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FOUR FESTIVE SUMMER RECIPES
Our local AGAVE PLANTATIONS
ESTATE
MUSCAT MUSINGS
PAARL
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COVER STORY | DORNIER
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EDITORIAL DIREC TOR Colin Collard EDITOR Kari Collard ART DIREC TOR Taryn Breetzke
Private Collection Sauvignon Blanc 2021 Our Sauvignon Blanc vineyards are planted on the highest slopes, on the cooler South-West facing aspect of the hill. Here, the vines benefit fully from the cool ocean breezes and produce expressive wines, with elegant minerality. Experience an inviting nose with aromas of pear, papaya, gooseberries, and kiwi fruit that leads to a palate with beautiful concentration and texture. This wine recently received a 93 rating from Michael Fridjhon (Wine Wizard).
WINE BUYER / PUBLISHER Natalie Collard WINE TASTING COORDINATOR / ASSISTANT TO BUYER Dean Townsend REGUL AR CONTRIBUTORS David Biggs & Irina von Holdt (articles)
“The idea with this wine is to balance the natural minerality and greener notes we get from our cooler sites, with beautiful tropical flavours from our slightly warmer and more exposed vineyards.”
OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Malu Lambert & Clifford Roberts (articles) Lorraine Lines (Consultant)
DIRK VAN ZYL, SAXENBURG WINEMAKER
CONTAC T ADVERTISING call on 021 492 4211 or email natalie@wineofthemonth.co.za. WINE DELIVERY OR WINE ORDERS call 021 492 4211, fax 086 674 3966, or email info@wineofthemonth.co.za. WRITE TO THE EDITOR: Email us on cheers@wineofthemonth.co.za or write to The Chairman, Connoisseur, P.O. Box 30, Constantia 7848. Send press releases via email to taryn@wineofthemonth.co.za. All contributions are edited for space and style. FACEBOOK: @wineofthemonthsa TWITTER: @WotMSA INSTAGRAM: @wineofthemonth
TERMS AND CONDITIONS FOR BAGLIE T TI COMPE TITION Open to entrants in South Africa over the age of 18 only. The prize is non-transferable. The prize is valid for 6 months after the winner has been announced. The prize cannot be redeemed for cash. Winners will be drawn at random. If the winner has not responded to our announcement, via their contact details provided, within one month of the competition’s closing date, SA Connoisseur will send the prize to the next available winner. Employees of Converge (Pty) Ltd, SA Connoisseur, their families, their agencies, SA Connoisseur contributors, and any other parties associated with the competition may not enter. Closing date of the competition is 30 March 2022 and the judge’s decision is final.
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A division of Novus Holdings
South African Connoisseur is published every alternate month by Converge (Pty) Ltd, Capricorn Boulevard South, Capricorn Business Park, Muizenberg, Cape Town, 7945. © Copyright 2020. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Liability. While every care is taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views and opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Converge (Pty) Ltd, the publication or the publisher.
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Polkadraai Rd, Kuils River, Stellenbosch | E. info@saxenburg.co.za | P. +27 21 903 6113 @SaxenburgWineEstate
@SaxenburgWine
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38 10 CONTENTS 05 WHAT’S ON? EVENTS IN AND AROUND SA 06 WINE & DINE: WHAT’S NEW IN FOOD AND DRINK 08 COVER STORY: TAKE A TRIP TO DORNIER 10 YOUR WINE-INSPIRED SUMMER GIFT GUIDE 12 PAARL UNDISCOVERED: WHY THIS WINE ROUTE IS A MUSTSEE 22 EASY ON THE EYE: BEAUTIFUL DESIGN MEETS FINE WINE 26 MALU LAMBERT ON ALL THINGS MUSCAT 32 DAVE BIGGS ON SOME OF HIS FAVOURITE WINE LABELS
34 PROSECCO: TAKING NOTES FROM THE ITALIAN WAY OF LIFE 38 CLIFF ROBERTS EXPLORES A LOCAL AGAVE PLANTATION 40 STEENBERG’S TASTING ROOM GETS A REFRESH 41 FOUR FESTIVE SUMMER CHERRY RECIPES TO TRY 46 YOUR WINE QUESTIONS ANSWERED 49 IRINA VON HOLDT REPORTS ON THE LATEST PANEL TASTINGS 54 CONNOISSEUR’S CHOICE—A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY 59 SPOTLIGHT: THE KRUGER FAMILY RESERVE RANGE 60 DAVE BIGGS ON HOW TRUE LOVE ALWAYS WINS
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FOUR FESTIVE SUMMER RECIPES
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Inside DORNIER
Our local AGAVE PLANTATIONS
ESTATE
MUSCAT MUSINGS
PAARL
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Festive cherries p.41
SUMMER LOVIN’
Summer Gifts p.10
Muscat musings p.26
Designer Wine Farms p.22
Hooray it’s almost the holidays! Yup, we’re looking forward to some fun times with friends and family, as well as some muchneeded downtime as the year comes to a close. To celebrate all the festive shenanigans and the wonderful warm weather this time of year, we’ve packed this issue with all the good stuff … winefarms to visit, gift guides to inspire, and recipes to whip up. Ready to dive in? First up, Malu Lambert is on the scent of MUSCAT as she discovers all there is to know about this sweet variety. Here, Malu unpacks the Cape’s long history of this cultivar, planted way back in the 1600s. (p.26) From dessert wine to spirits, next Cliff Roberts visits a local AGAVE PLANTATION in the heart of the Karoo. Would you believe most of South Africa’s tequila-like agave spirit is made in the town of Ventersdorp? (p.38) From one dorp to another, rustic-chic PAARL is taking shape as a popular wine route in its own right, rivaling both Franschhoek and Stellenbosch. On p.12 we share a few of Paarl’s lesser-known wine farms and a couple of other hidden gems to visit. From tucked-away treasures to loud and proud labels, on p.32 Dave Biggs takes a look at some of his favourite WINE LABELS and the charming stories behind them. The cherry on top of this issue? On p.41 we share four delicious FESTIVE RECIPES with decadent cherries as the stand-out ingredient. Still in the holiday spirit, we’ve also included a wine-inspired GIFT GUIDE to spoil yourself or your loved ones this Christmas. From funky cooler boxes and leather wine carriers to coffee table books and sleek stemware–we’ve got you covered. Not forgetting, of course, information on all the latest and greatest in wine. Happy Holidays! Stay safe and see you next year.
Summer Vineyard Fragrance Diffuser R465 from Cape Islands, pg.10 CHAIRMAN OF WINE-OFTHE-MONTH CLUB 4
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events in and around sa | what’s on
PIVNUSHKA SUMMER DJ SERIES at Hazendal, NOW - 2 January 2022 Enjoy the soundtrack of summer at Pivnushka as Hazendal Wine Estate launch their Summer Series. Top Cape Town DJ’s will be on the decks every Sunday afternoon from 12:00 - 16:00 – providing guests with cool summer beats. Roku Japanese Gin and Jim Beam cocktails available. No bookings required and no cover charge. www.hazendal.co.za
What’s on Festivals and Events In and Around SA
Constantia Fresh Food and Wine Festival, Buitenverwachting Wine Estate, Sunday 20 February 2022 (TBC) Over the last 11 years, Constantia Fresh Festival has become one of the most loved outdoor wine events in South Africa. In the past, the event saw over 1300 people sip and sample some of the country’s finest wines on offer by 45 exhibitors, while eight of South Africa’s top chefs prepared food to accompany the wines. Setting Constantia Fresh apart from other festivals is its focus on “freshness” – a vital part of food, wine and life. Tickets are R650pp, which includes wine, food and live music. www.constantiafresh.com
Festive Picnic at Spier, 25 December On Christmas Day, Spier guests will receive the complete Christmas experience with Spier’s Christmas picnic basket. Packed with Christmas cheer and merry flavours, Spier’s picnic basket will ensure you and your loved ones experience Christmas culinary delight under the shade of oak trees. Inside your basket, you will find studded gammon, rotisserie lamb, cheese, crackers and festive jam. Save space for mince pies and tiramisu! Tickets cost R750pp and R250 per child under 12. www.spier.co.za
Make Your Own Wreath at Babylonstoren, 8 - 9 December To get into the spirit of the Christmas season, join Constance, Babylonstoren’s floral artist and walk with her through the garden and fill your basket with seed heads, flowers, foliage and whatever takes your fancy, before watching a demonstration of a few of her favourite Christmas wreath designs. Constance will guide you while you make your own wreath to take home. R500pp. and only 15 spots available per day. www.babylonstoren.com
Sunset Rouge Evenings at Alto Wine Estate, Now - end of December Yes, Sunset Rouge Evenings are back! Join Alto Wine Estate every Friday evening from 5:30 - 8pm and enjoy live music by local musicians, award-winning wines and beautiful sunsets. All of their wines will be available for sale and can be accompanied by their cheese and charcuterie platters. Free entry but booking is essential as seating is limited. Email info@altowines. co.za to book your table. www.alto.co.za s O U T H A F R I C A N C O N N O I SS E U R
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WINE & DINE | What’s New
WINE & DINE What’s New in Food and Wine
Lets Get Fezzy
Eikendal has just released the latest vintage wines in its premier range INFUSED BY EARTH, a terroir-focused collection produced only in years of exceptional quality. This is only the second time that Eikendal has bottled wines under this banner. Both varietals—the Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc—are from 2017, a vintage widely recognised as among South Africa’s best. Eikendal’s new wine range is ideal to add some pizazz to any festive occasion.
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WHAT’S NEW, FRANSCHHOEK?
There’s always something on the go in trendy Franschhoek. And the latest news is that LA PETITE FERME has appointed a talented new head chef, Odette Olivier. She comes with a wealth of local and international experience and is set to re-invigorate the dining experience at one of the Cape’s most scenic locations. Odette will oversee and implement the menu design and provide oversight of the restaurant. After years of local and international experience, now at La Petite Ferme, Odette looks forward to building on the property’s great culinary and hospitality tradition. Open for lunch Saturdays and Sundays from 12:00 to 15:00; and, dinner seven days a week from 18:00 to 21:00.
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What’s New | WINE & DINE
The Great Revival
Do you ever wonder why there aren’t more wines with the word ‘Chateau’ on their label? We use lots of French terms when talking about wines, so why not Chateau? Apparently, in 1935, South Africa signed an agreement preventing the term from being used by local producers. But guess which wine was already made and escaped the prohibition? You guessed it, CHATEAU LIBERTAS. And, at almost 90 years old, this classic Cabernet Sauvignon-led red blend is still performing exceptionally well. The 2019 vintage featured as a top ten wine in the 2021 Prescient Signature Red Blend Report earlier this month. And it was selected as the best buy of all, retailing as it does for a mere R59 a bottle. Now that’s not at all bad for one of the country’s longest-established red blends.
CELEBRATING WITH A BIRTHDAY BLEND
Feel the need to celebrate but don’t have a big event coming up? Why not join DIEMERSFONTEIN in celebrating their 21st vintage. That’s more than two decades in wine. To commemorate this event, the estate is preparing a limited-edition wine. Named TWENTYONE, this Shirazdominant blend is exclusively available from Diemersfontein’s tasting room, PROE deli, and online store. What’s in the bottle? You’ll have to buy one to find out.
THE DREAM TEAM: BOSJES AND TINASHE
We all love a good collab; whether it’s wine and cheese, curry and hollowed out bread, or brandy and coke, South Africans have a few good favourites. And we bet the next collab to celebrate will be Tinashe Nyamudoka collaborating with Chef Nicholas Oosthuizen on the BOSJES 2021 WINE RANGE. On stepping into the shoes of SA wine industry icon, the late Allan Mullins, wine blender of BOSJES’ maiden range, Tinashe said, “Taking on a project to which Allan was so dedicated is an honour, and I have big shoes to fill.” His brief: Create intriguing blends that would reflect the brand’s commitment to exceptional quality and accessibility. And we believe he’s done just that. The new wines complement the current range and pair very well with dishes created by the BOSJES Chefs for each eatery.
CONGRATS, SIMONSIG!
It’s not that surprising that SIMONSIG WINE ESTATE – who released SA’s very first Cape Blend in 1994 – has been included in the judges’ final Top Five at this year’s Perold Absa Cape Blend Competition. That’s for the winery’s Frans Malan 2017 wine. A hearty congratulations to a pioneer in South African’s wine industry. And, this comes just after being named champions of the Standard Bank Chenin Blanc Top 10 too, with their Chenin Avec Chêne 2019. We can’t wait to see what they have up their sleeve for us next year. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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Drive to Dornier Take a
Along with its well-known Nich Varietal Reds, the Stellenbosch estate has so much more to offer visitors
'Dornier’s modern wine tasting facility is situated adjacent to the wine cellar and boasts panoramic views of Stellenbosch Mountain'
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Varietal Wines as voted by Wine Magazine South Africa.
The Wine Many of the noble grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz and Chenin Blanc are planted at Dornier—each of which portrays distinct characters given the varying soil types. In addition to commonly found single-variety wines and blends, Dornier is well known for producing single varietal wines made from lesser-known, niche varieties such as Tempranillo, Tinta Barocca, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Semillon which make for a truly unique tasting experience at Dornier. The cherry on top? Three of these niche varietal wines have ranked in South Africa’s Top 10 Niche
The Estate Whether you’re a local or visiting Cape Town for the summer, a trip to the beautiful Dornier estate is a must. The estate is home to several architecturally significant buildings—namely a Sir Herbert Baker designed Homestead built in the late 1800s, a pastoral barn (one of the oldest buildings in Stellenbosch), and the iconic Dornier Wine Cellar designed by the founder of Dornier— Mr. Christoph Modeste Dornier. For art-lovers, a limited selection of Mr. Dornier’s paintings are displayed within the wine cellar. Dornier’s iconic cellar has a 500-ton production capacity and is complemented by a state-of-the-art wine tasting facility. Dornier’s modern wine tasting facility is situated adjacent to the wine cellar and boasts panoramic views of Stellenbosch Mountain. Guests can enjoy tutored wine tastings and cellar tours as provided for by competent and knowledgeable staff.
ornier Wine Estate is a family-owned winery situated at the foot of the Stellenbosch Mountain in the famous Golden Triangle area. At Dornier, the team’s focus lies in the creation of premium quality wines with 80% of wine production being devoted to red wine. The estate’s ancient decomposed granite soils that are found on cool, south-facing slopes allows for elegant wines of complex structures.
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dornier | cover story 'For art-lovers, a limited selection of Mr. Dornier’s paintings are displayed within the wine cellar'
Wine tasting options at Dornier include all of Dornier’s wines that can also be enjoyed by the glass or by the bottle. A selection of delicious cheese and charcuterie platters are available to order as well. The Club Last but not least, Dornier’s Wine Club offers great value and benefit to all its members including the availability of special limited release wines which are produced for Dornier Wine Club Members exclusively. The latest release is Dornier Leda, a unique red blend that depicts the story of Leda and the Swan as is featured in Dornier’s logo. Of course, this wine demonstrates Dornier’s uniqueness in always doing things differently.
Recent wine AwardS Dornier Merlot 2018:
Top 10 Prescient Report, NWC and Veritas Double Gold Medals
Dornier Equanimity Cabernet Sauvignon 2017:
Top 100 Wine, Double Platinum Medal Dornier Petit Verdot 2016:
Top 10 Prescient Minority Report Dornier Malbec 2017:
90 points Prescient Minority Report Dornier’s Donatus Red 2017:
Top 10 Prescient Report, Top 10 Cape Bordeaux Red Blend Dornier Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot 2017:
Top 10 Cape Bourdeaux Red Blend Prescient Report Dornier Moordenaarskloof Tinta Barocca 2019:
Top 10 Prescient Report
To find out more, visit www.dornier.co.za Phone: +27 21 880 0557 Email: info@dornier.co.za Dornier Wines, Blaauwklippen Road, Stellenbosch 7600, South Africa s O U T H A F R I C A N C O N N O I SS E U R
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INSPIRATION | Gift Guide for Winos
Safari White Field Bar, R1699 from Field Bar
Wine Corkscrew Patent Art Print, R779 from Nifty Posters
Summer
Gift GUIDE G Billy Carafe, R299 from Poetry
White Otto Coaster & Mother Of Pearl Set, R199 from Poetry
Spoil your loved ones with these wineinspired finds
Wavy Wooden Bottle Stand, R1199 from Zara Home Gather Around Cocktails, R341 from Exclusive Books
Snow Marble Wine Cooler, R499 from @home
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Summer Gift Guide | INSPIRATION
Gold Rim Coloured Wine Glass, R179 from Zara Home
The Wine Carrier, R1150 from Zelat
The Encyclopedia of Cocktails, R605 from Takealot
Brushed Antique Copper Corkscrew, R799 from Le Creuset
Summer Vineyard Candles, R130 - R545, from Cape Islands Wooden Tray Stand, R1199, from Zara Home
Summer Vineyard Fragrance Diffuser 200ml, R465 from Cape Islands SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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Feature | Discover Paarl
Undiscovered Paarl Explore some of Paarl's offthe-beaten-track wine farms—and a few other hidden gems along the way
W
hen you think of Paarl Wine Route, what pops into your mind? Yes, it's the goats climbing their little tower at Fairview, isn't it? Fairview has for many years offered the trifecta: good wine, good cheese and sweet goats. But, we need to let you in on an undiscovered secret. Paarl is taking shape as a popular wine route in its own right, with many more delightful offerings rivaling the trendy Franschhoek and ol’ faithful Stellenbosch. And you’ll certainly love its more rural vibe. Did you know that Paarl has more than 28 farms that make up the district, making it the second-largest wine region in the country? Of course, there are plenty of wineries to put on your mustvisit list, along with many noteworthy outdoor activities, fine dining options and country accommodation to enjoy. In fact, to really get a feel for the place, you should better stay the night. When it comes to wines, Paarl is famous for creating the world's first white Pinotage. It is also popular for its Chenins and reds (thanks to Paarl's climate). Ready to take a drive yet? Before you head out, take a look at some of Paarl's undiscovered gems.
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Discover Paarl | Feature
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Where the Wild Ones Are Dedicated to producing authentic, delicious wines and, of course, the conservation of African wild dogs and their natural habitat. Painted Wolf Wines makes a good visit. The wine: With three ranges, you'll easily find a wine for you. The Den offers soft and juicy comfort wine for everyday drinking. The Pack includes premium wines handcrafted from organic or sustainably farmed vineyards. Lycaon Pictus is a range of boutique Chenin Blanc and Rhone-style blends. The farm: Tasting tours include information about the wines and the endangered Painted Wolf. Interesting to note: All the wines include beautiful artworks of a Painted Wolf on the label. www.paintedwolfwines.com
Seeing Stripes Another winery with a heart for animals, Perdeberg adopted its name from the Cape Mountain zebras that once roamed this area. The wine: With six wine ranges, choice is not a problem here. The farm offers a lifestyle, popular, low-alcohol, premium, ultra-premium, and super-premium range of wines. The farm: A fun place to visit; there's more than just wine tastings and pairings on offer. Step in at the country kitchen-style restaurant, or enjoy a braai, picnic or tasty pizza. There are also mountain bike trails and a function or wedding venue on the estate. Interesting to note: Perdeberg makes a craft beer, too, called Quagga. Fermented in small batches, these have a lower alcohol content and are very enjoyable. www.perdeberg.co.za s O U T H A F R I C A N C O N N O I SS E U R
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Feature | Undiscovered Paarl
The Juice is Worth the Squeeze This small boutique winery, Druk My Niet makes wine the environmentally friendly way. Since they're situated in a biosphere reserve, they choose to use only sustainable farming methods. The wine: With three collections on offer, you can enjoy the Estate Collection's Rosé, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc. The Icon Collection includes three red blends. The C68 Collection consists of a wooded Chenin Blanc. The farm: After enjoying some wine tasting, why not stay at the beautiful self-catering cottages amidst vines, mountains and spectacular views. Interesting to note: In 2017, the farm was severely hit by wildfires and lost all its thatched buildings, 30% of the vineyards and the 2015 and 2017 wine vintages. www.dmnwines.co.za
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Every Dog Has Its Day At Ridgeback Wines, you'll find vines secured on high trellises and a vineyard that embodies the legend of the Rhodesian ridgeback dog—one of tenacity and ruggedness, symbolic of the pioneering spirit. The wine: Three labels are produced on the farm. Ridgeback's premium brand emphasizes top quality and presentation of both red and white single varietals and blends. Vansha focuses on good quality red and white blends. The easy quaffing Lion Hound range looks for good quality everyday wines at affordable prices. The farm: There's a tasting room, of course, and you can enjoy delicious food in the gardens overlooking a dam at The Deck restaurant. Also on offer is a 4-star guesthouse—the perfect place to relax and unwind on your tour through the wine route. Interesting to note: The Rhodesian ridgeback was initially used for lion hunting. www.ridgebackwines.co.za
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Undiscovered Paarl | FEATURE
SITTING PRETTY UNDER THE TREES If you're looking for a boutique, familyowned estate, UNDER OAKS is it. Steeped in history dating back to 1695, Under Oaks produces fine boutique wines. The wines are sold exclusively from the farm. THE WINES: The Under Oaks collection selects single varietals and blends that comprise premium grapes chosen from specific blocks. THE FARM: From tasting wines and enjoying pizza to enjoying luxury accommodation or hosting a small meeting, Under Oaks is just the ticket. INTERESTING TO NOTE: The Under Oaks logo is made up of three leaves; the oak for origin, the vine for the grapes and the cork oak for bringing closure on a dream turned into reality. www.underoaks.co.za
FAMILY FUN The WINDMEUL KELDER farm draws from a host of well-tended vineyards, enabling the winemaking team to produce a range of exceptional wines that are enjoyed both locally and abroad. THE WINES: The collection will appeal to everyone, from the casual wine lover to the most discerning connoisseur. The Legend and the Reserve range will interest those seeking award-winning wines. The Cellar range, still of outstanding quality, falls into the value-for-money category. THE FARM: Here, you'll also find a host of exciting food and wine-related events. There's a regular Saturday Farmers' Market and a deli that's open daily, where you can sit and enjoy artisanal goods while the kids play. INTERESTING TO NOTE: The windmill––to which the cellar owes its name––formed the hub of economic activity in the region during the 1800s and was reputed to be the finest mill in the country. www.windmeul.com
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Trails & Pizza If you're looking for excellent Rhône-style varietals and blends, Rhebokskloof is your go-to. All the grapes are handpicked and hand-sorted to ensure the best bunches are used. The wine: You have three ranges to choose from. Black Marble Hill offers a Cap Classique, Chardonnay and Syrah. The Rheboksloof Range includes a Chenin, Chardonnay, Shiraz and Pinotage. The Flatrock Range offers a white, a red and a sparkle. The farm: It's not just wine you'll enjoy here. Settle down for some tasty morsels at The Rhebokskloof restaurant or Pizzeria, or book a picnic basket and enjoy lunch under the trees. And, there are off-road trails for athletes and even horseback and guided quad bike tours too. Interesting to note: Paarl Adventure Trails revamped the farm's trails, and you can now walk, hike, run or ride up to 35km on these expertly designed trails. www.rhebokskloof.co.za
Road-tripping Paarl Now that you've tasted the wines and enjoyed the vineyard views, what more is there to explore? Quite a lot, actually, but here are five of our favourites. A great start at Schoon Laborie Cafe:
The perfect setting to enjoy artisanal bread, pastries, breakfasts, sandwiches, and rustic pizzas. We recommend starting your Paarl wine route venture right here. www.schoon.co.za A walking tour of the Alpaca Loom Coffee Shop & Weaving Studio: Not
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watch the weavers at work in the studio, enjoy a walk with these woolly creatures, and have a delicious cake and coffee too. It's a must-visit, especially if you have kids. www.alpacas.co.za Hike Paarl Mountain Nature Reserve:
Open throughout the year, you can hike one of the many trails and enjoy the picturesque landscape of fynbos vegetation, visit Mill Water Wild Flower Garden, catch bass at Nantes dam, or enjoy some mountain biking and a picnic. The choice is yours. www.drakenstein.gov.za
Soak up the views at Taal Monument:
Discover more about the history of one of Africa's youngest languages at the iconic Taal monument on Paarl Mountain. There is also lekker food, amazing views, and an open-air gallery to enjoy, plus a playground for the kids. www.taalmuseum.co.za A caffeine kick at Kikka Boulevard:
For a tasty foodie stop, choose Kikka Boulevard. Showcasing premium coffee, florists, and nutritious and delicious bites to eat, it will give you the energy you need to move on to the next wine estate. www.kikka-coffeeflorist.com
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dornier | cover story
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FEATURE | Architectural Wine Farms
Easy on
THE EYE
We explore six of the Western Cape’s most BEAUTIFULLY DESIGNED ESTATES—with a side of fine wine, of course.
There are many reasons to raise a glass and celebrate, and design is just one of them. You probably share our great love for interior and architectural design. So here a few wine estates that also display a love of design and all things aesthetic. While they also offer amenities like excellent food, trail runs, or kiddies' play areas, these farms are second to none when it comes to architecture or unique design elements. To see them in real life, be sure to take a trip to these estates when you next visit the Cape.
Hazendal Wine Estate Wine Lounge
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Architectural Wine Farms | Feature
1. Kunjani Wines : Afro Chic
The heart of this estate is the tasting room and dining area, whose friendly ambiance speaks to the greeting behind the name Kunjani. Here you'll enjoy a Euromeets-Afro design concept that's been designed by local talent Haldane Martin. It has an expansive deck overlooking the surrounding vineyards and mountains and a wine cellar with a tasting area that showcases wines on original leather and steel wine racks. The building was designed in a Cape Dutch typology, meaning it was laid out in an H-plan, a very traditional architectural style. The twist to this typical farmhouse technique is that the building's exterior was painted charcoal (instead of white), and traditional slate stone cladding and red sliding screens were added. The screens were inspired by the geometric patterns painted onto mud huts in West Africa. There are original designs by Haldane Martin furnishing the area, including the new Sim-Ply dining chairs in grey leather and red lacquer. Notable South African design and art pieces have been included throughout the space to root the design within its local context firmly.
information
Farm 90/20, Blumberg Drive, Devonvale, Stellenbosch / www.kunjaniwines.co.za
2. De Toren: a Touch of Dutch
The De Toren Manor House boasts a blend of African and Dutch influences. Keeping true to the Cape Dutch heritage was first and foremost of importance, said CEO Daniel Mueller. “The architecture, interior design, and exterior landscaping were driven by a story of evolution, rather than revolution—the intention was to remain true to our heritage and roots while embracing the opportunity to refresh and reinvigorate.” If you're looking for a touch of grandeur, you'll find it in the tasting lounge—it has a sense of flair that's hard to ignore. There is a large fireplace, wood-burning stove and rotating chandelier. Plus, the interior decor shows off a truly South African influence.
information Polkadraai Road, Stellenbosch / www.de-toren.com s O U T H A F R I C A N C O N N O I SS E U R
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FEATURE | Architectural Wine Farms
3. HAZENDAL: A REAL GEM
At Hazendal, the vision was for the farm's design to add contemporary and exciting new structures existing harmoniously alongside 300-year-old buildings. This task was taken on by Mike Hackner Architects, who have created the effortless blending of old and new. Here, the new buildings imitate the shape of a traditional Cape Dutch barn and are clad in raw stone material. Modest and beautiful, you'll enjoy the clean silhouette of the pavilion, and the height of the dining room and underground suites are jewels of contemporary design while not being too flashy.
INFORMATION
Bottelary Road, Stellenbosch / www.hazendal.co.za
4. BOSJES: WE’RE GOIN’ TO THE CHAPEL Even if you haven’t visited the farm in person, you’ve most likely seen the striking white curves of the glass-walled chapel of Bosjes, no? Designed by Coetzee Steyn, the chapel seems to rest on the water in front of it, almost seeming to float. The inspiration behind this design emulates the silhouette of the surrounding mountain ranges, paying tribute to historic Cape Dutch gables.
These curves have been constructed from a slim concrete cast shell. The roof supports itself as each undulation falls to meet the ground. It is said to draw inspiration from Psalm 36:7. The building is elevated upon a plinth, and the chapel rises from the flat land it sits upon, providing a hierarchical focal point within its surroundings—a beautiful place for rest and meditation.
INFORMATION
Bosjes, R43, Ceres / www.bosjes.co.za 2 4
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Architectural Wine Farms | Feature
5. Babylonstoren: Everyone’s Favourite
The restoration of Babylonstoren has been carefully done to be nostalgic of the past. The aim was to preserve the feel of the original fabric of the farm while introducing 21st-century life here. There are simple, modern decor and furniture pieces with a hint of antique detail. Although the interiors are perhaps pretty modest, they are still luxurious and stylish. This attention to detail is all thanks to Karen Roos and her design team. It's still a working farm while also being a unique getaway and wine estate.
information
Klapmuts, Simondium Road, Simondium / www.babylonstoren.com
6. Steenberg: Bringing the Outside In
“The starting point in the redesign was for visitors to be aware of the working of all its elements—from the vineyards where the grapes are grown to the cellars where the wine is made and the kitchen where the food is prepared,” say the Steenberg architects, Richard Perfect and Jan Desseyn. With that in mind, they've created a building that blurs the lines of where the outside ends and the inside begins. And in this manner, the materials of metal, glass, and timber screens take centre stage. This multi-layered approach is used throughout all design elements, from the building itself and the landscaped garden to various pools of water and the interior. Each layer of fittings and furnishings adds depth and texture. You'll find weathered dead wood, a unique lattice column sculpture and accompanying sofa tables, and a spectacular grape sculpture made of 2km of steel cable and 2,700 resin grapes, hand-crafted and installed by Divali Natural lighting.
information: Steenberg Rd, Tokai, Cape Town / www.steenbergfarm.com s O U T H A F R I C A N C O N N O I SS E U R
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Feature | Muscat
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2021/11/18 18:27
Muscat | FEATURE
H
ow do we smell? We know how we see, taste, touch. But our sense of smell, and how we do it, is one of the prevailing mysteries of our time. The most popular theory is that a molecule’s shape is what determines its smell, like it does for taste. The Emperor of Scent by Chandler Burr turns this assumption on its head. In the book the author tracks biophysicist and perfume expert Luca Turin as he tries to untangle this mystery. In the end Turin proposes that smell works on vibrations to detect odour molecules. If you think about how scent can layer and build, and fill a room, much like music, it starts to make sense.
On the
Scent of MUSCAT Malu Lambert explores the sweeter side of wine
The dewy scent of white roses, fresh, floral honey, an alpine lift of lemongrass, tangy apricot then an aftershock of ginger. Like an orchestra of scent, the eight glasses in front of me each have their own notes to play. These are the components of the 2019 vintage of Vin de Constance. I’m on the blending panel this year of what is an annual series of tastings conducted to assimilate the final blend of Klein Contantia’s famous wine. Vin de Constance is a natural sweet made from 100 per cent Muscat de Frontignan, more widely known abroad as Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains. Winemaker Matthew Day explains that rather than making each component to stand on its own, the approach is rather for each to have a specific role in the blending process. “You can have these amazing fractions but when you blend them together they sometimes don’t work and can often clash,” he continues. “This new vintage is one step closer to our goal; a sweet wine that has the effect of being dry.”
BEES LOVE IT
There are said to be over 200 iterations of Muscat, from blanc to gris and black, often unrelated but all with something akin to that telltale grapey scent. Here in South Africa we specialise in Muscat de Frontignan and Muscat of Alexandria, the former colloquially known as Hanepoot. They also happen to be the parents of the ‘true’ Muscat family of around 14 strains. The aromatic grapes were first mentioned in literature dating all the way back to the Middle Ages. Though it could be older than even that, Pliny the Elder is said to have written about the Greek ‘anathelicon moschaton’, which formed a part of the Vitis Apianae family. Translation: bees loved the grapes for the sweet scent. It’s not only our winged friends who are drawn to its molecular siren song, the Cape has a long history of producing wines with the ambrosial cultivar, planted way SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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FEATURE | Muscat
'Here in South Africa we specialise in Muscat de Frontignan and Muscat of Alexandria, the former colloquially known as Hanepoot' back in the 1600s. Falling under the moniker, Muscadel or labelled as estate wine our sweet wines were lauded across the world. It’s true that fields of bee-loving vineyards have long held dominion here. It was as recent as the 1990s that Muscat was still the sixth most planted grape in the national vineyard, which then was a fair sweep more than both cabernet and chardonnay. But the fall has been swift with the rapid grubbing up of vines as the old stickies have fallen out of fashion. Muscat now makes up less than two per cent of all plantings.
FADING AWAY FAST
Muscat is not without its champions. Senior winemaker Paul Burger of Nuy Winery says that in fact their Muscadels are the winery’s best sellers. “Nuy was established in 1963 and we have been planting Muscat de Frontignan and Hanepoot since the very beginning,” shares Paul. “Our valley has the perfect conditions to grow these grapes. We are committed to continue building on this tradition. We need to hold on to these vineyards. “South Africa has a rich and colourful wine history and Muscadel wines are a big part of it. If we as South Africans do not protect our heritage, who will?” To further this mission is the Barbieri Idro Barrel Aged Red Muscadel, the latest bottling was in barrel for almost six years. Paul elaborates that it was named for an Italian prisoner of war. He shares the story: “During his incarceration, he was stationed 2 8
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for three years on the farm Sonja in the Nuy Valley. One day Barbieri was busy loading wine barrels filled with red Muscadel onto a train when one of them broke loose from its ties and rolled over him. He was killed. Today, the farm where this tragedy unfolded remains one of Nuy Winery’s grape suppliers. To commemorate Barbieri, we have named this limited series in his honour.” Not far from the Muscat-laden slopes of Nuy lies the Gevonden vineyard in the Breedekloof, the oldest known Hanepoot block in the country, clocking in at well over 100 years. The future for the vineyard is uncertain as the new owners of the farm are said to be more commercially minded farmers. Up until now the grapes were used to make the Daschbosch Hanepoot. According to the Old Vine Project seal the block was planted in 1900, as that’s when the KWV started collecting the data. However, winemaker WS Visagie explains that the previous owner showed him documents proving it was actually planted between 1882 and 1883. He told me all this at a recent lunch where I got to enjoy it. The sense of history sent shivers down my spine. Concentrated flavours of rhubarb, baked golden apples, warm cinnamon and clove, honeyed apricots, smoky lemon rind… with a length so long and fine you can almost count the vine’s age it came from, like so many tree rings in its satiny texture. WS says it equally elicits an emotional response in him.
'The Gevonden vineyard in the BREEDEKLOOF, the OLDEST KNOWN HANEPOOT BLOCK in the country, clocking in at well OVER 100 YEARS.'
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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'The Daschbosch Skin brings Muscat FIRMLY INTO THE FUTURE with a RESPECT for the PAST as its backbone. A BLEND OF CHENIN BLANC AND HANEPOOT, it is fermented and aged for three months on the skins' “The way you feel when walking in the vineyard is incredible. I have absolute respect for the age of the plants. If they could talk, what stories would they tell?” Though it’s unclear whether we’ll see another vintage of this wine, Daschbosch continues in its mission of crafting heritage style wines, but not without a lick of innovation. The Daschbosch Skin brings Muscat firmly into the future with a respect for the past as its backbone. A blend of chenin blanc and Hanepoot, it is fermented and aged for three months on the skins. The wine has an aromatic floral intensity, roses, peach blossom, spice and a cut of lime. Just the right amount of flesh on the palate with grapes tannins that melt like butter, before a pleasingly dry finish after all that perfume. WS isn’t alone in his quest to try new things with the grape; there are a number of winemakers producing dry, edgier Muscats that crest the new wave. One such vinous surfer is André Bruyns with his own label City on a Hill. After having tasted it at a Swartland Street Party I reached out to him to find out more. Says André: “I used to work with Hanepoot bushvines planted in the 1960s. We used it to make sparkling grape juice and Jerepigo. The grape juice was nice but what a waste! When I came to the Swartland I came across an old vineyard (1984) in the Paardeberg. The result was one barrel of skin ferment Muscat in 2017.”
He’s now on already sold-out vintage 2020. What does the future hold for dry Muscat? “It doesn’t have the commercial appeal that some other varieties have. It will remain a niche product or as part of blends. Muscat will never get the traction that chenin has and rightly so. Though Muscat does tell a story of South African wine heritage. That’s the other mysterious thing about smell, how it triggers memories – and can transport you to any given moment. Scientists have deduced the reason for this is that the olfactory processing system is located close to the memory hub of the brain. Muscat, with its intricate web of distinct aromatics, has long written a story through scent; one that has been passed down through the decades from our ancestors: delivered in the cadence of fragrance. And once that signal is lost, it’s lost.
'MUSCAT does tell a STORY of South African wine HERITAGE' SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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MADE BY HEART
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THE MOST HANDCRAFTED SINGLE MALT The Balvenie is a unique range of single malts created by David Stewart, The Balvenie Malt Master. Each has its own unique taste, but each is rich, luxuriously smooth and underpinned by the distinctively honeyed character of The Balvenie. The exceptional quality of The Balvenie is attributable to the unique craftsmanship retained by The Balvenie Distillery. Nowhere else will you find a distillery that still grows its own barley, malts in its own traditional floor maltings, employs a team of coopers to tend its casks, a coppersmith to maintain its stills and has in its service the most experienced Malt Master in Scotland.
THE BALVENIE DOUBLEWOOD, AGED 12 YEARS
THE BALVENIE DOUBLEWOOD, AGED 17 YEARS
THE BALVENIE PORTWOOD, AGED 21 YEARS
Twelve years in American oak soften and add character, imparting vanilla notes and honey, while up to six months in sherry casks brings depth and fullness of flavor, with rich fruit and nutty sweetness.
An elder sibling to the popular DoubleWood 12 Year Old, this new aged version shares the same DNA and the honeyed, spicy characteristics as the 12 Year Old, but it is distinctly different, with deeper vanilla notes, hints of green apple, creamy toffee and a striking richness and complexity.
Twenty-one years of traditional maturation mellows the spirit and builds character, and a few months in 30-year-old Portuguese port pipes increases its complexity and develops its full-bodied flavour.
TASTING NOTES
TASTING NOTES
TASTING NOTES
NOSE: Sweet fruit and Oloroso sherry notes layered with honey and vanilla
NOSE: Elegant and complex with oak, vanilla, honeyed sweetness and a hint of green apple.
NOSE: A perfume of fruity and ripe raisin notes, backed by a nutty dryness.
TASTE: A smooth, mellow single malt of beautifully combined flavours – nutty sweetness, cinnamon spiciness and a delicately proportioned layer of sherry FINISH: Long and warming finish
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TASTE: Sweet with dried fruits, sherbet spice, toasted almonds and cinnamon, layered with a richness of creamy toffee notes, traces of oak and deep vanilla.
TASTE: Refined and with remarkable character, it is creamy and silky on the palate, with fruit, honey and spice notes. FINISH: Long, gentle and nutty.
FINISH: Vanilla, oak, honey and a spicy sweetness.
2021/11/18 13:01
FEATURE | Wine Labels
But when we reach the wine shelves we carefully scan the rows of labels, wanting to know the farm where the grapes were produced, the variety of grapes that went into the bottle, the year they were harvested, and often even the name of the particular vineyard in which those grapes grew. Wine producers know this, of course, and try to dress their products in labels as eye-catching and memorable as possible. It’s a competitive world out there. In some cases, the name of the farm or estate has become so well known and respected that it’s enough to attract buyers without having to think up fancy names. Cellars like Groot Constantia, Alto, Boschendal, Meerlust and Simonsig already have loyal followings, while lesser-known wineries, like Snowfield (Sutherland) and Tshilidzini (Wellington) might need some introduction on the label.
W
ine is one of only a small handful of agricultural products that are marketed with brand names. Most farm products are sold simply by weight. We happily buy apples, potatoes, lamb chops and bananas without bothering to ask who produced them. We put a dozen eggs into the supermarket trolley with no desire to know the name of the hen that laid them, or even the farm where she lived. When we buy steaks we don’t even ask whether they were taken from black Angus cows, Frieslands or Ayrshires. Beef is beef. Slice it, mince it, make it into biltong: it remains anonymous.
JUST THE
TICKET!
David Biggs on some of his favourite local wine labels Often the vintners take the easy route when labelling their products and simply give the name of the cellar and variety of grape—Saronsberg Shiraz, for example, or Nederburg Riesling. Fair enough; you know what you’re getting and where it comes from. You have enough confidence in the winery to know you’ll end up with a bottle of reliably good wine. In addition to identifying the cellar, wine labels can be used to honour ancestors, pay tribute to historic figures or act as reminders of the winemaker’s family origins. JORDAN WINES’ COBBLERS HILL label, for example, refers to the family’s involvement in the shoe industry. Jordon shoes. The cobbler was traditionally the man who made and repaired shoes. Wines may be named after family members, political leaders—or even dogs. BEYERSKLOOF’S ICONIC DIESEL PINOTAGE, for example, has nothing to do with the liquid tractor fuel. It was named after a very large boerboel dog called Diesel. The wine’s creator, Beyers Truter, said, “Diesel was more than just a dog. He was a HUGE dog—eyes like a lion, balls of steel, teeth like a scalpel…” Obviously, a dog that won great respect, like the wine. 3 2
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Wine Labels | FEATURE
One interesting wine label pays tribute even to a fish. SPRINGFONTEIN’S MISS LUCY
has been given one of the many nicknames of the red stumpnose, an endangered fish species. Keen anglers don’t need to be told that, but those who live far from the ocean might find it confusing. OPSTAL’S SIXPENCE label honours a humble, but obviously loved, shepherd boy of that name.
Ratcliffe. She was determined to put a blue label on her Cabernet Sauvignon, but was advised against using blue for a red wine. She persisted and wanted to call the wine Le Femme Bleu, but was told the name was already taken so she translated it to the now well-known Blue Lady. Look closely at the Seven Flags label on the PAUL CLUVER CHARDONNAY of that name. You’ll see a bear’s claw on that label too. They are reminders of a time back in the 1100s when a Cluver ancestor saved the life of the German king by cutting off the claw of a bear that was attacking him. He was rewarded with a knighthood (entitling his family to add a “Von” to their surname) and a family coat of arms that included seven regional flags. I always enjoy labels with a touch of humour. They are a reminder that wine and laughter should go together. If it’s not fun, why are we drinking it? It’s all too easy to become pompous and pedantic when referring to wine; pontificating about technical stuff like residual sugar, tannins, oxidisation, pH, mouthfeel, reverse osmosis and skin contact. “Look at me. I am a connoisseur,” they are really saying. Every community has its wine bores! Avoid them if you can.
Behind the name of MURATIE’S ANSELA VAN DE CAAB there’s a poignant love story of a German soldier, Laurens Campher, who fell in love with Ansela, a beautiful slave girl born in the slave quarters of the Cape Town Castle. Laurens courted Ansela for 14 years, often walking all the way from Stellenbosch, a three-day journey, to visit her. It was a dangerous liaison and together they had three children even though Ansela was locked up in the slave quarters every night. The story has a happy ending, though, and when Ansela was eventually baptised and freed they were married on Muratie and planted an oak tree on the farm to celebrate the occasion. That oak can still be seen there today. I see WARWICK’S BLUE LADY label as a tribute to a strong-willed woman: the estate’s winemaker, Norma Some of the quirkiest labels on our shelves come from
HERMANUSPIETERSFONTEIN (The longest-named Cape winery) where
they obviously enjoy creating unusual names like Skoonma (motherin-law), Kaalvoet Meisie (barefoot girl) and, best of all, Die Kat Met Die Houtbeen (the cat with the wooden leg). The names tend to reflect the characters of the wines—the stern mother-in-law, the fresh and frivolous barefoot girl and the silky-sinuous cat with an unexpected touch of oak for character. I can’t help falling for an unpretentious, down-to-earth label like the Bergkelder’s Flippenice. The label says it all. That’s all I ask of a wine. If it’s flippen nice I’ll have a glass, thank you. (Okay, sometimes toward the end of the month I may have to settle for Flippencheap.) Next time you’re passing a few unhurried minutes in your local shopping centre, take time to browse the shelves of the wine shop and allow the labels to tickle your imagination. Wines come in a wide range of prices and some of them may be beyond your budget, but take comfort from the thought that the labels are yours to enjoy completely free of charge. They’re almost as good as a visit to your local library. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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#FlauntYourSparkle A closer look at Italian way of life and two wines that embody La vita è bella
Taking Notes
from The Italians
I
talians celebrate certain joyous aspects of life, such as spending time with family and friends, eating and drinking well and, of course, enjoying beauty in all its forms. Above all, the Italian lifestyle and culture prioritize family and friends over work and to-do lists. Sounds about right, don't you think? It’s all about surrounding yourself with people you love and taking the time to enjoy the simple things. One of the many daily habits of Italians is the ritual of the aperitivo which means ‘to open the stomach’ in anticipation of the coming meal. Another wonderful Italian ritual? Those long, lazy lunches or dinners with many tasty local dishes and fine wines. Speaking of fine wines, did you know that wine has been made in Italy for at least 4000 years? In fact, the Greeks named the country Oenotria, or “the land of wine”. It’s no wonder wine plays an intrinsic part of Italian culture. Today’s Italian wines have been shaped by thousands of years of history and local wineries benefit both from inherited and learned experience. By combining knowledge passed down through generations with today’s cutting-edge technologies, Italy is able to produce some of the most delicious wines in the world. The majority of Italian sparkling wines come from the region of Veneto where approximately 18% of sparkling and still wines are of DOC classification. Most sparkling wines are made as Spumante sparkling wine (approx. 4-6 bar pressure) or Frizzante (approx. 2.5 bar pressure). To be a Prosecco DOC or DOCG means that at least 85% of the wine is made from the local Veneto Glera grape. Italian sparkling wines are mostly produced by the Charmat - Martinotti method, in which the secondary fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks rather than in each individual bottle. This method preserves the crisp flavour profile, fragrance and character of the Glera grape making it a perfect companion for lunch, picnic and aperitivo.
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SCAVI&RAY PROSECCO uses Glera grapes that flourish on first-class vines in the sun-drenched Veneto landscape. The grapes are hand-picked with passion, devotion and care. The Scavi&Ray terroir has a very particular climate and incredibly special soil properties. SCAVI&RAY WINES TO TRY: SCAVI&RAY PROSECCO SPUMANTE DOC (100% Glera) Extra dry in the mouth, clean on the palate, juicy and with a clearly discernible note of acidity. Subtle hints of fruit, citrus, apple, slightly mineral and smoky on the nose.
BAGLIETTI is designed and produced by the third generation of the family business. The vineyards can be found in the beautiful landscapes of the provinces Treviso and Venice. At the end of summer there is a large temperature range between day and night and therefore a good presence of aromatic substances are to be found in the grape in the final ripening stage. BAGLIETTI WINES TO TRY: BAGLIETTI NO.10 PROSECCO DOC (Glera Grape) An elegant Prosecco DOC with a scent of pears, citrus and almonds. By allowing the wine to rest on yeast over time, a full flavour is able to evolve. Only grapes from the Piave area are used for No.10. BAGLIETTI NO.7 SPUMANTE ROSÉ (Pinot Noir and Rabboso) A sparkling rosé wine with a rich scent from white peach, citrus and summer berries. The taste is elegant and dry with elements of raspberry, citrus and almond. BAGLIETTI MILLESIMATO SPUMANTE ROSE GOLD (Pinot Noir and Glera) Vintage pink colour with velvety red fruit on the nose. The wine is dry with fresh acid and small bubbles.
SCAVI&RAY PROSECCO DOC ROSÉ (88% Glera and 12% Pino Nero DOC) This prosecco rosé is particularly suitable as an aperitif for the summer time. It’s the perfect companion for everyday festive occasions. SCAVI&RAY PROSECCO SUPERIORE DOCG (85% Glera grapes and 15% Chardonnay) Clean on the nose, with fine fruit, apple, pear, citrus and soft floral notes, as well as subtle echoes of herbal spice, honey and hazelnut. This highest quality prosecco is incredibly clean on the palate, with an excellent perlage of medium body and length. SCAVI&RAY ICE PRESTIGE SPUMANTE (60% Glera and 40% Verduzzo) The meticulously selected mixture of grape varieties unlocks a fruity aromatic character with notes of pear, apple and citrus with floral nuances on the nose. A sweeter sparkling pleasure, especially on warm summer days. Served on ice, with raspberries and mint or with pink grapefruit and cucumber. SCAVI&RAY MOMENTO D’ORO This premium sparkling wine is a lively, sparkling cuvée, which impresses with its harmonious composition and guarantees an unrivalled taste sensation. The versatile cuvée has an aroma of fresh apple and pear with delicate echoes of floral, herbal and smoky notes.
WIN Five winners will each win a case of Baglietti Prosecco
Share a picture of yourself and friends enjoying Baglietti Prosecco on social media and stand a 1 in 5 chance to win a case (6 x 750ml bottles) of Baglietti Prosecco, each worth R1434 incl VAT per case. To enter, simply share a photo of yourself and your friends enjoying Baglietti Prosecco, follow and tag all three brands: @baglietti_sa @firebrand.africa @wineofthemonth And use the following hashtags: #flauntyoursparkle #bagliettiprosecco #firebrandafrica #baglietti
To order Baglietti Prosecco visit www.wineofthemonth.co.za or call 021 492 4100 Terms and conditions apply. Winners will be drawn at random. Closing date of the competition is 30 March 2022 and the judge’s decision is final. See page 1 for full terms and conditions.
Smith your Sip
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Quintessential
London Gin Sipsmith is the most quintessential reference for a classic London gin. Handcrafted in small batches using copper stills, ten classic botanicals and an 18th century distiller.
The
Swan Story The swan sits at the heart of Sipsmith and pays homage to the bespoke curved design of the gin still pipe which gives Sipsmith its distinct smooth and balanced flavour.
Certified
B-Corp It is our mission to craft a better future and pioneer positive changes for both people and planet. We are proud to be a certified B-Corp.
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FEATURE | WHITSTABLE
W
Fire-water of the CAMDEBOO
ould you believe a very large amount if not most of South Africa’s tequilalike agave spirit is made in the town of Ventersdorp? The spiritual heartland of the beverage, however, is an eight-hour drive south—to Graaff-Reinet in the Karoo. This is where the agave plant has been farmed for generations, initially as fodder during droughts and also to prevent soil erosion, but since the 1990s for spirit production too. Over the years, plants from this area have been used by a variety of agave spirit brands including Hope Distillery’s Esperanza Agave, Swartland winemaker Adi Badenhorst’s 4th Rabbit and the Van Doesburgh Distillery’s Agava. Most prominent these days is the partnership between Sarah Kennan’s Leonista and farmer Tim Murray. The Murrays have been in the area for
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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Discover South Africa’s own tequila-making agave plantations BY CLIFFORD ROBERTS
generations; Tim was the first in his line to plant agave to supply spirit-makers. Some 120ha of his 5000ha onion seedand-cattle farming land is devoted to the succulent and, importantly, the distilling-friendly variety agave americana linnaeus. The result has made Tim’s farm Roode Bloem a magnet for attention—from distillers fishing for advice to curious tourists. Tim quickly got organised and now offers guided tours. His tasting shoot-out between tequilas and local equivalents includes his own brand, Three Agaves. A layman would have difficulty distinguishing between the local stuff and the real thing. Getting to the plantation couldn’t be more tequila-esque. Just 10km out of town, at the end of several interlinking gravel roads, the large old farmhouse still feels remote. Most days, it’s hot and dry. When it’s not, temperatures often plummet to below zero. Even more grizzly, the spiky blue-grey agaves share
their dusty space with aggressive thorn trees. It’s a long, long way from gentle vineyards and wheatfields. The spirit that emerges, however, is one-of-a-kind. Its history goes back to South America but today, international producers take their lead from Mexico’s world-famous tequila. As in Mexico, harvest of the agaves at Roode Bloem Farm involves the removal of the outer leaves of the plant to expose the heart, which resembles a giant pineapple— hence its Spanish name, piña. These are then processed for the final spirit, whose production emulates that of mezcal and tequila. The latter are both made from agave varieties too. To qualify as tequila however, only specific varieties are permitted by law. Both styles also enjoy geographic naming protection by law. In the case of tequila, production takes place in areas around the town from which it gets its name. Piñas for tequila are typically steamed
WHITSTABLE | FEATURE
while mezcal is baked in wood or coal-fired ovens. It’s the reason for mezcal’s smoky character, which is perceptible in Tim’s Three Agaves too. Once cooked, the piñas are crushed and their juices fermented and distilled. Different categories of the drinks have been created by ageing them, but also by blending. Distillers are permitted to extend their stocks by adding other spirits to the agave spirit. In the case of tequilas, those made with 100% agave spirit will undoubtedly declare as much on the label and command a premium price. Those tequilas that don’t have such a statement, may be assumed to be a “mixto”, although regulations still require them to have a minimum of 51% agave. When it comes to tasting, white spirits in general and particularly tequila or equivalents often have an additional handicap. Many newcomers turn them down because they’re seen as overly strong. In truth, almost all spirits in South Africa are the same strength: they’re all bottled at a legislated 43% alcohol. At this level, it is accepted that spirits can still be tasted when blended with a mix —the most popular way of local consumption. This is especially important to remember when sampling them neat or comparing them in a line-up. In these cases, it’s generally best to add a splash of water. Dilution reduces the brashness of the drink and allows for better discernment of its aromas and flavours. For Tim Murray, it’s also the best way to enjoy South African agave spirit—as a “sipping drink”.
AGAVE EXPERIENCE TEQUILA MASTERCLASS AND AGAVE TOUR
Book an AirBnB Tequila Masterclass and Agave Experience where you meet Tim Murray, the farmer of the incredibly diverse and majestic agave plant. Tim has a wealth of knowledge and abundance of stories to share. You’ll walk through the plantation learning all there is to know followed by a tasting of six different agave spirits, both local and international and end everything off with a cocktail expertly blended with Three Agaves Silver Agave Spirit. Prices for the experience are R250 per person. www.airbnb.com/experiences/1437810 STAY: Roode Bloem Farm House fromR200pp for the first two people, thereafter R80pp. www.rbfh.business.site PURCHASE: Three Agaves Silver, Pure Karoo
Agave Spirit, R350 from www.threeagaves. karooheart.co.za Leonista, 100% Karoo Agave Spirit, from R445 from www.leonista.co.za SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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Stylish stylish STEENBERG
Steenberg’s Tasting Lounge has a VIBRANT NEW SUMMER LOOK Steenberg’s stylish Wine Tasting Lounge has been REFRESHED and REVITALISED with a VIBRANT CONTEMPORARY FEEL for an INSPIRING WINE EXPERIENCE in the heart of the CONSTANTIA VALLEY. Returning visitors will love the relaxed tones, rich textures and bold splashes of colour with eclectic touches inspired by South African artistry and craftsmanship. The new interior design showcases the deep red of Steenberg Merlot, fresh greens of Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc and the gorgeous yellow of the cherished Steenberg 1682 Chardonnay Cap Classique label. Fabrics portraying patterns and textures created by talented local artisans ground the space to Steenberg’s 1682 origins.
The fashionable outdoor tasting terrace is the place to see and be seen with a glass of award-winning Sauvignon Blanc and Cap Classique. Steenberg The Black Swan Sauvignon Blanc 2020 is a South African Top 10 winner, while the 1682 Cap Classique duo, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, excelled at the 2021 Veritas Awards.
Steenberg’s welcoming wine ambassadors look forward to guiding you on your journey through their Flagship, Estate, Sauvignon Blanc and Cap Classique wine selections. If you want to linger a little longer after your wine experience, book a table for lunch or evening tapas at Steenberg’s popular cellar door restaurant, Bistro Sixteen82.
The Steenberg Tasting Room is open seven days a week from 10h00 – 18h00, with the last wine tasting conducted at 16h30. For bookings visit www.steenbergfarm.com.
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2021/11/18 12:31
Festive Summer Cherries | recipes
Festive Summer Cherries There is something absolutely irresistible about cherries. Sweet, red and roundtheir presence raises any dish to a gourmet experience. Here are some of the best, both savoury and sweet.
Decadent Black Forest Trifle SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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Recipes | Festive Summer Cherries
Decadent Black Forest trifle Serves 8 - 10 Ingredients: For the cake 40g dark chocolate, (70% cocoa solids), chopped 85g butter 150g plain flour ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda 180g caster sugar 2 tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder 100g buttermilk 1 medium egg To assemble 50g dark chocolate, (70% cocoa solids), chopped 600ml double cream 50g icing sugar, sieved 1 tsp vanilla extract 600g jar of preserved black cherries in kirsch a few drops almond extract 10-12 fresh cherries
Directions: 1. Preheat the oven to 180°C and grease and line a 23 cm round cake tin with greaseproof paper.
6. Whip the cream with the icing sugar and vanilla extract until it starts to thicken, but stop before it gets stiff.
2. Melt the chocolate and butter together in the microwave or a bain-marie, then set aside to cool a little.
7. Tip the cherries into a sieve set over a bowl to catch the kirsch. Stir a few drops of almond extract into the kirsch.
3. Stir together the flour, bicarb, sugar and cocoa powder in a mixing bowl. Whisk the buttermilk with the egg until smooth, then add it to the flour with the chocolate mixture and 50ml boiling water. Fold it all together until smooth.
8. Break or cut the cake into chunks and sprinkle with a few tablespoons of the kirsch mixture. The cake should be moist, but not saturated (any leftover kirsch can be used to make mulled wine or cocktails).
4. Scrape the cake mixture into the prepared tin and level the top. Bake for 30 min or until a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean. Leave to cool completely on a wire rack. 5. Meanwhile, temper the chocolate for the chocolate bark and spread it thinly on a sheet of greaseproof paper. Leave to set.
9. Layer up the cake, cream and preserved cherries in a large trifle bowl, finishing with a layer of cream. Peel the greaseproof paper from the back of the chocolate bark, then break it into large pieces and arrange on top of the trifle with the fresh cherries. This is best done just before serving.
Directions: 1. Whip the cream with the vanilla bean paste until it just starts to hold its shape, then set aside.
inch x 4 inch loaf tin. Slide the tin into a sealable freezer bag or wrap tightly in a couple of layers of clingfilm.
Spiced cherry semifreddo Serves 8 - 10 Ingredients: 600ml double cream ½tsp vanilla bean paste 8 large egg yolks 100g runny honey 60ml kirsch ½ tsp ground cinnamon ¼ tsp ground cloves 500g fresh cherries, halved and stoned, plus a few whole cherries to serve
2. Put the egg yolks, honey, kirsch, cinnamon and cloves in a large bowl set over a pan of simmering water. Whip with an electric whisk until the mixture triples in volume and the beaters leave a trail that takes a couple of seconds to sink. This should take about 8 min. 3. Fold the egg yolk mixture into the double cream with the stoned cherries, then scrape it into a 25cm x 10cm | 10
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4. Freeze the semifreddo for at least 4 hours. 5. Remove the semifreddo from the freezer 10 min before you're ready to serve. Dip the outside of the tin in a bowl of hot water for 2-3 seconds, then turn it out onto a serving plate. Cut into thick slices and serve with a few fresh cherries on top.
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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Festive Summer Cherries | recipes
Spiced Cherry Semifreddo
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Recipes | Festive Summer Cherries
Terrine de champange with cherry relish Serves 8 - 10 Ingredients: For the terrine 5 bay leaves 300g back bacon 2 shallots, finely chopped 1 clove garlic, finely chopped 225g chicken thighs, cut into chunks 225g minced chicken 325g minced pork 60g pistachio nuts, shelled 1 medium egg, beaten ¼ tsp ground white pepper ¼ tsp ground mace salt freshly ground black pepper
it into the loaf tin. Fold the overhanging bacon over the top, then wrap the terrine in a double layer of kitchen foil. 4. Sit the terrine in the centre of a large roasting tin. Pour enough boiling water into the roasting tin to come halfway up the side of the terrine. 5. Cook in the oven for 1 hour 15 min, or until a temperature probe reads 68°C | 154F. Remove from the water bath. 6. Put a plate or board that fits inside the top of the loaf tin on top and weigh it down with a couple of tins while it cools to room temperature. Chill in the fridge
for at least 6 hours, still weighed down. 7. To make the cherry relish, heat the oil in a saucepan and fry the onion gently for 20 min or until soft and sweet. Stir in the rest of the relish ingredients and simmer for 15 min or until thick and syrupy. Leave to cool. 8. Cut the terrine into slices, season with plenty of black pepper and serve with the cherry relish and toasted baguette on the side.
For the cherry relish 2 tbsp sunflower oil 1 red onion, quartered and sliced ½ tsp coriander seeds, crushed 1 tbsp fresh root ginger, grated 1 mild red chilli, halved, seeded and sliced 400g fresh cherries, halved and stoned 100ml red wine vinegar 100g caster sugar To serve baguette slices, toasted Directions: 1. Preheat the oven to 170°C. 2. Stretch the bacon rashers by scraping along them with the back of a knife against a chopping board. Lay the bay leaves in the bottom of a 25cm x 10cm | 10 inch x 4 inch loaf tin, then line it with bacon, letting the edges overhang. 3. Heat the oil in a small frying pan and fry the shallots and garlic over a low heat for 10 min to soften without colouring. Tip them into a mixing bowl and add the rest of the terrine ingredients, including a big pinch of salt. Knead together with your hands until evenly mixed, then pack
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Terrine De Champange with Cherry Relish
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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Festive Summer Cherries | recipes
Roast duck breast with cherry sauce Serves 4 - 6 Ingredients: 6 duck breasts 1 tbsp butter ½ tbsp sunflower oil 2 large shallots, very finely chopped 1 clove garlic, very finely chopped 75 ml ruby port 150ml good quality chicken stock 150g cherries, halved and stoned 1 handful lamb's lettuce salt freshly ground black pepper
Roast Duck Breast with Cherry Sauce
Directions: 1. Preheat the oven to 200°C . 2. Put the duck breasts skin-side-down in a cold griddle pan (if you can't fit them in a single layer, use two pans). Set the griddle pan over a medium-high heat and cook for 6 min, pouring off the rendered fat into a bowl when it starts to get deep. 3. While the duck is cooking, heat the butter and oil in a frying pan and fry the shallots and garlic over a low heat to soften without colouring. 4. When the duck has had 6 min, turn the breasts 90° (without flipping them over) and cook for a further 4 min to give a cross-hatch pattern to the char marks. 5. Turn the duck skin-side-up and transfer the griddle pan to the oven. Roast for 5 min, then transfer the duck to a carving board and leave to rest. 6. When the duck goes in the oven, deglaze the shallot pan with port and bubble until almost evaporated, then add the stock. When it starts to simmer, add the cherries and poach for 2 min. Taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning with salt and black pepper. 7. Cut the duck breasts in half on the diagonal and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving platter and spoon over the cherry sauce. Garnish with lamb's lettuce and serve immediately. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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I have often been told that it’s traditional to serve red wine with red meat and white wine with white meat. Several of my friends have recently become hooked on diets like veganism or cholesterol-free meals. How do I select wines to accompany these dishes? Rules were made to be broken. Like diets, dress codes are now largely disregarded. Nobody cares if you wear veldskoen with your dress suit these days. Modern lifestyles allow you to be creative when pairing food and wine. Food is no longer strictly classified as “red” or “white” accompaniments. Instead, consider factors such as acidity, saltiness or palate weight. You might try matching a delicate, dry pink wine with a quiche, for example, or a spicy Shiraz with a toasted cheese sandwich. Meals are about sharing and company, more than just food and drink. Relax and enjoy. Forget the rules. If you think a sweet Hanepoot would pair with your avocado salad, go for it.
Your Wine FAQs
your Wine Questions answered by David biggs
I recently bought a bottle of dry white wine whose label proclaimed it had been “night harvested.” Is there any real benefit to be obtained by harvesting grapes at night, or is this simply a marketing ploy? White grapes should be kept as cool as possible from the time they’re picked until they are safely in the cellar. This is to avoid delicate flavour compounds evaporating before the grapes are pressed. Some producers—particularly in warmer areas— like to harvest their grapes during the cool of the night to retain all the flavour. Other farmers prefer to pick their grapes very early in the morning, for the same reason.
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An uncle of mine complains that he finds it hard to find a good jerepigo these days. It has always been his favourite wine, but he says nobody seems to buy it any more. Why is jerepigo so scarce now? It could be argued that jerepigo is not a true wine at all. Instead of fermenting grape juice, it is made by adding alcohol to very sweet, unfermented grape juice—usually Hanepoot juice. (Muscat d’Alexandrie) All the original sugar is retained in the juice. With today’s trend toward healthy lifestyles, not many people are buying drinks with high sugar content and with an alcohol content of almost 20%.
A sophisticated wine connoisseur friend often serves expensive Bordeaux-style wines to his guests. This is usually accompanied by considerable ceremony and he insists on opening the bottle an hour before pouring it in order to allow it to “breathe.” Should one always allow red wine to breathe before pouring it? It depends on the occasion. If you’re judging the wine in order to compare it with similar wines in a competition, by all means, allow breathing time. But if you simply want to share a good wine with friends, cut the ceremonial thing and keep it simple. Under normal social conditions, a few minutes of “breathing” is not going to make a significant difference to the wine. In any case, by the time you’ve taken a few sips from your glass, the wine will have taken a few deep breaths on its own.
2021/11/18 03:29
PROUDLY SOUTH AFRICAN OLIVE OIL FROM THE FOOTHILLS OF THE LANGEBERG MOUNTAIN RANGE @mardouw
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@mardouw
@mardouwolives
www.mardouw.com
2021/11/11 20:44
2021/11/18 12:27
@thelemamountainvineyards
There’s Something Special About Thelema
@thelemawines
@thelemawines
“Not everyone would agree, but Rudi Schultz thinks that 2018 was a “FANTASTIC VINTAGE” IN STELLENBOSCH. This Cabernet Sauvignon, blended with 10% Petit Verdot for more layers, is certainly PRETTY SPECIAL, with notes of mint and dill, bright blackcurrant fruit, savoury tannins and the STRUCTURE AND CONCENTRATION TO AGE.” ~ Tim Atkin, MW
You’ll find Thelema Mountain Vineyards situated on the South Easterly side of the Simonsberg Mountain range in Stellenbosch. A family owned and managed wine estate, the high altitude and the rich red soils are ideal for premium quality wine production. In 1983, Gyles Webb abandoned his accounting career in Durban to become a winemaker. With the help of his wife’s family, the McLean’s, Gyles bought Thelema and so began this family legacy. The manor house was restored and the first wines under the Thelema label were released in 1988. By the mid 90s Thelema’s wines sold out within a month after release, making it one of the most sought-after wine estates in South Africa. The Webb family and the Thelema team believes that grape quality is the single most important factor in serious winemaking, and their policy in one of minimum interference, allowing the wines to be a true expression of each vineyard. THELEMA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018 ACCOLADES: Tim Atkin Report 2021 – 93 points Greg Sherwood MW, 93 points Decanter World Wine Awards 2021, 91 points Now available for purchase at Wine-of-the-Month Club Why not join them for a wine tasting and sip and swirl your way through Thelema and Sutherland wines? Booking is advised and tastings takes place: Monday-Friday: 09h00-17h00 Saturdays: 10h00-15h00
WWW.THELEMA.CO.ZA Ph. 021 885 1924
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E. info@thelema.co.za
2021/11/18 03:22
Drinking in the Sun
Panel Report | wine
Our tastings of wines that are perfectly suited for summer—light-hearted and juicy, but always delivering a good punch of flavour By Irina von Holdt CWM
G
lorious summer—the great South African fun in the sun time is finally here. Let’s admit it—it’s been a gloomy year, but let some warm, golden sunshine spill in and in no time at all the whole picture brightens up— literally and figuratively. The essential sun—giver of warmth and light, our very source of life—ripens every crop, especially our all-important fruit and grapes, endowing them with luscious sweetness and, very importantly for our wines, gives our sunny SA wines the fullness and generosity for which they are known. A friend’s greeting is, “May you always walk in sunshine.” What a wonderful thought—so let’s enjoy the sun, of course with a glass of cool wine in one hand.
Bring on the Bubbly We are so lucky here in the southern hemisphere—our sunny summers include the celebrations of Christmas and New Year. It’s the time to always have a bottle of MCC in the fridge—being caught without chilled bubbly is a serious social no-no. And a dashed nuisance. Can we ever be disappointed by bubbly? Yes, well, the picky panel can, and at the big annual tasting there are concerns. The wines are fun and well made, delivering billions of bubbles, but there’s more to MCC than that. “There’s a lot here that is delicious and fruity. I expected, though, to find far more Reserve wines, and that’s a pity,” says Christine. “I found a lot of freshness and lively acidity, but not too much depth and complexity,” adds Claude. “Actually a bit disappointing,” says Dave. Well, he said it. Before it could go downhill any further, Christine adds tersely, “For me, they were mostly aperitif styles, not celebratory styles.” We notice some wines with lots of frothy mousse. Are they actually MCCs? Yes, they are, but it’s unusual. The distinction between fizzy and frothy, a characteristic of cheaper, carbonated sparkling wines, or the elegant tingling fine mousse that is the defining character
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Wines Tasted by the Panel MCC Wine-of-the-Month Club: Alvi’s Drift Brut Nature MCC NV Also liked: Benguela Cove Joie de Vivre Brut 2017, Kleine Zalze Brut NV, Kleine Zalze Vintage Brut 2015, L’Ormarins Blanc de Blanc 2015
of MCC is fundamental. It means the wine has spent less time on the lees during the second fermentation and also a reason for the lack of complexity that worried Claude. A minimum of 18 months on the lees is recommended, but serious producers will keep their wines on the lees for upwards of three years. Though it does add to the cost, it must be said. We move on to the sparkling rosés. For some panellists, these are the stars of the show. “The rosés are delicate and elegant at the same time, and the mousse is beautiful and fine,” says Clive. He should know, having worked some years at Villiera, famous for their MCCs. The rosés seduce with their appealing primary fruit flavours of strawberry and raspberry and their fine, lively mousse… and no one even mentioned their beautiful colours. We wind up with a further comment from Claude about how very few of the wines had received any oak treatment. True, maybe because
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of financial constraints due to the pandemic, which would also explain the lack of extra time on the lees. Money talks. Clive mentions that those wines with sugars below 10g./L had most probably not received any dosage. “Another pity,” says Christine. “It would have added more interest, more dimension.” No question—as a group, the rosés are the highlight of the tasting, with a few notable exceptions. It’s nice to know that those who like to make fun of pink bubblies—“Girl’s wine, bimbo’s wine!” are missing out because of a silly prejudice. Rosé MCC is a serious, stylish wine and, as a lover of bubbly, should be in your cellar. A Sea of Sauvignon Blancs Does this variety reflect the generosity of the sun? It certainly can, but, sadly, often doesn’t. What it does right now, however, is enjoy centrestage in the spotlight. Hugely fashionable, and always in demand, but our panel has to work hard to find worthy Sauvignons from a veritable sea of wannabes. Over many tastings, the criticisms revolve around two main issues—lack of varietal character and lack of balance. In order to develop its true varietal character, Sauvignon vines need to be planted in suitable areas, specifically cool areas. This may be a large generally-cool area such as Constantia, or it could be a specific windy, south-facing vineyard near the top of a slope. The grapes then need to ripen fully to develop their character. Lacking a perfect site, a way around this problem is to harvest a vineyard in two or three pickings— early grapes for lightness and aroma, the next picking (a week or so later) for proper ripeness and character, and
Wines listed in Alphabetical order: Alvi’s Drift Brut MCC NV, Asara Cap Classique 2017, Darling Blanc de Blanc 2019, Kleine Zlaze Vintage Brut Rosé NV, L’Ormarins Brut Classique Rosé NV, L’Ormarins Vintage Brut Rosé 2016, Paul Rene Chardonnay Brut 2017, Rijks MCC Brut 2015, Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2014, Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2019, Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut Rosé 2019, Spier Cap Classique Brut Rosé 2019, Steenberg Lady R Cap Classique NV, Thelema MCC 2016, Villiera Tradition Brut NV
Sauvignon Blanc Wine-of-the-Month Club: Highlands Road Sauvignon Blanc 2019 Also liked: DMZ Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Clos Malverne Devonet Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Le Bonheur Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Montagu Sauvignon Blanc 2020 Wines listed in Alphabetical order: Blue Crane Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Christina Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Clarington Sauvignon Blanc 2018, Clos Malverne Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Delheim Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Haskell Dombeya Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Marklew Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Ridgeback Lion Hound Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Ridgeback Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Tangled Tree Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Rhino Run Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Van Loveren Sauvignon Blanc 2020
Panel Report | wine
a third picking for weight and succulence. The problem of lack of balance, however, is up to the skill of the winemaker and it’s a useful exercise for him, or her, to taste their wine critically against others. Laboratory tests are readily available, but nothing beats a good palate and putting your wines up against the best in the country. Blind, of course. So what does the panel think? These are comments from multiple tastings as we trawled through many, many wines. “The alcohol should be at least 12.5%. Those that are less are too plain and uninteresting,” says Colin. Malu agrees. “Yes, they need a bit extra,” she says. “Something floral, or some mango, or nettles—if any of them that have those types of characteristics stand out.” But Colin has not finished yet. “Some are so badly made I thought they are just rather plain old PGC’s (Premier Gran Crû). I’m not being hard on the wines; they are just not good.” Then the old gripe. “Some are as acidic as battery acid,” from Greg. “As the world’s biggest supporter of Sauvignon Blanc, I am disappointed,” says Winnie sadly. “They are just too mean and green.” But it’s not all doom and gloom. We do find good wines. “The properly ripe ones are OK,” says Winnie, “but the low alcohol ones are not, and it’s not necessarily just that because we’ve had quite a few low-alcohol Sauvignons over the years that
we have liked.” “These are not as mean as I remember,” says Margaret, who has returned to the tasting room after a long absence. “Nice to see not too many high acid wines here.” Clive puts in a good word too. “From grapefruit to gooseberry,” he says, “we saw a whole spectrum of flavours.” So it can be done. Advice to winemakers: Give us some real flavour. It can be cool-climate green peppers, cut grass and herbs, or lovely ripe, more tropical passion fruit, asparagus and canned peas, all with an exciting sweet-sour twist and glittery mineral edge. Just so that we all know that it’s a Sauvignon and not a PGC. More than a Summer Fling Now, what could be more fun in the sun than a well-chilled rosé? The good news is that there are quite a few, but you need to decide what you want—an easy quaffer, or something with a bit
Wines Tasted by the Panel Rosé Wine-of-the-Month Club: Spier Signature Rosé 2019 Also liked: Eagle’s Nest Little Eagle Rosé 2020, Ken Forrester Rosé 2019, Spier Signature Rosé 2020, Waterkloof False Bay Rosé 2020 Wines listed in Alphabetical order: Bergsig Shiraz Rosé 2019, Drift Far From The Crowd Rosé 2018, Ernst Gouws & Co Cab Franc Rosé 2019, Hidden Valley Hidden Treasure Rosé 2019, Landskroon Blanc De Noir 2020, Longridge The Emily Rosé 2018, Maastricht Rosé 2019, Niel Joubert Blanc de Noir 2020, Perdeberg SSR Rosé 2019, Pink Valley Rosé 2019, Quoin Rock Namysto Rosé 2019, South West Sweet Rosé 2019, Theuniskraal Moscato Rosé 2019, Webersberg Rosé 2019, Weltevrede Turkish Delight Rosé 2019
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more weight and interest. Firstly, some hot news about how they’re made. Generally, it’s a matter of harvesting black grapes, giving them a light crush and soaking them for a short while (a matter of only hours) so that the skins lightly tint the juice, then quickly separating skins and wine. The obvious way of tinting white wine with a shot of red is not usually done as it yields a rather inferior wine. There is a third method used frequently these days and that is the use of saigner. A French word meaning ‘to bleed’, it refers to the technique of drawing off some juice from black grapes after crushing and before fermentation. This has two benefits—firstly, it concentrates the final red wine, which is the main aim and then, secondly, it yields some rather nice rosé on the way, called saigné. It is giving rise to some seriously interesting blends that we are seeing for the first time, for example, a Syrah/Grenache/ Cinsaut blend. “These are mainly easy and quaffable,” says Clive quite excitedly, “but when they have ripe peach and cherry then they’re really delicious,” “When they’re made like white wines they miss out,” says Malu. “They must be made like rosés.” “As a rule, they need to be blends,” says Colin, “as that adds to complexity. With the exception of Pinotage, that is, which does very well on its own. Also, the grapes must not be harvested too early.” Clive remains happy. “I found raspberries, watermelons…” Winnie homes in on a special wine: “I loved that Muscat de Frontignan.” Irina agrees. “Me too,” she says. “I’m glad that
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someone had the guts to do something special.” Winnie goes on, “I admire those who grow vineyards especially for rosé.” Clive comes back to earth. “There are quite a few quaffing wines here,” he says then tunes out again. “Well, that’s what it is,” says Claude emphatically. Winnie disagrees. “No, no, it’s an opportunity to make a really good wine. There’s definitely a gap in the market for serious rosé.” So when do we drink rosés? “Lunchtime,” says Claude. “Summertime!” says Colin. A Summer Red Yes, modern Pinotage can be a summer wine when made in a lighter, juicier, savoury style with not too much oak. Of all reds, Pinotage has the most accessible and palate-friendly fruitiness. Yes, it can be rich and heavy, but it’s the very versatility of the variety that is part of its charm. “I am pleasantly surprised—yeah, there are a few with rusty nails, but the best wines are excellent,” says Clive. “Some of the lighter textured wines were tangy and fun. I like them,” says Irina. Winnie joins in. “On the whole, very pleasant, but some coffee grounds, staves and those rusty nails. If using staves, don’t let it overshadow the
Wines Tasted by the Panel Pinotage Wine-of-the-Month Club: Nieuwe Haarlem Pinotage 2019 Also liked: Clos Malverne La Café Pinotage 2019, Doolhof Dark Lady Pinotage 2019, MAN Bosstok Pinotage 2019, Rhino Run Pinotage 2020 Wines listed in Alphabetical order: Allée Bleue Pinotage 2018, Bellevue 1953 Pinotage 2017, Bellevue Pinotage 2016, Bellevue Reserve Pinotage 2016, Bosman Pinotage 2016, Clos Malverne Reserve Pinotage 2016, Darling Reserve Old Blocks Pinotage 2018, Doolhof Signature Pinotage 2018, Juno Pinotage 2019, Neethlingshof The Owl Post Pinotage 2018, Saronsberg Weathered Hands Pinotage 2019, Simonsig Redhill Pinotage 2018, Van Loveren African Java Pinotage 2020
Panel Report | WINE
fruit, then it works.” “The guys need to work more carefully with staves,” says Irina, “and let’s face it, staves make a lot of sense. The oaking needs to be handled with more thought and sensitivity, though; some of these are just so clumsy and obvious.” Christine, however, is more critical. “I found very few that I liked,” she says. “There is competence and drinkability without being fantastic, nothing really outstanding.” At further tastings it becomes clear that what we are actually looking for is the fabled Pinotage fruit. It has so imprinted itself on our minds that when we don’t find it, we literally feel deprived. Again Clive leads the charge. “I’m a fan of Pinotage,” he says, “but I’m often disappointed. I like those with cherries, blackcurrants, mulberries and some floral notes, then I score them up.” Malu has a point too. “Balance can be an issue,” she says. “Overripe fruit, or too much
tannin, usually fruit tannin, and the less oak the better. It all obscures the fruit. We need more freshness.” Then Claude joins in. “A number of stave wines here,” he says, “but the effect must not be dominant. I like the paprika flavours and the less oak, the better.” We’ve all said it in different ways: we want more of that Pinotage fruit. Then Greg drops a bombshell. “We’re getting used to a lot of entry-level wines and not the sort of wines that celebrate Pinotage as an SA red benchmark,” he says. Hmm, true, there has indeed been a lack of stellar wines. Maybe they’re still in cask, delayed because of lockdown. But, hey, there’s nothing wrong with drinkability. Surely that’s the ultimate aim for all wine? We’ll drink to that. And may you always walk in sunshine.
To purchase these wines and more, head to our website
WWW.WINEOFTHEMONTH.CO.ZA
THE EYE OF THE BULL Stellekaya’s Merlot 2019 is inspired by the brightest star in the Constellation Taurus—a giant red star called Aldebaran. Aldebaran is known as the “Eye of the Bull” and means “The Follower” in Arabic. This is because it appears to follow the Hyades star cluster that forms the head of the bull. A bold medium-bodied red wine that is deep crimson in colour, Stellekaya’s Merlot 2018 showcases attractive dark berry fruit followed by delicious savoury and earthy notes. This signature Merlot is elegant with juicy soft tannins and has a good acidity present. Serve this wine alongside beef carpaccio, drizzled with homemade mayonnaise, topped with rocket and Parmesan shavings.
WWW.STELLEKAYA.COM
+27 (0) 66 549 6015 • wine@stellekaya.com
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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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Wine | Connoisseur’s Choice
Connoisseur’s
Choice A selection of top wines to try
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Connoisseur’s Choice | WINE
1. Taaibosch Crescendo 2018 (Price R300) Notes of white pepper, cloves and red berries give this wine delightful aromatics to pleasure the senses. The tension in the wine lends itself to an elegant finish, bringing together the various elements in a genteel fashion culminating in a well-polished wine. Cellar for 15+ years. PAIRING: Wagyu beef fillet.
2. Alto Rouge 2018 (Price R109) Lead pencil shavings, crushed red fruit and a hint of chocolate dominates the nose. Elegant red fruit flavours on the palate, backed-up by soft, elegant tannins. A stylish princely wine with good tannic structure that adds complexity. Cellar for 5+ years. PAIRING: Simply flavoured red meat, game and duck dishes.
3. Marklew Shiraz 2018 (Price R199) Polished cassis, loads of spice with silky tannins and smokey finish. Can be enjoyed now but will improve with bottle age and can still be enjoyed 10 years from vintage. Drink now or cellar up to 10 years. PAIRING: Venison, ostrich, beef and stews.
4. Boland Classic Merlot 2020 (Price R80) This elegant Merlot shows layers of fruitcake and cherry on the nose, which follow through on the palate. Hints of wood-spice and savoury notes linger with a smooth finish. An elegant wine with typical cultivar character. Enjoy now. PAIRING: Red meats such as fillet or seared steak, it is also delightful on its own.
5. Kranskop Chenin Blanc 2021 (Price R89) This wine has the typical Chenin Blanc characters and flavours of fruit, honey, quince and grass. Enjoy now. PAIRING: Chicken pie with a cream mushroom sauce and roasted vegetables.
6. Kranskop Rosé (Price R95) This petite sirah/viognier rosé is a very enjoyable wine with hints of strawberries and raspberries bursting forth on the nose. It has a sweet lingering aftertaste. Enjoy now. PAIRING: Curry and Mediterranean dishes.
7. Steenberg Rattlesnake Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (Price R159) White blossom, elderflower, fresh asparagus and cape gooseberry marry on both the nose and palate. Acidity and spice form the backbone, dominating on the palate, while a creamy texture rounds out the overall mouthfeel. The palate shows capsicum, nasturtium and lime. Enjoy now. PAIRING: Shellfish, a Thai curry accented by ginger and lemon grass, a savoury tart tatin or grilled calamari.
8. Saronsberg Shiraz 2019 (Price R299) The wine has a deep, dark purple colour with succulent ripe fruit flavours supported by expressive yet delicate floral notes and scents of violets and spice. The mouthfeel has depth and clarity of fruit with integrated oak flavours. Finely crafted tannins and a beautiful layered fruit infused finish. Drink now or cellar up to 5 years. PAIRING: Grilled or roast beef especially served rare and with a pepper sauce.
9. Meerlust Rubicon 2017 (Price R455) A classic vintage of this iconic Cape wine. Quintessential Rubicon nose with violets, ripe plum, cedarwood, fennel and intense spiciness. A typical liquorice note also evident on the nose. The palate is full bodied, structured but packed with fresh dark fruit and rounded, linear tannins. Cellar for 15 - 30 10 years. PAIRING: Steak, game, meat stew, roasted and grilled vegetables and cheeses.
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WINE | Connoisseur’s Choice
10. Meerlust Red 2019 (Price R229) Not every vintage is worthy of our flagship red blend Rubicon. Thus is born, in rare years, our collector’s Meerlust Red 2019. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot aged in French oak for 17 months. Intense fresh red fruit combines with floral, spicy notes in a medium-bodied wine with a soft, silky texture. Drink now or cellar up to 8 years. PAIRING: Venison, game, pot roast and noble cheese.
11. Kanonkop Pinotage 2019 (Price R469) Vibrant aromas of blueberries, ripe plums, black cherries, cinnamon and vanilla on the nose. The palate has flavours of berry compote, wild bramble, plum tart and spicy Christmas cake. Ripe tannins are intertwined between the layers of fruit. The subtle spicy tones and plush black cherry flavours on the lingering finish completes a very elegant wine. Cellar for 10 - 15 years. PAIRING: Venison meat, seared game fish and duck.
12. Compagniesdrift Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2018 (Price R105) This wine has a dark ruby red colour with a vibrant hue showing the youth of this wine. On the nose dark fruit aromas of blackcurrent and plums with notes of spice are detected. The Merlot adds to the sweet fruit flavours detected on the palate while the Cabernet Sauvignon adds to the dark fruit core that makes this wine a pleasant food companion. Cellar for 4 - 8 years. PAIRING: Roast meat and game.
13. Oude Compagnies Post Mourvédre 2019 (Price R199) This wine is a true expression of the Mourvedre grape growing in the rocky clay soils high up against the mountain slopes of the Tulbagh valley. Aromas of blue fruits and violets with a wild Fynbos undertone. Cellar for 4 - 8 years. PAIRING: Venison and lamb dishes.
14. Cavalli Colt Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (Price R195) The nose shows an abundance of dark berries and plums with prominent mint, eucalyptus, cigar box, roasted coffee and liquorice. A velvet palate complemented by elegant tannins helps to showcase the brighter red fruits. Cellar for 5 - 7 years. PAIRING: Dark meat or game.
15. Cavalli Black Beauty 2018 (Price R100) Floral, perfumed nose before red and black berries, white pepper, vanilla and spice. Palate is flavourful with good fruit density and well-structured tannins. Cellar for 5 - 8 years. PAIRING: Steak with chunky chips and a horseradish cream, venison or a pulled pork burger.
16. Anthonij Rupert Optima 2017 (Price R209) Dark fruits and spice on the nose. Cassis, blueberry, violet, touches of cedar, cocoa and tobacco leaf on the palate. The palate is soft and spicy with a velvety texture and powdery fine tannins. It is simultaneously rich, rounded and refined, softly appealing and structured from sympathetic oaking which is harmoniously integrated. Cellar for 10 -15 years. PAIRING: Fillet with mustard and brandy sauce.
17. Alvi’s Drift Brut Nature MCC NV (Price R299) Pale gold in colour with lime and wet stone aromas, earthy and dank rather than crisp and fresh. Delicate mid-palate mousse fresh and zesty slightly chewy textures on the finish giving the wine a food-friendly persistence. Drink now. PAIRING: Chinese and Thai dishes, lightly dressed seafood salads, fruit salads with red fruits and berries.
18. Swartland Hanepoot NV (Price R77) With flavours reminiscent of the Wilson toffee brand and predominant Muscat, the palate is as sweet and complementary as the bouquet with grapy flavours, raisins, honey. Drink now. PAIRING: Slice of olive chocolate salami.
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19. Namysto Rosé 2020 (Price R119) Aromatic, perfume with hints of musk. Attractive red berries and boiled sweets. Fresh, vibrant and well balanced. Beautiful fleshiness and texture on the palate with the persistent fruit on the finish that lingers well. Drink now. PAIRING: Perfect on its own, but also an ideal partner to most seafood dishes or the perfect partner to crayfish with homemade mayonnaise.
Where heritceallgeence meets ex
20. Niel Joubert Reserve Tempranillo 2020 (Price R170) This deep burgundy coloured wine shows subtle herbal aromas supported by rich caramel notes and concentrated dark fruit. Fleshy and well-rounded, it shows intense dark fruit, mocha and caramel flavours on the palate. Subtle sweetness, balanced acidity and structured tannins make for a wine with finesse. Cellar for 4 - 6 years. PAIRING: Grilled meats and vegetables, as well as smoked foods and Mexican dishes.
21. Vergelegen GVB Estate Blend 2015 (Price R579) Plum, chocolate, graphite and cassis and cedarwood on the nose, on the palate the fruit, tannin and acidity marry perfectly to offer balance and complexity, supported by flavours of black cherry, blackcurrants and refreshing minerals. Enjoy now or cellar for 10 - 20 years. PAIRING: Karoo lamb rack or beef fillet done on vine wood.
TASTING ROOM • RESTAURANT • FUNCTIONS • PICNICS Bellevue Wine Estate, Bottelary Road, Stellenbosch P. +27 21 865 2054 | E. info@bellevue.co.za @bellevue.wine.estate @bellevuewines
W W W. B E L L E V U E .C O. Z A
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WINE | Connoisseur’s Choice
22. Namysto Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 (Price R169) Red berry aromas—cherry, mulberry and cassis—with a dash of peppercorn. On the palate expect that spiciness in subtle hints of tobacco and leather and a velvety finish. Drink now or cellar for 10+ years. PAIRING: Red meat dishes and an array of cheeses.
24. Meerlust Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 (Price R369) On the nose the wine shows pronounced plum and classic cedarwood-cigar box notes with lifted dark fruit aromas. There is the characteristic hallmark aromas of fennel and liquorice associated with Meerlust Cabernet. On the palate the wine is full bodied but with richness of fruit and supple tannic structure. Drink now or cellar up to 15 years. PAIRING: Roast meat and game.
23. Meerlust Merlot 2017 (Price R344) Intense dark brambly fruit on the nose, mulberry, liquorice and damson plum with hints of dark chocolate and spice. The full bodied palate offers generous, ripe, pure Merlot fruit with refreshing acidity, structured yet silky tannins and pronounced length. There is a core of juiciness, opulence and richness typical of the variety. Cellar for up to 12 years. PAIRING: Red meats, game and strong cheeses.
DID YOU KNOW? You can join our Olive Oil Club today and receive the best local olive oils and olive oil products from around South Africa. You can choose how often you would like to receive them and they’ll be delivered to your door. Call 021 492 4100 | www.wineofthemonth.co.za
To purchase these wines and more, head to our website
WWW.WINEOFTHEMONTH.CO.ZA
CLEANING UP at several local and international AWARDS At the MICHELANGELO INTERNATIONAL WINE AWARDS, Flagstone celebrated with Treaty Tree Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2018 awarded the Trophy for Best White Blend; Double Golds for Music Room Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Free Run Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2020 and Free Run Sauvignon Blanc 2020; Golds for Word of Mouth Viognier 2020, Velvet Red Blend 2017, Dark Horse Shiraz 2017, Truth Tree Pinotage 2020 and Dragon Tree Cape Blend 2019. Flagstone was the best performing winery at the 2021 NATIONAL WINE CHALLENGE competition with the most category wins and the most wines in the Top 100 with 3 Grand Cru Awards, 5 Double Platinum Awards and 3 Double Gold Awards. Free Run Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2020 is once again a Top 10 Sauvignon Blanc at the SAUVIGNON BLANC SA awards and one of four wines to repeat this feat. At the PEROLD ABSA CAPE BLEND awards, the Dragon Tree Cape Blend 2018 was in the Top 5 for second time. At the ABSA TOP 10 PINOTAGE awards, the 7th vintage of Writer’s Block Pinotage received a Top 10 Award with its 2018 release. At the SHIRAZ CHALLENGE, Dark Horse Shiraz 2017 achieved a Top 12 Shiraz in South Africa. At the SA NATIONAL YOUNG WINE SHOW, Fiona 2021 was selected as both the best regional Pinot Noir from Darling and the National best Pinot Noir. Flagstone was the top multiple winning winery at the ULTRA VALUE WINE CHALLENGE 2021 with 17 wins including 3 Double Golds and 6 Golds, and 3rd overall in the Vineyard Consistency Award.
One of South Africa’s most awarded wines, perfected through creative perseverance.
RI CS AL EN NTOOI S SPE E O UTT HFAO FR AN CO U RR S O N S U N D E R T H E A G E O F 1 8 . D R I N K R E S P O N S I B LY. 5 8 NS O
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heritage in a bottle W
Spotlight on The Kruger Family Reserve Range
hen Stellenview Premium Wines founder, winemaker and entrepreneur, Reino Kruger established the brand in 2009 (primarily for export markets to the Far East) it made perfect sense to pay homage to his family with one of the ranges, namely the Kruger Family Reserve wines. The Kruger Family heritage dates back to the early 1700’s with the first settlers to South Africa. The wines in the range, which comprise a Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz , Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay are complex and elegant. The Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Chardonnay represent the best fruit, meticulously vinified and aged in oak barrels with very little intervention, while the Sauvignon Blanc is unwooded with extended lees contact.
Made from 100% Shiraz grapes, the Kruger Family Reserve Shiraz 2017 is part of an
award-winning lineage, scooping the Trophy for the Best Shiraz at the 2021 Michelangelo International Wine & Spirits Awards. The wine is best described as being a dark plum colour with aromas of liquorice and hints of white pepper on the nose. On the palate the wine is fruity with firm tannins, which add body to the end result. Another stellar wine in the range also racking up the awards is the Kruger Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, which earlier this year was named the South African Wine of the Year as well as a Double Gold at the China Wine & Spirit Awards. Dark red in colour with aromas of vanilla and coconut, perfectly complemented by blueberry flavours. These flavours carry through onto the palate with a fine tannin structure, and fruity finish. Gone are the days when you turned your nose up when offered a Chardonnay, because South Africa has been producing some stellar wines of late, and the Kruger Family Reserve Chardonnay 2017 no doubt has a place on this stage. Reino describes this wooded Chardonnay as being a pale straw colour with aromas of citrus, creamy oak, butter and flint. The creamy texture follows through onto the palate with an elegant finish, resulting in a medium to full bodied wine. Last but by no means least in this impressive range is the Kruger Family Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2020, a Double Gold winner at the 2021 Michelangelo International Wine & Spirits Awards. The wine has aromas of ginger and pineapple, intermingled with fynbos flavours. As you take a sip you immediately think of the wine as being vibrant and fresh, with hints of granadilla, ripe apple and pear.
The range is available to purchase online at www.stellenviewwines.com or www.wineofthemonth.co.za
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ove L Lockdown in a time of
Dave Biggs on how true love always wins
T
rue love conquers all. Not even the worst pandemic in living memory has managed to separate true wine lovers from the object of their affections. In spite of liquor stores being temporarily closed earlier this year, I heard of no wine lovers actually having to go without their favourite drink.
I know what they mean when they say, “love will find a way.” When the lockdown on alcohol sales was imposed many distraught wine lovers rushed to their store cupboards and made gloomy calculations—pointless calculations, actually, because nobody knew how long the lockdown would last. When the pointlessness became clear the address books came out and wine lovers began searching through their lists of wine-producing contacts in case there were any favours to be repaid. “Ah, yes. I gave Frikkie a lift home after that great celebration last August when he was unable to find his car keys. Maybe he’ll have a few cases of Sauvignon Blanc he needs to get rid of.” One by one favours were called in and to be quite honest, the winemakers weren’t complaining. They were suffering just as much as the rest of us from lack of sales. A flourishing under-the-counter wine trade quickly grew up. Unlabelled wines changed hands daily. 6 0
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The main difference between this situation and normality was that the Receiver of Revenue was left out of the sly, Covid-19 economic equation. Wine conversations changed. Instead of saying proudly: “This is the 2017 vintage of their Merlot and it won two gold medals,” people said, “I got this dry red from Sam who knows the brother of a winemaker in Robertson. I think it’s pretty good. Especially at R50 a bottle.” There was an interesting side issue to this illicit trade; when you bought unlabelled wines you couldn’t be impressed by big-name labels or clever advertising campaigns. Drinkers became more honest. “I don’t know who made this blend, but I really like it.” Or: “I got this from Steve’s brother who is a friend of the winemaker. It’s a bit rough and tannic, but it’s cheap and you can’t be choosey in these tough times.” It seems almost a pity to return to the
“real” world, where clever advertising and elegant labels can cloud your judgment and persuade you to spend big money on inadequate wines. This is why the Wine-of-the-Month Club provides such an important service. Every Monday the judging panel tastes a selection of up to 80 wines, identified only by numbers. From these, the best examples of each category are selected— with no information on the label or price of the sample. The judges are all experienced and the wines compete on quality alone. Only the vintages and alcohol levels are revealed. The top-scoring wines in each category are sent to club members. If there’s one message to be gained from the Covid-19 lockdown it is that the wine fraternity is a loyal and closeknit family and whatever happens in the rest of the world, we members of the wine family will stick together to ensure nobody goes thirsty. Heaven forbid!
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