Winepress February 2017

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THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF WINE MARLBOROUGH

ISSUE NO. 266 / FEBRUARY 2017

WELCOME BACK

EARTHQUAKE UPDATE

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18

this issue... REGULARS

FEATURES

3 4

11 Yields

Editorial

From the Board - Rhyan Wardman

6

Tasman Crop Met Report

20

Gen Y-ine - Jade Rogge

22

The Block - Forrest Estate

24

Biosecurity Watch

26

Industry News

30

ANZ Wine Happenings

“Roller coaster” temperatures over flowering have resulted in poor fruit set in Marlborough’s Sauvignon Blanc vines, resulting in lower yield estimates.

12 Earthquake Update

20

Insurance experts have estimated insured winery losses of around $200 to $250 million from November’s Kaikoura earthquake.

14 White Paper

Cover: International wine influencers checked out Marlborough, including Wither Hills’ Rarangi vineyard (pg 10), in the lead up to Pinot Noir 2017. Photo by Jim Tannock.

26

A new report looks at the opportunities and challenges associated with the wine sector’s growth over the next five years, including the need for more accommodation, suitable pastoral care and the development of the labour force.

22

18 Training

Career opportunities are ripe for the picking when it comes to Marlborough’s wine industry, says a training advisor with the Primary Industry Training Organisation (ITO).

Winepress December 2016 / 1


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General Manager: Marcus Pickens 03 577 9299 marcus@wine-marlborough.co.nz Editor: Sophie Preece 027 308 4455 sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz Advertising: Harriet Wadworth 03 577 9299 harriet@wine-marlborough.co.nz Wine Marlborough Board: Ben Ensor ben.lisa@clear.net.nz Callum Linklater callumandsarah@xtra.co.nz Jack Glover jack.glover@accolade-wines.co.nz Michael Wentworth michael.wentworth@yealands.co.nz Nick Entwistle nick@wairauriverwines.co.nz Rhyan Wardman (Chair) rhyan@giesen.co.nz Samantha Wickham samantha@ormondnurseries.co.nz Simon Bishell (Deputy Chair) simon@caythorpe.nz Stuart Dudley stuartd@villamaria.co.nz Tom Trolove tom.trolove@framingham.co.nz Printed by: Blenheim Print Ltd 03 578 1322

From the Editor IT WAS a summer to remember, if only because it was impossible to forget. The earth shook, roads crumbled and tanks toppled, then clouds gathered, rain fell, and the wind, it blew and blew. But if November’s earthquake, December’s rain and January’s wind were a test of resilience, Marlborough’s wine industry and supporting sectors have come through with flying colours, tougher for having been tried. The 7.8 magnitude earthquake carried an estimated insurance tab of up to $250 million, based on damage to tank farm infrastructure and barrelled or finished stock. However, the industry is heading into Vintage 2017 in relatively good shape, thanks to the coordinated efforts of transport operators, tank manufacturers, engineers and winery staff, to create short-term fixes, and longterm plans. Work being done to improve the region’s wineries for the future will mean their people, and their product, will be safer. New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) Chief Executive Philip Gregan says it appears that wineries have their plans in place for repair and/or replacement, temporary or permanent, and are working “flat out” to be as ready as they possibly can for Vintage 17. “I haven’t heard any negatives in terms of major problems that people have, or unexpected problems that people are facing…So I think it’s proceeding as well as can be expected.” NZW’s pre-vintage survey went out in early February, including questions about crop expectations and whether the earthquake impacted on anticipated grape intake. “When we did the survey back in November, we were asking whether they thought it would impact. Now we’re in a position to ask whether it actually will.” However, at the turn of last month, Philip was more focussed on the international media and wine trade flooding into New Zealand to explore the country’s diverse regions and wine styles. NZW hosted more than 90 international wine experts from around 20 countries at the Aromatics Symposium in Nelson, Pinot Noir NZ 2017 in Wellington, and Classic Reds in Hawke’s Bay. “New Zealand may produce less than 1% of the world’s wine but we are attracting serious global attention,” says Philip. “The events come at a time when New Zealand wine exports are riding high, exceeding a record $1.6 billion.” Around 20 of the international visitors came to Marlborough the week before the event, for a “welcome back” to the province, its wines and the people and environment that make them. And, of course, the sun shone every day. SOPHIE PREECE

Disclaimer: The views and articles that are expressed and appear in Winepress are entirely those of contributors and in no way reflect the policy of the Marlborough Winegrowers. Any advice given, implied or suggested should be considered on its merits, and no responsibility can be taken for problems arising from the use of such information.

Winepress December 2016 / 3


From the Board Wine Marlborough’s new Chairman looks at the challenges and opportunities ahead. RHYAN WARDMAN

AS WE prepare for Vintage 2017, despite the setbacks of the earthquake late last year, it is good to remind ourselves that it is a positive time in Marlborough’s wine industry. I am fortunate to be surrounded by such a talented board, who all volunteer their time and contribute to Wine Marlborough with their ideas and guidance. Before I talk further about the challenges and opportunities ahead, it is important to take stock of where we stand. Marlborough’s wine industry covers an area of 24,000 hectares and produces around 75% of the entire New Zealand grape crop. With an asset base of approximately $4 billion, Marlborough generates $1.2b in sales per year and exports to more than 90 countries globally. Furthermore, our industry continues to expand and is projected to grow by another 6,444ha in the next five years – a 5% year-on-year growth. There is much to celebrate in this progress, as it reflects ongoing confidence by investors in our wines, our people and the greater community. A recent news report from Statistics New Zealand highlighted that the top of the south and the West Coast had the lowest unemployment rate in New Zealand in the September quarter. These regions are alone in showing “significant change in unemployment rate over the year”. Further evidence of the increasing importance of our wine industry, and indeed Marlborough’s contribution, can be seen by the Government’s recent decision to invest $12.5m in a Research Institute for Viticulture and Oenology, to be established in Blenheim. We have experienced significant growth periods in the past, but we are now coming off a higher base, and consequences of this growth - such as labour supply, accommodation, 4 / Winepress February 2017

pastoral care, finite water resources and developing sustainable by-product processes - are all challenges to be met. However, we have met obstacles in the past and created opportunity from them, and I have full confidence in our capability and desire to do the right thing for our people and the broader community. I would like to take the opportunity to touch on a few of the challenges we face and how there is already evidence of effective solutions. As mentioned, greater labour demand puts pressure on existing infrastructure and resources. It is imperative that we proactively plan and invest to ensure we create a fair and equitable working and community environment. We have a duty of care to ensure that all who are involved in our industry - be it permanent or temporary, directly or indirectly – are treated professionally and ethically. Late last year Wine Marlborough called a Labour Summit to present to our members the Marlborough Labour Market Survey conducted by Druce and Associates. As a result of this summit, and as requested by our members, we formed a steering group tasked with developing a White Paper for the community and key organisations, including Marlborough’s Primary Health Organisation, Marlborough District Council (MDC), the Ministry of Social Development, Ministry of Business, Innovation and Employment, and Splice Consulting. This work is being co-funded by Wine Marlborough and MDC. The steering group and an invited group met in late November to adopt the paper and agree on the recommended work streams. The aspirations of the White Paper are considerable and have been divided into six work streams that cover key themes, including workforce planning and development,

promoting good employment practices, accommodation, pastoral care, adoption of socially responsible practices, and communication and engagement. Each theme has strategies and organisations we want to see lead and develop the work further. Despite concerns around housing shortages, we have seen a number of RSE-accredited labour contractors making significant investments in accommodation infrastructure. This is an efficient and proactive solution that is encouraging to see. This accommodation will be complemented with facilities for outside-of-hours activities – an integral part of pastoral care. Nicolette Prendergast of Wine Marlborough provides an invaluable role as the Regional Seasonal Labour Coordinator and we aim to bolster this service to meet the increasing numbers coming into our industry and community. Sustainable Winemaking covers all aspects of the supply chain including grape marc. This has long been viewed as a waste stream and the potential benefits not fully appreciated. Our district council has made it clear that this issue requires an industry solution and that environmental breaches will not be tolerated. In my view, both these expectations are reasonable. We have been here before with Wine Marlborough contributing funds towards developing an industry-wide solution back in 2014. This stalled, but there were plenty of learnings that perhaps should be revisited. There are a number of uses identified for this beneficial by-product, such as using grape marc to produce a nutrient


enriched compost or as a mulch. This minimises waste, reduces disposal costs and produces a sustainable and cost effective vineyard fertiliser. Wine Marlborough also made a submission on behalf of its members towards the Marlborough Environment Plan, with particular focus on water allocation and use. Aside from the events supported by Wine Marlborough, such as Silver Secateurs, the Tonnellerie de Mercurey New Zealand Young Winemaker and Bayer Young Viticulturist competitions, and the Sauvignon Blanc Yacht Race and Marlborough Wine and Food Festival, it also sponsors the NMIT Viticulture Scholarship, International Sauvignon Blanc Celebration, Cawthron Marlborough Environment Awards, Marlborough Falcon Trust and Marlborough Wine Show. Wine Marlborough also supported Pinot Noir 2017 in Wellington earlier this month - a superb event that showcased the very best of what we do. It enabled us to show our visiting colleagues from around the world that, even in the wake of earthquakes, our

focus on growing and making worldclass wines is unwavering. The Geographical Indications (Wines and Spirits) Registration Amendment Bill was introduced into Parliament in November 2015. Alongside New Zealand Winegrowers, Wine Marlborough is undertaking the registration of the GI “Marlborough”. We expect to undertake consultation with our members soon and table the Board’s recommendation. This neatly segues to another project Wine Marlborough is exploring. We are investigating options for a regional quality mark, and looking at what producers from other regions around the world do to protect and elevate their collective brand. Such a quality mark must be endorsed by our markets, be meaningful in its selection criteria and unambiguous when challenged. Another area of focus for Wine Marlborough concerns education. We have a skills shortage in our industry, driven by the continued growth as mentioned. It covers the entire winemaking process, from

the vineyard through to bottling. This challenge creates an exciting opportunity to support learning institutions, to better explain what we do and how career paths can be developed at school level, through apprentice-based programmes and through tertiary-based courses. However, it shouldn’t stop there. Leadership programmes within the industry enable professional and technical development. They help retain interest, build intellectual property and challenge our talent to excel. I hope what has been detailed captures in some way the scope and commitment that the small team of Wine Marlborough undertake. Indeed, as we grow, the role of Wine Marlborough must evolve to meet future challenges and be resourced appropriately. I welcome feedback and can be contacted anytime on 021 311 244. Cheers!

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Winepress February 2017 / 5


Table 1: Blenheim Weather Data – December 2016 December December 2016 December Period December 2016 Compared LTA of LTA 2015 to LTA GDD’s for: Month - Max/Min¹ 207.0 97% 213.9 (1996-2015) 184.3 Month – Mean² 202.6 97% 209.5 (1996-2015) 187.6 Growing Degree Days Total Jul – Dec 16 – Max/Min 575.9 106% 542.7 (1996-2015) 510 Jul - Dec 16 – Mean 608.6 103% 591.9 (1996-2015) 568.6 Mean Maximum (°C) 21.7 -0.2°C 21.9 (1986-2015) 21.3 Mean Minimum (°C) 11.6 = 11.6 (1986-2015) 10.6 Mean Temp (°C) 16.7 -0.1°C 16.8 (1986-2015) 15.9 Ground Frosts (<= -1.0°C) 0 - 0.1 (1986-2015) 0 Air Frosts (0.0°C) 0 - 0 (1986-2015) 0 Sunshine hours 253.0 103% 246.3 (1930-2015) 294.5 Sunshine hours – lowest 167.4 2011 Sunshine hours – highest 321.2 1974 Sunshine hours total – 2016 2591.3 105% 2462 (1930-2015) 2813.7 Rainfall (mm) 20.2 42% 47.8 (1930-2015) 17.4 Rainfall (mm) – lowest 0.8 1934 Rainfall (mm) – highest 124.0 1984 Rainfall total (mm) – 2016 591.2 92% 639.7 (1930-2015) 381.6 Evapotranspiration – mm 153.7 110% 139.7 (1996-2015) 147.7 Avg. Daily Windrun (km) 274.2 94% 290.3 (1996-2015) 275.8 Mean soil temp – 10cm 17.5 -0.2°C 17.7 (1986-2015) 18.3 Mean soil temp – 30cm 18.9 -0.3°C 19.2 (1986-2015) 20.0 ¹GDD’s Max/Min are calculated from absolute daily maximum and minimum temperatures ²GDD’s Mean are calculated from average hourly temperatures

December 2016 recorded close to average temperatures and sunshine hours, but well below average rainfall The data in table 2 indicate that the first week of December was 1.0°C cooler than average, with the daily maximums well below average. The second week was also slightly cooler than average. The third week finally brought some warmer temperatures, with both the daily maximums and minimums well above average. However, the final 10 days of December were slightly cooler than average, with both the daily maximums and minimums below average. The Maximum temperature during December 2016 was 26.8°C recorded on 27 December. The Minimum temperature during December 2016 was 5.6°C recorded on 13 December. December 2016 is the fifth year in a row (2012-2016) in which December has recorded well below average rainfall. In contrast to December 2010 and 2011 which both recorded well above average rainfall. After above average rainfall in November 2016, shallow soil moisture (5-35 cm) started the month

Table 2: Summary of weekly temperatures, rainfall and sunshine during December 2016 1st - 7th 8th - 14th 15th - 21st 22nd - 28th 29th – 31st (3 days) 1st – 31st December LTA 1986-2015 6 / Winepress February 2017

Mean Max Mean Min (°C) (°C) 20.4 (-1.5) 11.1 (-0.5) 21.0 (-0.9) 11.9 (+0.3) 23.9 (+2.0) 12.9 (+1.3) 21.7 (-0.2) 10.9 (-0.7) 21.4 (-0.5) 11.2 (-0.4) 21.7 (-0.2°C ) 11.6 (=LTA) 21.9 11.6

Mean (°C) 15.8 (1.0) 16.4 (-0.4) 18.4 (+1.6) 16.3 (-0.5) 16.3 (-0.5) 16.7 (-0.1°C) 16.8

Rainfall Sunshine (mm) (hours) 0.8 42.2 6.4 46.3 0.0 83.6 13.0 56.0 0.0 24.9 20.2 42% 253.0 103% 48.0 246.2


Total rainfall for 2016 was 591.2 mm. This was 92% of the long term average (1930-2015). In contrast 2015 rainfall was only 381.6 mm, (209.6 mm less rainfall than 2016). However, you need to bear in mind that 2015 is Blenheim’s driest year on record. Four months recorded well above average rainfall (January, May, June and November). Two months recorded close to average rainfall (March and October). Six months recorded well below average rainfall (February, April, July, August, September and December).

on track to either equal or break the 1998 temperature record. However, the 10 days from 22 to 31 December 2016 were cool, and pulled the overall mean temperature for the year down just enough to push it into second place. Ten months in 2016 recorded above average mean temperatures (Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Sep, Oct, Nov); Two months recorded below average mean temperatures (August and December). The hottest day of 2016 was 25 February with 32.2°C. Only two days in 2016 reached 30.0°C in Blenheim. However, there were a further eight days that recorded between 29 and 30°C. The coldest day of 2016 was 9 August with an air frost of -2.1°C and a ground frost of -5.1°C. Interestingly the coldest day of 2015 was 10 August with an air frost of -3.0°C and a ground frost of -5.1°C.

Temperature

Frosts

The mean temperature for 2016 was 13.93°C; 0.81°C above the long term average for the 30 years 19862015, of 13.12°C. 2016 is now the second hottest year on record in Blenheim for the 87 years 1930-2016. 1998 retains its position as the hottest year on record with a mean temperature of 13.95°C. Up until mid-December 2016 Blenheim was

Blenheim recorded 45 ground and 9 air frosts in 2015. This is well below the long-term average number of 52.2 ground and 19.3 air frosts. The number of frosts in 2016 was also well below the 62 ground and 25 air frosts recorded in 2015, but close to the number of frosts recorded in 2013 and 2014.

on 27.1%. However, with low rainfall during December the soil moisture fell to 17.1% by the end of the month. Annual weather statistics for Blenheim for 2016, compared to the long-term average Rainfall

Table 3: Monthly rainfall recorded in Blenheim for 2016, compared to the long-term average Month Rainfall % of long Long-term mm term avaerage average (mm) 1930-2015 January 69.2 144% 48.1 February 18 42% 43.1 March 46.8 108% 43.4 April 25.6 48% 53.2 May 89.2 141% 63.3 June 76.8 127% 60.4 July 34.8 55% 63.3 August 39.2 62% 62.8 September 26.4 52% 51.2 October 58.6 104% 56.6 November 86.4 185% 46.8 December 20.2 42% 48.1 Total (Jan-Dec) 591.2 92.3% 640.2

Wind-run Average daily wind-run for 2016 was 238.5 km, compared to the longterm average of 258.4 km (1996-2015). This is the ninth year in a row (20082016) that Blenheim has recorded lower than average daily wind-run. Two months in 2016 recorded above average daily wind-run (May and July). The other 10 months recorded below average wind-run. It is interesting that July was the windiest month of 2016 (285.4 km), with slightly higher daily wind-run than November (275.2 km) and December (274.2 km) 2016. Traditionally October and November have been the windiest months of the year in Blenheim. January 2017 Weather January 2017 was warmer than normal, with above average sunshine hours, well above average wind-run and evapotranspiration, and well below average rainfall. Temperature The January mean temperature of 18.4°C was 0.3°C above the longterm average. In Met Report one year ago it was reported that “January 2016 temperatures were all over the place, from quite cold to very hot.” That statement equally applies to January 2017. The coolest maximum temperature was 16.1°C recorded on the 2nd January. The hottest maximum was 29.3°C recorded on Wednesday 11th and this was followed by a very warm overnight minimum of 19.4°C. In contrast the coolest minimum overnight temperature was 4.3°C recorded on the 5th January. The grass minimum on 5 January was -0.4°C, not quite an official ground frost, but nonetheless below zero (temperatures below -1.0°C are recorded as ground frosts). This is the first time that the grass minimum temperature in January has been below zero, in the 46 years 1972-2017. The mean temperature for the first week of January 2017 was 2.5°C below January’s long-term average. The second week was a complete reversal Winepress February 2017 / 7


Table 4: Blenheim Weather Data – January 2017 January January 2017 2017 compared to LTA GDD’s for: Month - Max/Min¹ 260.5 105% Month – Mean2 258.0 108% Growing Degree Days Total Jul 16 – Jan 17 – Max/Min¹ 836.4 106% Jul 16 - Jan 17 – Mean² 866.6 104% Mean Maximum (°C) 23.9 +0.5°C Mean Minimum (°C) 12.9 +0.2°C Mean Temp (°C) 18.4 +0.3°C Ground Frosts (<= -1.0°C) 0 Equal Air Frosts (0.0°C) 0 Equal Sunshine hours 282.0 108% Sunshine hours – lowest Sunshine hours – highest Sunshine hours total – 2017 282.0 108% Rainfall (mm) 27.2 56% Rainfall (mm) – lowest Rainfall (mm) – highest Rainfall total (mm) – 2017 27.2 56% Evapotranspiration – mm 181.5 129% Avg. Daily Windrun (km) 336.3 123% Mean soil temp – 10cm 19.1 +0.1°C Mean soil temp – 30cm 20.9 +0.1°C

January LTA

Period of LTA

January 2016

248.1 239.5

(1996-2016) (1996-2016)

272.4 257.8

790.8 831.4 23.4 12.7 18.1 0 0 261.6 165.2 335.3 261.6 48.4 0 167.0 48.4 140.3 274.3 19.0 20.8

(1996-2016) (1996-2016) 1986-2016) (1986-2016) (1986-2016) (1986-2016) (1986-2016) (1930-2016) 1971 1957 (1930-2016) (1930-2016) 1978 1985 (1930-2016) (1997-2016) (1996-2016) (1986-2016) (1986-2016)

782.4 826.4 23.3 14.2 18.0 0 0 232.8

232.8 69.2

69.2 140.4 244.8 19.4 21.6

¹GDD’s Max/Min are calculated from absolute daily maximum and minimum temperatures ²GDD’s Mean are calculated from average hourly temperatures Table 5: Weekly temperatures during January 2017 and difference from average Date 1st – 7th 8th-14th 15th-21st 22nd-28th 29th-31st 1st-31st Long-term average

Mean Max. (°C) 21.0 (-2.4) 26.0 (+2.6) 24.2 (+0.8) 23.7 (+0.3) 26.0 (+2.6) 23.9 (+0.5) 23.4

of the first week, with the mean temperature 2.4°C above January’s long-term average. The third week was warm, the fourth week was average and the final three days were hot. With all the talk in the media about what a poor summer New Zealand has been experiencing it may come as a surprise that the average daily maximum temperature for January 2017 of 23.9°C, was warmer

8 / Winepress February 2017

Mean Min (°C) 9.9 (-2.7) 14.8 (+2.2) 13.9 (+1.3) 12.4 (-0.2) 13.7 (+1.1) 12.9 (+0.2) 12.7

Mean (°C) 15.5 (-2.5) 20.4 (+2.4) 19.1 (+1.1) 18.1 (+0.1) 19.9 (+1.9) 18.4 (+0.3) 18.1

than the average daily maximum of 23.3°C in January 2016. However, the average daily minimum for January 2017 of 12.9°C was quite a bit cooler than the average daily minimum of 14.2°C in January 2016; i.e. the days were warmer and the night’s cooler in January 2017. Rainfall January 2017 only recorded 27.2

mm rain, just over half the longterm average total. Total rainfall for December 2016 and January 2017 is only 47.2 mm; 49% of the long-term average. Fortunately October and November 2016 received good rainfall, which ensured good spring pasture growth in Marlborough. Wind-run January 2017 was very windy, with average daily wind-run of 336.3 km; (average wind speed 14.0 km/hr). The long-term average is 274.3 km windrun (11.4 km/hr) over the 21 years: 1996-2016. In contrast January 2016 was very calm, only recording average daily wind-run of 244.8 km (10.2 km/ hr). The January 2017 average wind-run of 336.3 km is second highest for the 22 years 1996-2017, behind January 1998, which recorded 351 km. We can be thankful that in Marlborough most of us who live in the central Wairau Valley are very sheltered from the high winds that are experienced in exposed coastal areas of Marlborough. The average daily wind-run at the Cape Campbell weather station during January 2017 was 814.7 km; 242% of Blenheim’s average. The highest daily wind-run in Blenheim during January was 575 km, whereas the highest daily windrun at Cape Campbell was 1264 km. 27 days during January at Cape Campbell recorded a higher daily wind-run than Blenheim’s maximum of 575 km. The maximum wind-speed in Blenheim was 79.6 km/hr. The maximum windspeed at Cape Campbell was 116.6 km/ hr. Potential evapotranspiration As most readers will know, potential evapotranspiration is a means of estimating plant water use. It is calculated using the daily temperature, radiation, wind-run and relative humidity. When temperature, radiation and wind-run are high, and relative humidity is low, the potential evapotranspiration is high. Total potential evapotranspiration


Figure 1: Potential water deficit for Blenheim from July 2016 to January 2017 compared to the long-term average

for January 2017 was 181.5 mm. This is by far the highest January total on record for the 21 years 1997-2017. The previous highest total was 161.9 mm recorded in January 2012. To put the 181.5 mm potential evapotranspiration into perspective, it means that to keep a grass pasture actively growing, that for every square metre of pasture, 181.5 litres of water would need to have been supplied during January. This equates to 1,815,000 litres of water per hectare, or 1,815 m3 water/ha. An Olympic size swimming pool (50 m * 25 m * 2 m) holds 2,500 m3. The highest daily evapotranspiration total in January was 10.7 mm, recorded on 15 January. That was the day with the hottest maximum (29.4°C), the highest wind-run (575 km), the lowest relative humidity (33.1%) during January 2017 and also high radiation. Potential water deficit This is the difference between monthly rainfall and potential evapotranspiration. For January 2017: 27.2 mm rainfall – 181.5 mm potential evapotranspiration = -154.3 mm potential water deficit

This is the highest potential water deficit for January for the 21 years 19972017. January 2016 had a low water deficit (-71.2 mm) due to above average rainfall (69.2 mm) and below average potential evapotranspiration (140.4 mm). Figure 1 displays the potential water deficit for the six months July 2016 to January 2017. October 2016, with well above average rainfall, is the only month to have recorded a below average water deficit. The long-term average cumulative water deficit from July to January is -296 mm, whereas the total water deficit from July 2016 to January 2017 is -448 mm.

about half the average. Many other regions have experienced well below average temperatures and above average rainfall. Rob Agnew Plant & Food Research / Marlborough Research Centre

Summer so far in Marlborough As previously mentioned there has been a lot of talk in the media regarding what a disappointing summer New Zealand has experienced so far. However, to the end of January, Marlborough has fared much better than many other regions in New Zealand. December’s mean temperature was right on average and rainfall was less than half the average. January’s mean temperature was slightly above average and rainfall Winepress February 2017 / 9


Welcome Back Wine Marlborough extended a warm welcome to old friends last month. MARLBOROUGH WELCOMED 20 of the world’s wine influencers last month, in a regional visit before the kick-off of Pinot Noir NZ 2017 in Wellington. Wine Marlborough General Manager Marcus Pickens says the threeday experience offered a laid-back “reintroduction” to wine writers, buyers, sommeliers and judges who have long known the region. “It’s a chance for them to see the connectedness here, and to show that the corporate shadow isn’t too big over Marlborough.” The itinerary included a “Welcome Back” celebration at Ara Woolshed, a Méthode Marlborough breakfast at Hunter’s Wines, a formal tasting at the Saint Clair Vineyard Kitchen, a relaxed lunch at Wither Hills’ Rarangi Vineyard and wetland (pictured), and a MANA gathering at Waterfall Bay in the Marlborough Sounds.

Pinot people unite Wellington became a pinotphile’s paradise this month, with Pinot Noir NZ 2017 offering three days of speakers and tastings, including 115 of the country’s best Pinot producers. The event drew 600 of the world’s most influential wine writers, industry experts and imbibers, in what actor and winery owner Sam Neill (pictured with Pinot Noir NZ Chair Ben Glover) calls “a must for New Zealand’s wine industry” and anyone involved in producing, selling or writing about Pinot Noir.

10 / Winepress February 2017

“We have kept it low-key,” says Marcus. “Not smothering them with information, so they can form their own opinions along the way, but also offering the opportunity to talk to some key winemakers when they want to.”

Photos by Jim Tannock


Flowering Lower yield predictions after inclement December. SOPHIE PREECE

“ROLLER COASTER” temperatures over flowering have resulted in poor fruit set in Marlborough’s Sauvignon Blanc vines, leading to predictions of an average or below average crop this year. With budburst a week behind normal and winery space compromised by the November earthquake, a drop in vintage expectations is a welcome story to those concerned by the high inflorescence numbers counted in November last year, indicating the potential for a crop as large as 2016. Forrest Estate’s John Forrest has lost around 20% of his crop because of a long flowering period in December, which was rain-ridden with variable temperatures. “I think because there was a high bunch number, and now we have a low berry number per bunch, we may be back to an average or just below average crop,” he says, happy about that result. “Previously everyone was talking about a 2016 again, with a 20% – 25 % above average crop. Well I

think that’s gone.” In a recent Vine Facts, Marlborough Plant & Food Research A cool December has impacted on berry numbers. (MPFR) Scientist Rob Agnew called The difficult flowering period may January’s weather pattern a roller result in an increase in Millerandage, coaster of temperatures. The same or hen and chickens, in some varieties, variable temperatures occurred in where small seedless berries cluster Marlborough in December, over the alongside fertilised berries with set period of Sauvignon Blanc flowering, seeds and normal size. However, he says. Mike says that, in general, seedless Fellow MPFR Scientist Mike Sauvignon Blanc berries do not Trought says studies indicate develop to the same extent as a variety that grape vine flowering occurs like Pinot Noir, and it is less likely to approximately two days after a be a problem in Marlborough’s main weather event. A hot day might kick off the process, but a cool change a few variety. The lower yields may also be an days later can stymie it, resulting in the loss of flowers. “When you think about advantage in this slightly later season, advancing ripening a little earlier than it, grape vines are not very good at setting fruit,” he says. “Each Sauvignon might have otherwise been expected, Blanc flower has four ovaries in it. The he says. chances of getting a fertilised ovary is probably only about 10%.”

Winepress February 2017 / 11


Insurance Update The cost of the Kaikoura earthquake. INSURANCE EXPERTS have estimated insured winery losses of around $200 to $250 million from November’s Kaikoura earthquake ICIB Senior Broker Daniel Szegota says the estimate is mainly based on damage to tank farm infrastructure and barrelled or finished stock, and is substantially higher than the 2013 Seddon earthquake. “This estimate excludes Business Interruption losses, as the impact of any inability to process Vintage 2017 is not yet known.” Daniel says insured losses have also increased due to the relatively recent reduction of earthquake excesses to 2.5%, having been at 5% after the 2013 event. The current issue of concern is the impact of processing availability for the upcoming vintage, he says. “Many

wineries were proactive and now have temporary processing solutions available, with insurers making progress payments until the final costs of permanent repairs or replacements are known.” The insured losses for an inability to process the vintage are hard to quantify at this stage, with vintage size an unknown and varying policy wordings when it comes to how Business Interruption claims trigger, says Dan. “These costs will become more apparent in the coming months. However, initial indications are good, due to a pro-active approach from the outset by the industry, supporting industries and insurers alike.” Dan says the current insured losses are manageable and the impact is likely to be on underwriting controls

Daniel Szegota

only, rather than those insurers that can currently underwrite wineries moving away from the industry. “Earthquake pricing may increase marginally but a more likely scenario is a return to 5% site excesses.” That said, the two large events within three years mean insurers will be expecting a proactive approach from the industry and tank manufacturers alike to help mitigate the main types of losses in the future, says Dan. “Should a similar event occur again in the foreseeable future, with a similar outcome, underwriting controls and even the availability of insurance could become a bigger issue.”

Earthquake Economics - Marlborough District Council Strategic Planning and Economic Development Manager Neil Henry: How much is the wine industry worth to Marlborough’s economy? It is worth $1.5 billion per annum, based on Marlborough’s 75% share of New Zealand’s wine industry. There are 2,240 wine jobs in Marlborough, about 10% of Marlborough’s total employment (NZIER 2015). What are the short-term implications of the earthquake in Marlborough, as you see them? The cost of repairing damaged tanks, and the potential impact on the 2017 vintage if there is a shortage of capacity. However, there will be a boost for those Marlborough companies involved in the repair. The industry has told us it can manage any issues, which is encouraging. Could this impact on the economic development of the region? The grapes must be grown here, but it is too early to say whether there will be a long-term impact on the

12 / Winepress February 2017

winery side. A significant portion of the value of wine to our region is in its manufacturing. Many Marlborough businesses are connected to the wine industry in one way or another, and it has strong links to the visitor economy. The industry has invested heavily in Marlborough’s winery infrastructure, as they recognise the value in making wine here - from a quality, cost and brand perspective. Those values remain post-quake. How can the wine industry and local/ central Government counter this? The amazing success of the wine industry in Marlborough has been built on a strong partnership between the industry and local and central Government over a long period of time. The recent $10 million investment into the Research Institute of Viticulture and Oenology is the latest example of this enduring partnership. We all need to keep reinforcing the many benefits of keeping Marlborough at the centre of the New Zealand wine industry.


Steel Works Earthquake repairs likely to take at least 12 months. A TANK manufacturer has tripled the number of steelworkers it employs in Marlborough, following the 7.8 magnitude earthquake in November. Crown Sheetmetal currently has 65 staff in Blenheim, compared to its standard 20, having drawn in contractors from around the country, including many from the dairy industry. General Manager Andrew Horton says the damage to wineries has required all hands on deck in order to repair, build and fit tanks before the 2017 vintage. “Finding accommodation has been a big challenge, but a lot of the wineries have helped us out with homes they use for vintage staff…And of course they have been very keen to have the tradesmen there to have their wineries back on track.”

Crown is also working with stainless steel workshops in the North and South Islands to manufacture 36 standardised 140,000-litre winery tanks and another 60 tanks of 60,000l, all of which utilise the hold-down Onguard system. The industry is also working together to create enough steel band-aids for short terms fixes, to get the industry through vintage. A survey done by New Zealand Winegrowers late last year indicated that 20% of the region’s tanks were damaged or destroyed by the earthquake. Andrew says the tank builds are running to schedule and fitting will begin soon. The greater immediate demand now is for onsite repairs. “We have a number of extra staff on site doing repair work and some of that repair

Image by Jim Tannock

work is a patch up job to get them through harvest. We’ll come back before the following harvest to do a proper repair.” He says the heavy workload for stainless steel companies is likely to remain for at least 12 months.

Moving forward: Toll Marlborough Manager Callum Anderson How did the November earthquake affect wine industry clients? In terms of time, the national transport network experienced reasonably significant disruption for a number of weeks post-earthquake, as schedules were adjusted and the right amount of equipment put in place. This was exacerbated by the fact that December is a peak month for freight volume due to Christmas trading and holiday season. Transport companies have applied earthquake levies to recover some of the extra costs incurred to keep the network operational, and some of these have been up to 30% on various routes. We saw transit times increase by two to three days to some locations, which caused frustration. However, for the most part people understood the constraints we were all working with for a short period of time. Transit times have settled into more normal patterns. How much wine industry freight does Toll move and has this amount changed because of the earthquake? Wine is a significant part of Toll’s freight mix outbound from Marlborough. What we’ve experienced is

a larger amount of wine moving in bulk to various storage locations around the country, and to bottling. What makes the wine industry unique as far as transport goes is that for the most part tanks need to be empty by mid-March for the new vintage. So we generally experience peak volumes in Jan/Feb/Mar each year. The earthquake essentially bought this peak forward by two months. Will the earthquake influence vintage transport? Yes, it will. The earthquake has wide-ranging impacts for example, with more roading contractor crews based in Marlborough, there is pressure on accommodation during harvest, and on rental equipment (trucks). The biggest impact is around grape supply from Waipara. Journey times from Waipara to Blenheim are obviously longer via Lewis Pass, and with fluid loads, this becomes a real focus area. As a region, we also need to consider the increased level of risk generated by higher traffic flows through the Wairau Valley. Coupled with harvest trucks turning in and out of tight vineyard gates on the main highway at night, we are faced with a new set of hazards to manage.

Winepress February 2017 / 13


White Paper A labour plan for Marlborough’s growing wine industry. MARLBOROUGH’S WINE industry needs a set of core standards for employment, accommodation and pastoral care, according to a recently released White Paper. The report looks at the opportunities and challenges associated with the wine sector’s growth over the next five years, including the need for more accommodation, suitable pastoral care and the development of the labour force. Wine Marlborough General Manager Marcus Pickens says good labour practice and corporate responsibility are key to sustainable expansion, and he hopes a set of

White Paper work streams: Workforce planning and development Establishing good employment practices Development of suitable accommodation Ensuring pastoral care needs are met or exceeded Adoption of socially responsible and sustainable practices Communications and engagement

14 / Winepress February 2017

standards will become part of supplier agreements for Marlborough wine companies. “This White Paper is about planning for the sector’s growth over the next five years. Best practice and a good reputation are vital to enabling that growth.” The paper is the work of a Labour Summit working group, which has representatives from Wine Marlborough, grape growers, Ministry of Business Innovation and Employment, Marlborough District Council, Marlborough’s Primary Health Organisation and Splice Consulting. The group was established after a Labour Summit in July last year, where attendees spoke of the need for cross sector collaboration to ensure Marlborough’s wine industry can meet its growing labour requirements. According to a Labour Survey released by Wine Marlborough early last year, the industry is set to grow by 6444 hectares by 2020, requiring a 24% increase in worker numbers. Through its six work streams, the white paper looks at the need to attract school leavers, offer more training and career opportunities and relocate New Zealanders from other areas for

seasonal work. Marcus says the group is also keen to see employers extending seasonal roles into permanent positions, in order to attract and retain employees. It is hoped that each work stream will be led by relevant organisations, including the Marlborough Chamber of Commerce, the Primary Industry Training Organisation (ITO), NMIT, Master Contractors, WorkSafe and Police, as well as those bodies represented in the steering group. In another attempt to improve labour practices, Wine Marlborough will supply its members with a chart to shed light on the necessary piece rate to meet the minimum wage. Marcus says the chart shows various rates multiplied by vine numbers, and can be used by growers as a guide to ensure workers are receiving their due. “It shows how many plants someone would have to do if this was the rate per vine, in order to hit minimum wage. We want to give information to the growers and remind them all growers have the obligation to work out how much workers on their property are achieving.”


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Top Marcs Companies prepare for grape marc disposal this vintage. NEW ZEALAND Winegrowers (NZW) is helping inform Marlborough wine companies about new grape marc regulations in the lead up to the 2017 vintage. NZW Project Manager Tracy Benge says there was a fantastic turnout to a December meeting at the Marlborough Research Centre, aimed at clarifying new Marlborough District Council (MDC) regulations around grape marc, presenting different solutions currently employed by Marlborough wineries, and seeking member feedback. “There are plenty of people doing great things with winery by-products. The reason there were so many people at the recent meeting was that there is a real interest in sustainable solutions,

as part of a continuous improvement mindset.” Representatives from Nautilus, Giesen and Wairau River Mike Poff with Giesen’s compost pile Wines presented at the event, explaining their processes around grape marc and grape growing and winemaking composting, including the costs and community as to why and how to benefits of utilising the waste stream, better utilise grape marc. The company says Tracy. “They each have a different is about to build a new 3500 cubic way of using the resource, but all the metre commercial composting facility wine companies that presented had that will be operational this vintage the mind-set that marc is wealth not and will manage Giesen’s entire stream waste.” of grape marc. “We will have total Giesen Wines Senior Viticulturist control as a company. We see it firstly and NZW Sustainability Committee as part of what we do in our business member Mike Poff says there is a now, to responsibly control this waste “definite growing interest” from the stream. And secondly we see the

Managing winery solid waste and leachate 1. Location is key. Suitable solid waste storage locations need to consider: • Distance from bores, surface water and depth to groundwater • Soil type, particularly if free-draining or defined as a ‘soil sensitive area’ • Scale of storage and capacity • Length of storage time 2. Leachate management: • Moisture content of solid waste in storage • Rain and run-off into solid waste storage • Covering of grape marc piles to reduce leachate • Impermeable storage surfaces/bunded pads • Adequate leachate collection 3. Rules around application of winery solids and liquid waste including: • Distance from bores, surface water and depth to groundwater • Distance from boundaries with neighbours • Soil type and topography • Nitrogen loading • pH levels • Discharge of concentrate leachate is not permitted

16 / Winepress February 2017

4. Managing Biochemical Oxygen Demand (BOD) levels • Grape marc leachate can have very high BOD. This can affect groundwater by mobilising and leaching naturally occurring ground contaminants such as manganese and arsenic 5. Managing odour during storage, composting and turning • Distance from boundaries with neighbours: For more information email Compliance@marlborough. govt.nz or call 03 5207400. Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand guidelines • SWNZ members must provide council monitoring and compliance reports as part of the auditing process. • As part of SWNZ requirements, members must ensure consents are current, conditions met and abatement notices (if any) addressed. • If you use contractors to dispose of your grape marc, it is a requirement of the SWNZ programme that you ensure they are compliant. If grape marc goes off-site to stock food, compost or landfill, a letter must to be held confirming the disposal meets the resource consents or regional and district plans. If you have any queries please contact Tracy@nzwine.com, NZW Sustainability Project Manager.


greater benefit of composting grape marc and putting it back into your vineyards.” His message to the NZW meeting was that grape marc is a valuable resource. “We have spent many years growing grapes in the valley and not enough people are paying enough attention to their soil and the condition of their soil. At the end of the day there’s a resource here which we should be using to rectify the thousands of tonnes of grapes - organic matter - we take off every year.” Mike says there is no “silver bullet” solution, and the three wine companies that presented each used their marc differently to enhance the soil in their vineyards. “Everyone needs to think about their business and what the solution could possibly be as part of the continuous improvement of their business.” In outlining the council’s regulations under the new proposed Marlborough Environment Plan, MDC

Compliance Manager Gina Ferguson told the audience that companies needed to take a risk management approach to avoid adverse effects on the environment. In 2016 there were an estimated 48,000 tonnes of grape marc produced from 323,290 tonnes of grapes processed in Marlborough. In isolated cases unsuitable storage locations and scale, and insufficient leachate containment, resulted in the contamination of waterways and drinking water supplies, as well as odour during composting and turning. “With the lead up to vintage, now is a good time to ensure that marc operations are compliant,” says Tracy. Following December’s meeting, she sent Marlborough members a summary of the MDC and Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ) guidelines, including information around the use of contractors. In the medium to long term, the industry may consider revisiting previous grape marc value-stream

proposals, Tracy says. In 2014, Marlborough wine producers collaborated with the MDC in forming the Marlborough Grape Marc (MGM) group to advance a proposal for an environmentally sustainable use of the wine industry’s waste streams. It considered a proposal called Remarc, but ultimately followed up with the Australian-based Tarac Technologies, which proposed to extract alcohol from all the grape marc and residuals produced in Marlborough and convert the spent marc into compost and stock feed. That project did not proceed on commercial grounds, but there was substantial interest at the meeting about looking at potential value streams in the future, says Tracy. “This pro-active approach to grape marc is an example of how New Zealand wine is continually looking to improve, enhancing our reputation as a world leader in sustainability.”

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Growing Opportunities Great potential in vineyard apprenticeships. SOPHIE PREECE

CAREER OPPORTUNITIES are ripe for the picking when it comes to Marlborough’s wine industry, says a Training Advisor with the Primary Industry Training Organisation (ITO). Duncan Burns says on-the-job viticulture training makes perfect sense in the region, given the growing demand for skilled labour and the ITO’s established NZQA qualifications in horticulture and viticulture. However, there needs to be a culture change to ensure companies and employees make the most of the opportunities of hands-on training, he says. “There hasn’t been that culture of apprenticeship within viticulture, whereas if you look at the pip fruit industry they have had what they call cadets for many years.” The ITO has more than 100 trainees in the region and several corporate partners, including Constellation, Delegat’s and Pernod Ricard. And Duncan believes there is plenty of scope for growth, which is why the ITO has employed a 18 / Winepress February 2017

second advisor, Nicola Wood, to work with Marlborough employers and employees. The Primary ITO’s qualifications are developed in coordination with the industry, to ensure they deliver the skills required by growers. That begins with three levels of horticulture training, involving many transferable skills, such as installing and maintaining irrigation, operating machinery, and health and safety. It also offers a Level 4 National Certificate in Horticulture (Viticulture), and the Advanced Viticulture course, covering everything from frost fighting to recognising signs of pests and disease. While some people will enter the ITO training at the lowest level, others will already have skills and knowledge that allow them to skip to higher levels of training, Duncan says. “I see a hell of a lot of people already in the industry who have never been acknowledged for the skills they already have.”

If a grower comes on board it is a “win-win” as the employee gains recognition, new skills and the opportunity to develop their wine career, and the employer sees benefits to their business, thanks to having a more valuable staff member, he says. Grape grower Dominic Pecchenino, who has supported an employee through his ITO training over the past three years, says Marlborough has a growing issue with sourcing skilled labour. The ITO training enables a business to enhance the abilities of its employees, thereby adding value to the operation, he says. “Any time you can upskill a staff member it benefits you immensely... it’s going to make them more valuable.” For the employee it is a way to take a step up in their knowledge and ability without losing their income, he says. “I think there is a need for that in Marlborough.”


Skill Seeker When Rachel Pomfret-Brown turned up for her first day of vineyard work for Constellation, she saw a job, not a career. Five years later she is a Senior Operator for the company’s Springfields vineyard, with a good understanding of irrigation, machinery, plant health and frost risk, as well as skills for supervision. “Now I am trying to train new people. It’s amazing how much I know now, compared to when I came here and knew nothing,” she says. “The ITO (Primary Industry Training Organisation) and Constellation have worked together and rolled out lots of on-the-job training, which has been primo.” Through practical work, Constellation seminars and training, and the theoretical tasks set by the Primary ITO, Rachel has worked her way up through the company, and believes her study “clinched” it, when she applied for her current role. Rachel was previously involved in on-the-job training with New Zealand King Salmon and on a dairy farm she worked on for a year, and was able to transfer some of those credits and skills to her current role. Now she has completed the first four levels of the ITO qualifications and begun the level four advanced topic, covering pests and disease. Training Advisor Duncan Burns has supported her along the way, priming her to succeed, she says. “He has done an awesome job. He just throws himself into it.” As well as helping her advance her career, the blending of practical knowledge on the job and theoretical work through the ITO has made her work more interesting, says Rachel. “You are getting the theory behind it and thinking about it while you are out doing your work. It also combats the boredom of some of the more monotonous tasks.” One of the ITO levels required her to learn about frost fighting, so these days she can speak confidently about inversion layers. And while she is fixing irrigation, she is also busy checking the vines for signs of mealy bug or powdery mildew, two of the topics in the advanced level.

Rachel Pomfret-Brown

She communicates anything she finds to the viticultural team, learning through those conversations as well. Once Rachel has finished the advanced level, the ITO component of her training will be complete, so she’s being asked by people in her team whether she’ll head to university. While she is not putting her hand up for that yet, Rachel says Constellation supports tertiary education. The company has a programme to refund tertiary fees when employees pursue higher learning that aligns with their roles and the needs of the company. It also has clear career progression paths in viticulture and always looks to promote current employees up through the ranks, says Rachel. “It’s not like, ‘you are in this job and that is it’.” That’s the point of on-the-job training, says Duncan. “The trainee is learning and improving and feeling good about it, but in the background the employer is gaining real benefits too.”

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Generation Y-ine Jade Rogge is helping grow a better future for women in the wine industry. THERE ARE plenty of hurdles for women in viticulture, says TWE Wine Estate’s National Vineyard Manager Jade Rogge, from one of the 10 vineyards she controls. “You always have to work that little bit harder to prove yourself. It’s a male dominated industry and possibly always will be.” However, change is in the wind for women in wine, thanks to programmes like the recently released ‘TWE for She’, which helps foster the careers of women within the company. “I’m very lucky to work for an employer who has a single focus on women in this industry,” she says. “Not just women within our business, but women in senior positions.” A key element of TWE for She is ensuring employees can easily return to work after having children, so their knowledge and skills are not lost. There are employers who will struggle to buy into that culture, but it is at their own cost, says Jade. “We put a lot of effort and training into the employment of

20 / Winepress February 2017

people. That’s at great expense if they walk out to have children, so you need to help those people come back into the industry.” The 36-yearold speaks from experience, holding a key national role at a young age, despite taking maternity leave for four children over the past eight years. It comes naturally to her as an employer to create a plan that works best for both the company and its people. “I don’t see it as being a big deal. It’s a year to 18 months out of the schedule over a career spanning 40 or 50 years.” Jade was a child when her parents pulled out the vines on their Gisborne farm in the 1980s, but she still had plenty to do with the industry, thanks

to her father’s vineyard development business. As the wine sector’s fortunes surged, he found himself working more in Hawke’s Bay vineyards than he did on the farm, so the family moved to Havelock North when Jade was 13. She had always loved growing things and being outdoors, so discounted plans to join the police or air force when she left school, and instead enrolled in a year-long


course at EIT, while working at Sileni. “I learned on the tools, not from the books, and that worked for me,” she says. Jade then moved to Australia to do degrees in viticulture and winemaking at Charles Sturt University, working in a winery for two years as she studied, and then doing an Australian vintage. The time spent working on the concrete floors of wineries added clarity to her plans. “I really enjoyed that experience and it gave me a good

“I’m very lucky to work for an employer who has a single focus on women in this industry.” Jade Rogge overview, but made me realise very quickly that being outside was the ticket. I like producing things, and growing grapes is a bit of a progression for that.” Jade returned to New Zealand in

2003 to work for Delegat’s, where she stayed for seven years. Then in 2009, she and her husband Peter, who is also in the wine industry, moved to Marlborough with a six-week-old baby and a two-year plan. Now, there are four kids and it’s an eight-year plan and counting, she laughs. Over the past six years at TWE, Jade has learned that growing grapes is the simple part of her role. “For me it’s about people management and the culture you develop in the team.” People are always the priority, she says. “People, family, health and safety all come first, and then how we grow grapes and how we operate machinery.” She has a strong focus on strategies, efficiencies and potential for gains. “We need to look at vineyards as a business. It’s not just about how perfect the grapes are - especially in Marlborough.” Meanwhile, Jade’s love of growing things is put to good use at home, with her urban acre home to fruit trees, vegetable gardens, chickens and beehives, which she tends herself. The original motivation to learn beekeeping was to teach her children about

biodiversity, and how important bees are to the ecosystem, but the honey, wax and propolis have been a welcome bonus over the past two years. Biodiversity has become a ‘buzz’ word in the vines as well, including the nearly 600ha Jade manages for TWE. “We are growing as an industry to understand soil types better and to understand the way they - and the environment in general - interact with the plant.” It’s the way of the future, says Jade. “We can’t farm as hard as we did 20 years ago, and we have to be smarter and a bit wiser. That’s not necessarily talking about organics or biodynamics. It’s about an integration of all the systems and principles we understand, and creating a slightly healthier picture for the future.”

Winepress February 2017 / 21


The Block John Forrest and the mysteries of minerality.

IT’S EASY to imagine a 7-year-old John Forrest building dams and dykes on a Koromiko farm, indulging his inquisitive brain in countless inventive creations. Nearly six decades later you can still see the curious boy in Forrest Estate’s founder, as he excitedly describes the pioneering spirit of the New Zealand wine industry, and his desire to be at the pointy end of it. “It’s in my DNA,” he says. “I’m still always restless and asking the question ‘why?’” It’s why he was on the Winegrowers Research Group for around 15 years, during which time it created Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand and the Bragato Conference, and why Ross Lawson called on him to help drive the Screwcap Initiative in 2000. It’s why The Doctors’ range is about innovation and experimentation, and why John has been a key player in the emergence of the new lower alcohol wine trend, since the launch of The Doctors’ Riesling in 2006. “I have been part of some of the most interesting things the industry has seen,” he says. “I love it. I will be in it until the day I die.” The boy testing his theories in farm streams was considered dim by some who didn’t know him well, fooled by the dyslexia that limited his ability to read. However, others recognised a keen mind devoted to unravelling 22 / Winepress February 2017

problems, and supported John’s journey to become a scientist. Twenty years of “hard science training”, first in neuroscience and then in gene mapping, disciplined his mind to better ask and answer his questions. And it’s a skill John has put to good use over the past three decades, since he and his wife Brigid “threw” themselves into wine, planting their first grapes in Marlborough and on Hawke’s Bay’s Gimblett Gravels during the winter of 1989. These days the Forrests, in partnership, own 6 hectares of vineyards in Central Otago’s Bannockburn and 7ha of vineyard in the Waitaki Valley, as well as another 14ha of undeveloped land. They are part owners of 26ha of vineyards in Hawke’s Bay, as well as seven blocks and 70ha in Marlborough. In each parcel of soil, rock and climate, John seeks the best expression of terroir for his eponymous label. “The John Forrest Collection is about great terroir in great years expressing the great variety that that region of New Zealand - which I am lucky enough to have great vineyards in – is famous for.” In Marlborough that includes Sauvignon Blanc from the Wairau Delta, which achieves a character of minerality John believes is undeniable. “It’s got a slightly briny, salty sea spray character,” he says, comparing it to

driving down the Kaikoura coast on a “slightly southerly” day. “There are the pounding elements and ozone mixed with sea spray and kelp mixed around. You try the wine, and at the back end, when the fruit characters are gone, you’ll find it is mineral; like a salt gargle for a sore throat.” When people with little wine knowledge arrive at the cellar door, John will often ask them to taste two Forrest Sauvignons, one of which includes a mineral character. They all discern that particular difference, he says. “So your palate can perceive a character that we call minerality, which no scientist to my knowledge has adequately been able to isolate and explain, let alone analyse.” It should be a “dawdle” to scientifically capture minerality, “but it’s a mystery”, John says, beaming like a boy building a bridge. That mysterious minerality is available from the “triangle of soil” between Giffords and Jacksons Rds, back to Forrest Estate on State Highway 1, fading out towards the narrows, he says. For his own wines, he finds it in three Forrest Estate vineyards within five kilometres north and east of his Blicks Rd winery. “In other words, on the Wairau River, where soils are geologically young, deposited as recently as the last flood of 1982. It’s greywacke from light stone


to gravel and sand,” he says. Each block, to varying degrees, provides the mineral character he wants, as well as the sub-regional fruit characteristics of Rapaura. To get the John Forrest Collection Sauvignon Blanc he looks to the stoniest, boniest pieces of land, taking small parcels of those sites and growing them in a French style, thinned by hand to achieve a shaded canopy. The fruit is picked at around 21 brix instead of 23, so the grapes are physiologically ripe and aromatic. The alcohol is relatively low, to safeguard the minerality. “This is the heart. This is the most mineral of the most mineral that we do,” John says. Ten rows from the edge of the Sauvignon Blanc block, Forrest grows grapes for its John Forrest Collection Riesling, which tastes like the back end of a whitebait patty, says John. “Not West Coast whitebait, from the brown rivers, with their muddy edge, but the Wairau whitebait, which I reckon are the best in New Zealand. They have the same flavour as that minerality, which is best expressed by Riesling.” It was with Riesling that John created his first lower alcohol wine 11 years ago. “Not because I had a hoot of interest in low alcohol wines, but I was trying to make a copy of Dr Loosen’s famous Rieslings Kabinett, which tend to have 8% alcohol, residual sweetness of 30 or 50, and high acid with minerality.…I then had seven different types of Riesling, from bone dry to super, super sweet.” However, a sales trip made him

look at the concept anew, as he recognised an appetite for a lower alcohol wine. “Every female told their friends that they liked the Riesling and liked the idea of a nice wine that was around 9%,” John says. “I came home on a Friday night, having been up and down the South Island for a week, and said to Brigid, ‘By God if I can make the world’s number one white wine - Marlborough Sauvignon - at a high quality but lower alcohol, I will make you a rich woman.” In 2013, after four experimental vintages, he launched his Doctors’ Sauvignon Blanc, which aims not at minerality, but at typical Marlborough characteristics. It has gone like gangbusters, outselling The Doctors’ Riesling and attracting ardour from the likes of UK supermarket chain Waitrose, which bought 20,000 cases in 2016. John is now part of Lifestyle Wines, a Primary Growth Partnership co-funded by New Zealand Winegrowers and the Ministry for Primary Industries. He says the first key to New Zealand growing a successful lower alcohol wine sector is quality, which is why he shared his intellectual property with the group.

“The reason I gave it was that I learned one really important thing from screw caps; if one New Zealand wine producer had done screw caps badly initially, it would have sunk the whole initiative. One really bad lower alcohol wine exported from New Zealand would crush our attempt to make this the go-to country for those wines.” The second key to success is price. “For the professional woman who first started buying The Doctors’ five years ago, the decision to go lower alcohol is ahead, and a long way ahead, of the decision of price. That opens up huge commercial advantage….The customer wants to pay more. She wants to feel good about the healthy choice and the sensible choice.” It’s a market John sees great opportunity in, but meanwhile there are plenty of other vexing vinous questions intriguing him, tempting the question, ‘why?’

Winepress February 2017 / 23


Biosecurity Watch A look at the past 12 months in wine industry biosecurity and priorities for 2017. EDWIN MASSEY

I HAVE been in my role as Biosecurity Manager for almost a year. In discussions with members throughout the country one of the first questions many people ask is “how are we going? How good is our biosecurity system?” My answer to this question is pretty consistent: “New Zealand is a trading nation and a tourism destination, there will always be biosecurity risk. Nonetheless, we are doing well and the work the industry is doing now will help to mitigate these risks in the future. Let’s look at the evidence that shows this statement is accurate. A clear strategic direction The Biosecurity Strategy, approved by the New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) Board in May 2016, provides clear guidance on NZW’s biosecurity activities. The strategy has three key objectives: • Members’ capability to influence biosecurity decision making and activities across the scope of the system is maximised. • Members’ awareness of biosecurity risks and mitigations is maximised. • Members’ participation in biosecurity activities is maximised. The Biosecurity Strategy clarifies that NZW’s biosecurity activities will always balance the need to work with the Government to prepare for and

respond to biosecurity incursions and improve the biosecurity system as a whole, with the need to work with members to boost their knowledge of biosecurity risks and mitigations. Influencing Government This objective has been the highest priority for action over the past 12 months. Last year our most significant achievement in this area was gaining a strong mandate from members to enter into a Government Industry Agreement (GIA) for shared decision making in biosecurity readiness and response. The strength of this mandate (96% support by member vote and 99% support by levy vote) was a key element to submitting our application to the Minister of Primary Industries just prior to Christmas. Ensuring our application is successful and developing a Biosecurity Levy to fund our industry’s biosecurity response commitments will be a key area of focus for 2017, as will the negotiation of the wine industry’s first GIA Operational Agreement for Brown Marmorated Stink Bug (BMSB), our industry’s most unwanted pest. Through the Plant Germplasm Advisory Commitment (GERMAC) the industry has an excellent forum to engage with key MPI decision makers about the importation of plant material. As a member of GERMAC, I have regularly highlighted the potential risks posed to our industry

by Xyllela fastidiosa (Xf), another of our industry’s most unwanted pests. Recent research has highlighted that the risk posed by Xf is increasing due to its wide host range and geographic spread through Europe. MPI made an urgent amendment in December, to update the rules for imported host plant species in the nursery stock pathway. The new requirements include: • Measures to manage Xf on whole plants, cuttings and dormant bulbs newly identified as hosts for the pathogen • New requirements for additional declarations, a pre-determined test in post entry quarantine and an updated list of countries no longer recognised by MPI as free from Xf. These measures help to ensure the threat posed by Xf is adequately managed and in this case MPI has moved quickly to protect New Zealand’s biosecurity. These additional measures will help to protect the wine industry and are a good win for our industry’s biosecurity. Maximising awareness In the past 12 months NZW’s activities have focused on building awareness of our most unwanted pests. These are the pests and diseases that could have significant impacts on the industry’s production and quality, should they establish here. Two key elements of this work have been:

IF YOU SEE ANYTHING UNUSUAL

CATCH IT . SNAP IT . REPORT IT . Call MPI biosecurity hotline 0800 80 99 66 24 / Winepress February 2017


• Developing the ‘Catch it; Snap it: Report it’ poster. Search for ‘most unwanted’ on nzwine.com/ members to find it. • Promoting awareness regarding BMSB. The highlight of this campaign was the ‘How to Stop the Stink in Your Wine’ presentation at Bragato 2016 and the audience reaction to the smell of Sauvignon infused with BMSB odour. To keep the ball rolling key priorities for 2017 include: • A pest of the month campaign that will highlight the range of different pests on the NZW most unwanted list. • Promoting awareness of the most unwanted pest list, risks and mitigations at the 2017 Grape Days. Ensuring participation Promoting members’ participation in biosecurity activities is crucial as individual decisions in the vineyard can have the most impact on biosecurity risk mitigation. In late 2016, NZW began to develop vineyard health

best practice guidelines to embed biosecurity as part of business as usual. Engaging with members on the development of these guidelines will be a key priority for 2017. An initial workshop to get feedback from Pierce’s Disease symptoms on grape vine. Image from The Regents, members will University of California be held at the Marlborough have all improved. Nonetheless, there Convention Centre, 42A Alfred Street, remains much work to be done and from 2pm to 4pm, on Thursday 2017 promises to be a busy year. February 23. If you have any questions about Conclusion biosecurity please contact me on 0211924924 or Edwin.massey@nzwine. The last 12 months have seen com. significant progress towards the goals Of course, if you see anything set out in the Biosecurity Strategy. unusual please ‘Catch it; Snap it; The wine industry has strengthened Report it’ on the MPI biosecurity its influence on the biosecurity hotline 0800 80 99 66. system, and members’ awareness of biosecurity risk and ability to participate in biosecurity activities

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Industry News Organic conference Tickets are on sale for the Organic and Biodynamic Winegrowing Conference, to be held in Blenheim from June 26 to 28 this year. The inaugural event in 2015 was hugely successful, leading organisers to make it a regular feature on the wine industry’s calendar. The 2017 event will bring together winemakers, grape growers and wine trade, for seminars, workshops and wine tastings, to cover new techniques and methods, and provide insights into organic wine production. To learn more go to www.organicwineconference.com. The next phase for sustainability? New Zealand Winegrowers invites members to a workshop to discuss the next phase of the Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand programme and provide feedback on guidelines to promote in-vineyard biosecurity. The workshop will be held on Thursday February 23 from 2-4pm at the Marlborough Convention Centre, 42A Alfred Street, Blenheim. Refreshments will be provided. Please register your interest by e-mailing Justine Tate Justine.tate@swnz.org. nz or Edwin Massey Edwin.massey@ NZwine.com. Storyteller NMIT graduate Shixiang “Adora” Wu has launched her book, Meeting Winemakers, in her home country of China, after spending three years interviewing the people behind 36 Marlborough wineries. “Talking to winemakers or owners of wineries to better understand the industry,” was time consuming but rewarding, she says from her home city of Hefei. Shixiang was a journalist in China for several years before a visit to Marlborough, while travelling New Zealand, piqued her interest in the wine industry. She came to the region for three years and last year graduated from NMIT with a diploma in viticulture and wine production, her passion for wine firmly fixed. 26 / Winepress February 2017

Having launched her book late last year, Shixiang is working for a small Marlborough company to market wine in China, through tastings, education and sharing the stories of Marlborough. “Next year, we plan to bring our own Marlborough wine to China,” she says. In the future, she also will help some other New Zealand brands in the Chinese market. “Therefore, I am building relationships here in China, which cannot be done in a short time.” Shixiang says she ultimately plans to commute between New Zealand and China, in order to market Marlborough wine and sell other New Zealand products, such as honey and olive oil, into China. “The Chinese economy is growing so fast and people here focus on health food and drink, and they believe in the green New Zealand products. So we see lots of opportunities from there.” Not many Chinese know about New Zealand wines, says Shixiang. “But I am happy to be in China to do some wine education and introduction to wonderful New Zealand wines and tell the stories behind them.” Labour Law New Zealand Winegrowers has issued this advice on paid rest breaks, following a Court of Appeal decision last year: • All employees are legally entitled

to meal breaks and paid rest breaks. • Pay for paid rest breaks must be at or above the employee’s existing pay rate for work during that work period. • For piece workers or workers on hourly rates, the pay they receive for piece work or hours worked during their shift does not cover their paid rest breaks. They must be paid a separate amount to cover the paid rest breaks. • It would be prudent to ensure that any contractors you engage are also aware of this ruling. The Labour inspectorate has issued notice that a separate and clearly identifiable payment needs to be made to cover off the paid rest break. This needs to be clearly shown as part of the employer’s records. This payment cannot be less than the contracted rate. Employment tool Wellington startup Cohelix has built a cloud-based platform that allows viticulture employers to complete, check, sign and store employment documentation online. Chief Executive Nicole McCallum says the platform makes it easy for businesses to bring new employees

on board and meet their employer obligations. “During peak seasons the number of employees in the horticulture and wine industry increases 200-900%, with an annual employee turnover of


82%,” she says. “Under New Zealand employment law this means there are a huge number of new employees who need to be provided with employment agreements, as well as other types of records to track wages, hours worked and leave entitlements.” Eradus Wines Accounts Manager Elaine Bowden (pictured), who oversees the payroll for partnering contract labour business Vinecraft, says the paper trail for vineyard labour is long and laborious, with contracts, copies of passports, immigration visas, approved visas, a code of conduct and IRD form required for each employee. “Sometimes someone might only stay for half a day, but it takes you half an hour to set them up.” She jumped at the chance to help Cohelix develop their initiative, which allows businesses to complete, check, sign and store employment documentation online. Having everything on the notebook, and being able to coordinate everything and bring it together in one place, whether in the office or on the vineyard, is far more efficient, she says. “It’s all one paperless trail. No more boxes and boxes of paper…We can check everything straight away, before people even sign the contract.” Cohelix co-founder Alex Komarovsky says the startup designed the tool with input from the likes of Vinecraft, to ensure companies get best value from it. With three clients in Marlborough, they will now test and enhance the platform. Minimum wage increase The minimum wage will increase by 50 cents to $15.75 an hour on April 1, 2017. The starting-out and training hourly minimum wage rates will increase from $12.20 to $12.60 per hour, remaining at 80 per cent of the adult minimum wage, says Workplace Relations and Safety Minister Michael Woodhouse. “The Government is committed to striking the right balance between protecting our lowest paid workers and ensuring jobs are not lost.” He says the increase to $15.75 will

Top winemaker Framingham winemaker Andrew Hedley is “quietly chuffed” at being named top winemaker of 2016 by Bob Campbell MW. Bob made the pick during a radio interview late last year, and says that while there are a number of other very worthy candidates, he admires Andrew’s passion, enthusiasm and intellectual approach to winemaking. “Riesling is his ‘star turn’, but he makes some very smart wines across the board. He seemed a logical choice when I had to quickly choose a top winemaker for the year.” Andrew says the accolade is a welcome reward for Caption, Andrew Hedley; photo by Jim Tannock Framingham’s viticulture and winery people. “We don’t really make life easy for ourselves; there are lots of small parcels of fruit picked during harvest, which can all be a bit time consuming and fiddly, and often we’ll do different treatments in the winery for these parcels too. “It does however mean that we have lots of options to build some complexity and texture into all of the wines,” he says. The result is a range of wines with a good degree of individuality. “They may not be for everyone, but I’m fine with that.” benefit approximately 119,500 workers and will increase wages throughout the economy by $65 million per year. “At a time when annual inflation is 0.4 per cent, a 3.3 per cent increase to the minimum wage will give our lowest paid workers more money in their pockets, without hindering job growth or imposing undue pressure on businesses.” Real estate update The market for vineyards and land has taken a breather post flowering, says PGG Wrightson Sales Manager Joe Blakiston. “That’s as expected. With the rush to get vineyards ready for 2017 harvest, listings have been in short supply.” Joe says corporate buyers have confirmed several largescale developments on the Northbank, which signals a positive move into the area, with values around $25,000 per

hectare. “Buyer enquiry is still strong. However, Mother Nature has played her part with earthquake damage, affecting the market south of Seddon,” he says. “And recent wind damage to vines adds to the frustration of growers. The 2017 vintage will be one to remember.” Harvest concert The 2017 harvest kicks off with the annual Framingham Harvest Concert on Friday March 10. The lads from Shakes, Hopetoun Brown, Ha the Unclear and The Renwick Nudes will be on the stage, Feast Merchants will be on the grill, Framingham Wines and Garage Project Beers will be flowing. Tickets are limited, and available at Framingham’s Cellar Door, on Eventfinda and at Winos.

Winepress February 2017 / 27


Brought to you by

Wine Happenings A monthly list of events within the New Zealand wine industry.

To have your event included in next month’s Wine Happenings or Industry News pages, please email details to sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz by February 20. For more information on the events below email Harriet Wadworth at harriet@wine-marlborough.co.nz

FEBRUARY 2017 10: Cloudy Bay Clams’ Chefs on Tour dinner for KidsCan – Allan Scott Wines 10: Marlborough Artisan Market – Blenheim CBD, 10-3pm 11: Marlborough Wine and Food Festival – Brancott Estate 12: Wine & Food Wind Down 2017 – Vines Village 23: SWNZ and Biosecurity workshop - Marlborough Convention Centre, 2-4pm 24: Pre Harvest Field Day - St Leonards Road, 3pm 24: Les Nuits Romantiques - Clos Henri, 7pm 25: The Dog Point/Logan Brown Classic Kiwi Picnic – Dog Point MARCH 2017 11: Framingham Harvest Party

Wine and Food Fest - February 11

Chos Henri – February 24

Harvest Party – March 11

INDULGE IN OUR GOURMET RESTAURANT OR SOAK UP THE SUN IN OUR MEDITERRANEAN GARDEN BISTRO! Why not treat the one you love this Valentine’s Day with a romantic dinner at the famous Gourmet Restaurant! Alternatively, soak up the sun in our beautiful Bistro Garden, indulge in Hans’ eclectic artisan wines or chose a treat from one of the largest International wine lists in New Zealand.

BISTRO OPEN 7 DAYS FOR LUNCH & DINNER GOURMET RESTAURANT FROM WEDNESDAY TO SUNDAY FOR DINNER CELLAR DOOR 7 DAYS SPECIAL EVENT: TUESDAY 14TH FEBRUARY, VALENTINE’S DINNER Hans Herzog Estate | 81 Jeffries Road | Blenheim |03 572 8770 | info@herzog.co.nz | www.herzog.co.nz

28 / Winepress February 2017 6


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