Winepress - August 2023

Photo: Jim Tannock

Wairau Valley, 2384 State Highway 63

Prime young contract free Sauvignon Blanc

Nestled within this picturesque Wairau Valley, just a short 15-minute drive from Renwick Township, lies an extraordinary property that combines the best of rural living with a thriving viticulture venture The undeniable asset this property presents is an impressive 8 1 canopy hectares of contract-free Sauvignon Blanc vines, entering their prime years, yielding 17 tons per hectare on its third crop. The vineyard has been meticulously established, with its excellent A-class water right, you can be confident in its continued success Adding to this property package is a charming three-bedroom dwelling boasting stunning rural views, comfortable living, a modern bathroom and kitchen with views you will never tire of Plus, a fantastic covered outdoor entertaining area, enabling you to host effortless gatherings while enjoying a delicious barbecue or simply savoring a glass of the world-renowned Sauvignon Blanc For those seeking a versatile workspace or a haven for their hobbies, a sizable 140sqm lockable shed awaits your creative endeavors Whether you aspire to pursue your passions or set up a work-from-home space, this shed offers many possibilities Immerse yourself in the tranquil beauty of the Wairau Valley and reap the rewards from a newly established vineyard with its best producing years ahead while enjoying comfortable living without overcapitalization Don't miss this excellent opportunity to secure this compelling proposition Contact Mike Poff or Charlie Fairhall McLean today to arrange a private viewing and explore what this property has on offer

bayleys.co.nz/4135618

this issue...

REGULARS FEATURES

Editorial - Sophie Preece

Vantage Point - Fifty Years

Generation Y-ineMengran ‘Joyce’ Zhu

In the Pipeline –Quentin Davies

28 Biosecurity WatchKerrie Hopkins

30 Industry News

32 Wine Happenings

Cover: Yealands’ Chief Winemaker

Natalie Christensen says being named White Winemaker of the Year at the International Wine Challenge is a win for the team. “There are a lot of people involved in making these wines, it’s definitely not just me.” Photo Jim Tannock

See page 14.

10

Marlborough's 1990s

As Marlborough marks 50 years of wine, Brendon Burns looks at the 1990s, as the region’s wine reputation is sealed, despite a traumatic 1995 vintage. Mike Veal and Barbara Lawson share their memories of the decade

16

Pastoral Caring

After a long working life with jobs in banking, healthcare support and housing, Ruth Gill has discovered her most fulfilling role yet – providing care and support to Recognised Seasonal Employer scheme workers in Marlborough.

18

Vintage 2023

Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc accounted for more than 75% of New Zealand’s $2.4 billion in wine exports in the past year, driven by burgeoning demand, rising value, and replenishment of empty supply lines.

Photo Elisa Cigui, Dog Point Vineyards 2023

General Manager: Marcus Pickens 03 577 9299 or 021 831 820 marcus@winemarlborough.nz

Editor: Sophie Preece 027 308 4455 sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz

Marketing and Communications: Sarah Linklater 021 704 733 sarah@winemarlborough.nz

Events Manager: Loren Coffey loren@winemarlborough.nz

Advocacy Manager: Nicci Armour advocacy@winemarlborough.nz

Advertising:

Joanna May advertising@winemarlborough.nz

Grape Grower Directors:

Andrew Nation nationa@gmail.com

Anna Laugesen anna@craiglochart.co.nz

Michiel Eradus michiel@eraduswines.co.nz

Nigel Sowman nigel@dogpoint.co.nz

Tracy Johnston tracy@dayvinleigh.co.nz

Wine Company Directors:

Beth Forrest beth@forrest.co.nz

Damien Yvon damien@closhenri.com

Gus Altschwager gus@akwines.net

James Macdonald james@hunters.co.nz

Jamie Marfell Jamie.Marfell@pernod-ricard.com

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Disclaimer: The views and articles that are expressed and appear in Winepress are entirely those of contributors and in no way reflect the policy of the Marlborough Winegrowers. Any advice given, implied or suggested should be considered on its merits, and no responsibility can be taken for problems arising from the use of such information.

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From the Editor

THIS MONTH 32 years ago, David Barnsley produced the first Winepress newsletter, kickstarting what would become the most enduring wine industry magazine in New Zealand. Over the next 13 years the grape grower, who’d previously taught English at Marlborough Girls’ College, used the publication to strengthen ties between grapegrowers and the Marlborough Grapegrowers Association, setting off “all guns blazing” by cornering local MP Doug Kidd to get answers on taxes. When I spoke to David in 2016, to mark 25 years of the magazine he started, he recalled doing everything by hand in those early days, including posting out the photocopied pages of stories. David passed away in June this year, so I’d like to recognise his contribution to the industry, and this magazine.

In 2004, David passed the magazine to Tessa Nicholson, who shared wonderful stories of the wine industry in her 12 years as editor. Now, to mark the half century since Frank Yukich planted a vine with a silver coin at Brancott Estate on August 24, 1973, Tessa is releasing her book, 50 years; 50 stories : Marlborough the region that turned the wine world upside down. She says the hardest task in writing the book was in limiting herself to 50 stories. “I know there are so many more out there that also deserve their moment in the sun.”

Tessa spoke about the book to audiences at the Marlborough Book Festival last month, sharing some of the moments that helped make Marlborough what it is today. The success of our wine has changed the face of this township, bringing more than jobs, money and tourists. I see its influence on community at events like the Book Festival, where a handful of wine companies have offered relentless support over the years, and helped make the festival the success it is.

Fifty years after Frank’s symbolic vine planting, Marlborough’s wine industry, covering nearly 30,000 hectares of our valleys, is nothing short of extraordinary. The region contributed $1.8 billion of the $2.4b of New Zealand wine exports last year, thanks in large part to a single, stunning variety. “Everybody needs to be very proud of what Sauvignon Blanc and Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has done,” Philip Gregan says in our vintage and export update on page 18. In that same piece, Hunter’s Wines’ James Macdonald expresses how rare it is to have a wine region synonymous with a variety. “It’s so special and it’s so rare in the wine world, that we really do have to thank our lucky stars.”

SOPHIE PREECE

Vantage Point

Fifty Years; Fifty Stories

TESSA NICHOLSON

“WHO WOULD have thought that 50 years of viticulture in Marlborough would dominate the landscape, as well as becoming an especially important export product for the New Zealand economy?” That question came from Allan Scott recently, as I was completing my book celebrating the 50th anniversary of grapes being planted by Frank Yukich.

Allan is right, there is no way anyone could have predicted the success Marlborough would make of this venture into wine production. It could all have been a massive failure like the two ‘O’ words that dominated the 80s – olives and ostriches. Well, olives haven’t been a complete failure and Marlborough produces some fantastic olive oil, but olives certainly didn’t deliver economic success the way many had hoped. As for ostriches, the least said about them, the better.

But grapes found a niche in Marlborough’s geography and climate. Despite what at times seemed like insurmountable difficulties (75% of the first plantings died) they took off – thrived even – and produced a wine style never seen in the world before. For that we have Ross Spence to thank. He was the one who pushed and searched for a Sauvignon Blanc vine that he could propagate. He is just one of many pioneers Marlborough has to thank for being in the position it now is.

We are the envy of every other rural small town in New Zealand. I think of places like Dannevirke, Levin, Ashburton, Gore – all rural service towns. What they wouldn’t give to have an industry in their backyard that could provide jobs for the kids, attract visitors and help fund town projects like stadiums and theatres.

As one person said to me recently, what would Blenheim look like without the wine industry? Would we have a new art gallery, or state of the art theatre? Would the town have the need for lawyers, accountants, doctors and dentists? Positions often filled by the children of mature members of the community.

It hasn’t all been a walk in the park. There have been issues along the way, including bird bangers and their invasion of the peace and quiet many longed for. The monoculture is an oft repeated refrain from those who resent grapes taking over from all other land uses. Remember the Stop the Chop campaign in the early 2000s,

as trees and shelter belts were removed to allow more room for rows of vines?

There has been for many years a murmuring underbelly in the province about the wine industry. Ironically, many who complained owed their job to wine either directly or indirectly. I don’t want this Vantage Point to sound like an I have found a ‘God moment’, but I do think credit where credit’s due. Wine has made Marlborough and we should acknowledge that and appreciate it at the same time.

My book 50 years; 50 stories does just that, by focusing on the people and events that have helped forge this great industry in our province. On August 24 it will be exactly 50 years since Frank Yukich planted a vine with a silver coin and watered it in with sparkling wine up at Brancott Estate. He stated, probably facetiously, that wines from here will become world famous. Little did he know how famous.

So this month let us all raise a glass to those that helped deliver our world-famous wines and thank Frank for his foresight.

Wine journalist Tessa Nicholson has spent more than 25 years writing about Marlborough’s wine industry. This month sees the release of her book, 50 Years, 50 Stories; Marlborough the region that turned the wine world upside down, covering everything from the first plantings to Sauvignon Blanc’s stellar success, including interviews with some of the region’s most audacious pioneers. The hardest task was in limiting herself to 50 stories, says Tessa. “I know there are so many more out there that also deserve their moment in the sun.”

Early irrigation at Montana

Table 1: Blenheim Weather Data – July 2023

Temperature

July’s mean temperature of 8.5°C was 0.5°C above the LTA of 8.0°C. This is the 14th equal warmest July on record for the 92 years 1932 to 2023. Nine of the 14 warmest July’s on record are between 2000 and 2023. July is continuing its run of above average mean temperatures. The last time that July recorded a below average mean temperature was 8 years ago in 2015. The average daily maximum temperature of 14.5°C was 1.3°C above average. The average daily minimum temperature of 2.5°C was 0.3°C below average.

Record maximum temperature for July

1GDD’s Max/Min are calculated from absolute daily maximum and minimum temperatures

Mean are calculated from average hourly temperatures

Rainfall

July 2023 recorded 24.0 mm rain, 35% of the long-term average (LTA) for July of 68.8 mm (1986-2022). This is now the 11th lowest rainfall total for July over the 94year period 1930 to 2023. This is in marked contrast to the July 2022 rainfall total of 220.6 mm, the highest ever monthly rainfall for Blenheim. Total rainfall for January to July 2023 of 320.4 mm was 86% of the LTA of 373.8 mm. Total rainfall for January to July 2022 of 541.4 mm was 145% of the LTA. There were 6 rain days in July 2023 and 13 rain days in July 2022. A rain day is a day with greater than or equal to 1.0 mm (LTA is 7.4).

Table 2: Weekly weather data recorded in Blenheim during July 2023

Tuesday 18 July recorded a maximum temperature of 19.8°C at the Grovetown Park weather station. This is now the warmest July day on record for Blenheim over the 77-year period 1947 to 2023. The previous hottest July maximum temperature was 19.4°C, recorded on three occasions: 17 July 1960, 26 July 2000, 20 July 2002.

18 July was not the only very warm day during the month. 14 July recorded a maximum temperature of 18.9°C, this is now the 7th warmest July day on record. 15 July recorded a maximum temperature of 18.3°C, this is now the 15th warmest July day on record. 16 July recorded a maximum temperature

of 17.9°C, this is now the 35th warmest July day on record. When you consider that there have been 2387 July days between 1947 and 2023 (77 years*31 days =2387), it is fairly remarkable that four days in July 2023 are among the warmest July days on record.

Frosts

July recorded 16 ground frosts and 8 air frosts. This was considerably more frosts than in July 2022, which recorded only 10 ground frosts and 1 air frost, well below the LTA. The coldest ground frost of -4.2°C was recorded on 31 July 2023, closely preceded by -4.1°C on 1 July. The coldest air frost of -1.0°C was recorded on 29 July. 29 July was the coldest day of the month with a mean temperature of only 4.2°C.

Even though some years such as 2023 record higher numbers of frosts than in the previous year, the overall trend for July frost numbers is downwards. The trend line in Figure 1 indicates that the number of ground frosts recorded in Blenheim during July has dropped from approximately 22 in 1932, to 12.7 in 2023.

Sunshine

196.4 hours sunshine for July 2023 was 121% of LTA for July of 161.9 hours. This is now the fifth sunniest July on record for Blenheim, for the 94 years 1930 to 2023. This is in marked contrast to July 2022 which only recorded 116.0 hours sunshine, the second lowest on record (93rd out of 94 years). Total sunshine in Blenheim for January to July 2023 is 1314.6 hours; or 93% of the LTA total of 1407.1 hours.

Soil Moisture

The average shallow soil moisture (0 to 35 cm depth) at the Grovetown Park weather station for July was 36.0%, slightly below field capacity of approximately 38%. Blenheim has now had two months with low rainfall. Total June/July rainfall is 46.0 mm, only 34% of the LTA of 134.8 mm. This is in marked contrast to 2022 when June and July recorded 301 mm rain. Dryland pastoral farmers in Marlborough rely on good rainfall in the late autumn, winter and early spring, to recharge soil moisture and to ensure good spring pasture growth. Evenly spread and above average rainfall in August would undoubtedly be welcomed by the farming community, so long as we don’t receive any large damaging rain events.

Sunshine

196.4 hours sunshine for July 2023 was 121% of LTA for July of 161.9 hours. This is now the fifth sunniest July on record for Blenheim, for the 94 years 1930 to 2023. This is in marked contrast to July 2022 which only recorded 116.0 hours sunshine, the second lowest on record (93rd out of 94 years). Total sunshine in Blenheim for January to July 2023 is 1314.6 hours; or 93% of the LTA total of 1407.1 hours.

Soil Temperatures

With a higher number of ground frosts during July 2023 than in July 2022, the shallower soil temperatures at 10, 20, 30 cm depth were cooler in 2023. However, the 20, 30 and 100 cm soil temperatures were still above the LTA (Table 3).

Soil Moisture

Table

Soil Temperatures

Wind-run

The average shallow soil moisture (0 to 35 cm depth) at the Grovetown Park weather station for July was 36.0%, slightly below field capacity of approximately 38%. Blenheim has now had two months with low rainfall. Total June/July rainfall is 46.0 mm, only 34% of the LTA of 134.8 mm. This is in marked contrast to 2022 when June and July recorded 301 mm rain. Dryland pastoral farmers in Marlborough rely on good rainfall in the late autumn, winter and early spring, to recharge soil moisture and to ensure good spring pasture growth. Evenly spread and above average rainfall in August would undoubtedly be welcomed by the farming community, so long as we don’t receive any large damaging rain events.

With a higher number of ground frosts during July 2023 than in July 2022, the shallower soil temperatures at 10, 20, 30 cm depth were cooler in 2023. However, the 20, 30 and 100 cm soil temperatures were still above the LTA (Table 3).

Table 3: Mean soil temperatures at Grovetown Park weather station in July 2022 and 2023

Figure 2 displays the 30 cm soil temperatures for July over the 37 years 1986 to 2023. The first thing to note is that there have been some marked annual variations in 30 cm soil temperature between one year and the next. However, the trend line indicates that over that 37-year period, there has been a 1.79°C increase in soil temperature for July. 8°C is generally regarded as the soil temperature above which pasture growth starts to get under way. With warming air and soil temperatures, it is becoming noticeable that some grass growth is occurring during winter.

Average daily wind-run during July 2023 was 215.5 km, 96% of the LTA daily wind-run for July of 224.4 km. Even though the wind-run was below average, it is the highest monthly wind-run so far in 2023. Ten of the 31 days during July recorded above average wind-run. The highest daily wind-run of 463 km was recorded on 4 July. The maximum wind gust on 4 July was 78.5 km/hr. This is the highest maximum wind gust in July since July 2000.

Figure 1: Blenheim’s ground frosts in July for the 92-years 1932 to 2023

Figure 1: Blenheim’s ground frosts in July for the 92-years 1932 to 2023

3: Mean soil temperatures at Grovetown Park weather station in July 2022 and 2023

Figure

first thing to note is that there have been some marked annual variations in 30 cm soil temperature between one year and the next. However, the trend line indicates that over that 37-year period, there has been a 1.79°C increase in soil temperature for July. 8°C is generally regarded as the soil temperature above which pasture growth starts to get under way. With warming air and soil temperatures, it is becoming noticeable that some grass growth is occurring during winter.

Blenheim’s July soil temperature at 30 cm depth and trend, 1986 to 2023

Wind-run

Budburst of grapes

Average daily wind-run during July 2023 was 215.5 km, 96% of the LTA daily wind-run for July of 224.4 km. Even though the wind-run was below average, it is the highest monthly wind-run so far in 2023. Ten of the 31 days during July recorded above average wind-run. The highest daily wind-run of 463 km was recorded on 4 July. The maximum wind gust on 4 July was 78.5 km/hr. This is the highest maximum wind gust in July since July 2000.

Budburst of grapes

As mentioned on previous occasions the VineFacts phenology programme has monitored budburst at a Sauvignon blanc vineyard in Central Rapaura over the 19 years 2004 to 2022. The average date of 50% budburst over those 19 years is 3 October. 50% budburst dates for the 7-years 2016 to 2022 are presented in Table 4. The last five years (20182022) have all recorded budburst dates earlier than 3 October. Without the last five years included, the average budburst date, from 2004 to 2017, is 5 October. This indicates that budburst is becoming earlier. In the Seasonal Climate Outlook for the 3-months August to October 2023 NIWA have predicted that there is a 55% chance of above average, 40% chance of average and 5% chance of below average temperatures, for Marlborough. With that in mind it is highly likely that Marlborough will again experience an earlier than average budburst date in 2023.

As mentioned on previous occasions the VineFacts phenology programme has monitored budburst at a Sauvignon blanc vineyard in Central Rapaura over the 19 years 2004 to 2022 The average date of 50% budburst over those 19 years is 3 October. 50% budburst dates for the 7-years 2016 to 2022 are presented in Table 4. The last five years (2018-2022) have all recorded budburst dates earlier than 3 October. Without the last five years included, the average budburst date, from 2004 to 2017, is 5 October. This indicates that budburst is becoming earlier. In the Seasonal Climate Outlook for the 3-months August to October 2023 NIWA have predicted that there is a 55% chance of above average, 40% chance of average and 5% chance of below average temperatures, for Marlborough. With that in mind it is highly likely that Marlborough will again experience an earlier than average budburst date in 2023.

Rob Agnew

Plant & Food Research – Marlborough Research Centre

Figure 2: Blenheim’s July soil temperature at 30 cm depth and trend, 1986 to 2023

Table 4: Dates of budburst of Sauvignon blanc in Central Rapaura

2:

Table 4: Dates of budburst of Sauvignon blanc in Central Rapaura

Where a charming lifestyle and income combine

This unique property is offered to the market for a fortunate new purchaser to embrace a Marlborough lifestyle with multiple income streams by way of a 3 4hectares of Savuignon Blanc and separate accommodation. Situated just a stone's throw away from the expanding Renwick township, tucked down a private road in a picturesque valley lies this grand four-bedroom Tudor-style home, exuding an abundance of charm and original features Built in 2000, this residence showcases timeless architecture and provides an inviting family home for character enthusiasts The spacious interior boasts five bedrooms and a large living area, providing ample room for the whole family. Stepping outside, you'll find yourself immersed in a garden that offers a tranquil escape from the outside world But the components this property offers don’t end there! Above the impressive four-car garaging, a modern two-bedroom apartment features This versatile space is perfect for accommodating extended family or utilizing as a lucrative Airbnb or rental. The options are endless, with huge potential for additional income is effortlessly within your grasp For those seeking a taste of rural living, this property offers four fully fenced paddocks, providing a home for horses, or livestock Adding to the allure of this remarkable property is 3 94 hectares of sauvignon blanc in its prime with a favorable one year rolling grape supply agreement submitting a further income stream to support this desirable lifestyle with additional plantable land to future proof your earning potential and asset Don't miss the chance to own a lifestyle property that seamlessly combines charm and income Experience the best of Marlborough living at 32 Guernsey Road

Renwick, 32 Guernsey Road

50 Years

THE 1990s started with a busy first year. Pioneer wine grower Bill Walsh built the Highfield winery, while Allan Scott Wines was being established amid the first wave of independent labels. Delegat’s produced its first vintage of Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, while Montana launched Deutz Marlborough Cuvee with the help of the Deutz champagne house; all stock was sold out within weeks. In 1990 Montana won the Marquis de Goulaine Trophy for best Sauvignon Blanc in the world at

A year later, Alan McCorkindale won five national trophies at the Air New Zealand Wine Show for Corbans' Marlborough wines, and Ormond Nurseries set up a root stock venture at the Marlborough Research Centre.

In 1994, Brent and John Marris established the Wither Hills label and Michael Seresin began converting his vineyard to organic practices. At a gala event, then Prime Minister Jim Bolger opened the new Grove Mill winery in the Waihopai Valley.

the International Wine and Spirit Competition in London. Another hallmark of the early 90s was the emergence of an industry to support wine production. This included the robust plastic Wirecare clip developed by Rex BrookeTaylor. Meanwhile Geoff Taylor’s engineering firm was designing and manufacturing rotary fermenters, wine tanks and tipping bins.

In 1991, Babich took its first harvest from contract grower David Pigou in Selmes Road, and NMIT established vineyards to support the viticultural and winemaking courses being planned. Blenheim’s BOS Print produced their first wine bottle labels.

By 1992, Wine Marlborough Limited was being formed as the trading company for Marlborough’s Winegrowers Association, and the Rose family were building the iconic mudbrick winery that is now a restaurant and tasting room. The same year, Vavasour took three top awards at the Liquorland Royal Easter Wine Awards, sealing the Awatere Valley’s future.

The 1995 vintage was a disaster for Marlborough (see page 12), with too few wineries to handle rapidly deteriorating grapes in a drenched harvest. A Montana advert summed it up, saying “it rained and it rained and it rained”.

However, the vintage proved a merciful one-off and winemaking capacity quickly began to expand to meet increasing production. By the late 1990s, Marlborough’s reputation for producing a range of fine wine was confirmed. The 1998 London International Wine Challenge saw Deutz Marlborough Cuvee named top sparkling wine, Corban’s Stoneleigh Chardonnay was top white wine, and Hunter’s 1995 Miru Miru méthode traditionelle won a trophy for a wine in its first year of production.

By 1999, demand for Marlborough wine – and the land to grow it — was increasing. Villa Maria’s new winery at Fairhall was open and, after years of denying any interest, Montana began buying land in the Awatere Valley.

Phil and Chris Rose in 1991, when their first vintage of Wairau River Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc proved a winner.

This month marks 50 years since the first vines were planted to launch the Marlborough wine industry. BRENDON BURNS looks at the 1990s when the region’s reputation was sealed despite a major climatic blip.

By the late 1990s, Marlborough’s reputation for producing a range of fine wine was confirmed.

A very long weekend in Marlborough BRENDON BURNS

In February 1990, Wellington-based public relations whizz Mike Veal and his wife Judy came for a weekend in Marlborough. They were here to visit friends and enjoy the Marlborough Wine Festival, then saw an advert for a partly producing 16-hectare vineyard, along with a half-completed home. “We decided to go for it and put in an offer and all of a sudden, we were in the wine business,” Mike says.

With no grape income for three years, he continued his consulting business in Wellington, where he had earlier helped launch Lotto. “Tuesday to Thursday in a suit, then driving a tractor developing and planting the land and finishing the house.”

Finding an initial home for the fruit proved easy, as Marlborough was becoming famous for its Sauvignon Blanc. “To add value to our product we then decided to produce wine and develop a label – Hawkesbridge.”

Tim Finn from Neudorf in Nelson made their wine, while London’s Berry Bros. & Rudd become distributors. “We’d make an annual visit to London and also visit Europe, including Paris where I had been born and raised in war years. My mother was French, my father English.”

Mike joined Marlborough Grapegrowers and later became Chair of Marlborough Winemakers and Wine Marlborough. “We organised the inaugural Bragato conference and Silver Secateurs Competition in Blenheim.” He also chaired the then loss-making Wine & Food Festival in the late 1990s, bringing in Sigrun Steinhagen to help turn it around.

Hawkesbridge was producing Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir wines, but grapes were in short supply. “After many requests, in 2002 we received an offer we could not refuse and sold Hawkesbridge to Matua, owned by Fosters of Australia.” The couple retired for three years then bought Willowbank on SH63, with 12ha in production and a small house they called Chateau Shed. “We contract-grew grapes for 10 years before deciding the heady wine days were over for us and at age 80, I retired once again,” Mike says. He doubts he and Judy could have had a better life if they’d won the Lotto he helped launch.

Viva la difference. Judy and Mike Veal at the Le Brun tent in 1995.

A deluge amid the decades

Lawson’s Dry Hills was one of the few wineries in Marlborough when it opened in time for the rain-besieged 1995 vintage. Its owners Barbara and Ross Lawson, who planted Gewürztraminer on Alabama Road in 1981, had put in decades of hard work to get to this point. But that wet vintage took the cake, Barbara says. “We’d planned to do 100 tonnes. Suddenly we had winemakers from all over New Zealand here.”

The winery’s single small press was operating 24/7 as companies that typically sent fruit to the North Island, reacted to the onset of rot. “We were one of the very few wineries in Marlborough. We had a few small tanks with our own grapes to process,” Barbara says, recalling other winemakers putting grapes through the crusher and cold settling them in tankers. She helped manage the onslaught while working fulltime as a theatre nurse at Wairau Hospital. It was there that she’d met Ross in 1963, when she was an 18-year-old nurse and he was wheeled in with injuries caused after a few drinks. They married in 1965, then moved to outback Australia, where Ross was shearing, to live in a caravan with the first of their three children. In the late 1960s they bought 4.4 hectares of land on Alabama Rd and built their home, block by block, largely funded by possums Ross had trapped. Barbara helped clean the skins. “I smelt like a possum too.”

Later, Ross became a skilled swimming pool installer, and in 1981 they took the advice of Penfolds viticulturist Steve Carter and planted Gewürztraminer. “We’d never heard of it – couldn’t even pronounce the name.” Another viticulturist told them it’d never be anything, but Merlen winemaker Almuth Lorenz was thrilled with the quality and took it all. In 1992, the first Lawson’s Dry Hills vintage was made by Claire Allan, with Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürztraminer. “Every time the Gewürzt won a gold medal, we waved it in the face of the doubting viticulturist,” Barbara says.

Her work at Wairau Hospital had also led to her meeting winemaker Mike Just, on a hospital trolley awaiting tendon surgery, and in 1996 he joined the winery team. Around that time, Barbara stepped back from fulltime nursing, having long juggled career, family and the expanding winery, although she continued part-time and casual in theatre until 2005. By the early 1990s, they had started exporting to the United Kingdom. Their shared Irish ancestry led them on a holiday to Ireland, and seeing Cloudy Bay in a Galway wine shop, they met the importer. Irish and other buyers liked the Lawson’s style, Barbara says. “We were just Kiwis. We weren’t highfalutin types. We just talked about what we had created and New Zealand.”

Back home, she marketed the wines and prepared food for sale at the winery, where Heidi and Chris Gibb also ran a restaurant for several summers. In the mid-1990s, Kiwi businessman Tim Evill invested in Blenheim’s Hotel d’Urville and met the Lawsons. “We put it to him that what we needed was more vineyards,” Barbara says.

Tim and his wife Pauline’s investment funded vineyards in Marshlands and the Waihopai Valley. With them came Sion Barnsley as Business Manager, Marcus Wright as winemaker, and trained viticulture staff to replace the self-taught Ross, who died in 2009. Barbara, who sold her remaining shares to the Evills in 2014, now divides her time between Blenheim and Rarotonga. Older Lawson Dry Hills wines remain her favourite; none, however from the 1995 vintage .

Barbara and Ross Lawson

“We’d planned to do 100 tonnes. Suddenly we had winemakers from all over New Zealand here.”

Barbara Lawson

Dripline Recycling Programme

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Purchase Rivulis industry leading dripline for your replacement programme and receive a pre-paid voucher* to recycle any brand of dripline at Future Post’s facility in Blenheim. Install 100% recycled Future Posts back on your vineyard to fully close the loop while also improving your time and cost saving measures by utilising an extremely durable, CCA free post.

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DDI vineyard: Diana Jamieson 021 447 725

* Conditions apply. Please ask your local irrigation reseller for further details.

Winning Ways

Bringing harmony to winemaking

FRESHLY RETURNED from a whirlwind trip to London to collect the prestigious International Wine Challenge’s White Winemaker of the Year Trophy 2023, Natalie Christensen is feeling surprisingly grounded. “Being in London and receiving the award was exciting,” says the Yealands Estate winemaker. “But it wasn’t until I checked my phone and saw all of the messages from friends and colleagues around the world…Only then did it start sinking in”.

Natalie was particularly touched to hear that back home in Marlborough, the Yealands team had gathered to watch the awards live at 5am. “What’s unusual about this award is it goes to an individual based on the scores achieved across the different wines entered,” she explains. As Yealands won 12 medals across varietals, the trophy is a relection of her and her team’s work. “There are a lot of people involved in making these wines, it’s definitely not just me… this is great for the whole team.”

It's just the third time a New Zealander has won the award, and Natalie believes it can only be good for the profile of New Zealand wines, as well as Marlborough and Yealands. “Marlborough is a region to take notice of and celebrate.”

While the winemaker is always keen to look to the next thing, right now she’s happy to enjoy the moment as recognition they’re on the right path. “We have a special vineyard at Seaview that creates some exceptional wines.

We’ve always felt that way, but it’s wonderful to get confirmation of that on the global stage.”

Perhaps the only downside to her continued success is the double bass that’s gathering dust as she struggles to find the time to play it. Growing up in Christchurch,

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The wealth of the sea to soil & plant

Natalie Christensen.

LORRAINE CARRYER

“There are a lot of creative and interesting characters in this industry; it’s a very vibrant field.”

Natalie Christensen

Natalie wanted to be a composer for New Zealand films, so undertook a degree in music. Her studies piqued an interest in the healing properties of music, and she tilted her course towards music therapy.

With another inspired pivot, she completed a Master of Science in industrial psychology, then began a short-lived stint in human resources, before realising, “I wanted to be creating something, rather than supporting”.

Finding her best-laid career plans had slightly unravelled, Natalie took a serendipitous approach and found herself working a vintage at Saint Clair Winery in 2006. Instantly captivated, even the steel-capped gumboots were comfortable for the former volunteer firefighter. “I just loved everything about my first vintage.” Some 17 years after that prelude, and having added a degree in oenology, there’s been no looking back.

Natalie sees winemaking as a mix of art and science. “I feel like I bring both elements into my winemaking. There are a lot of creative and interesting characters in this industry; it’s a very vibrant field.” An upside of working for a larger winery such as Yealands, is the freedom she has to experiment with blending to create what she wants across the different varietals, she says. “For instance, if your fruit hasn’t behaved how you expected in the winery, you have other options to explore.”

When it comes to a changing climate, Natalie is confident technology will help to mitigate some of the challenges in wine. Climate change may also lead to favouring certain varietals, such as Albariño, which is naturally highly acidic with thicker skins, favouring a coastal and damper climate. “One of the hallmarks of the Seaview vineyard is the subtle saltiness we get, which is a classic quality of a good Galician Albariño, so I feel we have synergies here with its homeland of Rias Biaxas.” While there seems no slowdown in the global demand for Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, Natalie sees potential for another popular white such as Albariño to gain ground.

A combination of wine judging events, conferences, being part of the team behind the Pinot Boot Camp, and her involvement in Women in Wine all create opportunities for Natalie’s strong push towards engagement with the wider industry, and she emphasises its collegial nature in New Zealand. Forthcoming wine competitions she is to judge this year include the New World Wine Awards and The National Wine Awards of Aotearoa.

Despite the lack of time to play her double bass, she has experimented with playing tonal music to Pinot Noir ageing in the barrel hall. “Results were inconclusive, so I might have to repeat it some time,” Natalie laughs. As a well-blended individual, when she’s not at work she loves getting out in nature and exploring the Great Walks, and is also very partial to mixing cocktails and dining out. Success to Natalie – and what she feels most proud of – is having a happy thriving team, who enjoy creating something together.

Care Package

Semi-retired, fully committed

KAT PICKFORD

AFTER A long working life with jobs in banking, healthcare support and housing, Ruth Gill has discovered her most fulfilling role yet – providing care and support to overseas workers in Marlborough.

The 67-year-old is one of a group of semi-retired people employed by the Marlborough vineyard management and labour supply company Hortus, as part of its pastoral care programme for international workers employed through the Recognised Seasonal Employer (RSE) scheme.

As a pastoral care worker, Ruth is responsible for helping RSE workers feel welcome and settle into the community, while ensuring they have all the knowledge, support and supplies they need to adjust to life in New Zealand. “Many RSE workers have only very basic housing back home, with no running water or electricity - they may bathe and wash their clothes in a creek and have very limited access to healthcare,” Ruth says. “So when they

arrive in New Zealand - what we think of as a normal house, with a kitchen, flushing toilet and shower - is very foreign to them. They need to learn how it all works and how to take care of a modern home.”

Ruth also helps them open bank accounts and provides support when they visit the dentist, doctor, and bank, while teaching them some of the social and cultural norms and expectations in New Zealand that may differ from their home countries.

“It may sound cheesy or like some sort of corporate spin, but I genuinely feel like I’m part of the family.”

Ruth Gill

Ruth Gill with Gospel Tiumalu Vela, Lusi Sau and Afatia Aleki

The other side of her work is providing care and support to people when they are struggling with homesickness, personal crises, or illness. “They call me māmā,” Ruth jokes. “Some of these guys are only young and they’re away from their families for the first time. There are often tears and I’m there for them with a hug and to listen.”

Ruth, who has been in the role for just over a year, says she’s surprised at the deep connections formed. “It’s one of the best jobs I’ve ever had,” Ruth says. “It’s completely unexpected, I’ve never felt so connected to a job or to the people I work with. It may sound cheesy or like some sort of corporate spin, but I genuinely feel like I’m part of the family.”

Hortus People and Culture Manager Lucy Maclean says while the company has always had a diverse workforce, there is now a more conscious focus on increasing diversity and inclusivity.

“In the past few years we’ve been more creative, looking at how we recruit, in particular getting the word out to people who are not traditionally online,” Lucy says. “We’ve also been adapting roles to suit different people, such as we have done with our pastoral care team. They may be past retirement age, but they still want to work - just not necessarily full time, so it’s been a simple case of shaping the role to fit.”

New Zealand Ethical Employers chief executive Tanya Pouwhare says with a lifetime of work experience behind

them, semi-retired people have a lot to offer. “Many semiretired people have lived in the same community for a long time. They possess a lot of local knowledge about the region and they often have a strong work ethic and a good understanding of work dynamics, making them reliable and efficient,” Tanya says. “They often have a wealth of knowledge and experience that they can share, transferring valuable skills.”

Ruth’s work history as a banker, ACC case manager and property manager has indeed been very handy, she says. “I like helping people, it’s in my nature to be helpful and kind to people, and with all my work experience it’s a great fit for me.”

They may be past retirement age, but they still want to work - just not necessarily full time, so it’s been a simple case of shaping the role to fit.”

Lucy Maclean

Stellar Sauvignon

Marlborough

Blanc driving success

MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON Blanc accounted for more than 75% of New Zealand’s $2.4 billion in wine exports in the past year, thanks to burgeoning demand, rising value, and replenishment of empty supply lines.

The United States soaked up $870 million of New Zealand wine’s exports, up 30% on the previous year, driven largely by Sauvignon Blanc. While part of that growth was down to “pipeline filling” following the light 2021 vintage, it also indicated "really strong growth", New Zealand Winegrowers Chief Executive Philip Gregan told attendees at the Grape Days event in Marlborough in July. At current trends the US alone could reach the billion-dollar mark in "the not-too-distant-future", he said.

And the success wasn’t just a US story. “In virtually every market we look at New Zealand is second on pricing to France, and the France number of course includes Champagne,” Philip told attendees. “New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc in the United Kingdom is selling on average at a 35% higher price in retail than Sauvignon Blancs from other countries, so there’s a significant premium there for our most important variety in one of our most important markets. And we see similar trends in other markets as well.”

Marlborough contributed more than $1.8b of the exports to May 2023, with Sauvignon Blanc making up 89% of the volume in the past year, and Marlborough contributing 90% of total Sauvignon Blanc production. “In terms of recognition of brand-New Zealand wine, you couldn’t have asked for anything better,” says Philip, a month before the 50th anniversary of Montana’s first vineyard planting in Marlborough, and 49 years after Ross Spence produced New Zealand’s first commercial Sauvignon Blanc. “Everybody needs to be very proud of what Sauvignon Blanc and Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has done.”

A bumper 2022 crop assisted in the “pipeline filling” of the past year, and the lower 2023 yields will help balance

out supply and demand, says Philip. New Zealand’s total harvest for the last vintage was 501,000 tonnes, down 6% on the 2022 harvest, and Marlborough contributed 393,865 tonnes of that crop, down 5% on 2022. The national Sauvignon Blanc take was 378,300 tonnes, with 92% of that – 349,056 tonnes – from Marlborough.

New Zealand vineyard report

• Total producing area 41,860ha (1% up on 2022)

• Marlborough producing area 29,654ha (71% of national total)

• Total Sauvignon Blanc area 27,084ha (65% of New Zealand’s total producing area)

• Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc area 24,222ha (58% of the total production area)

2023 vintage report

• New Zealand total Sauvignon Blanc production 378,300 tonnes

• Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc production 349,056 tonnes (92% of total)

• New Zealand total production 501,000 tonnes

• Marlborough total production 393,865 tonnes (81.3% of total)

Whitehaven Wines

“Everybody needs to be very proud of what Sauvignon Blanc and Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has done.”

Philip Gregan

Sauvignon

SOPHIE PREECE

Philip says the supply demand balance “is looking pretty positive” with a strong sales year and slightly smaller vintage. “Take the two things together that’s a pretty good position to be in. Most people were wanting a slightly smaller vintage and that’s certainly what occurred.” He also notes that bottling and shipping timelines will be more typical this year, after last year’s urgency to get wine on the water.

Philip says Sauvignon Blanc’s success doesn’t diminish other “outstanding” wines produced throughout New

In celebration of Sauvignon

It is extremely rare to have a wine region synonymous with a varietal, says Hunter’s Wines winemaker James Macdonald. “It’s only happened to a few wine regions of the world, like Chardonnay and Pinot from Burgundy, or Cabernet and Merlot from Bordeaux. Sauvignon Blanc comes from Marlborough. It’s so special and it’s so rare in the wine world, that we really do have to thank our lucky stars.”

But the Marlborough Winegrowers director says there are consequences of that stellar success story, including the increasing challenge of sourcing other varieties in Marlborough, where Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines are steadily being consumed by the sea of Sauvignon. Hunter’s Wines has a successful Miru Miru

Zealand. “It’s not an either-or thing.” Having the export mix dominated by Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc does represent some risk, he adds. “If we were just sitting on our hands and not promoting other varieties then I think there could be some concern. But there is no sign in the market that Sauvignon Blanc is losing its place, so we run with that but also work very hard on other varieties. That’s important.”

While exports were very strong, domestic sales have not rebounded. The return of overseas visitors had made a mark, but the hospitality industry was struggling with labour shortages and increasing costs, with impact on wine sales. In longer term trends, consumption of wine per capita is down 20% since 2015, Philip says, noting several factors including increasing regulations and “major demographic changes”. The domestic market slump was particularly painful for around 300 wineries who sell solely on the domestic market. “It’s not as buoyant as obviously we would hope.”

Meanwhile wine companies are grappling with inflation at a near-30-year high, and vineyard costs rising faster than inflation. There is also increasing uncertainty in the economic conditions of global markets, including upcoming tax changes in the UK. However Philip notes that in the past two decades New Zealand wine has performed “really well” amid economic ups and downs. ”Hopefully that continues over the next 12 months.”

sparkling wine programme in a growth category, but has lost Chardonnay contracts as growers replace aging vines with Sauvignon. In response, the company is pulling out some of its own Sauvignon Blanc blocks to ensure a secure supply of Chardonnay for bubbles. There is also a “huge amount” of Pinot Noir being removed, James says. “So we expect in the future Pinot Noir will become scarce as well, as the behemoth of Sauvignon Blanc rolls on.”

On the flipside, Sauvignon Blanc makes for great business, “easily” comprising 85% of Hunter’s portfolio, with potential to be 100% if they were not committed to a broader range. “Any approaches we get from our export markets is only for Sauvignon Blanc now. It’s very rare for people to tag Pinot Noir or Chardonnay on an order. Most of our containers leaving are 100% Sauvignon Blanc.”

“It’s so special and it’s so rare in the wine world, that we really do have to thank our lucky stars.”

James Macdonald

Dam Sure

Mitigating the risk of Marlborough dams

VINEYARD OWNERS in Marlborough are being urged to assess and audit the potential risks of their dams before new regulations roll out. “Dams require continuous maintenance throughout their life,” Marlborough District Council senior building control officer Dhyanom Gala says. “If that’s not being achieved, they can pose considerable risk.”

From May 13, 2024, any dams that are 4 metres or higher and store 20,000m3 of water or more, or are 1m or higher and store 40,000m3 of water or more, will need to be classified under the Dam Safety [Building (Dam Safety) Regulations 2022] which set out minimum requirements and Potential Impact Classifications (PIC).

Dhyanom says affected dam owners will have just three months from that date, or from the date of commission of a new dam, to confirm any potential risks in the case of dam failure, have their PIC audited and certified by an engineer registered for that work, and submit their information to council.

At the time of writing there were just eight registered engineers able to do the work, with none in Marlborough. Dhyanom says others with “many years of dam experience” are likely to become registered soon, but hopes vineyard operators will begin the process early, and not be pressed for time in 2024.

MDC Building Control Officer Gemma Riley says dam owners will be required to reassess their PIC every five years, with the low, medium and high-risk classifications determined by the dam itself, and also by the surrounding environment. For example, a dam deemed low risk in 2024 might be reclassified as medium risk in 2029 because of a residential development within the surrounding area. “If you have more potential impacts, you have more responsibilities.”

She notes that council is working to help dam owners, and has been sending letters to alert them to the process, while also seeking to determine which of the waterbodies

identified by aerial photography are likely to require classification. “We are not here to police. We want to hold their hand and guide them into the right direction,” adds Dhyanom.

Dams that are 4m high and 20,000m3 already need building consent, and many dams are built to national dam building guidelines and will have little work to do to meet the regulations. But older dams, and those not captured by the building consent process – such as those that are 1m high and 40,000m3 – may have more work to do, he says.

New Zealand has been one of the few OECD countries without a consistent, national-level scheme to ensure ongoing maintenance and inspection of dams, and Dhyanom and Gemma say the work is geared towards protecting people, infrastructure and operations. Cyclone Gabrielle resulted in dam breaches in Hawke’s Bay earlier this year, with devastating consequences for some vineyards.

Babich Wines Marlborough viticultural manager David Bullivant has had the new regulations on his radar for some time, and is aware of a number of dams that will need to be changed or upgraded. He says there’s no major work required, but the company wanted to get ahead of the deadline, and has an engineer considering any required changes. One of the “interesting aspects” is that flaxes and native species planted around some dams will need to be removed, “because they see it as a weakening of the wall structure”.

While adding another layer of auditing, on top of Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand and the upcoming Freshwater Farm Plans, David can see the need for national dam regulations, noting that a number of reservoirs were damaged by the 2016 Kaikōura earthquake, in some cases putting roads and railways lines at risk. “So not only to life but infrastructure as well.”

A dam at Babich Wine’s Headwaters vineyard

“If you have more potential impacts, you have more responsibilities.”

Gemma Riley

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REROUTING HIS career from restaurant to vineyard has given Zac Howell insights he never expected. “I probably have more respect now for wine quality than I did,” says Marlborough’s Young Viticulturist of the Year. “There’s a lot more that goes into making a good bottle of wine than what you realise.”

Zac, who won the regional competition last month and goes on to the National Final on August 30, became focused on New Zealand wine while managing a restaurant in Hamilton. He moved to Marlborough in 2020, studying wine and viticulture while working his way up from tractor driving, via some winery work at Villa Maria, to his current role at Indevin, delving into planning and logistics. “I have really enjoyed the journey I have been on,” says Zac, who is his final year of studies in Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology’s Bachelor of Viticulture and Winemaking. “It’s been quite cool to see such a cross section, and with a company like Villa and Indevin, you get to see a really broad range.”

The July competition was Zac’s third attempt at the regional title, and he says each one has highlighted areas he could improve on, with the latest competition motivating him to upgrade his studies in pest and disease work, as well as vine nutrition. He is also using his day-to-day work to prepare for the national competition, including ensuring basic skills like tying a wire knot and driving a tractor are up to scratch. Working in a company as large as Indevin helps

Young Viticulturist

him learn, he says. “In a company of this scale, there are so many people and so much knowledge, and a lot of people are willing to share that if you ask questions. So you have a lot of resource to draw on.”

There were eight contestants in the Marlborough regional competition, who were tested with viticultural questions and challenges including pruning, irrigation, trellising, nutrition, and an interview. Laura Hammond from Cloudy Bay came second and Liv Bishop from Delegat came third.

The event also includes the BioStart Hortisports race, which attracted a large crowd from the local wine industry, and an awards dinner, at which contestants delivered speeches on a wide range of wine industry topics. To read more about Zac, check out the March 22 Winepress

Young vit’s move from hospo to midrow

SOPHIE PREECE

“In a company of this scale, there are so many people and so much knowledge, and a lot of people are willing to share that if you ask questions.”

Zac Howell

Zac Howell in the BioStart Hortisports. Photo: Richard Briggs

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Generation Y-ine

A wine career brewing in Marlborough

THE INDUSTRY saying “it takes a lot of beer to make good wine” rings truer for Mengran “Joyce” Zhu than most. Born in the Chinese city of QingDao, home of the hugely popular pale lager Tsingtao, the 28-year-old grew up surrounded by a robust beer drinking culture.

It wasn’t until she landed in Christchurch as an international student aged 18, that Joyce learned about wine and New Zealand’s reputation as a world class producer of new world Sauvignon Blanc. “Where I grew up all my family and friends were drinking beer exclusively,” Joyce says. “Wine was something pretty new. I didn’t know much about it, so I was immediately fascinated. As a career the industry sounded like a lot of fun.”

Joyce embarked on a three-year bachelor’s degree in Viticulture and Oenology through Lincoln University in 2013, picking up her first job in the wine industry with Pernod Ricard as a vintage cellar hand in 2016. The following summer she worked in the cellar door, then picked up a job as a lab technician for vintage 2017. In 2018 Joyce went back to university to study a research master’s degree of Applied Science in Viticulture and Oenology.

Academic learning is highly valued in China, Joyce says. Her grandparents work in university and research institutes and her parents are “very ambitious” for their only daughter, who was born during China’s one-child policy, which ran from 1980-2016. After completing her research project in 2020, Joyce’s plans to gain some international wine experience were put on hold thanks to the pandemic, so she picked up a vintage job in the lab at Indevin, then landed a full-time position at Villa Maria as a senior lab technician later that year.

Almost three years on, Joyce is excited her travel plans are finally coming to fruition this month, with a threemonth stint in a small boutique winery in Oregon. “If you look at my resumé, I’ve worked at large scale wineries in niche roles, so I’m really excited to work for a smaller producer where I will be hands on in everything from the fruit receival area right through to the bottling line.”

While it took a while for Joyce to get used to the slower pace of life in New Zealand - Christchurch was akin to “a giant farm” compared to the booming metropolis she grew up in - she can see herself based in Marlborough for a while yet. “Life here is very different to QingDao where everyone is working all the time and very busy. But now I’m totally into it here, I love the lifestyle, there’s so much to do outside of work like hiking and diving, it’s such a beautiful place.”

While Joyce still loves the beer of her hometown, she is determined to make her mark as a winemaker and sees Marlborough as a key place to hone her skills.

“The industry is expanding, you can see it in all the new plantings and the whole industry is blooming thanks to the popularity of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, which is my absolute favourite to drink, it’s so zingy and fresh and herbaceous. I’m looking forward to the next few years and seeing where all my combined experiences take me.”

KAT PICKFORD

“Life here is very different to QingDao where everyone is working all the time and very busy.”

Joyce Zhu

Mengran “Joyce” Zhu

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In contrast CCA treated wooden vineyards posts leach contaminants into ground water and are very hard to dispose of. They’re heavy to handle, damage easily and often bend and break under pressure in the vineyard. A recent new style of vineyard post is untested, made from alternative product sources and may not be resilient to local conditions. These posts could be performing poorly in vineyards.

In the Pipeline

THE NATIONAL Policy Statement for Indigenous Biodiversity was gazetted on July 7 this year, and came into force on August 4. This was accompanied by a release of a discussion paper on creating a biodiversity credit system. The pace of regulatory change is rapid, and this is yet another in a long list of changes.

The National Policy Statement for Indigenous Biodiversity (NPS-IB) is a policy statement, so there will be no immediate changes to rules in the District Plan. While regional councils must give effect to the NPS as soon as reasonably practicable, in practical terms, this means giving effect to some parts of the NPS-IB within five years, some parts within eight years and some parts within 10 years. At least in the short term, this NPS will have little effect on existing operations where a resource consent is not currently required.

Where resource consents are required, this policy statement will be immediately relevant. This may include applications for consent to take water for irrigation or converting pasture to vineyards. In these cases, an assessment against the NPS will likely be required. The policy statement applies to the terrestrial environment. Where land is covered by water, other policy statements apply.

Quentin Davies

If there is a conflict between this NPS-IB and the National Policy Statement for Freshwater Management, then the latter will prevail. However, the NPS-IB will have implications for rare or threatened nesting birds in riverbeds, for example.

General Principles

The overall objective of the policy statement is “to maintain indigenous biodiversity across Aotearoa New Zealand so that there is at least no overall loss of indigenous biodiversity” after August 4, 2023. That objective is to be achieved through a series of policies relating to tangata whenua, the stewardship of landowners, people and community, the protection and restoration of indigenous biodiversity, and providing for the social, economic and cultural wellbeing of people and communities now and into the future.

The general direction of travel is in favour of greater regulation. That is particularly so in areas to be identified as Significant Natural Areas (SNAs). Alongside that approach will be an opportunity to offset or compensate for negative effects in certain circumstances. Notably, offsetting of

Prophet’s Rock

As part of a series of water updates, resource management expert QUENTIN DAVIES looks at Indigenous Biodiversity and the new regulatory ecosystem.

“Initially, effects will be felt in respect of river margins and land redevelopment from pasture to vineyard.”

compensation is only required when an activity has a more than minor residual adverse effect. A lot will turn on whether the residual adverse effects of an activity are “minor”. The proposal for a biodiversity credit system may also provide a route to obtaining consent. That system is some years away from being implemented.

Significant Natural Areas

The NPS sets out a standard definition for SNA to be across the country, with the criteria set out in Appendix 1. An area qualifies as an SNA if it meets any one of the attributes for the following four criteria:

a) Representativeness;

b) Diversity and pattern;

c) Rarity and distinctiveness; and

d) Ecological context.

On one reading of the criteria, it is relatively easy for indigenous vegetation to qualify: an area is an SNA, for example, if it provides habitat for an indigenous species that is classified as threatened or at risk (declining). However, the definition of habitat excludes built structures. Consequently, the Kārearea (New Zealand falcon, at risk (declining)) feeding in a vineyard would not make the vineyard an SNA. By contrast, in the case of the Pohowera (banded dotterel, at risk (declining)), the Tarāpuka (blackbilled gull, at risk (declining)), and the Tarapirohe (blackfronted tern, nationally endangered), any habitat of those species are likely to be SNAs and so put further constraints on instream work necessary to take water for irrigation.

Where indigenous vegetation has been reduced to less than 20% of its pre-human extent in the ecological district, region or land environment, remaining indigenous vegetation may qualify as an SNA. Marlborough’s lowland plains have less than 10% of indigenous cover left.

Marlborough has had a SNA project underway since 2020. A number of landowners have voluntarily put their property through an ecological survey. In return they have received free advice and in some circumstances assistance from the council. The results of the programme have been monitored and in general biodiversity at those sites has been maintained or improved.

The criteria previously applied by council and the criteria now set out in the NPS-IB are different. Sites which were previously rejected might now be included. The NPS contains a specific direction to work with landowners where possible and that the council’s powers to compulsorily enter land to conduct surveys is to only be used as a last resort.

The consequences of being in an SNA are that the location will be public and mapped in the plan and, with limited exceptions, activities which have an adverse effect on the ecosystem in those SNAs will need to be avoided. Specifically in terms of pasture, in some circumstances, the maintenance of improved pasture may continue.

In many ways, the restrictions in the NPS are no different from current legal restrictions in Marlborough. The Marlborough Environment Plan currently has provisions that protect areas that have been identified as SNAs and

areas which would meet the criteria of SNAs. In addition, the Wildlife Act 1956 prohibits or restricts activities in the vicinity of many threatened or at risk species. The intention of the NPS is to standardise the regulatory regime throughout the country. Nonetheless, landowners who are not expecting SNAs and consequent restrictions to be placed on their land will find the regulations challenging.

Conclusion

The NPS-IB is, for a few years, unlikely to have a significant effect on the majority of vineyard operations. Initially, effects will be felt in respect of river margins and land redevelopment from pasture to vineyard. In time, however, additional regulation will apply. There is a possibility that the cost of that regulation will be offset by some form of biodiversity credit system. Consultation on that proposal closes in November 2023.

This is a situation where landowners should be preparing for the regulation to come. A landowner who knows the likely outcome of an SNA assessment can plan for any new expenditure that is required and will be in a better position to discuss their situation with Council once the mandated mapping programme starts in earnest.

Quentin Davies is a partner at Gascoigne Wicks and has represented wine industry participants in numerous Court and Council hearings. He will contribute a series of columns outlining regulatory changes on the horizon. The views are his own and are not a substitute for independent legal advice.

Biosecurity Watch

Identification and Symptoms of Downy Mildew

KERRIE HOPKINS

DOWNY MILDEW is a disease of grapevine that occurs when conditions are warm and frequently wet during spring and summer. Downy mildew is caused by the oomycete pathogen Plasmopara viticola, which looks like a fungus and produces spores but is a closer relative to marine algae. The disease is spread by spores produced on the underside of the infected leaves and infects stomata. Downy mildew grows internally and the primary infection can be quite subtle and difficult to spot. The important infection periods are from EL-27 through to EL-36.

Downy mildew requires a strict set of conditions for primary infection: at least 10mm of rain; temperatures greater than 10C; over a 24-hour period. Early in the infection cycle, lesions can appear on any of the green parts of the vine, particularly leaves and young berries. When they first appear, they look dark and shiny, like a bruise or ‘oil spot,’ before becoming yellow and round. After damp nights, white sporulation becomes visible underneath the lesions. Young berries are very susceptible and will turn a grey colour if infected. As they mature, they become more resistant, although they can still be infected via the pedicels. Infected berries do not soften and drop easily.

The secondary infection can be severe. A downy mildew infection can be devastating if an effective control program is not put in place. It attacks all green parts of the vine and

can cause severe crop loss, even defoliation, in the worst cases.

Downy mildew survives in the soil in oospores, microscopic spores formed in infected leaves toward the end of the previous growing season. The oospores are drought and temperature resistant and can survive dormant in the soil for many seasons. Leaves of an infected plant containing oospores fall to the ground under the vines in

The disease is spread by spores produced on the underside of the infected leaves and infects stomata.

autumn. In late winter and spring, they will germinate given the right weather conditions.

Management

Site selection and canopy management practices that promote rapid drying of leaves, inflorescences, and fruit clusters help to limit the development and spread of a downy mildew infection. Mulches can help prevent the movement of spores from soil to the vines, as can elimination of low-lying basal shoots from the vine trunks. Monitoring the weather for upcoming infection conditions (frequent rain, warm temperatures, and high humidity) is good practice. If using pre-infection fungicides, they are best applied as close as possible before ideal infection conditions arrive to protect new growth. If using post-infection fungicides, be aware they will not eradicate the disease from the vineyard. They are best applied as soon as possible after the infection has occurred, if possible before oil spots appear. Good control of primary infection will prevent the risk of secondary infection and reduce the need for more sprays. Early prevention is critical as there are limited options for control of late-season infection. Apply protectants at first sight of infection and with sufficient frequency to interrupt the life cycle of the disease, which is six to seven days. If the disease is present and infection conditions persist, repeat application frequently to protect growing leaves and fruit. Spores can also be transmitted by tools or hands that have come into

contact with infected plants and are not sterilized before moving to a healthy plant.

If you are interested in learning more about how to identify and manage downy mildew, come along to Marlborough Spray Days on 28th, 29th and 30th August.

(www.nzwine.com/members/events/workshops/spray-days/)

A downy mildew infection can be devastating if an effective control program is not put in place.

Industry News

Wine Marlborough advocacy update

NICCI ARMOUR

Kei puta te Wairau and long may it continue to shine during a much more amenable pruning season than previous years. Pruning is well underway and there are fewer major challenges for growers and the Recognise Seasonal Employer scheme (RSE) employers and local businesses who supply 95% of Marlborough’s vineyard labour in winter.

Growers should be aware that the review of the RSE scheme is still underway, albeit with a delayed timeframe due to ministerial changes. High level principles of the RSE review should be released this month, followed by a staged implementation phase. We will hear more at the Marlborough Labour Governance Group meeting where Marlborough’s growers are represented by Stephen Dempster and James Jones. However, it would be good for growers to touch base with their labour supply contractors to understand more about the review and what that means for them.

Regional consultation on freshwater regulation is ongoing and engagement two, focussing on environmental outcomes, is slated to begin in September. It’s important that our grower and winery members participate in this engagement and that you share your views as businesses and community members. You can find out more on Marlborough District Council’s website here: marlborough.govt.nz/environment/freshwater-management/about-freshwater-management

In collaboration with the council’s Economic Development team, Wine Marlborough has formed an industry-led sustainability group and network, Circular Wine. Circular Wine is supported by a steering committee, and although still in its establishment phase the group has a focus on current industry challenges, long-term sustainability outcomes for the industry and region, and contributing positively to the community. If you would like to find out more or would like to participate in the group/network, please email advocacy@winemarlborough.nz.

Brand new

As Destination Marlborough and the Marlborough District Council develop a brand refresh project for the region, Wine Marlborough is working to align its own branding with the wider regional identity. “We’re excited to be reviewing our brand messaging to celebrate the integral connection between the wines we make, the places they come from, and the people who drive our industry and support our community,” says Wine Marlborough marketing and communications manager Sarah Linklater.

Wine Marlborough has surveyed members and Sarah says there are some clear themes from their responses, including the role of Marlborough’s “hero variety” in the narrative. But the industry is more than Sauvignon Blanc, with other premium wines capturing part of the story. The findings are “that there is more than meets the eye”, with complexity and layers to the narrative of Marlborough wine.

Among those layers is the integral role of innovation in the industry, as well as the pioneering spirit that helped launch it onto the world stage, and the enduring genuine connections withing the community. Wine Marlborough expects to roll out a streamlined, simplified and strengthened branding in the next month, to be used across its current and future activities, including the celebration of Marlborough wine’s 50-year milestone.

TUKU turns five

TUKU, the world’s first collective of indigenous Māori wine producers, marked its fifth anniversary at Tohunga Tūmau, an official Matariki dinner held in Ōtautahi Christchurch on July 13. It was the third year TUKU wines have been served at the event. Made up of award-winning wineries from across Aotearoa New Zealand, TUKU has gone from strength to strength since its official launch in 2018. Founding members Steve Bird (Steve Bird Wines), Hayden Johnston (Kuru Kuru and Tarras Wines), Haysley MacDonald (te Pā Family Vineyards), and Royce McKean (Tiki Wines & Vineyards), are all exporting their wines across the world, with domestic presence as well, and have created a platform through TUKU to tell the stories and significance of indigenous Māori wine producers on the world stage. TUKU is now looking to grow, with inquiries from potential new members with Māori heritage. It is also reaching out to other wine producing regions around the world – starting with Canada – to connect with indigenous winemakers to share knowledge and create an informal network of support and cultural learning.

‘Bridget Glackin, you rock’

Bridget Glackin was an extraordinary woman, devoted to her job, the wine industry, and the wellbeing of others, says Framingham managing director Tom Trolove. “That’s her legacy. The way she treated people.”

From here on in the Framingham winery stage will carry a plaque reading, ‘Bridget Glackin, you rock’, in memory of “an incredibly compassionate person” who changed lives everywhere she went, Tom says of Bridget, who died in an accident in June. “When people met Bridget for the first time it was like they had made a friend for life,” adds winemaker Andrew Brown (Brownie). “She was always completely engaged with what other people were up to and looking for ways of helping other people out.”

Bridget’s role in the wine industry went well beyond Framingham marketing manager, Harvest Concert convenor and Framingham Underground curator, casting a spotlight on pop-up gigs and art exhibitions in a wine cellar beneath the winery. She also championed the industry at large, celebrating companies that were “nailing it”, says Brownie. Her compassionate and collaborative approach meant Bridget was a key member of the Wine & Food Festival committee and Wine Marlborough’s wellbeing group, and was a driving force in the inaugural Marlborough Wine Industry Wellness Week in May. Wine Marlborough advocacy manager Nicci Armour says as soon as she mentioned that concept, Bridget poured her energy, enthusiasm and vigour in, recognising ways it could help individuals and companies alike.

Tom says other people’s wellbeing was a priority for Bridget, and when vintage crews had to be isolated because of Covid-19, she was the one shopping for supplies and dropping off food and care packages, including the likes of candles to lift spirits. “All those small things made a difference to a lot of people.”

Framingham Wines carry a series of rules, with Rule No.1 - Do what you love. When it came to her role at Framingham, that was the Harvest Concert, says Tom. “For me, I think she was happiest when all the hard work was done and the bands were ready and everybody was booked in, and then everyone arrived, and she knew she’d done everything to make a great event.” That extended to the many Underground gigs at Framingham, says Brownie. “Bridg would be the first one there and the last to leave, to make sure everyone was looked after and happy.”

The mother of three could also frequently be found welcoming people to the cellar door, revealing a stash of ice blocks whenever families arrived with kids. She said “yes” to everybody, always going above and beyond, Tom adds. “My biggest challenge was to get Bridget to do less. She wanted to do so much for other people. It was amazing.”

AMW Collection Launch

Appellation Marlborough Wine

(AMW) launched the Appellation Marlborough Wine Annual Collection last year as part of its commitment to promote and celebrate the best wines of Marlborough - in particular its world class Sauvignon Blancs. The collection is selected by a panel of three industry experts through a robust and transparent tasting process, with Jane Skilton MW and Erin Larkin of Wine Advocate magazine to be joined by a third judge. The Appellation Marlborough Wine Annual Collection is selected from all current release certified AMW Sauvignon Blancs, with the top twelve wines making up the final Collection.

Wine Marlborough Podcast – Allan Scott

In the early 1970s, Marlborough was a vastly different place to the vine-swept valleys seen today, instead dominated by sheep farms and crops. In the August edition of the Wine Marlborough Podcast, Allan Scott recounts some of his extraordinary experiences over the past 50 years, as a vineyard worker, pioneering grape grower, and founder of Allan Scott Wines. On a dry and dusty development in August 1973, no one would have thought that Marlborough’s wine industry would be one of the “cornerstones” of New Zealand’s economy, Allan says.

Wine Marlborough general manager Marcus Pickens joins Sophie Preece in the introduction to this podcast, discussing the half century of Marlborough wine, and how the region’s winegrowers, makers and marketers view the industry today.

Hear the podcast at marlboroughwinenz.com/podcast.

Bridget Glackin. Photo Jim Tannock

“That’s her legacy. The way she treated people.”

Tom Trolove

Wine Happenings

A monthly list of events within the New Zealand wine industry.

To have your event included in the September 2023 Wine Happenings, please email details to sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz by August 20. For more information, please go to the website supplied or email sarah@winemarlborough.nz

AUGUST

28-30 Spray Days Marlborough (nzwine.com/members/events/workshops/spray-days)

30 Young Viticulturist National Final, Hawke’s Bay

31 Young Viticulturist National Final Dinner, Hawke’s Bay

SEPTEMBER

13 Tonnellerie de Mercurey Marlborough Young Winemaker Competition 2023 (nzwine.com/en/events/young-winemaker)

Now building, servicing

15 Marlborough Winegrowers board election – voting begins (Marlboroughwinenz.com/about)

OCTOBER

2 Marlborough Winegrowers board election – ballot papers due back by midday

3 Marlborough Winegrowers board election – results notified

5 - 6 Aotearoa New Zealand Chardonnay Symposium, Te Matau-a-Māui Hawke’s Bay (hawkesbaywine.co.nz/symposium)

Jeremy Watts

31 Tonnellerie de Mercurey New Zealand Young Winemaker of the Year National Final. Canterbury

NOVEMBER

1 New Zealand Winegrowers Wine Business Forum, Ōtautahi Christchurch

1 New Zealand Wine, Altogether Unique - A Celebration, Ōtautahi Christchurch (nzwine.com/members/events/workshops)

8 Marlborough Winegrowers AGM

14 New Zealand Wine Centre Scientific Research Conference (mrc.org.nz/nzwc-scientific-research-conference)

17 Marlborough Wine Show Celebration.

Spray Days - August 28-30

Wine Show Celebration - Nov 17 Young Winemaker Competition – Sept 13

Available

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