingos Soares Franco

Venâncio da Costa Lima

Superior 10 Anos 2004

Colecção Privada Moscatel de

Moscatel de Setúbal Reserva

Ehrmanns

Setubal Superior Armagnac

2009

2008

Gauntleys of Nottingham RRP: £28.10

RRP: £18.99

The fruit is sourced from mountainous north-facing slopes where the Moscatel grapes can linger on the vine until the sugars and phenolics are exactly where winemaker Filipa Tomaz da Costa wants them to be.

Maceration continues until the end of winter, slowly extracting all those precious aromas and flavours, before a decade of mellowing in small oak barrels. What emerges after all that time and effort is a big, bold and fiery wine, with concentrated Christmas cake flavours and an orangey undercurrent.

Marta Vine

RRP: £25

Moscatel de Setúbal is produced with the addition of spirit, which some winemakers prefer to have a fairly neutral flavour. Here, winemaker Domingos Soares Franco opts for Armagnac. The style is fresh and elegant, with a pronounced honey note, but also some spice and citrus fruit in the mix, along with a mineral seam.

We were looking for special wines, and this fits the bill perfectly. In fact, you could even call it exotic.

Quinta do Piloto Moscatel de Setúbal 10 Anos Superior Raymond Reynolds

RRP £48

Moscatel de Setúbal is a wine style that doesn’t always associate itself with food – the tradition in the region itself is to enjoy it as an aperitif or as a dessert wine. Yet sometimes it feels we should make more of an effort to consider its gastronomic potential. Here’s a case in point: a wine that is so subtle, and yet so deep; so simple, and yet so complex … surely there are dinners that would be enhanced by its company. But then again, maybe it’s a wine that deserves to be savoured on its own, with its polished-wood aromas, spicy prickle and incredible length. A meal in itself.

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 24

There’s a reason why Venâncio da Costa Lima wins so many awards and plaudits for its Moscatel wines, and this example will delight anyone who appreciates the sweeter fruit spectrum that the style can deliver.

Honey and marmalade are very much to the fore; there’s even a faint (and pleasing) suggestion of Lockets. But it’s all about balance, and the welljudged acidity means that the richness is tempered by a long, clean finish that leaves you wanting more.

THE WINEMAKER FILES //

Emma Wood

Wirra Wirra, McLaren Vale

I’ve fallen in love with the diversity of the McLaren Vale region and the styles that it can make, just because of the climate. The cooling breezes from the hill range and the sea moderate those superhot days.

All vintages are completely different.

There are certain vintages that make a winemaker’s job a bit more challenging, but that’s the light and shade of wine, right? That’s what’s so nice about it. It’s a kind of snapshot of what the season’s like, and we have to embrace it.

The picking decision is really important to me. That’s probably a focus I brought to the job. I am all about holding your nerve and waiting until the fruit’s really right.

Roseworthy graduate Emma joined Wirra Wirra as head winemaker just over a year ago after a long spell at Penfolds. The winery dates back to 1894 but its modern incarnation was developed by Greg Trott.

Wines imported by Gonzalez Byass UK gonzalezbyass.com/en-gb info@gonzalezbyassuk.com I spent five years working at the viticulture department in my previous company, as a winemaker. I really loved seeing the vine stages throughout the year.

In general winemakers tend to only go out in the lead-up up to harvest. To see all the important stages – how important pruning is, and quality soil health, under-vine management, those sorts of things – has made me really appreciate how hard it is to grow good grapes. At Wirra Wirra I want to work with the growers and the viticulturist so we can get to the goal that we all want.

There was no brief. I think they expected me to do what I thought was right. There was no need for radical change. With these wines, there’s nothing broken, they’re beautiful wines. I would like to make sure that they over-deliver in quality but are still generous. I think you can still make elegant wines that have generosity there in terms of how they feel on your palate.

Wirra Wirra had the foresight to grow the whites in the Adelaide Hills, where it’s cooler, and the reds in McLaren Vale. So I guess the company’s already been really progressive. One of the first wines Wirra Wirra made was a Riesling from Adelaide Hills in 1972, and there are still only 12 producers of Riesling in Adelaide Hills.

A lot of the soil differences within the vineyards come through with the wines, which is lovely. When it’s the redder clay sort of soils, we see a ferrous kind of character: a little bit of blood, a little bit of rusty nail. In our Grenache, you can see that sandier soils give wines with softer, bluer sort of fruits. There’s a terracotta kind of character on some of the redder soils, so I think the style of Cabernet we’re making doesn’t taste like Margaret River, and it doesn’t taste like Coonawarra. It is uniquely McLaren Vale. I see more dried herb and leafy notes in our wines.

I think the wonderful culture and the welcoming nature of Wirra Wirra is well known. Everyone knows that it has a fantastic reputation and is a great place to work. I would describe it as family-owned but with corporate structures and systems.

There’s nothing left to chance. This is not a random execution of wine styles. There’s so much thought and consideration that they’re putting into the process. I may have a slightly different idea and approach and may want to tweak some of those things.

But every single one of those wines is made to a plan.

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 25

The 12th Man Chardonnay 2021 RRP £24

Most of the fruit is from the Lenswood GI, so higher natural acidity, and all the things you want for premium Chardonnay.

It’s all handpicked, whole-bunch pressed with full solids, straight into barrel. Then a natural ferment, lees stirring and partial malo. I like the salinity and the textural element.

Woodhenge Shiraz 2019 RRP £23

It’s kind of the odd one out in the portfolio, because stylistically it’s the most different, but I love it.

The vines are closer to the coast in really red clay soils and that tends to produce wines that are full of berries, more tannic and with a darker fruit spectrum.

It’s beautifully styled and exceptionally good value.

The Absconder Grenache 2016 RRP £45

2016 was a lovely vintage that ripened Grenache really easily.

It really does need time to get flavour, otherwise you're just picking pinky-red grapes, and the tannin in the seeds and skins stays green. We’ve done quite a few benchmark tastings with our Grenache and we think we’re definitely in a sweet spot.

Dead Ringer Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 RRP £45

This vineyard is high so the fruit hangs a bit longer. The owners have a huge attention to detail and that makes such a difference with Cabernet.

You can get a fresher style but not the green characters. I’ve presented this at dinners and it goes beautifully with food.

DUNCAN MCLEAN

venue, being two doors along from our shop. Stromness Town Hall is a converted church halfway up a steep cobbled street with no parking. Pushing a trolley of rattling bottles and glasses up a cobbled ski-slope is a nerve-jangling experience.

Covid called a halt in 2020 and 2021,

Northabout Our wine festivals were hugely popular, but it was the right decision to stop

and even at the start of 2022 a full-blown festival would’ve been inadvisable. And yet this summer, when it would’ve been fine, we didn’t relaunch it; and we don’t intend to next year. “Why?” our customers ask, plaintively. I give them a tactful answer, but for you I’ll tell the truth.

Orkney. It kicks off with the Folk

we installed in the West Side Cinema. (My

T

Festival and the Nature Festival

favourite movie-night was the matching

good advice. We took on every opportunity

in May, followed by the St Magnus Arts

of Donnafugata wines with that Sicilian

to promote ourselves and our services.

Festival in June. After that comes Science,

classic Cinema Paradiso.) We teamed up

Affordable pricing was important in an

North Ronaldsay Sheep, and the Blues.

with local producers of cheese, sourdough

area where incomes are low and there’s

Rounding off the season is the Storytelling

and Porkney Pies in tasting events outside

no great wine-drinking tradition. Festival

Festival in October. It’s a rich and varied

traditional venues.

events were priced with fantastic wines

he longer we did the festival,

S

the less money we made. In the

ummer is a festival of festivals in

cultural calendar, with one obvious exception.

We developed a pop-up wine bar which

early days, we were establishing

ourselves as a source of good wine and

We held wine fairs in our two main

served at cost: profit came solely from

towns. Kirkwall Town Hall is a convenient

orders taken on the night. That worked initially, with people coming to one or two

So in June 2007 we launched the Orkney Wine Festival. At first it was a long

events, and buying a case or half a case at

weekend of events, but soon grew into a

the end of the week. Gradually, customers

week-long programme. Eventually – after

realised what good fun and good value the

the exhaustion of hosting events for seven

events were, so they booked holidays and

days and nights left me gibbering on the

tickets for every event. But they still bought

floor behind the counter – it spread over

a case or half a case.

Every event was sold out, many potential

two weeks with a break in the middle.

We attracted outstanding speakers

customers were turned away, and yet

like Kevin Judd of Greywacke, Paulo di

orders were barely covering marketing

Marchi of Isole e Olena and Jan Pettersen

and other costs, let alone the months of

of Fernando de Castilla. They didn’t fly in

organisation and the extra-long days of

for a single event, but stayed for two or

chaperoning winemakers, carrying trestle

three days, assisting at wine fairs and shop

tables and emptying spittoons. The festival

tastings as well as at headline dinners, and

had become about great nights out, rather

becoming one of the team for a few days.

than great wine – or great wine sales.

It feels strange to give up on something

Paulo di Marchi came out in the van with me delivering stock to restaurants. As a

started from scratch that became a

thank-you, I arranged for him to go fishing

tremendous success. But sometimes

with a ghillie from a hotel we supply. Three

that’s exactly the right point in a business

freezing hours on Stenness Loch resulted

trajectory to wield the guillotine.

(at the last minute, and much to his delight) in two reasonable trout.

Over the years we dreamt up new events to attract different customers. So as well as formal multi-course dinners, we held barbecues called The Thrill of the Grill.

The exhaustion of hosting events left me gibbering on the floor behind the counter THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 26

Now we must think of something new, and start all over again. Which is, after all, the fun part.

Duncan McLean is proprietor of Kirkness & Gorie, Kirkwall

Emily Galletly

Feature sponsored by Jeroboams Trade For more information about the company, visit jeroboamstrade.co.uk Call 020 7288 8888

On the Road Emily is the newly appointed jeroboams trade senior account manager, looking after on- and off-trade customers in London

chose wine because the combination

to so many customers. Like FRAM and

of the culture, geography, travel and

Kelly Washington, Podere Le Ripi has great

the connection with producers is so

respect for the land and this is just one

fascinating.

of the reasons these wines are so indiefriendly.

I’ve been with Jeroboams Trade since July and I’m meeting all the producers

The popularity of organic or biodynamic

and learning everything about the

wines continues to grow. Whether the

portfolio. There’s a lot to work with

wines are certified or not, the knowledge

because there is obviously access to all

of how the producers

the old-world classics as well as wines

farm is really

that represent really good value. There’s

important.

so much potential with the new agencies coming on board too.

I enjoy working with the

We’ve just had Gustavo Rearte, the head

indies because often

Starting in my hometown of Glasgow,

winemaker from Achaval Ferrer, in town

they are owner-operated

I’ve worked in hotels, restaurants and

and we’ve been doing loads of tastings and

and you can build that

wine bars as a sommelier and manager:

lunches with him. It’s been so much fun.

customer connection and

Hotel du Vin, Andrew Fairlie’s restaurant

Meeting the winemaker always brings it to

work out what is important

at Gleneagles, followed by The Ledbury in

life, and they love to visit the independents.

to them. With restaurants

Notting Hill. For the past decade I’ve been

I’ve met Thinus Krüger from FRAM: he’s

there is often a different

an account manager at FMV, Boutinot and

a journeyman who enjoys exploration

hierarchy, and turnover of staff

Swig.

and discovery. He knows grapes and how

can be higher, and so it’s more

to let them shine. I’m meeting Simon and

difficult to maintain a continuous

My first step into the wine trade was

Tamra from Kelly Washington Wines in

relationship. But having that broad range of

really working for the student union

Marlborough next

accounts really works as they complement

behind the bar. As a

week. I’m already a big

each other.

student it was like getting

fan of their wines.

I once played the French horn on Fully

paid to have fun and meet people and, as part of a

I’m particularly

Booked, a children’s TV programme

university exchange, I

excited about

in the 1990s. It was with the school and

worked in a restaurant in

discovering Podere Le

we were asked to go into the TV studio in

Toronto for a few months.

Ripi from Montalcino.

Glasgow on a Saturday morning. It’s all a

I have an older cousin who

The vineyards are

distant memory but Zoe Ball was there. I’ve

is a chef and I think I can

surrounded by oak

not pursued my musical talents, even as

blame him for glamorising

and olive trees. It’s

a hobby. I don’t seem to stray too far from

the restaurant industry!

so easy to talk about

the food and drink theme in my downtime.

When I started taking

because you drink

I do run a lot, I think probably as a lifestyle

hospitality seriously as a

the wine and you’re

off-setting thing, and I am teaching myself

career, I saw three options

transported. It’s such

Italian. I recently had to play touch rugby

in which to specialise:

an exciting region and

for Jeroboams. My natural instinct was to

general management,

as a popular holiday

run away from the ball rather than towards

the kitchen or wine. I

destination it is familiar

it. Never again!

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 27

Lebanon comes to London War forced the Ghosn family out of their family home.

When they were finally able to return, brothers Sami and Ramzi created a small arak business. Decades later, it’s been transformed into one of Lebanon’s most progressive and admired wine producers.

The Wine Merchant met up with Sami on a recent visit to London to hear more about his story and to taste his wines.

A

ll winemakers have a special

the US – and I am attracted by the west.

they do. But in Sami Ghosn’s

to go, and I chose my home country.

attachment to their land, or say

case, the feeling is deeper and more

But I was able to choose where I wanted “It’s no coincidence that the Romans

visceral. When the Lebanese civil war

chose to build the Temple of Bacchus in

Beqaa valley. It was the only home the

ancestors shipped wines to the pharaohs

broke out in 1975, his family fled the

eight-year-old boy had known, and he

didn’t see it again for another 18 years.

The rest of his childhood was spent

in France, followed by a spell in the US.

When peace returned to Lebanon, so did Sami, and with his brother Ramzi he set about transforming the old family farm into a wine estate.

Now a father of four, Sami’s connection

with the land he works is rooted in his

own family story, but also the antiquity of the region.

“There is so much history around

us,” he says, pouring wines on a visit to

London, his favourite city. His two young daughters have made the journey with

the Beqaa valley or that our Phoenician of Egypt and to the Greeks. The first miracle of Christ, turning water into

wine … Lebanon is the only wine region

mentioned in the Bible. There is so much

mythology that gives us our foundations.”

There is a good reason why

winemaking has such a long tradition in this part of the world. “To make wine in Lebanon, or anywhere, there should be

passion,” Sami says. “A love of the land.

And we have all that.

“In Lebanon your best ally is nature. All

our wines are unfiltered and unirrigated.

We don’t have issues with maturity, like you would in France.

“We get snow on the vines, which is

him and are listening attentively.

the best antiseptic, after the sun. We

you. I could not just let go of that. I was

everywhere. We are fortunate enough to be

“There are so many layers grounding

fortunate to grow up in France and live in

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 28

have no fungus and you can plant vines

in a place where your worry is not nature.”

In association with UK importer Thorman Hunt Contact Thorman Hunt on 0207 735 6511 or visit www.thormanhunt.co.uk Visit www.massaya.com for more details about the wines and history of Massaya

S

ami feels that coverage of Lebanon’s challenges has tended towards

the negative. It is, he maintains,

it’s our own understanding, our own evolution driving us.

“I’ve moved on from too much oak for

“a very vibrant country”: a melting pot

the reds, I’ve moved on from small oak

religious traditions peacefully coexist.

tastes.

of humanity, where myriad ethnic and That said, ISIS briefly attempted to

occupy some of his land near the Syrian border a few years ago, and even today

he feels compelled to alert the Lebanese army when he’s planning to be active in those vineyards.

barrels. We’ve gone totally with our own “When you’re sitting in Lebanon, it’s

usually sunny. When you’re eating by

the Mediterranean, fish or goat meat, or something like that, you don’t want an

overpowering red. Our wines are much more approachable. We make and sell

wines that resemble our culture and our dolce vita.”

A snapshot of the Massaya range Massaya Blanc (RRP £21.50)

Massaya Terrasses de Baalbeck (RRP £27.50) This single-vineyard wine comes from the foothills of Mount Lebanon, more than 1,000 metres above sea level, where the soil is chalky clay. The long, relatively mild summers are a viticulturist’s dream.

Sami pours two examples, the first from 2020 and the second from 2019. The extra year in the bottle has added a deeper, darker element to the wine, a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, but the herbal freshness is still very much intact.

it, with the cow horns. We’ve always

Jeremy Hunt of Thorman Hunt believes that Massaya’s white wines “have been getting better and better and better”. This blend of Clairette, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Vermentino, along with the local variety Obeidi, bears him out.

“We produce this wine at altitude, about 1,700 metres from sea level,” Sami says. “My father acquired this land, overlooking the highest-altitude Roman temple in the world, and never thought we’d have a winery there.”

Fermented in large foudres, the wine is fresh and rounded, with pleasing floral notes.

the land; we put down grass to keep the

Massaya Rosé (RRP £19.20)

Massaya takes a biodynamic approach

to farming. “We grew up like this, from our grandmother and then our mum,” Sami says. “We worked with the lunar

calendar for a long time before we called it biodynamics. We always pruned and

harvested and bottled looking at the lunar

calendar. Sometimes we delay our bottling by 15 days because of the lunar calendar.

“Now my brother is going deeper into

been organic. Now we don’t even plough moisture in. We make our own compost

with our own grapes and put them back on the land. Being biodynamic is not a method. It’s a feeling.”

M

assaya’s first bottlings were

arak, the aniseed-flavoured spirit beloved across the

Middle East, and it remains a core

element of the portfolio. But wine now dominates production. There are two

illustrious French partners in the business: Dominique Hebrard, a former co-owner of Cheval Blanc, and the Brunier family of le Vieux Télégraphe in the Rhône.

With this guidance, Massaya was able to identify the terroirs and varieties

that would yield the most impressive

results. Most Lebanese wine owes a debt to French know-how, but Massaya has

gradually evolved its style as winemaking confidence has grown.

“No one dictates anything,” says Sami.

This popular 100% Cinsault wine demonstrates the rewards of patience when it comes to rosé winemaking.

“There’s a fixation with many in the wine trade to just rush the vintage,” says Simon Thorpe MW of Thorman Hunt. “I think people are paranoid about wines beginning to oxidise and it just doesn’t happen very much unless the wine is not substantial.”

Sami nods. “If you release it by Christmas, it’s rosé on steroids, basically, and you take too many risks.” So Massaya’s rosé is bottled after eight months, once the snow on Mount Lebanon has melted. “It has acidity, backbone and minerality,” he says. “It’s proper wine and it improves with time.”

Massaya Le Colombier (RRP £17) An unoaked blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Tempranillo , which is served slightly chilled. That’s exactly how Sami would encourage us to enjoy it on a Lebanese beach and it works just as well on a summer evening in central London, accentuating the aromatics. There’s spice and pepper to enjoy, but most of all the simple, unadulterated fruit flavours.

It’s a refreshing, sociable wine that is designed to be enjoyed young. “You can taste the soil of the Beqaa valley,” Sami says.

“We make the wines: it’s our own tastes,

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 29

Massaya Cap Est (RRP £42) This arid, high-altitude site in the extreme north east of Lebanon is special to Sami. “It’s magical, this place,” he says. Despite the area’s security complications, he adds that “I wish all my vines were planted there”.

The terroir is unlike Massaya’s other sites and yields are very low. The wines it produces have a natural freshness, even after 22 months in foudre, thanks to the altitude and exposition; the Grenache, which makes up 50% of the blend (the rest is Mourvèdre), is also picked early. It’s a wine that has a generosity of spirit but an underlying steeliness, inviting comparisons with its producer.

Massaya Arak, triple-distilled from Obeidi grapes and flavoured with green aniseed, is a staple of the Massaya range. Presented in a Phoenician blue bottle, it’s a versatile aperitif, digestif and cocktail ingredient. (RRP £36)

RIAZ SYED

degree of acidity and subtle white pepper.

On the outskirts of Palau, at the Tenute Filigheddu winery, all the wines are organic and aged in steel. The Vermentinobased whites are fresh with some tropical fruit notes, almond and a hint of honey.

Their red, also aged in steel, is a blend of

Second Thoughts Music sounds great in a wine shop, and even better in a Sardinian winery

local grapes – Muristellu, Cagnulari and Caricagiola – which combine to show red and black fruit, some liquorice notes and soft tannins.

B

efore the wine tasting, Cantina Depperu hosted Spanish guitarist Raul Cantizano, who played 60

minutes in the midday sun while most of

H

the audience scrambled to find a piece of

ave you ever thought of combining

loud for conversation. For me, it worked

shade. Raul is quite possibly one of the

music and wine? “Yes,” I hear you

well. I wasn’t so sure I would place a live

most innovative musicians I have ever

say, in perfect harmony.

musician in an outright wine retail outlet

seen: every inch of the guitar is used, as

There is a natural synergy between the

as a regular event, but as a one-off feature

well as a number of household objects, to

two. The obvious link would be to have a

to support a tasting, it could generate a

create special effects. A battery-operated

glass of wine whilst listening to a piece of

new cohort of customers.

fan with the rotating blades placed on the

of making the place welcoming, ever aware

I

strings to imitate a violin, then he deadens

Mediterranean, the influence of wine is

on each side of the body and shakes the

that, for some people, visiting a wine shop

significant. Two of the concert locations

instrument from side to side, a handful of

for the first time can be an intimidating

were in wineries, Cantina Depperu and

plectrums placed inside the body of the

experience. I was at the Jeroboams Chelsea

Tenute Filigheddu.

guitar to create the sound of maracas.

music that connects with your mood at that moment.

For a brief period, I used background music for my old shop in Barnet as a means

n September, I visited the Isole che

the strings with Blu Tack to create a harp,

Parlano festival in Sardinia. Established

and he ends with a more visual effect as

to celebrate arts and music around the

he holds the guitar aloft, placing his hands

branch last night where they were playing

The region’s dominant white grape is

The performance that caught most

Led Zeppelin at a gentle volume. I guess

the Vermentino. At Depperu, the whites

people’s attention wasn’t based in a

Page and Plant are local residents.

are clean and fresh, aged in steel before

vineyard but the rocky cove of Punta Tegge

Apart from investing in a half decent

bottling and with citrus fruit notes. The

on the island of La Maddalena, featuring

audio system and speakers, the Barnet

second grape planted on their lands was

Rome-based one-woman band Lili Refrain,

premises was registered with PPL PRS

a surprise. Nebbiolo was imported from

whose haunting music echoed across the

at an annual cost just shy of £400. The

Piedmont in the 19th century, and shows

waters and into the sunset.

fee varies depending on the location and

the classic profile of red cherry fruit with a

Lili recently played a European tour with

business size and it’s a small price to pay if

The Cult so does have profile, but she is no

there is demonstrable proof that music is

rock musician. For each song, she plays a

having a positive impact.

tribal drum pattern which is recorded as

The benefit of background music may be

a loop. She then layers on percussion and

hard to quantify, but those who go to the

keyboards to create a mantra reminiscent

next stage of incorporating live music as

of the Cocteau Twins. I actually missed

part of a hybrid bar/shop are much more

the performance and have only seen a

likely to see a positive impact.

recording taken by a friend on their phone, but I still bought her current album Mana

I recently visited Oak N4 in Finsbury Park, north London, which hosts live

on the strength of that footage.

music nights in its hybrid location.

So, if you’re thinking of hosting a music

When I was there on a Sunday night,

event and are looking for artists, I strongly

there wasn’t a spare seat in the house.

recommend Raul Cantizano. But if you can

The musician played an acoustic guitar and the overall decibel level wasn’t too

book Lili Refrain, you might want to warn Photo: Noemi Usai

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 30

your neighbours first.

HALLGARTEN CONSUMER RESEARCH

Let's meet our customers A survey of 1,185 people who buy wine from independent wine shops shines new light on what attracts them to this channel – and what could be done to persuade them to come back more often

A

consumer survey conducted by Hallgarten

have not shown as being popular when it comes to

& Novum Wines has provided some insight

decision-making. Perhaps these elements are being

into the reasons shoppers choose to buy their

viewed as less important when it comes to buying

wines from independent retailers.

choices in the current economic climate.

The supplier collaborated with research expert

“It’s the same with packaging. In the trade we

KAM to survey 1,185 consumers, to find out what

talk about bottle weight a lot, but do we think bottle

influences their choices and what determines their

weight is something consumers comment on? I

loyalty.

don’t think it signifies for them.”

The research shows that, with many customers experiencing reduced disposable incomes, value remains a key consideration. While that is not exactly a hot take, there are a couple of unexpected results in the data and a whole lot of information that could prove valuable to wine merchants.

The research was led by Tom Bennett, customer marketing manager at Hallgarten, who admits to being a little surprised by the fact that 32.6% of the shoppers surveyed say they are influenced by awards, as indicated by a medal on the bottle.

Conversely, and again perhaps contrary to the general perception the trade has of consumer habits and motivations, organic and biodynamic

S

o, who are these shoppers and how were they

“The survey results reflect our belief that the level of customer engagement offered in the independent sector is key to their success”

credentials do not score highly in importance.

surveyed?

As a hospitality and consumer research

insight agency, KAM has access to a huge number of people it can survey digitally. It was able to focus on 1,185 individuals who identified as regularly buying their wine from independent wine merchants.

The parameters were clear: an independently owned, bricks-and-mortar wine shop and not an online-only retailer, and not a multiple such as Majestic. Images of a typical independent, including shop fronts and interiors, were supplied for the benefit of those surveyed. It was specified that

According to the survey, 48% of shoppers are

retailers such as The Wine Society, Laithwaites and

likely to make a decision based on in-store staff

The Sunday Times Wine Club were not within the

recommendations, while 20.5% are influenced by

scope of the study.

coverage in magazines or newspapers.

Bennett and the Hallgarten team consulted

“We always knew that the advice and

several of their independent customers to create

recommendations shoppers get from the indies

the questionnaire for KAM to work with. “We

would feature highly,” says Bennett, “and the

have so much trade data,” says Bennett, “and as

survey results reflect our belief that the level of

the consumer research tends to come from the

customer engagement offered in the independent

supermarkets, there is a real lack of research into

sector is key to their success.

consumer habits when it comes to buying wine

“We talk about the success of sustainable, organic

from independent specialist wine retailers. We

and biodynamic products in the trade all the time,

asked the indies what they wanted to know about

so we can’t understand why these credentials

their customers.”

Continues overleaf > THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 31

HALLGARTEN CONSUMER RESEARCH

Gender Men and women tend to want the same things Although historically it has seemed useful to analyse shopping trends according to gender, Tom Bennett says it’s now less relevant to separate male and female behaviours. Shopping habits are “more an attitude or state of mind,” he says.

The data does show some minor differences in the answers given by men and women, but what really stands out is

What influences your wine purchases in a specialist wine shop?

Taste description on bottle/shelf

55.9%

Awards/medals on bottle

32.6%

Appealing label design

21.7%

Sustainably made

17.6%

New wines

13.7%

Organic

11.8%

Eco-friendly packaging

9.0%

Display in shop/window

8.6%

Vegan/vegetarian

6.0%

Biodynamic

4.9%

None of the above

19.7%

It’s interesting that respondents are slightly more likely to be influenced by friends and family than recommendations by the person selling the wine.

But it seems clear that merchants have an opportunity, through a mixture of staff, signage and other forms of direct customer engagemen,t to support and nudge customers outside of choices based purely on price or habit.

Aside from the expertise independents have to offer, the study shows that the main reason customers continue to shop with them is to support small businesses.

the similarity of responses in pretty much

This is a trend that blossomed during

every section of the the research.

Covid and hasn’t really faded. The desire

There are a few quirks. For example, women seem to attach slightly more

Why do you buy from specialist wine shops?

importance to the sustainability

to buy local most likely contributes to the finding in this report that a quarter of consumers choose to buy English wine.

credentials of a wine, men are evidently

Supporting small businesses

45.2%

marginally keener than women on new

A personal treat

30.5%

taste and flavour profiles, the survey

world wines and respond a little more

Better quality

30.4%

demonstrates that the independent wine

enthusiastically than women to taste

Good advice

29.5%

shop customer is aware of what they like,

descriptors such as “full-bodied” and

Buying a gift

26.4%

has prior experience to call upon and the

“rich”.

accompanying vocabulary.

When it comes to conversations about

Special occasion

25.6%

But again, the main talking point is how

Local/convenient

24.5%

The most popular descriptors were

much consumers seem to have in common

Rapport with staff

23.5%

smooth, easy-drinking, crisp, dry and

regardless of gender. Four in 10 women,

Discover new regions and styles

21.2%

fruity. Yet minerality – a word seemingly

for example, look for the word “smooth”

Tastings and events

13.8%

ubiquitous in the trade – was flagged by

when choosing a wine – an identical figure

only 6.4%. “It’s true that we use that word

to that recorded for men.

so much,” says Ben Jackson at Hallgarten.

“But perhaps we over-estimate the time it takes for some words and trends to reach the end consumer, and a customer using the words smooth, fruity or dry to describe what they like will make themselves understood.”

What recommendations influence your buying choices?

Searching for something smooth

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 32

Friends & family

55.7%

In-store staff

48.0%

Magazine/newspaper

20.5%

Other online

12.2%

TV/online

11.8%

Social media

8.5%

None of the above

18.5%

Repeat business How indies can keep customers coming back Loyalty schemes (54%) and instore events (42.4%) emerge as the

Wine types Bring on the Malbec and the Sauvignon Blanc

most effective activities to persuade

The survey found that 75.9% of

With those surveyed spending an

customers to visit shops more often.

Half of those surveyed were of the opinion that independents definitely

Where else do you usually buy wine from?

Supermarkets (in store)

68.0%

Discounters

31.3%

Online wine clubs

21.5%

Supermarkets (online)

19.9%

Specialist wine chains (in store)

15.2%

Convenience stores

8.9%

Specialist wine chains (online)

8.2%

deliver on value for money.

Unsurprisingly, supermarkets continue

respondents buy red wine in specialist

average of £14.53 per bottle (a figure that

to be the largest competitor channel

wine shops, followed by white (61.9%)

falls slightly below The Wine Merchant’s

for indies, along with the discounters Aldi

and sparkling (41.5%).

2023 reader survey figure of £15.75),

and Lidl. The survey also indicated that

and £11.08 on average on a bottle

convenience is the top reason someone

likely to buy red wine in a specialist

from a supermarket, the report asks:

would buy wine from a supermarket

retailer than a supermarket.

“Hypothetically, if this is the same bottle

instead of visiting their neighbourhood

of wine, how does the in-store experience

bottle shop.

Forty per cent say they would be more

France and Italy are the most popular countries of origin but there are eight other countries that more than 20% of

create £3.45 of value?”

As a supplier which supports retailers with its in-store tastings and events,

customers say they buy from.

Malbec was shown as the most popular

Hallgarten is confident that this theoretical

red grape variety and Sauvignon Blanc was

£3.45 of value is easily met by indies

the white grape of choice.

through the additional customer engagement and personal rapport that

Which red grape varieties do you buy in specialist wine shops?

Malbec

56.6%

Merlot

49.4%

Shiraz

42.8%

Cabernet Sauvignon

40.4%

Pinot Noir

39.4%

Tempranillo

31.9%

Grenache

19.3%

Which white grape varieties do you buy in specialist wine shops?

generates long-term loyalty.

Many merchants have experienced a fall in volume since the huge uptick in sales during Covid. Indeed, this survey shows that 40% of customers are buying less than they were 12 months ago, but of these, only 19.2% are buying wine from other shops.

Most (57.9%) are trying to save money and 34.1% are deciding to drink less in order to be healthier.

23% also buy from shops such as Majestic

Indies are already ticking the right boxes, says survey chief Tom Bennett says the biggest take-

for giving added value through those

away from the research is that the

experiences and interactions.

Sauvignon Blanc

58.8%

independent sector is already doing all

Pinot Gris/Grigio

46.0%

the right things in order to thrive.

is encouraging to be able to say to the

Chardonnay

30.3%

Merchants are growing awareness

independents that they are doing a

Chenin Blanc

25.9%

and increasing wine education through

really good job,” he says. “The indies are

Viognier

24.1%

constant dialogue with their customers.

very important to us, and this data will

Riesling

23.7%

Tasting events and loyalty schemes

help us to support them. By sharing the

Albariño

14.1%

ensure their continuing relevance on the

information we have collated, it helps the

high street and enhance their reputation

trade overall.”

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 33

“In a difficult economic climate, it

A taste of Moldova

Moldova may be the most significant wine country you’ve never heard of, and is home to Central and Eastern Europe’s most successful producer, Purcari Wineries Group, judged by the number of international medals the group has won for its wines. Caroline Gilby MW explains why this little wine country is worth exploring through the lens of award-winning wines from Chateau Purcari

The country

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Moldova deserves to be on the radar of anyone looking for the next story and great quality new wines for their customers. It has more vineyards in commercial production than better-known countries like New Zealand, Austria and Hungary, more grapevines per person than anywhere else in the world, and an industry based on modern winemaking know-how. The country is on the eastern edge of Europe, surrounded by Romania to the west and Ukraine to the east. Vines cover the rolling hills in every direction, and the rich black soil overlying limestone bedrock offers great terroir. The climate is largely continental, moderated by the Black Sea which brings elegance to the wines, especially in the south eastern region of Stefan Voda, where Chateau Purcari is located.

Wine is a way of life here, and today’s wine industry can offer the kind of bright, elegant wines that consumers in the UK enjoy. Moldova has significant areas of international grapes, which are the mainstay of exports – and can showcase how good the terroir is for precise, bright whites, rosés and fine reds with good varietal expression and fresh acidity. At the same time, interest in local varieties is growing for the unique characters they

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 34

can offer in a crowded wine world. Look for names like Viorica, Feteasca Neagra, Rara Neagra and Feteasca Alba, all native to this region.

The group Purcari Winery Group consists of Chateau Purcari as the flagship along with sister winery Bostavan, noted for modern, great-value wines; and the Bardar distillery for brandies and Divins (the Moldovan name for aged grape distillates). In Romania it owns Crama Ceptura and has recently acquired Angel’s Estate in Bulgaria. The group’s aim is to put Central and Eastern European wines in more glasses all over the world and build a reputation for exciting but good-value wines.

The flagship: Chateau Purcari Moldovan wine has been highly regarded for centuries and, in 1827, a decree from Tsar Nicholas I established Vinaria Purcari as the first specialist winery in Bessarabia (the name of today’s Moldova back then). It won its first international gold medal in a blind tasting at the World Wine Fair in Paris, which attracted attention from Russian nobles and even Queen Victoria. This history shows an amazing track record, though sadly interrupted by

highlights included the aromatic lychee, herbal and honey-scented Viorica 2022 (RRP £15.95) which would make a “great aperitif or spicy food wine”; and Chateau Purcari Alb de Purcari 2019 (RRP £24.95), described as a “fascinating white blend, enjoyably drinkable and really well balanced”.

On the red side, awards went to Rara Neagra 2021 (RRP £15.95) as a “great value Moldovan red, soft, full spicy aromas, refreshing vibrant fruit” and to the Limited Edition 2020 Saperavi (RRP £19.95), “lovely juicy weighty style; good complex wine for the price”. Awards also went to the sophisticated Cuvée de Purcari Rosé sparkling (RRP £29.99); the “refined and serious” Freedom Blend 2019 and the iconic Negru de Purcari 2019.

a difficult Soviet era.

Since the 2000s, when the almost 200-yearold winery was privatised and totally renovated, Chateau Purcari has become a beacon for wine excellence. Founder and CEO Victor Bostan is a trained winemaker and he understood from the beginning that vineyards were key to delivering quality consistently. Chateau Purcari has its own 300 hectares of vines close to the winery, on a hillside just a short distance from the Dniester River and the border with Ukraine. Vines are monitored plot by plot, so after nearly two decades, the winery understands what each patch of land can produce.

Even though Bostan is a winemaker, he has always been open-minded about seeking help where required, working closely with Federico Giotto of Giotto Consulting for still wines, and Jerome Barret from Champagne for sparkling wines. There’s also a new sustainability project including solar panels, lighter bottles and sustainable viticulture, with part of the vineyards already in conversion to organics.

The wine icons If anyone has ever heard of Moldovan wine beyond good-value, but anonymous, white varietals, the name that springs to mind is Negru de Purcari.

Today, this wine is the jewel in the crown of Chateau Purcari. After that famous medal in Paris in 1878, then collectivisation, the blend was recreated in the 1950s based on Saperavi, Cabernet Sauvignon and local Rara Neagra (which helped save Rara Neagra in the face of a wave of international grapes).

Chateau Purcari relaunched Negru de Purcari with the 2003 vintage, based on that old recipe.

It’s a selection of grapes from the best parcels, handpicked into crates and matured for 18 months in the historic cellar in top-quality oak from Seguin Moreau. Typically, Cabernet Sauvignon is around 55%, providing the backbone, classic tannin structure and ageability, with 40% Saperavi contributing juicy, vibrant black cherry fruit and spice, and Rara Neagra making up the remainder, with strawberry notes adding a subtle berry note and silkiness to the mid-palate. It’s a showstopping wine that can age for a decade or more.

Moldovans are a warm-hearted people and Chateau Purcari’s Freedom Blend symbolises this.

The winery opened its doors to Ukrainian refugees when Russia invaded, and the country welcomed more refugees per person than anywhere else.

Its first edition was the 2011 vintage to celebrate 20 years of independence for three former Soviet republics and its message of standing up to oppressors still resonates. It blends Saperavi originally from Georgia, Rara Neagra from Moldova and Bastardo from Ukraine in a dark, juicy and supple wine – in the winery’s words, “a courageous blend … it has the heart of Georgia, the terroir of Moldova, and the free spirit of Ukraine”. All profits are being donated to charities supporting Ukrainian refugees.

Noroc to discovering Moldova through its leading winery.

The awards Chateau Purcari was the most successful winery from Central and Eastern Europe at Decanter World Wine Awards 2023, picking up three gold medals for its Saperavi Academia 2020 (made in amphora), Saperavi Limited Edition 2021 and Maluri de Prut 2021, a blend of local Feteasca Neagra and Rara Neagra that celebrates the reopening of bridge crossings between Romania and Moldova. Saperavi may not be strictly native but has long since been adopted in Moldova and offers a juicy, velvety and vibrant style in Moldova that is distinctly different to Georgia’s. Chateau Purcari is also building a focus on local grapes like Feteasca Neagra (originating in the Moldovan Hills) which offers an Italy-meetsBordeaux style, and the supple, berry-fruited elegance of Rara Neagra. The winery also won 11 silver medals which shows the amazing quality and consistency that Moldova can deliver.

Great results in The Wine Merchant Top 100 in spring 2023 add to the quality story. White

Federico Giotto, chief oenologist

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 35

Merchant Profile: Grape to Grain, Prestwich

LEARNING ON THE FLY Tom Sneesby’s background is rooted in spirits and the on-trade. He has no formal wine education and has had to hone his retail skills as he goes along.

He’s obviously a talented student, because his Grape to Grain business in north Manchester, which opened in 2016, has established a devoted following

By Nigel Huddleston

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 36

“the general public will actually pay for stuff, whereas the industry people are just used to getting things for free”.

But it was as a wine shop customer that he experienced the epiphany that led to the establishment of Grape to Grain, the hybrid he now sole-owns in north Manchester’s Prestwich suburb.

It was a visit to the first incarnation of Harvey Leonard’s in the Peak District town of Glossop that provided the spark.

“I loved that place,” says Tom. “It was liked being tucked into this little ergonomic snug. Everything was piled up around you and you sort of fit inside it – whatever they could squeeze into this spectacularly impractical space. It felt like this wonderful tapestry of wine that was constantly changing.

“You turned around and you were knocking over Portugal, and over there you’ve got Burgundy. It felt really cosy, homely, with delicious wines and superfriendly service. That was the inspiration to open this place.”

Tom opened the Prestwich store in June 2016 with Joannes “Barry” van Goethem, and they added a second at Ramsbottom, 10 miles to the north, in December 2017.

Barry has since left to work for Morgenrot, but is still a frequent visitor, as Grape to Grain is one of his accounts.

The Ramsbottom outlet closed earlier this year as a belated casualty of the pandemic.

Tom Sneesby, Prestwich, September 2023

What was it that grabbed you about wine, having

I

been in the cocktail bar trade?

convinced him that he wanted to be a game

and it’s “look how good I am, I’ve made this fancy

warden. Lacking the A-level grades for a degree in

cocktail for you”. Whereas with wine, if you open a

zoology, he enrolled at Salford University to study

bottle and you have anything about you, you pour

wildlife and practical conservation.

for everybody else before you pour for yourself. It’s

t could have been very different for Tom Sneesby.

I love wine because it’s exceptionally egalitarian.

A pre-university gap year in South Africa

With cocktails, somebody presents you with it,

“I turned up thinking this is going to be my launchpad,” he says. “I’ll be the guy with a rifle over his shoulder wondering round the Kruger National Park at dawn – but instead I was in a Lancashire forest looking at lichen on trees.”

Disillusioned, he ditched the course and started working in Manchester bars, “waiting tables, slinging cocktails and that kind of carry-on”.

He founded an on-trade consultancy firm called The Liquorists with a friend, and they soon started doing consumer-focused events as well because

“I love wine because it’s exceptionally egalitarian. It’s the great leveller.

You share a bottle of wine, but you make a cocktail to have for yourself”

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 37

the great leveller. You share a bottle of wine, but you make a cocktail to have for yourself.

You can sometimes have that exclusivity of the maroon-trousered brigade, but I don’t have any particular antipathy to them. We wouldn’t have this section of the wine world if it wasn’t for that section of the wine world. I can’t compete with their knowledge and decades worth of contributions to the industry. It’s just quite unrelatable to people of my generation. Wine doesn’t need to have this standoffishness.

So what’s your approach?

You can start talking about malolactic fermentation,

A packed agenda for September

reverse osmosis and hybrid barrelling and most people will glaze over because that’s about “wine is exclusive, wine is expensive and you’re too stupid to know about wine”.

The complicated stuff is there, and if you want to nerd out, I’ll nerd out with you, but I’m much more fascinated by the stories … the fact that the Bordelaise hated Napoleon and didn’t want to be part of his French experiment because it meant they couldn’t sell to the English who bought more claret than anyone else, and then the Dutch sold to the English and made all the profit, so the Bordelaise hated the Dutch as well. Those sorts of things are most fascinating.

Most people in this industry know more about wine than I do. I’ve no qualification in it. I went to my first WSET and said I tasted something and they said, “no you don’t”. I thought: “I don’t need to be here.” I bow to other people’s depth of knowledge, but the ability to pass on that knowledge is our job, working in wine. Trying to translate WSET into

friendly, unassuming introduction to the incredibly

human.

varied and exciting world of wine. If you don’t know about wine, don’t worry – that’s why we’re here.

Why did you think a wine shop would work here in Prestwich?

Why was being a hybrid important?

There wasn’t one … but there was everything else.

Because getting the planning on opening just a bar

A good harbinger is quality coffee. If somebody is

would have been too difficult, complicated and

prepared to pay four quid for a flat white, or invest

expensive.

their time into watching someone using a V60 pourover, or interested in the blend of coffee they’re

That would have been the preference, would it?

drinking, they’ll also invest in a better-than-bin-end

That was our background. Retail was always

wine. There was a place here – and in Ramsbottom

difficult to get our heads around. Even now, it’s still

actually – that did city centre quality coffee, which

a learning process. Dressing a venue for retail is

was a signifier.

very different from doing it for hospitality. Impulse

And that could easily be applied to craft beer or

purchases and pricing structures have been 100%

craft cocktails, or something where the provenance

learnt on the fly. We continue to make mistakes all

of food is important … but coffee is the best

over the place. I’m sure someone with more retail

example.

experience could walk in here and tear us to shreds.

How important is the “Grain” bit to the concept?

Grape was first in the name and first in the concept.

The main focus is giving people the opportunity to try delicious wines and do it with them. With backgrounds in hospitality, we always knew there was more than just wine to go at and, for a long time, the business was propped up by gin and tonics, but that’s faded away. The background with The Liquorists was always focused around spirits and cocktails, but we tried here to offer people a

“Most people in this industry know more about wine than I do. I’ve no qualification in it. I bow to other people’s depth of knowledge”

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 38

What gets a wine on the list?

Barry, who remains a great friend, was always the wine guy and I was the other guy. So what we stocked used to be very much on the whim of what the managers fancied having in.

I’ve moved to a more stable stocking policy to try and be consistent with the offering. Maybe some of the guys who worked here liked the churn of always having something new, but customers would come in and ask for things they enjoyed before and they

weren’t there anymore, so they were immediately disappointed. The exclusive wine experience is shoved right down their throat again. That was the liferaft they were clinging to: “I remember that wine; I remember how it made me feel when I drank it with my partner or my friends.”

That always infuriated me because I put myself in the shoes of that customer who’s plucked up the courage to come into a wine shop and they’re presented with a blank face.

I’m striving for a more consistent offering and to upskill all of the people who work here to be better able to talk about it, rather than be reliant on

“The kids who work for me are some of the hardestworking, most conscientious, diligent and loyal people you could possibly hope to come across”

much they know, you reap the rewards enormously.

It’s impossible to provide that level of investment if you’re changing up the stock every three months because you’re bored with looking at stuff.

Is there any wine that’s absolutely not on your radar?

Nebbiolo!

Why’s that?

Because I’m a child and the tannin is too abrasive for me. I’m just not sophisticated and grown-up enough to have matured into Nebbiolo.

a couple of people who know a hell of a lot about wine, and a few who don’t know anything.

So what does excite you?

I like Tuscan wines. I went to Tuscany last year, to

How’s the team looking now?

Fontodi, Poggio San Polo and Fattoria dei Barbi in

People complain an awful lot about Gen Z being

Montalcino, all of which were gorgeous. So much of

lazy or uninterested. Most of the time it’s because

Tuscany is wild land. I love wine countries that are

employers don’t take any interest or invest in

beautiful and landscaped but there’s something about

them. The kids who work for me are some of the

Tuscany that is a little bit more wild.

hardest-working, most conscientious, diligent and loyal people you could possibly hope to come

Do you have go-to suppliers?

across, let alone have the privilege of having them

Liberty is the main portfolio we work with, swiftly

work for you. If you just invest in improving how

followed by Morgenrot because of the connection

The Spirits Room is now a separate brand within the Caviste business, with its own website, but the bricks-and-mortar element remains central

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 39

Not a Nebbiolo in sight: “I’m a child, and the tannin is too abrasive for me”

“There are loads of good places in Prestwich, like Wine & Wallop over the road. The idea that too many places can open up and take business away from you is a fallacy”

with Barry who obviously knows the business very well. He was able to work with us to fill the gaps that Liberty has with some really cool,

no longer ship anything to Europe. That which had been going very well shrivelled to nothing.

Ramsbottom itself has died an absolute death.

interesting stuff. Liberty has a big range of

It’s really painful to watch. You take it all very

producers of excellent, reliable wines, like Mitolo,

personally: how could we have handled this

Rolly Gassman and Bodegas LAN. You can be

situation better? But there were some genuinely

confident that what you pick up and open is going

outstanding operators there closing at the same

to be delicious.

time as us: Levanter and Baratxuri, two outstanding pinxto and tapas places, that were featured in the

What was the story behind the Ramsbottom closure?

Observer Food Monthly.

The only reason we closed Ramsbottom two

Barry left last year because the business couldn’t

months ago as opposed to 12 months ago is because

support us both. It’s all a hangover from Covid.

I was able to reduce opening hours to two and a

We were able to be fairly agile [in the pandemic]

half days a week, do it all myself and not pay myself

and switched to an online model, but Ramsbottom

a wage. If I’d had a kitchen brigade, a team of full-

remained closed for months. We traded at Prestwich

time staff, we just wouldn’t have been able to do it,

from the front door when we were able to.

because the turnover in Ramsbottom reduced to

We did tastings online and probably crammed

zero.

in 500-600 individuals in 2020. We were shipping wine all over Europe because the investment bank

Does Prestwich benefit from an evening

Nomura had their new influx of interns spread all

drinking circuit?

across the continent. Then Brexit hit and we could

Prestwich thrived when Ramsbottom nosedived

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 40

because there, the gravitational pull that justified people ordering an Uber and going in disappeared after Covid. There are loads of good places in Prestwich, like Wine & Wallop over the road. The idea that too many places can open up and take business away from you is a fallacy. You need to have enough to drag people in there, because people don’t always want to go to the same place week in, week out – and they certainly don’t want to go to only one place.

Did the Covid experience change your attitude to the off/on balance?

During lockdown it was much more important to have the retail element to the business. Part of the reason we got into trouble was we didn’t adapt enough. We were still staffing at a hospitality level when we should have been doing so at a retail level. If we were being really frugal and ruthless we would have told everyone to stay at home and get all of the furlough that was coming to them. But these were our friends as well as our colleagues and we didn’t want to see them languishing away at home, bored to tears, living a miserable life, so we dragged people back to do stuff.

Has the experience put you off expanding?

A wannabe game warden turned shopkeeper

There’s always a desire for growth. The direction of that? My attitude has slightly changed. I want to get this place as slick and streamlined as possible

You have some interesting wine quotes on the

with a stocking policy we stick to and a consistent

walls: Ernest Hemingway, Basil Fawlty, Tyrion

level of knowledge for everyone who works here. If

Lannister …

we did want to open a second site it would be with

Tyrion Lannister’s from Game of Thrones. Even our

a less fluid, more stable model that we could build

young staff give you blank looks these days if you

on to.

talk about Game of Thrones. It’s already ancient history. And they have no idea who Basil Fawlty is …

Has online remained important?

but my demographic of customers do.

It’s faded away because we were in a desperate attempt to keep chins above rising waters on the bricks and mortar side. It’s a shame, but our customers’ purchasing habits shifted from online to in-store and wanting to have human interaction.

Even though we did some good numbers online during lockdown and a huge number of tastings, the Amazon effect is that people expect an order to arrive the next day and that’s incredibly expensive to sort out logistically, without ripping your margins out. How are we supposed to deliver free on orders nationwide when a delivery through UPS can vary between £7 and £11.50 for next working day delivery?

“The Amazon effect is that people expect an order to arrive the next day and that’s incredibly expensive to sort out, without ripping your margins out”

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 41

Poppy stands by to advise on Portuguese reds

JUST WILLIAMS

Does Provence smell sweeter than the Creek?

Pernod Ricard is ready to sell off some of its biggest selling wine brands. But the argument that wine can’t fit into an international business based on a portfolio of luxury goods doesn’t necessarily hold true, says David Williams

J

acob’s Creek is one of the biggest wine

Viejo, for a total of US$1bn.

brands in the world. It sells more than

Even if the expected sale comes to

6 million cases a year, is the number

spirits brands do. According to wine brand managers at big firms I’ve spoken to over

nothing, it’s hard not to interpret Pernod

the years, there are plenty of reasons

one wine brand in Australia, has been

Ricard’s periodic attempts to offload

for that. Wine’s traditional audience has

among the UK best sellers for decades, and

its wine brands as a lack of interest in

always been more resistant to lifestyle

regularly comes top of consumer polls of

the sector. A brief look at the numbers

marketing. The yearly fluctuations of

most recognised wine brands.

helps explain why that might be the case.

vintage make it hard to build a consistent

It’s profitable, well-distributed,

Despite containing two of the world’s most

year-to-year product in the way you can

and, compared to most of its closest

successful and biggest-selling brands, wine

with whisky, gin or rum. It’s hard to scale

competitors in the big brand scene, has

accounts for just 4% of Pernod Ricard’s

up, particularly at the really top end, and

a pretty good reputation for making

annual turnover. It’s no surprise that it’s

retain quality; consumers shop more by

decent quality wine. Critics don’t tend

not a priority.

regional name or grape variety than brand

to diss Jacob’s Creek in the same way as

But then, there’s a sense, and not just at

they do Gallo Barefoot; it has never been

Pernod Ricard, that wine is always going to

synonymous with the bottom end in the

struggle to find a home in a multinational

way that Blossom Hill has been.

premium drinks business. Wine just

… the list of excuses goes on.

Creek’s owner Pernod Ricard is seriously

S

looking at selling the brand, along with the

always operated on different rules to the

It seems curious, then, that Jacob’s

rest of its Antipodean wine division, which includes another ostensibly successful name, New Zealand’s Brancott Estate.

The decision to explore a sale, first reported in the Australian Financial Review, marks the second time the French company has tried to get shot of some or all of its wine division in the past four years. In 2019 it put the whole lot up for sale, including Rioja behemoth Campo

simply doesn’t work in the same way as

uch arguments would be convincing enough were it not for a couple of glaring exceptions. The first and

most obvious is Champagne, which has

The received wisdom that the Champagne trick is unrepeatable has been challenged in recent years by the emergence of Provence rosé THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 42

rest of the wine sector, almost to the point where it’s not regarded as wine at all.

Its brands are marketed (and discussed, shared and recognised) in ways and places and by people that are far beyond the world of the wine connoisseur but without, somehow, alienating the wine connoisseur, who would never turn down a glass of Dom Pérignon or, for that matter, vintage Moët.

That much is obvious. And Pernod

LVMH is taking a keen interest in Provence following the success of Whispering Angel

Ricard is unlikely to offload either Mumm

pay as much attention to the packaging as

feels like it belongs more to the perfume

or Perrier Jouët. But the resilient received

the wine, and, perhaps most importantly

than the wine world, and brands such as

wisdom that the Champagne trick is

of all, get that bottle into places (music,

Miraval, Minuty and Aix are developing a

unrepeatable has been challenged in recent

fashion and film industry parties; among

similar level of brand recognition among

years by the emergence of another case

the insanely wealthy and influential

the kind of people who may, ordinarily, not

study: Provence rosé.

residents of the private Caribbean island

drink wine at all.

The man who deserves most of the credit

of Mustique). Finally, watch as the word

No wonder, then, that LVMH has taken

for this is Sacha Lichine, the mastermind

of mouth translates into a high-margin,

such a keen interest in the region, the

behind the remarkable phenomenon that is

million-case brand.

world’s biggest Champagne producer

wine that raises expectations about quality

O

having bought out Lichine at d’Eslcans

element of unpredictability and fortune

decision made by Pernod Ricard in recent

and, crucially, price (in Lichine’s case this

about the rise of d’Esclans.

years will prove rather more significant

Château d’Esclans.

Lichine’s model, which he started to apply in 2006, was remarkably Champagne-alike. First, establish a top-end

f course, it’s not as simple as

as well as adding Minuty and Château

that. And of course, as with all

Galoupet in the past couple of years.

successful brands, there was an

To me that suggests that another

was Garrus, which now retails for around

Nonetheless, it has led to a kind of

than any deal it may strike on Jacob’s

the same price as a Champagne prestige

Champagne-ification of Provence over the

Creek. In March last year the company

cuvée). Next, introduce a higher production

past 10 years, both in terms of the way

actually added its to wine holdings, as

brand that borrows some of that cachet at

the products are conceived and marketed

it acquired a majority stake in Château

a lower but still eye-catchingly premium

and the people who drink them. Like

Sainte-Marguerite, a cru classé rosé

price (Whispering Angel). In both cases,

Champagne, Provence rosé sometimes

producer in, you guessed it, Provence.

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 43

“I

t doesn’t feel like England” is a phrase uttered more than once as we admire heaving bunches of

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes, and gaze down upon the sloping vineyards towards saltmarsh and shimmering river.

Yet England this most certainly is, and we’re in a county that could hardly be more English, or indeed maligned for being so.

Jancis Robinson described the Crouch Valley as England’s answer to the Côte d’Or, which might come as news to the denizens of Basildon, Chelmsford and

Why Essex is England

Southend, but not to the farmers who first started to see the area’s potential a couple of decades ago. Or for Lyme Bay Winery, based a five-hour drive away in Devon,

There’s been a lot of excitement surrounding the Crouch Valley lately, The Wine Merchant teamed up with Lyme Bay Winery to bring a group

but which relies on Essex fruit for much of its still wine. It’s largely thanks to the encouragement and support of managing

allowed us to mitigate the risk, so we

the driest and sunniest places in the

director James Lambert, who first started

weren’t just buying fruit from vineyards

UK mainland, rarely affected by frost in

working with Crouch Valley farmers in

in Devon. It allowed us to be more

the growing season and sheltered from

2016, that the area has become one of

ambitious. Our mission is to produce the

brutal north east winds. But its real secret

England’s winemaking hotspots.

best wines from the best grapes grown in

weapon is the heavy Essex clay. It’s a

the best vineyards by the most passionate

problematic soil for cereals, but the way

growers.”

it soaks up and gradually releases water

Lyme Bay began as a cider business, planting its first vines in 2010.

“In 2015, we started working with

The business “always wanted to focus

growers around the UK,” James says. “It

on still wines rather than sparkling”, James

to grapevines is now proven to yield

explains. “The UK can make some world-

impressive results.

class sparkling wine. Still wine, until 10

The folklore about picking grapes 100

years ago, was almost viewed as a sort of

days after flowering doesn’t apply here. It’s

by-product of English sparkling wine.”

more like 110 days: last year the harvest

W

began on November 2. That extra hang e start our visit at Crow’s Lane

time ensures the fruit achieves the kind of

Estate, just outside South

ripeness that wouldn’t necessarily matter

Woodham Ferrers, where

for sparkling wine, but which is crucial if,

the Pinot Noir is looking healthy in the

like Lyme Bay, your ambition is to make

early autumn sunshine. This shouldn’t be

top-quality still wine.

surprising: as viticulturist Duncan McNeil

Pinot Noir grapes steadily progress to ripeness

(along with some useful trace elements)

As Duncan points out, this extra

(pictured right) tells us, this area achieved

vineyard time adds to costs,

the ripest Pinot Noir in England in 2020,

and there are additional

with a potential alcohol of 14.6%. That

expenses involved in the way

was despite almost a third of the expected

the vines are trellised and

annual rainfall arriving in the space of five

managed. When he first started

autumn weeks.

working with Lyme Bay, he

The Crouch Valley is actually one of

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 44

assumed that the brief would be

Left: Crow’s Lane Estate

Merlot. Graham says he’s still assessing the progress of these experiments, which were really his cousin’s project. Roy died unexpectedly in June. “He would have been so annoyed,” Graham jokes, sadly, reflecting on how much of the Crouch Valley’s potential is still to be realised. It seems unfair that Roy won’t get to enjoy the next chapter.

Most of Martin’s Lane’s grapes are sold

d’s still wine capital and much of it stems from a producer based miles away in Devon. of indies to the area to see what makes it so special for viticulture

to Lyme Bay, but the Martins bottle a small amount under their own label, mainly for the local market.

O

ver lunch at Crouch Ridge Vineyard in Althorne we meet owner Ross Lonergan and our first growers

from south of the river. Ümut and Katie Yesil once ran a PR company together but are now growing grapes on Katie’s

to deliver grapes for sparkling production.

high levels of ripeness,” adding: “We have

dad’s farm. He’s a third-generation arable

Some recalibration was required, not least

to accept that the yields will go down in

farmer, more accustomed to seeing

with clonal selection.

certain vintages.”

wheat and feed beans on his land than

greeted by Graham and Caroline

Like Graham Martin, the couple sell most

focusing on high yields rather than the

O

grapevines. But he’s said to be delighted

Martin. Graham’s late cousin Roy Martin

of their fruit to Lyme Bay but bottle a small

highest quality.”

was something of a viticultural visionary,

amount under the Riverview name.

As James points out: “When growers are planting things like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay they are usually planting clones that are good for sparkling wine,

Duncan agrees. “If we’ve got premium

ur next stop is nearby Martin’s

with the Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot

Lane Vineyard, where we’re

Gris that now thrive there.

persuading the couple, along with a small

vineyard sites, we should be planting

band of fellow investors, to take the plunge

premium vineyard clones,” he says.

with the south-facing plot back in 2009.

James says that Lyme Bay “incentivises growers very strongly to achieve really

“We bought a 30-acre patch of land that hadn’t been farmed since the end of the Second World War,” Graham tells us. “We

The Crouch Valley is one of the UK’s driest and sunniest places, rarely affected by frost in the growing season and sheltered from brutal north east winds. But its real secret weapon is the heavy Essex clay

took some advice from people who said it wasn’t a good site for a vineyard, and planted anyway.”

Most of the vineyard, which rises to 50 metres at its highest point, is planted to the Champagne varieties; originally the plan was to make fizz, but the ripeness of the fruit persuaded the Martins to switch to still wines.

There’s some Pinot Gris and Bacchus too, and some experimental blocks of Cabernet Franc, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 45

James Lambert takes us through the range

THE ESSENCE OF ES Lyme Bay Winery Bacchus Block 2022 (RRP £21)

They’ve released their second vintage and are planting more vines, having impressed a number of independent merchants, as well as The Wine Society, with their early efforts.

Duncan McNeil is excited by these kinds of developments. “Fifteen years ago, ‘Crouch Valley’ didn’t mean anything to anybody,” he says. “Now in the English wine industry it’s become a very well recognised name or terroir.

Caroline and Graham Martin of Martin’s Lane Vineyard

“We’re starting to get small-scale production of local wines and I see a lot of similarities between the Crouch Valley and Central Otago in New Zealand, where I worked 20 years ago. There was

had it in their family for a long time.”

Although the idea of a Crouch Valley PDO

a recognition that they had the climate

remains controversial (the local vineyard

and they were getting the results and I can

association would be happier with a

remember the small-scale producers just

simple trademark) there are potential crus

starting out.”

beginning to emerge, such as Stow Maries,

Graham Martin points out that, in this

Battlesbridge and Althorne.

corner of the English wine industry, much

“If Lyme Bay hadn’t encouraged us to

of the groundwork has been done by local

grow the grapes you wouldn’t have these

landowners. “It hasn’t been done with City

wines,” says Duncan. “I think it’s great if

money but by the farmers themselves,” he

we also have small-scale local labels as

says.

well. Then the region doesn’t just become a

“People know the land because they’ve

vineyard region, but a wine region.”

“I think we’re all getting a better understanding now of how to make a good Bacchus,” says James Lambert. The variety has racy gooseberry acidity when underripe, and tropical, floral characters when overripe. “You have to avoid the beige bit in between,” he says. Or, as is the case here, blend the two styles together.

The fruit comes mainly from Martin’s Lane in what proved to be a very good year. The wine is fresh, with a faint petrol note, and some lovely rounded fruit.

Lucy Harris of South Downs Cellars in Sussex is not usually a Bacchus fan. “But I really like it,” she says. “It’s got so much personality. It’s got a start, a middle and a finish and some just don’t.”

Lyme Bay Winery Chardonnay 2021 (RRP £24)

Here James is looking for “body and richness”, though not big alcohol. “I think the days of really heavy 14.5% syrupy Chardonnay have gone, with a few exceptions,” he says. “The 11.5%12.5% style is very much in vogue.”

There’s balance and complexity to the wine, which is sourced from five Crouch Valley growers. It has seen a blend of new and old oak and gone through malolactic. Weirdly, the more aromatic Chardonnay clones failed to yield enough viable fruit in 2021, so in this vintage the style is slightly different, and perhaps more traditional.

Lyme Bay Winery Pinot Noir Rosé 2022 (RRP £20)

James believes “the UK is uniquely placed to make some really good rosés” and this one, made with 80% Crouch Valley fruit from largerberried clones specifically selected for the style, makes a convincing case. It spends up to 12 hours on its skins, and does not go through malolactic. It’s all about freshness and texture.

Lyme Bay Winery Pinot Noir Reserve Rosé 2022 (RRP £23)

Katie and Ümut Yesil of Riverview, on the south side of the Crouch

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 46

The style here is more gastronomic, with the residual sugar dialled down to 3g/l and oak playing a subtle supporting role. “It’s a style we really like,” says James. “Are we completely happy with it? No. But we’d like to see how far we can push it.”

James is clearly on a mission to perfect the style but to our guests it already seems like an accomplished wine. “Sommeliers would have

SEX lots of fun with it,” says Philip Amps of Amps Wine Merchants.

Lyme Bay Winery Pinot Noir 2021 (RRP £29.99)

In 2020, the winemaking team separated out every clone and every parcel and fermented them separately. The learning from that exercise was then applied to 2021 (when the harvest came three weeks later), which became a kind of field blend. The wine underwent malolactic in barrel. James explains how the yeast was tricked into producing glycerol, giving the wine its appealing mouth feel. It’s very approachable now, and is likely to hold up until at least 2028.

Lyme Bay Martin's Lane Vineyard Chardonnay 2020 (RRP £35) James explains that Lyme Bay's single-vineyard wines aren’t necessarily meant to be better than the rest of the range. He just wants them to have “a sense of somewhereness”.

This IWSC trophy-winning example is made with aromatic clones, prized for their consistently high level of ripeness and textural qualities, pressed straight to barrel without settling first. It’s deliciously oily, with toasty and nutty characters.

“I would be quite comfortable in saying to someone, here’s an alternative to Meursault and you’re saving yourself £10,” says Philip Amps.

That’s a revelation to me – that’s really good.”

Lyme Bay Winery Martin's Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir 2020 (RRP £45)

“No expense is spared, no corners are cut” with Lyme Bay’s single-vineyard wines. This one, which earned a rave review from Jamie Goode, undergoes malolactic fermentation in barrel before more oak ageing. The alcohol weighs in at a balanced 13%, though without evaporation it could hit 14.5%. “I don’t think we would want to go any higher than 13%,” says James.

Merchant musings “The conversation with Duncan about the uniqueness of the terroir was fascinating; how they are only just beginning to understand what the clay does to help them. With the low chance of frost, it is a special microclimate. The vines looked super healthy: no sign of ill health or stressed vines anywhere we went. The two single-vineyard Pinot Noirs from 2020 could have been from Central Otago, with intense fruit, complexity and a long finish.

Just think how good these will be when the roots are properly down in the ground and the winemakers have 10 vintages behind them!”

Philip Amps, Amps Wine Merchants, Oundle “I first started visiting English vineyards in 2014 when I wrote my Master of Wine thesis on English vineyards, and the story ‘Financier leaves the City to start a vineyard and make

Lyme Bay Winery Crow's Lane Estate Pinot Noir 2020 (RRP £45)

Made with the ripest Pinot Noir available to Lyme Bay Winery, the wine ages in 60% new oak and has won praise from Jancis Robinson.

The obvious comparison is with Burgundy, but that would perhaps miss the point a little. With its freshness and red fruit flashes, as well as its deeper bass notes, it’s a Pinot that puts down a marker for English wine, with its own distinct sense of place.

the best English sparkling to rival Champagne’ is fairly common. Of course you need a lot of capital to start a vineyard and I’m not naïve about that. And, importantly, the quality of English sparkling can be truly excellent. But it was a refreshing change to meet so many who had farmed arable crops previously and gradually moved over to still wine production. It’s an entirely different viewpoint and English wine is all the better for a diverse mix.”

Vicki Stephens-Clarkson MW, The Little Fine Wine Company, London

Produced in association with Lyme Bay Winery lymebaywinery.co.uk 01297 551355

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 47

FOCUS ON FORTIFIEDS

stronger stuff Fortified wines have been hit by a disproportionate duty increase which will do nothing to help the category this Christmas. But there are plenty of reasons why merchants should continue to get behind port and sherry, as David Williams reports

W

ith the exception of sparkling wine and

But given the already wafer-thin margins that many

no/low producers, the new, abv-tracking

fortified producers are currently working with,

duty regime has been a hugely unwelcome

asking punters to cover the cost may be the only

development for wine businesses, with its timing

choice they have.

in the midst of generationally high rates of inflation and a brutal cost-of-living crisis only adding to the

Opening the table wine Fladgate

feeling that a teetotaller-led government really

Earlier this year, the Fladgate Partnership, Fells’

doesn’t like or understand wine.

eternal rival as the leading British port shipper,

But the changes have been particularly tough on

hosted a dinner marking the 650th anniversary

fortified wine. When the new rates came into effect

of the signing of the Anglo-Portuguese Treaty,

on August 1, duty on a traditional 15% abv bottle

the longest continuous alliance between two

of fino jumped by a whopping 98p – or 44% – to a

countries anywhere in the world. The celebrations

total of £3.21; for ports, with abvs around 20%, it’s

were a reminder of just how significant the £80m

a 43% rise of £1.30 and a total duty of £4.28; and

UK market is to port producers, and specifically

for those products that come to the upper limit of

premium port producers with strong British links.

fortified wine at 22% it’s a 58% rise adding an extra

It was hard, then, not to wonder if the current

£1.72 and a total duty of £4.70 per 75cl bottle.

state of play in the UK fortified market may

With none of the staggered introduction that has

have played a significant part in shaping the

at least given some breathing space to producers

developments that led to one of the biggest stories

in the 11.5% to 14.5% bracket (where a blanket

in port this year: the Fladgate Partnership’s

20%, 44p rise has been applied until February

acquisition of table wine producer, Ideal Drinks,

2025), fortified producers have been left to cope

from the Portuguese luxury goods entrepreneur

with a price shock that, as Fells executive chairman

Carlos Dias.

Steve Moody puts it, “will drive a coach and horses

The deal takes in the full Ideal Drinks inventory:

through these fragile supply chains”.

its brands, wineries and more than 200ha of

It has also left both producers and importers such

vineyards. What marks the deal out from any of

as Moody with an almost-impossible dilemma. Do

the many table wine acquisitions involving port

they take the hit on margin? Or do they pass the

producers in recent years, is that the Fladgate

costs onto an increasingly cash-strapped consumer

Partnership had always resisted the move into table

base? The latter, certainly, is a huge risk, given

wine and was the last of the big port producers to

that the £300m British fortified wine market saw

stick exclusively to fortified wines.

a 10% drop in volume and 7.4% in value in 2022.

How much of an effect the deal will have on the

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 48

The island of Symi, in Dodecanese

cap

Fladgate Partnership’s port operation remains to

more-than-respectable finos at around £7.50 a

be seen, however, given that none of the vineyards

bottle when duty accounts for almost half the shelf

acquired from Ideal Drinks are in the Douro. But

price is a question for someone much smarter

the likelihood is that the name of at least one of

with a calculator and a spreadsheet than this

the Fladgate Partnership’s historic port brands – Taylor’s, Fonseca and Croft – will grace a label of table wine from somewhere in Portugal sooner rather than later.

A good age Given the range and extent of price pressures, producers are inevitably finding it tougher to make the sums add up at the lower end.

Some are still ploughing away sub-£10 – although how the major supermarkets are able to offer

It’s not at all surprising that much of the excitement in the fortified sector is focused on higher, and sometimes very much higher prices

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 49

correspondent.

It’s not at all surprising, then, that much of the excitement in the fortified sector is focused on higher, and sometimes very much higher prices.

This is a part of the market where price sensitivity is much less marked, and where fortified wines’ remarkable ageability is often at the heart of the marketing matter.

In sherry, that can mean examples of older age statement blends, such as Valdespino’s VOS and VORS Collection series, which includes the Wine

FOCUS ON FORTIFIEDS

Merchant Top 100 Fortified Trophy-winning Don

single-quinta and single-plot bottlings.

Gonazalo Oloroso. Or it can mean single-vintage

Serious port enthusiasts are likely to be most

Añada wines, such as Gonzalez Byass’ acclaimed

excited by a rare appearance of the Symingtons’

series (including last year’s 1975 Gonzalez Byass Palo Cortado Añada) or Lustau’s 125th-anniversary series, which took in a 1996 Añada Vintage Sherry.

Port shippers, meanwhile, have been targeting the lucrative collectors’ market with sometimes exceptionally venerable cask-aged ports, with standouts including Taylor’s Very Very Old Tawny Port, a blend of wines going back to before World War II, and Graham’s ultra-limited edition Ne Oublie, a wine from 1882 aged in cask for 130 years.

Port shippers have been targeting the lucrative collectors’ market with sometimes exceptionally venerable cask-aged ports

“micro-terroir” Graham’s The Stone Terraces Vintage Port, with the 2021 only the fifth edition of a series that began with the 2011. It’s sourced from a 3ha plot covering two old-vine vineyards in the shipper’s Quinta dos Malvedos estate, and production runs to a mere 4,800 75cl bottles and 280 tappit hens (225cl).

Other 2021 highlights included a full set (Quinta do Noval Nacional Vintage Port, Quinta do Noval Vintage Port, and Quinta do Passadouro Vintage Port) from the independent-minded Quinta do

Vintage highlights in non-vintage years

Noval, which has declared each of the past 11

The extraordinary run of great vintage port years

vintages. Explaining the latest declaration, Noval

between 2016 and 2019 came to a halt with the

managing director Christian Seely said: “The wines

2020 and 2021 vintages, neither of which led to

have a marked stylistic individuality, reflecting the

classic, unanimous declarations. But while the heat

particular conditions of the vintage; very elegant

of 2020 and the cool of 2021 may have presented

and balanced, with great finesse and very pure

a range of different challenges for growers, both

floral and black fruit aromas. Strongly aromatic,

years have yielded some exciting, small-production,

with dense firm fine tannins, the purity of the

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 50

INTERVIEW: ADRIAN BRIDGE, CEO, THE FLADGATE PARTNERSHIP

Duty is an irritant, but port sales can boom for indies The innovative Taylor’s, Fonseca and Croft port business says merchants have a wider range of options than ever to make the category a success in the festive season In association with Mentzendorff

L

ike everyone involved in the port industry, Adrian Bridge is aghast at this year’s duty hike.

“By the time you take the duty of 20%, add on a retail margin of 30% and then VAT, that now represents £6.67 of the price of the bottle of port at 20% abv, which is a very significant amount of money,” he says.

If the long-term effect of that increase is a fall in port sales, not even the Treasury will end up on the winning side, the Fladgate boss warns. So the picture is not a happy one, and yet for independents there could be a glimmer of hope.

Supermarkets stocked up on port ahead of the duty hike, meaning that this year we can expect earlier than usual promotional activity in the multiples.

“But what happens once that all passes

Golden Age: something different to colheita

Vintage styles have a place in any port tasting

through? Taylor’s LBV probably moves from being a £16 product to a £20 product. It may well lead to supermarkets promoting port less than they have in the past, which obviously, from an independent’s point of view, is good.

“I think there’s also a possibility that, if port sales drop a bit, a lot of supermarkets will probably reduce their port ranges.

But independents will be able to offer the broader range to the end consumer.”

As Bridge points out, the duty hike will have a big effect on a category like ruby port, which could move from £10 to £12 on the shelf, while a vintage port might move from £80 to £82. Nobody in the industry makes more money, but at least the increase is more manageable.

I

nnovation is at the heart of Fladgate’s philosophy. Ready-to-drink canned port products are helping to open up the market to new demographics and drinking occasions, and Taylor’s Golden Age Very Old Tawny has introduced the concept of a 50 year old port beyond the familiar colheita series.

“And at the same time we launched the VVOP category, which is very, very old port. It’s an 80 year old product and it is, undoubtedly, an expensive product, but it’s a pretty special one.

“I think it keeps a bit of interest in the category to have these extraordinary old wines, which, if they were a whisky, would be selling for tens of thousands of pounds. But as a port, you can buy them at £250 or £300.”

So what can independent merchants do to boost their port sales this Christmas?

“Mentzendorff is standing by to help,”

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 51

Bridge says. “They brought in a lot of duty-paid stock ahead of the increase. We did that so that there would still be supply for the independents which would come at a potentially lower duty rate.”

Bridge maintains that “port is a drink that everybody loves” and a well-run tasting can reap rewards for merchants.

“I would always start the conversation at reserve ruby level,” he says, “with a Fonseca Bin 27 or Taylor’s First Estate, because you get richness and robustness and good volume from those wines, which are immediately appealing to anybody.

“You then step up in complexity to an LBV, and I think I would want to show a vintage port of some sort, which could be a more expensively priced single quinta. There are some great single quintas out there, and the parcel sizes that Mentzendorff have are a natural fit for independents. I’m thinking of some of the older Guimaraens ports, and the single quintas from Terra Feita, Panascal and Roêda, all of which I think offer good value and are mature vintages now.

“And then I think that most people are interested in understanding tawny. In a bigger tasting, you might only want to do a 10 year old but it does show consumers something a little bit different.

“With that, of course, goes the serving suggestions. Bigger, full-bodied ports with chocolates and rich cheeses; the aged tawny perhaps more with creamy cheeses or crème brûlée or apple pies.”

One last suggestion: don’t forget the Croft Pink. “Obviously it’s a port that we love,” says Bridge. “People love it when they taste it, and when they taste it, they’ll buy it.”

FOCUS ON FORTIFIEDS

fruit and the elegance and balance are among the

from participating outlets’s websites.

most striking characteristics of this lovely vintage year.”

As for 2022, we’re still some way off the traditional April 23 declaration date. But, with reports from the Douro suggesting that a hot year has delivered a small but concentrated harvest of, in more than one shipper’s words, “exceptional quality”, the odds on a first universal declaration of the decade seem pretty good.

Focusing on fino The revival of sherry has been talked about for at

The second stage, meanwhile, is timed to coincide

The revival of sherry has been talked about for at least as long as some of the wines now marketed as VORS were aged in their soleras

least as long as some of the wines now marketed

with this month’s International Sherry Week, which runs from November 6 to 12.

Innovation in port The cliché with port is that it is a terminally conservative trade, with a somewhat stuffy approach to marketing that befits its rather mature customer base. But if the port world is still not totally free of the whiff of the gentleman’s club and the Oxbridge college cellar, recent years have seen it loosen its tie considerably with some genuinely creative new launches and approaches.

as VORS were aged in their soleras. But if a lasting,

Among the more striking examples is the Blend

broad-based revival were ever to take shape, you

series from Graham’s, which comprises two ports

get the feeling that the dry, lighter styles – fino and

– the white No 5 and the ruby No 12 – that have

manzanilla – would have a central role to play.

been designed to act as the base for lower-alcohol

It made sense, then, that the latest generic

alternatives to gin and tonic or spritz cocktails,

campaign for sherry launched by the Consejo

and with bottles and marketing that are very much

Regulador DO Jerez and ICEX Foods & Wines from

targeted at a younger drinker who is more likely

Spain should centre around fino, with two waves of

into premium gin than premier cru Bordeaux.

digital activity promoting the style and its food-

With The Fladgate Partnership having made

friendly capabilities.

similar moves with its Taylor’s Chip Dry &

The first stage, which kicked off in the summer,

Tonic cans, these launches show a category that

ran under the Fino for Foodies tagline, and saw

has learned to adapt. And in an age in which

retailers and restaurants encouraged to share fino

consumers (and the taxman) have never been

food pairings and recipes on a dedicated website,

more preoccupied with alcohol levels, that kind of

which also directed consumers to buy the wines

flexibility is only going to grow more important.

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 52

Versatile, vivacious Vallegre Carlos Afonso, assistant manager at Vallegre Vinhos do Porto, acknowledges that duty increases won’t exactly help port’s cause this Christmas. But he maintains that there’s plenty to attract new drinkers to the category – even those on a budget

“A

few years ago, Vallegre took

of cocktails and long drinks made with

lower the alcohol content of

Rosé (pictured), Port & Lemon, Tawny

the strategic decision to

our basic ports to 19% abv, which, while higher than still wine, is considerably

lower than spirits and therefore attracts

port wine include Porto Tonic, Porto

& Ginger, Porto Red Sangria and Porto White Sangria.

“As with all sectors, it’s important that

less duty. Our decision was both

port innovates and evolves. We continue

importantly, looking after the health of

of the consumer. Our recent launches

future-proofing our business and, most drinkers without compromising the taste of our product.

“It’s really important the consumer

to expand our range to catch the attention include our Tawny 50 Year Old, White 50

Year Old and 20 Year Old limited editions.

“Sales of these top wines will remain

understands the versatility of port: for

steady, as the duty increase only slightly

such as the classic White Port & Tonic.

may even absorb the increase. However,

instance within a cocktail or long drink These are classic drinks in Portugal, but

still relatively unknown in the UK. They

require an initial hand-sell, but are always popular when tried.

affects the final price. Some producers we believe entry-level ports will suffer

immensely as this tax increase represents a higher percentage of the final price.

“We will be working closely with

“As well as offering a lower abv, port-

Lanchester Wines to ensure we maintain

basic ports and so provide an affordable

competitive, so discounts will be difficult.

based cocktails are usually made with

drink. Port has a distinct flavour profile

that sets it apart from other types of wine: it is typically rich, sweet and full-bodied, with notes of ripe fruit, spices and, sometimes, a hint of nuttiness.

“Whether it’s a robust and fruity Ruby

or a mellow and nutty Tawny, these unique flavours can add depth and

complexity to cocktails, creating a rich

and indulgent taste experience. Examples

About Vallegre Making wine since the 19th century, Vallegre is now a fifth-generation family business.

Vallegre wines are sold and enjoyed in almost 40 countries and have earned many trophies and accolades over the years. Port is still its main focus, but its specialism in still wines continues to grow.

Vallegre comprises three estates in the heart of the Douro: Quinta de Valle Longo in Cima Corgo, Quinta da Lameira in Baixo Corgo and Quinta da Vista Alegre in Pinhão, after which Vallegre has named its port brands.

Quinta da Vista Alegre has 60 hectares of vineyards on the right bank of the Douro, at an altitude of around 250 metres. The vineyards are home to the most noble grape varieties in the region: mainly Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Sousão, Tinto Cão and Tinta Barroca, alongside some Vinehas Velhas (old grape) plots with vines over 100 years old.

our traction. Our pricing is already

Nevertheless, we continue to develop

new products and showcase our top-tier wines. Our marketing, both in the UK

and Portugal, is to educate the consumer about different ways to enjoy port. We’re trying to attract younger drinkers by

offering appealing, fresh concepts for a competitive price. We want them to try

our ports in a different light and ideally make them lifelong port drinkers.”

Feature sponsored by Lanchester Wines. Find out more: lanchesterwines.co.uk 01207 521234

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 53

www.vallegre.pt

CASTELÃO: AN UNLIKELY HERO Once relegated to a blending role, Portugal’s winemakers now produce truly special wines with this versatile variety, with the Tejo region a definite hotspot

By Dirceu Vianna Junior MW

C

astelão’s ability to adapt to diverse climate

is the fifth most planted in the country with 9,952

conditions and provide abundant yields has

hectares. It spreads from Trás-os-Montes in the north

contributed to its longstanding popularity.

to Algarve in the south, appearing in the Douro Valley,

Its capacity to withstand the cooler and humid

Távora-Varosa, Beira interior, Lisboa and Alentejo.

conditions of the north and the hot and arid

The variety does particularly well in Peninsula de

conditions of southern Portugal, whilst delivering

Setúbal and Tejo, especially in the deep sandy soils

yields in excess of 15 tonnes, has ensured that

of Charneca, where producers have discovered that

Castelão has been the most planted red grape

the quality is directly related to lower yield. Castelão

variety in Portugal for several years in recent times.

Reserva das Pedras, made by the talented Martta Reis

All across Portugal, producers have taken advantage

at Quinta da Alorna, originates from a 34-year-old

of Castelão’s generosity and for decades have

vineyard and is an outstanding example. One of the

produced wines that are light, uninteresting and a

secrets revolves around the vineyard’s small yield

little rustic, but it did not matter since the variety

which ensures excellent concentration of fruit that,

was mostly used as a blending component anyway.

when combined with gentle extraction and judicious

Since the variety was first recorded in a document

use of oak, allows the variety to express itself and its

describing the land around the town of Lamego in

sense of place superbly.

1531 and until the early 2000s, it was rare to find

Throughout Portugal, including the Tejo region,

a wine made exclusively with Castelão that made

Castelão appears mostly in blends alongside varieties

people sit up and take notice of its potential. It was

such as Trincadeira, Alicante Bouschet, Tinta Roriz,

not until just over two decades ago that producers

Touriga Nacional and Cabernet Sauvignon, amongst

started to realise that Castelão, when well managed

others. It can produce light, elegant, and easy-

in the vineyard and well treated in the winery, can

drinking wines, as well as full-bodied and more

achieve greatness.

concentrated reds that are capable of ageing for over

In that time plantings have decreased but have

a decade. Consumers who enjoy Sangiovese, Nero

always remained relevant. At present, the variety

d’Ávola, Pinot Noir or Grenache would do well to explore the diversity of styles Castelão has to offer.

Dirceu Vianna Junior MW

I

n addition to different styles of red wines, Castelão can produce delicious and refreshing rosés. Producers such as Batoreu, and Conde

Vimioso Sommelier Edition made by Falua, are excellent examples. The versatility of Castelão does not stop here. Monge Reserva Brut made by Casal Branco is a sophisticated and delicious sparkling wine exclusively made with Castelão. It displays attractive citrus fruit, a creamy texture and a vibrant underpinning freshness.

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 54

The flexibility that Castelão offers in terms of style

sites are allowed to express their full potential.

mirrors its capacity for food matching. Lighter styles

Castelão has the capacity to transform itself into

tend to work well alongside delicate dishes like

something truly special. All it needs is love.

mushroom risotto, white meat and pasta. Richer and more powerful wines can withstand intense flavours of richer stews, red meat, barbecue, and spicy dishes including those from Mexican and Indian cuisine.

Although most people may not yet associate

Published in association with Vinhos do Tejo

Castelão with the finest wines in the world, the

www.cvrtejo.pt

variety can and does produce world-class wines, especially when old vines planted on the best sandy

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 55

THE DRAYMAN

In flavour scope it’s not dissimilar to a saison: fresh, grassy, the mildly sour end of citrus fruit and a touch of spice. It’s a flavour profile that plays into the modern thirst for freshness and subtlety.

Grisette beers Not low enough in alcohol for minors, but once a refreshing choice for miners

I

t’s no coincidence that among those embracing the grisette style in the UK is Sussex’s Burning Sky, a saison

specialist, whose Jasmine Grisette has amplified floweriness on a bed of gentle spices.

But there’s another contemporary box that grisette ticks: the one marked

G

moderation. A typical abv of under 4%

risette sounds like something that

nudges it towards small/table beer

would crop up on TV definitions

territory, while offering a refreshing

panel show Call My Bluff in about

alternative to all the looky-likey pale ales

1978. It’s easy to imagine cross-combed

that are increasingly cluttering up that

anchor Robert Robinson turning to a team

sector.

comprising Patrick Campbell, Jonathan

Lancashire’s Rivington Brewing’s Which

Pryce and Joan Bakewell and asking: “So, is

Way is North? has a vivacious grassy aroma

a grisette Frank’s southern French peasant

from the New Zealand hop variety Pacifica

stew, Hannah Gordon’s bird-like heraldic

and an easy-drinking thread of lemongrass,

emblem, or Fyfe Robertson’s muscly bit in

coriander and soft bitterness running

the inner ear?”

I’m sure it will come as no surprise

Burning Sky is one of a small band of UK brewers making a grisette beer

through the palate.

It’s very early days, but expect to see

to discover that it is none of the above.

many more grisettes in the months and

Grisette is in fact a beer style that has, in a

years to come.

small but moderately significant way, been finding favour with British brewers.

Until the last couple of years, grisette

Now: Patrick Campbell and his team will recently as 2016.

So why is grisette now starting to make

was pretty much absent from the UK beer

its mark? Well, one cynical explanation

market, which had enough to be going on

might be that brewers are having to

with absorbing the latest trends from the

collectively root through the volumes

States while simultaneously reinventing its

stowed away in the darkest corners of

own beer culture. Neither was the grisette

the industry’s vaults just to come up with

particularly prolific in its native Franco-

something “new”, so exhaustive has its

Belgian borderland: an unsourced claim

exploration and cross-breeding of different

on Wikipedia suggests that there was only

styles been in the past decade.

one Belgian brewer making the style as

As you might imagine, grisette’s reinvention began in the fertile

A typical abv of under 4% nudges grisette towards table beer territory, while offering a refreshing alternative to all the looky-likey pale ales cluttering up that sector

experimentation uplands of American craft brewing, and it wasn’t long before British brewers began to latch on.

But there’s more to it than that. The beer is a sort of heavy-industry alternative to the farmhouse ales of Belgium that were produced to fuel agricultural workers toiling in the fields. Grisette was typically drunk by miners, rather than farm hands.

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 56

define gruit in three very different ways.

Viña Real: Rioja with ageability and finesse The winery may be modern, but these remarkable Rioja Alavesa wines trace their history all the way back to the 1920s

L

aunched by CVNE in the 1920s, Viña

to the Camino Real, is located in the capital

Real became one of the first wineries

of Laguardia.

to produce ageworthy wines made

hopper in Spain define this iconic structure.

Rioja Alavesa terroir is distinct due to its

At the top of the hill, sitting above

location, climate, and soils. Its vineyards

the medieval streets and churches, the

are located at high altitudes, resulting

huge Viña Real building blends into the

in cooler temperatures that aid in the

modernity has defined Viña Real’s ethos

landscape despite the modern concrete

acquisition and retention of moderate acid

ever since and today its predominantly

and stainless steel fabrication. Designed

levels and good colour. The soil is rich in

fruity wines stand out for having body,

by French arcitect Philippe Maziéres, the

chalky clay, limestone and sand.

structure, aromatic intensity and excellent

state-of-the-art winery, which was opened

Winemaking is led by Eva de Benito

ageing potential.

almost two decades ago, is shaped like an

(pictured), who has been working at the

oak vat with two tunnels drilled into the

estate since 2003, the year before the new

mountain.

winery was opened. De Benito continues

from Tempranillo in the Rioja Alavesa.

A careful balance between tradition and

Rioja Alavesa is the smallest sub-region, located between the Ebro river and the imposing rocky mass of the Sierra

Natural light, caves which were created

to make wines that reflect the authenticity

Cantabria. The winery, whose name was

to store the wine, cutting-edge technology

and finesse of Viña Real, remaining faithful

inspired by the proximity of its vineyards

and the installation of the first vertical

to its roots and its family values.

Viña Real Bakeder

Viña Real Gran Reserva 95% Tempranillo and 5% Graciano

100% Tempranillo

This Gran Reserva is made with hand-harvested

The grapes are selected from the estate’s two

grapes from the prime plots in Rioja Alavesa.

vineyards in Laguardia, San Gines and Castejones,

Malolactic fermentation takes place in French

where the average vine age is 30 years. The mostly

and American oak barrels; the wine ages in barrel

clay and limestone soils are on an elevation between

for around two years before bottling and further

550 and 600 metres. The juice is temperature

ageing in the Viña Real cellars for a minimum of

controlled in small stainless steel vats before

three years. This allows the wine to achieve its

malolactic fermentation in concrete tanks. Aged for

characteristic silkiness and elegance. There are

11 months in French oak barrels, the wine is complex

subtle notes of oak and spice on the nose, with hints

and a perfect expression of the terroir, with great

of ripe red fruits also detectable. On the palate the

ageing potential. Cherry red, with a violet nose and

wine is full-bodied and lively, with great structure

aromatic fresh red fruit, and a hint of liquorice in this

and fresh acidity.

intense Tempranillo.

Food pairing: steak served with béarnaise sauce

Food pairing: barbecued lamb

In association with Hatch Mansfield THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 57

MAKE A DATE

DO Penedès Trade Tasting Explore and taste the wines of DO Penedès with a special focus on Xarel.lo and other regional grape varieties.

Doors are open from 12am till 4pm for pre-registered guests to enjoy a selfguided walk-around of over 50 wines, from around 20 wineries, all made from varieties native to the region.

At 11am guests will have the opportunity to attend a masterclass led by Álvaro Ribalta MW and Sarah Jane Evans MW, titled Unveiling the Essence of Xarel.lo.

For more information and to register contact info@limmpr.com.

Monday, October 30

Taste Vieux Télégraphe wines at the Thorman Hunt event on November 8

Languedoc Tour Tasting

Asia House

Producers Gérard Bertrand, La Grange,

63 New Cavendish Street

Domaine des Baronarques, Domaine

London W1G 7LP

UMA, Domaine les Caizergues and

Vincent Paris, La Soumade, La Collière, Chaume-Arnaud, Les Pallières, Burle, Domaine des Bernardins, Roger Sabon, Charbonnière and Vieux Télégraphe.

For more information and to register contact vanessa@thormanhunt.co.uk.

Domaine de Malavieille will showcase

Wednesday, November 8

their wines alongside photographs by

67 Pall Mall

Georgia Glynn-Smith.

London SW1Y 5ES

Wine educator Sam Povey will be giving a talk between 2pm and 3pm.

For more information and to register contact mbourgeois@sopexa.com.

Penedès

Monday, November 6 Dovecot Studios

10 Infirmary Street Margaret River Edinburgh EH1 1LT Wine IWSC Award Winners Tasting Thorman Hunt Following the IWSC’s September visit to the region to judge its wines, attendees can discover the award-winning wines of Margaret River at this walk-around tasting.

For more information and to register contact edyta.janusik@iwsc.net.

Wednesday, November 1 67 Pall Mall London SW1Y 5ES

Rhône En Primeur Tasting Showcasing premium, artisanal wines from across the Rhône, produced

Union de Grand Crus de Bordeaux Tasting This annual tasting, created in 1973, brings together 100 members of the top châteaux based in the finest appellations in the Gironde including the Médoc, Graves and Pessac-Léognan, Sauternes, Barsac, Saint Emilion and Pomerol.

This event will showcase the 2021 vintage and is strictly by invitation only.

For more information and to register contact celine@otaria.co.uk.

by family growers, including 2022 en primeur and an edit of drinking

Wednesday, November 8

vintages.

RHS Lindley Hall

Highlights include Jean-Luc Jamet, Lionel Faury, Yves Cuilleron, Laurent Fayolle,

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 58

80 Vincent Square London SW1P 2PB

A château in vineyards near Sopot, Plovdiv Province, Bulgaria

New Zealand New Release Tasting

Wednesday, November 15 The Brunel Room One Great George Street London SW1P 3AA

This self-pour tasting will feature wines laid out by varietal, vintage, region and price point. All wines presented are produced in accordance with one of the country’s recognised sustainability programmes.

For more information and to register contact sarahs@nzwine.com.

Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Tasting The Valpolicella consortium will be showcasing producers and their wines

Tuesday, November 14 67 Pall Mall

at this walk-around tasting.

Two masterclasses will also take place,

London SW1Y 5ES

focusing on Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG. For more information and to register contact andrea.ais@hotmail.com.

Monday, November 20 One Great George Street London SW1P 3AA

Brunello di Montalcino En Primeur Tasting Franck Bijon points the way

opportunity to taste a wide selection of Brunello di Montalcino from the 2019

Franck Bijon, president of Les Crus

Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino

Bourgois du Médoc, will be updating on

together with wine journalist Walter

the next classifications at this tasting

Speller.

across the 2019 and 2021 vintages.

vintage and some Riserva wines from the 2018 vintage, in advance of their A presentation and overview of the vintage will be given by a member of the

For more information and to register contact jane@huntandspeller.com.

sessions: morning 10am-1pm and

Tuesday, November 21

afternoon 2pm-5pm.

RHS Lindley Hall

To register for your preferred time slot

6cl golden rum 1.5cl fresh lime juice 1cl sugar syrup Strawberries

release, scheduled for early 2024.

The tasting will be split into two

contact jo@bellevillemarketing.com.

Recent weeks have seen an infestation of Barbie-themed cocktails from brand owners and bars – invariably pink, naturally. There was, of course, no need to invent new pink drinks because there were plenty in existence already, including a stone-cold classic in the form of the strawberry daiquiri. In fact, so popular is it that TGI Friday’s has proclaimed it the UK’s favourite cocktail after selling a million of them in the past year. This twist supplants white rum with golden for a richer, sweeter take.

A seated, sommelier-served

Les Crus Bourgeois du Médoc Tasting

showcasing a selection of wines from

GOLDEN STRAWBERRY DAIQUIRI

80 Vincent Square London SW1P 2PB

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 59

Put half a dozen strawberries in the base of shaker and muddle. Add ice and the other ingredients. Shake and strain into a chilled Coupe or Martini glass. Garnish with extra strawberries.

The Vindependents tasting takes place on March 21

H

ave you, by any chance, been

whether there’s something to be said/

to the Guggenheim? Could you,

notsaid for just drinking gin and pulling

then, wise traveller, tell me what

out brambles rather than telling people to

I would be doing if I thought I was the

look out for the brambleleaf edge in their

Guggenheim? Ah wait a minute, this is an

gin or persuading people that the empty

important point which I’ve been reminded

Downpour gin bottle would make a nicer

of recently: we are not me unless we’re talking about the great we-ness of me-ness.

Whoops!

34. WHY AM I TALKING?

We got a review which pointed out that we weren’t the Guggenheim, which

Phoebe Weller of Valhalla’s

is accurate, thanks Rhonda M. She also

Goat in Glasgow acknowledges

table lamp than the empty Harris gin bottle.

I

have a love-hate relationship with language. Obviously I love language, I absolutely love language, I love

pointed out that we are a bottle shop. I am

the wonder of words, but

not a bottle shop. If I were a bottle shop it

sometimes resorts to mime

and the way it can punch a hole through

would make licensing difficult. Why am I

to convey the most important

your chest – but sometimes a wee (not

messages

we) picture helps more for clarity. I write

talking?

There’s a lot of bullshit talking going on.

language for thinking and communing

my tasting notes with little pictures.

My sister-in-law, a clinical psychologist,

Quite often I mime the flavour of a wine

wants to get WAIT tattooed on her arm,

in the Earth to eradicate us – but mostly

to a punter rather than pulling sense

acronyming Why Am I Talking.

the virus – from its remarkable surface?

words from my arse; dragonfruit pith,

Why are we all talking? What if, as

Yes, there’s a lot of bullshit talking going

overripe tomatoseed, burnttobacco

Frankie Boyle (him again) asks in his

on. My recent train, which wasn’t actually

pound coins from a beggar’s cup. “The

recent drug-filled murdersolving romp

delayed, flashed this sign up on the screen:

wine is *gesticulates: globe hands to

around the West End (fiction!), language

We’re sorry this service is currently running

pursed fingers, three bumps right, pinkies

is a virus within humanity, a thing that’s

behind schedule. This train has been delayed

outstretched, left foot scrapes floor*.” (Free

just destroying everything, and the

by train crew being delayed by service

table-lamp ready Harris gin to anyone who

earthgroundrootsatmosphereball (the

disruption. What. Does. This. Mean.

can guess that bottle.)

bigger we of we) is heating up like a fever

I wonder and I wonder and I wonder

I miss the ongoing flow of shite talked by Glaswegians when I’m not here, and I miss the language we’ve lost, the Evening Times seller in a kiosk on the side of the street barking incoherently, “Meemingmimessah!” and I miss the horns sounding on the Clyde on Hogmanay, great mournful hoots that really signalled the end of days, rather than the days of everyone getting out their phones out to take endless photos of fireworks almost ka-powing.

The answer to Why Are You Talking is to find out what you’re having for your lunch, the thing I say most often, multiply, daily, and whether you’ve been to the Guggenheim, because really I don’t understand.

THETHE WINE MERCHANT october WINE MERCHANT march2023 2023 6060

Your Christmas essentials from WBC As independents gear up for their busiest time of year, WBC has everything you need to present and package your festive favourites.

To see the full range of WBC products, visit wbc.co.uk

Wooden Bottle Boxes

Bottle Gift Bags

Bottle Bags Carrier

Add festive flair to your bottle gifting with

Create gift ideas for your customers by

Increase your sales with a Christmas-

our wooden bottle boxes, now with fancy

placing our bottle gift bags at the till,

themed take-home carrier bag for the full

festive designs.

making Christmas shopping that bit easier.

festive gifting experience.

Bottle Gift Boxes

Honeycomb Kit

Shredded Paper

Bottle gift boxes in a wide range of colours

Send your bottles sustainably with our

Fill up your packaging with 100%

and sizes so you can send your drinks in

honeycomb kit, 100% recyclable and made

recyclable shred and fill in an array of

style.

out of 80% recycled material.

dazzling colours.

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 61

SUPPLIER BULLETIN

gonzalez byass uk The Dutch Barn Woodcock Hill Coopers Green Lane St Albans AL4 9HJ 01707 274790 info@gonzalezbyassuk.com www.gonzalezbyassuk.com @gonzalezbyassuk

walker & Wodehouse

Ferrari Trento wins top prize at the Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships

109a Regents Park Road London NW1 8UR

Huge congratulations to Ferrari Trento which, on the 10th anniversary of The Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships – the most important international competition dedicated to sparkling wines – was awarded the title of Sparkling Wine Producer of the Year for the sixth time.

0207 449 1665 orders@walkerwodehousewines.com www.walkerwodehousewines.com

@WalkerWodehouse

The prestigious award is given to the house that obtains the highest number of gold medals in the competition. In 10 years of The Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships, Ferrari Trento has won this title six times.

Ferrari Trento won nine gold and three silver medals, with the Ferrari Brut and Ferrari Maximum Blanc de Blancs winning gold.

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 62

LOUIS LATOUR AGENCIES

Introducing the Pastures collection from Pyramid Valley Vineyards, showcasing the three great South Island appellations of New Zealand: North Canterbury, Central Otago and Marlborough.

The wines include a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from North Canterbury, and a Pinot Noir from Central Otago. Similar in style to the Burgundian village wines, these also lay

12-14 Denman Street London W1D 7HJ

claim to single vineyard and small block parcels, named after the heritage of the vineyard,

0207 409 7276

tasting on 14th November. Please contact your Louis Latour Agencies account manager

culture and people.

A small selection will be available to try at the upcoming New Zealand new release for more information or contact sales@louislatour.co.uk.

enquiries@louislatour.co.uk www.louislatour.co.uk

hallgarten wines Mulberry House Parkland Square 750 Capability Green Luton LU1 3LU 01582 722 538 sales@hnwines.co.uk www.hnwines.co.uk @hnwines

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 63

SUPPLIER BULLETIN

marta vine 2 Wells Road Walsingham NR22 6DJ 01328 641357 sales@martavine.co.uk MartaVineLtd

GOOD WINE TO SAVE THE WORLD. www.neleman.wine

hatch mansfield New Bank House 1 Brockenhurst Road Ascot Berkshire SL5 9DL

Large formats are perfect for any celebration, especially Christmas At Hatch Mansfield we have plenty of options available for you!

01344 871800 info@hatch.co.uk www.hatchmansfield.com @hatchmansfield

For further information about our large formats please get in touch: info@hatch.co.uk

Scan QR to view our list of large formats on your phone:

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 64

mentzendorff The Woolyard 52 Bermondsey Street London SE1 3UD 020 7840 3600 info@mentzendorff.co.uk www.mentzendorff.co.uk

Corimbo 2018

Corimbo I 2016

“The second wine from Ribera del Duero is the 2018 Corimbo, produced with Tempranillo from their younger and organically farmed, non-irrigated vines. It fermented with indigenous yeasts and matured in oak barrels, but now the barrels are in the background and the foreground is a mélange of wild flowers, herbs and berries with just a spicy touch. The wine feels fresher, less ripe and extracted, quite elegant and harmonious. A much more drinkable and fresh Corimbo from a cooler vintage in the Duero.

Bravo!” 94 points

“Similar to its younger brother, the top-of-the-range 2016 Corimbo I shows superbly, more old style Ribera del Duero, with power and rusticity but also elegance and balance. It has a nose that is complex and subtle, floral and spicy. It’s medium-bodied and balanced, with a chalky texture and velvety mouthfeel. It’s still a little tannic, but the tannins are fine and elegant and should benefit from some more time in bottle. This has to be one of the finest vintages they have produced in Ribera del Duero.” 95 points

Luis Gutiérrez, robertparker.com January 2023

Luis Gutiérrez, robertparker.com January 2023

For more information, please contact your Mentzendorff Account Manager

buckingham schenk Unit 5, The E Centre Easthampstead Road Bracknell RG12 1NF 01753 521336 info@buckingham-schenk.co.uk www.buckingham-schenk.co.uk

From the picturesque area of Montepulciano in Tuscany, Lunadoro is based in the Natural park of Val d’Orcia which is bursting with wildlife.

The state of the art cellar, Pagliareto in Valiano di Montepulciano, has 40 hectares of exceptional vineyards and it is a true corner of paradise.

This trio of reds crafted from Sangiovese, Merlot, Canaiolo and Mammolo grapes, make these Tuscan reds truly exceptional in both flavour and authenticity.

@BuckSchenk @buckinghamschenk

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 65

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jeroboams trade 7-9 Elliott's Place London N1 8HX 020 7288 8888 sales@jeroboamstrade.co.uk www.jeroboamstrade.co.uk

@jeroboamstrade

vintner systems The computer system for drinks trade wholesalers and importers 16 Station Road Chesham HP5 1DH sales@vintner.co.uk www.vintner.co.uk

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 66

thorman hunt 4 Pratt Walk, Lambeth London SE11 6AR 0207 735 6511 www.thormanhunt.co.uk @thormanhunt RSVP: vanessa@thormanhunt.co.uk

GCF EXCLUSIVE 1, rue Division Leclerc, 67290 Petersbach, France chris.davies@lgcf.fr 07789 008540 @FamilleHelfrich @gcf_exclusive_uk

They’re all smiles to your face …

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 67

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Fells Fells House, Station Road Kings Langley WD4 8LH 01442 870 900 For more details about these wines and other wines from our awardwinning portfolio from some of the world’s leading wine producing families contact: info@fells.co.uk

www.fells.co.uk

@FellsWine je_fells

The Wine Merchant Magazine Essential Oil ... is not yet available.

While we work on that, the only way to experience the heady, just-printed aroma of your favourite trade magazine is to get your own copy, and breathe it in while it’s fresh.

If you don’t qualify for a free copy, you can subscribe for just £75 a year within the UK.

Or you can read every issue online, as a flippable PDF – just visit winemerchantmag.com.

There’s no registration, and no fee. And, sadly, no aroma.

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Email claire@winemerchantmag.com for details.

richmond wine agencies

RWA launches new indie exclusive spirit range: VRSD VRSD was founded as the answer to a set of classic consumer questions. What spirit do I buy? What one is good value? What one tastes good? What one works well in my

The Links, Popham Close Hanworth Middlesex TW13 6JE 020 8744 5550 info@richmondwineagencies.com

@RichmondWineAG1

favourite cocktail?

The idea was simple – to create a range of spirits across the board that consumers can trust to work perfectly in their favourite cocktail or mixed drink. And so VRSD was born.

Founders Varun and Jamie have nearly 20 years’ experience in the drinks trade, creating brands and marketing wines and spirits. At VRSD they have a strong set of values, which have been at the forefront of everything we do since day one.

• VRSD No 1 Gin • VRSD No 2 Rosso Vermouth • VRSD No 3. Vodka • VRSD No 4 Kummel NEW

Contact us for prices

AWIN BARRATT SIEGEL WINE AGENCIES 28 Recreation Ground Road Stamford Lincolnshire PE9 1EW 01780 755810

Discover more wines

UNDER

£15 RRP

orders@abs.wine www.abs.wine

@ABSWines

For further information contact your Account Manager or visit our website

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 69

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liberty wines

New additions showcase Spain’s rejuvenated wine scene We are thrilled to welcome three new names to our Spanish portfolio this month. From

020 7720 5350

around Lanciego in Rioja Alavesa come the Bodega Lanzaga wines by Telmo Rodríguez,

order@libertywines.co.uk www.libertywines.co.uk

urged him to take a Burgundian approach to Rioja, different to that laid out by the Consejo

whose innately rebellious character and experience in Burgundy, Bordeaux and the Rhône Regulador. Telmo and his friend Pablo Euzkia focus on ‘regional’, ‘village’, ‘premier cru’ and ‘grand cru’ expressions – thus reimagining the style of Rioja and making this Bodega one of the most exciting in the region.

@liberty_wines

Can Sumoi is a collaboration between Pepe Raventós of Raventós i Blanc and his childhood friend Francesc Escala, whose recovery of an abandoned estate in the mountains of west Penedès has been a labour of love. Certified organic and vinified with minimum intervention, their two whites, a rosé, a red and a sparkling wine made from native varieties such as Xarel-lo, Montonega and Sumoll display a hallmark freshness that is the signature of this high-altitude site.

Producers like Finca Sandoval, founded in 1998 by Victor de la Serna on the slopes of the Cuenca mountains, have been fundamental to the revival of the overlooked region of Manchuela. With new owners and talented Valencian winemaker Javi Revert at the helm today, their vibrant, soulful wines showcase native Bobal from venerable old vineyards, Syrah from selected limestone-rich plots, and lesser-known local varieties including Marisancho and Albilla de Manchuela.

top selection 23 Cellini Street London SW8 2LF www.topselection.co.uk info@topselection.co.uk Contact: Alastair Moss Telephone: 020 3958 0744

Redefining Argentinian Fine Wine

@topselectionwines @tswine

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 70

Q&A

brilliant set-up for girls; they are also very supportive of community activity. The kids love going as you’re almost on the pitch and there’s a great atmosphere. So inspiring that I’ve started playing social football with them. I also love Roger Federer.

“My husband says I’m the best audience because I laugh at everything”

Who’s your favourite music artist?

Too difficult to say. I like all sorts, and I am a bit of a closet Lionel Richie fan.

Kate Goodman Reserve Wines, Manchester

Any superstitions?

Magpies, walking under ladders, find a penny, no umbrellas inside or shoes on table … you name it, I’m superstitious! I need to have a serious word with myself at times. I know it’s ridiculous.

Who’s your favourite wine critic?

My go-to when I’m researching anything is Jancis Robinson. I’ve worked a few times with Oz Clarke: his enthusiasm, energy and knowledge are second to none. I’ve always enjoyed reading Matt Walls’s work too.

What’s your proudest moment?

My business is 20 years old this year and I’m quite proud of creating and running a healthy company for that amount of time.

Born in 1974, Kate Goodman established Reserve Wines in 2003, starting with a shop in West Didsbury.

Her early YouTube appearances were noticed by the BBC and earned her a slot as Good Food’s resident wine expert, but her focus is firmly on her business, which now has six sites across Greater Manchester.

in long meetings, I probably talk too much and am too impatient.

What’s the first wine you remember drinking?

My dad was given a bottle of GevreyChambertin. We drank it on Christmas Day and he served it with great pride; I can still remember how excited we were to share it.

Neither of us had ever tasted anything like it and we were blown away. I knew it was the start of something for me.

What’s the best book you’ve read recently?

Still Life by Sarah Winman, a beautiful, descriptive book about love, friendship and family, amongst other things.

What job would you be doing if you weren’t in the wine trade?

I always fancied being a diplomat. I think I had a romantic image of travelling, speaking different languages and fancy reception parties. In reality, I’m not good

How do you relax?

I love aperitif time of the day, sitting with family or friends, a negroni in hand and some good wine and food to follow. I love a good training session or some competitive sport. It’s a good way of clearing the mind.

Give us a Netflix recommendation.

I enjoyed Black Mirror and Queen’s Gambit.

My daughter and I watched the teen series Atypical: it enabled us to inadvertently acknowledge some tricky subjects.

Do you have any sporting loyalties?

I have great admiration for our local football club, Altrincham FC. My daughter plays for them and they’ve created a

THE WINE MERCHANT october 2023 71

What’s your biggest regret?

I wish I had had the opportunity to learn to ski when I was young, when I wasn’t worried about breaking bones, as it would have saved me a lot of pain (physically and mentally). I would have liked to have spent a year working at a winery ... but I guess there’s still time for that.

Who’s your hero?

My parents. Hardworking, honest, good senses of humour and unfailingly supportive.

Any hidden talents?

I consider myself a jack of all trades, master of none. My husband says I’m good with people and the best audience because I laugh at everything.

What’s your favourite place in the UK? When we were kids we always went to Devon or Cornwall for our holidays because we all loved surfing, so I am very fond of that part of the country. I also spent a lot of time in Whitley Bay as it’s my mum’s hometown and it holds a lot of precious memories. I love to breathe in the sea air.

If we could grant you one wish …

For my nearest and dearest to live long, healthy and fulfilled lives.

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