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IRINA VON HOLDT REPORTS ON
wine | Panel Report
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Panel Report | wineSpring All Over is Busting Out
With winter’s chill behind us, we Welcome a glorious neW spring bursting with promise and lush green growth.
by IrIna von Holdt CWM
Hooray! It’s spring and the winter of our discontent is behind us. First some shy snowdrops, then a few pale shoots and now great explosions of green, everything sprouting and leafing, one can almost hear the busy growing. Spring has inspired poets from Chaucer to Ogden Nash and even Broadway with the all-American “Spring is bustin’ out all o-o-ver!” Among the serious poets, my favourite, Gerald Manley Hopkins: “What is all this juice and all this joy?”
A nice little hint of wine there and let’s face it, much more charm than “the spring has sprung, the grass is riz”!
But back to wine, without doubt, the most beautiful of all the new season’s greens must be the tender, almost translucent green of delicate, young vine leaves gently unfolding. It’s the beginning of the wine year with all of its lush bounty. We thirsty humans turn our thoughts, naturally, to what to pour into our glass, something that will catch the new mood.
A New SeASoN of CheNiN BlANCS
What could be more full of life, so fresh and bouncy, than our best friend, Chenin? We all know Chenin has an identity crisis–it can be fresh and juicy, or impressively oaked and serious, or luscious and sweet. To match the new season, we need fresh new wines. So what does the panel think?
“Love Chenin, but these were all so similar, and so similar in flavour, too,” says Christine.
“Like they’ve all come out of the same tank,” adds Irina.
Clive says, “When they have good primary fruit, and not just acid, I give them a good score.”
Claude finds a positive, though. “There are some good low-alcohol wines here,” he says.
We then talk about sugar, a hot subject these days with sugar appearing more and more frequently, now even in red wine. Thank you, Australia.
Malu goes first. “We should not be afraid of sugar in these,” she says. “In the end it’s all about balance.”
“Um-mm, yes, sugar can add another dimension,” muses Winnie.
“Very much so. For a long time, I’ve thought that these two great wines of cool northern Europe, Chenin and Riesling, show far better with some sugar,” says Irina, “but, of course, the balance must be right.”
We agree also that there is a general lack of varietal character in many of the Chenins, but we believe, too, that the 2020s are actually victims of lockdown when work had to stop at a critical time.
In among a lot of sameness, there are some gems, however.
Next, we consider the oaked versions. Here there is a lot of disappointment.
To a greater or lesser extent, we all agree. Whereas the oaked wines have been stellar in the past, now they look a bit pale by comparison, the oaking tentative and often barely there. Another grumble is using oak like an add-on for low alcohol wines. In order to respond to oak and absorb some flavour you really need to start with a more robust wine, something with concentration and more ripeness.
“When I came to tasting the oaked wines I barely raised my scores,” Irina says. “But then I was expecting a lot.”
Gregory sums up the tasting: “These are dry whites masquerading as Chenin.”
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wine | Panel Report
This is a category where a good winemaker can show his or her creativity
ImpressIve Dry WhIte BlenDs
Now we’re into the real dry white blends. No masquerading here. For a start this still seems to be a highly experimental category and, as such, there are highs and lows. The winemakers on top of their game have mastered it whereas some are languishing. It’s the story of fast runners and slower runners and our scores mirror their efforts.
A small-ish sub-category is Sauvignon Blanc/Sémillon, which almost always impresses. No surprises here because it’s taken more than a hundred years to put this together in the Bordeaux region of France where it originated. Now who could possibly argue with the French? Sometimes their ideas don’t match local conditions, but here it does. Sometimes a richer, riper Sauvignon with a steely, feisty Sémillon, or the other way around, it doesn’t matter, just works. Those from cooler areas work still better.
The rest of the wines in this category are deeply interesting—because of all that busy experimentation. Some winemakers have great toys to play with, too, like Roussanne, Verdelho, Marsanne and Grenache Blanc, all warm-climate or Mediterranean varieties. They are less obviously fruity and don’t really have that “crunch factor,” instead they are fuller and smoother with lower acid levels, all rounded curves and unruffled feathers, yet without sacrificing flavour—great for a grape-growing climate that is getting warmer.
Let’s start with the highs.
“I have the feeling that the winemakers are excited by these,” says Malu. “I can feel the energy in the wines.”
Winnie agrees: “Great variety of blends, great interest—Rhônes, Sauvignon all over. Loved them.”
But then a more measured opinion from Greg. “Great diversity,” he says, “but I think we can still do so much better.”
Malu is still on her original tack. “So full of life and interest, even intriguing.”
“Well, this is a category where good winemakers can show their creativity,” says a matter-of-fact Claude.
We notice, too, that Chardonnay is seldom used. It seems to be regarded as a stand-alone variety, adding little to a blend. Or maybe it’s too valuable to blend away?
Then the lows.
“Maybe the winemaker didn’t know what to do with them, but had to use them anyhow,” ventures Claude, ever helpful.
Colin is not impressed. “Dry White Blends is my best category of all, but some of these let me down horribly. Hot and cold.”
This category clearly shows a work in progress. If ever you feel intimidated by
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Wines TasTed by The Panel
Chenin BlanC
Wine-of-the-Month
CluB: Avondale Anima 2016 also liked: Allée Bleue Chenin Blanc 2019, Cape of Good Hope Riebeeksrivier Chenin Blanc 2018, Rhebokskloof Chenin Blanc 2019, Rietvallei Chenin Blanc 2019
Wines listed in alphaBetiCal order:
Ann De Doorns Vintage Chenin Blanc 2019, Ayama Chenin Blanc 2019, Bruce Jack Boer Maak ‘n Plan 2018, Cape of Good Hope Riebeeksrivier Chenin Blanc 2017, De Wet Chenin Blanc 2019, Dunstone Chenin Blanc 2019, Lyngrove Collection Chenin Blanc 2019, Meerendal Chenin Blanc 2019, Olsen Chenin Blanc 2019, Perdeberg Vineyar Col. Chenin Blanc 2019, Riebeek Cellars Chenin Blanc 2019, Survivor Chenin Blanc 2018, Stellenbosch Die Laan 2018, Villiera Chenin Blanc 2019
dry White Blends
Wine-of-the-Month
CluB: Simonsig Die Kluisenaar 2016 also liked: Boplaas Cape Portuguese White 2019, DeMorgenzon Maestro White 2017, Thelema Mountain White 2016, Van Loveren Retief Reserve Cape White Blend 2018
Wines listed in alphaBetiCal order:
African Pride Forager White 2019, Bergsig Icarus White 2016, Bergsig Icarus White 2017, Blue Crane First Flight 2018, Boland One Formation Blend 2019, Christoffel Hazenwinkel White Blend 2018, Fable Mountain Raptor Post White 2018, Jakkalsvlei River Cuvee 2019, Lynx Vno Blanco 2018, Sijn White 2017, Simonsig Mediterraneo 2017, Truter Family Agaat Christina 2018, Tulbagh CCM 2019, Waverley Hills Sauv Blanc Semillon 2019, Zandvliet My Best Friend 2019
the category it’s good to go with our panel selections. We’ve done the work for you and sorted out the best.
Ugh, merLot
A collective groan goes up when the panel sees Merlot on the tasting programme. We’ve been subjected to mouth-puckering tannins and joyless wines too many times. We know and we are scared. Some taste the category first to get it out of the way; others leave it to last so that it doesn’t tan their palates to leather. It’s good, though, when we get positive feedback.
At another tasting, it’s back to square one.
“How low can you go?” asks a plaintive Malu.
But ever-cheerful Dave puts in a good word: “Not as bad as usual.”
Malu has a re-think. “Some fresh and fruity, more modern redcurrant flavours,” she concedes, “but no fleshy, full-bodied wines.”
At yet another sitting (we’re really trying here!) it gets positively rosy.
“Yeah, Cab Franc has the ability to hide some of the less attractive characteristics of Merlot,” says Clive, “but I’m still not impressed.”
Colin is unyielding. “It’s the bitterness that gets me. Those hard tannins. They put a big question mark over this category. But hold on. At a braai, with good company, who really notices? And, frankly, when Merlot has some years of age behind it those tannins seem to mellow a bit.”
Even Greg mellows a bit. “I found some good wines, considering they are often not good.”
So here’s another big question mark—are the tannins getting softer, or is the panel?
Some LovabLe bordeaux StyLe bLendS
Spring weather is changeable so there will be enough cold days to send us hunting for good reds again, and what better style than that of Bordeaux? Not as sumptuous as a Shiraz or as firm as Big Boss Cab, but something subtle with both weight and style? Think no further than a good Bdx. The panellists are right behind you, because we LOVE them.
We taste some oldies, even as far back as 2009, which is a treat, and find none over the hill. “I love the older vintages, there’s tannin there, but hardly discernible, and the majority are so well made,” says Christine.
“They are amongst my highest scores,” says conservative Claude.
“They’ve held together so well and I see quite a few with around 3g (per litre) sugar, again it’s
Panel Report | wine
Wines TasTed by The Panel
Bordeaux Blends
Wine-of-the-Month
CluB: Dornier Donatus Red 2017 also liked: Dornier Cab Merlot 2016, Hidden Valley Hidden Gems 2016, Hoopenburg Interger Blend 2017, Louisvale Dominique 2017
Wines listed in alphaBetiCal order:
De Grendel Rubaiyat 2015, High Constantia Sebastiaan 2007, Hillcrest Atlantic Slopes Hornfels 2015, Idiom Cab/Merlot/Cab Franc/PV/Malbex 2017, Idiom Mer/Cab/Cab Fran/PV/Mal 2016, Jacques Germanier Cab Merlot 2018, Journey’s End Pastor’s Blend 2018, Knorhoek Pantere 2014, Marklew Reserve 2017, Meerlust Rubicon 2016, Niel Ellis Cab Merlot 2018, Simonsig Tiara 2016, Stellekaya Orion 2014, Vilafonte Seriously Old Dirt 2017, Waverley Hills De Huijsbosch 2017
Merlot
Wine-of-the-Month
CluB: Anthonij Rupert Merlot 2014 also liked: Anura Legato 2017, Maastricht Merlot 2017, Marklew Merlot 2016, Rainbow’s End Merlot 2017
Wines listed in alphaBetiCal order:
Bader&Walters Merlot 2018, Diggers Home Merlot 2018, Duke Of Wellington Merlot 2019, Ernst Gouws Merlot 2017, Fish Hoek Merlot 2018, Flagstone Poetry Merlot 2019, Glenelly Glass Col. Merlot 2017, Haut Espoir Merlot 2015, Landskroon Merlot 2018, Landskroon Paul De Villiers Merlot 2018, Sarah’s Creek Merlot 2018, Spier Signature Merlot 2018, Stellekaya Merlot 2018, Stellenbosch Reserve Merlot 2018, Villiera Merlot 2017
WINE | Panel Report
all about balance,” says Clive.
“Yes, I prefer sugars to be 3g, or at the very most 3,5g, then it works,” says Clive.
It remains a key point in the world of wine that in order for a wine to be regarded as a ne wine it must be able to age with distinction. ese certainly do. ey have been put together with thought, sensitivity and considerable care, and it shows. Blending is an art not always mastered; it aims to minimise or ameliorate faults and boost good features. Its ultimate aim is to provide a balance as near as perfect. ese older wines o en do. But what of the younger wines?
Claude is quick o the mark. “I thought they’re such good blends, with no green tannins, and it made me think there are di erent kinds of bitterness. e younger wines will be good for ageing. ey have a great future.”
“I loved them,” says Colin. “ ey’re terri c, and I especially loved those with Cab Franc in the blend. I say cut down your Merlot vines and gra Cab Franc on the rootstocks.”
Greg echoes this. “Cab Sauvignon is the dominant component. I would like to see Cab Franc dominant.”
“I like the oak,” says Christine. “But only when it is done with care and elegance.”
So there we have it, a long list of likes— older wines, elegant wines, oaky wines, interesting blends, but above all, balanced wines. Once again, we have to look to the French, this time for their red blends, cleverly put together to re ect their terroir and vineyards, which in turn is cleverly put together to insure against disasters that may a ect any one variety. While being superbly practical they have created an iconic style that is copied around the world.
Here our conditions are rather more di erent, and the rules for blending are less prescriptive, but in the end the basic Bordeaux formula is followed. e result is in the glass.di erent and the rules for blending less prescriptive, but in the end the basic formula of Bordeaux varieties is followed. e result is in the glass and we LOVE it!
Remember too, there is only one Spring each year so go out and enjoy every special day of it!
To purchase these wines and more, head to our website WWW.WINEOFTHEMONTH.CO.ZA
WINE TASTING • CHEESE PLATTERS • CHOCOLATE & WINE PAIRING • FUNCTIONS
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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR A TRIP TO RIETVALLEI
Below, you’ll find just a taste of what you can expect when visiting the family-owned estate. WINE TASTING: Over the years wines have been carefully selected and positioned, slowly building their portfolio. Today, the farm produces four different wine ranges and collects various awards and accolades from all over the world. All of Rietvallei’s wines are available for tasting. CHEESE TASTING: Enjoy a delicious cheese platter that’s filled with a combination of fresh, aged, soft and hard cheeses. Along with the selection of cheeses, you’ll also find fresh fruit, cold meats, biscuits and jams too. Of course, these platters complement the farm’s wine selection. CHOCOLATE PAIRING: A real decadent treat, Rietvallei’s exclusive Belgian chocolate pairing experience is a must-try. Here, the farm has expertly paired six of their Rietvallei’s classic wines with six Belgian chocolate creations. Date night, anyone?
RIETVALLEI.CO.ZA
ROUTE 62, ROBERTSON, SOUTH AFRICA TEL: +27 (0)23 626 3596 | EMAIL: INFO@RIETVALLEI.CO.ZA
