Winepress - December 2020

Winepress THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF WINE MARLBOROUGH

ISSUE NO. 312/ DECEMBER 2020

SPARKLING STORIES

GROWING RESILIENCE

THINK PINK

LE BRUN LEGACY

Photo: Jim Tannock

wine-marlborough.co.nz

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this issue...

REGULARS

FEATURES

3 4

12

8 26 28 30 32 36

Editorial - Sophie Preece

From the Board and GM Tom Trolove & Marcus Pickens TasmanCrop Met Report Rob Agnew Generation Y-ine - Lee Hall

The 2020 vintage was far more expensive than a typical year, with costs pushed “through the roof” by Covid-19.

18 Covid Snapshot

Cover: Daniel and Adele Le Brun have bought plenty of sparkle to Marlborough over the past 40 years. Photo Jim Tannock

Greater resilience can be learned and practised, says consultant Bradley Hook, who is gleaning insights into the emotional strengths and risks in Marlborough’s wine industry.

16 Costly Vintages

Industry News Wine Happenings

14

14 Growing Resilience

Pioneer Daniel and Adele Le Brun Biosecurity Watch Sophie Badland

The Fizz Bizz It’s the season of celebration, so we look at the growth of Méthode Marlborough, as more companies add some sparkle to their wine portfolio.

18

Rocketing export numbers don’t tell the full story of Marlborough wine companies operating in a Covid-19 world.

In the second part of a series of Snapshots, we talk to Astrolabe, Mahi, Eradus and Ormond Nurseries about their experiences.

Winepress December 2020 / 1

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General Manager: Marcus Pickens 03 577 9299 marcus@winemarlborough.nz Editor: Sophie Preece 027 308 4455 sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz Advertising and Subscriptions: Sarah Linklater 021 704 733 sarah@winemarlborough.nz Wine Marlborough Board: Anna Laugesen Anna.laugesen@xtra.co.nz Ben Ensor ben@mcdonaldtextiles.co.nz Beth Forrest Beth@forrest.co.nz Callum Linklater callum@csviticulture.co.nz Gus Altschwager gus@akwines.net Jamie Marfell Jamie.Marfell@pernod-ricard.com Kirsty Harkness kirsty@mountbase.co.nz Nick Entwistle nick@wairauriverwines.com Tom Trolove (Chair) tom.trolove@framingham.co.nz Tracy Johnston Tracy@dayvinleigh.co.nz Designed by: Blenheim Print Ltd 03 578 1322 Disclaimer: The views and articles that are

expressed and appear in Winepress are entirely those of contributors and in no way reflect the policy of the Marlborough Winegrowers. Any advice given, implied or suggested should be considered on its merits, and no responsibility can be taken for problems arising from the use of such information.

This document is printed on an environmentally responsible paper, produced using elemental chlorine free (EFC), third party pulp from responsible sources, manufactured under the strict ISO 14001 Environmental Management System and is 100% Recyclable.

From the Editor ON THE day this edition was filed, New Zealand Winegrowers announced that New Zealand wine exports had reached $2 billion for the 12 months to October.

It was a target set a decade ago, when the industry body predicted exports would double by 2020, but seemed an unlikely aspiration at the beginning of this year, when Covid-19 threatened the industry.

However, the past year has been startlingly successful for New Zealand wine, as companies with retail channels meet massive demand, and Sauvignon Blanc proves the perfect drop for a pandemic. Clive Jones, chair of New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW), says the milestone reflects the appreciation the world has for our wine. “After the industry withstood the 2020 harvest during Level 4 lockdown, we were planning for a worst-case scenario. But instead what we have seen is that while the world has changed in 2020, what has not changed is people’s love for New Zealand wine.”

Exports rose by 19% for the first four months of the new export year (July to October), compared to the same period in 2019. “We are optimistic that demand for New Zealand wine will continue to grow in the year ahead, and then it will become a question of whether our supply can meet that demand,” says Clive.

NZW chief executive Philip Gregan says the achievement is “testimony to the vision, talent and hard work of our 1,400 business owners and the 20,000 workers in and supporting our sector”.

The impact of Covid-19 on the industry has been mixed, with a range of opportunities and challenges, including the increasing costs of production (page 16) and a potential labour shortage. “Exports to our key international markets have increased beyond expectations this year, but on the other hand, wine businesses that sell predominantly through on-premise and wine tourism have experienced significant challenges,” says Clive. “Encouragingly in the domestic market, we are seeing people continue to buy and support local.”

The Winepress Snapshot series continues this month, looking at the hurdles being faced by three smaller producers with on-premise reliance, and finds them resilient, adaptable and ready to rebound as hospitality recovers. “We’re probably close to what we would have budgeted if Covid hadn’t happened,” says Astrolabe’s Libby Waghorn Levett (page 19). “We have been feeling quite jolly heading into this Christmas.”

Hard on the heels of the $2b announcement came news that Government would create an exception for 2000 seasonal workers next year (page 33), easing some pressure around harvest and pruning.

Since all that good news is worth celebrating, this month’s edition pays homage to Méthode Marlborough, and to Adele and Daniel Le Brun. If ever there was a time to pop open a bottle and contemplate the year we’ve been through, this is surely it.

SOPHIE PREECE

Winepress December 2020 / 3

GROW

From the Chair & General Manager An excerpt from the Marlborough Winegrowers Annual Report Tom Trolove. Photo by Jim Tannock TOM TROLOVE & MARCUS PICKENS

OUR YEAR, like that of most organisations and industries, was shaped significantly by Covid-19.

Throughout 2020, and especially in these challenging and unprecedented times, it was a relief to turn back to our strategic goals as a guide. Our purpose is to ‘proudly stand up for, and build, the reputation of Marlborough’s wine region’.

The strategy was built by the Marlborough Winegrowers Board and Wine Marlborough staff in 2018, facilitated by external consultant Jamie Fitzgerald, of Inspiring Performance. We revisited it in September 2020, in order to check its relevance in this changeable landscape. We received funding to conduct this latest round of work, which was one of a number of grants received this year.

Notably, the strategic goals and objectives remain unchanged and our focus remains steady in the core areas.

During the recent review, the board decided it was timely to reconsider our focus challenges, dropping two outright from the six, as they have either been achieved or wrapped into a business as usual framework.

The four objectives that remain for the organisation to focus on are: 1. Provide leadership for a sustainable winegrowing environment 2. Advance and leverage strong relationships to benefit our members 3. Create and sustain workforce availability 4. Celebrate and share the Marlborough wine story Some of the language used to articulate our objectives should excite our members and demonstrate our focus.

When we promise to celebrate and share the Marlborough wine story, in action this means we will celebrate member behaviour that’s consistent with our region’s strong reputation, and design or enhance events to 4 / Winepress December 2020

help members shine, sell and create relationships, among other objectives.

Under our challenge of create and sustain workforce availability, we will undertake activities such as helping members stay ‘match-fit’ by supporting their resilience and wellbeing, and growing Marlborough’s wine industry workforce by guiding and influencing employers, educators, gatekeepers and government, amongst other objectives.

The four challenge areas and their activities are the focus of board meetings, with outputs reported to ensure a focussed team and board. We see this as essential to enable efficient and streamlined work within the board and the small team at Wine Marlborough.

For any member who wants to learn more about our

“We will undertake activities such as helping members stay ‘matchfit’ by supporting their resilience and wellbeing.”

Tom Trolove purpose and challenges, speak to any member of your board or the Wine Marlborough team.

The Marlborough Winegrowers Association passed an important milestone this year, being 40 years since it was incorporated on 11 June, 1980, a few months after a meeting to discuss forming such an organisation.

We hope those initial members would be proud of where their organisation has led their members. This year there were some solid achievements made that are notable mentions for this report.

Winepress December 2020 / 5

When Covid-19 lockdown loomed, the industry held its breath. And when we were thrown a lifeline of ‘essential status’, our industry problem-solved to implement the special requirements. Meanwhile, the Wine Marlborough organisation worked very closely with New Zealand Winegrowers to design a new operating manual for the immediate period, while problem-solving challenges that were flying at us in every single way.

The team quickly established their home offices and set about writing social media guidelines, checking social media postings, relaying intelligence, speaking with media, communicating with members, appearing in front of parliamentary select committees, mapping out the impact on our seasonal and permanent workforce, and sharing news and developments with our industry, among other things. While the workflow was intense and uncertain, sense was made and order was maintained. I am sure the value of our regional and national bodies was recognised by all at this incredibly stressful and uncertain time.

The Covid-19 situation has again cemented the importance of a strong relationship with our national body and key funder, New Zealand Winegrowers. This is an important relationship that is not without its challenges, given their broad representation and our single-minded purpose and focus. We collaborate well and need to have

“While the workflow was intense and uncertain, sense was made and order was maintained.”

Marcus Pickens

Marcus Pickens. Photo by Richard Briggs

6 / Winepress December 2020

Neal and Judy Ibbotson

communication flows working well at all levels to help problem-solve and help both parties make the best decisions for the wine industry here.

The board farewelled both Stuart Dudley and Jack Glover this year, each having served two three-year terms.

Tracy Johnston stood for her second term as a grower and was joined by Anna Laugesen. Gus Altschwager was elected as the wine company candidate to replace Jack Glover to fill our 10 board member positions.

The board also sought advice about the longstanding practice of having three of our 10 board members as the directors of Wine Marlborough Limited, ultimately concluding that it was fairer that all board members become directors of the trading company, where almost all of the activities reside and staff are employed. The organisation maintains sufficient association liability cover to protect members and the organisation, but there was no disagreement that shared accountability was the best way forward.

We farewelled Harriet Wadworth to a new role in the industry this year, after four and a half years with us. We thank her and wish her well. Sarah Linklater joined the team as our Marketing and Communications Manager the week of the Marlborough Wine & Food Festival, and went straight off the bat with the Covid-19 situation gaining rapid momentum.

We also farewelled Event Manager Georgie Leach on maternity leave, who went on to relocate to Sydney, and have welcomed Loren Coffey into the role. Earlier this year we were also required to consult on and ultimately disestablish the long-standing seasonal labour coordinator role, filled for some time by Nicolette Prendergast, due to declining flows of workers seeking our assistance and more web-based tools available in this space.

The marketing and communications space is an area that we will be focussing on significantly in the coming year, with all our platforms assessed in a special and focussed marketing review. Sarah has already launched a new Wine Marlborough website (winemarlborough.nz) and several of our other websites, such as marlboroughwineshow.co.nz, have been refreshed. Our efforts in social media are being assessed and measured to allow us greater impact in this important space. Winepress continues to provide the most

relevant and up to date information to our members and is highly regarded. I am sure it connects and binds the industry together well. Thank you to our editor, Sophie Preece, our long-standing sponsor TasmanCrop, printers Blenheim Print, and all advertisers. Thanks also to regular photographers Jim Tannock and Richard Briggs, for shining such a great light on our industry.

The Wine Marlborough Lifetime Achievement Award carries significant status for the organisation. There was a wonderful reaction from all as we awarded this to Neal and Judy Ibbotson at the 2020 Marlborough Wine Show Celebration, for their wonderful and long lasting contribution to the Marlborough wine industry, as early growers, winemakers, wine marketers, members of the early grape growing association, and wine festival organisers.

Neal and Judy are also passionate believers in the potential of Sauvignon Blanc via single vineyard expressions and their dedication and exploration of this, especially in newer areas such as Dillons Point, has changed the profile of our signature variety.

Thanks are also owed to Jack Glover - who has recently relocated to Sydney - for chairing the Marlborough Wine Show for the first two shows delivered by Wine Marlborough. We are very pleased with the progress the show has made under our ownership.

While we managed to hold our regular important events, the year has disrupted many of our plans at a personal and business level. Covid-19 has forced exceptional decisions to be made by many, including the Marlborough Winegrowers Board, which cancelled the Marlborough Wine & Food Festival for the first time in its 35-year history. This decision was not taken lightly, with the board assessing five criteria: health and safety, financial risk, community impact, reputation, and only being able to stage the event in an Alert Level 1 environment.

The organisation was fortunate to receive confirmation (but not payment of) a significant grant from the Domestic Events Fund that would have mitigated approximately 40% of the financial risk. We felt we could provide thorough health and safety advice and instructions to attendees to reduce the risk of exposure to Covid-19, but it was agreed it would be irresponsible to bring up to 8,000 people together just prior to harvest. With a well thought through and prepared communications plan, the decision was greeted with 100% support from site holders, sponsors, suppliers and the small number of pre-purchased ticket holders.

The Silver Secateurs viticulture event was held successfully in 2019, with a record number of entrants, but support from a smaller pool of Recognised Seasonal Employer (RSE) scheme employers. The event was effectively ‘on notice’ for review prior to the 2020 event, but Covid-19 stymied plans to deliver it again this year. No decision has been made about its future.

The New Zealand Young Winemaker of the Year event was finally brought into the fold of New Zealand

Rhys Hall

Winegrowers and delivered by them for the first time in 2019. Regional organisations, including Wine Marlborough, are responsible for the regional event delivery, and we congratulate Matua’s Production Winemaker Peter Russell for taking the Marlborough title in 2020, and going on to represent the region at the national Tonnellerie De Mercurey Young Winemaker of the Year 2020 competition.

We hope that this competition, established and managed for the first five years by Wine Marlborough - both regionally and nationally - will continue to thrive and reach similar levels as the New Zealand Young Viticulturist of the Year event. Congratulations also to Indevin’s Bankhouse Estate Assistant Manager Rhys Hall, who took out the regional young viticulturist competition for 2020, then went on to win the national title of Corteva New Zealand Young Viticulturist of the Year 2020. We are proud to be involved with both of these competitions, to give profile and knowledge to younger participants of the industry. Thank you to the generous local sponsors who support these people and our organisation.

Wine Marlborough led the response to the Marlborough Environment Plan, as you can read in the Protect section (page 13), where we outline advocacy initiatives. There have been many notable achievements in this area, including passing the first hurdle in seeking to protect the status quo for permitted irrigation draw from the major rivers and related aquifers. This decision, in support of the Marlborough District Council, has been challenged to the Environment Court by other parties. We will now focus our efforts in supporting the council on this matter.

Significant effort and resource has been put into many other advocacy areas, including measuring winery cellar hand pay rates, assessing work pressure for winemaking and cellar staff, working on seasonal and permanent job shortages, and many other compliance issues. Thank you to Vance Kerslake for his efforts throughout the year.

We would like to thank our board members, the team at Wine Marlborough and our members for the opportunity to lead this organisation and represent your interests.

Tom Trolove Chair, Marlborough Winegrowers Association Board Marcus Pickens General Manager, Wine Marlborough Winepress December 2020 / 7

MET REPORT Table 1: Blenheim Weather Data – November 2020

Air Temperature

November Nov 2020 November Period November The mean temperature of 15.2°C was 0.4°C above the long term average

2020 compared to LTA of LTA 2019 temperature (LTA) for November LTA of 14.8°C. The fact that the mean GDD’s for: temperature was above average was Month - Max/Min¹ 156.7 108% 145.4 (1996-2019) 201.9 entirely due to the average minimum Month – Mean² 145.9 99.7% 146.3 (1996-2019) 197.3 temperature being 1.0°C warmer Growing Degree Days Total than the LTA. The average maximum Jul - Nov 20 – Max/Min 415.9 124% 334.2 (1996-2019) 374.7 temperature was 0.1°C cooler than the Jul - Nov 20 – Mean 453.1 117% 386.5 (1996-2019) 441.0 LTA. The overcast skies associated Mean Maximum (°C) 19.9 -0.1°C 20.0 (1986-2019) 22.2 with the above average rainfall Mean Minimum (°C) 10.5 +1.0°C 9.5 (1986-2019) 11.2 kept the daytime temperatures Mean Temp (°C) 15.2 +0.4°C 14.8 (1986-2019) 16.7 close to average and the overnight Grass Frosts (<= -1.0°C) 0 - 0.50 (1986-2019) 0 temperatures warmer than average.

Air Frosts (0.0°C) 0 Equal 0.0 (1986-2019) 0 Although the November 2020 Sunshine hours 180.0 75% 241.4 (1986-2019) 272.8 mean temperature was slightly Sunshine hours – lowest 158.9 1985 above average, it was far cooler than Sunshine hours – highest 322.5 1997 November 2019, which is the second Sunshine hours total – 2020 2346.7 104% 2254.3 (1986-2019) 2526.7 warmest November on record.

Rainfall (mm) 81.8 165% 49.6 (1986-2019) 42.6 Weekly temperatures during Rainfall (mm) – lowest 4.6 1930 November varied quite markedly Rainfall (mm) – highest 154.6 1999 (Table 1). The first and third weeks of Rainfall total (mm) – 2020 438.6 74% 593.8 (1986-2019) 569.8 the month were well above average Evapotranspiration – mm 105.4 86% 123.0 (1996-2019) 134.0 whereas the second and fourth Avg. Daily Windrun (km) 197.9 67% 297.1 (1996-2019) 255.9 weeks were below average. Daily Mean soil temp – 10cm 15.7 +0.7°C 15.0 (1986-2019) 16.0 maximum temperatures showed Mean soil temp – 30cm 16.5 -0.1°C 16.6 (1986-2019) 17.2 quite marked variation from day to day on a number of occasions during ¹GDD’s Max/Min are calculated from absolute daily maximum and minimum November; e.g. max of 24.2°C on temperatures 1 November followed by a max of ²GDD’s Mean are calculated from average hourly temperatures only 14.9°C on 2 November. It is also November 2020 recorded well above average rainfall, slightly above average interesting to note that the hottest mean temperature, well below average sunshine hours and wind-run. maximum temperature for November Table 2: Weekly weather data during November 2020

1st - 7th 8th - 14th 15th - 21st 22nd - 28th 29th – 30th (2 days) 1st – 30th November 2020

November LTA (1986 – 2019) LTA – Long Term Average 8 / Winepress December 2020

Mean Max (°C) 20.1 18.3 22.7 18.7 19.6

Mean Min (°C) 12.3 9.5 10.8 9.5 10.3

Mean (°C) Deviation 16.2 (+1.4) 13.9 (-0.9) 16.8 (+2.0) 14.1 (-0.7) 15.0 (+0.2)

Rainfall (mm) 47.8 3.2 8.2 13.8 8.8

Sunshine (hours) 21.3 45.8 60.5 42.6 9.8

Wind-run (km) 197.7 196.4 215.1 185.1 188.0

19.9 10.5 15.2 (+0.4) (-0.1) (+1.0)

81.8 180.0 197.9 (165%) (75%) 67%

20.0

49.6

9.5

14.8

241.4

297.1

Figure 1: Normalized growing degree days for Blenheim: days above (+) or below (-) the longterm average (1990-2019) for the period 1 September to 30 April

of 27.8°C, recorded between 2 and 3 pm on Friday 27 November, was followed 15 hours later by the coolest minimum temperature for November of 5.8°C, recorded between 5 and 6 am on Saturday 28 November.

Growing degree days Growing degree days for November 2020 were slightly above average, but well below the high total in November 2019. Last season the GDD deviation line (green) climbed steeply from early November through until the second week of December 2019, but it dropped back during most of December 2019 and January 2020, with cool temperatures. At the end of November 2020 the GDD deviation line for the 2020/21 season is at the same position as it was at the end of November 2013.

As indicated in Figure 1, the 2013/14 season was very warm from September through to the end of December 2013, but from January 2014 onwards temperatures were average to below average.

With the current La Nina conditions that are present NIWA are highly confident that temperatures over summer (December 2020 to February 2021) will be above average; i.e. at the start of December they suggest that there is a 70% chance of above average temperatures in the top of the South island and only a 10% chance of below average temperatures, over the course of the three months.

However, that does not mean that we won’t get periods of cooler than average temperatures, as we have experienced during November. It just means that we should get far more warm days than cool days. If the above average temperatures become reality over summer then we should see the GDD line continue to climb. However, I would be very surprised if we get a summer as warm as in the 2017/18 season, as shown in Figure1.

Budburst, flowering and 8°Brix (véraison) dates of grapes in Marlborough in the 2020/21 season Budburst of grapes in Marlborough in 2020 was very early on 12 blocks of grapes that are monitored by

Plant & Food Research as part of the VineFacts program for New Zealand Winegrowers. In early October we anticipated that flowering of grapes in 2020 would also be very early. This has proven correct with dates of 50% flowering on our monitored blocks proving to be at least as early, or earlier than in the previous six years (2014-2019). With temperatures from December to February predicted to be above average we now anticipate that 8°Brix (véraison) in 2021 will also be very early; e.g. we anticipate that the block of Sauvignon blanc that we monitor in Central Rapaura could reach 8°Brix on 2 February 2021, or possibly slightly earlier if warm temperatures give rise to a shorter flowering to 8°Brix interval. 2 February 2021 would be the earliest date of 8°Brix for this block over the 17 years 2005 to 2021. The latest date of 8°Brix over the same time period was 25 February 2005.

Sunshine Only 180.0 hours of sunshine were recorded in Blenheim during November, 75% of the LTA. This is the third lowest November total on record (1930-2020) and the lowest total in the past 36 years (since 1985). However, the lowest total on record of 158.9 hours recorded in November 1985 was well below November 2020. The top of the South Island was well and truly beaten by other regions for sunshine hours in November. Richmond recorded 182.9 hours, very close to Blenheim’s total. However, Tekapo recorded 243.4 hours sunshine, 63.4 hours more than

Blenheim. Whakatane recorded 233.1 hours, and at the end of November Whakatane has leapfrogged 28.7 hours ahead of Richmond, to be leading the race for sunniest town in 2020.

Rainfall Blenheim recorded 81.8 mm rain in November, 165% of the LTA. November has recorded the highest monthly rainfall total so far in 2020, only just exceeding the May total of 81.6 mm.

Total rainfall for the 11 months January to November 2020 is 438.6 mm; 74% of the long-term average of 593.8 mm.

January to November 2019 recorded 569.8 mm; i.e. January to November 2020 has recorded 131.2 mm less rainfall than the same 11-month period in 2019. 2020 is still looking like it will be one of the 10 driest years on record for Blenheim for the 91 years 1930 to 2020.

Soil Moisture Shallow soil moisture (0 to 35 cm depth) at the Grovetown Park weather station on 1 November 2020 was 23.1%.

This was well below the average value for the start of November (2003 to 2019) of 27.5%. The 47.8 mm rainfall in the first week of November pushed the soil moisture up to 36.2% on 7 November. However, although a further 34.0 mm rain was recorded between 8 and 30 November, the shallow soil moisture dropped from 36.2% on 7 November to 29.5% on 30 November. Evapotranspiration from 8 to 30 November was 87.0 mm, 2.6 times greater than the rainfall over the same period, which helps to explain why the soil moisture declined.

Winepress December 2020 / 9

CELEBRATE

Wind Run Average daily wind run during November 2020 was 197.9 km; this is only 67% of the long-term average wind-run for November of 297.1 km.

November has the highest long-term average daily wind run, of any month during the year. Astoundingly only one day during November 2020 recorded above average daily wind-run, with 29 days recording below average daily wind-run (Figure 2). November 2020 is now the least windy November on record for Blenheim for the 25 years 1996 to 2020, (the period for which the Blenheim weather station has had an electronic anemometer). Of the 11 months to the end of November 2020, nine months have recorded below average wind-run and only two months above average wind-run.

Sunshine September to November 2020 recorded 665.1 hours sunshine, 99.9% of the long-term average. Normally we would expect the monthly sunshine hours during September, October and November to increase with the increasing day length. However, 2020 did the exact opposite, with sunshine hours highest in September and lowest in November.

Rainfall September to November 2020 recorded 168.8 mm rain, 105.5% of the LTA.

Figure 2: Daily wind-run during November 2020 compared to long-term average Spring Summary – September to November 2020 Table 3: Monthly sunshine, rainfall and mean temperature over spring in 2020 compared to average Month Sunshine Sunshine Rainfall Rainfall Mean temp Mean temp

hours 2020 hours LTA mm 2020 mm LTA °C 2020 °C LTA September 260.3 193.4 64.6 52.5 11.9 11.1 October 224.8 230.8 22.4 57.8 14.3 13.1 November 180.0 241.4 81.8 49.6 15.2 14.8 Total Sun & Rain 665.1 665.5 168.8 160.0 Mean temp 13.8 13.0 Temperature September to November 2020 recorded a mean temperature of 13.8°C. This was 0.8°C above the LTA (1986-2019). Spring 2020 is the warmest since 2013, which recorded a mean temperature of 14.0°C. Rob Agnew Plant & Food Research / Marlborough Research Centre

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Winepress December 2020 / 11

PROTECT

The Fizz Bizz A Méthode to our gladness SOPHIE PREECE

HAVING 12 Méthode Marlborough members for the 12 days of Christmas is surely a case of sparkling serendipity.

It’s also evidence of the rise of the bubbles category in Marlborough, as wine companies look to add pop to their portfolio, says Méthode Marlborough marketing manager Stephanie McIntyre.

“We do live in a fabulous region for growing grapes,” she says, noting that while Sauvignon has made Marlborough famous, most companies in the region also grow Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, two of the three grapes used for Méthode Traditionelle. The third - Pinot Meunier – has similar growing requirements to Pinot Noir, making it a perfect package.

And the same cool climate that creates Marlborough’s memorable Sauvignon also creates great sparkling wine, so that the grapes harvested early for bubbles have a depth and richness of flavour, as well as the natural acidity they need. “Méthode is made in the winery and that’s what’s fun about it. Each winemaker can put their stamp on the wine,” Stephanie says. “But you need quality fruit coming in.”

Méthode Marlborough wines are 100% grown and made in Marlborough, and 100% from the three traditional varieties, either individually or as a blend. They are crafted using the same technique as Méthode Champenoise, with fermentation in the bottle, and have to be aged on lees for a minimum of 18 months before being disgorged and labelled, but often are aged for far longer, says Stephanie.

“You really have to be committed. And it’s worth it.

Every member of Méthode Marlborough will tell you that.

It’s just so rewarding to make sparkling wine that is up to the calibre of Champagne’s … The feedback we get is just awesome.”

That’s a far cry from when Méthode Marlborough began eight years ago, with its members “really fighting against the current”, to get people to choose a Marlborough sparkling wine over a French counterpart at a similar price point.

“Now you walk in and people are excited by the calibre of the sparkling wines from Marlborough,” she says. That’s thanks to the quality of the offering, and also to the united work of the organisation, with a “shared voice” to promote the quality of the wines made here, says Stephanie, who’s 12 / Winepress December 2020

also excited by the influence of recent buy local trends.

When Daniel Le Brun and his family moved to Marlborough 40 years ago (see page 28), he was taking a big step into unknown territory. Twelve generations of Daniel’s family have been vignerons in Champagne, so when he first looked at Marlborough, and saw the potential of its climate and soil, he naturally thought of sparkling. “It was an unknown future, but I always thought I would give it a shot and should be able to produce something decent,” he says. “The surprise is that it has encouraged so many others to do the same.”

As well as making his seven labels under No.1 Family Estate, Daniel processes wine for customers from around the country, taking in their blended wine for tirage, before the wines are sent away to be stored on lees. When at the right age, the wines return to Daniel for riddling, using gyro pallets, then disgorging.

The demand for Daniel’s assistance is partly about the specialised and expensive equipment required and partly because people rely on the passion and knowledge forged over his lifetime – or over many generations – depending on your perspective. Known to many as Marlborough’s Godfather of Méthode, he says there’s increasing admiration for the sparkling that emerges from Marlborough.

As the Le Bruns celebrate 40 years making bubbles in Marlborough, Whitehaven has just released its first Méthode Traditionelle. The 2018 vintage Samantha Cuvée – named for the daughter of Whitehaven founders Greg and Sue White – was released on December 1, made from 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir. “It’s quite a fine, delicate pure kind of bubbles,” says Whitehaven winemaker Peter Jackson, pleased to have the style in their portfolio, perfect for kicking off events.

“We think we have the ability to do it really well,” says Peter. “We have the varieties planted adjacent to or very close to the winery which means we’re able to hand pick and process the fruit very quickly and capture very pure juice.” Meanwhile, small tanks in the winery allow for the separation of different parcels, which is “very useful with bubbles”, he says.

CELEBRATE

The Godfather’s apprentice Lee Dobson had no knowledge of wine when he started working in the Le Brun cellar as a 19-year-old, brand new to New Zealand. “I started asking questions and started to really appreciate what goes into the making of the wine,” says the No.1 Family Estate Winery Manager, 17 years on. “I was really intrigued about how Daniel made the wines like he did.”

He learned all he could on the job, and then through studies sponsored by Daniel and his wife Adele and has become someone Méthode makers turn to. “I really enjoy

“I was really intrigued about how Daniel made the wines like he did.”

Lee Dobson working in such a specialised field. Winemakers from all over the country ask for advice and I love helping them out and making the best wine that we can.”

The growth of the sparkling sector has changed the workload at No.1, with a “100% increase in clients”, says Lee. There’s also been a sea change in the quality of the wines they make for other companies, he says. “When I think back at what the wines were like when I started, a lot of people making bubbles were using secondary quality grapes, not intended for bubbles from day one.”

Now the wineries put plenty of effort into growing the three Méthode varieties, concentrating on lower yields, picking at the balance of ripeness, flavour and acidity, “and turning them into really good products”, he says.

“It’s really good to see.”

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Winepress December 2020 / 13

EDUCATE Photo, MarlboroughNZ

Growing Resilience Building resilience for vintage 2021 SOPHIE PREECE

GREATER RESILIENCE can be learned and practiced, says consultant Bradley Hook, who is gleaning insights into the emotional strengths and risks in Marlborough’s wine industry.

The Resilience Institute facilitator recently ran a Wine Marlborough workshop for industry members, speaking of the signs of a downward spiral and tools that can enable a “bounce” back up.

There’s no “magic solution”, but some basic starting points are better sleep patterns and learning to stay calm, he told attendees, two of whom were tasked with demonstrating the response of a zebra to a hungry lion.

We have evolved with the same flight and fight response, and an inbox full of emails can engage the same cortisol response, “to get you away”, he says. “Our body doesn’t know the difference between a lion and a performance review.”

The half-day face-to-face workshop in Blenheim delved into stress, wellbeing, emotional intelligence and cognitive skills, interspersed with light stretching, some power posing and a guided meditation.

Before the event, those attending were given access to the Resilience App and a Resilience Diagnostic Assessment, which was completed by 62 people. The results showed a high score for integrity, “which is pretty important in a

14 / Winepress December 2020

modern workplace”, says Bradley. The participants also scored well in decisiveness, empathy and emotional insight, although conversations during the workshop revealed conflict in some workplaces, he says.

There was also a low immune failure, low selfabsorption and the highest score he’s seen in biological insight, which is an understanding of how their body is operating.

On the downside, the results showed a high level of selfcriticism, low influence, poor sleep quality, quite high fatigue levels and high levels of worry. “The other one I would like to improve is contemplation,” he says, talking of people taking “moments” to pause and focus on themselves, away from devices.

Improving resilience starts with conversations, which makes the insights invaluable, says Bradley. They’re also a benchmark for subsequent diagnostic assessment, eight weeks on, as part of a follow-up webinar focussing on resilience from a leadership perspective. The second assessment will measure improvement in resilience, through greater self-awareness and use of tools in the Resilience App. A few wine companies have been in touch since the workshop to find out how to tap into resilience resources for their staff, says Bradley. That’s a win-win for individuals

and businesses, he adds, explaining the highly productive “flow” state, where the level of challenge and the level of biological distress are at an ideal point, lifting resilience by 38%. After the challenge increases and the flow peaks, biological stress gets out of kilter, and performance drops swiftly through states of distress (grey) then failure (black).

Bradley notes that a big part of resilience is recognising that the body will try to help when it recognises a threat.

“Too much can send us into code grey, and we experience inflammation and distress.” He emphasises that resilience is not about avoiding challenges, but learning to structure a life that oscillates between challenging high performance “and then rest and rejuvenate”.

Wine Marlborough advocacy manager Vance Kerslake says the event was organised as one of the responses to a winemaker survey completed late last year, which revealed some concerning work-life imbalances. The Covid-19 2020 harvest posed unique challenges, and the industry is heading into another extraordinary vintage. “Preparing supervisors and leaders to work with a very different workforce will be a significant challenge for vintage 2021, and building resilience and enhancing wellbeing will be an important step,” he says.

Vance says the response to the workshop has been excellent, with members utilising some of the simple tools laid out to “better protect their wellbeing”.

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Winepress December 2020 / 15

EDUCATE

Costly Vintage

Photo Richard Briggs

The expensive business of Covid-19 vintages

SOPHIE PREECE

THE 2020 vintage was far more expensive than a typical year, with costs pushed “through the roof” by Covid-19, says Wine Marlborough advocacy manager Vance Kerslake.

The results from the industry body’s 2020 Winery Remuneration Survey have revealed the myriad of ways in which operating through Alert Level 4 lockdown influenced winery expenses, including much higher accommodation, catering and cleaning costs, says Vance. “It was a very expensive vintage and a very expensive winter pruning season. So, while we are seeing some high sales data, that does not necessarily mean a healthy balance sheet or high profit for Marlborough wine companies.”

Vintage 2021 is likely to be as costly, but for different reasons, says Vance. Companies are spending a “huge amount of time and energy and money” on attracting people to the workforce, with closed borders shutting out most of the skilled cellar hands typically employed over vintage.

Instead, companies are investing in marketing positions and recruiting New Zealanders, and then investing in training them up, “because a lot of people coming through have no vintage or winery experience”, says Vance. Companies are also facing the increased cost of upskilling their existing staff, “who are going to have to lead and supervise and manage a totally different workforce than we would usually have at vintage”.

There are reports of some companies paying a premium for experienced people for the next vintage, because they are in such short supply, “while for other companies that is not really an option”, says Vance. In addition, several companies he has spoken to are putting in place the extra layers of precaution developed in vintage 2020, so they are prepared should New Zealand face another lockdown.

Those arrangements, including bubble-safe accommodation for staff, will come at a significant cost, he says.

The 2020 Remuneration Survey showed accommodation to be the most common extra cost last 16 / Winepress December 2020

“It was a very expensive vintage and a very expensive winter pruning season.”

Vance Kerslake vintage, with 28 of the 31 wineries in the survey reporting that they had to change or provide accommodation to isolate workers and maintain ‘bubbles’, including in campervans, hotels and motels. Constellation Brands New Zealand managing director Simon Towns says the company spent around $500,000 on facilitating harvest workers to move out of joint accommodation into single-occupancy accommodation for vintage 2020, “in order to be socially distant and stay safe”. The cost also reflects the provisioning of dinners, “as well as additional time in the accommodation at the end of harvest to allow them to arrange their next move”.

The report indicates far bigger price tags on the costs of cleaning, cleaning products and PPE, and many wineries provided additional transport. Vance says there was also a wide range of additional expenses, including flight changes, vouchers, bonus payments, extra staff, extra phones and laptops, more sick leave, lost productivity, shift changeover time, extra meals and EAP services offered.

Many wineries incurred extra costs when they worked to keep international vintage workers employed, in vineyard or winery, after they were stranded in the country after vintage. “The point I keep trying to reiterate for people is that the impact of Covid on wine companies has been very lumpy,” says Vance.

New Zealand wine’s export sales are soaring, with Rabobank’s quarterly report showing strong growth in the eight months to August 2020, with exports increasing by 10.7% and the value by 9.7% in comparison to the same period last year. But Vance says those results are not across the board. “Some people have benefitted and others to a lesser extent or not at all.”

GROW

New Zealand Wine Centre Work on the first stage of the New Zealand Wine Centre is expected to begin in January, with building due to be completed before the end of 2021. Marlborough Research Centre (MRC) chief executive Gerald Hope says there’s been no time wasted since July’s announcement of $3.79m from the Government’s Provincial Growth Fund (PGF).

“With that certainty, MRC matched the Government’s funding and commenced the final detailed design leading to this contract.”

Stage one of the wine centre - Te Pokapū Wāina o Aotearoa - will provide offices, meeting rooms and coshared space for wine research institutions and the wine industry to collaborate. It is to be built on the Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology (NMIT) campus in Budge St, which is the education arm of the collaboration.

The key partners in the development are NMIT, the Ministry of Business and Innovation and Employment through the PGF, New Zealand Winegrowers through the Bragato Research Institute and Te Pūkenga – the New Zealand Institute of Skills and Technology. Existing MRC tenants Plant & Food Research, Wine Marlborough and Sustainable Wine New Zealand have provided the research base for the ongoing expansion.

Gerald says all the partners involved in the New Zealand Wine Centre want to provide a pathway for

future generations in the wine industry. Stage two of the New Zealand Wine Centre development will also get underway early next year, with the existing NMIT entrance redeveloped to provide a gateway into the new site. Gerald says the new development is another pivotal point in the 36-year history of the Marlborough Research Centre.

“We are transforming the working environment at the Budge Street campus with a clear intention of setting up Marlborough as the recognised research base for the New Zealand wine sector.”

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Winepress December 2020/ 17

PROTECT

Snap Shot Rocketing export numbers don’t tell the full story of Marlborough wine companies operating in a Covid-19 world. In the second part of a series of snapshots, SOPHIE PREECE talks to four Marlborough wine companies of varying sizes and models about their experience.

Mahi “I reckon there are four or five good things about getting old,” says Brian Bicknell of Mahi Wines. One of them is having experienced the wine glut of 2008 and 2009, and learned to pivot with the punches.

Mahi is a boutique Marlborough producer that’s largely dependent on on-premise sales, with restaurants making up 85% of its New Zealand market, and similar ratios overseas.

That meant orders were disrupted when the pandemic hit, and payments slowed to sluggish.

But Mahi made moves to limit its risk, starting with selling 2020 fruit on the vine rather than committing it to tank. Brian says in 2009 he held on to his 2008 wines, then glumly watched the bulk price drop and his profit margins disappear. “This time quite quickly we on-sold some fruit,” says the founder of the boutique Marlborough winery. “We knew on-premise was going to be hit and we wanted to make sure we could pay our growers on time.” He wasn’t making money, but “we weren’t having to fork out hundreds of thousands of dollars to be sitting on wine”.

The bulk wine price has risen in the months since, and he’s getting calls from companies keen to spend money on supply, so he’s aware he could have made a margin if he’d held on. But Brian is content with the “pivot” that took the pressure off the company. With less of Mahi’s fruit in the

Eradus Wines “We have to hold our breath and tread water, and make sure we are ready to go when things open up again,” says Michiel Eradus.

The family-owned Eradus Wines sells 60% of its wine on-premise, with its most concentrated areas Melbourne and London, where Covid-19 shutdowns have been a grim

18 / Winepress December 2020

tanks, the winery could take in more fruit from one its few contract clients, again giving financial reassurance, with payback monthly, instead of the three year wait on selling wine.

The Covid crisis couldn’t have happened at a worse time for Mahi, with deposits paid for grapes, and a large amount of 2019 Sauvignon put in bottle in February. “If it had happened two months earlier we would have bottled less, and we wouldn’t have committed to such a large amount of grapes,” says Brian. Instead, he’s sold more of his 2020 Sauvignon in bulk, balancing out the 2019 he has in bottle.

On the plus side, Brian loves to drive, and has been packing his truck with cases of Mahi, to attend winemaker dinners in every corner of the country. The pandemic may have gutted global on premise wine sales, but it’s doubled these domestic events, and the winemaker is a happy man driving down the road to meet with keen restauranteurs and eager wine lovers.

When it comes to the broader view of New Zealand wine, with export numbers booming, Brian says he’s long been worried about the percentage of wine in supermarkets, threatening the commoditisation of Marlborough wine.

“Then Covid came along and that was probably what saved the industry.” reality. “But everyone is throwing everything they can into getting the sales through different channels,” Michiel says, adding that when things get back on track (“which they will”) Eradus will be ready.

When Covid lockdown hit New Zealand during the 2020 harvest, he slashed his forecasts by 60%, reflecting the company’s reliance on on-premise trade in Australia and the UK. It was based on the worst-case scenario, “because if it is going to be bad, I want my forecast to be worse than the actual”, he says.

He also ditched Eradus’ usual model of growing excess grapes to make a portion of wine for bulk market sales after harvest, and instead sold enough fruit to pay his bills and growers. It meant taking a loss, but ensured he could sleep for the next six months “instead of being constantly worried about it”. Despite bulk wine prices increasing

GROW

since, he has no regrets, “because it was the right decision at the time”.

Despite his grim forecasts, Michiel made enough wine to sell double the budgeted amount, with a buffer of bulk up his sleeve if required. He hasn’t had to use that yet, “but sales are definitely better than we anticipated”.

Retail sales, while a small portion of their market, have gone well, while anything on-premise is poor, he says. But he’s confident that good distributors will be ready to rebound when lockdowns retreat. In the meantime, “it really makes you knuckle down and look at your costs again and your overheads”, he says. “Are you running a tight ship? Because ultimately the margins are not massive.”

Astrolabe “Going with the flow sounds a lot more relaxed than it has been,” says Astrolabe general manager Libby Waghorn Levett. “But that’s kind of what it’s been like.”

She and her sister Arabella - brand manager and winemaking apprentice in the family-owned business – say that during the 2020 harvest they were all “pretty terrified” of what Covid-19 would mean for their business. “We are pretty exposed, with all of us depending on it for our livelihood,” says Libby. “We had no idea what it would look like.” They did projections based on some dire scenarios, including having no exports, “and we worried whether we would still be standing on the other side of it”, she says.

For the financial year ending June 30, at least some of their initial fears seemed founded, with some large forecast export orders delayed as importers took a cautious approach. But it didn’t take long for them to see some pleasant surprises amid the gloom, including online retail sales they’ve never seen the like of. They’d never promoted that channel, and didn’t do so during lockdown, “but we had a steady stream of people actively wanted to buy from us”, says Arabella.

Meanwhile, retail sales also increased, making up for the drop in on-premise, which traditionally accounts for 65% of their overall market. “That has definitely shifted in the past 12 months,” says Libby. “Because we had a foothold (in retail) already, we were luckily able to expand in that area.” And she has warm words for Foodstuffs who “were really good to all their suppliers, paying almost

immediately”. They had been concerned about cash flow and bad debts, “so that kind of stuff was huge”, she says.

Arabella notes that they’ve had “bad news stories” too, including in Asian hospitality, where pre-Covid they were successful in resorts, and also via airlines, several of which had Astrolabe in business class. However, in the US market, where they had 75% reliance on on-premise and the rest with small independent retailers impacted by lockdowns, they have had steady sales, only slightly down on average, thanks to the work of their distributor, says Libby. And in New Zealand, domestic sales have been really strong in the past quarter, fuelled by a strong buy local trend, says Arabella.

The sisters say they’ve not consciously moved to more retail or more online, but simple bent with the market and demand. “We have not actively changed what we are doing,” says Libby. And going with the flow seems to be working, because since July 1 their sales are tracking slightly ahead of this time last year, and well above the forecasts made as Covid hit, she says. “We’re probably close to what we would have budgeted if Covid hadn’t happened, despite some export markets still being pretty depressed.” Ten months after harvest, Astrolabe is standing strong. “We have been feeling quite jolly heading into this Christmas.”

Ormond Nurseries “There’s amazing demand for Sauvignon Blanc at the moment”, with grapevines almost fully allocated for 2021, says Samantha Wickham from Ormond Nurseries. “In Marlborough things have been surpassing our expectations.”

Samantha says before Covid-19, they anticipated more demand from Central Otago, as companies slowly replant on phylloxera resistant rootstock. The past two years were spent grafting and testing vines for that market, but many replant projects have “received the brakes” in Central, she says, believed that companies more reliant on cellar door business are taking a wait and see approach to Covid-19.

With many companies retaining their 2020 orders but cancelling 2021, Ormond Nurseries has swiftly changed tack to meet the booming Marlborough demand.

Orders for standard height Sauvignon Blanc for new developments have gone through the roof, says Samantha.

“It’s an unexpected change.” But grafting and testing grapevines takes time, with careful material selection to ensure a match, and some developers will need to wait for 2022, she says.

Winepress December 2020 / 19

EDUCATE

Rosé’s Rise NZSVO workshop thinks pink SOPHIE PREECE

DAVE CLOUSTON’S winemaking mates once hailed him as the Prince of Rosé, somewhat surprised by his preference for pink. “I had been working in Corsica, so for me it was normal. But back in New Zealand it was very much what you drank if you couldn’t drink anything else.”

A decade on that’s “totally changed”, with the style adored by men and women worldwide, says the Two Rivers founder and winemaker, who finds himself in crowded company these days, with global consumption of Rosé up by 40% since 2002.

Dave was one of the speakers at the New Zealand Society for Viticulture and Oenology (NZSVO) Rosé Technical Workshop in Marlborough last month, addressing a packed room of grape growers, winemakers, scientists and marketers. He laughs that had the workshop been held back in 2013, when he produced his first vintage of Two Rivers’ bone dry, pale pink Isle of Beauty, he’d likely have been the only one in the room.

The revelation of Rosé struck Negociants managing director Clive Weston in 2014, when he was at Auckland’s Viaduct on a sunny summer’s day, and noticed three executives sitting at a table. The two men each had glasses of Rosé, with the bottle in an ice bucket, while the woman was sipping a pint of craft beer. “That was a lightbulb moment,” he told the audience, showcasing stats that show Rosé’s stellar rise on the world stage.

Clive told attendees at the workshop that the 2019 Global Wine Industry Outlook report, which canvassed more than 300 wine industry professionals in over 50 countries, concluded that through to 2025, at least, confidence in the opportunity for the Rosé category was stronger than for either white or red table wines.

NZSVO president Jeff Sinnott says a unique aspect of the technical workshop was its focus on a single style. That meant people from all realms of the wine industry, whether

“Rosé is also judged on what is outside the bottle.”

Dave Clouston

20 / Winepress December 2020

Dave Clouston

viticulturists, winemakers or marketers, saw a broad view of Rosé, from branding and market expectations to yeast choices and soil science. “Another unique aspect of the technical workshops is that they are interactive,” he says.

“We invite discussion and discourse between participants and presenters, so that people feel immersed in the topic rather than being passive observers.”

It is often in the tastings that “the lightbulb moments” occur, he says. That’s what happened when tasting one of the French Rosés on show, with subsequent discussion on the role of volatile thiols in Rosé, “how customers perceive them and how producers can target and manipulate them”, says Jeff.

Glen and Kirsten Creasy zoomed in from Sabrosia in France to give a French take on styling Rosé, as well as a viticultural perspective, and Jiaming Wang from Labstat in Canada spoke of the chemical and sensory profiles of Rosé, as well as opportunities in the China market.

Dave says that when it comes to Rosé, producers need to look at their marketing, story and presentation. “Pinot Noir is very much judged on what is in the bottle, whereas Rosé is also judged on what is outside the bottle,” he says.

“You still need a banging wine. But it’s more about raw materials than trickery in the winery.” Two Rivers works back from the consumer to the bottle, “rather than making the wine and then looking at how to sell it”, says Dave, who wound up the workshop with his presentation on modern New Zealand Rosé and a case study on Isle of Beauty.

He loves that the style now has an eager following, including from major companies that can open doors to markets, allowing more boutique offerings to slip on through behind them. “It’s great to see Rosé taken so seriously, and have so many people turn up to hear about it.”

GROW

Good Neighbours Giesen Group has purchased Constellation Brands New Zealand’s Riverlands winery, as both companies look to expand production.

The ever-increasing US demand for Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, coupled with a decline in Pinot Noir demand, has been a key driver in Constellation’s decision to sell the winery, which is designed for smaller parcel wine production. Managing director Simon Towns says the sale allows the company to focus its efforts on the state-ofthe-art Drylands operation, “to leverage its full efficiency in growing high-end Sauvignon Blanc”.

Meanwhile, Giesen sees the purchase as the ideal way to expand its operation from its existing winery, which is just across the road. The sale of the winery is planned to settle in mid-December, in time for the upcoming 2021 harvest, and Giesen is hopeful all current winery employees will join the Giesen team.

Giesen’s general manager Kyle Skene says the company has been considering the best way to undertake its growth strategy, and expanding into the neighbouring property provides an ideal solution. The small production parcels suit the company, which has several growers throughout the valley, as well as its own vineyards, and a number of varietals, including Riesling and Pinot Gris and the as Pinot Noir, Syrah and Chardonnay at the premium end of its portfolio, says Kyle. “This is just an

expansion of what we already have and allows us to keep parcels separate and blend for the best wine we possibly can.”

The new winery takes the company from 22 million litres to 29.7 million litres within a vintage, he says.

“Building that from scratch in the back paddock would have taken us a couple of years to do.”

Simon says it’s “an exciting time” for the Kiwi wine industry, with global demand continuing to grow. “We’re delighted to have sold Riverlands to such a reputable wine company with an equally impressive track record and growth projections”.

Winepress December 2020 / 21

CELEBRATE

Good Row Wine companies connect with Marlborough rowers

SOPHIE PREECE

FRED VAVASOUR is up at 5am five mornings a week to slip into a scull with his teammates, rowing 16km on the Wairau River before the school day begins.

As they approach the Maadi Cup in March, the Marlborough Boys’ College (MBC) rowing team will train 11 times a week, working together to hone their performance, “because you cannot make a boat go fast without getting on with the other people”, says Fred.

That’s caught the attention of several Marlborough businesses facing labour shortages, keen to tap into the unity and tenacity at work on the Wairau, while helping the boys secure better boats.

Tess Keenan, communications and community manager of Constellation Brands New Zealand, says they’re excited to be building a new relationship with the MBC team, as a platinum sponsor. “The attributes required of young rowers, like resilience and teamwork, align nicely

22 / Winepress December 2020

“These are all hardworking businesses that believe in these boys.”

Samantha Wickham with those required in our business and industry,” she says.

“We’re looking forward to sharing these insights about life in wine in due course.”

The rowing team also toil together, lifting wires and stacking wood, to help fund their sport. But the ‘Jobs Squad’ cannot hope to pay for costly new boats. So in October, three rowing mothers - Samantha Wickham from Ormond Nurseries, Clare Kilty from Agrivit and Anna Straker from Remac - called on Marlborough businesses to help raise $156,700 over the next three to five years.

The new equipment will be a “hand up” for hundreds of Marlborough’s rowers in future years, as they compete against well-funded private schools in “an elite

GROW

“Hopefully that will contribute to making us the fastest boats on the course.”

Fred Vavasour environment”, says Samantha. “Marlborough is definitely the underdog, but is usually placed due to sheer drive and tenacity and access to our incredible local river.”

Fred says it can be psychologically tough going against private schools rowing sculls worth up to $120,000. “But we overachieve”, says the Year 12 student, explaining that what MBC’s team lacks in resources they make up for with great coaching. Now they’ll have both, with a successful sponsorship push that has “far exceeded our initial expectations”, says Samantha, wielding a long list of Marlborough companies who’re inspired by the boys’ work ethic and teamwork.

Constellation became a sponsor after seeing the Job Squad at work, she says. They were keen to look at innovative solutions to labour shortages, exacerbated by Covid-19, and to be involved in the community, she adds.

It’s about developing “real connections” to possibly build a bridge between local people and an interest in working in the wine industry, she says.

Crown Sheetmetal, a gold sponsor, saw the same opportunity. Rowing instils a great work ethic, “requiring absolute commitment to the cause in an environment where team synergy is crucial”, says general manager Crichton Purdie. “These are the exact same values that today’s employers so desperately seek.” He says the company brings on apprentices each year, but finds it challenging to find new recruits. “We see this new relationship with MBC rowing as a real opportunity for Crown and these young men to develop a relationship through rowing that will lead to further opportunities for both.”

Samantha says many of the sponsoring companies are involved in the wine industry, from Agrivit to Liquid Action, New Zealand Wineries to Klima, and all are impressed with the rowers’ dedication. After the regatta season the club will organise an industry taster day, “where the boys will go to each of the businesses, and see what the sponsors do”, Samantha says. “I love the community tie-in… These are all hard-working businesses that believe in these boys.”

In the meantime, Fred is excited about the prospect of slicker sculls for his teams at Maadi, and for the hundreds of boys who will row with the club in the years to come.

“Hopefully that will contribute to making us the fastest boats on the course.”

WE’RE SEEKIGN GROWERS! Invivo & Co is looking for new grower partners and vineyard lease opportunities in Marlborough and the Hawke’s Bay! You will play a part in producing wine for our Invivo, Graham Norton wine and Invivo X, Sarah Jessica Parker wine brands!

We’re an easy-going bunch and pay good rates for quality fruit with favourable terms. You will have local contacts to liaise with all year round about viticulture. We’re looking for Sauvignon Blanc but will look at other varieties too.

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Winepress December 2020 / 23

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Water Watch Get in the know on H2O JIM MERCER

THE 2020 year has continued to be dry overall in Marlborough, with only 357mm of rain received from January to the end of October at the Marlborough Research Centre. That is just 66% of the long-term average, and while decent rainfall in the first two weeks of November has helped replenish the region, some soils and areas have not fully re-charged this winter. In particular, parts of the Awatere and some clay based soils are showing deficits in the deeper levels of the root zone.

After two very dry summers, many growers are concerned about water security. In the summer of 2019 when abstraction from the Wairau River was shut down for more than five weeks, growers without an alternative source were reduced to trucking in tanks of water or were unable to irrigate at all.

This led to some blocks losing leaf,

compromising both yield and quality.

Fortunately, in summer 2020 rivers maintained better levels than 2019 and there were only brief shut-downs, but in some cases limited irrigation capacity still adversely affected results.

In response, more dams are going in, with 11 dams consented in 2019, ranging from 2,000 cubic metres (m³) to 100,000m³, and an average size of 30,000m³. This year 12 dams have been consented to date, ranging from 8,000m³ to 100,000m³, and an average size of 35,000m³ Companies are investing more in the maintenance of their irrigation

Avoid undervine cultivation. systems. That can be a constant battle because of pumps clogging or wearing out, solenoid malfunctions and hares and rabbits damaging driplines, by chewing through to find remnant water. That starts with small leaks and can create major issues.

If water restrictions do hit, there are some key tools to protecting vineyards with little water. They include: • Avoid excessive irrigation before anticipated dry periods - this just creates a lush canopy and, when restrictions come in, a bigger shock to vines.

• Keep your vines trimmed. More canopy needs more water, so reduce your leaf area and the dominant shoots on top.

• Water at night or early morning if possible, so you don’t lose water through evaporation • If tanking in water, or eking out a small supply, don’t water all your plants a small amount every day. If you have one or two litres per vine per day, double or treble that amount every second or third day. With irrigation on for half an hour it will not infiltrate any depth and won’t be efficient. You can still irrigate every day, but alternate the blocks that get water.

• Avoid undervine cultivation. It is good for controlling weeds, which compete for water, but opens up the soil to moisture loss. If you can, mow weeds instead.

• Prioritise certain varieties. Pinot Noir, for example, has a lower water requirement, but Sauvignon Blanc doesn’t like to get too stressed.

• Also prioritise watering according to soil type - vines on a heavy silt loam can cope far better with a limited water supply than those on a free draining gravel.

• If your vines are carrying too much fruit, moderate the crop accordingly. The higher the yield the higher the water requirement in the ripening phase.

Jim Mercer is a consultant at Fruition Horticulture in Marlborough.

24 / Winepress December 2020

Go Hard against Powdery Mildew and Botrytis!

Continue to go hard for better disease control For a month after completion of flowering, berries and leaves remain vulnerable to Powdery Mildew, including diffuse Powdery Mildew, both forms providing additional pathways for Botrytis. HML32 deals at a microscopic level with all three diseases, when applied correctly and combined with sulphur and copper (eradicatively and preventatively).

Follow up after flowering with alternating HML32 or Protector combinations at 7 to 10 day intervals, depending on disease pressure. Recover with a HML32 combination after major weather events.

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WINEPRESS Winepress December 2020/ 25DEC 2020

CELEBRATE

Generation Y-ine Student winemaker takes top trophy BRENDA WEBB

LEE HALL was a late starter to the wine industry. Having had health issues in his 20s, it wasn’t until he reached his 30s that he returned to the workforce and began thinking about career options. After completing a Level 3 cellar operations course at Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology (NMIT) and doing a vintage at Indevin, the now 36-year-old decided viticulture and winemaking were what he wanted to do. “I have taken a bit longer than some, but I feel I know what I want to do now. I wanted to be involved in a primary industry,” he says.

Lee studies part-time and commutes weekly from Nelson to NMIT’s Marlborough campus, where he is now part-way through his Bachelor of Viticulture and Winemaking. He proved his mettle recently when his Muscat wine won a silver award at the 2020 Marlborough Wine Show. Lee also won the NMIT Ginkgo trophy for the best student wine at the awards. The Ginkgo Trophy was created from a wine barrel and named after the notable ginkgo tree that takes pride of place in the NMIT campus courtyard.

Last year was the first time student wines were included in the prestigious show, thanks to a collaboration between NMIT and Wine Marlborough. That year, the student wines

“I particularly enjoy learning the different intricacies of grape varieties and find the whole wine making process so intriguing.”

Lee Hall

26 / Winepress December 2020

were tasted in their own category, but this year they were included in the blanket blind tastings.

Winning the trophy was a thrill for Lee, who says there is definitely an element of “silent competition” between students. “And everyone did well - we got four bronzes as well,” he says. Lee is a sweet wine fan, saying Asti Ricadonna is one of his favourites. “It’s well made, genuine and true to its roots.” It’s also made from Muscat – Moscato Bianco – although Lee’s award-winning wine was a dry white style made from Muscat le petite Grande – a premium clone.

Conditions pre harvest weren’t ideal for the NMIT students, with Covid-19 presenting a range of challenges.

With lockdown looming, some grapes had to be picked early, says Lee. “We had been measuring brix, but circumstances dictated we had to pick,” he explains. “Powdery mildew was also an issue as Muscat, being a sweet grape, is prone to it and so I was brushing off mildew as I was picking bunches.”

Lee particularly enjoyed his introduction to the wine industry via the cellar operations course, followed by his stint at Indevin. “Doing vintage was a really good learning experience even though it was very full-on – 12 hours a day.” He’s already signed up to do next harvest with Seifried in Nelson and hopes to eventually find work in that area, leaning towards winemaking at present.

“I particularly enjoy learning the different intricacies of grape varieties and find the whole winemaking process so intriguing - it fascinates me, and I enjoy all the grape varieties,” he says. “I really enjoy tasting and analysing the wines and learning the aspects of the different varieties but particularly love aromatics.”

Cellar Ops Tops SOPHIE PREECE Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology’s new cellar operations course is so heavily subscribed that the school will run two full classes in January.

Pam Wood, Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology (NMIT) curriculum manager for primary industries, says the first Cellar Operations Level 3 course started in August, while enrolments for the January intake were so strong that she’ll run two full classes, with one doing winery work while the other is at NMIT, then vice versa. The August class will be in the final portion of their course in January, “so effectively there will be three streams running in parallel”.

The courses are based on balancing class work with winery work – better meeting the needs of students and industry, says Pam, who worked with wineries to create the best model. “It’s been NMIT completely changing our approach and going out to say ‘what can we do for you?’

Rather than, ‘this is what we can do for you’,” she says.

“We have also improved our online platforms so students have more support.”

The enthusiastic enrolments are good news for the wine industry, because all the students will do a work placement in vintage 2021. When combined with NMIT’s Bachelor of Viticulture and Winemaking students and the Level 4 Cellar Ops students – who are already working in wineries - that will mean close to 100 NMIT students working full-time over vintage, helping ease the labour shortages being faced with borders closed.

Pam notes that some students have far more experience than others, but there’s a raft of roles over vintage, and companies are keen to source the staff they need. And the industry has been incredibly supportive of the school, by taking students for work experience or field trips, and sending in expert staff to do assessments, she says. That means students can stay abreast of all the latest technology in the wine industry, by seeing it at work in cutting-edge wineries.

The online offering of the Cellar Ops course one will have a December and January intake, “so students can complete this before arriving in Marlborough or those caring for school children during January school holidays won’t have barriers to study,” Pam says. “They will join the remainder of the group when course two starts in early February.”

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Winepress December 2020/ 27

CELEBRATE

Industry Pioneer Forty years sparkling in Marlborough KAT PICKFORD Adele and Daniel Le Brun. Photo Jim Tannock

WHEN DANIEL Le Brun first visited Marlborough in 1978, he was “immediately convinced” the region had the potential for great wine. Daniel hails from a long line of winemakers in the Champagne district in France, where his family has been growing grapes since 1684 and making Champagne since 1791. As a young Champagne maker, however, Daniel was frustrated with France’s strict regulations and lack of opportunity, so made the decision to visit friends in New Zealand and check out the winemaking scene down under.

He was less than impressed with the first New Zealand wine he tasted in Thames, but after hearing that Montana had planted three vineyard blocks in Marlborough, he travelled down in the summer of 1978. “I was immediately convinced this was the place to be. The soil and the climate reminded me of Champagne in the best vintage years, yet it happens every year here in Marlborough,” Daniel says.

“There was no winery infrastructure back then, just bare paddocks with almost desert-like conditions, not a blade of green grass to be seen, just a few dusty sheep and that was about it.”

He set about collecting vine cuttings from vineyards in the North Island, sticking to what he knew from his homeland - Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier – the classic Champagne varieties. After selling some of his vineyards in Champagne, Daniel arrived in Marlborough

“There was no winery infrastructure back then, just bare paddocks with almost desert-like conditions.”

Daniel Le Brun 28 / Winepress December 2020

in September 1980, followed in October by his wife Adele, four-month-old daughter Virginie, two dogs and 50,000 cuttings, which had to be put in cool storage until suitable land was found to plant.

The couple bought a site in Renwick for a winery (where Mahi is today) and 12 hectares along State Highway 6 for a vineyard. They then worked furiously to get the vines in the ground in time, says Adele, who remembers pushing baby Virginie along in the buggy in front of her as they worked.

They began building the winery in 1983, something the Rural Bank was not so keen to provide capital for, Adele says. “They were very skeptical about grapes and the future of the wine industry in Marlborough.”

With his traditional approach to viticulture and winemaking, including close planting, developing an underground cellar and planting varieties such as Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, Daniel soon made a name for himself as the “mad Frenchman”. He took on a second job, developing and managing vineyards for absentee owners, to earn some income while they waited for the day they could release their first wines.

That day finally came in 1985, when the Speaker of the House of Representatives and renowned wine buff, Jonathan Hunt, opened their first bottle of wine in the time honoured tradition of sabrage, in front of a party of over 200 guests.

The next challenge was convincing New Zealanders to buy $18 bottles of wine, rather than $3 bottles. “New Zealanders didn’t drink much Champagne back then,” Adele says. “After visiting the Champagne district in France and learning about the process and the time and work that goes into a bottle of méthode traditionelle, I realised we needed to educate people so they could understand the tradition and process behind the wine and that what they were buying was a quality product.”

That quality also spoke for itself. The first wine, a classic blend NV, was followed by the 1985 vintage Blanc de Blancs, which caught the eye of the top wine judge in the country.

He implored people to “sell their dog and mortgage the house” to buy a case. Two days later they had sold all 1,000 cases.

CELEBRATE

This came despite a series of events that threatened to derail their business. On July 10, 1985, just before the release of their first wine, the flagship of the Greenpeace fleet, Rainbow Warrior, was bombed by a branch of the French foreign intelligence service. As the only French winemaker in New Zealand at the time, the family faced a backlash, Adele says. “On a trip to Wellington on Bastille Day we were called terrorists, a lasting memory for our daughter Virginie, who was five at the time. There were reports of people pouring Bollinger and other Champagnes down the drain in Auckland. The timing couldn’t have been worse, but we managed to turn it around by calling our Méthode Traditionelle, ‘New Zealand’s Champagne’, and encouraging people to buy it.”

In the 1980s, times were tough after the radical economic reform and deregulation of Rogernomics caused mass unemployment and interest rates to rise up to 23%. At the same time, investors flooded the newly deregulated sharemarket and fortunes were made. Then on October 20, 1987, the Black Tuesday stock market crash changed everything. “From the economic downturn due to Rogernomics and the stock market crash in 1987, to phylloxera and the global financial crisis in 2009, we’ve dealt with many outside forces that have put the business in jeopardy,” Adele says. “We are now facing the coronavirus pandemic and are fortunate to have our past learnings to draw on.”

The family business has been through some financially shaky times, down to 30% ownership at one point after having to sell shares in the business to free up capital. In 1987 they formed a partnership with Regal Salmon and its managing director at the time, Terry Shagin, who remains a dear friend to this day, Adele says. “We have worked our way back up and No.1 Family Estate is 100% family owned, which is something we’re very proud of.”

There have been some massive highlights over the past 40 years as well. Daniel was recognised by the French Government for his diplomacy work in helping to restore French-New Zealand relations after the bombing of the Rainbow Warrior, for which he was awarded the New Zealand equivalent of a knighthood, the Chevalier Order of Merit for services to France in 1997. In 2006 he was awarded the Chevalier order of Agricole, for services to viticulture.

The original wine brand Daniel Le Brun was sold in 1996 and is now owned by Lion Nathan. Launched on Bastille Day 1999, the family established its current brand, No 1 Family Estate, in recognition of the many ‘firsts’ in New Zealand wine they had achieved.

Kat Pickford has written this and other wine stories for Marlborough District Council's heritage trails project. https://bit.ly/3mvgaQS

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Winepress December 2020 / 29

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Biosecurity Watch Keep your eyes open this summer SOPHIE BADLAND

AS THE end of the year rapidly approaches and another busy growing season is underway, New Zealand Winegrowers would like to take the opportunity to remind members to stay vigilant for unwanted pests and diseases, notably the brown marmorated stink bug, and to keep an eye out for recent invader the harlequin ladybird, particularly in the lead-up to harvest.

Brown marmorated stink bug The brown marmorated stink bug (BMSB) is one of New Zealand’s most unwanted exotic pests, and not just for the wine industry. Not only does it feed voraciously on a wide range of horticultural crops, it is also a social nuisance pest in its invaded range overseas, where it overwinters inside people’s houses in large numbers. Native to China, Japan and Korea, it has spread across the United States and into Europe, devastating many horticultural areas in its wake. It has also recently established in Chile, the first known southern hemisphere population. The high risk season for BMSB in New Zealand is from September to April each year, when overwintering aggregations of BMSB in the northern hemisphere seek shelter in vehicles, machinery, shipping containers and the personal effects of travellers. They are then inadvertently transported across the world, arriving on our shores to warmer

conditions likely to be suitable for population establishment.

Fortunately, our biosecurity system and strong public awareness about this pest have so far managed to prevent BMSB from becoming established in New Zealand.

Treatment for high risk commodities such as vehicles and machinery is now also required pre-export to New Zealand, which has helped reduce the number of live BMSB arriving at the border over the past two high risk seasons.

BMSB has, however, snuck into New Zealand on multiple occasions as a hitchhiker on imported goods, including inside international mail packages carrying everything from protein powder to Barbie dolls. In December 2018, a member of the public in Oamaru opened a box of shoes they’d purchased from the USA via eBay. As well as the shoes, 26 live BMSB were discovered inside the box. Luckily, the recipient suspected they were unusual, contained the bugs and called the Biosecurity New Zealand hotline. Earlier in 2018, several live BMSB were found in a consignment of newly imported machinery in Nelson.

If you are purchasing international goods online this summer, remember to open packages in an enclosed space, inspect the goods and packaging on arrival for hitchhiking insects like BMSB, and call 0800 80 99 66 if you find anything suspicious. While biosecurity screening does take place at the border, it is not practical for every parcel to be opened and checked, so it is important that everyone does what they can to help keep this pest out of New Zealand.

If you are importing vineyard or winery machinery or equipment, the same applies; unpack it and inspect it in a shed or other enclosed space, check the packaging too and call the hotline if you find anything. Finally, keep an eye out in the vineyard and on your holiday travels around New Zealand.

Harlequin ladybird Native to Asia, the harlequin ladybird first arrived in

IF YOU SEE ANYTHING UNUSUAL

CATCH IT . SNAP IT . REPORT IT .

Call MPI biosecurity hotline 0800 80 99 66 30 / Winepress December 2020

CELEBRATE

An adult harlequin ladybird feeds on an aphid. Image credit: Plant Health and Environment Laboratory, MPI

Auckland in 2016. Upon receiving notification of its arrival, the Ministry for Primary Industries (MPI) undertook an investigation and found it already too widespread for an eradication attempt to have any reasonable chance of success. Since then, it has spread rapidly and can now be found throughout the country, including in all wine regions.

The harlequin ladybird is a generalist predator (aphids being its preferred prey) known to feed on damaged fruit, including wine grapes, when other food sources are limited.

Overseas, grape clusters infested with harlequin ladybird have been linked to taint and unpleasant odours in wine.

When under attack or crushed, the harlequin releases an odour made up of several methoxypyrazines. If the ladybirds aggregate in the vines at harvest, they may be harvested along with the grapes and contaminate any wine produced with ‘ladybird taint’. To date New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) is not aware of any local instances where harlequin ladybirds have aggregated in the fruit prior to harvest, but growers should be aware of the possibility and monitor accordingly.

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In the spring and summer, harlequin ladybirds in low numbers in and around the vineyard are nothing to be concerned about. Regular surveillance is key - walking the rows and checking within developing clusters, particularly in any blocks with proximity to willow trees (giant willow aphids are a preferred prey). As close as possible to harvest, make a final check, and if any ladybirds are aggregating in the bunches, a gentle shake should dislodge them – don’t spray them.

NZW, the Bragato Research Institute and Plant & Food Research are currently undertaking a monitoring project in some Nelson, Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough vineyards to monitor harlequin numbers throughout the growing season. This monitoring is to find out more about when the ladybirds are moving in and out of vineyards, and what they are using them for (feeding, reproduction, development through larval stages, pupation, etc). The results of the project will be shared with members next year when yearround monitoring has been completed, and will help to inform the next steps for management or control of this potential vineyard pest.

If you are seeing large numbers of harlequin ladybirds in the vineyard at any stage in the season, please get in touch with the New Zealand Winegrowers biosecurity team – call Sophie on 027 700 4142, Jim Herdman on 027 644 8010, or email biosecurity@nzwine.com.

If you think you see a BMSB, catch it, snap it, and report it.

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Industry News Wine Marlborough update VANCE KERSLAKE The Environment Court has confirmed the order in which appeals will be considered on the Marlborough Environment Plan decisions.

Water allocation and use, the key topic for irrigation takes, is in Group 4 - water and soil resources. These appeals will be heard after the topics of natural character/ landscape; indigenous biodiversity; public access and open space; cultural matters and heritage; utilities and transportation; natural hazards, air quality, energy and climate change, and nuisance effects have all been heard. There is no timetable at the moment.

As part of the appeals process, the Marlborough District Council (MDC) has commissioned an external review on options for implementing the National Policy Statement and National Environmental Standard for Freshwater. Council will then assess the impact on the appeals. The Court has directed MDC must set out its position on the National Policy Standards for Freshwater Management at least 20 working days prior to any mediation on that topic.

The third and final monthly vintage update for the year was sent out at the end of November (see the ‘Resources’ section at wine-marlborough.co.nz). Wineries are increasingly concerned about their ability to recruit enough staff for vintage. Some innovative approaches are being taken, including recruiting more permanent staff across viticulture and the winery, running open days and joining up work across industries and in some cases across regions.

Wine Marlborough, along with the Marlborough Recognised Seasonal Employer (RSE) scheme employers and the Regional Labour Governance Group, have been working closely together to scope what the remainder of the summer workforce will potentially look like. Feedback from

growers and wine companies is that they are not overly concerned.

One last piece of news is that, after three years at Wine Marlborough, I made the difficult decision to change jobs.

I am joining the Ministry of Business, Innovation and Employment as regional lead – Marlborough, supporting the interim Regional Skills Leadership Group. Thanks to everyone for their support during my time as advocacy manager.

The next Marlborough Winegrowers meeting with council is in the new year. If you have any issues you want us to raise, please email Wine Marlborough general manager Marcus Pickens at marcus@winemarlborough.nz Forrest Wines Sunday Sessions Head to Forrest Wines for music and wine on lazy Sunday afternoons this summer. Cheese platters will be available on site, or bring along a picnic. On from 1pm to 4pm each Sunday from December 13 through to February 28. Check Facebook for updates or phone 03 5729084

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Southern Pinot Noir Workshop Registrations are now open for the 30th Southern Pinot Workshop, to be held in Hanmer Springs from January 21 to 24. The workshop has been instrumental in improving viticultural and winemaking practices for Pinot Noir and greatly improving the overall quality of the variety in New Zealand. Topics covered at the workshop will include continuing to “thrive and strive” in the new Covid-19 world. The guest speaker is Damian Martin, leader of Plant & Food Research’s Viticulture and Oenology Group in Marlborough. With a PhD in Oenology and Viticultural Science from Bordeaux University, his research focussed on grapevine ecophysiology, in particular soil moisture influences on grape and wine quality attributes. Damian oversees a number of research programmes and was instrumental in the establishment of the Bragato Research Institute Pinot Noir Programme which is attempting to decode the yield-quality paradigm. pinotworkshop.com

Seasonal worker border exception New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) has welcomed the Government’s announcement that 2000 workers under the Recognised Seasonal Employer (RSE) scheme will be granted access into New Zealand from January, to help with harvest and pruning work during 2021, in wine and horticulture. “We have been working constructively with the Government to find a solution that balances our industry’s need for skilled workers to complete time sensitive vineyard operations, against the high demand from Kiwis for places in managed isolation and quarantine,” says NZW Chief Executive Philip Gregan.

Caption Windrush harvest, pre lockdown.

He says the Photo Richard Briggs Government has made clear that it regards the primary sector as a key partner in achieving its objectives, and NZW has committed to a range of forward-looking measures that will help deliver more opportunities for New Zealanders in the wine sector. “Our industry employs up to 8000 seasonal workers at its peak.

Despite our efforts to recruit workers in New Zealand, the projected shortage of workers has been a real concern as we edge closer to next year’s harvest and plan for the critical winter pruning.” The exception will help the New Zealand wine industry access the supply of labour it needs, at the time it needs it, he says, “and ensure we can continue to make our world-renowned premium quality wine”.

Blood Sweat and Beers

Annual Report

Heavy rainfall and sodden trails led to the postponement of the annual Blood Sweat and Beers inter-winery offroad cycle championships last month.

“Rest assured the event will still take place,” says committee member Nick Entwistle, promising a new date in the new year. The delay is a perfect opportunity for winery folk to get a few more training rides in over the summer, he says.

The Marlborough Winegrowers Annual Report was presented at last months’ AGM. Find the report in the news section of wine-marlborough.co.nz.

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A summer Feast Feast Marlborough is gearing up to coordinate a series of events for Marlborough’s usually busy summer period, to help offset the impact of Covid-19 on Marlborough’s economy. The series, which is funded by the Marlborough District Council as part of The Economic Action

Marlborough (TEAM) group, will see Feast Marlborough work with venues, food producers and event organisers to develop events during February and March. They are calling on venues and food and beverage related businesses to create unique offerings and collaborate with other local suppliers to develop something that locals and visitors will support in numbers, then go on to talk about.

Councillor Mark Peters, chair of TEAM, says Feast Marlborough is “perfectly placed” to encourage local producers and venues to put on some great events. “TEAM has identified Marlborough’s tourism, retail and hospitality sectors have been particularly hard-hit by Covid-19 and supporting businesses from these sectors is a priority,” he says. “A number of investments have been made in promotion, buy local and events, and Summer Feast will reinforce this.” Feast Marlborough chair Fiona Fenwick says the aim is to help ensure Marlborough is “buzzing” over summer. “We have a skilled and experienced team who will be reaching out to all those operating in the food and beverage sector in Marlborough and we can’t wait to see what ideas and opportunities there will be for all to enjoy.”

Contact info@feastmarlborough.nz or call Fiona on 021 725 779.

Winning pie a “hot” choice “Not to mince words, but this is a prize worth savouring”, said Astrolabe chief winemaker Simon Waghorn on winning the 2020 Great Burleigh Pie Pairing Challenge. Astrolabe’s Spätlese Riesling 2017 was paired with The Burleigh’s Jamaican Lamb Pie to take the win, after judges sampled 47 matches. Pairing the spiciest pie in the range with the sweeter wine brought out the best in both, said challenge co-founder and chief judge Fiona Fenwick and celebrity judge Jesse Mulligan.

Astrolabe’s Jane Waghorn-Forrest says the team (pictured) organised “extensive” testing of Burleigh pies with the Astrolabe range of wines. She was delighted the Spätlese 34 / Winepress December 2020

Riesling won as it’s from her family’s home vineyard, which is being converted to organics.

Fiona says what started as a few friends getting together over a pie and deciding it was about time to take wine pie matching seriously has turned into something special in the Marlborough community. This year every cent of the entry fees - $2,350 – has been donated to the Marlborough Foodbank.

Jesse Mulligan - one of New Zealand’s most recognised broadcasters and a highly regarded restaurant critic – said in all his years of enjoying pies, he’d seen nothing to compare to the line-up. “These Marlborough wines and other drinks are all fantastic in their own right, but they are on the verge of sublime when matched with these iconic pies.”

Diploma in Horticulture Production Enrolments are open for the 2021 intake of the New Zealand Diploma in Horticulture Production, which is a Level 6 NZQA-accredited course available online and nationwide through Fruition Horticulture. The fees-free two-year programme has been designed to develop the skills and knowledge of people employed in the industry, so they can contribute at a senior technical or managerial level. “This programme is aimed at people who already have several years of industry experience and who are highly motivated to advance their careers and take advantage of management opportunities as they arise,” says Fruition Horticulture managing director Sandy Scarrow (pictured). “We’re

GORW

thrilled to be supporting working professionals fulfil their passion for horticulture by equipping them with the skills they’ll need to operate at a more senior level.”

Students are expected to remain employed during the university-level programme, with course content delivered online to fit around their work. Fees will be covered under the Targeted Training and Apprenticeship Fund (TTAF), which provides an avenue for students wanting to upgrade their tertiary qualifications or transfer from other industries.

Sandy says the Level 6 programme demonstrates Fruition’s commitment to upskilling people who have a love for horticulture. “We share their passion for horticulture and are here to support people throughout their career.” Phone (07) 928 5350 or visit fruition.ac.nz to learn more.

BRI commercial sponsor The Bragato Research Institute (BRI) has secured the first commercial sponsor in the new research winery, joining founding sponsors Crown Sheetmetal and Vinwizard.

Hill Laboratories has signed on for five years as the naming rights sponsor for the basket press, one of several innovative pieces of new equipment being readied for the 2021 harvest. Like many items in the winery, the press is on wheels, which allows for maximum options for use with minimum hoses, amongst the custom-made 200-litre tanks. “Responding to industry needs is the core of what we do here,” says BRI chief executive MJ Loza. “In turn, it’s great to have industry supporting us and to be able to offer opportunities for sponsors. We’re delighted to have Hill Laboratories join forces with us.”

Hill Laboratories chief executive Dr Jonathan Hill says the company is looking forward to supporting New Zealand’s viticulture and wine industries, which are “going

from strength to strength”, via its laboratories in Blenheim and Hamilton.

BRI opened its research winery in February this year, enabling the research institute and industry to trial new technology and innovation, as well as look at the impact of vineyard trials on finished wines. For more information on partnering with BRI, contact the business development manager at augusta.vanwijk@bri.co.nz

Renwick wine trail Wheels are in motion for the final stages of the Renwick wine trail, which will traverse 23.9km of the area’s vineyards and cellar doors.

The Marlborough District Council’s Assets and Services Committee has approved $1,045,000 from council’s existing long-term walking and cycling budget to complete the trail, conditional on easements being secured with landowners. This is in addition to $225,000 already allocated in the council’s 2020/21 budget.

Committee chair Nadine Taylor says the completion of the multi-use trail will provide welcome recreational opportunities for Marlborough residents and visitors. “Council’s Walking and Cycling Strategy aims to maximise off-road walk and cycle opportunities for tourism and recreation.” She says the funding decision achieves both. “It will help realise the long-held community vision for the Renwick wine trail, while providing an exciting new tourism offering for Marlborough.”

There are already 15.2km of existing shared use paths in the Renwick area for walkers and cyclists, including 11.5km on council-managed stop banks or on private land, she says. “This final section of trail will add an extra 8.7km and we are very appreciative of the support already shown by local landowners for this community project.”

Steve Hill from Bike Walk Renwick says in these challenging times recreational facilities such as biking and walking trails may not be seen as essential, but this is a great opportunity to position Marlborough for future tourism growth that also benefits locals. “Having a top class off-road multi-use trail network through stunning vineyards in this world-renowned wine region can only help to draw visitors and also gets locals out exploring their own backyard.”

Destination Marlborough general manager Jacqui Lloyd says many visitors from New Zealand and around the world visit the region to partake in the cellar door offerings in and around the Renwick area. “Safe access to cellar doors is key to the future of Marlborough’s visitor experience, and as a marketing organisation we are very supportive of initiatives and ventures that provide engaging experiences for visitors to participate in and to encourage them to stay longer and spend more.”

The committee decision was subject to confirmation at the next council meeting on December 10.

Winepress December 2020 / 35

Wine Happenings A monthly list of events within the New Zealand wine industry.

To have your event included in January's Wine Happenings, please email details to sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz by December 12. Due to uncertainty around Covid-19, there may be changes to some of these events. For more information, please use the contact supplied or email sarah@winemarlborough.nz

DECEMBER 1 Destination Marlborough Qualmark Digital Capability Workshop 2 Biodynamic Association Workshop, Seresin Estate (biodynamic.org.nz) 4 Launch of New Zealand Winegrowers Visit the Vines Scan and Win giveaway 13 Forrest Wines Sunday Sessions, through to February 28 - see page 33 for more JANUARY 8 Friday night at Fromm, 5pm to 8pm through to February 12 (frommwinery.co.nz) 21 - 24 Southern Pinot Workshop (pinotworkshop.com) FEBRUARY 5 NZ Rosé Day 12 Les Nuits Romantiques at Clos Henri (closhenri.com) 13 FROMM’s Wine and Food Festival (frommwinery.co.nz) APRIL 24 Whitehaven GrapeRide (graperide.co.nz) MAY 7 8

#SauvBlancDay 2021 Saint Clair Vineyard Half (vineyardhalf.com)

Sunday Sessions Dec 13

GrapeRide April 24

Vineyard Half May 8

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36 / Winepress December 2020

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