Vantage Point

Vantage Point

Fifty Years; Fifty Stories

TESSA NICHOLSON

“WHO WOULD have thought that 50 years of viticulture in Marlborough would dominate the landscape, as well as becoming an especially important export product for the New Zealand economy?” That question came from Allan Scott recently, as I was completing my book celebrating the 50th anniversary of grapes being planted by Frank Yukich.

Allan is right, there is no way anyone could have predicted the success Marlborough would make of this venture into wine production. It could all have been a massive failure like the two ‘O’ words that dominated the 80s – olives and ostriches. Well, olives haven’t been a complete failure and Marlborough produces some fantastic olive oil, but olives certainly didn’t deliver economic success the way many had hoped. As for ostriches, the least said about them, the better.

But grapes found a niche in Marlborough’s geography and climate. Despite what at times seemed like insurmountable difficulties (75% of the first plantings died) they took off – thrived even – and produced a wine style never seen in the world before. For that we have Ross Spence to thank. He was the one who pushed and searched for a Sauvignon Blanc vine that he could propagate. He is just one of many pioneers Marlborough has to thank for being in the position it now is.

We are the envy of every other rural small town in New Zealand. I think of places like Dannevirke, Levin, Ashburton, Gore – all rural service towns. What they wouldn’t give to have an industry in their backyard that could provide jobs for the kids, attract visitors and help fund town projects like stadiums and theatres.

As one person said to me recently, what would Blenheim look like without the wine industry? Would we have a new art gallery, or state of the art theatre? Would the town have the need for lawyers, accountants, doctors and dentists? Positions often filled by the children of mature members of the community.

It hasn’t all been a walk in the park. There have been issues along the way, including bird bangers and their invasion of the peace and quiet many longed for. The monoculture is an oft repeated refrain from those who resent grapes taking over from all other land uses. Remember the Stop the Chop campaign in the early 2000s, as trees and shelter belts were removed to allow more room for rows of vines?

There has been for many years a murmuring underbelly in the province about the wine industry. Ironically, many who complained owed their job to wine either directly or indirectly. I don’t want this Vantage Point to sound like an I have found a ‘God moment’, but I do think credit where credit’s due. Wine has made Marlborough and we should acknowledge that and appreciate it at the same time.

My book 50 years; 50 stories does just that, by focusing on the people and events that have helped forge this great industry in our province. On August 24 it will be exactly 50 years since Frank Yukich planted a vine with a silver coin and watered it in with sparkling wine up at Brancott Estate. He stated, probably facetiously, that wines from here will become world famous. Little did he know how famous.

So this month let us all raise a glass to those that helped deliver our world-famous wines and thank Frank for his foresight.

Wine journalist Tessa Nicholson has spent more than 25 years writing about Marlborough’s wine industry. This month sees the release of her book, 50 Years, 50 Stories; Marlborough the region that turned the wine world upside down, covering everything from the first plantings to Sauvignon Blanc’s stellar success, including interviews with some of the region’s most audacious pioneers. The hardest task was in limiting herself to 50 stories, says Tessa. “I know there are so many more out there that also deserve their moment in the sun.”