9 minute read
WILL TRAVEL FOR OYSTERS
FEATURE | WHITSTABLE
Malu Lambert takes a pre-covid trip to one of Britain’s famous seaside towns
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Aburnt orange, candy-cane sky above, a whorl of slate blues and bobbing boats below. You’ll be forgiven for thinking you’ve stepped into a Turner seascape when visiting the town of Whitstable, along the north coast of Kent in England. In fact, the artist loved to paint the town’s spectacular sunsets. Whitstable is approximately two hours travel by train from London, and the close proximity to the capital is attracting visitors to its long pebble beaches, bustling harbour and quirky shops. e town is most famous for its native oyster (Britain’s only one), the origins of which can be traced back to Roman times; complete with gold coins being found in the ancient oyster beds. Interestingly, the saying ‘only eat
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It’s also famous for the world’s rst-ever rail passenger service, which opened in 1830, locals called it the Crab and Winkle Line. In modernday Whitstable, the shell sh industry is still its main engine of commerce, generations pass cockling and winkling skills down to the next. But these days Whitstable has a renewed energy, with restaurants aplenty and a thriving art scene. Proving that Britain’s seaside towns are becoming popular once again with its citizens. On a pre-covid trip to London, it was an easy decision to hop on a train for a weekend of Britain’s freshest seafood, and to pay my respects to the 2000-year-old Whitstable oyster; it was just a pity the Crab and Winkle wasn’t running anymore.
WHERE TO STAY
ere isn’t a huge amount of accommodation to choose from, with only two formal hotels on o er, along with a number of B&Bs and self-catering options. Devotees to crustacea should stay at the Hotel Continental. It’s owned by e Whitstable Oyster Company, so be prepared for ample oyster-feasting in the hotel’s bistro. Situated on the seafront overlooking the ames Estuary, this classic British seaside hotel o ers contemporary beach-styled rooms. It’s also conveniently situated to walk to all Whitstable has to o er. And… an extension of the hotel are the nearby ‘Fisherman’s Huts’—dating back 150-years, the historic huts were formally sherman stores, which have been converted to light and bright accommodation on the seafront. www.hotelcontinental.co.uk
WHAT TO SEE
Take a stroll along the pebble beach and inhale the briny air. en, go soak up the retro harbour ambience with its giant plastic sh and lobster claw gurines, complete with ashing neon signs. Oysters are everywhere; from piles of shucked shells to vendors hawking their wares for a pound apiece. Grab a dozen—with some whelks and cockles while you’re at it—and watch the bugeyes (oyster boats) moving in and out of the bay. • Shops, head to the quaint town centre for a plethora of independent retailers, from charming toy stores to vintage clothing, cheeseries, co ee nooks and so much more. • Th e Neptune, ‘ e Neppy’ as it’s a ectionately known, dates all the way back to the early 19th century. e pub, located directly on the beach, is the perfect place to rest your feet and to witness those Turner sunsets. www.thepubonthebeach.co.uk • Whitstable Castle and Gardens, dating back to the 1700s, enjoy a spot of tea at the castle overlooking the ornamental gardens. • Th e Fishslab Gallery, which was founded by local artists to showcase their own and other artists’ work, is housed in what used to be the local shmongers on the high street. www. shslabgallery.co.uk
WHERE TO EAT
• Wests Whelks, family-run for generations, the Wests are one of the iconic shell sh families of the region. Pull up a plastic chair and gorge on oysters, whelks, cockles and more with the wind whipping through your hair. It’s simple, rustic, and just perfect. Whitstable Harbour, West Quay. • Wheelers Oyster Bar, the oldest and smallest restaurant in town. With its iconic—and very Instagrammable—pink façade it was rst established in 1856 by Captain Richard ‘Leggy’. It’s split up into the Oyster Parlour and the Seafood Bar. It’s extremely popular, guests are advised to book up to three months in advance. Oysters are the specialty, of course, done in a myriad of ways with an entire menu devoted to them. I sat at the seafood counter ogling the wares, and a er a starter of native oysters, I moved onto their other cult favourite, the lobster lasagna, served with a leek and white crab ragout and trumpet mushrooms—pure crustacean-loving heaven.
Tip, they don’t have a liquor license, pop into ‘ e O y’ across the road to bring a libation along, they have a fantastic and extensive selection. www.wheelersoysterbar.com • Th e Sportsman, this Michelin-starred restaurant is widely acknowledged as one of the best gastro pubs in the UK. Chef-patron Stephen Harris jokingly refers to it as a ‘grotty boozer by the sea’, but it is anything but. www.thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk
WHITSTABLE | FEATURE
‘Wheelers Oyster Bar, the oldest and smallest restaurant in town. With its iconic—and very Instagrammable—pink façade it was rst established in 1856 by Captain Richard ‘Leggy’.’
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR 17
feature | whitstable
What to drink
• Whitstable Brewer Oyster Stout, you can find it all over Whitstable, along with their other beers. It’s the ultimate, and historic accompaniment to a plate of native oysters. www.whitstablebrewery.co.uk • Barnsole Vineyard’s Dry
Bacchanalian 2018, I picked up a bottle at ‘The Offy’ just before dinner at Wheelers. Made from 100% Bacchus—it’s the taste of Kent itself. An aromatic white wine, all elderflower and hedgerow. The Offy, 5
High St, Whitstable • Chartham Vineyard Blanc de Blancs 2017, on the way to Whitstable I popped in at this English winery making fabulous fizz at Burnt House
Farm near Canterbury, it’s worth a stop on your way in.
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sOUTH AFRICAN CONNOI ss EUR
hoW to Move
One of the many wonderful things about this coastal hamlet is that everything worth seeing—from the harbour to the town, the beach, restaurants and the castle—are all within walking distance. You can however, also order a taxi service.
What to do
The Whitstable Oyster Festival: See Whitstable in all its oyster-loving glory. The annual festival takes place every summer and is a celebration of their mollusc heritage. Along with plenty of oysters and live music, enjoy meals amongst the oyster beds hosted by local wineries; the magnificent Oyster Parade, featuring spectacular costumes and floats, to traditional activities such as building ‘grotters’, domes made out of oyster shells, a most magical sight when they are lit up at night on the beach. www.whitstableoysterfestival.co.uk
hoW to get there
From London: Travel by rail from London St Pancras via Chatham.
Wine and oyster Pairings
Suddenly in the mood for oysters? We’ve picked six of our favourite local wines to enjoy them with:
• Doran Grenache Blanc 2018: The aromas on this wine burst with green fruit and citrus notes including Asian pear, green apple, lime zest, and white peach. • Stark-Conde Round Mountain Sauv
Blanc 2019: The nose is a complex mix of tropical fruits, lime and fynbos notes. The palate is complex and rich with a finely textured finish. • David Finlayson Chardonnay 2020:
Dry and full-bodied, mouth-filling with fleshy ripe fruit and creamy texture, lovely smooth acidity and spicy oak for the finish. • Slanghoek Legends BF Chenin Blanc 2017: Charming and elegant, with a jasmine delicacy on classy fresh orchard fruits, purposeful, well integrated and exceedingly long with deftly handled oak. • B Vintners Haarlem 2019: The nose shows red and black cherries, plums, a little earthiness, cinnamon and other spice. The palate is relatively round and smooth textured. • Longridge Brut NV: A lingering and vibrant mousse brings to the surface flavours and aromas of lime leaf, brioche, and roasted almonds, with hints caramelized green apple, citrus and ripe strawberry.
To buy these wines (and more) visit www.wineofthemonth.co.za or contact our customer service agent at 021 492 4092.
‘ e best things in life are always accomplished by looking deeper’
IS THAT
How a small-batch winery is doing BIG THINGSTHUNDER?
THOR Vintners & Co invites you to step into their world—a bespoke winery nestled in the heart of beautiful Swartland. Here, the tight-knit team focuses on small-batch artisanal wines inspired by ultra-premium Rhône blends. eir vision is to specialize in Swartland grapes and create rare and iconic blends for everyone to enjoy.
As a young boy, Emile Gentis loved to collect superhero stickers. While happily swapping the likes of Spiderman and e Hulk with his friends, Emile’s most coveted sticker was always or. Finally, a er years of perseverance, his tenacity paid o and or joined his beloved sticker collection. Emile always carried this same lesson into adulthood. “ e best things in life are always accomplished by looking deeper, trying harder and remaining persistent in achieving your dream. My or motto led me to winemaking and becoming an artisan blender. And, I never stop until I have reached the ideal balance I am a er,” says Emile.
Emile is married to Marlize and they have two beautiful daughters/winemakers-tobe. “I grew up in the vineyards beside my dad – tasting grapes, learning about the vines and taking the grape sugars before each harvest. Today I get to do that with my daughters and even slip away for some hide and go seek in between the Swartland vineyards.”
“Growing up is inevitable. But keeping that inner child alive who stirs the rebel inside of you, constantly pushing the boundaries, remains the muse who guides your dreams and reminds you that daring to be di erent will always lead to something greater,” says Emile. And, so his journey continues at THOR Vintners & Co, where Emile and the team cra small-batch artisanal wines with superhero stature.
For more information about THOR Vintners & Co and their range of wines, spirits, and non-alcoholic gins visit WWW.THORVINTNERS.COM
e THOR Vintners & Co Range Includes: AGE OF THE REBEL RANGE:
A series of wines dedicated to wine regions outside the Swartland boundaries and focusing on regional wine style expressions.
GENTIS SIGNATURE FAMILY RANGE:
Speci cally cra ed to tell their story, Gentis Signature Family Range comprises of three blends made from bush vines that celebrate the Swartland terroir.
BADLANDS RANGE: Honouring its terroir, the wine starts with minimal intervention, receiving extended cold-soaking on the skins to extract quintessential Swartland avours and aroma.
ORIGIIN NON-ALCOHOLIC GIN: Origiin is a 100% wood- red hydro distilled juniper botanical spirit, or non-alcoholic gin cra ed in the countryside of the Overberg Region in South Africa. SOUTHBOUND CAPENSIS CLASSIC: A South African cra gin inspired by the rich biodiversity found at the southernmost tip of Africa - the quaint coastal town of Cape L’Agulhas.
