VOL 284
Sculpture Gardens to Visit in the Winelands
SIX CLASSIC WINE & SALAD PAIRINGS IS DRY WINE FARMING THE FUTURE?
i e l l a v Ri e t RENDEZVOUS
EaglesNestWines
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Eagles’ Nest, located on the crest of Constantia Nek pass, is nestled at the foot of the awe inspiring Table Mountain. This pristine and boutique family owned vineyard has in recent years gained a striking reputation for both its beauty and award winning wines. Uniquely characteristic of its wines is its signature of finesse, derived from the cooler climate conditions its vines are exposed to as a result of its elevation and close proximity to the oceanic body that is False Bay, thus delivering very distinctive wines not found elsewhere in South Africa. Quality and consistency is paramount at Eagles’ Nest. Unique terroir, combined with meticulous attention to detail in the vineyards and cellar, yields wines that are the epitome of elegance and balance.
w w w. e ag l es nest w ines .c om
Constantia Main Road, Constantia, Cape Town | Phone: 021 794 4095 | info@eaglesnestwines.com
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Explaining
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Colin Collard
‘THE WORD COLLECTION’
EDITOR Kari Collard
Ross Sleet Managing Director of Rascallion Wines, takes inspiration from a number of sources when it comes to creating the marriage of culture and wine. The Word Collection is inspired by his love of literature and language. Having fun with language is as much a part of human nature as enjoying wine in the company of friends, no matter which language is being spoken. Pandiculation means a lazy stretch after a nap or when waking.
ART DIRECTOR Taryn Breetzke FREELANCE DESIGNER Chloe Damstra WINE BU YER / PUBLISHER Natalie Collard WINE TASTING COORDINATOR / ASSISTANT TO BU YER Dean Townsend
PANDICULATION 2018 is a blend of Shiraz 88%, and Grenache 12%, and is our take on a Southern Rhône style of wine. All the fruit was from the Stellenbosch region, and the prominent flavours of sweet ripe blackberries and infused rich plums combine with delicate white pepper and subtle cinnamon spicy aromas to create a wine of elegance and finesse.
REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS David Biggs & Irina von Holdt (articles) OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Lorraine Lines (Consultant)
TIM ATKIN REPORT: 91 POINTS | PLATTER WINE GUIDE: 4 STARS
CONTACT WINE DELIVERY OR WINE ORDERS call 021 492 4100, fax 086 674 3966, or email info@wineofthemonth.co.za. WRITE TO THE EDITOR: Email us on cheers@wineofthemonth.co.za or write to The Chairman, Connoisseur, P.O. Box 30, Constantia 7848. Send press releases via email to taryn@wineofthemonth.co.za. All contributions are edited for space and style. FACEBOOK: @wineofthemonthsa TWITTER: @WotMSA INSTAGRAM: @wineofthemonth
ABV: 14.31% pH: 3.45 RS: 3.1g/lt
ADVERTISING call on 021 492 4102 or email natalie@wineofthemonth.co.za.
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South African Connoisseur is published every alternate month by Converge (Pty) Ltd, Capricorn Boulevard South, Capricorn Business Park, Muizenberg, Cape Town, 7945. © Copyright 2020. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Liability. While every care is taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views and opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Converge (Pty) Ltd, the publication or the publisher.
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WWW.RASCALLIONWINES.CO.ZA Tel: +27 (0) 78 886 2246 | @RascallionWines 11 Distillery Road, Bosman’s Crossing, Stellenbosch
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Sculpture Gardens to Visit in the Winelands
CONTENTS 06 WHAT’S ON? EVENTS IN AND AROUND SA 07 WINE & DINE: WHAT’S NEW IN FOOD AND DRINK 08 YOUR WINE QUESTIONS ANSWERED 09 SIX SCULPTURE GARDENS WITH A SIDE OF WINE 14 SEVEN SIMPLE WINE AND SALAD PAIRINGS 16 A VISIT TO ROBERTSON’S RIETVALLEI
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DAVE BIGGS ON DRY WINE FARMING 20 TRENDY TIKTOK INSPIRED RECIPES 25 IRINA VON HOLDT REPORTS ON THE LATEST PANEL TASTINGS 30 CONNOISSEUR’S CHOICE—A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY 32 DAVID BIGGS ON THE RECENT ALCOHOL BAN 33 EXPERIENCE SAXENBURG 18
SIX CLASSIC WINE & SALAD PAIRINGS IS DRY WINE FARMING THE FUTURE?
Rie tv a ll ei RENDEZVOUS
ON THE COVER Rietvallei’s CEO Kobus with his wife Elizabeth and their children Esté, Annie, Austin and Johnny. Turn to p.16 to discover all the estate has to offer.
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Our estate, it’s part of us. Family-owned and family-run, we continue our story, it’s one of dreaming big, of a connection to the land and a desire to leave a legacy. In close proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, on the foothills of the Helderberg mountain, where nature reigns, we are custodians of our 300-year-old estate. The next time you pop in for a world-class tasting or to stock up on your favourite Morgenster’s award-winning wines and extra virgin olive oils, allow us to share our story and passion with you.
Shop online for our award-winning wines & extra virgin olive oils at www.morgenster.co.za WE’RE OPEN F R OM M ONDAY T O S UNDAY 0 9 :0 0 – 1 7: 00 YOU CA N F IND U S ON V E R GE L E GE N AV E NUE , S OM ER S ET W ES T, C A PE TO W N , S O U TH A FR I C A CONTA CT: TA STINGR OOM @M OR GE NS T E R .C O.Z A | 021 852 1738 | WWW. M O R G E N S T E R . C O . Z A
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REMEMBER THAT?
Creative workshops p.7
Rietvallei Estate p.16
TikTok inspired recipes p.20
Sculptures in the winelands p.9
A few nights ago I watched a series about the human mind—one episode I found particularly interesting was to do with memory. The episode looked at how our brain stores, processes and retrieves memories. Despite being our mind’s most powerful tool, sadly our memories aren’t as reliable as we may think (or, in my case, even up to what it used to be). Even our most important memories—those biggies that create and shape our life story—aren’t perfect recordings. Like a kitchen’s wooden floorboards, memories shift and warp over time. This got me thinking, when we (one day) reflect back on the lockdown, what will we remember? How will these memories alter and change? Holding onto a loved one we lost, getting that SMS test result, or hugging someone we hadn’t seen in a long, long time? Only time will tell. Of course, I’m not alone in my readiness for this pandemic to become a distant memory. But until it does, let’s make some good memories. Book that engagement or wedding date. Invite an old friend over. Open all the reds you’ve been keeping for special occasions. Pop those bubbly corks. Flick through the first few pages of this autumn issue. You’ll see we’ve included a few fun, COVID-friendly events and creative workshops to attend. How we’ve missed you, events! From interactive workshops to giant-sized sculptures, we take a walk through some beautiful sculpture gardens in the winelands. From Spier to La Motte, we’ve plotted out all the must-see destinations for wine and art-lovers alike. Still sipping on wine, on p.16 we head to the newly refurbished Rietvallei Estate outside the small town of Robertson and that dates back to 1864—and discover everything this farm has to offer. Swartland is where South Africa’s best-known dry-farmed wines come from. On p.18 David Biggs takes a closer look at dry wine farming methods—and if it is indeed the future. On the topic of dry, how about pairing your next Salad Nicoise with a nice, dry rosé? On p.14 we match some delicious wines with seven classic salads. Still in the kitchen, we share some fun TikTok Inspired Recipes that got us thinking about wonderfully creative ways to do seemingly ordinary things. Not forgetting, of course, valuable information on all the latest and greatest in wine. Now, if only I could remember the name of that documentary…
CHAIRMAN OF WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB
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SPIER LIGHT ART 2021, 19 MARCH - 18 APRIL Once again Spier hosts their muchanticipated night-time adventure for the whole family to enjoy. The third instalment of SPIER LIGHT ART will once again see a dazzling array of interactive artworks using light, sound and video. Entrance to the event is free and the lights are switched on at dusk. www.spier.co.za
WHAT’S ON PICTURE CREDIT: COURTESY BABYLONSTOREN
Events and Workshops Around SA
C H O C O L AT E WORKSHOPS, ONGOING Acclaimed South African artisanal chocolate company WINSTON & JULIA has recently launched its very own outlet at Agri-Park in Stellenbosch. In addition to the shop, the new space also incorporates an area for workshops. Here, visitors can experience fun and relaxed classes where they can learn to create their very own chocolate treats. www.winstonandjulia.co.za
AUTUMN DÉCOR FROM THE GARDEN, 31 MARCH 2021, 10AM - 1PM Another unique offering from BABYLONSTOREN: a hands-on workshop celebrating all things autumn by harvesting the farm’s diverse seasonal flora to use as home décor. Throughout the 4-hour workshop, guests can learn about the estate’s various autumn produce and how to create their own posy or bouquet. Presented by the oh-so-talented Gundula Deutschländer and Constance Stuurman, the workshop will be followed by a delicious lunch at the Greenhouse Restaurant. Cost is R700pp and space is limited. www.babylonstoren.com/workshops
S U N D O W N S U N D AY S AT DURBANVILLE HILLS, NOW - 28 MARCH While the warm weather is still with us, every Sunday afternoon DURBANVILLE HILLS will host their popular Sundown Sundays from 3pm-6pm. Just 20 minutes from Cape Town’s CBD, you can end your weekend with live music, views for days, fine wines and early dinner options. www@durbanvillehills.co.za THE GRANDE ART ESCAPE, 23 - 25 MARCH
GRANDE PROVENCE invites both budding and established artists to tap into their creative side together with
the talented young artist Alex Zinhanga. Art (and wine) lovers can either enjoy a day class or full weekend package at this luxurious Franschhoek estate. The Grande Art Escape accommodation package includes a 3-day art workshop, 2-nights accommodation at the owner’s cottage with breakfast and light lunch, all for R3800pp or book a day class for R300pp per session. Email events@grandeprovence.co.za to book your classes. 6
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SOIL-TO-FORK: NEW SHARING PLATES With Executive Chef Allistaire Lawrence behind the pass, THE WERF RESTAURANT AT BOSCHENDAL is greeting the ‘new normal’ of 2021 with a fresh approach to its acclaimed soil-to-fork cuisine. Here, Chef Allistaire is embracing the global trend of sharing plates to showcase the organic produce of this storied Cape farm. Recognising the need for a more accessible, less formal, dining experience, Chef Lawrence has evolved The Werf ’s multi-course fine-dining offering into a relaxed ‘small plate’ experience, tapping into the need for family, food and reconnection. For booking or enquiries, email reservations@boschendal.co.za.
WINE & DINE What’s New in Food and Wine
WE LOVE LOCAL After the crippling impact that Covid has had on small businesses across South Africa, more than ever, we need to support local. LOUISVALE WINERY in Stellenbosch is on a mission to support and promote local SA brands by allocating them shelf space at the farm’s deli to showcase their products. At the deli, you’ll find Louisvale’s range of home-made rusks, jams and frozen meals created by executive Chef Kirstie du Toit. Happy shopping! If you would like to include your products or find out more, visit www.louisvalewine.com.
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The Spice of Life
The next time you head to Franschhoek, make sure to try the new restaurant on the block called EPICE. This is the latest venture from the team behind La Colombe, La Petite Colombe, Foxcroft, and Protégé. Are you wondering about the name? Well, the word Epice is derived from the French word épice, meaning spice (and is pronounced eh-peace). You can expect an intimate fine-dining restaurant located at Le Quartier Français, Huguenot Rd, Franschhoek. Epice is headed by chef Charné Sampson (previously sous chef at La Colombe, and features a flavourpacked menu. Go to www.epice.co.za to find out more.
Happy Birthday, Kaapse Vonkel!
Once upon a time (around 1971) in a galaxy far, far away (Stellenbosch), the first bottle of KAAPSE VONKEL was popped. This iconic MMC was the result of the passion and perseverance of the Malan Family patriarch, Frans Malan. Since then, Simonsig and the Malans have proudly continued the tradition and developed one of SA’s most-loved MCCs. To celebrate half a century in the making, Simonsig has released Kaapse Vonkel’s updated packaging and a new look for the Kaapse Vonkel Satin Nectar and Satin Nectar Rosé. Here’s to many more, KV! The new bottles are available at www.simonsig.co.za and www.wineofthemonth.co.za.
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I CAN BUY A PERFECTLY DRINKABLE BOTTLE OF WINE FOR LESS THAN R100 FROM THE WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB BUT I OFTEN SEE BOTTLES OF WINE ADVERTISED FOR R500 OR MORE. How do the producers justify this vast difference in price when both products are simply made from fermented grape juice? Many factors are involved in the making of wine, any of which can affect the price of the final product. Some grape varieties—and some areas—yield huge tonnages of grapes from every hectare. In high rainfall areas, or where the vines are irrigated, the juice is rather dilute in character, but cheap to produce. Some high-end wines are matured in new oak barrels, which are expensive and add a special dimension to the flavour. Most top-end wines are skilfully blended by master winemakers, using only the best grapes from each harvest. In some cases, the individual grapes are sorted on a special moving table and any defective, or unripe berries are discarded. Some areas produce wines of a unique and soughtafter flavour, but in limited quantities. Each of these factors add to the final cost of the wine. Remember that a Rolex watch can cost many thousands of rands, but you can buy a watch for less than R100 and it will tell you exactly the same time as that expensive Rolex. If your R50 bottle gives you the pleasure you expect from your wine, go for it. That’s the joy of wine; it gives pleasure to all kinds of people. 8
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ON A HOT SUMMER’S DAY MOST OF MY FRIENDS PREFER BEER TO WINE. Are there any wines that can be served as long, chilled thirst-quenchers without causing drunkenness or drowsiness? Several wine-based drinks could fit the bill. Try an Italian-style Sangria, for example, made from equal portions of red wine and orange juice, or a Buck’s Fizz—orange juice and dry sparkling wine, or a spritzer made of dry white wine and soda water. Or fill a tall glass with crushed ice and pour red Muscadel over it. They’re all summer thirst quenchers.
YOUR WINE FAQS YOUR WINE QUESTIONS ANSWERED How do wine producers justify a vast difference in price? Do all red wines get better with age? Are there any wines that can be served without causing drunkenness or drowsiness?
I RECENTLY OPENED A BOTTLE OF RED WINE THAT HAD BEEN IN MY WINE CUPBOARD FOR ABOUT 10 YEARS. I thought red wine was meant to improve with age, but this was frankly awful. More like vinegar than wine. I took a few sips and poured the rest down the drain. What went wrong with it? Some wines are made to age gracefully and others are designed to be drunk quite young. In this rushed modern world not many people have the patience— or the facilities—to age wine in optimum conditions. For the same reason most modern winemakers design their wines to be enjoyed within a year or two of bottling. This is why each of the wines selected by the Wine-of-the-Month Club panel comes with a recommended “sell-by” date. If you want to enjoy your wines at their best, take note of the recommended ageing potential on the tag.
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Sculptures in the Winelands | FEATURE
A Walk toREMEMBER Along with FINE WINES and GOOD FOOD, some estates have SOMETHING EXTRA TO OFFER
‘Cheetah’ Dylan Lewis DELAIRE GRAFF ESTATE
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FEATURE | Sculptures in the Winelands
Wine has always been associated with art. Enjoying the two (together or apart) shows appreciation for the good things in life. It’s about recognising the creativity and talent put into both. So it’s no wonder many wine estates have galleries, art installations and sculpture gardens to enjoy alongside their wines. Here, we take a look at a few wine farms that have sculptures and artworks dotted throughout their estates. While enjoying delicious wines you can admire their beautiful works of art.
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‘Creative Block’ Featuring various artists from the Creative Block project
BLOCKS IN ’BOSCH With a long and rich history, SPIER has been synonymous with art since the very beginning. While taking a stroll through the estate, you’ll discover wonderful works of art and installations from the Spier Art Collection—one of the largest local collections in the country. Next, you’ll find Spier’s ‘Growing for Good’ learning initiative. Named the Creative Block, Spier invites up-and-coming artists to create works on an 18cm x 18cm blank block. The best of the blocks are then exhibited and made available for purchase. Before you go, be sure to visit the Spier Mosaic Kraal—SA’s first outdoor mosaic exhibition which offers employmentbased training in professional mosaic and ceramics. www.spier.co.za ‘The Dying Slave’ Marco Cianfanelli in collaboration with Spier Architectural Arts
‘Mosaic Kraal’ Featured artwork by Lindile Magunya in collaboration with Spier Arts Academy 1 0
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'Arching Type' Marlene Steyn
'Holderstebolder' Angus Taylor
'Kin' Jodi Brenner
PICNIC ANYONE? Steenberg’s expansive SCULPTURE GARDEN AT NORVAL FOUNDATION features three-dimensional installations by both local and international artists. A bit of a hidden gem, this serene sculpture garden sits alongside a freshwater wetland and is surrounded by lush, indigenous flora—making it an ideal spot for a picnic. The Sculpture Garden’s exhibition includes a mixture of long-term loans and works from the Norval Foundation Homestead Art Collection. The Norval Foundation describes itself as, “A centre for the research, education and exhibition of 20th and 21st-century visual art from South Africa and beyond.” www.norvalfoundation.org
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LOOKING AHEAD Sitting pretty in the Franschhoek Valley, the luxurious Grande Provence spreads across an expansive 20 hectacres of land. In and around the grounds (and as an extension of their art galley), GRANDE PROVENCE’S SCULPTURE GARDEN
showcases a continually evolving collection of large works in a variety of different mediums. Of course, a forever favourite is the solo exhibition by the acclaimed Anton Smit. Famous for his enormous head and face sculptures, this is a must-see. Currently, pieces from his “Masks” and “Female Figures” collections can be viewed. www.grandeprovence.co.za
‘Stream of Consciousness’ Anton Smit SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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FEATURE | Sculptures in the Winelands
‘Fractal I’ Angus Taylor
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DOUBLE THE DELIGHT From the moment you arrive at TOKARA in Stellenbosch, Robert Mondavi’s words ring true, “Making good wine is a skill, but making great wine is an art.” Over the years Tokara’s strong connection with art has evolved into creating a small gallery space by the winery entrance and a sculpture garden near the farm’s Delicatessen. Curated by Julia Meintjes, the exhibition changes quarterly with both historic and contemporary works. Just up the hill, you’ll find the outdoor sculpture garden that showcases works by talented local artists. www.tokara.com
'Disclosing Decay' Angus Taylor
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‘Faith’ Anton Smit
A GARDEN OF ART Handpicked from his private collection, owner Laurence Graff has chosen to exhibit over 400 pieces of art and sculpture at the lavish DELAIRE GRAFF estate. With the likes of artistic heavyweights such as Anton Smit, Lionel Smit, Vladimir Tretchikoff, William Kentridge and Dylan Lewis guests are pretty spoilt for choice. Plus, Delaire Graff doesn’t charge visitors a fee to enter the property, so you can have a free-of-charge wander filled with notable works. Delaire Graff ’s garden is an artwork in itself, created by the award-winning landscape designer, Keith Kirsten. Overflowing with indigenous flora, the gardens make for a fitting backdrop to the works of art. www.delaire.co.za
THE FIRST LADIES OF FRANSCHHOEK Never one to do things by half measures, La Motte not only has an unmissable sculpture garden but also offers weekly guided tours for visitors. As soon as you arrive at this Franschhoek favourite, you are greeted by the Wine Bearer. Standing a whopping four metres tall and weighing 560 kilograms, she’s one good-looking lady. During the LA MOTTE SCULPTURE WALK, visitors can enjoy a tour of 11 female sculptures on the estate. The guided walk ends off with a tasting of the estate’s limited release La Motte Méthode Cap Classique paired with a traditional French Madeleine under the oak trees. Then pop into the art gallery dedicated to one of South Africa’s most famous painters, Jacob Hendrik Pierneef. www.la-motte.com
‘Harvest Girl' Toby Megaw
‘The Wine Bearer’ Toby Megaw SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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FEATURE | Salad & Wine Pairings
Say, did that crispness come from the iceberg OR THE SAUVIGNON BLANC?
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s we soak up our remaining warm weather, it’s safe to say there’ll still be plenty of salads on the menu. Although salads are mostly a simple food, (depending on the home chef) they can become a little more complex when you throw in exotic ingredients like pine nuts, pomegranate seeds and Pecorino shavings. However, for the sake of keeping things simple, below we pair seven wines with seven classic salads.
A FRENCH AFFAIR
With its mix of green beans, hard-boiled eggs, tuna, tomatoes and anchovies a NICOISE SALAD has plenty of delicious flavours happening all at once. Why not think about pairing this French classic with a nice dry rosé? A rosé is light enough to complement the greens, yet powerful enough to pair with the rich tuna and creamy eggs. Our pick: Waterford Estate Rose-Mary 2019 (Price R109)
WHERE TO START?
Like with any food and wine pairing, the trick is to make sure the flavours of the food are not dulled by the wine’s body or acidity. And, equally, that the taste or texture of the dish doesn’t leave the wine flat on the palate. When thinking about a good wine and salad pairing, consider the dominant flavours sitting on top of those lettuce leaves. How these can work with your wine, without one overpowering the other? A good starting point is that most salads will pair well with the fresher and lighter side of the wine spectrum. For the most part, that ol’ complex red sitting on your wine rack will be far too heavy and tannic to pair with a simple salad. To help you out, we share a few simple guidelines to follow and experiment with along your wine journey.
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DID SOMEONE SAY PARMESAN? Salads dressed in strong, creamy dressings need a slightly weightier wine with a little oomph behind it. Something like a gently oaked Chardonnay will cut right through those salty anchovies and oily croutons that make CAESAR SALADS such a firm favourite. Be warned, an overly oaky Chardonnay might overpower the various flavours in the salad. Our pick: Canto Unwooded Chardonnay 2020 (Price R109)
GET ME TO THE GREEK
Feta, olives, onions, tomatoes… the gangs all here! Add an oily vinaigrette to the mix and you’ve got yourself an all-time classic. All the good stuff found in a GREEK SALAD should be paired with a wine of a similar sharpness. Try serving this salad alongside a crisp Sauvignon Blanc, the herbaceous notes will complement the olives and oregano. Plus, the zesty fruity notes will hit home with the tomatoes. Our pick: Cape of Good Hope Sauvignon Blanc 2018 (Price R140)
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Salad & Wine Pairings | FEATURE
THE ULTIMATE AUTUMN SALAD A NEW YORK STATE OF MIND
Traditionally made with fresh apple, chopped celery, walnuts and grapes, the famous WALDORF SALAD isn’t complete without its signature creamy mayo-style dressing. An extra juicy, aromatic Gewürztraminer provides a bit of weight and all the right kind of sweetness. Plus, a good Gewürztraminer carries enough richness to match that heavy mayo. Our pick: Van Loveren Special Late Gewürtztraminer 2020 (Price R85)
When roasted, butternut squash is fundamentally sweet with a hint of savoury earthiness. In general, a BUTTERNUT AND FETA SALAD’S sweet squash and salty feta pairs nicely with rich white blends. The high fruit flavour and medium body of a white blend make it a natural fit alongside the hearty roasted veg toppings and peppery rocket. Our pick: Rascallion 45 RPM 2019 (Price R117)
A SWEET & SOUR MIX
The three staple flavours you’ll find in any classic Asian-style crunchy NOODLE SALAD are honey, ginger and sesame. Perhaps a slightly complex mix of flavours to pair wine with, but this trio will sing alongside a bottle of Riesling. This varietal will complement the sweet, tangy flavours found in a noodle salad while simultaneously cooling any heat or spice. Our pick: De Wetshof Mine d’Or Riesling 2018 (Price R112)
FEELING FRUITY
Sweets for my sweet? The soft, sweet flavours of Muscadel are destined to be served with a fresh and colourful FRUIT SALAD. The lip-smacking sweet notes of a Muscadel are balanced out by the fresh and vibrant acidity of the fruits that make up a classic-style fruit salad. So reach for the Muscadel to effortlessly match the abundance of sugar and acids found in a fruit salad. Our pick: De Krans Premium Moscato Perle 2019 (Price R72)
So, there you go. Once you get the gist of wine and salad pairings, your at-home salads will never be the same again. Most importantly, remember to have fun discovering different wine and food pairings. Experiment with what works and what doesn’t while enjoying the process. If you like sipping a glass of Pinotage with your mixed greens, then keep doing it.
THREE TIPS ON PAIRING WINE WITH SALADS
• Dress for Success: To make your salad vinaigrettes a little more wine-friendly, try and tone down their tartness. Add a little mayonnaise, cream or honey, or swap fresh orange or grapefruit juice for a squeeze of lemon and lime. • Don’t Ditch Reds Completely: Higher-acid reds with herbal and floral notes go well with balsamic vinaigrette as well as salads with meat, cheese, nuts and dried fruit. • When in Doubt Turn to a Trusty Sauvignon Blanc: If you are ever unsure, opt for a good Sauvignon Blanc. Sauvignon Blanc’s high acidity and herbaceous notes will complement most salads well. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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ADVERTORIAL | Rietvallei
‘Rietvallei invites guests to sit on the spacious porch overlooking the luscious lawns, the beautiful garden and breath-taking views of the Langeberg mountains while enjoying delicious award- winning wines.’
The Magic of
RIETVALLEI O
Discovering the ART OF WINEMAKING since 1864
ne of South Africa’s oldest family owned wine estates, you’ll find Rietvallei in the picturesque town of Robertson. Owned and run by the Burger family, from generation to generation, the art of storytelling has long been an intricate part this family. Now in its sixth generation, Rietvallei celebrates 150 years of ownership under one family. 1. THE LOCATION Rietvallei lies in the Klaas Voogds ward–about eight kilometers east of Robertson town towards Little Karoo. This region’s unique soil structure and climatic influences make it an ideal location for wine grape cultivation. Intimate knowledge of these soils, understanding 1 6
the interaction between nature and vine, and visionary winemaking practices, lie at the heart of Rietvallei’s premier winemaking over generations. 2. THE HISTORY The farm was bought in 1864 by Alewyn Burger for his son Jacobus Francois. Koos Burger farmed the estate for many years and was 70 years old when he planted a Muscadel vineyard on the farm in 1908— today the oldest of its kind in South Africa. 3. THE FAMILY Kobus is the sixth generation Burger on the Estate and current CEO and winemaker. He and his wife Elizabeth have two daughters and twin boys. Elizabeth
is actively involved in the business and manages the Manor house and venue facilities. In 2004, Kobus had his first harvest at Rietvallei as the winemaker and from then onwards he slowly developed Rietvallei’s portfolio to the wide variety of ranges and wines it has today 4. THE VENUE The farm’s manor house has now been beautifully transformed into the new venue for offices, tastings and functions. The classic, modern-country style house has a warm and comfortable ambiance, which was carefully preserved in the renovation process. Rietvallei invites guests to sit on the spacious porch overlooking the luscious
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Rietvallei | ADVERTORIAL
lawns, the beautiful garden and breathtaking views of the Langeberg mountains while enjoying delicious award-winning wines. 5. TASTINGS All of Rietvallei’s wines are available for tasting and partner perfectly with their delicious cheese platter filled with a combination of fresh, aged, soft and hard cheeses. The farm also offers an exclusive chocolate pairing experience, where six of their Rietvallei classic wines are matched with six Belgian chocolate creations.
6. RIEVALLEI’S WINES Over the years, wines are carefully selected and positioned, slowly building Rietvallei’s portfolio. Today the estate produces four different ranges of wine while collecting various awards and accolades from all over the world.
THE HERITAGE COLLECTION • Rietvallei Estate 2016: A complex blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc. • JMB Cabernet Franc 2016: Intense aromas of blackcurrent and plums backed by the toasty oak flavours. • Estéanna Cab Franc, Cab Sav & Petit Verdot 2016: Expressive cherry and cassis aromas with delicate hints of violets. • Dark Cin (Cinsualt) 2019: Dark, earthy blackberry fruit with hints of chocolate and a spicy freshness. • JMB Chardonnay 2019: A full-bodied, barrel-fermented Chardonnay with rich citrus aromas with spicy, toasted oak notes. • Estéanna Sauvignon Blanc 2020: Fullbodied with aromas of passionfruit, grapefruit, green fig and a touch of capsicum. • 1908 Muscadel 2018 : A fortified Red Muscadel exclusively made from old bush vines planted in 1908. THE CLASSIC COLLECTION • Cabernet Sauvignon 2017: Red and blackberry fruit infused with cherry and cassis and hints of coffee. • Shiraz 2018: An elegant Shiraz with a good mix of spicy toasted oak and berry fruit, pleasant ripe tannins, and a smooth, lingering aftertaste. • Classic Chardonnay 2019: Rich and creamy with a good balance between fruit, oak, and acidity and finishes with a lingering aftertaste.
• Natural Unwooded Chardonnay 2019: An unwooded Chardonnay with flavours of fresh citrus and orange blossom. The palate reveals green apple flavours and is full-bodied with good balancing acidity. • Sauvignon Blanc 2020: Vibrant and zesty with expressive passion fruit and grapefruit, freshly cut grass, and a touch of capsicum. • Chenin Blanc 2020: This is a dry but fruity Chenin Blanc with intense aromas of dried apple, fresh citrus, and a touch of oak spice. • Red Muscadel 2018: A floral, Muscat bouquet comes through on the nose, with typical raisiny sweetness and an intense rich flavour that lingers on the palate.
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT WWW.RIETVALLEI.CO.ZA OR EMAIL INFO@RIETVALLEI.CO.ZA SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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FEATURE | Dry Farming
Is Dry Farming the
FUTURE?
David Biggs raises an admiring glass to the country’s dry farmers
O
ne of the basic requirements of farming—any branch of farming—is to find the best conditions in which to practise your branch of agriculture. Each patch of our planet’s surface has its unique properties in terms of soil type, climate, rainfall, altitude and latitude. The arid Karoo with its low rainfall is ideal for sheep and goat farming because the natural vegetation is mostly tough scrub suitable for sustaining small stock. A “Mediterranean” climate is good for citrus farming. Grass covered, rolling prairie country is best suited for cattle ranching. The Western Cape, with its winter rainfall for growth and its warm ripening summers, has proved ideal for grape growing, and hence for wine production. In today’s world, we hear increasing reports of climate change, global warming and the need for natural and “organic” farming methods. In the past, little thought has been given to the amount of water required to produce the wines we love. There’s always been enough. Times are changing. Despite the Covid-19 pandemic, the Western Cape’s population has grown rapidly in recent years and this has created a huge new demand for domestic water. Add to this the problem of global warming, which is reducing the supply of naturally available water. There could be a crisis looming. In wine-producing areas around the world, the idea of “dry farming” is looking increasingly attractive. This consists, basically, of cutting down on artificial irrigation (drip and spray) and encouraging your vines to send their roots deep into the earth in search of natural moisture. In many Old World wine countries like Italy, Greece and France dry farming has always
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Dry Farming | FEATURE
Search DEEP into the heart of the EARTH to find perfection
been the way things are done. Farmers in California’s Napa Valley have been dry farming since the 1920s. It makes good sense, not only from a conservation point of view but also from a quality angle. With irrigated vines, it takes about 110 litres of water to produce a glass of wine. It is estimated that dry-farmed vines use only about five litres to make that glass-full. Irrigated vines produce large, juicy grapes, whereas dry-farmed vines deliver much smaller berries. The ratio of skin area to the pulp is very different in each style of grape. Much of the flavour a wine—and in red wines all of the colour—is derived from the grape skins. As expected, dry-farmed grapes produce intense flavours and deep colour. This is why many of the world’s best port wines come from unirrigated vines. In South Africa, the best-known dry-farmed wines are probably from the Swartland area, also known as a wheatfarming region. Innovative winemakers like Adi Badenhorst of AA Badenhorst Family Wines have used these intensely flavoured grapes to produce unique and exciting wines like his Grenache, Palomino and his unique Funky White Wine, a blend of no fewer than 11 grape varieties. For those who prefer wines in a lighter style, Adi’s Secateurs range is a friendly collection of drinks consisting of a red blend, a Chenin Blanc and a rosé: lighter, but with that assertive individually that originates deep in the earth.
Malan family, Allesverloren has been producing wines since 1800 and—hardly surprising—has become known for its Portuguese grape varieties like Touriga Nacional, Souzao and Tinta Barocca. The cellar produces several port-style wines as well as a gutsy fortified Red Muscadel (17% alcohol) and unusual rosés from Tinta Barocca. When the first Malan to own the farm bought it in 1872 it was known as a wheat farm but it was the powerful, deep-rooted vines that clinched the sale. Daniel Malan was obviously a man of vision. Less well known, but equally devoted to the concept of minimal intervention, are the Mullineux and Leeu Family wines based in the RiebeekKasteel area. Acknowledging the importance of the soil in which the vines are grown, the family named their wines after the rock formations under the vineyards, so their range includes Granite Syrah, Schist Syrah and Quartz Chenin Blanc. Although not widely available in South Africa the Mullineux and Leeu wines are appreciated by connoisseurs in more than 20 countries worldwide. South Africa’s diverse population results in widely differing wine requirements. There’s a steady demand for cheap, massproduced “generic” wines. Luckily our industry is able to satisfy this demand. But at the top end of the social ladder there are sophisticated, widely travelled connoisseurs who have honed their palates on the finest wines the world can produce. These are the target customers for those winemakers who search deep into the heart of the earth to find perfection. Raise an admiring glass in a toast to the country’s dry farmers.
Another distinctive range of dry-farmed wines, also from the Swartland area, is that from Allesverloren. Owned by the SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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2021/03/01 09:51
RECIPES | TIKTOK TRENDS
life lemons
WHEN YOU
GIVES
Six trendy TikTok recipes to try
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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Dalgona Coff e e with Hon eycomb
TIKTOK TRENDS | RECIPES
Despite having several (more like fourteen, but who’s counting?) unsettling months due to a certain pandemic, this turbulent time has certainly inspired us to get creative in ways we never knew we could. Yup, we’ve taken those sour lemons and turned them into sweet, sweet lemonade.
Flourl es s Peanut Butt er Br ead
Thanks to the huge rise in TikTok, we’ve seen an influx of thousands and thousands of unique and wildly creative food recipes to try at home. (Ahem, for those living under a rock, TikTok is a social media platform used to make a variety of short-form videos that have a duration from 15 seconds to one minute.) Here, we share six of our favourite tried-andtested TikTok inspired recipes for you to try at home. Enjoy! DALGONA COFFEE WITH HONEYCOMB Serves 2
Who doesn’t love a low-carb / banting /keto-friendly recipe? It’s all the fun without the loaded calories and dreaded post-carb coma. A nutty twist on the banana bread Instagram fad, this recipe is simple, moist and oh-so-fluffy.
INGREDIENTS: 500ml semi-skimmed milk 3 tbsp instant espresso powder (instant coffee) 2 tbsp caster sugar 2 tbsp honey 1 pinch ground cinnamon 2 - 3 tbsp dry honeycomb, broken into pieces METHOD: 1. Gently warm the milk in a saucepan set over medium heat; do not boil. 2. Meanwhile, combine the espresso powder, sugar, honey, and cinnamon with 4 tbsp boiling water in a mixing bowl. Whip with an electric mixer until frothy, 2-3 min; if desired, use a milk frother to froth the mixture at the end. 3. Divide the warm milk between two glasses; topped with the frothed coffee mixture and garnish with honeycomb. As in real life, TikTok times are all about the coffee. Plus, tiktokers (Yes, that’s a word now) are also all for cooking crafts and their fun possibilities. Dalgona coffee, also known as whipped coffee, has its roots in South Korea, where the sweet treat was popular in the 70s and 80s. TikTok served to revive this icy coffee classic and now all the cool kids are drinking them.
FLOURLESS PEANUT BUTTER BREAD Serves 12 INGREDIENTS: 375g | 1 ½ cups smooth peanut butter, no added sugar 5 large eggs 1 ½ tbsp white vinegar ¾ tsp bicarbonate of soda 2 tsp granulated sweetener METHOD: 1. Preheat the oven to 180°C (160° fan). Grease and line a 900g loaf tin with parchment paper.
2. Combine all the ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Beat well with an electric mixer until smooth and even. 3. Pour and scrape into the loaf tin; rap on a flat surface to help settle the batter. 4. Bake until risen and dry to the touch, 35-45 min; a toothpick should come out clean from the centre when ready. 5. Remove the tin to a wire rack. Let the bread cool completely before turning out, slicing, and serving.
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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RECIPES | TIKTOK TRENDS
PANCAKE CEREAL WITH BANANA AND HONEY Serves 4 INGREDIENTS: 4 large eggs ½ tsp salt 400ml milk 100ml buttermilk 120g | 1 cup plain flour 2 tsp caster sugar 2 - 3 tbsp unsalted butter, cubed, for frying To serve: 2 bananas, sliced cold milk honey
METHOD: 1. For the pancakes: Combine everything, apart from the butter, in a food processor or blender. Blend on high until a smooth batter forms, scraping down the sides of the processor as needed. 2. Chill the batter for 30 min. 3. After chilling, preheat a non-stick frying pan over medium heat until hot. Add a cube of butter, letting it melt before adding small ladles of batter to the pan, spaced apart. 4. Cook until set and browned underneath, about 1 minute. Carefully flip and cook the other side for 30-45 seconds before sliding out of the pan onto a plate and covering with foil to keep warm. 5. Repeat steps 3 & 4 for the remaining pancakes, keeping them warm under the foil. 6. To serve: When ready to serve, divide the pancakes and banana between bowls; serve with milk and honey.
Pancak e Cer eal
Mini pancakes in a bowl full of milk and eaten like cereal? So crazy, it makes complete sense, don't you think? Whip up this fun recipe, grab your spoon and your oat milk and head to the couch for a serious session of Netflix and chill. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR 2 2
CLOUD BREAD SANDWICH WITH FETA AND ROCKET SALAD Serves 2 INGREDIENTS: For the cloud bread: 4 large eggs, separated 60g | ¼ cup cream cheese, softened 1 pinch salt ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar 15g | ½ cup flat-leaf parsley, chopped cooking spray, olive or coconut oil To assemble: 4 tbsp mayonnaise 375g feta, sliced 2 vine tomatoes, cored and sliced 50g | 2 cups baby spinach 50g | 2 cups rocket METHOD: 1. For the cloud bread: Preheat the oven to 150°C (130° fan). 2. Beat together the eggs yolks and cream cheese in a mixing bowl until smooth. 3. In an oil-free mixing bowl, whip the egg whites with a pinch of salt and the cream of tartar to soft, fluffy peaks. 4. Very carefully fold the egg whites into the egg yolk mixture using a spatula, trying to retain as much air in the mixture as possible. Fold in the chopped parsley. 5. Spray two large baking trays with cooking spray. 6. Spoon four even mounds of the mixture onto the sheets, well-spaced apart. Spread out into half-moon shapes with a damp, off-set spatula. 7. Bake for 35-50 min until the slices are set golden in colour. Remove from the oven and let cool completely on the trays. 8. Once completely cool, transfer to large freezer bags and seal well. Leave to rest overnight. 9. To assemble: Spread the cloud breads with mayonnaise. Top two slices with feta, tomato, baby spinach, rocket, and then close with the remaining two slices, mayonnaise-side facing down, to complete.
TIKTOK TRENDS | RECIPES
POKE BOWL WITH CELERY, BROCCOLINI, GREEN ASPARAGUS AND KIMCHI Serves 4 INGREDIENTS: 250g | 1 ½ cups sushi rice, rinsed in several changes of water, then drained 225g | 2 cups broccoli spears, trimmed 225g | 2 cups asparagus, woody ends removed 2 tbsp seasoned rice vinegar 4 celery stalks, cut into sections 150g | 1 cup mixed cherry tomatoes, halved 25g | 1 cup purple alfalfa sprouts 240g | 1 cup kimchi* 1 tbsp chia seeds 1 tbsp brown flax seeds salt freshly ground black pepper For the kimchi: 1 Chinese cabbage 3 garlic cloves, crushed
2.5cm piece ginger, grated 2 tbsp fish sauce (optional) 2 tbsp sriracha chilli sauce 1 tbsp golden caster sugar 3 tbsp rice vinegar 8 radishes, coarsely grated 2 carrots, cut into matchsticks or coarsely grated 4 spring onions, finely shredded METHOD: 1. For the kimchi: Slice the cabbage into 2.5cm strips. Tip into a bowl, mix with 1 tbsp sea salt, then set aside for 1 hr. 2. Meanwhile, make the kimchi paste by blending the garlic, ginger, fish sauce (if using), chilli sauce, sugar and rice vinegar together in a small bowl. 3. Rinse the cabbage under cold running water, drain and dry thoroughly. Transfer to a large bowl and toss through the paste, along with the
When a recipe for bread goes viral, you know you are living in interesting times. This isolation-inspired bread is made with just three basic ingredients, resulting in heavenly, fluffy, and deliciously airy bread.
Cloud Br ead Sandwich
radishes, carrot and spring onions. 4. Serve straight away or pack into a large jar, seal and leave to ferment at room temperature overnight, then chill. Will keep in the fridge for up to 2 weeks - the flavour will improve the longer it's left. 5. For the poke bowl: Place the drained sushi rice in a saucepan with 550ml water. 6. Bring to the boil over medium heat, cover, and gently simmer over low heat until the rice has absorbed the water, 15-20 min. 7. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool, still covered, for at least 10 min. 8. Meanwhile, place the broccoli and asparagus in a steaming basket. Cover and steam over a half-filled saucepan of simmering water until just tender to the bite, about 3 min. 9. Drain and let cool briefly. Cut the asparagus into thin pieces. 10. Fluff the rice with a fork; sprinkle with the vinegar and season with salt and pepper, stirring to combine. 11. To serve: Divide the rice, steamed vegetables, celery, tomatoes, sprouts, and kimchi between bowls. Sprinkle with chia seeds and flax seeds.
Hot on the tails of the ever-growing vegan/ vegetarian lifestyle choice, this plant-based poke bowl also pays homage to an equally popular craze of including gut-healthy fermented foods in your diet. With the addition of kimchi, a traditional Korean cuisine made with fermented cabbage, this recipe is trending two fold. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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RECIPES | TIKTOK TRENDS
HOMEMADE HAZELNUT SPREAD Makes 1 jar INGREDIENTS: 450g | 3 cups raw hazelnuts 150g caster sugar 250ml water ½ tsp vanilla extract
Hom emad e Haz elnut Spr ead
METHOD: 1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (180° fan). Spread out the hazelnuts in a single layer on a large rimmed baking tray; if needed, divide between two trays. 2. Place in the oven and roast until golden brown, 6-8 min. 3. Remove and transfer to a heavy-based saucepan; add the sugar and water. 4. Bring to a boil over moderate heat and then reduce to a simmer until most of the water has evaporated, 25-35 min. 5. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla. Strain the hazelnuts and transfer to a food processor or blender; reserve the syrup in the pan. 6. Blend the hazelnuts until smooth, loosening with a little of the reserved syrup if needed. 7. Spoon into a sterilised jar. Seal with a lid and submerge in a hot water bath, processing for 10 min. 8. Remove from the water and let cool completely. Chill until ready to use.
Spread onto toast or ready to eat straight out the jar, (anything goes in a pandemic) this Nutella-style spread is all about the comfort food. Toasty hazelnuts are blended into a decadent, creamy spread that’s also vegan.
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2021/03/02 13:51
Panel Report | WINE
Why WINE? In this issue we look at WARM-WEATHER WINES—and they’re not all white BY IRINA VON HOLDT CWM
T
he blonde stretched out lazily and reached for her glass of wine, “Why do I drink this?” she asked and sighed. Now, this may sound obvious and silly, but it is a seriously profound question. Blondes are smart. Why indeed do we choose to drink wine? Why not tea or coffee or water for that matter? Well, we do drink all of those, but when it comes to relaxing or looking around for something to go with that roast chicken, we reach immediately for the wine. It has that intriguing blend of sweet, sour, bitter, umami and sometimes salty flavours that cannot be found in any other drink. It teases the palate, challenges us, makes us think and offers a spread of diverse flavour that will never be found in, say Coke. Not that Coke isn’t interesting, but every bottle tastes the same. When beverages taste the same where is the fun of discovery? Then too, wine is natural, a product of climate and soil, tied forever to that unique piece of land from which it is grown. The final flourish must be the ‘feel-good factor’. Who can ignore that? Here we look at great wines for Summer/ Autumn tippling.
THE UNUSUAL SUSPECTS You’ve been following our tastings and you’ve noticed exciting new names like Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc and Verdelho—and we look forward to tasting the first Assyrtico, originally from Greece, sometime soon. The first three mentioned are basically Rhône whites and are rather different from what we are used to. They have softer acids, but with broader, more weighty flavours. They are less obviously fruity than the wines we’re used to. They taste smoother, fuller and even what one might term as more “grown up”. They have savoury flavours with notes of lavender, dry scrub and sometimes a bit of earthiness. They are excellent food partners being less juicy and fruit pastillelike. So how does our picky panel like them? “When they’re not over-made they’re great. I was glad to see none of these are overoaked,” says Christine. “Glad to see the industry moving on. Ten years ago we never saw Grenache Blanc or Verdelho. It’s good to see them now,” from Clive.
WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL UNUSUAL WHITES WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Lismore Age of Grace Viognier 2017 ALSO LIKED: Idiom Viognier 2016, Mischa Estate Roussanne 2018, Perdeberg The Vineyard Collection Grenache 2017, Simonsig Gewürztraminer 2018 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Aan De Coornu Wynkelder 2018, Delheim Gewürztraminer 2018, Illimis Riesling 2016, Kranskop Viognier 2017, Mellasat Viognier 2017, Paul Cluver Gewürztraminer 2016, Simonsig Grenache Blanc 2016, Simonsig Verdelho 2016, Simonsig Verdelho 2017, Theuniskraal Cape Riesling 2018, Usana Pinot Gris 2017, Val du Charron Pinot Gris 2015, Van Loveren Four Cousins Skinny White 2018, Van Loveren Neil’s Pick Colombar 2018, Van Loveren Pinot Grigio 2018
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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WINE | Panel Report
WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL DRY WHITE BLENDS
“So much more care is given to something new and special, and it shows,” says Irina. “I’m not sure that these should be stand-alone wines though. Perhaps they would be better in blends, as each has something special. It’s a great opportunity for us tasters, though, as we get a rare chance to taste them unblended.” At another tasting the newbies are not so interesting. “I thought all of the Viogniers we tasted came from the same tank,” grumbles Christine. Clive agrees. “Far too little flavour and concentration.” Viognier has been appearing for the last five or six years at our tastings so hardly qualifies as being a new variety, but it still remains something of a rarity. “Remember how overblown these were at the beginning,” says Irina. “I think our winemakers are getting a handle on Viognier now. Today’s batch might be disappointing, but we’ve had some lovely examples.” “Those that show well are full of fruit— grapefruit, quince, pears and winter melons, mainly tropical,” says Clive. “That means properly ripe,” adds Irina. “But,” says Clive, “too many producers are aiming at R60 a bottle and you don’t get anything exciting at that price point.” Now here’s the thing—if you want to be stylish and trendy, drop the Sauvignon (so last year) and order a Viognier or a Roussanne. That should get them talking…
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IS THERE A DRY IN THE HOUSE? Then on to white blends. It’s no secret that this is a stellar category. It inspires us and it’s clear that it’s inspiring the winemakers, too. So much creativity and hard work are going into crafting these rather special wines. Clearly, the boys are enjoying playing with their new toys! Claude sums it up like this. “This is a tasting in two parts: wines with no flavour and then the Rhône styles.” That’s a bit harsh, but those made with Rhône varieties stand out as superior in flavour, concentration, style and persistence. “There is a lot here with Sauvignon in the blend,” says Dave. “They seem to be wondering what they can add to make them better.” “Our message is to make the Sauvignon itself better,” says Christine firmly. There is one special niche for that pesky Sauvignon, however—in a blend with Sémillon, often with oak, but not always. This of course is the classic white blend of Bordeaux, slowly evolved over decades by the Bordelais. They have shown the way and it works. On to those Rhône styles, the varieties mentioned earlier and often blended here with some good Chenin. Unquestionably, they show thoughtful blending, flavour intensity, good structure and, most importantly, beautiful balance. The broad sweep of the mouth-filling Rhônes is counter-balanced by the fresh and lively
WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: DeMorgenzon Maestro White 2016 ALSO LIKED: Allée Bleue Isabeau 2015, Leenders Baviaan White Blend 2018, KWV The Mentors Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2015, Starke Conde Field Blend 2018 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Alvi’s Drift Reserve Chenin Viognier Chardonnay 2017, Boplaas Cape Portuguese White Blend 2018, Cavalli Cremello 2016, Chamonix Reserve White 2016, Flagstone Treaty Tree Reserve White 2017, Glenwood Grand Duc 2016, Hermanuspietersfontein Stertswaai 2016, Kumala Zenith Chenin Blanc Chardonnay 2016, Lemberg Lady White 2015, Lomond SSV 2016, Mensa Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2018, Rietvallei Estéanna White Blend 2017, Saronsberg Earth in Motion 2018, Stofberg Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2018, Waverley Hills Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2018
If you want to be STYLISH AND TRENDY, drop the Sauvignon (so last year) and order a Viognier or a Roussanne
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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Panel Report | WINE
So much more care is given to SOMETHING NEW AND SPECIAL, and it shows Chenin. “Mostly more than half of these blends is either Rousanne or Marsanne, but they’re not all the same, they are all so different,” notes Christine. “They seem to get the most out of each component,” says Winnie. “These are not mixtures, but careful blends.” “Chenin is the star of the show,” says Clive. “It seems to add to a blend.” “Lovely wines, full of flavour, always definite and identifiable,” says Dave. “Not just lekker.” Claude picks up on the food angle. “So many different flavours,” he says. “It makes them go so well with food. I didn’t find that with the single varieties. I’d be happy to have a few of these with my lunch.” He’s probably thinking of the
Panel Report - 2.indd 27
lemony herbal flavours with fish—or olive and dry scrub with tender lamb. He makes a further point though. “Plenty of interest and nice wines, but basically not up to Reserve wine standard.” Winnie disagrees. “Not for me, I found quite a few Reserves—the Rhônes with a dash of Chenin, even the young ones. What we’re seeing are more adventurous blends with the new varieties, and Pinot Gris. Winemakers are experimenting a lot, and that’s a good thing.” So there it is—a dry white blend for everyone, a pleasure for all, while for many it’s the top of the heap category. Irina closes with: “The Rhône varieties are heat resistant and drought resistant. That shows our guys are thinking forward and getting it right, too.” TALKING RED BLENDS—IT’S ALL IN THE MIX We’ve talked about this category a great deal—should any category be a “non” something, non-Bordeaux style for example, or should we simply call it Red Blends? Let us know what you think. We’ve also talked a lot about the quality of red blends and just how creative and inspirational they can be. Some make perfect drinking for summer too, with lighter styles and lower alcohols, and can be lightly chilled for a picnic. There are no formulae and no prescriptions, like for Bordeaux styles, so winemakers are limited only by what they have in the cellar and what they
WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL NON-BORDEAUX BLENDS WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Dornier Cocoa Hill Red 2016 ALSO LIKED: Bosman Family Adama Red 2017, Infinity The First XI The Belter 2016, Jean Daneel Signature Red 2015, Waverley Hills SMV 2013 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Almenkerk Lace Selection 2014, Bersig Icarus Red 2014, Bezuidenhout Leenders Sielverkoper 2017, Bizoe RNW Blend 2017, Boplaas Ring of Rocks 2015, Bushmanspad Red Gold Blend 2017, Cavalli Night Mare 2015, Clos Malverne Heron’s Nest Cabernet Sauvignon Pinotage 2018, Ernie Els Big Easy Red Blend 2017, Frater Shiraz Mourvèdre Grenache 2014, Groote Post The Old Maris Blend 2017, Stellenrust Kleine Rust Pinotage Shiraz 2017, Truter Taste Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Waverley Hills SMV 2014
can dream up. They have shown some exciting blends with mind-blowing components. When viewed on paper many seem bizarre, yet when tasted the pieces often fall into place perfectly. Imagine, for example, Cabernet, Pinotage and Petit Verdot—terrific; or Cab, Shiraz, Petit Verdot, Tinta Barocca, Roobernet and Cab Franc—not so terrific. Broadly speaking, certain styles are taking shape. There are Cab-led or Pinotage-led blends and the now-notso-new Rhône styles that feature Shiraz, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Cinsaut, sometimes with a dash of white Viognier for fragrance. Firstly, let’s get the gripes out of the way. “Too many ordinary wines,” says a disappointed Clive. “Some desperate blends. Adding together leftovers in the cellar just doesn’t constitute a blend,” says Irina.
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WINE | Panel Report
WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL CABERNET SAUVIGNON
“And there are always those with too much tannin,” says Christine. The positives far outweigh the negatives, however. Christine comes back with: “Such good fruit here. Winemakers are trying for drinkability. Smooth and juicy are the right words for these.” “Quite a lot of innovation, and the wines are very drinkable,” from a very satisfiedlooking Claude. “It’s here that they can experiment and come up with something new,” adds Winnie. Greg also chimes in. “Lots of good ideas here,” he says, “and Pinotage is used in such a good way.” Oh yes, our homegrown grape gives such nice rounded generosity to a blend it feels like coming home! And again from Claude: “I scored these highly, I liked the juiciness especially the blends with Pinotage and then the more serious wines here, lovely to drink, too.” Winnie joins in: “Some clever blends with Pinotage, which gives a juicy fruitiness.” Then the Rhône-style blends, all led by Shiraz. Claude points out that even a good Shiraz is lifted by the addition of other varieties, usually Grenache. Christine agrees, saying they add interest and Irina says that Grenache seems better suited to be blended as it hasn’t shown that well as a stand-alone. Christine sums up: “It’s always the Rhône varieties that shine through.” 2 8
A COOL CABERNET Cabernet is arguably the world’s most favourite red–an all-seasons, all-round favourite. If you’re having a fine steak or roast beef it means a trip to the cellar to dig out a good Cab–come winter or summer. Remember though, when the weather is hot you’ll need to chill your Cab down to about 16°C to get the balance the winemaker intended. A tepid red is to be avoided at all costs, the wine becomes volatile and loses fragrance and the balance is of course all wrong. Often ignored in our hot summers, it’s good practice generally to cool down your reds, and the lighter the body the cooler they can go. Clive’s comment about our tasting of this category: “Very average wines, but I found some stunners. When there’s cassis and berries, they’re nice. These are fruit-driven wines.” Greg likes the more classic graphite character. Dave is worried by tannins. “I don’t like tannins on Cab,” he says. “I found some good ones, but was disappointed by a few.” Greg comes on more strongly. “I don’t think Cab should be made into a quaffing style. It should be sipped and served with good food. Turning it into a quaffing wine devalues the style.” At another tasting, Winnie is impressed by the wines’ elegance. “They are all ripe and the balance of ripeness and elegance is very clever. Usually, with ripeness there’s a danger of ‘ripe and blowsy’, but to get a
WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Flagstone Music Room Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ALSO LIKED: Compagnies Wijn Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Diemersfontein Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Dornier Equanimity Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Overhex Survivor Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Boplaas Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, De Wet Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Ernie Els Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Flagstone Poetry Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Glenelly Glass Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Kranskop Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Lanzerac Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Painted Wolf The Den Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Saxenburg Private Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Simonsvlei Premium Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Spier Vintage Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Stellekaya Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Tanagra Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Warwick Uitkyk Carlonet Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Warwick Uitkyk Carlonet Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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Panel Report | WINE
degree of elegance is very smart.” “I had very few low scores,” says Christine. “The wines had very similar profiles, but the tannins are right, no hard tannins and there is a juiciness and some character.” There’s a reason for those softer tannins. “They can’t get new oak barrels,” complains Winnie, referring to the fall of the rand. “Thank goodness for that!” from Christine, ever sensitive to tough tannins, but adds, “that does not mean
When the weather is hot you’ll need to CHILL YOUR CAB DOWN TO ABOUT 16°C to get the balance the winemaker intended these are not for ageing. Those tannins are supple and it’s clever. You can drink these now, or keep them.” Irina raises an interesting point. “I see winemakers are often using that allowable 15% of other varieties to add extra interest to their Cabs. Isn’t that like admitting something is missing in your wine? What I’m missing is real Cab character.”
There’s a chorus of “no’s”— “they’re all so drinkable, easy and delicious.” Irina goes down in flames. “Drinkable isn’t good enough,” she counters. “Water is drinkable. I want my Cab on a pedestal.” More loud “no’s”. So drinkable is good and desirable but not good enough for all. And so it goes.
To purchase these wines and more, head to our website
WWW.WINEOFTHEMONTH.CO.ZA
Linger longer AT BELLEVUE ESTATE
Visit our beautiful wine estate, located on Bottelary Road in Stellenbosch. Enjoy any of our wine pairing options, a pizza and wine pairing or relax on our restaurant’s oversized veranda with a glass of wine while the kids play.
Our restauarant menu caters for everyone’s taste, from delicious gourmet pizzas, to burgers and for those a little more hungry, a tender sirloin steak. Pair with any of our premium Bellevue wines and the perfect day awaits you! Contact us on 021 865 2054 or email restaurant@bellevue.co.za to book
W W W. B E L L E V U E . C O. Z A
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WINE | Connoisseur’s Choice
CONNOISSEUR’S
CHOICE A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY
1. Waverley Hills Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2019 (Price R115) A fresh, easy drinking wine with floral undertones that is well-balanced on the palate with a lingering aftertaste of cut grass and fynbos/garrigue. Drink now. PAIRING: New season’s green asparagus with buttery toasted flaked almonds, a cheese soufflé, or hake baked with tomato and leeks.
2. Chamonix Troika Reserve 2017 (Price R325) Deep ruby mulberry colour on release, with scents that recall vanilla, sweet ripe cherries, blackberries and other spices. The wine is well structured; full, round and smooth on the palate with rich fruit and berry sensations, fine harmony and length of flavour. Cellar for 10-15 years. PAIRING: Slow-roasted pork belly or braised game birds.
3. Walker Bay Barrel Fermented Sauvignon Blanc 2018 (Price R269) Small batch special produced 12-hour skin contact Fumé Blanc which was wild fermented in French oak barrels and matured on the lees for 6 months. The rich and complex wine begins with plenty of tropical, lime and floral notes wrapped up in a very smooth texture. Drink now or cellar for 3-4 years. PAIRING: Rich, creamy or mild curry to spicy dishes.
4. The High Road Director’s Reserve 2016 (Price R469) Rich and lavish in flavour and character with plum, cassis, old leather and dried herb flavours. Plush, generous and opulent with well-managed oak-aging. Smooth and satisfying and will reward further aging for at least 10 years. Cellar for up to 10 years. PAIRING: Beef, lamb, game or poultry.
5. Genevieve Blanc de Blanc 2016 MCC (Price R255) Delicate and generous bubbles with crisp aromatic complexity of citrus blossom and white fruit. Vibrant entry with a delicate concentrated structure. Overall balanced finesse with an appealing acidity offering a long attractive crystalline finish. Drink now. PAIRING: Butternut squash ravioli with brown butter sage, tuna tacos or lime and hazelnut macaroons.
6. Knorhoek MCC 2015 (Price R285) Notes of green apple, white Turkish delight, lime and light biscuit notes upfront. Hints of red cherry/raspberry in the background coming from the Pinot Noir component. The delicate mousse and tiny, persistent bubbles complement the crisp, refreshing acidity and creamy palate. Drink now. PAIRING: Oysters, sushi and parma ham.
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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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Connoisseur’s Choice | WINE
8. Saronsberg Blanc de Blanc 2017 (Price R225) The wine has a translucent colour with a slight green edge and a prominent mousse. Delicate flavours of toasted biscuit, provide a creamy mouthfeel while retaining fresh apple notes. The wine ends with a long, elegant and dry finish. Drink now. PAIRING: Enjoy on its own or with salads or light meats such as fresh pan-seared fish or Asianstyle roast chicken.
7. Bellevue Chardonnay Pinot Noir MCC 2015 (Price R225) This elegant, straw coloured Cap Classique shows notes of freshly picked berries and peaches. On the palate you will enjoy the flavours of freshly baked pie crust displaying beautiful finesse with a fine balance of fruit and acidity. Drink now. PAIRING: Fresh fruit or seafood such as salmon salad.
9. Highlands Road Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (Price R155) Green-tinged platinum straw colour. Slightly herbaceous blackcurrant leaf aromas that fade into hints of fern leaf. The wine is quite textured on the palate, with a more savoury than flinty flavour. Deliciously plump on the finish. Drink now. PAIRING: Smoked meats, fish, poultry, shellfish, oysters and sushi.
Did you know? You can join our Olive Oil Club today and receive the best local olive oils and olive oil products from around South Africa. You can choose how often you would like to receive them and they’ll be delivered to your door. Call: 021 492 4100 | Website: www.wineofthemonth.co.za To purchase these wines and more, head to our website www.wineofthemonth.co.za
THE EYE OF THE BULL Stellekaya’s Merlot 2018 is inspired by the brightest star in the Constellation Taurus—a giant red star called Aldebaran. Aldebaran is known as the “Eye of the Bull” and means “The Follower” in Arabic. This is because it appears to follow the Hyades star cluster that forms the head of the bull. A bold medium-bodied red wine that is deep crimson in colour, Stellekaya’s Merlot 2018 showcases attractive dark berry fruit followed by delicious savoury and earthy notes. This signature Merlot is elegant with juicy soft tannins and has a good acidity present. Serve this wine alongside beef carpaccio, drizzled with homemade mayonnaise, topped with rocket and Parmesan shavings.
WWW.STELLEKAYA.COM
+27 (0) 66 549 6015 • wine@stellekaya.com
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@stellekayawines
@stellekayawineestate
2021/03/02 11:16
The ALCOHOL BAN
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(More wine Please]
I
n terms of human achievement, 2020 was not a great vintage. The dreadful Coronavirus pandemic has shrunk all of our lives. Little acts of human contact, like meeting with a colleague for a drink after work, or joining friends to watch your favourite football team in action on a Saturday afternoon, are no longer a normal part of life. Theatres, restaurants, beaches and pubs have been stolen from our lives. Thousands of workers have lost their jobs, factories and businesses have closed and the future looks, quite frankly, rather scary. Drive along any urban high street and you’ll see a depressing number of shop fronts locked and shuttered. Banks do most of their business online. Agriculture is one sphere of activity that has not been shut down. The forces of nature override the forces of politics and even the fierce force of an evil virus. You can shut down a restaurant and close a beach but you can’t stop the apples ripening on the tree, or the pumpkins ripening in the field. Or the grapes ripening on the vines. That causes a problem for the political leaders of the country. They can ban the sales of alcohol and close the pubs and bottle stores, but they can’t stop the crops ripening on the farms. Thank goodness. Wine grapes are an agricultural crop and when they’re ripe thousands of workers are employed to harvest, process and market them. The wine industry provides work to unskilled labourers, tractor drivers, sorters, press operators, skilled winemakers, package designers, marketers and brand managers.
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Whether you regard wine as a desirable luxury item or a social evil, it does put food on the tables of many families and pays for the education of many thousands of South African children. The state’s handling of the alcohol industry has been typically heavy-handed. Alcohol misuse causes injury and death, so their simplistic solution has been simply to ban alcohol, rather than try to prevent its misuse. Road accidents cause a similar number of injuries and deaths across the country annually, but so far nobody has suggested banning the use of motor vehicles. Instead, we have created a set of traffic rules to make motoring as safe as practically possible. Maybe there are better ways of dealing with the problem of alcohol misuse too.
Illustration by: Chloe Damstra
Are there BETTER WAYS of HANDLING ALCOHOL misuse?
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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Saxenburg Wines | ADVERTORIAL
ADVERTORIAL | Saxenburg
A TASTE OF SAXENBURG
A Taste of
T E RR O I R O
ne of Stellenbosch Wine Routes’ best-kept secrets is the road through the scenic Polkadraai Hills (M12/ Polkadraai Road). It is here you will find a real taste of terroir. Saxenburg is one of the first estates at the start of this beautiful ward. A family winery dedicated to fine wines of consistent quality and a true reflection of its terroir in the Polkadraai Hills. The Bührer’s have been the estate custodians for over three decades and two generations. Undoubtedly, a unique property with magnificent views of Table Mountain and most importantly, its exposure to both False Bay and Table Bay. The cooling ocean breezes, higher vineyard elevations and predominantly granite soil with components of smaller weathered Table Mountain sandstone provides Saxenburg with a diverse ‘terroir’. Leading this estate to the creation of wine of distinction with layers of complexity. The numerous award-winning wines from the area, produced by Saxenburg and its many neighbours, are the living testimony to the excellent terroir of the Polkadraai Hills.
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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Created by nature, crafted with passion and enjoyed by discriminating connoisseurs worldwide. Discover their unique awardwinning wines in the relaxed atmosphere of the tasting room. CHOCOLATE AND BILTONG PAIRINGSSaxenburg’s winemakers have nurtured superb wines, and have paired these with the most delicious chocolate truffles and biltong to enhance your cellar door experience. Saxenburg offer a curated pairing experience with the option of four chocolates or four biltong with red and white wines.
SAXENBURG’S PRIVATE COLLECTION RANGE - WINES OF DISTINCTION AND ELEGANCE A perfect expression of elegance and value, offering a superbly enriching and delightful encounter for wine lovers. Our current favourites include: PRIVATE COLLECTION SAUVIGNON BLANC - This wine shows lovely prominent flavours like granadilla, grapefruit and pears, with hints of capsicum and mineral flavours. It is well-structured on the palate, and the acidity supports the mouthfeel, with a long lingering aftertaste. PRIVATE COLLECTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON - This wine has typical mulberry, cassis and blackberry aromas, with hints of cigar box aromas and is well balanced with red fruit layers present and a lovely fresh and creamy finish. It has a well-structured mid-palate with notes of mocha present on the aftertaste.
EXPERIENCE SAXENBURG
Monday - Sunday from 10h00 - 18h00. Polkadraai Road, Kuils River, Stellenbosch +27 21 903 6113 | info@saxenburg.co.za @SaxenburgWine | #SaxenburgMoments
WWW.SAXENBURG.CO.ZA
