Winepress - March 2022

Winepress THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF WINE MARLBOROUGH

ISSUE NO. 327 / MARCH 2022

VINTAGE VIEWS

HARVEST CREWS

BOUNCING FORWARD

BIODIVERSITY ISLANDS

Photo: Jim Tannock

wine-marlborough.co.nz

12 14

this issue...

REGULARS

FEATURES

3 4 6

10

20 22 24

Editorial - Sophie Preece From the Board - Beth Forrest Tasman Crop Met Report Rob Agnew Forgotten Corners Whenua Awa Generation Y-ine - Zac Howell

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Biosecurity Watch Sophie Badland

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Industry News

28

Wine Happenings

Cover: Greywacke Winemaker Richelle Tyney prepares for a vintage like no other.

Photo by Jim Tannock. See page 10

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Vintage 2022 The harvest is laden with challenges this year, including Omicron, labour shortages, and disease pressure. But as companies contemplate good crop levels and the prospect of boosted Sauvignon supplies, they’re working hard to mitigate every risk Growing Careers Opportunities abound in Marlborough’s wine industry, especially in these labourstrapped years of Covid-19. Sam Stevens (page 14), Tracy Gilman (page 16), Finn Pitman (page 17) and Zac Howell (page 22) are busy growing their careers in wine Building Resilience Learning to recognise stages in a downward spiral, and respond rapidly to offset them, can improve performance and wellbeing, says resilience expert Bradley Hook.

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Winepress March 2022 / 1

THE REQUIREMENTS When mobile plant will be operating (tipping, raising or lowering) 4 metres or less from overhead lines, under section 5.2.1 of NZECP 34 you must apply to MLL for written consent (Close Approach Authority) that allows the mobile plant to operate at a reduced distance.

In other circumstances, when mobile plant is not operating within 4 metres of a live overhead power line, you should identify the risks and apply appropriate controls to prevent harm and/or damage occurring.

Get to know NZECP 34. It could save your life.

What you need to know - tips to stay safe Vineyards often have overhead power lines near or running through them, so there is significant risk - to you or your equipment - of accidentally touching the lines.

SAFETY AROUND LIVE OVERHEAD LINES Working on a vineyard can put you in all kinds of situations but close to electrical equipment and overhead conductors should never be one of them.

Prior to vintage 2018 Marlborough Lines (MLL) undertook a safety campaign to ensure that wine companies, harvest contractors, growers and vineyard owners were aware of the legal requirements for working around live overhead electric lines.

Since then there has been a great response from a wide variety of wine industry participants, and incidents involving mobile plant and overhead lines have thankfully been few in number over that period.

As the network owner, MLL is very mindful of the need to keep "safe working distances" fresh in everybody's minds. While the focus since 2018 has been on the higher risk period over vintage, the requirement extends throughout the year where other vineyard operations are undertaken in the vicinity of overhead lines.

Based on the great response and increased awareness MLL intends to continue with a focus on education, and to encourage a risk-based approach with respect to the operation of mobile plant as a normal part of your hazard assessment for all of your operations.

You don't even need to touch the line to be in danger electricity can jump through the air to you and your equipment.

Obeying the rules can help ensure all workers' safety Every line must be treated as live. Always.

Don't locate dump/load sites under or near overhead power lines.

When moving tall machinery, choose the route where power lines are high enough for adequate clearance.

Always have any mobile plant device capable of being raised or lowered, in the lowered position prior to moving under lines.

Ensure operators are competent in the operation of their machines, thoroughly briefed and understand the dangers of working near overhead power lines.

Ensure a competent safety observer is able to maintain effective communication with the operator and alert them to any perceived hazard.

Before you harvest, prune, load or move equipment, look up and familiarise yourself with the location of any overhead power lines.

Locate a warning notice as near as practicable to the operator/driver's position stating "WARNING KEEP CLEAR OF POWER LINES". These stickers are available from MLL.

Contact us If you believe you may require a Close Approach Authority, need warning stickers, or have any questions, please phone Marlborough Lines on 03 577 7007 or email info@mll.co.nz to discuss.

We are happy to provide advice to help ensure everyone remains safe and well when working near overhead lines.

2 / Winepress March 2022

MARLBOROUGH LINES

VINEYARDSAFETY

General Manager: Marcus Pickens 03 577 9299 or 021 831 820 marcus@winemarlborough.nz Editor: Sophie Preece 027 308 4455 sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz Marketing and Communications: Sarah Linklater 021 704 733 sarah@winemarlborough.nz Events Manager: Loren Coffey loren@winemarlborough.nz Advocacy Manager: Nicci Armour advocacy@winemarlborough.nz Finance Administrator: Joanna May accounts@winemarlborough.nz Grape Grower Directors: Anna Laugesen anna.laugesen@xtra.co.nz Kirsty Harkness kirsty@mountbase.co.nz Michiel Eradus michiel@eraduswines.co.nz Nigel Sowman nigel@dogpoint.co.nz Tracy Johnston tracy@dayvinleigh.co.nz Wine Company Directors: Beth Forrest beth@forrest.co.nz Damien Yvon damien@closhenri.com Gus Altschwager gus@akwines.net James Macdonald james@hunters.co.nz Jamie Marfell Jamie.Marfell@pernod-ricard.com Designed by: Blenheim Print Ltd 03 578 1322

From the Editor AS THIS month’s Winepress goes to print, growers and winemakers around the country have one eye on the sky and the other on Omicron, as dual diseasethreats loom large.

Having vigilantly fought powdery mildew over summer, viticulturists then faced the spectre of botrytis, thanks to repeated February downpours as grapes ripened on the vines. Meanwhile, at the time of writing, Covid-19’s Omicron variant is spreading at pace throughout New Zealand, with its peak predicted right bang in the middle of vintage.

Plenty is bound to change between going to print and landing in mailboxes, but there’s no changing the fact that the past few years have amped up pressure and stress levels in the wine industry – from inexperienced cellar hands thrust into the action, to winemakers juggling the complexities of such a green workforce; from those managing supply constraints in thirsty markets, to those dealing with the delay in goods required for wine production; and from viticulturists grappling with rain disease potential and staffing shortages, to wineries instigating shifts and bubbles that pass in the night – but never too closely.

There’s the stress of having to be at the coalface as Covid spreads, but also the isolation for those sent home, perhaps feeling a disconnect from the action.

One person I spoke to today says it feels a little like they’re no longer part of the team, when sitting in a bubble of one at their kitchen table.

With all these stresses, Wine Marlborough’s Resilience Webinar in February (see page 18) was a chance to discover some tools to help decipher when the pressure is getting too much, as well as ways of “bouncing forward” out of a downward spiral. Individual companies are also doing their bit, and Cloudy Bay has been running an online breathing workshop with Nicky Hewett (see page 19) in the lead-up to harvest. Nicky says she didn’t realise how difficult the 2020 vintage had been for some wine workers until talking to people a few months later. “Some people definitely had a trauma response in relation to that event.”

Here's hoping that vintage 2022, with all its challenges and opportunities, results in great quality, full tanks, satisfied markets and a happy and healthy wine workforce.

Disclaimer: The views and articles that

are expressed and appear in Winepress are entirely those of contributors and in no way reflect the policy of the Marlborough Winegrowers. Any advice given, implied or suggested should be considered on its merits, and no responsibility can be taken for problems arising from the use of such information.

This document is printed on an environmentally responsible paper, produced using elemental chlorine free (EFC), third party pulp from responsible sources, manufactured under the strict ISO 14001 Environmental Management System and is 100% Recyclable.

SOPHIE PREECE

Winepress March 2022 / 3

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Opinion Piece NZW Governance, Funding & Representation Review BETH FORREST

NEW ZEALAND Winegrowers have listened to thoughts and concerns raised by members during the latest Levy Class Vote and committed to a review of the current governance, funding and representation structure in place.

This is an opportunity for everyone in our industry, from the smallest grape grower to the largest commercial winery, to take a look at how we work and how we best protect and future-proof our industry.

Firstly, I think it’s important to acknowledge that the New Zealand winegrowing ‘brotherhood’ or collective is far stronger than I have experienced anywhere else in the world. The ability to build a large volume, highly successful wine industry over the past 30-plus years, which remains collegial and interested in the greater good, is a huge achievement and is largely down to the foresight of those who saw the need for New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) to exist in the industry’s infancy.

However, I believe we need to change to reflect the rapidly evolving wine world we now find ourselves in. We have seen our boutique industry reach the rest of the world and grow, attract foreign investment, commercialise, merge, and continue to grow and today we find ourselves with a very different structure to what we had when we developed our original industry body.

Are three winery categories too simplistic?

Do the simple wine company categories of small, medium and large suit the industry diversity any longer? There are many different sizes of wineries here in Marlborough and throughout the New Zealand wine industry and alongside these we have new emerging small brands, with young winemakers making a mark of their own with alternative and interesting wine styles. These smaller players - both existing and new to industry - need some support in a super-boutique style category; after all, it is this type of entrepreneurship that originally established brands such as Cloudy Bay, Wither Hills and even Montana or Brancott Estate.

Recently, we have seen a merger between two large companies, and this may not be the last of its kind. Does this mean it could be time for a super-size category?

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“One solution will not fit all in the future of New Zealand wine.”

Beth Forrest The commercial operations of these businesses function completely differently to small, super-boutique, and medium sized family-owned companies.

The question needs to be asked, would a redefinition of categories help us to focus on what each of these entities needs in support to move ahead and build the diversity and strength of the greater industry? One solution will not fit all in the future of New Zealand wine.

Funding

Interrelated to this is the levy cap. I think everyone is interested in what the pros and cons of having and not having a levy cap are. It may be argued that because of the breadth of company sizes now, the cap doesn’t suit this arrangement as it used to. Not addressing this also means the total levy collected is vulnerable to a marked reduction with the potential for more mergers between very large companies. Less money is not what we need to support the future of New Zealand wine as operating becomes more costly.

Could the payment of levies be on total volume produced without a cap? Is this sustainable or would the model collapse due to the burden it may place on larger businesses? Could it simply become a cost per litre of doing business and thus always stays relevant to your size? If there is no cap, there may be an option of reducing the levy per litre so the total levy earned for NZW is similar to today and allows us to continue to support future operational,

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advocacy, marketing and governance needs of the entire industry.

Representation and governance

The levy class voting system is also part of this review. Can we structure the board in a different manner so it must always have representation from all categories around the table? Is there still a place for the levy-based voting system, which tends to lean towards the larger players having definite seats at the table? Or can we take a new approach and allow every size and shape to become one of the knights around our table?

Would the future outlook open up the possibility of new blood? The ability for members to exist from other nonwine or non-grower categories, from another industry that supports or is essential to our trade, such as Recognised Seasonal Employer scheme (RSE), bottling, or transport representative? These groups are just as critical to our success as our own growers and wine companies, but where do we draw the line?

Have your say

This review is your opportunity to get involved in the future of your industry. Take the time to get online and look at the current structure and functions of NZW. Talk to your winery or growers about where they think the industry is going, start a conversation, share your ideas and take the time to make a submission either through NZW or the team at Wine Marlborough.

The greatest strength of NZW is its ability to bring together a diverse group of individuals that believe in the greatness of New Zealand Wine. We must maintain and remember that while we compete for shelf space throughout the world, we truly are an industry that thrives on each other’s success and supports one another through the trials and tribulations of each harvest. We are a collective of farmers, entrepreneurs, executives and scientists that truly care for the greater good of the industry. It is important we never lose this!

Beth Forrest is general manager and winemaker at Forrest Wines.

Progress report The working group reviewing New Zealand Winegrowers’ governance, funding and representation held its first meeting in February 2022. Clive Jones, New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) board chair, says NZW is committed to the review following feedback from members as part of the levy votes in 2021. “This process will discuss a variety of matters, and it will take time to get right. There will be multiple opportunities for members to engage with the review as it progresses.”

There is a webpage for members to keep up to date with the working group’s activities – take a look at nzwine.com/members

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MET REPORT Table 1: Blenheim Weather Data – February 2022 February Feb 2022 Feb 2022 compared to MTA LTA GDD’s for: Month - Max/Min¹ 204.5 90% Month – Mean² 197.6 90% Growing Degree Days Total Jul 21–Feb 22 – Max/Min¹ 1135.8 110% Jul 21–Feb 22 – Mean² 1151.0 108% Mean Maximum (°C) 21.2 -2.1°C Mean Minimum (°C) 13.4 +0.9°C Mean Temp (°C) 17.3 -0.6°C Grass Frosts (<= -1.0°C) 0 Equal Air Frosts (0.0°C) 0 Equal Sunshine hours 156.4 68% Sunshine hours – lowest Sunshine hours – highest Sunshine hours total – 2022 470.2 95% Rainfall (mm) 153.4 334% Rainfall (mm) – lowest Rainfall (mm) – highest Rainfall total (mm) – 2022 166.0 188% Evapotranspiration – mm 86.6 75% Avg. Daily Windrun (km) 180.1 72% Mean soil temp – 10cm 17.8 -0.5°C Mean soil temp – 30cm 19.5 -1.1°C

Period of LTA

February 2021

227.9 220.2

(1996-2021) (1996-2021)

209.8 202.5

1035.2 1067.9 23.3 12.5 17.9 0.00 0.00 231.5 133.6 298 495.7 45.9 1 181.4 88.2 115.5 249.2 18.3 20.6

(996-2021) (1996-2021) (1986-2021) (1986-2021) (1986-2021) (1986-2021) (1986-2021) (1986-2021) 2012 1968 (1986-2021) (1986-2021) 1973 & 1983 2018 (1986-2021) (1996-2021) (1996-2021) (1986-2021) (1986-2021)

1094.3 1120.3 23.3 11.6 17.5 0 0 263.9

572.9 22.8

30.6 123.3 216.3 17.8 19.6

¹GDD’s Max/Min are calculated from absolute daily maximum and minimum temperatures ²GDD’s Mean are calculated from average hourly temperatures

Temperature February’s mean temperature of 17.3°C was 0.6°C below the long-term average (LTA) temperature for February (1986-2021). This was slightly cooler than February 2021 and the coolest February since 2013.

The mean maximum temperature of 21.2°C was the coolest in the last 20 years. February 2002 also recorded 21.2°C. February started out reasonably warm in the first week of the month (Table 2), however each successive week became progressively cooler. The mean temperature from 1 to 21 February was 17.9°C, equal to the February average. However, the final very cool week dragged the

overall mean for the month down by 0.6°C. To put the mean temperature in the final week of February of 15.5°C into context, it was cooler than the LTA mean March temperature of 16.1°C. Hence the reason that the last week felt very autumnal.

The hottest maximum temperature recorded in Blenheim was 28.8°C on 1 February. The coolest minimum temperature was 8.5°C on 27 February.

The average daily range in temperature was 7.8°C, whereas the LTA daily range for February is 10.8°C. The overcast weather kept the daily maximum temperatures well below average and the daily minimum temperatures above average.

Summer temperatures

At the beginning of December 2021 NIWA predicted for Marlborough that there was a 70% chance of above average temperature, 25% chance of average temperature and only a 5% chance of below average temperature for the full 3-month period from December 2021 to February 2022; i.e. they were fairly certain that Marlborough would experience a warmer than average summer. The average temperature for the three summer months was 0.4°C above the long-term average; so NIWA’s prediction was correct. December recorded a mean temperature well above average (+1.7°C), January slightly above average (+0.1°C), and February below average (-0.6°C) (Table 3).

Table 2: Weekly temperatures, rainfall, sunshine and wind-run during February 2022 Mean Max Mean Min Mean Rainfall Sunshine Wind-run (°C) (°C) (°C) (mm) (hours) (km) 1st - 7th 21.4 (-1.9) 15.6 (+3.1) 18.5 (+0.6) 58.8 11.7 202.6 8th - 14th 20.7 (-2.6) 14.9 (+2.4) 17.8 (-0.1) 73.6 11.5 143.3 15th - 21st 22.2 (-1.1) 12.5 (=) 17.4 (-0.5) 21.0 65.1 200.3 22nd - 28th 20.5 (-2.8) 10.6 (-1.9) 15.5 (-2.4) 0.0 68.1 174.3

1st – 28th Feb 21.2 (-2.1 ) 13.4 (+0.9°C) 17.3 (-0.6°C) 153.4 334% 156.4 68% 180.1 72% LTA 1986-2021 23.3 12.5 17.9 45.9 231.5 249.2 6 / Winepress March 2022

Table 3: Monthly mean temperatures over the 6 summers from 2016-17 to 2021-22 Long-term Average °C December 16.8 January 18.2 February 17.9 Mean 17.7 +/-LTA

Sunshine

2016-17 Mean °C 16.7 18.4 18.0 177 +0.2

2017-18 Mean °C 18.7 20.7 18.8 19.4 +1.8

2018-19 Mean °C 17.4 20.7 18.9 19.0 +1.4

2019-20 Mean °C 16.7 17.5 19.2 17.8 +0.17

2020-21 Mean °C 16.7 18.4 17.5 17.5 -0.2

2021-22 Mean °C 18.6 18.3 17.3 18.1 +0.4

February recorded 156.4 hours sunshine, 68% of the LTA (1986-2021). This is the second lowest February sunshine total on record for Blenheim for the 93 years 1930 to 2022. Lowest is 133.6 hours recorded in February 2012. The first 14 days of February were exceptionally overcast recording only 23.2 hours sunshine (Figure 1); i.e. an average of only 1.66 hours per day. Eight of the first 14 days of the month recorded zero hour’s sunshine, associated with the 132.4 mm of rain over those 14 days. In contrast, the 14 days from 15 to 28 February recorded 133.2 hours sunshine, 9.5 hours per day, well above average.

Figure 1: Daily sunshine hours in Blenheim during February 2022

Table 4: Sunshine hours over the 6 summers from 2016-17 to 2021-22 Long-term Average December 249.3 January 264.3 February 229.9 Total 745.1

Rainfall

2016-17 hours 253.0 282.0 246.3 781.3 105%

2017-18 hours 319.1 243.6 226.4 789.1 106%

2018-19 hours 213.2 317.9 289.4 820.5 110%

January 2022 was the only summer month to record above average sunshine hours over the 2021/22 summer (Table 4). December 2021 sunshine hours were well below average due to high rainfall in the first half of the month. February 2022 sunshine hours were also well below average, again due to very high rainfall in the first 2-weeks of the month. With a total of 671.7 hours, the summer sunshine total for 2021-22 is ranked 75th out of the 92 years on record, from 1930-31 to 2021-22.

2019-20 hours 272.6 245.0 270.9 788.5 106%

2020-21 hours 255.4 309.0 263.9 828.3 111%

2021-22 hours 201.5 313.8 156.4 671.7 90%

February’s rainfall total of 153.4 mm was 334% of the LTA (1986-2021). This is the second highest February rainfall total on record for the 93 years 1930 to 2022. The highest February total of 181.4 mm was recorded only 4-years ago in 2018. While February’s rainfall was very high, only four of the last 20-years have recorded well above average rainfall in February; 14 of the 20 years have recorded below average rainfall; 2-years have recorded close to average rainfall.

Table 5: Rainfall over the 6 summers from 2016-17 to 2021-22 Long-term Average December 48.4 January 42.2 February 45.9 Total 136.5 mm

2016-17 mm 20.2 27.2 61.8 109.2 mm 80%

2017-18 mm 21.6 80.4 181.4 283.4 mm 208%

2018-19 mm 53.6 3.8 8.0 65.4 mm 48%

2019-20 mm 91.2 0.2 8.6 100.0 mm 73%

2020-21 mm 22.8 7.8 22.8 53.4 mm 39%

2021-22 mm 85.8 12.6 153.4 251.8 mm 185%

Total summer rainfall in 2021-22 (Table 5) of 251.8 mm was 185% of the long-term average total. This is the sixth highest summer rainfall on record for Blenheim for the 92 years 1930-31 to 2021-22. The previous wettest summer was 4-years ago in 2017-18, when 283.4 mm rain was recorded. The 2021/22 summer rainfall total of 251.8 mm was 470% of the 2021/22 summer total of 53.4 mm.

Winepress March 2022 / 7

Wind Run Average daily wind run for February 2022 was 180.1 km, 72% of the LTA (1996-2021) of 249.2 km. This is the least windy February on record for Blenheim for the 27 years 1996 to 2022.

Shallow Soil Moisture

Average shallow soil moisture (5–35 cm depth) at the Grovetown Park weather station for February was 32.2%. Soil moisture was low at the start of the month (16.5%) after a dry January. However, high rainfall during the month boosted moisture in the topsoil well above the February average.

Potential Evapotranspiration

Potential evapotranspiration for February 2022 was 86.6 mm, 75% of February’s LTA of 115.5 mm. This is the lowest potential evapotranspiration for February for the 26 years 1996 to 2022, the period over which it has been recorded. Total evapotranspiration over the summer of 2021/22 was considerably lower than over the previous 5 years (Table 6).

Table 6: Potential evapotranspiration over the 6 summers from 2016-17 to 2021-22 Long-term Average December 140.2 January 144.6 February 115.5 Total 400.3mm

2016-17 mm 153.7 181.5 121.9 457.1mm 114%

2017-18 mm 177.8 135.6 122.4 435.8mm 109%

2018-19 mm 114.9 186.9 151.0 452.8mm 113%

2019-20 mm 140.1 133.9 140.3 414.3mm 103%

2020-21 mm 143.2 172.3 123.3 438.8mm 110%

2021-22 mm 135.1 152.5 86.6 374.2mm 93%

Potential Water Deficit Potential water deficit (Table 7) is the difference between monthly rainfall received (Table 5) and potential monthly evapotranspiration lost (Table 6). Potential water deficit for February 2022 was +66.8 mm; i.e. a water surplus. Average water deficit for February is -78.6 mm. Total potential water deficit for the three summer months December 2021 – February 2022 was -122.4 mm, only 44% of the LTA.

Table 7: Potential Water Deficit over the 6 summers from 2016-17 to 2021-22 Long-term Average mm December -91.8 January -105.2 February -78.6 Total -275.6 mm

2016-17 mm -133.5 -154.1 -60.1 -347.7 mm 127%

2017-18 mm -156.2 -55.2 +59.0 -152.4mm 56%

2018-19 mm -61.3 -183.1 -143.0 -387.4mm 141%

2019-20 mm -48.9 -133.7 -131.7 -314.3mm 115%

2020-21 mm -120.4 -164.5 -100.5 -385.4mm 141%

2021-22 -49.3 -139.9 +66.8 -122.4mm 44%

Rob Agnew - Plant & Food Research / Marlborough Research Centre

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Winepress March 2022 / 9

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Vintage 2022 High hopes for replenished cellars SOPHIE PREECE

VINTAGE 2022 is something of a “baptism of fire” for Richelle Tyney, in her first harvest as Greywacke winemaker.

With Omicron looming, tropical cyclones swooping, and labour supply thin on the ground, it could be an incredibly complex harvest, says Richelle, who recalls commenting in the 2020 vintage, as winemaker at Spy Valley, that she’d prefer a tropical cyclone to vintage in a Covid-19 national lockdown. “Now we have Covid-19 actually here and a tropical cyclone just passed through.”

Crop loads are looking relatively abundant throughout the region, but repeated February rain events exacerbated the existing threat of powdery mildew and added botrytis to the mix. Cool weather during the downpours mitigated the impact to some degree, but winemakers and viticulturists – keen to replenish empty cellars (see page 11) – are scanning the skies and weather reports, with fingers crossed for classic Marlborough conditions of warm dry days and cold nights.

Richelle Tyney. Photo by Jim Tannock

Fortunately, Greywacke’s vineyards look relatively clean, says Richelle, noting that most of the Sauvignon Blanc blocks are in good condition, with crop levels that could help satisfy demand stymied by last year’s low yields.

However, she is concerned by the shortage in hand harvest crews, which Greywacke needs for the Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and aromatic pick, and to clear any undesirable fruit from the Sauvignon Blanc before machine harvest.

“We can’t get the usual numbers for the picking gangs, so we have been looking at our processing and how the winery can accommodate the labour shortage in the vineyards.”

The “upside” of a small winery team is they only need a few extras at vintage, “so I have called on a couple of friends to help get us through”, says Richelle, who has winemaker Paul Bourgeois and another highly experienced ringer jumping in for harvest.

But being small also means there’s little fat in the system should a team member have to drop out due to Covid-19. Entering phase 3 of the Government response

Welcome boost to experienced winery staff The creation of a class border exception for up to 75 experienced vintage workers on the cusp of harvest is excellent news for the wine industry, says New Zealand Winegrowers external relations manager Nicola Crennan. “Even one person in a small winery with vintage experience will make a huge difference.”

The Government’s support of New Zealand Winegrowers’ (NZW) request for the exception indicates recognition of the shortfall of skilled winery staff for the 2022 vintage, “even with all the efforts industry took in terms of attracting New Zealanders or training people or redeploying their workforce”, says Nicola. The addition of 75 experienced winemakers or cellar hands will help “bridge that gap”, she adds.

The development was announced alongside the Government’s decision to increase the Recognised Seasonal Employer (RSE) scheme cap for the 2021-2022 year from 14,400 to 16,000, following industry submissions. The Government is also considering restarting the Working Holiday Visa (WHV) scheme, including granting visas to those who had WHV but were not able to travel to New Zealand due to border closures.

“These are really positive signs that will help with vintage 2022, and will also help with winter pruning planning,” says Nicola. “Looking ahead, these are all positive developments to help meet seasonal labour needs.”

10 / Winepress March 2022

GROW

Desperately seeking supply New Zealand wine sales for 2021 were 48 million litres more than was produced in last year’s harvest, with wineries forced to draw down on stocks to maintain markets, says New Zealand Winegrowers chief executive Philip Gregan. “This stock drawdown highlights that we desperately need a bigger harvest in 2022, to replenish cellars, and help satisfy international demand.”

In the past year, many New Zealand wineries have faced “tough decisions” over who they can supply in their key markets, “and the ongoing increase in international demand has placed huge strain on already depleted stocks,” says Philip. “For some wineries, there has been quite simply just not enough wine to go around.”

Wine companies are also grappling with increasing production costs and the ongoing effects of Covid-19 on the border, markets, and supply chains, while the availability of labour has been a huge concern for many growers and wineries, says Philip. “The introduction of Omicron into the New Zealand community on the cusp of vintage 2022 is a very serious concern for growers and wineries, as this is our busiest time of year, and we are already facing a critical labour shortage in some regions.”

Wine businesses that sell predominantly through the on-premise and tourism sectors also continue to experience significant setbacks. “Domestically, red light

Philip Gregan restrictions on operations of hospitality businesses are a major challenge for wineries dependent on that sector. Cellar doors have been hit hard by the collapse in international tourist numbers over the past two years. Positively, we have seen more New Zealanders visiting cellar doors, but there are long, lean periods as we move out of the traditional Kiwi holiday period.”

Although the coming vintage is expected to be challenging, the experience of operating harvest during Covid times in both 2020 and 2021 has strengthened the industry in its resilience to respond quickly and adapt during difficult times, says Philip. “Over the past two years, wineries and growers have proven that they can manage the threat of Covid well, continue to operate effectively, and adapt processes to ensure they protect workers and other New Zealanders. Our industry’s most important priority continues to be keeping our people and our communities safe during this uncertain time. We are looking forward to another harvest of excellent quality, and believe an optimistic approach and helping one another will get us through.”

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GROW

means staff won’t have to isolate unless they’re a household contact, but keeping Covid out of the winery will be key, she says.

Meanwhile, global shipping delays mean deliveries are slow, and they’ve had to think ahead of the curve, she adds, with goods ordered early for harvest. “Fingers crossed we will receive them before we need them.”

Richelle has Greywacke founder Kevin Judd – with his nearly 40 years of Marlborough winemaking experience – to give guidance and put the avalanche of challenges in perspective. It’s not as bad as the ‘90s, he tells her, recalling a mid-harvest frost shock that defoliated the vines and stopped harvest in its tracks, in just one of several nightmare vintages seared on his memory. “You always remember the bad ones,” says Kevin.

Such horror stories are strangely comforting, says Richelle. “We haven’t seen anything yet.”

Game on for Vintage 2022 Two Rivers winemaker Dave Clouston, who also owns The Wine Studio, says February’s rain events impacted early ripening varieties, including Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, while later varieties of Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Syrah and Pinot Gris came through “relatively unscathed”, with too little sugar to fuel botrytis.

The downpours boosted fertility and canopy, giving the vines “large engines” to help ripen fruit sooner, assuming a good run of weather from here on in, and Dave is anticipating a great year for aromatics. With cool weather in the second half of February, he’s also predicting a vintage with refreshing acidity. “What we don’t want is another cyclone at the end of March.”

Dave says they are busy in the vineyard mitigating heavy dews and soil moisture, “working hard to keep everything mowed, trimmed and plucked”. While he’s eager to replenish empty tanks amid “insatiable” demand in Europe, North America, the UK and New Zealand, it’s vital to choose quality over quantity, and to pick when possible at Dave Clouston

12 / Winepress March 2022

optimum ripeness, he says. “We have to be careful that we don’t rush too early to harvest.”

Dave notes that the “crazy” demand, particularly for Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, could shift, “so it’s about taking a cautious approach in the future. Things could easily change the other way”.

In the meantime, he’s welcomed the move to phase 3 in the Omicron response, “which has made restrictions slightly easier to manage” and says it’s “game on” for vintage 2022, with the Two Rivers Rosé harvest beginning in early March.

Raising the curtain on vintage 2022 If 2020 was a “dress rehearsal” for a Covid-19 vintage, then 2022 is showtime, says Spy Valley’s Amanda Johnson.

It’s a show with multiple parts for a limited cast, says the managing director-cum-Covid manager, who is also playing the role of depalletizer operator, bottling line assistant, rapid antigen test (RAT) and temperature taker, “mask and physical distancing policewoman”, and understudy for cellar and tractor work.

Labour shortages for vintage 2022, which are likely to get shorter as Omicron spreads through the community, mean it’s “all hands on deck”, says Amanda.

Finance manager Dean McLoughlin is also bottling line operator and the IT guy - setting up remote working systems - while also honing his tractor skills and preparing to hit the cellar floor in case any staff have to isolate.

Lois Donaldson, cellar door manager and marketing assistant, is a bottling line operator, wine courier, accommodation organiser, and “general open to assist anywhere gal”, while Daniel Adriatico, senior sales and marketing manager, is on the bottling line, strip labelling, tractor driving, water blasting and working as the team barista, says Amanda.

She’s got her kids on the billing too, with Amy and Max Gibbs working the summer on young vine training, bird netting, tractor driving, trimming, bottling line operators and strip labelling - “wherever the help was needed”.

With a crop that’s “healthy and heavy, thus far”, Spy’s harvest is likely to start the week of March 7 with low alcohol Sauvignon Blanc, which has been in hot demand in recent years, allowing the company to adopt a wider harvest window. Their sparkling wine will also be harvested early March, followed by other varieties.

Amanda says they have worked hard to be ready for the Omicron threat, drawing on learnings from that 2020 “dress rehearsal”, with mask use, physical distancing, sanitising in and out, maximum ventilation, staggered breaks, reduced staff and visitors on site, use of temperature testing and RAT tests to minimise the risk of Covid spread on site, and having as many staff working from home as possible. “We are fortunate to have a small team committed to vintage and harvest,” says Amanda, noting that Covid protocols have become habitual for permanent staff, while new vintage staff are onboarded with an understanding of the protections. The company is housing some of their staff

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“We are fortunate to have small team committed to vintage and harvest.”

Amanda Johnson

Amy Gibbs on the nets

to minimise the risk of cross contamination with other household contacts, and is offering extra Covid sick leave,

“to ensure staff stay home if unwell with Covid symptoms”.

Spy is facing a harvest with fewer hand harvesters available, due to lower levels of contract labour, but employed more casual labour over summer and is redeploying bottling and administrative staff to provide cover over harvest. “We are now fully staffed but our experienced staff numbers are down,” says Amanda, noting that a few experienced staff signed up moved to other wineries before vintage, in a “very competitive labour market”.

But she’s pleased to have “eager vintage workers… Who, because of our smaller size, will get to experience a variety of different tasks in the winery so it will be an interesting and fun experience for them.”

Wine dining for the vintage army SOPHIE PREECE IT’S 3AM on a chilly Marlborough morning as a soaking wet cellar hand rinses out the press, longing for a big bowl of warming stew.

That’s the kind of scenario Karaka Cuisine owner Sander de Wildt imagines as he plans vintage menus, devising ways of providing up to 1,000 nutritious meals a day to wineries around the region, through the “crazy” weeks of harvest.

The Omicron threat has him on his toes, along with his winery clients, but Sander is hopeful Marlborough’s grapes will be safely in tanks by Easter, and his 25,000 meals will have been devoured in wineries throughout the region.

The dishes are all designed to be filling and healthy, and warming if the temperatures are low. They’re also designed to be delicious, and that cold cellar hand’s “stew” will more likely be beef bourguignon, lamb shepherd’s pie, or Bianca’s butter chicken, named for Sander’s “left and right hand” Bianca Zucchetto, who has organised logistics for Karaka for the past three years, including the highly complex 2020 Covid vintage.

That year taught them plenty, including their tactic of contactless delivery. But this year looks to be even more “scary” says Sander, who will close Karaka’s Riverlands café over vintage, and move his central Blenheim café to takeaways only, in order to help protect the wine industry - and also his business - in a key period. “We have a separate bubble here in Riverlands”, he says, noting that over the vintage period the people in that bubble will simply “work and sleep”. It’s about minimising risk, says Sander. “And we owe that to the wine industry.”

The Karaka team from left, Sander de Wildt, Claire Mcculloch, Chris Pearce and Bianca Zucchetto.

He is also making contingency plans in case there are disruptions to food delivery, and has an alternative provider for every product.

While winery staffing levels are down because of the labour shortage, Sander’s orders are consistent with previous years, due to wine companies ordering in extra meals so staff don’t have to go to the supermarket, or into town, to eat. “We want to support the companies who have been looking after us for the past few years as well,” says Sander. “There’s a bit of give and take from both sides, which is pretty cool.”

The meals are a bit of a highlight for tired staff, and help wineries ensure their people are getting at least one decent meal a day, he adds, recalling reports of vintage workers resorting to a diet of two minute noodles once the vintage meals end. “It’s about caring as well… It helps people through the six weeks of craziness.”

Winepress March 2022 / 13

GROW

Sam Stevens – out of the pan and into the tank

Photo by Santiago Vandillo

Cellar Opportunities KAT DUGGAN

“Everyone has been very kind to pass on knowledge and just be as welcoming as they can.”

MARLBOROUGH’S GRAPE vines are a far cry from the barren sands of the Australian outback, but Sam Stevens is right at home in his new environment.

Born in Taranaki, the Villa Maria cellar hand had a complete change of direction when Covid-19 took the world by storm, seizing the opportunity to return home and escape the sometimes-relentless nature of the hospitality industry.

“I had spent six years in Australia - I moved there when I was 18 - and I came home at the very start of the first Covid lockdown [in 2020]. I had been cheffing over there the whole time,” Sam says. “I was initially looking at getting into the wine industry around Queenstown, when the opportunity for the cadetship came up.”

Villa Maria’s cadetship traditionally sees cadets spend equal time in both the vineyard and the winery to gain a full understanding of the industry’s workings. After a year in the cadetship, he “jumped” at the opportunity to take a full-time role in the cellar. Despite enjoying his time in the vineyard, Sam feels more at home in the winery and enjoys learning about flavour profiles and making connections with wine and his other passion, food.

Becoming a chef was always a dream for Sam, who considers himself lucky to have been able to spend six years working at Ayers Rock Resort. By the end of his time there he was sous chef, running three kitchens and getting ready to open a seasonal restaurant. “I was learning a lot and progressing a lot.” As is often the case with hospitality, 14 / Winepress March 2022

the hours required meant it was difficult to have a social life, and seeing family, Covid aside, was often hard to do.

“In hospitality you have a life that’s quite different from anything else, it’s nice being able to cook myself dinner [now], and do things that I had lost touch with; being able to see friends and family at the weekends if I want to,” Sam says.

While not quite home in Taranaki, being in Marlborough has enabled Sam to have more regular contact with his parents, two brothers, sister and young niece and nephew, who he says he did not want to miss out on seeing grow up.

Making the shift into the New Zealand wine industry, while a world away from cheffing at Uluru, has been a fantastic life decision, he adds. “I’m not looking back at anything else, I’m loving it. It comes down to the people I’m working with, every part of it, really, it’s the best decision I could have made,” he says. “I have felt so welcomed into the industry - everyone has been very kind to pass on knowledge and just be as welcoming as they can.”

For now, Sam is enjoying learning by experience, but hasn’t ruled out potential study in the future. “I’m going to see where it takes me. At the moment I’m just learning whatever I can, whatever anyone is willing to teach me…

I’m trying to get all the basics sorted first and once I have that I will look at where I want to branch out to.”

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EDUCATE

Challenge Chaser Tracy Gilmore on thriving under pressure KAT DUGGAN

DESPITE A successful 16-year career working in Marlborough’s wine industry, Tracy Gilmore yearned to learn more.

With a love of viticulture firmly cemented, Tracy enrolled in the Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology (NMIT) Bachelor of Viticulture and Winemaking in 2020, to add to her understanding. “I’m more interested in the viticulture side, but I’m fascinated to learn about winemaking as well; I wanted to fill in some gaps in my knowledge, because I’m still learning; we’re all still learning,” she says.

Tracy’s expertise has seen her take on many roles within the wine industry, beginning with Babich Wines, before moving to Constellation Brands, and more recently to Indevin Group.

Starting with hands-on work in the vineyard, her journey has seen her move through logistical and commercial roles, before she leaped at the opportunity of becoming a grower liaison officer with Indevin, leaving a largely desk-based role to get back into the field. “Indevin has a large grower base, which means I get to meet and interact with a lot of different people. Our growers come from many backgrounds, and all walks of life,” she says.

“The days that I’m out and about, I’m catching up with growers, walking around their vineyards, talking politics and climate change, while inspecting the vines and looking out for any signs of trouble. Some days I get to eat a plum or an apple, or take home a bag of produce from their garden.

Those are the best days in my job.”

Tracy has a particular interest in pests and diseases in the vineyard, and the challenge of finding ways to combat

Tracy Gilmore and Poppy with Alan Hendrickson from Aratika Vineyards.

Photo by Santiago Vadillo

16 / Winepress March 2022

them in the most environmentally friendly ways possible.

She’s also proven her organisational skills in many different roles, including multiple harvests, during which she’s been part of the planning team responsible for harvest logistics.

From scheduling to helping with hand picks, as well as supervising harvesters, trucks and gondolas, Tracy has a good understanding of the essential elements of a smooth harvest.

This year, she’ll be working in Marlborough throughout vintage, taking on 10-hour shifts, six days a week, working with the company’s growers, and will also travel to Nelson to manage a smaller harvest.

Essentially, her job is to ensure the grapes make it safely to the winery. “I’ve never seen two harvests the same - each comes with its own set of challenges,” she says.

“I always love and rise to a challenge.”

Having supportive employers and tutors helps with the balancing act of taking on extramural studies alongside her work, she adds. “Indevin is very supportive of my studies, and regularly gives me flexibility for study days. I’ve also really enjoyed working with the tutors at NMIT, who are always supportive and encouraging.”

Taking on formal qualifications 16 years into her career was also a chance for Tracy to open more possibilities for herself. “I just felt that I had gone as far as I could go, and needed something extra; I have always had a passion for learning new things.”

She’s also grateful for the abundance of opportunities at work. “Indevin is the biggest wine company in New Zealand. There’s always something happening, it’s a very exciting place to work.”

“I’ve never seen two harvests the same - each comes with its own set of challenges.”

Tracy Gilmore

CELEBRATE

An unexpected career KAT DUGGAN After leaving Marlborough Boys’ College, Finn Pitman wasn’t sure of his career path. Taking a year out to mull it over, he signed up for vintage in 2015 to earn enough money to take himself travelling.

But harvest had him hooked, and by the end of that year Finn had landed himself a permanent role with Babich Wines, where he remains today as the cellar foreman. “I just love the harvest, the new people, the intensity and the fast pace,” he says, Taking on the permanent role didn’t stop Finn from squeezing some travel in, and he spent two harvests abroad, in Portugal and Germany.

In 2019, after a good few years cementing his love for the industry, Finn enrolled in the Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology (NMIT) Bachelor of Viticulture and Winemaking. “Work has been very supportive and gave me the time off to do my overseas harvests as well as help with my studies,” he says.

Studying part-time via distance, he is now in his final year of the degree. “I had done a bunch of harvests and that was pretty much the next step,” Finn adds. “I had no intention of [making wine my career], but it just ended up happening. I love it.”

Despite long hours and night shifts, Finn still thrives

Finn Pitman

on working harvest, noting that it is his favourite part of the job. This harvest will be Finn’s 10th, and he predicts it will be his most challenging yet, due to Covid-19, and the arrival of the Omicron variant in New Zealand.

Post pandemic, he hopes to be able to return to travelling the globe and working international harvests with his qualification in tow. “The pandemic put that on hold a bit… but I definitely want to go back overseas.”

Long-term, Finn is set on working in the winery, and hopes to one day land a winemaking role. “It sounds cliché but I like the mixture of science and art with winemaking.”

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Bounce Back Growing resilience in Marlborough’s wine industry SOPHIE PREECE

IDENTIFYING EMOTIONS like anger, sadness or fear can be a powerful tool in building resilience, says Bradley Hook of The Resilience Institute. “Name them, tame them and try to reframe them,” he advised attendees at a Wine Marlborough workshop in the lead-up to vintage.

That’s just one of the tools people can practice in order to recognise stages in a downward spiral, and respond rapidly to offset them. “We call resilience the learned ability to bounce - to recognise when we are on a downward spiral and bounce forward rather than back,” says Bradley.

The downward spiral flags emotions that indicate pressure on mental wellness, many of which are attributable to evolutionary responses, such as flight or fight, which can set off an overwhelming amount of pressure. The downward spiral’s stages begin with confusion and wind down to depression via disengagement, withdrawal, and vulnerability. The Resilience Institute has devised actions alongside those stages, starting with taking control by prioritising and focussing on a single task. Other stages including taking breaks, connecting with others, rejuvenating, and calming. The final action, at the bottom of the spiral, is to seek help.

Bradley advises people to build a routine that supports their energy peaks as well as breaks for rejuvenation, and that they stay on task, with minimised distractions, and create the conditions for the highly productive “flow” state, where the level of challenge and the level of skill are evenly matched, lifting performance by 500%, he says.

The virtual session follows on from Bradley’s Wine Marlborough workshop in November 2020, after the pressured Covid-19 vintage. As with that event, last month’s attendees were given access to the Resilience App and a resilience diagnostic assessment, which was completed by 28 people before the webinar and 20 more soon after.

The results showed a “super-high” score for integrity, as well as good results for emotional insights, compassion and optimism, “despite all the challenges”, says Bradley. The respondents had high biological insight (understanding how their body operates and awareness of stress) as well as high 18 / Winepress March 2022

“Our attention is quite fragmented and our brain doesn’t get a rest.”

Bradley Hook nutrition and low impulsivity, immune failure and selfabsorption.

It also showed “extremely high empathy,” which is excellent, but also carries the risk of “empathic distress”, where a person takes on the problems of the world around them, then finds they’ve been pushed to the bottom of their spiral as a result, says Bradley. That can be exacerbated by self-criticism, which was also deemed high by the diagnostic assessment.

Other undesirable attributes were overload, with fatigue “creeping up”, as well as hyper-vigilance, best described as the kind of person who checks their emails half an hour before bed. Sleep quality, health awareness (prioritising health quality) and contemplation were also relatively low.

Bradley challenged attendees to time travel back to 2008, when a cell phone was far less compelling than today’s technology. Back then people might enjoy a cup of tea while watching the clouds to determine the weather, whereas today they’re likely to check it while on their smartphone, whittling away quiet moments. “Our attention is quite fragmented and our brain doesn’t get a rest,” he says, urging wine industry members to prioritise time for contemplation, quality sleep and better health awareness.

The results showed that while 69% of the Marlborough respondents were in a reasonably balanced state, with the ratio of positive and negative attributes only slightly below the global average, 15% were operating with more negative influences, while 17% were in a positive place. Most of those with a better handle on resilience were older respondents, which is fairly typical around the world, says Bradley, noting that the 30 to 39 year-old bracket is feeling more pressure, which can be down to young families or work promotions, as well as other factors.

Bradley has interviewed people around the world to better understand how some people maintain high performance over decades. A Kung Fu master in Vietnam explained it well, he says. “Resilience is a small flame; it’s something that we can nurture by developing new skills.

It’s something we can rely on in times of challenge and it’s

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also something we can use to illuminate the path for ourselves and others, particularly in those times of intensity and high pressure.”

The Marlborough wine industry wishes to thank MPI for their support in funding the workshop. To access an array of resilience resources from the Resilience Institute, including the spiral, go to wine-marlborough.co.nz/resources/

Breathing Better

Nicky Hewett

SOPHIE PREECE MARLBOROUGH’S WINE industry was put under “huge pressure” in the 2020 vintage, says wellness practitioner and Cloudy Bay guest relations manager Nicky Hewett. “I didn’t realise how traumatic it was for some people until months later.”

Nicky, who worked from home throughout the first Covid-19 vintage, realised the “depth” of its impact when she returned to work. “I am not saying everybody – but some people definitely had a trauma response in relation to that event,” she says, talking of some staff feeling unsafe working through New Zealand’s first Alert Level 4 lockdown, separated from their family, or weighed down by the responsibility of working within the strict criteria of being an essential service.

In the time since there have been “ups and downs”, and continued uncertainty, including for those with family overseas, she says. “It’s definitely affected people’s immunity and that worries me.”

Nicky – who is a yoga instructor and conscious breathing coach – says Covid-19 is not the only thing adding stress to lives, with a changing world and evolving technology adding to pressure. “So, we definitely need to be able to manage our stress better.”

Since 2015, Nicky has done one-hour breathing workshops with staff at Cloudy Bay as part of their annual health and safety week, helping attendees learn about the power of conscious breathing. “Changing the way we breathe affects our emotional state,” she says, emphasising that physical and mental wellbeing are inextricably linked.

Now Cloudy Bay is developing a full-year wellbeing programme, so staff can get support at any time. As part of that, Nicky kicked off a series of 45-minute live virtual classes last month, with the weekly sessions followed by daily “bite-sized” audios - 5 to 10 minutes long - to build

and maintain momentum, and “start to embed the habit of better breathing into everyday life”, she says.

“I’m keen to introduce this model into other companies – it’s very accessible, requires no contact, and is focussed on stress release, relaxation, and a deeper understanding and awareness of our own breathing patterns and signature, and how to improve them.”

Nicky also ran a virtual breathing workshop for the broader wine industry last month, in the lead-up to the pressured vintage period. “As someone who supports people and reminds them of their strength and ability to take charge of their own situation in their life, I feel there is so much need out there,” she says. “People need support.

They need someone to give them comfort. They need to complete the stress response that is trapped in their body.

Which they can do through breathing and movement and being with others who are accepting and loving and responsive.”

So much has been out of people’s control in recent years, she says. “That creates a whole feeling of insecurity and worry… At the moment we are all going through a very similar experience - through a difference lens of course.” But while externalities are out of our hands, people can take charge of their breath, posture and mindset, she adds. “That is always available to us. No one can take that away.”

Vineyards & Viticulture Advisory Planning, Production, Problem Solving Mike Insley M: 021 229 8157 E: mike@grapesense.co.nz W: www.grapesense.co.nz

Winepress March 2022 / 19

CELEBRATE

Forgotten Corners Seeding a dream in the Awatere Valley SOPHIE PREECE

Photos by Kate Macpherson

MONDO KOPUA’S aspirations of island hopping involve biodiversity rather than beaches.

At Whenua Awa, on a terrace above the Awatere River and in the shadow of Tapuae-o-Uenuku, Mondo (Ngāti Porou) is working to create “islands” of biodiversity, including cliff faces with remnant and regenerating endemic species.

For the past two years he has been collecting seeds and cuttings from native plants at the vineyard, one of two sites where Māori-owned Wakatū grows grapes for its Tohu wine.

He has also sourced seed from other local sites, to ensure a good ecological mix at the vineyard. “It’s about identifying half a dozen species that are already naturally occurring, as well as other species that will establish really quickly in what is quite a hardy area, like kānuka, mānuka and ngaio.”

The steep rocky faces, along with the land atop, are also home to a thriving population of invasive old man’s beard.

So Mondo’s plan - part of Wakatū’s broader Whenua Ora (land wellness) programme - is to grow biodiversity while battling the pests that threaten it. “I have been selective in where I planted… they are islands of plantings that I can easily get around to do weed control and keep pushing the old man’s beard back.”

Mondo and a team of contractors planted more than 1,000 mānuka seedlings in spring, with more plants ready

to go in after harvest, when the company will also use contractors to tackle pest species, including old man’s beard. That weed work is partly funded by the Marlborough District Council (MDC) Mahi mō te Taiao/Working for Nature grant and will enable the development of more - and more successful - biodiversity pockets on the land, says Mondo.

An ecological report undertaken in 2002 highlighted the significance of endemic species in the 121-hectare property (70ha of it in vineyard), as the only riparian cliff site along the Awatere River stable enough to support native rockland vegetation to any significant degree, due to the stability of the conglomerate substrate, says Mondo. “Heliohebe hulkeana (New Zealand Lilac) - a Marlborough endemic - is more abundant here than at any other site in the district.”

The report was supported by a more recent survey, and Kono – Wakatū’s food and beverage producer - wants to grow on that natural success story, says Mondo. “We’re trying to protect what we have.”

The project is “close to his heart”, having joined Kono as a landscaper in 2001, before becoming a vineyard manager in 2006, then Whenua Ora Specialist two years ago. “I became involved in the wine side and now have come full circle,” Mondo says. While he was able to tackle biodiversity when he was a viticulturist, the new role allows him to dive

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deeper into whenua ora, including through an exploration of organics and regenerative viticulture, as well as biodiversity.

The planting project has been a learning curve, with procedures of seed collection and propagation different for each species.

“For the mānuka and kānuka, it’s just a matter of cutting some branches off,” Mondo says, explaining that when he hoisted two sacks of mānuka seed into Morgans Road Nursery - where plant guru Grant Robertson has been nurturing the seedlings to plantable stage - “he said, ‘jeez this will keep you going for hundreds of years’”.

Other species, like the lilac, are a tougher task, with the cutting required at just the right time of year, at just the right part of the plant. With some trial and error, Mondo has soaked up generous advice from Grant at Morgans Road and MDC Biodiversity Coordinator Mike Aviss.

As the vineyard’s biodiversity grows, Mondo hopes Wakatū whānau will visit sites the company’s food and wine is grown on, perhaps doing weeding, planting and seed collecting, and learning from those who hold the mātauranga, sharing the tikanga and history of the flora, fauna and the whenua, “so that it is passed on”.

“They are islands of plantings that I can easily get around to do weed control and keep pushing the old man’s beard back.”

He believes Covid-19 has had an unexpected spinoff of growing appreciation of the link between food and place, making projects like this more exciting to the community. “People are slowing down and reconnecting to the whenua.”

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Winepress March 2022 / 21

CELEBRATE

Generation Y-ine Zac Howell on taking every opportunity KAT DUGGAN

EXPOSURE TO good New Zealand wine while managing a restaurant in Hamilton sparked a new career interest for Zac Howell. Feeling as if he’d gone as far as he could with his hospitality career, and with a new-found love of wine, he decided to make the move to Canterbury to pursue a Bachelor of Viticulture and Oenology at Lincoln University.

A practical component of the course then saw him move to Marlborough for a summer in the vines in 2020, and he hasn’t looked back. Zac started out working for Ben McLauchlan, a former Lincoln student who owns Rothay Vineyards. “I was supposed to work for him just for the summer, but I’ve been with him ever since.”

He also took on winery work during the 2021 harvest with Vavasour Wines, and has recently landed a graduateship with Villa Maria, which will start just in time for harvest this year.

Each opportunity has presented the chance to gain winery experience, and following the 2022 vintage, Zac will stay on with Villa Maria, splitting his time between the vineyard and winery for the length of the three-year graduateship. “I really enjoyed my time in the winery last year, just the pace of everything. It’s all go, there’s a certain energy to it and the work is really appealing to me, so I’m definitely looking forward to harvest this year.”

Given that Zac’s first two vintages have been during the Covid-19 pandemic, his experience has been different to most, without the influx, and experience, of international workers. “Last year it felt like we were lacking that experience, but that in itself is a really good opportunity for someone like myself to step up,” he says.

Beyond vintage 2022, Zac is excited about the learning opportunities his graduateship presents, and the chance to explore the winery beyond harvest.

“I’ve heard from a number of people that Villa is a good place to get an overview,” Zac says. “At the moment I’m still working out whether I want to go further into the viticulture

“Last year it felt like we were lacking that experience, but that in itself is a really good opportunity for someone like myself to step up”

22 / Winepress March 2022

Zac Howell or wine side, but I definitely want to be looking at leadership roles, or even governance and board positions one day.”

Since beginning his studies, Zac has been awarded a number of scholarships, including the Lincoln University Summer Scholarship, Bragato Trust Undergraduate Award, KLIMA Viticultural Scholarship and the Horticulture NZ Undergraduate Scholarship.

The scholarships have been a mixture of monetary awards and opportunities for different industry experiences, and each has been invaluable for Zac. “I applied for that [first one] on the off chance that I might get it, and because I got that I got the confidence to apply for the others,” he says. “If you’re getting recognised for these things you kind of keep pushing and doing a bit more to get those opportunities.”

In 2021, Zac entered the Young Viticulturist competition, where he placed fourth and won the Ormond Nurseries Professional Reputation Award. “I’m definitely keen to give it another crack and see what I can do with a bit more experience.”

Zac is now just over halfway through his Bachelor of Viticulture and Winemaking at Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology, and feels confident with his decision to stay in the region. Alongside an abundance of new experiences, Zac has seen a side to wine that he never would have in hospitality. “You get an appreciation for where the wine comes from that I don’t think you really get from hospitality, or the retail side of things; where you don’t see the whole story.

It’s a cool thing to be a part of.”

Winepress March 2022 / 23

PROTECT

Biosecurity Watch Most Unwanted BMSB Updated 2022 SOPHIE BADLAND

THE BROWN marmorated stink bug is one of the highest risk exotic threats to the New Zealand wine industry, and several other horticultural industries. As well as feeding on fruit and damaging vines, brown marmorated stink bug (BMSB) has the potential to taint wine, emitting a foul-smelling chemical as a defence mechanism when threatened or squashed. This article provides an update on the BMSB situation in New Zealand and an overview of some of the work being carried out in preparation for its arrival.

High risk season 2021-22

The annual high risk season for BMSB began on September 1, 2021, and runs through until the end of April 2022.

Most countries with BMSB populations are in autumn/ winter throughout this period, triggering aggregation and overwintering behaviours in BMSB. BMSB look for dry, sheltered conditions in which to overwinter in large numbers, emitting an aggregation pheromone to tell other nearby BMSB to come and join them. Favourite overwintering spots include shipping containers, vehicles and outdoor machinery, hence the risk of these aggregations arriving on our shores as imports arrive from overseas. BMSB is also an indiscriminate hitchhiker, and single bugs or small clusters can often be found in international mail packages, the clothing or personal effects of travellers, and other goods generally classified as low risk.

Since the beginning of this year’s high risk season, 55 live BMSB have been found either at the border or postborder, a slight increase on the same time last year. The majority of these have been found on vessels arriving at New Zealand ports, or in goods and equipment from the United States, China and Italy. A few have been found in imported mail parcels, one in plastic wrapping around imported baleage wrap, and one in the vehicle being used by a family who had recently arrived from the US. This

highlights the need for everyone to remain vigilant; BMSB can and will make it past our border defences from time to time.

What is New Zealand Winegrowers doing?

New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) remains an active part of the Government-Industry Agreement for biosecurity readiness and response, and a member of the BMSB Council, which has developed an annual readiness workplan to address the risks posed by BMSB. The council has several projects underway across multiple workstreams, aiming to ensure the risk of BMSB entry to New Zealand is minimised, and that we have tools in place to successfully detect an incursion and respond rapidly and effectively. A further workstream is looking at ways to minimise impacts should BMSB successfully establish, and eradication becomes unfeasible.

Currently, NZW is leading a project to assess the options for rearing a colony of samurai wasps, an effective BMSB biocontrol. Samurai wasps kill BMSB by parasitising their egg masses. In 2018 the Environmental Protection Agency granted approval for the samurai wasp to be released should a BMSB incursion happen in New Zealand.

However, the samurai wasp is also exotic to New Zealand and must be reared in containment on a suitable host species, which is difficult as the most suitable host is BMSB. The project is investigating a range of options, such as the use of non-viable BMSB eggs to rear the wasps on, or use of an alternative host species already present in New Zealand.

NZW will also take part in and provide feedback on an exercise due to take place shortly to test the response plan the council has developed for a BMSB incursion. A biosecurity services provider has been engaged, and the exercise will test some of the practicalities of a BMSB response. This includes mapping affected areas, establishing response zones, assembly and deployment of pheromone traps, host plant identification, and trap monitoring.

IF YOU SEE ANYTHING UNUSUAL

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PROTECT from MPI Plant Health and Environment Laboratory

They are using our heard post of drivers hereseen campaign imagery). The to have BMSB and National awareness campaign reviewed

BMSB Council is currently working to adjust the awareness The BMSB Council has also recently reviewed the BMSB campaign accordingly for future seasons. awareness campaign, which has been running since 2014.

Catch It, Snap It, Report It! The review findings highlighted that while a significant NZW reminds all members to keep an eye out for BMSB, proportion of those surveyed were aware of or had heard of in the vineyard and wherever you travel. Adult BMSB are BMSB, more can be done to highlight the damage this pest about 17mm in length (a lot larger than New Zealand shield can do and why people should report it if they see it. bugs) and have distinctive black and white banding on the Of the respondents who had heard of BMSB, most abdomen and antennae. If you suspect you’ve found one understood that it was damaging to horticultural industries (you don’t need to be positive), catch it, take a photo, and and the natural environment, however, many were not call the Biosecurity New Zealand hotline on 0800 80 99 confident they could correctly identify a BMSB or tell it apart from similar looking stink bugs. The review concluded 66. You can also get in touch with the NZW biosecurity team by emailing biosecurity@nzwine.com. If you’d like that to increase awareness of BMSB amongst the general further information about BMSB or any of the other New Zealand public, future campaigns should target biosecurity threats thatPost could affect the wine industry, There are many benefits that owners like about FENCEPRO Drivers younger people (under 45 years old) and those who do not ● FENCEPRO has a modular build system so you can adapt your post driver to suit your local conditions and budget. check our website at nzwine.com/members/sustainability/ spend a lot of time outdoors or in the garden (frequent ● Proven to give trouble free operation year after year, even in the most demanding conditions oraftergive Sophie (027 700 4142) gardeners and those who worked outdoors were more likely ● FENCEPRO Post drivers have incrediblebiosecurity/ resale value - they are very sought second hand ● Sold through a Nationwide dealer network so you have local knowledge and local after sales support or Jim (027 644 8010) a call. ● Manufactured in New Zealand to world class engineering standards. Meticulous attention to every detail. ● Designed to be user-friendly and versatile so you build your fences faster and easier.

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Winepress March 2022 / 25

Industry News Young horticulturist Marlborough viticulturist Rhys Hall has won the 2021 New Zealand Young Horticulturist (Kaiahuone Rangatahi o te Tau) competition.

It is the third consecutive time a viticulturist has taken the title, with Rhys - assistant vineyard manager for Indevin's Bankhouse Estate - following in the footsteps of Simon Gourley and Annabel Bulk, both Central Otago viticulturists at the time of their wins.

Rhys says the prize money will help toward a trip to France planned for July this year. “I am taking annual leave to visit vineyards, learn more about the wine, and see how other people are producing around the world. It will be a very educational experience, I am sure. I am so excited.”

Rhys praised the competition, its organisers, and the many supporters. “The trust is doing an amazing job and I really appreciate that this competition exists for young people to develop them and I hope it inspires other young people to join the horticulture sector.”

Rhys receives the winner’s trophy as well as a $7,500 travel, accommodation or professional development package, $1,000 ICL specialty fertilisers, a one-year membership to The New Zealand Institute of Agricultural & Horticultural Science, an AEG 18V 12” Brushless Chainsaw, and an AEG 18V four Piece Fusion Kit. The Young Horticulturist Competition remains a rigorous event that attracts impressive young people from the wider horticultural industry, says the competition’s chairperson Hamish Gates. “The aim of the competition is to encourage young people in horticulture to further develop their skills and knowledge and to increase the opportunities for long-term careers in the industry. It identifies tomorrow’s horticultural leaders and is an important event for the primary sectors of New Zealand.”

High flyer Marrying two of Marlborough’s stellar industries has been a flying success for PMH Aviation, with its Vintage Over the Vintage scenic flights. The attraction, which sees guests cruise above Marlborough wine country in Foxy - a 1947 de Havilland Fox Moth – has been named as one of 50 Wine Experiences in Australia and New Zealand by Gourmet Traveller Wine Magazine. “We get recognition from our customers all the time,” says Pip Hally of PMH Aviation, who’s chuffed to have that recognition from a prestigious magazine as well. “We are doing what we love, and showing people our home and what Marlborough has to offer.”

Foxy was bought new by the Marlborough Aero Club in 1947 and returned to Marlborough 61 years later. Now it’s being used to celebrate Marlborough’s globally renown aviation and wine industries. Flight times range from 15 minutes to an hour, and the most common routes are inland over the Waihopai Valley’s vines, with views of the Kaikōura Ranges, or coastal, over Yealands at Seaview then around the White Bluffs. And all customers leave with a bottle of wine, says Pip. The Station also gets a nod by the magazine, while Underground at Framingham - “Marlborough’s home to live gigs, as well as art exhibitions and an historic wine cellar” - is also named as one of the 50 wine experiences.

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E-asy solutions to winery waste Marlborough District Council (MDC) environmental protection officer Tonia Stewart is looking forward to working closely with the wine industry using the council’s 4Es monitoring strategy - engaging, educating, enabling and enforcing. “I think you get a better response with people if they can see you were trying to work with them,” she says.

Administrative errors are dragging down winery waste compliance records in Marlborough, with 32% of monitored wineries rated technically non-compliant last vintage. That means the breach - such as a failure to keep records - caused minor or no adverse environmental effects.

In a winery waste webinar held with Wine Marlborough last month, Tonia and environmental scientist Matt Oliver suggested wineries check their resource consent before vintage, to ensure reporting is timely and accurate. The onus is on wineries to get the dates and information correct, they said. “If you will miss your deadline, please inform council as soon as possible to see if an extension can be granted.”

Sixteen wineries (40%) received a “green light” for full compliance in the last vintage, but that percentage would have been far higher had companies reported on time, says Matt. Of the remaining 11 wineries (28%), 10 were rated as non-compliant, with two of these non-compliant with only one condition or rule, and eight wineries non-compliant with two or more conditions or rules. The final winery was rated as significantly non-compliant and council continues to work with the company involved.

Tonga appeal

Export certification

Rotary New Zealand is calling on New Zealand’s wine industry to support its appeal for Tongan communities, following the January 15 volcanic eruption and tsunami.

Executive director Stuart Batty says a partnership with the MORDI Tonga Trust has seen hundreds of Emergency Response Kits delivered to communities on the islands of Tongatapu, ‘Eua and Ha’apai. Each kit holds over 60 items packed in a 78-litre container and includes tarpaulins, hammer and nails, a folding shovel, fishing gear, a hunting knife, and cooking equipment as well as basic clothing, homewares and a medical pack.

They’re resources that could be used to build a basic shelter, clothe a family and enable fishing, gardening and water collection. Stuart says the kits will need to be replenished come winter, and the appeal continues to be a priority. facebook.com/EmergencyResponseKits/

The Marlborough Chamber of Commerce is inviting wineries to get in touch about export certification.

Office coordinator Louisa Murray (pictured) says certification can be a “daunting task” to those new to the procedure.

“Certificates of Origin (CO) are an essential component of international trade. They confirm that the goods in a particular shipment have been wholly obtained, produced, manufactured or processed in a particular country,” she says. “One of the most common questions is, ‘when should I apply for my CO?’ With global shipping disruptions, it has been increasingly common for ships to be overbooked, which results in containers being delayed as the shipment gets “rolled” to the next vessel.

This means they will have to wait another two weeks for potential space on another vessel. As a CO requires specific voyage details, including ship name, we strongly recommend that our clients apply for their CO after departure.”

The Marlborough Chamber of Commerce offers a twohour turnaround service for ‘wet-stamp’ certificates and a 48-hour turnaround on e-certificates, she says. “A minority of countries do not yet accept the e-certificate, and we can advise customers on these along with any additional steps they may require.”

For help with Certificates of Origin, Certificates of Free Sale, Certificates of Manufacture and Letters of Introduction in English, Spanish, Portuguese, and Italian, go to marlboroughchamber.nz

CLASSIFIEDS FOR SALE WINE BARRELS

White, Sylvain 300L Cigares (6 units) and 225L Blanc (1 unit) Red, Sylvain Grande reserve (12 units) and D&J (3 units) Vintage 2015 to 2020. Price us a function of age

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Winepress March 2022 / 27

Wine Happenings

A monthly list of events within the New Zealand wine industry.

To have your event included in the January Wine Happenings, please email details to sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz by March 21. Due to uncertainty around Covid-19, there may be changes to some of these events. For more information, please use the contact supplied or email sarah@winemarlborough.nz

MARCH 25 Méthode Marlborough Day (methodemarlborough.org) APRIL 3 Forrest Sunday Sessions, with live music from 1pm to 4pm every Sunday in April 9 – 10 A Midsummer Night’s Dream with the Barden Party (Shakespeare and a Garden Party) – Forrest Estate Winery Cellar Door (eventfinda.co.nz) MAY 6 Sauvignon Blanc Day - sauvignonblancday.co.nz 6 Feast Marlborough’s Bayleys Friday Night Feast (feastmarlborough.nz) 7 Framingham Harvest Concert 6pm to 11pm (eventfinda.co.nz) 7 Saint Clair Vineyard Half (vineyardhalf.com) 20-21 Winetopia Auckland (winetopia.co.nz) 23-26 Green Wine Future 2022 (greenwinefuture.com) 26 International Chardonnay Day JUNE 13 Grape Days Marlborough JULY 1-2 Winetopia Wellington (winetopia.co.nz) 7-10 Marlborough Book Festival (marlboroughbookfest.co.nz)

Sauvignon Blanc Day - May 6

28 / Winepress March 2022

Winetopia - May 20 - 21

Marlborough Book Festival - July 7 - 10

Accelerating success.

For Sale

Ballochdale Estate - Premium Marlborough Vineyard For Sale by Deadline Sale closing Thursday 24 March 2022 at 2pm (unless sold prior) Ballochdale Road, Awatere Valley, Marlborough One of Marlboroughs most notable vineyards on a spectacular site in the Awatere Valley. A total canopy of 28.35ha producing premium wines and held in high regard by several well respected wine companies and industry commentators.

Ballochdale vineyard comprises 19.44ha of premium clone Pinot Noir and 8.91ha of Sauvignon Blanc. 12ha supply agreement free for V2023 with the total vineyard GSA free for V2024 giving access to a quality parcel of premium fruit.

The wine produced from this vineyard has received a long list of accolades. The proven vines, selected clones, soil, the sloping northern aspect and the regions climate provide ideal terroir for premium quality wine. Irrigation water is supplied from a large storage dam providing security for the summer months and four frost fans assist the sloping natural contour for frost protection. The aesthetic setting and proven production history will certainly appeal and inspection of this highly regarded vineyard will impress.

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Winepress March 2022 / 29

Fruitfed Supplies Blenheim achieves major milestone

The Blenheim store has recently gained its BRCGS certification.

This certification represents Fruitfed Supplies’ commitment to supporting their customers and New Zealand’s viticulture industry.

The Blenheim store stocks a wide range of supplies for both conventional and organic wineries including: > Dry goods & enzymes > Cleaning products > Fermentation & filter aids > Yeast & sugar > Fining products

fruitfedsupplies.co.nz

A trading division of PGG Wrightson Ltd