IRINA VON HOLDT REPORTS ON

An ODE to AUTUMN

– A Homage to Keat’s Season of Mellow Fruitfulness

Riper and richer, deeper-toned and generous, autumn is here. We report on wines to match the season.

BY IRINA VON HOLDT CWM

“Damn it! It’s all back to front, wrong way round and just plain wrong!” e old man was indignant, his grey hair unusually long. He was yelling about Covid, about how it’s changed the seasons for us.

He explains: in spring, when we should have been bouncing back a er a lengthy winter, instead we were tightly bound in lockdown.

Now it’s autumn and suddenly we’re bouncing back when we should be calming down. We are so out of step with the season. He’s right of course, but it’s us humans who are upset and confused. Mother

Nature carried on, unfazed by Covid, and autumn is behaving just like it should, and on time, too. As the days shorten, Nature puts on a nal ourish of ripening and richness to dazzle us with a last glorious show before winter. It’s Keats’s season of

“mellow fruitfulness” to charm and nourish us mentally, physically and, most of all, spiritually for winter’s quiet. Fruit trees are heavily laden, crops are being eagerly harvested, fabulous owers bloom and perhaps most important for us wine lovers, the last ripest grapes are wending their way to cellars. To honour autumn we look at four appropriate styles of wine; wines to enjoy and make us think as the mellow golden days shorten.

DO DRY WHITES DO THE TRICK?

Now, here’s a category that makes us sit up and take notice––it’s a work in progress as our talented winemakers play around with an exciting selection of new and old varieties and nd new ways to make them t together. For us it’s great, too, because we can sit and puzzle over what they’ve done. As we slow down a er summer it’s good to actually sit and take notice of what’s in the glass and to think about what’s going on in there.

First, remember what you bought because there’s a big di erence between a cheerful little number for about R50 a bottle that shows two or more varieties on the label, or another at around R100, also made from a couple of varieties, or possibly with a smart name. e cheapie may be charming and fun, but will almost certainly not be wine for contemplation, which is exactly what the more expensive wine will do for you. is will be nicely ripe, almost certainly oaked and carefully blended—the sort of wine to make you think. Two styles for two types of consumer. Nothing wrong with that. at’s exactly what the panel points out.

“So many large-volume producers are climbing on the white blend bandwagon, but with no real substance,” grumbles Clive.

“Why are there so many with Sauvignon Blanc in the blend?” asks Claude plaintively.

“It’s strange, because Sauvignon sells so well,” muses Irina. “I would’ve thought there would be nothing le for blending.”

“I nd the unwooded wines very indi erent,” says Colin, “but the wooded ones are way above average.”

“Mmm, looking at those high-volume blends there is some charm there,” says Irina, “but all those with Colombar tend to

dilute, sometimes even spoil the blends. We need to separate the special blends from those.”

So we talk about the higher quality blends.

Winnie is really excited. “Great blends, lots of playing around especially with the Rhône varieties… and the creativity…” her voice trails o .

But Greg is not quite with her. “I’m not so excited, but I agree about the creativity. We have all these interesting varieties. It’s good to see Grenache Blanc and Roussanne, for example, playing a role.”

Irina adds: “Most of these white blends show that someone has really tried hard, and it’s a funny thing, one can always pick that up.”

Clive, too: “ is is where I’ll shop—masterful blending. I keep nding Reserve selection wines among them, and almost always among the Rhône styles!”

Greg points to a problem. “We struggle to sell these in the restaurant,” he says. “Customers want single variety wines.” He should know. He’s the head sommelier at the very upmarket Twelve Apostles Hotel. So his customers prefer varietal wines and miss out on these stars? What a shame.

Clive has an answer though. “ ey need branding,” he says, “like Buitenblanc or Lyric— those are huge brands.”

Christine joins in, “Most of these blends are made from grapes that are harvested ripe—that’s where the avour comes from.”

But Dave has other ideas. He goes back to the simpler wines. “I like these for fun drinking,” he says, “and not as statement wines. I don’t want to take o my hat AND shoes in homage, just to have a drink!”

IT’S ALL IN THE BLEND

Red Blends is another category where our winemakers are having a good time playing around and experimenting.

Greg puts it oh-so succinctly, “When it works, it works, and Rhônes work.”

And so they should—those Frenchies have had a couple of hundred years start on us. (Rhône styles are almost always led by Shiraz with added varieties such as Cinsaut, Mourvèdre and Grenache, sometimes with a splash of the white variety, Viognier, to add perfume.)

Colin points out: “Shiraz has proved itself over and over again as a good blending partner. All my Reserve scores have gone to those with Shiraz in them.” He’s a fan of Shiraz and there’s a lot of Shiraz!

Clive agrees. “I prefer the Rhône styles,” he says. “I love them.

Irina raises a di erent tissue, “I think the role of Pinotage needs to be explored further. It adds a lovely fruitiness and generosity to the blends, as well as putting a distinctive SA stamp on the wine,

WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL

DRY WHITE BLENDS

WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB:

Allée Bleue Isabeau 2017

ALSO LIKED: Babylonstoren Candide 2020, Boland One Formation White Blend 2020, Retief Reserve Cape Blend White 2019, Villiera White Blend 2020

WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER:

Boland Classic Chenin Sauv Blanc 2020, Cavalli Cremello 2018, Darling Lime Kilns 2018, De Krans Tritonia 2018, Ernst Gous & Co 2020, MAN White Blend 2020, Simonsig Grapesmith Die Kluisenaar 2018, Simonsig Grapesmith Mediterraneo 2019, Stonedance Granite White 2020, Truter Agaat Christina 2018

SWEET WHITE WINES

WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB:

Simonsig Gewürztraminer 2020

ALSO LIKED:

Darling Winemaker’s Selection Bukettraube 2020, Paul Cluver Estate Riesling 2018, Waverley Hills Organic Pinot Grigio 2020, Wellington Imprint Frizzante Blanc NV

WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER:

Balance Natural Sweet White NV, De Krans Premium Moscato Perle 2020, Delheim Gewürztraminer 2019, De Wet Pettilant Fonte NV, De Wetshof Mine d’Or Riesling 2018, De Wetshof Riesling 2017, Hartenberg Occasional Riesling 2017, Nitida Riesling 2020, Simonsig Gewürztraminer 2019, Van Loveren SLH Gewürztraminer 2019

and I like that.”

“Shiraz is supreme,” another quick quote from man-of-few-words, Greg.

“Cab Franc is my favourite,” says Clive. Oops, now he’s forgotten those Rhônes he loves so much.

Christine notes there were very interesting blends, with some added sugars. “ at makes for easier drinking, no bad thing,” she says, and then goes on, “No hard tannins, and that’s the whole point of the blends, isn’t it?”

But it seems we just can’t get away from Shiraz. “I’m such a Shiraz fan,” says Dave, “that when I see it in a blend I expect something nice and warming.”

Winnie sums up: “ is is the category for experimentation. You can try anything. ere are no bars at all.”

It also means us consumers can experiment and nd styles that we like. It may be a Shirazbased blend, or a full-blown Rhône style, or one of the newer Cabernet-led blends, Sauvignon or Franc, blended with anything but another Bordeaux variety.

CALLING ALL CABS

Here’s a variety that needs no introduction— surely everyone’s favourite. It’s not exactly like your best pal; it’s way too serious for that. No, it’s the CEO, the Chairman of the Board when it comes to grapes, something we drink on Special Occasions. It seems to exert a civilising in uence—we behave better, dress better and de nitely cook better when Cab is around!

Cab, and it is Cabernet Sauvignon we’re talking about, will always taste like Cab, but the major challenge is managing tannins because those tiny black grapes are full of it. It’s in their thick skin, the pips and the stalks and it takes a really smart winemaker to deal with it, to judge exactly how much to leave in the wine and how much to take away.

High praise from Colin. “ e wines we’re tasting are of a high standard, and well balanced. I score these very highly. As a category, the wines are well made and there are some real stars.”

Greg becomes positively voluble. “I always have high expectations when I taste Cab,” he says, “but when I nd green tannin I am unhappy. It’s a tannic variety, but there’s no need for harsh tannins.”

Clive echoes this. “A lot of berry avours, which is very nice,” he says, “but why the tough tannins? It spoils a great product.”

Malu makes a good point. “Of all the categories, the Cab one has several wines from each vintage, and 2017 is head and shoulders above the rest. Best by far.”

Winnie suggests an answer. “Lockdown has helped, they have had extra time on the cork.”

Yes, well, the producers will not exactly be happy about that. ey would have preferred to have sold their wines by now, but Covid intervened.

Malu has more to say. “We need Cabs to be expressive and they actually need oak. Why are we seeing unoaked Cabs, it doesn’t make sense.”

Well, um, it’s about money, or the lack of it right now, the industry has taken a severe knock. Claude is there, too: “What’s missing is new oak.” He has mentioned this a couple of times across

WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL

RED BLENDS

WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB:

The High Road Director’s Reserve 2016

ALSO LIKED:

Clos Malverne Cab Merlot 2017, Simonsig Tiara 2016, Stellekaya Orion 2016, Van Loveren Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2018

WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER:

Allée Bleue Cab Merlot 2016, Allée Bleue Cab Merlot 2017, Bellevue Tumara 2018, Cavalli Warlord 2018, Clarington Cab Merlot 2016, DeMorgenzon Maestro Red 2016, Doolhof Theseus 2016, Simonsig Cab Merlot 2019, Simonsig Tiara 2017, The High Road Director’s Reserve 2017, Van Loveren Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2019, Van Loveren Rhino Run Ian Player 2020

several categories. It’s a sign of the times, sadly, but is bound to change soon.

Clive changes tack. “I would love more concentration,” he says, “harvesting 48 bunches per vine is not good. In France it’s six bunches. We need more oak, and much more concentration.”

So why are we looking at red wines right now? Because it’s the right time to make selections and lay in supplies for winter. Find reds you like and buy a couple of cases and let them rest in a cool dark place. You’ll be amazed at the di erence between a well-rested red and another, newly arrived at home a er a hurried trip to the shop, all shaken up. So do the planning and give your wines time to regain their composure and relax and they will reward you well.

TIME FOR SWEETS

It’s amazing how the mood in the tasting room changes when sweet wines are poured. ere are big smiles all round, even a giggle or two. Are we going back to childhood treats, forbidden pleasures? Or are these wines just plain fun? Perhaps it’s all of these, but they certainly enhance the mood, and surely that’s the very purpose of wine? As autumn adds sugar and lusciousness to fruit, it seems right to follow the season’s lead in our imbibing. So pour a muscadel and treat yourself to a big think. A er all, it’s supposed to be a contemplation wine.

Meantime, in the tasting room, we are in for a bad surprise. e wines with only a little sugar disappoint, and badly so.

Christine says, “Wishy-washy wines with a little sugar. Even if you put zz into these they’re still useless.”

And our all-time lover of sweet wines, Dave says, “I was looking forward to this and I’m so disappointed.” He really looks like a kid who has dropped his ice cream. Christine adds another thought: “ e semi-sweets don’t work unless aromatic varieties are used, something like Gewürztraminer.” Good point, we’ve o en been enchanted by semi-sweet Gewürz or Muscat.

Winnie is unhappy too. “Lack of acidity,” she says, “no freshness, or grip.”

“ e trouble is this Late Harvest category,” says Irina. “A basically poor wine gets a dose of sweet reserve (a concentrated sweetening syrup) and that’s that. It remains a poor wine, but now it’s a sweetish poor wine.”

Sadly there are only one or two Special Late Harvests (a high-quality sweet with no added sugar allowed). We all agree that once we’re into the Noble Late Harvests the wines are excellent—they have ripeness, genuine sweetness and botrytis and gather high scores. e forti ed wines, too, the muscadels and hanepoots are delicious and sublimely sweet.

Sweet wines have a problem, though. As a group they have an image problem— they are hopelessly unfashionable except among wine experts who value them highly. So how about setting a new trend at your next dinner party? Instead of pouring another glass of red with dessert (it doesn’t work) why not serve a delicious well-chilled sweetie? Go ahead. Be brave. It will work, for sure, and soon everyone will be smiling. ere may even be a giggle or two.

WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB:

Lovane Isikhati 2017

ALSO LIKED:

Dornier Equanimity Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Dornier Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Laibach Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Napier Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER:

Boland Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2018, Cloof Wines Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, De Wetshof Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Eikendal Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Gustus Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Lovane Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Lovane Isikhati 2018, Napier Lion Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Nitida Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Piekenierskloof Six Hats Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Springfield Estate Whole Berry Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, UniWines Daschbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Vergelegen Premiun Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Vergelegen Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Warwick Blue Lady Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

Find reds you like and BUY A COUPLE OF CASES and let them REST IN A COOL DARK PLACE. You’ll be AMAZED at the DIFFERENCE...

To purchase these wines and more, head to our website WWW.WINEOFTHEMONTH.CO.ZA