Winepress - August 2019

THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF WINE MARLBOROUGH

ISSUE NO. 296 / AUGUST 2019

RESEARCH CENTRE

WINE SHOW

Photo: Jim Tannock

wine-marlborough.co.nz

VINEYARD BEACHMARKING

FAULT LAKE

14

this issue...

REGULARS

3 4 6 20 22 24 26 28

Editorial

FEATURES

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From the Board - Tom Trolove Tasman Crop Met Report - Rob Agnew Forgotten Corners - Fault Lake Generation Y-ine - Amanda Crop

Vineyard Benchmarking The profitability of Marlborough’s wine industry has taken another hit, down 13% on last year and 31% on the five-year average. The decline in profitability is largely due to a 10% increase in working expenses over the past year.

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18 Organic Conference

Biosecurity Watch - Sophie Badland Industry News Wine Happenings

Cover: Winter is a beautiful time of year at Loveblock Farm in the Awatere Valley.

Photo by Jim Tannock

26

There was plenty of food for thought at the Organic and Biodynamic Winegrowing Conference in Marlborough, including from Joanna Glover on grabbing attention in a crowded marketing space, and from Richard Lees on the growing appetite for organic products.

20 Fault Lake

The Wairau Plains has lost nearly all of its wetlands to development, which makes the protection and restoration of remnants like Delegat’s Fault Lake all the more precious.

“These are some of the most complex ecosystems we have,” says Robert Fryer of FuturEcology.

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Winepress August 2019 / 1

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Marlborough Grape Growers Cooperative Independent Director Organisation & Details The Marlborough Grape Growers Cooperative is owned by 77 Marlborough grape growers and is focused on making quality bespoke Sauvignon Blanc for sale into various offshore markets. The business is registered as a Cooperative and firmly adheres to Cooperative principles. The business started in 2013 and now after 6 years we are looking to replace an original Independent Director to help drive the business forward.

Particular Skills/Competencies Sought The ideal candidate will add to the strong diverse skill set of the current Board, and demonstrate strategic leadership and governance, strong commercial acumen, independent and innovative thinking.

The specific skills we are looking for include: • Governance experience in primary production and/or food & beverage industries • A customer and marketing focus with a good understanding of brand development and brand equity • An innovative thinker who recognises industry trends & market opportunities • Superior communication, networking and stakeholder engagement skills • A broad understanding of risk management and its application to business using best practice tools • A general understanding of Cooperative principles is preferable but not essential • A general understanding of local and central Government impact on our business and the political context of relevant situations.

The successful applicant will have the necessary personal skills and preferably governance and/or senior management experience. Proximity to the Marlborough region is an advantage, but not essential.

Commitment Required: 9-10 meetings/year. Audio/video linking may be considered for some of these.

Applications close: Wednesday 23 July 2019.

Website: mggcoop.co.nz Remuneration: To be advised For further details or to apply please contact the Chairperson: Dave Smith; email: mlsmith@xtra.co.nz; phone: 021 544 698

General Manager: Marcus Pickens 03 577 9299 marcus@wine-marlborough.co.nz Editor: Sophie Preece 027 308 4455 sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz Advertising: Harriet Wadworth 03 577 9299 harriet@wine-marlborough.co.nz Wine Marlborough Board: Ben Ensor ben.lisa@clear.net.nz Callum Linklater callum@csviticulture.co.nz Jack Glover jack.glover@accolade-wines.co.nz Nick Entwistle nick@wairauriverwines.com Simon Bishell simon@caythorpe.nz Stuart Dudley (Deputy Chair) stuartd@villamaria.co.nz Tom Trolove (Chair) tom.trolove@framingham.co.nz Tracy Johnston Tracy@dayvinleigh.co.nz Jamie Marfell Jamie.Marfell@pernod-ricard.com Beth Forrest Beth@forrest.co.nz

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Disclaimer: The views and articles that are expressed and appear in Winepress are entirely those of contributors and in no way reflect the policy of the Marlborough Winegrowers. Any advice given, implied or suggested should be considered on its merits, and no responsibility can be taken for problems arising from the use of such information.

From the Editor Calculating the contribution of wine industry donations on community coffers is a tricky business in Marlborough. The big ticket items are easier to measure, with the likes of the Yealands Classic Fighters Airshow, Saint Clair Vineyard Half Marathon, Forrest Estate Graperide, Allan Scott Women’s Golf Tournament, Rapaura Springs Garden Marlborough, and Marlborough Wine & Food Festival bringing thousands of people to the region. They have a massive impact on everyone, from hospitality and tourism providers to retailers and petrol stations, and help put Marlborough on the map.

There are the environmental causes, with wine companies restoring wetlands (Fault Lake pg 20), supporting wildlife sanctuaries and helping protect native falcons, for example. There are social causes, such as Lion’s major support for the Graeme Dingle Foundation’s work in schools, and the arts, like Wairau River Wine’s support of the Blenheim Musical Theatre.

But in the background, less visible, are the hundreds of donations of wine and resources to not-for-profits in the region, making all the difference to fundraisers. Cloudy Bay’s communications manager Kat Mason says the company donated to 24 different causes last year, 19 of which were local. Three schools and two other local causes were also able to auction off a night for a group at The Shack, Cloudy Bay’s extraordinary vineyard accommodation, making thousands of dollars for each. Kat says corporate social responsibility is a “huge focus” for the company at the moment, “and going forward we are working with our staff to look at projects that are dear to them that will benefit the community”.

Springlands School Board of Trustees chair Pete Coldwell says the wine industry generates “significant income” for the school, enabling it to invest in assets not funded by the Ministry of Education, including class iPads and a playground. Vineyard accommodation, restaurant vouchers and bottles of wine are hot property in the Springlands School Gala silent auction, which makes more than any other stall and also attracts people who will go on to spend throughout the gala. Beyond that event, wine and other local industries are often happy to help during the year, and this month Saint Clair Family Estate is assisting in an annual ski trip, “with the aim of ensuring more kids get a chance to go and have a day on the snow”. Pete notes that other regions will do exactly the same thing with their own major industries, but Marlborough schools are “hugely lucky” to have the wine industry to go to, generally tapping into networks of parents linked to specific companies.

Lion’s Geoff Matthews, who is on the board of the Marlborough Graeme Dingle Foundation, says long term financial success can only be achieved by generating ongoing societal value. “It means operating in a transparent and responsible way so we can create value for Lion, our partners and the communities we operate in.”

The industry’s community contribution is always on my mind in the wake of the Marlborough Book Festival, which I am involved in. The festival has five winery sponsors that help set the tone for the event. They give us everything we need in terms of author accommodation, venues, wine, and charming hospitality, and ask for nothing in return, happy to simply support an event they value. Every year it blows me away, and makes me proud of an industry that sees its role as much more than just viticulture and winemaking.

SOPHIE PREECE

Winepress August 2019 / 3

From the Board TOM TROLOVE

THE MARLBOROUGH Wine Show is about more than medals and trophies, although those accolades play a key role in enhancing our region’s global reputation. It is also about enhancing culture, community and camaraderie, by building a tighter network within our industry.

In the early days that was pretty easy, with an emerging wine industry where everyone knew everyone else, and conversations over the vineyard fence might yield the answer to a disease problem, the lend of a piece of machinery, or the resolution to promote research on an issue that affected the industry at large.

Those vital conversations still happen, although the fence is more metaphoric these days. It can be found in organised events, like the Pinot Workshops, where colleagues assess each other’s wines and share their knowledge for the good of the group.

They’re found when people share their learnings about issues like climate change, helping find mitigations that would be far harder to grasp if we were all working in isolation.

I believe regional camaraderie is a solid competitive advantage for us. We seem to be able to deal with challenges and opportunities quicker and learn better because of collaboration.

The metaphoric fence chats are also found in more isolated situations, where someone just needs a hand.

A few years ago, on a very wet, very muddy and very tight harvest, I got myself out of a bind by calling around until I found someone who could lend me a truck and a harvester the next morning. At Framingham, we have a smoko room full of bottles of wines from people we have lent equipment to

4 / Winepress August 2019

or done a favour for.

You see that all the time in our industry, and especially around vintage - if you need help you know you can reach out.

That kind of collegiality takes work, and it doesn’t happen if we all stay isolated in our own wineries and vineyards.

Marlborough Winegrowers bought The Marlborough Wine Show because we know that getting together takes a concentrated effort. Everyone loves it when it happens, but someone has to organise the party. The Long Lunch we use to announce the winning wines and Lifetime Achievement Award is a

“I believe regional camaraderie is a solid competitive advantage for us.”

Tom Trolove celebration of our industry, its people, and the wines that have put us on the map.

Which leads back to the value of those medals and trophies. Over the past 35 years, Marlborough has built a global reputation that is the envy of

other winegrowing regions. Protecting and enhancing that reputation should be at the forefront of all we do, and there is absolutely no room for complacency. I have seen some wine reviews lately that make me very concerned about the way the world sees us. We have risen quickly and if we are not careful, we will become the easy one to beat up. It is in everyone’s interests to ensure our reputation remains rock solid.

Appellation Marlborough Wine is an example of industry members lifting the quality bar for Marlborough wine, and The Marlborough Wine Show is another. It is about trying to continually reinforce our reputation as a world-class wine growing region.

Not everyone can win a gold medal or a trophy, but everyone in the industry benefits from trying, and from the halo cast by those who do.

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MET REPORT Table 1: Blenheim Weather Data – July 2019

July July 2019

2019 compared

to LTA GDD’s for month -Max/Min¹ 17.9 194% GDD’s for month – Mean² 36.5 155% Mean Maximum (°C) 14.7 +1.6°C Mean Minimum (°C) 4.8 +2.2°C Mean Temp (°C) 9.7 +1.8°C Ground Frosts (<= -1.0°C) 8 7 less Air Frosts (<0.0°C) 2 5 less Sunshine hours 137.2 84% Sunshine hours – lowest Sunshine hours – highest Sunshine hours total – 2019 1566.1 112% Rainfall (mm) 119.6 193% Rainfall (mm) – lowest Rainfall (mm) – highest Rainfall total (mm) – 2019 379.2 102% Evapotranspiration – mm 35.7 99% Avg. Daily Windrun (km) 197.4 86% Mean 9am soil temp – 10cm 6.7 +1.7°C Mean 9am soil temp – 30cm 8.5 +1.4°C

July LTA 92 23.5 13.1 2.6 7.9 15.1 7.2 163.0 119.6 230.8 1399.2 61.9 9.9 174.1 371.7 36.2 229.6 5.0 7.1

Period of LTA

July 2018

(1996-2018) 15.5 (1996-2018) 31.8 (1986-2018) 14.5 (1986-2018) 3.8 (1986-2018) 9.2 (1986-2018) 17 (1986-2018) 1 (1986-2018) 174.2 1996 1952

(1986-2018) 1392.6 (1986-2018) 71.6 2014

1998

(1986-2018) 563.8 (1996-2018) 42.4 (1996-2018) 225.7 (1986-2018) 6.3 (1986-2018) 8.1

¹GDD’s Max/Min are calculated from absolute daily maximum and minimum temperatures ²GDD’s Mean are calculated from average hourly temperatures Temperature July’s mean temperature of 9.7°C was 1.8°C above the long-term average (LTA) temperature (1986-2018). July 2019 equalled the warmest July on record for the 87 years 1932 to 2018 (July 2005). The average daily maximum temperature of 14.7°C was 1.6°C above the LTA. The average daily minimum temperature of 4.8°C was 2.1°C above the LTA. In Met Report one year ago I said, “July 2018 is now Table 2: Weekly temperatures, rainfall, sunshine and frosts recorded in Blenheim during July 2019

Mean Mean Mean Rainfall Sunshine

Max Min Diff. (mm) (hours)

1-7 July 15.3 3.1 9.2 +1.3 13.8 34.1 8-14 July 15.1 4.6 9.9 +2.0 13.0 27.1 15-21 July 12.8 5.8 9.3 +1.4 71.4 20.9 22-28 July 15.6 5.5 9.9 +2.0 13.8 38.5 29-31 July 14.4 4.7 9.6 +1.7 7.6 16.8 1-31 14.68 4.75 9.72 +1.82 119.6 137.4 LTA 1986-2018 13.1 2.7 7.9 61.9 163.0 15.1

6 / Winepress August 2019

Total Total Ground Air Frosts Frosts 4 2 3 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 8 2 7.2

the fourth warmest July on record”. As reported on many previous occasions, Blenheim’s winter temperatures are getting increasingly warmer.

Temperature for seven months January to July Table 3 presents the five warmest January to July periods on record for the 88 years 1932 to 2019. January to July 2019 is now the second warmest on record after 1998. Quite remarkably three of the five warmest years on record have occurred since 2016.

Table 3: Warmest January to July periods on record for the 88 years 1932 to 2019 Year Mean temperature January to July 1998 14.54°C January to July 2019 14.49°C January to July 2016 14.44°C January to July 1990 14.33°C January to July 2018 14.19°C Frosts July 2019 recorded eight ground frosts and two air frosts, well below the LTA (Table 1). The coldest ground frost of -4.1°C was recorded on 18 July 2019 and the coldest air frost of -0.2°C was recorded on 6 July 2019.

Soil Temperature Soil temperature is measured at four depths at the Grovetown Park weather station in Blenheim; 10 cm, 20 cm, 30 cm and 100 cm. Prior to the mid-1990s weather readings were manually recorded once a day at 9am. Since automation the Blenheim weather station has continued to record the 9am soil temperatures, in order for comparisons with the manually recorded data. However, the automated data also records average hourly soil temperatures. As the 10 and 20 cm soil temperatures are fairly

Table 4: Average soil temperatures at 9am in July 2019

Soil temperature depth 10 cm 20 cm 30 cm 100 cm

Mean Soil temperatures in July 2019 6.7°C 7.5°C 8.5°C 11.0°C

Deviation from the long-term average +1.7°C +1.3°C +1.4°C +1.1°C

Figure 1: 9am soil temperature at 10 cm depth at the Grovetown Park weather station for the 12-months July 2018 to June 2019, compared to the long-term average

shallow they are often close to their daily minimum at 9am, as these soil temperatures drop overnight with cool air temperatures and frosts.

All four soil temperatures were well above average during July 2019 (Table 4), as a consequence of the above average air temperatures and well below average number of ground frosts.

The 9 am soil temperature at 10 cm depth can vary by up to 3.5°C between a warm and cool day. The shallow

soil temperature largely follows the pattern of the air temperature. Over the course of a year the LTA 10 cm soil temperature peaks at approximately 19.0°C in early January and reaches a low of approximately 5.0°C in late June. In contrast the soil temperature at 100 cm depth shows only very slight variation from day to day, with a slow increase in soil temperature to a peak of approximately 19.0°C in early February and then a slow decline to a minimum of approximately 9.9°C in

early July. Figures 1 and 2 display the 10 cm and 100 cm 9am soil temperatures over the 2018-19 year in comparison with the LTA. Figure 1 shows the fluctuation in the 9am soil temperature at 10 cm depth from day to day. The 10 cm soil temperature was below average for quite a lot of the days between September and December 2018.

However, with the arrival of the hot temperatures at the end of December 2018 the 10 cm soil temperature jumped from 16.7°C on 27 December 2018 to 22.8°C on 3 January 2019 and the shallow soil temperature remained largely above average through until mid-June 2019.

What the graph of the 10 cm soil temperature at 9am doesn’t show is the marked temperature fluctuations that can occur during a single day. The shallow soil warms up in the morning as it absorbs incoming solar radiation and it then cools down in the evening with radiative cooling as heat is lost from the topsoil. When the topsoil is very dry the temperature at 10 cm depth can almost get as hot as the air temperature. On 28 January 2019 when the maximum air temperature reached 35.0°C in Blenheim, the 10 cm soil temperature rose from 21.6°C at 8 am to 32.6°C at 5 pm.

The topsoil was also bone dry with the lack of rainfall during January.

This highlights a reason why newly established grapevines that only have shallow roots need to be kept wellwatered. Moisture helps to keep the soil temperature cooler. If the soil dries

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Figure 2: 9am soil temperature at 100 cm depth at the Grovetown Park weather station for the 12-months July 2018 to June 2019, compared to the long-term average

rainfall for January to July 2019 of 379.2 mm is 102% of the LTA of 371.7 mm.

While total rainfall so far in 2019 is very close to the long-term average, it hides the fact that monthly rainfall has varied quite markedly, as shown in last monthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Met Report. in the last two years. The Rarangi weather station is reasonably close to the hills on the northern side of the Wairau valley and rainfall gets higher the closer you get to the northern hills. Figure 3 shows the markedly higher rainfall at all the weather stations in the 2017-18 year.

Rob Agnew Plant & Food Research / Marlborough Research Centre

However, it was still well above the lowest total for the 90 years 1930-2019, of 114.5 hours, recorded in July 1996.

Total sunshine hours for Blenheim for January to July 2019 are 1566.1; or 112% of the LTA.

out the roots will get very hot with negative effects on the vines.

Figure 2 indicates that there is little fluctuation in the 100 cm soil temperature from day to day. The 100 cm soil temperature was consistently below average from September to December 2018. With the arrival of the warm air temperatures in late December 2018 the 100 cm soil temperature rose quite rapidly and it remained well above average right through to the end of June 2019.

July 2019 recorded 119.6 mm rain, 193% of the LTA. Thirteen days during July recorded rainfall. The highest 24-hour total was 23.4 mm, recorded on 15 July. However, the wettest period during the month was from Thursday 18th through until Wednesday 24th.

Over those seven days 61.8 mm rain was recorded, with only one of the seven days recording no rain. Total

July 2019 recorded 137.2 hours sunshine, 84% of the LTA and the lowest sunshine total since July 2012.

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BRIght Future Setting the scene for science THE BRAGATO Research Institute could have its new winery operational by next vintage, with the site announced and ground broken last month.

The Research Winery, labs and offices will be built at the Marlborough Research Centre on the Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology (NMIT) Marlborough campus, alongside Plant and Food Research (PFR), New Zealand Winegrowers and Wine Marlborough. It’s the ideal site for continued collaboration between science providers and industry, says chief executive MJ Loza. “The Marlborough Research Centre has been a key supporter of our establishment from day one and I’m pleased the vision - to be colocated with key research and industry organisations - will become reality.”

There’s already been plenty of collaboration between the new neighbours, with BRI, PFR and NMIT working together to trial new fermentation tanks over the 2019 vintage. The 200 litre bespoke tanks were designed by a BRI-led project team to accommodate four smaller 17l tanks using inserts. Trials can be done on a larger scale, with the full 200l capacity, or in four replicates in a single tank. The first six prototype tanks processed Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir in the 2019 vintage, while juice from the same parcels were also fermented in commercial wineries and in PFR’s microvin tanks.

The BRI tank trials were run by Plant and Food Research and based in the NMIT teaching winery with the help of an NMIT student, says MJ. “It was a real team effort, and our location here supports and encourages that”.

The new winery design is another

example of the BRI’s broad reach, with input from winemakers, suppliers, expert consultants and researchers with experience of other research winery facilities. It will have capacity for more than 100 research fermenters and will enable trials to be linked to finished wines.

The Research Winery will trial winery equipment and technologies, winemaking processes and sustainable winemaking and winery operations.

“Not just looking at today’s issues, but setting us up to deal with tomorrow’s opportunities and challenges.”

MJ Loza It will also provide commercial research winemaking services to suppliers and industry, says BRI establishment manager Tracy Benge.

“The establishment of a worldleading, sustainable, national research winery in Marlborough will be a real draw-card for the region and the New Zealand wine industry as a whole. It will encourage new research and innovation as well as trialling

new technology and modelling sustainability.”

In October 2016, the BRI (formerly known as the New Zealand Winegrowers Research Centre) was successful in its bid to the Regional Research Institute initiative, with the Ministry of Business, Innovation and Employment promising to allocate $10.5 million in funding over three years for the venture. Since then, a further $2m was secured from MBIE tagged to the build of the research winery. The Marlborough District Council allocated $75,000 for the research centre’s establishment and a further $150,000 in co-funding for five years. “Marlborough District Council’s support and funding was an important element in our securing the MBIE funding in the first place, and their ongoing support reflects and enables the benefits BRI will deliver to the region,” says MJ. “The funding is delivering additional research capability for the industry, and an important piece of research infrastructure, aligned with industry needs.”

This time last year, the BRI took on research projects from New Zealand Winegrowers, including the Vineyard Ecosystems, Pinot Noir, and Lighter Wines projects. They, alongside the BRI’s Climate Change and proposed Grapevine Improvement projects, are aligned with industry needs but also have a strong component of “stretchy science”, says MJ, referencing higher risk science with longer horizons and lesser-known outcomes. “Not just looking at today’s issues, but setting us up to deal with tomorrow’s opportunities and challenges.”

Winepress August 2019 / 9

It’s Showtime!

Entries open for Marlborough Wine Show SOPHIE PREECE

TASTING THE best of Marlborough’s wine is a tough job, but someone’s got to do it. At this year’s Marlborough Wine Show, that someone is chief judge Jack Glover, along with the nine senior judges and six associate judges in his team. Jack says the judging panel has two out-of-town judges and a diverse range of locals, in a package that promises the necessary breadth of knowledge. “The show looks at Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay by sub-region, so we need experience from across the valleys.”

He’s also promising a burst of fresh talent, with a two-year training system for associate judges, who can go on to work with other shows around the country. New judges can challenge traditional thinking and bring fresh ideas, while the seasoned talent ensures continuity, Jack says. “It’s a bit like a sports team, with a bit of the old and a bit of the new.”

Wine writer Joelle Thomson is judging at the event, while sponsorship from Quay Connect will allow the show to bring in international judge Bhatia Dheeraj, who is head sommelier at two hatted restaurant Est. Merivale Sydney. Last month Est. won Gourmet Traveller’s Wine List of the Year Awards and Bhatia won the Judy Hirst Award for the Sommelier Responsible for the Best List. He won the 2017 Ruinart Sommelier Challenge in Australia, and has previously taken second and third places in the Hong Kong challenges. Over the past eight years, Bhatia has worked and judged around the world, honing his appreciation for the world’s wines 10 / Winepress August 2019

and cultures. He says coming to Marlborough is a “fascinating opportunity” to learn about its latest trends of viticulture and winemaking. “Over the years a lot has changed in Marlborough and this will be an opportunity to gain more insight.”

Jack says there are companies in Marlborough who don’t enter wine shows, but he hopes the regional show will tempt them, particularly when it comes to some “left of centre” wines.

“They might want some validation for a new alternative style or a small single vineyard project. This is a great place to showcase that and have them looked at.”

Entries opened this month and Wine Marlborough general manager Marcus Pickens is urging companies large and small to enter. Having a strong regional show is an opportunity for some friendly competitive rivalry among companies, and will help push the quality bar higher for the region, he says. The show is also a valuable platform for the wine industry at large, offering a chance to come together and recharge the region’s sense of community.

Wine Marlborough took over the show last year and immediately changed the celebration from the ubiquitous awards dinner to a lingering long lunch, which people loved, says Marcus. “It’s a great opportunity to

Photo: Richard Briggs

stop for an hour or two and celebrate the incredible success of our industry.

It’s an industry that’s been founded on collaboration, and by working together we can lift it even further.”

When it comes to the judging of wines, the new crew have retained the show’s unique aspects, developed

by Belinda Jackson and Margaret Cresswell over their eight years at the helm, including judging wines in sub regional classes, and having a Legacy class to showcase wines that age well, across a range of varieties.

Marcus says that is “a key piece in the puzzle for the future”, because there is a perception that Sauvignon Blanc should be opened young. “That is infectious, and there’s this idea that it’s true of all our wines”. Changing that reputation is a challenge, “but we have created it, and now we have to recreate our story”.

The show also recognises a member of the industry with the Lifetime Achievement Award, which went to scientist and industry stalwart Dr Rengasamy Balasubramaniam last year.

For more information go to marlboroughwineshow.co.nz

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Benchmarking 2019 Expenses up and profits down on model Marlborough vineyard SOPHIE PREECE

THE PROFITABILITY of Marlborough’s wine industry has taken another hit, down 13% on last year and 31% on the five-year average. The 2019 Viticulture Benchmarking report, which portrays a model vineyard of 30 hectares, shows a profit before tax of $8,700 per hectare, down from $10,000 in 2018 and $14,800 in 2016.

The decline in profitability is largely due to a 10% increase in working expenses over the past year, with costs at $12,235 p/ha in the 2019 harvest, compared to $11,135 in 2018. Working expenses are up 31% on 10 years ago, and the trend is set to continue as the cost of labour increases.

Fruition’s Greg Dryden, who produced the report for New Zealand Winegrowers and the Ministry for Primary Industries, says there was no change in Sauvignon Blanc yields between 2018 and 2019, with an average of 14 tonnes p/ha. Sauvignon Blanc accounts for 78% of the model vineyard. Across all varieties, yields were at 12.5 tonnes p/ha which is 2% down on 2018.

There was “virtually no change” in grape prices either. Sauvignon Blanc grapes averaged $1,855 per tonne in 2019, which is a 2% rise on 2018.

However, Greg says that upward shift reflects the reduction in surplus fruit sold at a low price, which can drag down the average. In the 2018 vineyard model, 1.3% of Sauvignon Blanc was over winery yield limits and sold at an average of $990 per tonne, compared with 2.5% in 2017 and 5% in 2016.

With yield and price steady, the 12 / Winepress August 2019

reduction in profits is mainly down to the increased cost of running a vineyard, and in particular the cost of labour, Greg Dryden and Jim Mercer which was $6,760 p/ha in 2019, up to accountants, and a shortage of $490 or 8% on 2018. The minimum affordable housing is exacerbating wage has increased by 42% over the past 10 years and is set to rise from its the problem. There were continued concerns around the dilution of current rate of $17.70 per hour to $20 Marlborough’s Sauvignon Blanc brand, by 2021. and Fruition’s Jim Mercer warned Earnings before interest and tax (EBIT) for the model, which relates the that, while well down the list in terms of environmental impact, viticulture profit to capital employed, are at 4.5%, needed to be ready for more media also a drop of 13% on 2018. That may scrutiny going forward. be taking the heat off capital values, Growers are “cautiously optimistic” which are measured at $221,400 per regarding the year ahead and hoping planted hectare for the model. Colliers that an increase in grape prices will International director Tim Gifford cover the lift in working expenses. The says over the past year, there have report notes that underlying industry been very few sales in Marlborough’s vineyard market and “very little capital confidence is underpinned by strong demand for Sauvignon Blanc. appreciation, if anything”.

Changes to the Overseas To see the full Vineyard Benchmarking Investment Office rules and a lack of report go to nzwine.com available capital might be feeding into that, as well as reduced profitability.

The Vineyard Model seeks to However, he says there has been a typify an average Marlborough “flurry of activity” in recent weeks, and vineyard, based on 30 producing the reduction in profitability, which hectares, using data and could be offset by improved yields, interviews from 50 vineyards, would also be mitigated by the current including 12 in the Awatere Valley low cost of capital. “Where else do you and 38 in the Wairau Valley. There put your money?” are 32 contract growers and 18 Key issues raised by the report winery-operated vineyards. Five include increased concerns around of the surveyed vineyards are mealy bug and trunk disease, as well BioGro certified. as water security. Recruitment of labour remains a major issue across the board, from pruners to mechanics

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Diversity and Inclusion Growing better workplaces SOPHIE PREECE

WHEN COMPANIES do diversity and inclusion well, they do well because of it, says the head of membership services from Diversity Works New Zealand. But there is a lot to learn and many dimensions to making up a diverse and inclusive work environment, according to Mary Haddock-Staniland. “It is broad…. It’s not just about hiring someone who is French, or hiring a lesbian, or someone that is in a wheelchair doing accounts three hours a week.”

At its essence, the work is about ensuring people feel comfortable, she says. “They don’t need to self-edit; they can be their true and authentic self. Because of that, you will get better outcomes - more productivity, staff retention stays the same, if not better, and acquiring talent doesn’t become difficult, because people down the road have heard how amazing you are and they are banging down the door to come and work there.”

Mary visited Marlborough last month to speak to wine industry members at a Diversity and Inclusion Workshop organised by New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW). Many of the workshop conversations revealed that people and companies were unsure of how to go about doing better, she says. “They needed to know where to start and what to do. My response is, ‘it doesn’t matter where you start, as long as you are starting’.”

NZW, Constellation, Pernod Ricard, Lion and DB Breweries are members of Diversity Works, along with 500 other organisations around the country, ranging from the private to public sector, and from

14 / Winepress August 2019

not for profits to large businesses.

However, small businesses such as those in Marlborough’s wine industry, which are male dominated and potentially skeptical, can require some encouragement, Mary says. That encouragement begins with the A diverse bunch in Cloudy Bay’s 2019 vintage. Photo Jim reassurance that Tannock there is support and information available to help them on their “journey” to a diverse and inclusive workplace, she says. “Our role as a national body is to dial down defensiveness and to dial up curiosity.”

NZW leadership and communities manager Nicky Grandorge says the event was about growing workplaces that can attract and retain the best people. “We want to make sure that everyone working in our industry feels they belong, has equal opportunities to reach their goals and retains their passion for the New Zealand wine industry.”

Nicky says it was great to have 40 participants from a wide range of roles within the wine industry, including Mary Haddock-Staniland a good mix of genders, age and nationality. However, she hopes more more workshops around the country industry leaders will attend future later in the year. To find out more gatherings, to better encourage a shift about diversity and inclusion, to attend in company culture where needed. “It a course on unconscious bias, or to is also important to highlight that the become a Diversity Works NZ member diversity and inclusion journey is as go to diversityworksnz.org.nz relevant to small organisations as it is to large”, she says. NZW plans to run

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Hard choices Grape growers should take the softer options when it comes to chemicals SOPHIE PREECE

HARD CHEMICALS are creating a slippery downward spiral for New Zealand grape growers, and are likely exacerbating problems such as mealybug. “Nothing good can come from them,” said Plant & Food Research scientist Vaughn Bell at Grape Days in Marlborough earlier this year.

“In general the reliance on hard chemistry is growing, especially in Marlborough,” he said, noting a doubling of approved applications for such sprays over the past three years, most of them related to the region.

“You are getting a lot of blocks in this region in particular that are being hit by one and maybe two broad spectrum, hard products.”

Broad spectrum pesticides kill off beneficial insects, along with pests like mealy bug. But the pests are resilient and rapid breeders, so rebound much sooner than the beneficial insects, then flourish without those natural predators to check them, he said.

“Ultimately you start a downward spiral, which becomes cumulative.”

Vaughn talked of the resulting “induced outbreaks” of pest species like mealybug, “and I think that is what you are starting to see in Marlborough”. Despite that alarming shift, the reliance on hard chemicals is increasing, according to regional spray diary data from the past three growing seasons. “We have this trajectory that is slowly climbing and we have to try 16 / Winepress August 2019

and reverse that,” he said.

Vaughn called for a refocus on softer Mealybug is becoming an increasing issue in Marlborough vineyards. Photo Matt Fox chemistry, with active for people living and working in the ingredients that will hit the pests but vineyards. They also faced less risk of not the natural biocontrol insects. “If being banned by international markets, you use these products and use them properly, you can stop mealybugs from he said, citing the harsh lessons becoming more of a problem than what learned by New Zealand’s pipfruit industry in the 1970s, ‘80s and ‘90s. they already are in some vineyards.”

Wine could not risk going down that As well as offering better longroute, he said. “Hard chemicals have term outcomes for the vineyard, the no long term future in any industry.” softer chemicals were a safer option Vaughn suggested the possibility of three applications of softer chemicals, in lieu of two, until the mealybug problem was at a more manageable position. Mealybugs are everywhere and eradication is not an option, so mitigation is about learning to live with them, he said. “Instead, what we want to do is to try and minimise the influence they have on our vines.”

“Hard chemicals have no long term future in this industry.”

Dr Vaughn Bell

Mealybugs are perennial insect pests that can negatively influence wine production, both through the creation of a sooty mould on fruit, and also as a vector for grapevine leafroll virus, which can lower fruit yield and reduce wine quality. “They are a double whammy pest,” says Plant & Food Research scientist Vaughn Bell. Mealybugs have a protective waxy coat, which makes them difficult to control, as does their propensity to reside in cracks and crevices in old wood in spring. Information on good products, the importance of good wetting and spray application, and suggested dates for spraying were outlined by Vaughn and viticultural advisor Andrew Blakeman at Grape Days.

Daily Challenges Marlborough’s champion young viticulturist Ben Richards heads to nationals SOPHIE PREECE

BEN RICHARDS is used to grappling with curly questions on a daily basis, with each of his answers influenced by the block, the variety, the disease and pest risk, and the management techniques of the past. The grower liaison officer for Indevin says responding to growers’ queries is about looking at “what has happened, what has changed and how they could do it better in the future”.

That was useful experience when the 24-year-old viticulturist competed in the 2019 Bayer Marlborough Young Viticulturist of the Year competition last month, taking out the title for the second year running. Eight contestants worked their way around nine challenges in the competition, tested on their physical skills and knowledge.

In the midst of the day’s tasks, they went head to head in the BioStart Hortisports, a race involving practical and problematic tasks. In the evening the contestants competed in a quickfire buzzer round, before delivering a three-minute speech at the awards dinner held at Wither Hills.

After winning the 2018 regional competition and competing in the nationals, Ben was promoted to his current position. He says that wasn’t directly linked to the win, but having the regional title certainly helped in his new role by giving growers confidence in his abilities - “that I do know what I am talking about” - despite his young age.

The job has given him a lot more hands-on experience, responsibility and exposure to “oddball topics”, all

of which came in handy in preparing for the 2019 regional competition. But he says winning wasn’t easy, with runnerup Jaimee Whitehead and third place getter Dan Ben Richards at work in the Young Viticulturist competition Warman - both from Constellation - hard on his heels. having also represented Hawke’s Bay “I knew it would be a lot harder this in 2017, and there’s a lot more pressure year and it was a lot closer than I this time, he says, pretty determined to would have liked.” bring the title back for Marlborough.

But winning is just a bonus, because it’s being in the competition - whether regional or national - that has the most impact, he says. “It’s hard to say, ‘yes I am willing to be judged by industry leaders; by experts in that field’,” he says. “No matter what happens, the employers and sponsors see that you are willing to put yourself out there.” The competitors also benefit from meeting people of similar age with the same passion, Ben says. “So that you have contacts and friends for life in the industry.”

The national winner will become the Bayer Young Viticulturist of the Year 2019, taking home a Hyundai Kona for a year, an Ecotrellis travel grant, Bahco golden secateurs, a Ben will go on to represent leadership week and cash. They will Marlborough in the national final, held also go on to represent the wine in Hawke’s Bay in conjunction with industry in the Young Horticulturist of Bragato at the end of the month. This the Year Competition in November. will be his third trip to the nationals,

“No matter what happens, the employers and sponsors see that you are willing to put yourself out there.”

Ben Richards

Winepress August 2019 / 17

Go Fish How to compete with cat videos, Kim and Kanye SOPHIE PREECE

IN A world of eight-second attention spans, it can be a battle to stand out as a brand. That was the message from marketing and communications consultant Joanna Glover at the recent Organic and Biodynamic Winegrowing Conference in Marlborough, where she spoke of “the attention economy” and its fleeting gaze. “How can you earn the attention of your consumers when they are busier and more information overloaded than ever before?” she asked. “You are not only competing with marketing messages - you are now competing with cat videos, Kim and Kanye.”

A recent study found that the average human attention span had fallen from 12 seconds in 2000, when cellphones were becoming popular, to around eight seconds today, Joanna said. Meanwhile, scientists believe that goldfish have an attention space of nine seconds, she added. “That’s a scary thought.”

Smart phones, mobile data, messaging apps and social media mean people have access to content anywhere and at any time, making it hard to focus on one subject. While attention spans are narrowing, content is increasing, she told the attendees.

And standing out in a crowded community requires content “that stops the scroll”.

There is no magic bullet for achieving cut through, and companies needed to plan for a marathon not a sprint by building a connection with their audience and creating content that matters to them, Joanna said. “The key, I believe, to standing out is to become a storyteller.” That’s not about

18 / Winepress August 2019

product or hard sell, “although you do have the opportunity to talk about your wine in a creative way”, she added.

“Through Joanna Glover. Photo Jessica Jones Photography consistent, small stories you can build brand recognition value for your consumer needs to be and depth and humanity into your top of mind.” brands. When we share our stories and the stories of our people we build Practical tips from Joanna Glover connections.” Those connections, 1. Focus on what is important to alongside transparency, lead to your customer - you will need an authenticity and trust, she explained. understanding of your audience That’s important to millennial so you can tailor your content to wine drinkers, who have been them. recognised as a key target market for 2. Be entertaining. Mix up your organic wine producers. Research content - try images, video, Q&A, shows the generation tends to be polls and events. suspicious of advertising, hate a hard 3. Be authentic. Be yourself and use sell and value authenticity in the your brand voice. brands and products they purchase, 4. Help customers and prospects to she said. They don’t want to feel like solve their problems - think about they are being talked to by a marketing the customer and the questions team, but by a peer, she explained. “In they are asking. other words, they crave relationships 5. Use your content as a way to with the companies that they are differentiate yourself from buying products from.” your competitors - take time They also want convenience, “so to think about what makes you to reach this market you need to fish different. There are thousands where the fish are”, she continued. And of family-owned wineries that these fish school on social media, with have beautiful vineyards making Facebook the number one platform, premium wine, said Joanna. “What followed by Instagram, then Snapchat. makes you unique? Often it is the To be truly effective as a storyteller people behind a brand that bring you need to plan, set goals and have to light its personality.” Once you measureable objectives, whether that is have cracked this, invest in video more sales, brand recognition or more and great imagery. visitors to the cellar door, Joanna said.

“You need to earn attention - creating

Mood for Change SOPHIE PREECE

ORGANICS IS far from fashion or fad, says Richard Lees, chief executive of organic grocer Huckleberry. “It’s now a distinct segment. People recognise it as being a really important part of purchasing decisions they make.”

The deputy chair of Organics Aotearoa New Zealand (OANZ) told the Organic and Biodynamic Winegrowing Conference in Marlborough of a “very engaged” consumer base that encompasses both Huckleberry’s traditional supporters and mainstream consumers.

“Conscious consumers” range from 10-year-olds to seniors and are forcing industry to “re-think”, he said. According to the 2018 OANZ Organic Market Report, more than 50% of producers were looking at transitioning or wanted to learn more about organics. That made it vital that barriers of perceived difficulty or expense were cut down, he added.

Europe has already ridden the wave to widespread uptake - the global market for organic food is worth EUR85 billion and growing at 10.5% a year. “That’s a massive number. We have a product that people are looking for.” According to the report, New Zealand’s organic sector has grown by 30% in the past two years and is now worth about $600 million per annum.

However, Richard said there was room for interpretation in those numbers, due partly to the lack of national standard.

OANZ is currently working with the New Zealand government on that standard, which was raised by several speakers at the conference as key to progressing the organic industry.

Agriculture and Food Safety Minister Damien O’Connor announced in December that a national standard would give consumers confidence in

organic claims, and businesses certainty to invest Richard Lees. Photo by Jessica Jones Photography and innovate. New Zealand is one of only two of the top There has been strong demand 25 organic markets in the world to for organic wine from the four have voluntary instead of mandatory Huckleberry stores with licences, with standards and soon Australia will the “sweet spot” for price at between be alone in that status, said Richard, $24 and $35. People are “actively talking of markets such as Taiwan, looking” for the product and were where New Zealand organic products driven by more than price, he said. could stall at the border without a Richard noted that at the last national standard. organic wine conference, there was According to the OANZ report, a lot of talk about the lack of organic organic New Zealand wine exports labelling on the front of New Zealand were at $46.5m in 2017, up 13% from wine bottles. There’s been plenty of 2015. However, those numbers seemed movement since, and now 50% of wine “light” and it would be interesting to on Huckleberry shelves has organic “as compare with next year’s survey, said a really bold statement”.

Richard. “I wouldn’t be surprised to see that at $65 or $70m.”

What’s in a name?

When Sarah and Callum Linklater made Pinot Noir from their family-owned organic vineyard, they wanted it all out in the open. That meant giving the wine the name of the company - Windrush - and proudly displaying their BioGro certification on the front. It’s about being transparent and clear to the consumer, says Sarah, who was inspired by organic cosmetic, food and beverage brands that displayed their BioGro logo proudly. The beauty brands were competing with players that had developed their own ‘natural’ symbols, such as vegan friendly and gluten free, she says. “More brands are now using the certification seal simply, front and centre. I really liked that and I didn’t know why people weren’t doing it in wine.” She says exporting wine companies face hurdles in terms of creating a global organic label. But as a small producer selling to a few New Zealand restaurants, it was an easy decision. And the people they work with “love it”, she says. “It helps them share our story.”

New Zealand Organic Wine Awards curator Luke Thomas says New Zealand has progressed from “hiding organic status entirely”, to including the certification label on the back of the bottle and now to the front label.

“Of wines we receive, about 50% include prominent organic labelling, and all but one or two include a certification logo on the bottle.” Supermarkets now highlight organic wine with pop-out marketing and labels, he says. That’s the result of a branding campaign that portrays organic wine as a premium product, “rather than the ‘hippy alternative’ it was characterised as 10 plus years ago”.

Winepress August 2019 / 19

Their Fault Delegat’s wondrous wetland SOPHIE PREECE

THE FIRST time Rengasamy Balasubramaniam saw Fault Lake wetland, it was choked with willows, cloaked with old man’s beard, and seemed more headache than treasure.

Fast forward 10 years, and the 8 hectare ecosystem tells a story of conservation, collaboration and dedication, with stands of matai, totara and kahikatea emerging above a vibrant habitat of flaxlands, sedgelands and raupo reedlands.

It is “heart warming” to see, says the grower business development manager for Delegat, which owns Fault Lake vineyard and the wetland in its midst. Over the past decade Rengasamy, known as Bala, has watched planted podocarps push clear of the undergrowth, while endemic species regenerate and a diversity of lifeforms flourish, providing welcome relief from the Wairau Valley’s monoculture of vines. “In 10 years or so, it will be an outstanding place,” he says.

When Delegat bought the block, the wetland was smothered with noxious weeds. The company dug into its restoration, attacking and removing pest plants before planting more than 4,800 natives alongside the existing and in some cases rare - trees, grasses, ferns and shrubs in the wetland, transforming the ailing remnant into a significant ecological island on the plains.

Wetland expert Robert Fryer, managing director of Nelson-based FuturEcology, has been involved in the project since 2015. He says Fault Lake’s inspiring restoration is thanks to initial funding and assistance from the Marlborough District Council’s (MDC) Significant Natural Areas programme and from the Ministry for the Environment, along with the 20 / Winepress August 2019

determination of Delegat to see the project through. “In years to come it will be an extraordinary wetland.” He says planting appropriate species helps to provide a year-round food source as well as safe habitat for birds, “and Fault Lake wetland is of a large enough scale to provide refuge for many native species”.

The council brought FuturEcology in after the first stage of work was complete, with willows poisoned Rengasamy Balasubramaniam at Fault Lake. Photo by Jim and podacarps Tannock planted, to help Delegat manage the ongoing work. It’s Robert’s happy says. “This is the neat thing about place, “because the closer we are to Delegat. They have moved beyond water the more we like it”. Wetlands the wetlands and into their other in particular really float his boat. vineyards. They really get it along “These are some of the most complex the water courses and how can we ecosystems we have. The different improve those.” relationships between different The company’s vineyard staff want organisms is absolutely fascinating and their waterways to be functioning we don’t understand so much of it,” well, “but they also understand that he says. “They are so important - the they have an ecological function”, he kidneys of the planet. That’s a bit of a says. And where he once spent a lot of cliché but it’s so true.” time guiding or suggesting options, he He’s been impressed by Delegat’s now has Bala or vineyard managers dedication to restoring Fault Lake, approaching him with ideas to improve as well as the 4ha Oyster Bay terrace the wetland and waterways. A recent wetland further up the Wairau Valley, example was the discovery of a where 2,000 trees have been planted. population of porcupine shrubs - “one But the work doesn’t stop there, Robert of Marlborough’s little gems”, Robert

says. “They were all for, ‘how can we preserve this?’”

Bala agrees that passion for the work has been catching. Delegat started out with a plan to restore a neglected ecosystem, but time and experience has spread the scope of that work to waterways on new and existing blocks, he says. “Now, every water course and wetland you look at from a different perspective with a view to bringing back some of the

“These are some of the most complex ecosystems we have.”

company like Delegat is really good to work with.”

These days, work at Fault Lake is about management, ensuring the weeds stay down, including old man’s beard, “which never sleeps”, he says.

“We don’t just think about planting trees. We think about growing trees and a lot of that is straight out weed control and keeping an eye on the big picture.”

Projects like Fault Lake are heartening, he adds. “Attitudes have changed, and drains are becoming streams and full of biodiversity. We are celebrating some of those interesting little things that are unique to us.”

Fault Lake is a stunning wetland in a very public place, “which is on a path

Robert Fryer riparian margin vegetation to enhance the aqua-ecology and erosion control.”

Robert says landowners typically respond positively once they realise what they have under their nose, or rather, under their willows and weeds. “We try and find those interesting things and explain it and what it means. Often landowners are really chuffed to hear that they have something their neighbours don’t have.” It’s all about education, he adds.

“And willingness, which is why a

It’s planting time

of restoration to its former glory”, says MDC biodiversity coordinator Mike Aviss. “Wetlands on the plains are virtually all gone, lost to development for agriculture and other uses, such as urbanisation.” Whatever is left is precious, “but not all are as beautiful as this one”.

It’s a common misconception that native planting to protect waterways means putting in a forest, says wetlands expert Robert Fryer. In fact carex secta, a native grass, can do plenty of “heavy lifting” along the edge of streams and other waterways, by offering shade and a protected habitat.

Te Waiharakeke: The waters of flax Swampy valley floors once stretched from the lower Wairau Plains to Renwick, lush with harakeke, raupo, toi toi and cabbage trees, and host to eels, wildfowl, native fish and insects. Blenheim was called Te Waiharakeke, the waters of flax, by Māori , then called Beavertown by European settlers, who established nine flax mills around the province in the 19th and early 20th centuries. They also diverted rivers, including the Wairau and Taylor, and put in drains in order to farm the land. According to a survey conducted for the Marlborough District Council by wetlands specialist John Preece in 2001, the Blenheim, Para and Pelorus Ecological District had just 497 hectares of its original 14,683ha of wetlands, with more than 12,400ha of swamp cleared and drained.

However, wetlands are vital in maintaining healthy ecosystems, says the National Wetlands Trust of New Zealand, listing the functions of these natural workhorses. They remove silt and nutrients from land runoff, cleaning it on its way to rivers or lakes. They also store excess stormwater, slowly releasing it to recharge groundwater. The trust’s website says wetlands play a part in combatting climate change. “Healthy peat bogs are year-round sinks of carbon, locking up to five tons per hectare – indefinitely.”

Biodiversity Coordinator Mike Aviss has 35 years’ experience managing threatened species.

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Winepress August 2019 / 21

Generation Y-ine Alison Downs loves unravelling the mystery of a wine SOPHIE PREECE

WHEN THE universe sent Alison Downs a message, she quit her job and moved to the other side of the world.

For quite some time it had whispered to her during Saturday mornings spent at WSET courses at the London Wine School, tempted her to spend her commissions on expensive wines and events, and to think about New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc while working for an international tech company.

But she suppressed the urge to quit a lucrative career to follow a passion for wine, until the universe started to become more insistent. First, she was seated next to a Master of Wine at a wedding, second, he referred her to Saint Clair Family Estate winemaker Hamish Clark, and third, she was swiftly offered a job at the company’s cellar door in Marlborough.

One week later a bad day at work made Alison decide that “sometimes the universe has a bit of a plan for you and you have to admit, ‘alright universe, show me what I have to do’.”

On her lunch break that same day, she booked a ticket to New Zealand, giving herself two months to prepare.

Dropping her career and packing her bags, Alison promised her mum she’d be back within six months. But three years later she’s building a brand new house in Blenheim with her brand new fiancé Scott, planning a wedding, loving her dual roles as Delta brand manager and Saint Clair account manager, and still hungry for stories of wine.

Alison says passion is an overused word, but it’s the best way to describe 22 / Winepress August 2019

her fascination with wine, “intrigued with how there is so much of a story behind every bottle”. Drinking a wine and learning its story is like “unravelling a mystery”, she says.

That realisation struck while working in a fine dining restaurant in her hometown of Colchester, where she tasted “posh” wines she could never afford, while learning the basics from “amazing” sommeliers. It grew through “wine and cheese evenings” while at university in Warwick, where she studied politics and international relations.

When she moved to London, aged 21, Alison flatted with Lucy Hargreaves, co-owner of Spiral Cellars, and continued her immersion in wine.

But it wasn’t until she was 25 and at Lucy’s wedding, seated next to Tim Atkin MW, that she realised that a different path was a viable choice. “I needed someone to tell me, ‘yes you can do this’.”

Within weeks she had a job offer and within months she was at the Saint Clair Vineyard Kitchen, helping customers unravel the mystery of wine too. She stayed at the cellar door for 18 months, nine of them as assistant manager, then became an account manager at Saint Clair, with a side role as Delta’s brand manager.

She embraced both with gusto, loving the breadth of the former role and the potential of the second, with half her time now spent on Delta.

The Delta Wine Company was founded in 2000 as a passion Pinot project, starting with choosing the ideal site up the Wairau Valley, then planting Dijon clones on a mix of flat and sloping vineyards. The Delta brand, owned by the Ibbotson family, also produces Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, with sites chosen solely for their ability to best express the variety. It’s a “boutique” offering that can lean on the marketing and distribution of Saint Clair, says Alison, who delights in having the best of both worlds.

She continues to adore Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, but hopes to see the region’s other varieties, including Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, stretch their wings on the world stage, alongside the region’s flagship wine. “There will always be a place for Sauvignon Blanc. But I think there is so much potential out there.”

New World of Judges A new scholarship is set to nurture New Zealand’s next generation of wine judges. New World has partnered with the Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology (NMIT), to offer two top viticulture and winemaking students the chance to be associate judges in the New World Wine Awards each year. Chair of judges Jim Harré says the opportunity will provide a fantastic - and demanding - learning opportunity. “Tasting beautiful wines all day sounds like the best job in the world – but it’s challenging work when you are set to assess up to 120 glasses each day, over three full days of judging.”

The new associates will spend their time tasting and learning alongside 17 senior judges, who bring more than 200 years of combined experience to the table.

They include international judge Nick Bulleid MW from Australia and top judges from around New Zealand’s wine industry including wine experts, winemakers and wine scientists.

Jim says the awards’ collaborative approach to judging, where experts taste the wines and then discuss and score them in consultation, is an ideal way for new talent to learn the ropes and broaden their palates. “And to make it even more interesting, we judge all wines blind, only seeing the wine in the glass alongside the varietal, vintage and country of origin.” The students will use the 100-point scale, although their scores won’t count towards the final medal results.

Pam Wood, NMIT’s programme lead specialist viticulture and winemaking, welcomes such“industrylinked learning”, which puts students in touch with experts from across New Zealand and the world.

This year’s competition has drawn record-breaking numbers of Chardonnay, with more than 180 wines, most of them from New Zealand. Jim says it is the first time in the awards’ 17-year history that the Chardonnay class has outpaced other popular varietals, “overtaking New Zealand’s white-wine darling Sauvignon Blanc, and equalling Pinot Noir entries, to lead across all the classes”.

However, Marlborough is bucking that trend. The region has 435 wines in the competition, making up a third of the field, with the numbers led by Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir rather than Chardonnay.

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Winepress August 2019 / 23

Biosecurity Watch Winter biosecurity – it pays to stay vigilant SOPHIE BADLAND

DAYS ARE shorter, there is frost on the ground, temperatures have cooled, and the last leaves have fallen. Vines enter winter dormancy, insects hide away to ride out the winter, and the pressure from pests and diseases reduces along with the temperature.

Biosecurity is easily forgotten during the winter months when pests and disease aren’t generally visible amongst the vines, but there are many reasons why it is important to remain vigilant through the cold period and use the time to ensure your site is wellprotected come next growing season.

Pruning – associated risks from tools, footwear, and grapevine trunk disease Pruning can be a busy time in the vineyard, with staff and contractors moving from site to site. Even in winter, pests, diseases and weed seeds are easily introduced into a vineyard if tool and footwear hygiene practices aren’t maintained by those working in and around the vines. It’s a good idea to have a set of tools that are assigned exclusively to a property and ensure that these are washed and sanitised between blocks to remove plant residue and soil. Consider using two sets of tools, and alternate between rows so one set can be rested in sanitising solution while the other

is in use. If contractors are bringing their own tools on site, discuss the expectations that you have around biosecurity with them. Check that their tools are clean before use and provide cleaning and sanitising equipment that can be used throughout the job. If any disease is present on your site, ensure pruners start with the least diseased area and move to the most diseased area to minimise the likelihood of disease transmission.

Pruning cuts can also expose vines to spores from fungal pathogens such as Eutypa lata, Phaeomoniella chlamydospore and Botryosphaeria, which cause grapevine trunk disease.

To minimise the risk of this, pruning should not be done in wet conditions and pruning wounds should be protected with pruning paste or an appropriate fungicide spray.

Vehicles and machinery Mud, soil and associated plant material can build up in wheel arches, tyre treads and underneath vehicles during winter, making it easier for pests, pathogens and weed seeds to hitch a ride into your vineyard. Make it clear that vehicles and machinery must be clean before coming on to your site and direct them to a washdown facility if you have one. Ensure only essential vehicles have access to your vineyard;

others should be left in designated parking areas away from the vines.

Inspect high-risk machinery to ensure cleanliness before it is used. Once work has been completed, pay it forward by ensuring that vehicles and equipment are clean before leaving your site.

International workers Many vineyards and contractors employ international workers for pruning work during the winter.

Before they start work on your site, ensure biosecurity awareness is included in the induction process and outline your expectations with regards to vehicles, footwear, and tool hygiene. Ensure there is a place where footwear and tools can be cleaned and sanitised if contractors do not have cleaning gear with them. New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) has produced a factsheet, ‘Biosecurity Awareness for International Staff’, available on the members website.

Overwintering insects Just because it’s harder to see them doesn’t mean they aren’t there. Many insects go into diapause over winter and hide in the soil, leaf litter or cracks in the bark. Mealy bug can often be found in the bark of vines or in the soil at the vine base during the winter period, and therefore can

IF YOU SEE ANYTHING UNUSUAL

CATCH IT . SNAP IT . REPORT IT .

Call MPI biosecurity hotline 0800 80 99 66 24 / Winepress August 2019

still potentially be spread by vehicles, footwear and tools. Other insects like the harlequin ladybird choose to overwinter in sheltered spaces such as spray sheds, containers and other vineyard outbuildings; this is a great time to attack overwintering aggregations of ladybirds with ripcord or a similar insecticide, to prevent them from heading back out into the vineyard come spring.

Brown marmorated stink bug (BMSB) is another insect which prefers to overwinter indoors. BMSB is not yet present in New Zealand but is highly likely to arrive - keep an eye out for any suspicious looking stink bugs inside vineyard buildings and call the Biosecurity NZ hotline (0800 80 99 66) immediately if you think you’ve found one.

Vineyard biosecurity site assessment It’s never too early to plan ahead and if you find you have a bit of downtime during the winter months, have a go at completing the vineyard biosecurity

site assessment. This is a tool which will help you establish where your site is currently at in relation to biosecurity best practice and identify priorities for improvement. It looks at all aspects of vineyard biosecurity management including pests, disease and weeds, product management, equipment and vehicles, and people movement.

The NZW biosecurity team is happy to provide assistance, feedback and advice to anyone wanting to know more.

Escaping the cold? Don’t bring back any unwanted hitchhikers with you If you’re leaving the country for warmer places during the winter, use the NZW ‘Returning to NZ’ biosecurity checklist to ensure you don’t bring any exotic pests or diseases back into the vineyard with you. Check your luggage thoroughly for hitchhiking pests like BMSB, be aware of the contents of any gifts you receive and declare any potential risk items (such as food) to quarantine officers upon arrival.

Conclusion Winter may seem to be a time where biosecurity and pest and disease management takes a back seat.

However, this is most definitely not the case. Thinking effective biosecurity during the winter will help set up the coming growing season and help to ensure production and quality for the 2020 vintage. NZW recommends staying vigilant for potential pests all year round. Remember, if you see anything unusual, Catch It; Snap It; and Report It to the Biosecurity NZ hotline on 0800 80 99 66, and get in touch with the NZW biosecurity team (biosecurity@nzwine.com).

The factsheets and biosecurity site assessment mentioned in this article can be downloaded from https:// www.nzwine.com/members/ grow/biosecurity/protecting-yourvineyards/.

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Winepress August 2019 / 25

Industry News La Fête A good crowd of Francophiles attended Clos Henri’s Bastille Day event last month, despite grim weather. They were there for the pastries, the pâté, the raclette and the vin chaud, along with a glass or two of Clos Henri wine. “All this was combined with live accordion to create a French atmosphere,” says EllaRose Hammond. “It was awesome to see so much support for the event, even though the weather was less than desirable. Combining with local artisans and bringing a French touch was a special way to show our French heritage but our very much Marlborough roots.” Gold coin donations from the day went to the Creative Kids Trust.

Eyes on the pies Marlborough’s wine industry is clamouring for a piece of the action in this year’s Great Burleigh Pie Pairing.

Last year’s competition drew 34 entries and was won by Tohu for their match of the Burleigh’s famous pork belly pie with a glass of Rewa Méthode Traditionnelle Blanc de Blanc. Pork belly won the day in the inaugural 2017 competition too, when tasted alongside a Lawson’s Dry Hills Pioneer Gwertztraminer 2015, in a match that remains the favourite for Burleigh co-owner Jane Dickenson (pictured).

The competition sees a leap in winter pie purchases as companies across the region, large and small, take on the challenge of finding the pie-fect match.

“Some of the bigger wineries will take three of each flavour,” Jane says. “It’s a pretty busy and exciting time for us.”

This year there is a new competition running alongside the wine pairing, with everyone in Marlborough’s community invited to come up with a new savoury pie flavour. Curried crayfish pie is just one of the “left field” fillings so far, while one woman 26 / Winepress August 2019

is contemplating whether she can release her secret family recipe, says Jane. The filling competition closes on August 16 and one of the prizes is to be a guest judge for The Great Burleigh Pie Pairing Challenge, which closes on August 23.

For an entry form and information email Angela at contact@ fifteenminutes.co.nz or use it as an excuse to head into The Burleigh for a pie –consider it research.

200 Years of New Zealand Wine September 25 marks 200 years since Reverend Samuel Marsden planted New Zealand’s first grapevines in the grounds of the Stonehouse, Kerikeri, in the Bay of Islands. The occasion will be marked by celebrations in the Bay of Islands and industry members are being encouraged to share historic images and stories of their own heritage.

Women in Wine Women in Wine New Zealand is holding its annual national networking event in Hawke’s Bay on the eve of the Bragato Conference. The event will begin with a reflection on how women began to step out during the Art Deco era. It will then look at how the Women in Wine mentoring programme has helped women in the industry flourish, as well as plans to open up the programme further. The guest

speaker is author, vineyard owner and life coach Fiona Fenwick, who helped design the mentoring programme.

The Women in Wine event is on August 27 from 6pm to 7.30pm at the Masonic Hotel in Napier. For tickets go to the events page of nzwine.com Spy Winemaker Wendy Stuckey has replaced Paul Bourgeois as chief winemaker at Spy Valley Wines. Wendy was previously chief winemaker at Constellation Brands New Zealand, overseeing production of the Kim Crawford and Nobilo brands. Prior to that role, she spent seven years at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington and 18 years in Australia’s Barossa Valley. Wendy strongly believes the wines must show a sense of place, “whether that be a single vineyard wine or a regional wine or even a New Zealand wine”. Paul Bourgeois spent 14 years as Spy’s winemaker.

Bragato 2019 Registrations are open for the annual Bragato Conference 2019, to be held in Hawke’s Bay on August 28 and 29, with sessions on wine tourism, genetics, climate change, social media and the Vineyard Ecosystems programme.

The conference dinner will be held at the Napier conference centre on the evening of Thursday, August 29 Wine Marlborough Update VANCE KERSLAKE

There was lots of interest from students and parents visiting our stand at the Marlborough Careers Evening. Thanks to Ben Richards, Marlborough Young Viticulturist of the Year, who gave up his evening to help us. The Smart+Connected

group, chaired by Wine Marlborough’s advocacy manager Vance Kerslake, continues to work on Marlborough’s labour and skills challenges. At the Marlborough Housing Group meeting we learned Wine Marlborough had some success influencing the Marlborough District Council through the Annual Plan process. Council have formed an officials group to work with us to develop a housing strategy for Marlborough. There is also good news from the National Science Challenge for Housing. Wine Marlborough supported two proposals, and both Affordable Housing and Thriving Regions received funding.

Wine Marlborough represented the industry at five sessions for the Te Tauihu economic development strategy for the top of the South, being led by Wakatū Incorporation. We encourage members to get involved with the development of the strategy.

You can register your interest at www.tetauihu.nz. The next regular Marlborough Winegrowers meeting with council is August 27, 2019. If you have any issues you want us to raise with council, email Wine Marlborough advocacy manager Vance Kerslake at advocacy@winemarlborough.nz

Felco Kiwi Pruning Competition A Marlborough pruner will be flown to Switzerland after next month’s Wine Marlborough Silver Secateurs competition, thanks to a major new sponsor. Event organiser Jeremy Hyland says pruning equipment company Felco will sponsor a New Zealand resident pruner to travel to the Felco International Pruning World Championship Competition in March 2020. That’s fantastic recognition of the importance of pruners to the region’s wine industry, he says. “We’ve created a new event, the Felco Kiwi Pruning Competition, to run on the Saturday prior to the Silver Secateurs main event, aimed at celebrating the full-time workforce that live and breathe Marlborough.”

Jeremy has helped organise the Silver Secateurs competition since it began in 1995, and says it has changed the face of the pruning industry, both in quality of work and respect for the people that undertake it. “It is about recognising the skill that goes into the maintenance of our vines, and the vital importance of doing the job well.”

The Felco Kiwi Pruning Competition will be held on August 24 and the rest of the spectator events for Silver Secateurs will be held on Sunday August 25 at Yealands Estate Vineyard in Grovetown.

Disease, with side benefits for other dormancy spraying targets. The research was designed with practical outputs for growers in mind. A fact sheet has been produced and provides sprayer set-up recommendations and operation guidelines for growers as to the respective dormant vine targets at varying planting densities. Find it at nzwine.com/members/grow/ vineyard-resources/spraying/ Marlborough Weather JAMES MORRISON

Photo Richard Briggs

Protecting Pruning Wounds In 2017, New Zealand Winegrowers contracted Plant & Food Research to research dormancy spraying. The objectives were to improve spray coverage and improve spraying rates so that deposition on to pruning wounds, trunks, and heads was maximised, with the overarching goal to address Grapevine Trunk

We’ve had reasonably quiet winter across New Zealand with little in the way of cold or extreme weather through June and July. This is the fourth mild winter in a row, but as I write there may be some snow on the way for Canterbury just to mix things up. Spring in 2018 was challenging from a forecasting perspective given the number of “close call” events in Marlborough. We had plenty of nights where temperatures pushed close to freezing across the upper South Island but were quite lucky that we did not face a major frost event such as the freeze in Central Otago. So now as winter is starting to come to a close, I

am looking ahead to see what may be in store for Marlborough this spring.

First it looks like we might see an early start to the spring westerlies.

With several cold southerly outbreaks in store for August, we may see more mixed conditions through September and early October. Some very mild days are likely under a northwest flow, but these are likely to be tempered by cold southwest changes and this may increase the risk of frost during the first half of spring. Timing is likely to be critical under these west to southwest conditions and the faster everything moves then the trickier it becomes to forecast. Sea temperatures have remained above average and this means greater potential for active rain events in spring. The weak El Nino that has persisted through winter should start to ease by October and is likely to fall back to neutral by summer.

We may see westerly winds continue at times but become less consistent through the second half of spring.

Weatherstation Frost forecasting will begin in early September with trial dates announced shortly.

James Morrison runs Weatherstation Frost Forecasting Ltd

Winepress August 2019 / 27

Wine Happenings A monthly list of events within the New Zealand wine industry.

To have your event included in next month’s Wine Happenings or Industry News pages, please email details to sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz by August 20.

For more information on these events, email Harriet Wadworth at harriet@wine–marlborough.co.nz

AUGUST 7 Tonnellerie de Mercurey Young Winemaker Marlborough Competition 8 NZW Marketing and Events Roadshow 12 Entries open for Marlborough Wine Show (see pg 10) 16 Local body elections candidate nominations close at midday 19-21 Spray Days, Blenheim, nzwine.com 22 Spray Days, Awatere, nzwine.com 23 Pinot Noir 2021 Regional Roadshow 25 Wine Marlborough Silver Secateurs competition, Yealands Estate Vineyard, Grovetown 27 Women in Wine National Event, Hawke’s Bay, nzwine.com/wiw (see pg 26) 28-29 Bragato 2019, Hawke’s Bay, nzwine.com/Bragato (see pg 26 ) SEPTEMBER 6 Entries close for Marlborough Wine Show 20 Voting begins in local body elections 25-27 Marlborough Wine Show judging OCTOBER 12 Voting closes in local body elections 25 Marlborough Wine Show Long Lunch

Young Winemaker Marlborough - August 7

28 / Winepress August 2019

Silver Secateurs - August 25

Marlborough Wine Show - September 25-27

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