Winepress - May 2021

Winepress THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF WINE MARLBOROUGH

ISSUE NO. 317/ MAY 2021

GROWTH FORECAST

CELEBRATING SAUVIGNON

SEASONAL WORKERS

KELP HELP

Photo: Jim Tannock

wine-marlborough.co.nz

4 10

this issue...

REGULARS

FEATURES

3 4 6

10 Vintage View

24 26 26 28

Editorial - Sophie Preece

From The Board - Beth Forrest Tasman Crop Met Report Rob Agnew Good Stuff - Mick Norton Biosecurity Watch Jim Herdman

12

Industry News Wine Happenings

Cover: Giesen’s Duncan Shouler says Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is all about the place it comes from. He’s one of the voices in the Project Harvest digital campaign, singing Sauvignon’s praises. Photo by Jim Tannock. Page 12

Lighter than anticipated grape yields in 2021, coupled with strong demand for Marlborough wine, will change the industry, say those anticipating “short term intense pain”, for longer term gains.

Project Veraison Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc’s brand equity is being undermined by deep discounting and overfamiliar consumers in Australia. But there is huge opportunity to boost the value of the category, according to Project Veraison.

18 Vakameasina

18

For the past 11 years, Walter Nungnung has left his home on Ambrym Island and come to New Zealand with the Recognised Seasonal Employer scheme, for seasonal work in vineyards and learnings through Vakameasina.

22

Winepress May 2021 / 1

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General Manager: Marcus Pickens 03 577 9299 or 021 831 820 marcus@winemarlborough.nz Editor: Sophie Preece 027 308 4455 sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz Advertising and Subscriptions: Sarah Linklater 021 704 733 sarah@winemarlborough.nz Wine Marlborough Board: Anna Laugesen Anna.laugesen@xtra.co.nz Ben Ensor ben@mcdonaldtextiles.co.nz Beth Forrest Beth@forrest.co.nz Callum Linklater callum@csviticulture.co.nz Gus Altschwager gus@akwines.net Jamie Marfell Jamie.Marfell@pernod-ricard.com Kirsty Harkness kirsty@mountbase.co.nz Nick Entwistle nick@wairauriverwines.com Tom Trolove (Chair) tom.trolove@framingham.co.nz Tracy Johnston Tracy@dayvinleigh.co.nz Designed by: Blenheim Print Ltd 03 578 1322

From the Editor THIS MONTH’S Winepress is somewhat Sauvignon-centric, which seems fitting, given the celebration of International Sauvignon Blanc day on May 7.

The same week will see Project Harvest cast out across Australian social media, singing the praises of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, and the place it comes from.

That digital campaign is an offshoot of Project Veraison (pages 12-15), a New Zealand Trade and Enterprise initiative “repositioning” Marlborough Sauvignon in the Australian market, where years of constant discounting have helped erode perceptions of the category. Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc still makes up 40% of the wine consumed in Australian homes, but 10% are drinking less than they were a year ago, says project leader Catherine Wansink, noting that the category’s success may be based on its consistency, but so is its downfall, with 12% of respondents considering it boring.

Project Harvest is just one of the tools at work to change that image, with wine folk like Giesen winemaker Duncan Shouler talking of extraordinary wines and the amazing place they come from. “It’s literally Marlborough in a bottle,” says Duncan (page 15) who graces this month’s cover.

But Covid-19 and a small harvest are also playing a major role in refreshing Sauvignon’s space, somewhat counterintuitively. Covid-19, because exports boomed for New Zealand wine during global lockdowns, surprising many, and Marlborough Sauvignon led that charge. And the small harvest because, despite the economic pain carried by light crop loads, the supply shortfall will help push a premium shift, says Villa Maria’s Matt Deller in the vintage update on page 10.

While the company’s Private Bin wines will be cut back as a result of low crops, their reserve and single vineyard Sauvignon Blanc volumes will “proportionately double”, thanks to the quality of the fruit, says Matt. “It’s really healthy for Villa Maria and healthy for the New Zealand wine industry.”

Sauvignon Blanc is also at the root of the planned vineyard expansions revealed by the new Marlborough Wine Industry Growth Forecast 2020, commissioned by Wine Marlborough. Marlborough’s vineyard area is expected to grow by 5,150 hectares by 2024/25, taking the total planted area to 34,145 ha.

That’s driven by global demand for Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, says Wine Marlborough general manager Marcus Pickens on page 9.

The variety has propelled Marlborough to the world stage, played a huge role in the region’s economic development, and continues to drive the country’s wine exports. That certainly seems worth a toast.

Disclaimer: The views and articles that are

expressed and appear in Winepress are entirely those of contributors and in no way reflect the policy of the Marlborough Winegrowers. Any advice given, implied or suggested should be considered on its merits, and no responsibility can be taken for problems arising from the use of such information.

This document is printed on an environmentally responsible paper, produced using elemental chlorine free (EFC), third party pulp from responsible sources, manufactured under the strict ISO 14001 Environmental Management System and is 100% Recyclable.

SOPHIE PREECE

Winepress May 2021 / 3

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From the Board Relationships key in coming months BETH FORREST

AS I took a walk around the block last night with the dogs, noting green leaf still on vine and pruning already underway, it was a time to reflect upon a very early and once again incongruous vintage 2021. The words of my pioneering father come to mind, which gain strength in every year I put under my belt: “There is never one the same as another.”

Vintage 2021 in Marlborough will be recorded by New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW), once final numbers are reported, as at least 30% below the long-term average (LTA) in most locations. The significant frost events of late spring and a cool, persistent southeasterly weather pattern, accompanied by rain through flowering, had significant effects on final crop levels throughout Marlborough. While the effects will vary from grower to grower and winery to winery, the overall significance on the region should not be underestimated.

4 / Winepress May 2021

The wine industry of Marlborough has always had an amazing collegiality - a place to openly share ideas, spare a kg of yeast between wineries, and lend a tractor across the fence when things get busy. I believe this will be our strength over the coming years as we face a supply conundrum never experienced before from this small but mighty wine region. With 30% less product going out into the marketplace, the purse strings will be tightly tied in many companies. Labour is precarious at best, and costs, across all facets of the wine business, look set to rise dramatically due to supply issues, border restrictions and wage increases.

It is a time to pool resources, work smarter and embrace the think tank of industry we have here in our little slice of paradise. I was heartened to see people embracing the known lack of labour and pushing on with pruning early.

Last discussions with NZW indicate that the region will be

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1,100 winter pruners short to complete the job in a ‘normal’ timeframe. This can be converted to at least an extra month of pruning time required under normal circumstances. But many of the winter pruners at our disposal this year are untrained and inexperienced, so make sure to factor lesser outputs per hour or day or week in your pruning plans.

all varieties - truly one of the best vintages, with intense flavours, defining acidity and fruit concentration in excess.

Make sure to understand the frustrations and roadblocks your wine companies will face as they work on increased pricing to reflect the high quality products coming from our region. Discuss how you can work

“The fruit on vine was of exceptional quality across all varieties - truly one of the best vintages, with intense flavours, defining acidity and fruit concentration in excess.”

In moving the timing of pruning either forward or back to ensure completion, make sure you are aware of any risks to vine health. With sap running and open wounds, be sure to check in with our local and very supportive Bragato Research Institute (BRI) team about trunk disease and sealing cuts. If you want to work with your labour contractor to gain efficiencies, then discuss pre-pruning, barrel pruning and many other mechanised pre-start options or alternatives. But always ask questions about the long-term effects on vine health. We all want to see highly fruitful vintages in our future, so look after each vine and think how we could do things better, smarter, and together.

The coming months will be a time of working on our relationships. That is those within our local community - between growers and wineries, service providers and operators - and also our global relationships between wine companies and distributors, outlets, and consumers.

We have the ultimate opportunity to premiumise brand ‘Marlborough’ on the global stage and now is the time to embrace this, as the silver lining for vintage 2021 was the temperate, dry weather conditions from veraison to harvest. The fruit on vine was of exceptional quality across

together as grape suppliers and purchasers; understand the increased costs on the ground and, likewise, those facing the production teams. Take time to consider the issues with global shipping in a post-Covid world and the slow cashflow returns facing many companies as wine waits patiently for a ship at ports throughout New Zealand. Many of these issues are beyond what we can control, but their effects can be managed through communication, knowledge, and empathy between all parties. In the words of Rachel Hunter, ‘’it won’t happen overnight, but it will happen”.

The winter season as always is a time to regroup and also to celebrate a successful vintage. Take time to reflect on your year; be inspired by successful trials, replants or redevelopments, great wines or new varieties coming through the winery. Check in with friends, neighbours, and colleagues, enjoy time with them over a warm fire, a fishing rod, or a glass of the best stuff. Think ahead, be ready and let us all be a part of making Marlborough the world’s greatest wine region.

Cheers, Beth

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MET REPORT Table 1: Blenheim Weather Data – April 2021

April April 2021 April

2021 compared to LTA LTA GDD’s for: Month - Max/Min¹ 135.4 122% 110.6 Month – Mean² 136.3 120% 113.8 Growing Degree Days Total Jul 20 - Apr 21 – Max/Min 1421.1 106% 1343.9 Jul 20 - Apr 21 – Mean 1443.3 105% 1376.3 Mean Maximum (°C) 20.2 +1.3°C 18.9 Mean Minimum (°C) 8.8 +0.8°C 8.0 Mean Temp (°C) 14.5 +1.0°C 13.5 Grass Frosts (<= -1.0°C) 0 1 less 1.14 Air Frosts (<0.0°C) 0 - 0.14 Sunshine hours 210.6 110% 191.6 Sunshine hours – lowest 92.1 Sunshine hours – highest 238.5 Sunshine hours total – 2021 992.2 108% 915.7 Rainfall (mm) 7.8 15% 50.9 Rainfall (mm) – lowest 0.6 Rainfall (mm) – highest 173.0 Rainfall total (mm) – 2021 117.6 65% 181.3 Evapotranspiration – mm 77.3 121% 64.0 Avg. Daily Windrun (km) 207.6 95% 218.6 Mean soil temp – 10cm 13.1 +1.0°C 12.

Mean soil temp – 30cm 15.1 +0.5°C 14.6

Period of LTA

April 2020

(1996-2020) (1996-2020)

116.7 120.1

(1996-2020) 1374.0 (1996-2020) 1423.0 (1986-2020) 20.1 (1986-2020) 7.6 (1986-2020) 13.8 (1986-2020) 2 (1986-2020) 0 (1986-2020) 233.4 1938 1958 (1986-2020) 983.3 (1986-2020) 24.2 1992 1962 (1986-2020) 44.2 (1996-2020) 81.9 (1996-2020) 226.2 (1986-2020) 11.2 (1986-2020) 12.1

¹GDD’s Max/Min are calculated from absolute daily maximum and minimum temperatures ²GDD’s Mean are calculated from average hourly temperatures

Temperature Blenheim’s mean air temperature for April was 14.5°C, 1.0°C above the long-term average (LTA). This is the 10th equal warmest April on record for Blenheim for the

90 years 1932 to 2021 and the warmest April since 2013 and 2014, which recorded 14.7 and 14.5°C respectively.

The data in Table 2 indicate that the first three weeks of April recorded well above average temperatures. However, the final six days of April (25th to 30th) were much cooler with some cold overnight temperatures.

The coldest morning in April was the 29th with an air minimum temperature of 3.4°C (4.6°C below the LTA April minimum) and a grass minimum temperature of -0.2°C. There were no ground frosts in April 2021.

April 2020 recorded 2 ground frosts.

The hottest day was the 5th April with a maximum temperature of 26.7°C (6.8°C above the LTA April maximum).

This was the warmest April maximum temperature in the past 30 years; 15 April 1990 recorded 26.8°C.

Sunshine Blenheim recorded 210.6 hours sunshine in April, 110% of the longterm average (LTA). Total sunshine for the first four months of 2021 is 992.2 hours; 108% of the long-term average (1986-2020).

Rainfall Blenheim recorded 7.8 mm rain for April, only 15% of the LTA of 50.9 mm. This is the lowest April rainfall

Table 2: Weekly weather data for Blenheim during April 2021

1 – 7 April 8 – 14 April 15 – 21 April 22 – 28 April 29 – 30 April (2 days)

Mean Mean Mean Rainfall Sunshine Wind-run Maximum Minimum (mm) (hours) (km) 21.0 (+2.1) 9.0 (+1.0) 15.0 ( +1.5) 1.2 56.3 225.4 21.6 (+2.7) 11.3 (+3.3) 16.5 (+3.0) 6.2 43.8 194.0 19.8 (+0.9) 8.7 (+0.7) 14.2 (+0.7) 0.0 43.3 221.3 18.4 (-0.5) 7.6 (-0.4) 13.0 (-0.5) 0.4 50.3 204.7 19.7 (+0.8) 4.2 (-3.8) 11.9 (-1.6) 0.0 16.9 155.5

April 2021

Long-term Average 1986-2020

20.2 8.8 14.5 7.8 (+1.3°C) (+0.8°C) (+1.0°C) (15%)

210.6 (110%)

207.6 (95%)

18.9°C

191.6 hours

218.6 km

6 / Winepress May 2021

8.0°C

13.5°C

50.9 mm

total since April 2010, which recorded 7.2 mm. It is also the 6th lowest April rainfall total on record for the 92 years 1930 to 2021. Total rainfall from January to April 2021 was 117.6 mm, 65% of the LTA. Total rainfall for the 8-month growing season, September 2020 to April 2021 (Figure 1 & Table 3), was 309.2 mm, 80% of the LTA. However, only 3 of the 8 months recorded above average rainfall. The high rainfall totals in November and March helped to pull the season total up. The 5 months with below average rainfall all recorded totals that were less than half the monthly average.

Figure 1: Blenheim rainfall for the 8-month growing season, September 2020 to April 2021

Soil Moisture Shallow soil moisture on 1 April 2021 was 35.3% following 77.8 mm rain from 28 to 31 March. The topsoil was wetter than normal throughout April, but shallow soil moisture had dropped to 26.8% by 30 April with low April rainfall. The major rain event at the end of March was of benefit for Marlborough farmers, as air and soil temperatures were well above average through April which gave a boost to autumn pasture growth. The rain also helped to ease the very dry conditions that had prevailed from December 2020 to 26 March 2021. However, with low rainfall in April there would have been little soil moisture recharge and soil moisture deeper in the soil profile will still be very dry. Substantial rainfall will be required from May to August 2021 to ensure that soil moisture recharge occurs prior to spring.

Table 3: Monthly weather summary for Blenheim, for the 2020-21 growing season in comparison to the long-term average

LTA 20/21 LTA 20/21 LTA 20/21 LTA 20/21 LTA 20/21 LTA 20/21 LTA 20/21

Rain Rain Mean Mean Mean Mean Mean Mean GDD GDD ET ET Sun Sun Max Max Min Min mm mm °C °C °C °C °C °C mm mm hours hours Sep

52.9

64.6

16.3

17.5

6.0

6.4

11.1

11.9 (+0.8) 52.1

77.3

72.8

93.3

195.3

260.3

Oct

56.8

22.4

18.4

19.2

7.9

9.5

13.1 14.3 (+1.2) 101.1

136.6

102.9

114.4

230.6

224.8

Nov

50.6

81.8

20.0

19.9

9.5

10.5

14.8 15.2 (+0.4) 143.9

156.7

122.3

105.4

239.6

180.0

Dec

47.3

22.8

21.9

21.0

11.7

11.7

16.8 16.7 (-0.1) 211.9

207

140.4

143.2

250.7

255.4

Jan

43.2

7.8

23.5

24.5

12.8

12.4

18.2 18.4 (+0.2) 251.9

261.6

143.5

172.3

263.0

309

Feb

46.6

22.8

23.3

23.3

12.5

11.6

17.9 17.5 (-0.4) 223.7

209.8

115.2

123.3

230.5

263.9

Mar

40.6

79.2

21.5

21.5

10.6

10.8

16.1 16.2 (+0.1) 189.8

191.4

99.7

99.9

230.5

208.8

Apr 50.9 7.8 18.9 20.2 8.0 8.8 13.5 14.5 (+1.0) 106.1 135.4 64.0 77.3 191.6

210.6

Total 388.9 309.2 1280.5 1421.1 860.7 929.1 1831.9 1912.7 Mean 20.5 21.0 9.9 10.2 15.2 15.6 % of LTA

80%

+0.5°C

+0.3

+0.4°C

111%

108%

104%

or deviation

Long-term average (LTA) – 1986-2020 Winepress May 2021 / 7

Season Weather Summary (September 2020 to April 2021) Table 3 summarises the eight months of the growing season, September to April. Further daily data or monthly summaries for the Blenheim and Dashwood weather stations can be found on the Marlborough Research Centre website: www.mrc.org.nz

Figure 2: Normalized Growing degree days for Blenheim: days above (+) or below (-) the long-term average for the period 1 September to 30 April

Six of the eight months of the 2020-21 growing season recorded mean temperatures that were above average and two months recorded below average temperatures (Table 3). The overall average for the season was 0.4°C above the LTA. The growing degree day line for the 2020-21 season tracked above the longterm average (Figure 2 – black line). However, there were some significant cool periods, indicated by periods when the GDD line has a downwards slope.

Rob Agnew Plant & Food Research / Marlborough Research Centre

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Expanding Horizons Opportunity and challenge in Marlborough’s vineyard expansion SOPHIE PREECE

MARLBOROUGH’S VINEYARD area is continuing to grow, with another 5,150 hectares expected by 2024/25, taking the total planted area to 34,145ha. The results of the new Marlborough Wine Industry Growth Forecast 2020 show a high level of confidence in the region’s wine industry, says Wine Marlborough general manager Marcus Pickens, who was nonetheless surprised by the extent of expansion plans. “There was a sense that the stellar growth of the past 10 years was set to slow, as the potential planting area declined. But the Upper Wairau is increasingly seen as viable vineyard space, and global demand for Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is driving continued investment.”

While some of the planned plantings are in the traditional Central and Lower Wairau Valley, and the Awatere subregion, 46% is forecast to occur in the Upper Wairau Valley, says the report, commissioned by Wine Marlborough and undertaken by Fruition Horticulture.

Marlborough’s producing vineyard area has grown by 46% in the ten years to 2020, with the next largest region in New Zealand - Hawke’s Bay - having grown by just 1%, it says. “The differences in scale and expansion are vast, with Marlborough’s 46% growth equating to 8,784 additional hectares over the past 10 years against 41 additional hectares.”

The survey was conducted in November and December 2020 and included 50 wine companies and growers, four winery-only businesses and 14 contractors, including two contractors who supply vineyard machinery services. It found continued strong optimism in the Marlborough wine industry, driven largely by strong international demand for the region’s Sauvignon Blanc. That confidence is “tempered” to some degree by growers’ “significant labour concerns” for winter pruning in 2021 and steeply rising labour costs.

However, wineries are competing for available grapes from Marlborough growers, which is fuelling planting intentions, and the authors surmised that the smaller than expected harvest for the 2021 vintage - subsequent to the survey results - “is only likely to reaffirm these planting and growth intentions”.

The expansion – “testimony to the global impact of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc” - comes with opportunities

Wairau River’s 2021 harvest. Photo Mike Heydon

and challenges, says Fruition horticultural consultant Greg Dryden. “The increased vineyard area, and estimates that wineries will process 440,100 tonnes for vintage 2025, up 33% from vintage 2020, will mean significant job growth for the region,” he says.

The Marlborough Wine Industry Growth Forecast 2020 estimates a 17% increase (1,515 workers) in the number of workers required to meet the labour demands of the increased vineyard area, with an 8% increase in permanent and 20% increase in seasonal labour. Recruiting and retaining that staff, and ensuring enough accommodation, will require plenty of work, says Greg. “But we have learned a lot in the past year of labour shortages, and the industry is already working to do better with finding, retaining and housing its people.” He also notes that the labour needs of the wine industry have changed in the five years since the last labour market survey, and are likely to evolve more into the future.

The 2016 report forecast a total vineyard labour force of 10,304 for 2019/20, but the requirement was just 8,986 for 2020/21. “Contractors have commented that the labour market is quite different now than what it was in 2016,” the authors say. “In particular, in 2020/21 there are less contractors, a highly experienced (mostly RSE) workforce, longer seasons (pruning) and most operating six day working weeks.”

Greg also notes that there is a lot of agritech being developed within the wine industry, which may end up “capping” the labour requirement, because growers facing spiralling costs are looking for ways to increase mechanisation, while tools like augmented reality for pruning are on the horizon. “It’s certainly closer than many people realise.”

As with the 2016 survey, the latest iteration reveals that finding workers with the right attitude and work ethic is the biggest challenge. “In 2020, this was reiterated by many, but many also outlined a number of new and successful initiatives to recruit and retain workers”, it says. “These included flexible working hours, accommodation and transport assistance, extensive training opportunities and competitive rates of pay.”

Marcus says the continued expansion of the wine industry will bolster Marlborough’s economy. “Wine has a huge impact on the financial health of this region, and these growth plans will make it an even more significant player.”

Winepress May 2021 / 9

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Vintage 2021 Desperately seeking Sauvignon SOPHIE PREECE The 2021 Pinot Noir harvest at Nautilus. Photos by Richard Briggs

THE PHONES started ringing hot before the first grape was picked, says Wairau River Wines general manager Lindsay Parkinson. As word spread that Marlborough’s crop was looking lighter than expected, buyers – old and new – clamoured to secure Sauvignon Blanc orders, “and the enquires have not stopped coming”.

It’s a similar story for other wine companies in Marlborough, with lighter than expected crops running headlong into higher than typical sales demand, spurred on by Covid-19 lockdowns. Villa Maria’s chief global sales and marketing officer Matt Deller has fielded plenty of messages from buyers desperately seeking Sauvignon. His response has become fairly standard, letting them know that “Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is no longer the world’s greatest wine bargain and is finally realising the value it deserves”. Matt says premium branded wine is the present and future for Marlborough’s flagship variety, while “bulk private label is in the past”.

Marlborough’s lower than expected 2021 yields represent an “absolute opportunity” for the industry, says Matt. “It gives us the opportunity to prioritise our higher tiers, so proportionately it will accelerate our premiumisation.” While the company’s Private Bin entry level wines will be cut back as a result of low crops, their Reserve and Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc volumes will “proportionately double”, thanks to the quality of the fruit, says Matt. “It’s really healthy for Villa Maria and healthy for the New Zealand wine industry.”

Blank Canvas co-owner and winemaker Matt Thomson agrees, saying there has been “a movement in power from the people who decide what goes on the shelves to the people who own the supply, and particularly the vineyards.”

The low crops will bring “short term intense pain, for a longer term gain”, he says. “It is an opportunity for our industry to refocus on premium.”

Forrest Estate general manager Beth Forrest says the tight harvest and strong demand brings opportunity, but also enormous challenges. “It’s a small but mighty wine growing region, but we are suddenly having to deal with supply issues we have never had to deal with before…

There’s a critical point there where we are actually out of 10 / Winepress May 2021

stock. And the world hasn’t had to deal with New Zealand saying ‘no’ before.”

A surge in retail demand around the world last year saw sales climb by 20% to 30% and New Zealand wine exports reach $2 billion, she says. “The clean green, tidy, healthy freedom that has been globally portrayed in New Zealand has flowed through to the consumption of New Zealand wine, and particularly our Sauvignon Blanc.” That meant the 2019 vintage sold sooner than expected “and 2020 has left the country, so everyone was desperate for 2021 volume”.

Instead, Marlborough received a “massive hit” from a late spring frost and inclement flowering period, which saw Forrest Estate’s crops down 30% on an average year.

“And from everything I hear on the grapevine, 30% down on average sounds standard, and worse than that is not uncommon”. The silver lining is “exceptional” wines, she says, celebrating perfect conditions from veraison through to full ripening, while low crops ensured the right flavours, sugar and acid levels. The new tilt to the supply demand scale offers opportunity for premiumisation, says Beth. “And 2021 has the quality of wine to back that… For us there will be a focus on ‘great’ this year.”

Beth says relationships will be key to weathering the year ahead. “We have got 33 years of grape growing experience and we were lucky enough to look at November and know the frost had hit us, then know when flowering went through, that things were light.” They flagged that to clients, wanting “transparency and honesty”, she says.

Partners were told they would have to manage the last of their 2020 stocks, because Forrest would not be rushing 2021 into the bottle and onto the water. Now they are having weekly conversations to inform people of the volume they will get. “It’s a new way of dealing with each other. It’s not an infinite stock system anymore.”

It’s not just Sauvignon that’s down, with all varieties reportedly hit by the combination of frost and poor flowering. Nautilus general manager Clive Jones says the company’s Pinot Noir crops were on average 50% to 60% of what the company would normally target. “However, Pinot Noir is a variety where there is a good correlation between yield and quality, so while the economics of growing at such

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low yields aren’t great, at least we have made some fantastic wines,” he says.

Low berry counts and smaller berries led the company to adjust its whole bunch component this year to reflect the higher stem to fruit ratio, and to be very careful with extraction. “The wines have gone into barrel looking very well balanced and with tannins already quite resolved and approachable – they are looking delicious and are already hard to resist.”

With Pinot Noir, there is stock on hand to buffer the effects of the smaller vintage, but “unfortunately we don’t have that luxury with Sauvignon”, says Clive. “We are quickly running out of our 2020 Sauvignons and will barely have enough 2021 to get us through to the release of the 2022 vintage.” The cost of goods has gone up significantly, “and supply is tight when we know demand will be high”, says Clive. “We will be allocating to market and anticipate having some difficult conversations with importers when they ask for more and we can’t supply.”

Nautilus 2021 harvest. Photo Richard Briggs

of lower tiered wines. That is in addition to the price increases already implemented by wineries over the past year and moving forward, he says. “From our perspective, we are still very positive about the year ahead.”

Wine Marlborough general manager Marcus Pickens says the low crops will be a financial blow to members, and to the wider Marlborough community. “We are really conscious that this could be an incredibly difficult year within the industry and beyond it, because it’s going to take a lot of cash out of the community.” There is an increasing understanding of the importance of wine to the Marlborough economy, he says, “and it’s never more obvious than when we have a tough year”.

But the long-term outlook for Marlborough is good, with an excellent global reputation that’s only grown in the past 18 months. The recently released Marlborough Wine Industry Growth Forecast 2020 (see page 9) is evidence that “The industry is very optimistic for the future.”

Vintage at Churton

Wairau River harvest. Photo Mike Heydon

It’s a tricky business to manage market expectations with reduced cellar stock, while considering past relationships and future opportunities, says Lindsay, knee deep in a sales “matrix” that factors in short-term realities and long-term ambitions. “It’s a question for all companies to work out,” he says, balancing margins, relationships, brand building, and the need to keep markets alive. “It’s quite a complicated methodology on who you restrict, or where you change the price… and there’s not one solution to fit them all.”

Lindsay sees the limited supply as a “speed bump” that the whole industry has to consider. “You have to slow down for a minute and establish, ‘what roads do we take from here?’ For us it’s always looking for a longer term solution, not short-term.”

He expects the bulk market to be under “huge pressure” and there are likely to be fewer brands on the shelves around the world. Meanwhile, the average wine price of Marlborough wine will average up, thanks to lower supplies

Not all subregions fared the same flowering fate, and at Churton in the Waihopai Valley, Sauvignon Blanc yields were “spot on budget”, says owner Sam Weaver. That’s partly down to location – “a couple of neighbours said they had reasonably good yields” - and partly because of Churton’s low cropping levels every year, says Sam. “We are pretty happy.” However, “abysmally early” Pinot Noir flowering - which began on November 20 instead of the second week of December, as is typical – meant that variety fell into “the really bad patch of weather”, says Sam, who reports a 30% drop in expected yields. That “doesn’t seem to be too bad”, compared to others he has spoken to. He also notes that Pinot Noir will provide a challenge for winemakers this season, with “extraordinary” concentration, as well as an unusual tannin structure because of an extended flowering period. One bunch could have some grapes ripe while others were three weeks behind, “which is pretty difficult to deal with”, he says. “We have had two fantastic vintages in a row - 2019 and 2020 - with very nice structure of tannins.” But 2021 offers a different view. “There’s a lot of fruit weight, but you have to be very careful with tannins in the winery,” says Sam. “It is a really interesting vintage for Pinot.”

Winepress May 2021 / 11

GROW

A Fresh Awakening

Giesen Wines

Reframing Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc SOPHIE PREECE

MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON Blanc has fallen into the safe but “boring” category among Australian wine consumers, stifling its stellar sales figures. However, a new positioning promises “a fresh awakening”, with potential for a $100 million boost to Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc sales across the Tasman by 2022, based on an additional $1 per bottle sold.

Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc remains Australia’s most consumed wine at home, capturing 40% of those wine drinkers every month. But 10% are drinking less Marlborough Sauvignon than they were a year ago, according to research done through Project Veraison, an initiative led by New Zealand Trade and Enterprise (NZTE), in partnership with Giesen Wines and Villa Maria.

Meanwhile, 85% to 90% of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is sold on promotion by Australian retailers and 12% of consumers think it’s “boring”, says project leader Catherine Wansink, a commercial business advisor at NZTE. “It is very consistent and people know what they are getting… That’s part of its success and also part of its downfall.”

In 2019, Project Veraison took a “deep dive” into category data and spoke to retailers and consumers, including lapsed Sauvignon Blanc drinkers, to better understand the enthusiasm – or waning energy – for a category deemed dependable, but not innovative. “In an era of ever evolving choices and stimulating new flavours, Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is seen to offer nothing new,” Catherine told attendees at a recent industry webinar. In even harsher terms, one former fan interviewed said “Sav Blanc just seems a bit ordinary or yesterday”.

12 / Winepress May 2021

“Twelve percent of Australian wine drinkers say they are feeling bored or uninspired with the category.”

Project Veraison Another important finding of the work, conducted throughout 2019, was the disconnect between Marlborough the place and Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc the wine, says Catherine. They also recognised opportunity to better tell the story of diversity in the category. “It’s not all the one same white wine.” She says there’s plenty to be said about the different subregions, styles and quality tiers amid Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, “but that story wasn’t getting through to the consumer”. That represents an “amazing opportunity”, she says. “Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has all the right notes to ride this change.”

She says one of the drivers of the project was wine companies’ concerns over “deep discounting” in the retail market. Promotional cycles see one of the major producers always on promotion, down to $10 per bottle or less, “and therefore those brands became interchangeable”, says Catherine. That was backed up by consumer research, which indicated buyers had a repertoire of three or four brands they would switch between, depending on the discount. Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc’s brand equity is being “undermined by deep discounting and overfamiliar consumers, leading to a decline in overall value”, says Catherine.

However, the various challenges offer “a burning platform for change”, with opportunity to accelerate the

GROW

A premium push for Sauvignon Blanc SOPHIE PREECE Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has long been “one of the greatest bargains in the global wine world”, says one of the partners in Project Veraison. But Villa Maria’s chief global sales and marketing officer Matt Deller says the category is “finally realising the value it deserves”, with Project Veraison, Covid-19 and a smaller than expected 2021 vintage all helping correct the value and perception of the category.

Matt says observations from within the company, and reflected by Project Veraison, are that continued discounting of Sauvignon Blanc in Australia has negatively impacted consumer perceptions of the category. That “bargain pricing” was introduced during a period of oversupply in 2008 and 2009, and Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has punched well above its weight ever since. “That is a. unsustainable and b. doesn’t accurately reflect the quality of the wine,” he says, predicting that real success will come in the next 10 years, as the region reaches its vineyard capacity. “I can’t see how we could have a supply excess of Sauvignon Blanc again from Marlborough.”

Australia is one of Villa Maria’s top five markets, representing around 7% of its total export volume, of which 90% is Sauvignon Blanc and 85% is Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc. Matt says in the lead-up to Project Veraison, the Sauvignon Blanc category in Australia was in decline, particularly within the big supermarket duopoly of Woolworths and Coles. But Covid-19 lockdowns resulted in a leap in retail sales, which bolstered demand. Now the smaller than expected 2021 harvest, with low yields of high quality fruit, will see a reduction in supply of Private Bin Wines, as Villa Maria prioritises its higher tiers. “Our Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc is disproportionately impacted by the harvest,” says Matt, noting the alignment of that phenomenon with a “global premiumisation for Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc”.

Villa Maria will also tap into the growth drivers recommended by Project Veraison, which all “circle back to premiumisation”, he says. That includes an expansion of their range of single vineyard Sauvignon Blancs, including the new label from Sea Spray Vineyard in the Awatere Valley, at the edge of the Pacific Ocean.

Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has been perceived as a commodity and a “monochromatic” style, “which is far from the truth”, Matt says. “There’s actually the opportunity to produce quite a range of different styles of Sauvignon Blancs.” That diversity includes subregional and single vineyard appellations, which the company is

“It’s exciting to be able to tell that terroir story.”

Matt Deller embracing as a “really powerful story”. Matt talks of “vast differences” between the Awatere and Wairau Valleys and, within that, between coastal and upper valley Awatere, or between the Southern Valleys and the river gravels of the Wairau Plains. “It’s exciting to be able to tell that terroir story.”

The company is also hitting the right notes when it comes to Project Veraison’s “mindful consumption” growth driver, with an “amazing trade buzz” around the new EarthGarden organic range, launched in April. That’s not only good news in Australia, with Matt citing new research from the United States that reveals New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc as the single biggest category there for Millennials. “The assumption is that is driven by our sustainability story”. EarthGarden is rapidly becoming a significant sub-brand that plays to Villa Maria’s strengths, with 22 years of organic farming and 30% of its companyowned vineyards already certified, says Matt. Some of the learnings have been hard won – “we lost entire harvests in some years” – but mean they now have an organic programme that offers reliable and sizeable volumes of organic fruit, which is just what the market thirsts for.

Winepress May 2021 / 13

CELEBRATE

“performance trajectory” of the category, she says. Project Veraison, working with strategy and marketing specialists in Australia, has developed a six-point growth vision (see sidebox), to update and invigorate the perception of the category, “inspiring Australian consumers to discover the innovative, exciting tastes of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc – and an experience that’s only from Marlborough”.

The project revealed the need for better communication of “new news” around Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, to “reinvigorate and engage” consumers. That information needs to embed “dimensionality” but also needs to be easily understood and identified, it says. The project discusses potential innovation routes, including leveraging sustainability values, and developing and communicating innovations in processes, production and experience. It also recommends an offering of tiers, with “clear reasons to trade up”. As an example, the project quotes one respondent as comparing Villa Maria to Johnnie Walker’s black and red labels. “Here you have the white and the gold label. The gold is special not every day.”

Villa Maria’s chief global sales and marketing officer Matt Deller (see page 13) says having “a very clear quality ladder” from Private Bin to Reserve wines means customers can “trade up” and see the benefit of paying a little extra each time.

The “dependability” of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc drove a boost in sales over the Covid-19 lockdowns last year,

Six growth drivers for Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc in Australia: Uniquely Marlborough - A Fresh Awakening Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is a unique tasting wine from a pristine region. Encourage consumers to reconnect with the category by exposing them to the distinctive wine style and unique taste experiences that can only come from Marlborough.

Curious Discovery There’s an opportunity to better educate consumers about the diverse and varied styles available to position it as an exciting option that consistently delivers great taste and experience.

Mindful Consumption Mindful consumption is growing in importance, but consumers don’t currently associate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc with being the mindful choice.

Daniel Budman

14 / Winepress May 2021

as more people chose to drink the category at home. “People were going to what they know and trust and what is good value,” says Catherine. “But even though sales were still strong, the concern was more around the brand equity and deep discounting.”

She says the timing of the research - conducted before Covid-19 saw the launch of NZTE’s Made with Care food and beverage campaign - meant Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc producers were ready to meet the world’s curiosity.

Project Veraison has been absorbed into Made with Care, helping grow the connection between the category and its “uniquely Marlborough” provenance, says Catherine.

The Made with Care campaign has now allowed for the Project Harvest (see page 15) video campaign to be released in Australia this month, showcasing the provenance, innovations and sustainability stories of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, as well as its sociability, emphasised as a wine that pairs well with food and deserves a strong position on wine lists.

The timing was also fortuitous given the supply challenges carried on the smaller than expected 2021 harvest, says Catherine, who believes Project Veraison’s growth strategy will help boost excitement around Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc while turning off the discount tap. “It’s exciting to see the Veraison strategy come to life in the upcoming digital campaign. The repositioning couldn’t have come at a better time.”

Food Pairing We need to clearly demonstrate the value of the category as a preferred partner for popular modern Australian foods by building the association through on premise and consumer campaigns.

Social Sharing The perception of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc as an everyday wine means consumers are choosing alternatives that offer more excitement and interest.

Building the story of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, with reference to its unique provenance and distinctive character, will help to reposition it as a remarkable drink made for social sharing.

Inspiring to Buy Loyal consumers know they want to buy Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc when they shop, but struggle to navigate the category, defaulting to price to make decisions.

CELEBRATE

Project Harvest links wine with place

Photo by Jim Tannock Duncan Shouler

SOPHIE PREECE “It’s literally Marlborough in a bottle,” says Duncan Shouler of the Giesen Estate Sauvignon Blanc, connecting a wine he loves to the soil and climate that creates it.

Giesen’s chief winemaker is one of the voices in a digital campaign rolled out in Australia this month, talking of an extraordinary product from a unique place.

The winemakers and viticulturists filmed in Project Harvest – part of New Zealand Trade and Enterprise’s (NZTE) Made with Care food and beverage campaign - work to personify Marlborough and its Sauvignon, explaining the character forged from field to ferment, and from soils to stylistic choices. It is about “looking at what makes Marlborough special”, from rolling hills to riverbed soils, says Duncan. Connecting the wine to the place adds value, “and makes it a more real experience for the consumer”.

He notes that those well versed in wines and vines take the concept of terroir for granted. “But if you look at the average shopper looking for a clean, refreshing white wine at the supermarket – the sense of place might not exist for them. This is about getting across that in actual fact it is about the place. It is the region that makes these wines so recognisable; it is the soil profile and sunshine that makes these wines you love.”

Project leader Catherine Wansink, a commercial business advisor at NZTE, says one of the key findings of Project Veraison’s research (see main story) was that Australian consumers are not connecting Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc with the region, making “uniquely Marlborough” one of the strongest growth category drivers established by the project. The video campaign works to link the wine back to place, while growing understanding – and excitement – around the diversity of the wines from the region, both through stylistic and subregional influences, she says.

Duncan says Giesen makes a lot of different styles of Sauvignon Blanc and always “champions the variety”. But

when talking about the personality of place, the one that comes to mind for him is the company’s Estate Sauvignon Blanc. “It has so much history and it’s what the company is built on, and is our expression of a classic Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.” He loves the small production barrel fermented expressions of the variety, “but I get a lot of satisfaction out of seeing people drink Giesen Estate, because it’s our expression of Marlborough as a whole”.

The Project Harvest digital campaign will be live from the first week of May and will run for five weeks, to coincide with International Sauvignon Blanc Day (#sauvblancday) on May 7 2021.

WE’RE ON THE SEARCH FOR GROWERS OF SAUVIGNON BLANC, CHARDONNAY & PINOT GRIS FOR 2022 & BEYOND All enquiries welcome Contact David Clouston 021 527 550 | dave@tworivers.co.nz

Winepress May 2021 / 15

EDUCATE

Warm Welcome Cellar doors get comfortable with seating

BRENDA WEBB Seated tastings proved popular at Cloudy Bay over summer. Photo Richard Briggs

SEATED WINE tastings appear set to remain at Marlborough cellar doors. Under Covid-19 Alert Level 2, cellar doors were forced to implement the seated system, and it’s proving a popular shift.

Nanette Kirk, acting cellar door manager at Whitehaven, based at the Vines Village, says seated tastings offered an improved encounter for both customer and cellar door hosts. “We’ve pretty much kept to that model as it provides a much nicer one-to-one experience,” she says.

“It’s far more satisfying, because you can have a two-way conversation rather than it being pour, pour, pour as it was previously, especially on busy cruise ship days.” Tastings are not just about the wines, she says. “People are fascinated with our region and we now have the time to talk about that as well as the soils, the geography, the vineyards and of course the wines.”

Domestic tourists visiting Whitehaven post-lockdown are spending more, and Nanette is hopeful the opening of the Australian travel market will also result in good sales. “The average domestic spend has doubled, with Kiwis valuing quality wine,” she says. “And Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has long been a favourite with Australians.”

“The experience was far more relaxed, people didn’t have to line up and there was no pressure on staff.”

Jane Hunter

16 / Winepress May 2021

Customer experience manager at Framingham, Elgee Leung, is heading into winter buoyant after a successful summer, and is optimistic about the Australian travel bubble opening up. “After lockdown we found Kiwis were travel crazy so I imagine the Australians will also be craving travel and we (New Zealand) are their first choice,” he says.

Framingham is also continuing with seated tastings as they provide a more in-depth experience, according to Elgee.

“I think the quality of the tastings has definitely improved with the seated tastings,” he says. “It allows staff to explain our philosophy and tell our story which we simply couldn’t do in previous summers as we were so busy.”

Seated tastings were introduced at Hunter’s Wines about five years ago and Jane Hunter says they noticed a difference straight away. “The experience was far more relaxed, people didn’t have to line up and there was no pressure on staff,” she says. “It made the visits enjoyable again – people started taking their time, having a glass of wine, walking in the garden and there just wasn’t the rush, rush, rush there used to be.”

With fewer staff available this past season – Hunter’s typically taps into the backpacker market – Jane says the seated system worked really well. She also notes that domestic travellers spent more as they were driving and could take wine with them. Jane predicts the opening of the Australian tourist market will have an impact next summer.

“I don’t think it will be immediate, but New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc has such a good name in Australia, we will surely get independent travellers coming through again.”

Wither Hills enjoyed a busy summer at both the cellar door and restaurant. Manager Marcus Simmerlein says staff were able to give visitors a better experience without the huge tourist numbers of the past, especially during busy cruise ship days. “You’d get 4,000 to 5,000 people hopping off the ship at the same time – that’s a massive number of people coming through the region and it’s very hard to give them a good experience,” he says. “It certainly helped us

EDUCATE

to offer a better and faster service this season not having cruise ship visitors.” With reduced tourist numbers this season, and seated tastings at their cellar door, Wither Hills was able to give an enhanced experience, says Marcus. “We noticed we were getting a higher value tourist – Kiwis who are not able to travel overseas were certainly spending in New Zealand.”

Cloudy Bay’s cellar door was “very busy” over summer, with seated tastings proving popular. They will continue, says Nicky Hewett, customer experience manager. “I’d say it’s generally true that seated tastings work well for most cellar doors – for us it meant we could manage visitor numbers and staffing and communicate capacity clearly to customers,” she says. “It meant people had a more

consistent experience than what was possible in the much busier days of the past. If we were busy, people could buy a glass of wine and enjoy the grounds.”

While cruise ship days were a challenge for many cellar doors, they could be lucrative, says Nicky. “Potentially cruise ship visitors will feel motivated to return at a later date on longer stays so we want to provide a great Marlborough experience, but that can be difficult with such large numbers,” she says. Nicky says Cloudy Bay is well set up for Australian travellers when they come, with contact tracing, sanitising and seated tastings. She is not anticipating a huge rush of visitors initially. “I think people will be cautious – they will travel for family and business PCL AD Winepress 2016.pdf 1 15/07/16 3:21 PM reasons first.”

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Winepress May 2021 / 17

EDUCATE

Vakameasina Seasonal workers seeking knowledge SOPHIE PREECE

WALTER NUNGNUNG finished school in Vanuatu when he was 13, but he certainly hadn’t finished with his education. For the past 11 years, Walter has left his home on Ambrym Island and come to New Zealand with the Recognised Seasonal Employer (RSE) scheme, for seasonal work in vineyard.

While here, he has tapped into the learning opportunities of Vakameasina, a free education development programme Walter Nungnung for RSE workers from the Pacific Islands, funded by New Zealand Foreign Affairs and Trade (MFAT). and winter vineyard labour. As he digs into his second Walter started at Vakameasina with a “foundational winter of pruning, he is pleased to be able to send money course”, including lessons on finances, health and human back to his home, “so that I can help my family”. Earnings rights, then branched out into specifics like solar power. over the past 18 months have enabled his family to build a He has also done a leadership course, in part to help him house, “so I am very happy”, Walter says. in his job as crew supervisor with Thornhill. Walter is now Gordon Bahe, from Vanuatu’s Malakula Island, was also studying the New Zealand road code, and is eager to keep on his first RSE term when he came here for the 2019/2020 on learning. “I finished school at grade 6, so when I came summer season. For the past 18 months he has been sending here and this opportunity came, I thought, ‘this can help me money home for the build of a “big house” on the island, for my education’.” while studying the building course through Vakameasina Walter has a wife and children back on Ambrym, here in Blenheim, as well as the cooking course and now the and says the past 18 months have been “very difficult”, road code. with Covid-19 initially stranding him and his crew in The continued season for these RSE workers has not New Zealand after the 2019/2020 summer season. When only yielded houses, with Narufa Nakis, from Vanuatu’s repatriation flights became available, Walter decided to stay Tanna Island, now the owner of a Land Rover back home, on, knowing work would be difficult to come by in Vanuatu, which he plans to use for a business when Tanna’s tourism and that New Zealand contractors were short of summer sector is back in gear. Nrufa is studying the road code as

“As an industry we need to acknowledge the commitment and significant sacrifices the RSE workers have made to stay on in New Zealand since lockdown 12 months ago.”

Guy Lissaman 18 / Winepress May 2021

a step towards his licence, and also plans to do a small engines course through Vakameasina.

When the Vakameasina pilot programme was kicked off 10 years ago, Anne Barrer, who spent 26 years working as a tutor at Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology (NMIT), was one of the initial tutors, helping teach everything from basic English to healthy living, to help the RSE workers adapt to their time in New Zealand.

Those essential skills are key to the programme, says Anne, who has been Vakameasina regional coordinator in Marlborough for the past seven years. But one of the things she loves most is when students seek learnings that can change their lives at home in the islands, some of which are very remote. “The idea was a gift of knowledge, and skills they can take back with them.”

The programme, fully funded from MFAT’s aid programme, has developed over the years, thanks to

EDUCATE

Obedsali Bebe and Anne Barrer

feedback from the men and women who take part. That includes a “tiered” programme, so returning workers can move beyond the essential course and into something they are keen to explore, such as small business development, finances, building, solar power, leadership, small engines, plumbing and horticulture.

And it continues to evolve, says Anne, who’s preparing to roll out a new money management course through ANZ,

A long stay When Nolan Ilaisa left Malakula Island in Vanuatu in 2019, he expected to be away from his partner and baby son for one New Zealand summer. But 18 months on, his son is three years old and Nolan is in his second vineyard pruning season through the Recognised Seasonal Employer (RSE) scheme.

Covid border closures mean there are 5300 RSE workers still in the country, having arrived in 2019 and stayed well beyond their expectations. It’s a “tough decision” to remain away from family, but jobs are scarce in Vanuatu right now, and Nolan says he’s happy to make the sacrifice in order to send money home, while also saving for tools and machines he can use in his furniture making business back on the island.

with the bank’s original programme fleshed out to fit the 20 hours of learning required by Vakameasina. She’s also keen to run a women’s leadership group, once she has the numbers to get the course off the ground. “I absolutely love the job,” says Anne, who has established a group of 10 tutors in Marlborough.

She says some groups finish one course and immediately think about the next, such as a crew from Fiji that has gone to Hawke’s Bay for work, “but have flagged that they want to do a building course when they get back”.

Last year was a difficult time for many of the RSE workers, and the tutor group “recognised that the guys were a bit despondent”, says Anne. So, they worked to lighten the load, introducing more relaxing activities, games and cooking. Their role is as teacher not pastoral care, she notes, but they’re “caring educators” focussed on “empowering” their students. facebook.com/vakameasina/

RSE scheme, which was established in April 2007 to allow horticulture and viticulture industries to recruit workers from overseas for up to seven months of seasonal work.

Border closures meant that last winter there were no new RSE workers for pruning, but summer crews unable to return home were trained for the winter roles. A year on, a tranche of 2000 RSE workers have been able to come into New Zealand via managed isolation facilities, to be shared between horticulture and viticulture industries, but labour is still tight for pruning in Marlborough.

Workers like Nolan, who decided to stay on in the country instead of taking repatriation flights home, are owed a “big thank-you”, says Guy Lissaman, chair of the Marlborough Labour Governance Group (see page 20).

“As an industry we need to acknowledge the commitment

“That’s my aim so I didn’t want to miss anything, and try my best to attend every class.”

Nolan Ilaisa I meet Nolan at the Vakameasina (see main story) road code course in Blenheim, being run out of a classroom at Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology (NMIT). He’s come from a 10 hour shift of pruning vines - the second day of the season - but is determined to make it to every session. “I am thinking of getting my licence. That’s my aim so I didn’t want to miss anything, and try my best to attend every class.”

He’s also done the Vakameasina Leadership course, which helps him in his role as house leader for Thornhill Contracting, and will also come in use back in Vanuatu, he says. This is Nolan’s first stint in New Zealand with the

and significant sacrifices the RSE workers have made to stay on in New Zealand since lockdown. They have opted to remain in New Zealand to work and send remittances back home to support family in the Pacific Islands, where there is currently no tourism or work opportunities.”

Guy says the Marlborough wine industry would struggle to survive without the on-going supply of RSE workers. “We hope to see a two-way bubble opening to the Pacific countries later in 2021, so the workers can get home and replacement workers come back to New Zealand.”

Winepress May 2021 / 19

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Pruning Update SOPHIE PREECE

MARLBOROUGH’S WINE industry is short an estimated 1,100 workers for winter pruning, says the chair of the region’s Labour Governance Group. Grape grower Guy Lissaman says there are currently around 7300 Recognised Seasonal Employer (RSE) scheme workers in New Zealand, including 2000 who have come in on a border exception this year, with a “limited number” of those in Marlborough.

“We are expecting approximately two thirds of the normal RSE numbers for winter 2021 pruning, arriving May and June,” he says.

However, he’s hopeful that picture will improve with recruitment drives and “greater sharing of seasonal workers from other regions”. The Ministry for Primary Industries will launch the Opportunity Grows Here winter pruning campaign this month, in a social media initiative to attract people to the industry. Meanwhile the Primary ITO, in collaboration with Wine Marlborough, is rolling out a free pruning tasting course to support industry members who are new to pruning, by developing foundational skills and helping connect them with employers. Wine Marlborough will also hold a Pruning Field Day at Matador Estate on May 13, with the support of the Bragato Research Institute and industry experts.

Other strategies being implemented by companies include extending the pruning season, by starting early and finishing later, increasing the use of mechanical Klima

Tiki Wines

stripping, and using different pruning systems that require less labour, says Guy. “The key message is to talk to your vineyard labour contractor. And take the opportunity to employ more Kiwis and be flexible with what roles they do, to get the job done.”

Nicola Crennan, New Zealand Winegrowers’ acting general manager advocacy, says she has been impressed by the industry’s commitment to “making sure we are all pulling together to make sure no one is left behind, and vines are pruned to give industry best shot at a bumper 2022 vintage”.

Wine Marlborough advocacy manager Nicci Armour says it’s important that the industry continues to pool together and support each, echoing her message in the April 2021 edition of Winepress (page 4; edition 316). She says it is important that the industry and community acknowledge the heavy lifting, “literal and metaphorical” that has been done by RSE workers over 2020 and into this year, with many choosing to remain in New Zealand after the Covid-19 border closures. Nicci says employers can advertise jobs at worktheseasons.co.nz, where people looking for work can also access job information.

For more information on the pruning field day contact Wine Marlborough advocacy manager Nicci Armour at advocacy@winemarlborough.nz

Pruning and Yield Calculator The Bragato Research Institute has revised its pruning factsheets, offering information on pruning options during a potential labour shortage. The institute has also worked with Fruition Horticulture to develop an Excel tool that allows growers to compare the effect of different pruning types or yield targets on vineyard profitability. The Pruning and Yield Calculator is designed to allow growers to evaluate a range of alternative scenarios for a block and quickly compare the profitability of options to inform decision making. The tool, which was developed on request from growers, has been designed based on input and feedback from industry representatives. For factsheets and the pruning and yield calculator, go to nzwine.com/pruning-mechanical-thinning

20 / Winepress May 2021

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If you would like to work with a fast-growing New Zealand-owned local wine company, with award-winning wine brands, please get in touch with te Pā General Manager Kelvin Deaker at kelvin@tepawines.com or Chief Winemaker Sam Bennett on sam@tepawines.com or call the office at 035705192 to discuss this further.

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Good Stuff Sounds seaweed nurturing Marlborough vine KAT DUGGAN

AFTER SPENDING a lifetime on the sea, Mick Norton says he struck ‘brown gold’ when he realised the impact seaweed could have on Marlborough grapevines.

With Māori tipuna dating back to the first canoes, Tākitimu and Tokomaru, Mick’s first European ancestor arrived at Te Awaiti in Tory Channel, Kura te Au, in 1831.

They were the first of many generations of Norton whalers to hunt the seas of both Tory Channel and Cook Strait for whales. Mick’s father, Tom Norton, became a harpooner at the age of 12, while two of Mick’s elder brothers were among the last of the whalers in New Zealand waters.

But, despite growing up with a front row seat to the industry, whaling wasn’t for Mick. Since leaving school in 1953, aged 14, he has worn many hats, the first of which saw

Mick’s first three mussel lines were established in 1987, and it wasn’t long before he and his wife Mary were spending their days cutting away the seaweed that was persistently “attacking” the farm. “Firstly, we tried to eliminate it by cutting it off, and then something sparked in my mind about seaweed and what we might be able to do with it,” Mick says.

The couple began supplying a Dunedin fish fertiliser company with the seaweed. “They were making a fertiliser with fish and seaweed and we thought we’d hit the jackpot, but the company went bankrupt, and the market disappeared,” he recalls.

But Mick wasn’t about to give up. “We parked the seaweed in the short term for the lack of a market, but around 1990 it appeared in my vision again and I developed

“Something sparked in my mind about seaweed and what we might be able to do with it.”

Mick Norton him working Tory Channel and Cook Strait as a fisherman, then paua diver. For many years he has come and gone from the water.

Doing what it took to feed his family of eight children, he also spent time as an insurance broker and a builder, then establishing Aquanort Pools in 1964. He even had a stint as the owner-operator of a fish and chip shop, Captain Delicious in Blenheim. But “the Tory” kept calling, and in 1977, Mick applied for a marine farm licence at Hitaua Bay, to farm paua, paua pearls, kina, and mussels, which are still part of the farm today. However, it was an unexpected species that led Mick to strike his “brown gold”.

22 / Winepress May 2021

some prototype seaweed products.” While he experimented with kelp powder, kelp pasta, kelp chips and even kelp fruit leather, Mick developed an extract containing fucoidan, a component of some brown kelps which is now known for its benefits to the immune system.

He discovered a way to extract kelp juice using a cold, wet process, preserving the goodness of the seaweed and making it an ideal base for many products. It was about this time that Marlborough’s grape industry began to boom, a happy coincidence that led to the birth of yet another idea.

“I started making a foliar spray and around 2006 it turned into a commercial operation, which was certified organic by

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BioGro, and I continued to develop my methods,” Mick says.

In 2013, Tory Channel Kelp Products changed its organic certification to AsureQuality, where the certification remains today. The foliar spray, Natural Kelp Tea, is made using a cold ferment process and contains Macrocystis pyrifera, or giant kelp, and very little else. “It’s a liquid plant food and soil conditioner, and because it’s made using a cold process, we lose very little of the nutrients, vitamins and amino acids that are found in seaweed, so it’s highly nutritious for plants and soils,” Mick says.

Now, his deliveries reach vineyards, dairy farms, gardens and orchards across Marlborough and the top of the South, and have even gone as far afield as Central Otago.

Cloudy Bay vineyard operations manager John Flanagan says he and his team are firm believers in the use of seaweed applications to promote plant health and to build resilience against weather extremes in the vineyard.

Marlborough Environment Award Winner Achieving carbonzero has been good for Lawson’s Dry Hills sustainability footprint, its efficiency, and its relationship with consumers, says marketing manager Belinda Jackson. And the team is enjoying the opportunity to share their story with other wine companies keen to reduce emissions and increase their sustainability.

“Its bonus is being able to pass it on,” she says, in the wake of Lawson’s Dry Hills winning the Wine Industry category at the 2021 Cawthron Marlborough Environment Awards. “To get all of us as dedicated to reducing our environmental footprint as possible.”

In 2011 Lawson’s became one of the first wineries to achieve ISO 14001 accreditation, which encompasses sustainability measures across the whole business. Power and water use has been substantially reduced, bottles and packaging have a high recycled content, and they are constantly finding ways to reduce plastic use. “We have seen real benefits across our business,” says general manager Sion Barnsley. “It has made us think smarter.”

This year the company became a Tōitu certified carbonzero organisation by achieving ISO 14064, making it the only wine company in the country to achieve both

“We’ve been using Tory Channel Natural Kelp for the past seven years and are pleased with how our vines have performed over this time. It’s become an integral part of our vine nutrition programme,” he says. “We’re also very conscious about our environmental impact, and we’re delighted that we can source a local Marlborough product, and we know exactly what has gone into its production.”

In recent years, Mick added a tanker to operations at Tory Channel Kelp Products, something which enabled him to begin delivering Natural Kelp Tea on demand in any quantity up to 2,000 litres at a time. This move not only added convenience for clients, but also reduced the need for plastic waste, says John. “Mick is great to deal with, and his bulk deliveries directly to our vineyards eliminates the need for lots of plastic containers.”

Kat Duggan is Mick Norton’s granddaughter

accreditations. “It is really neat to be able to show other producers that this is totally doable and very rewarding,” says Belinda. There is “a real sense of pride” in marketing their wines to the world, knowing that the certifications – and now this award – endorse the standards they have achieved, she adds. “And we know that more and more consumers are looking for products that actually do the right thing by the environment… It’s a pleasure to be able to make great wines with no compromise that tick all the environmental boxes.”

Wine Marlborough sponsors the Wine Category of the Environment Awards, and general manager Marcus Pickens says it is inspiring to see an established business like Lawson’s, “with deep roots in Marlborough”, continue to innovate and search for a range of solutions. The positive moves being made by wine companies in the sustainability space are vitally important, he says. “The Marlborough and New Zealand wine industry are not only looking to be leaders regionally, but nationally and internationally also.”

Read more about the Lawson’s Dry Hills sustainability journey in the June edition of Winepress

Winepress May 2021 / 23

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Biosecurity Watch The Biosecurity Vineyard Register JIM HERDMAN

The data from the 2020 Biosecurity Vineyard Register is now available online in the Vineyard Report 2020 to 2023.

The Biosecurity Vineyard Register is an essential tool for the wine industry in the event of a biosecurity response.

Entering vineyard details in the register and updating them each year ensures that if a new pest or disease arrives, New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) is able to contact all growers in the at-risk area as soon as possible. If a biosecurity response occurs, growers will also be included in important communications and kept informed of any progress.

All vineyards owned by NZW members must have an annual Biosecurity Vineyard Register entry completed. This includes all producing vineyards owned by growers and wineries, and newly planted vineyards that will produce a crop within the next three years.

Members also need to enter any non-productive vineyards that are still in the ground and likely to be used for commercial wine production in the future. All vineyards (grower or winery-owned) contributing grapes to wines participating in NZW events and activities are also required to complete the register annually. Individual members’ data is treated confidentially, and only anonymised collated information is released annually in the form of the Vineyard Report.

The Vineyard Report is used to collate key industry data and statistics. The NZW marketing team uses it when communicating with the media, and it is also used to inform other resources such as the New Zealand Wine textbook, varietal guides, and regional guides. Over time, the data collected in the reports also provides a clear record of the industry’s growth and allows trends and changes in varieties and regions to be identified.

The Biosecurity Vineyard Register is due to be completed by June 30 each year. While not a Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ) submission, it must be

completed before a vineyard can be SWNZ-accredited. The register asks vineyard owners to provide details of vineyard name, size, location, planted varieties, and estimated future plantings. Ideally, vineyards should be registered as soon as the vines have been planted, even if they are nonproducing, as they can still be affected by pest and disease incursions.

The 2021 Biosecurity Vineyard Register is currently open for completion, due by June 30 2021. If you haven’t yet registered your vineyards this year, go to portal.nzwine. com/MyProfile/VineyardRegister/tabid/203/language/ en-US/Default.aspx and follow the links. If you need assistance, send an email to vineyardregister@nzwine.com, or contact Jim Herdman, biosecurity advisor on 027 644 8010.

Key statistics • The total producing area is 40,323 hectares; a 2% increase on the preceding year • The total producing area by variety is:

White wine – 32,493ha

Red wine – 7,830ha • There are 2,032 vineyards in New Zealand, with an average area of 20ha •Marlborough remains the largest producing region at 28,360ha - 70% of the total producing area •Sauvignon Blanc remains the most significant variety at 25,326ha - 63% of the total producing area •Pinot Noir remains the most significant red variety at 5,779ha - 14% of the total producing area •Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc makes up 22,777ha, or 56% of the total production area. https://www.nzwine.com/en/media/statistics/ vineyard-reports/

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Industry News BRI’s Interim CEO Jeffrey Clarke has been appointed as interim chief executive for the Bragato Research Institute (BRI). The general manager advocacy and general counsel at New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) took up the role in early April, allowing for departing chief executive MJ Loza to undertake a comprehensive handover. Jeffrey (pictured) has been involved with BRI since its inception and his work as general legal counsel included the original contracts to establish BRI, as well as ongoing advocacy and legal support for the research organisation. “Jeffrey has played an important role in establishing BRI and is very familiar with our operations and the service we provide to NZW members,” says MJ. “I am pleased he’s available to take a leadership role at BRI and that someone with his expertise and experience is here for the BRI team over this time.” Jeffrey says he is enjoying learning more of BRI’s research capabilities and looks forward to assisting the organisation during his tenure. MJ is leaving BRI after three years at the helm to work for Aotearoa Fine Wines, and will move to Hawke’s Bay. BRI expects to make an announcement regarding a permanent appointment in the CEO’s role later this year.

Young Viticulturist of the Year Grape Days Entries are open to the 2021 Corteva Young Viticulturist Farming for the of the Year competition, kicking off with the Marlborough future is the focus Education Day on May 19, which is relevant to everyone of the upcoming working in viticulture, says national coordinator Nicky Grape Days events Grandorge. The regional competition is on July 1, and the around the country, national final in Marlborough on August 25 to 26. “We are with sessions on “reducing inputs and environmental excited to be ramping up again for 2021,” says Nicky. Now in impact while enabling sustainable returns”. Grape Days, in its 16th year, the competition tests young vits on everything Marlborough on June 16, will kick off with a welcome and involved with running a vineyard and being a successful vintage update from New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) viticultural leader, from soil nutrition and trellising to chief executive Philip Gregan, followed by an update on budgeting, biosecurity planning and public speaking. The the Bragato Research Institute from interim chief executive national winner will take home a Hyundai Kona for a year, Jeffrey Clarke. Research updates include a session on an Ecotrellis travel grant, an educational visit to Australia drainage, leaching, irrigation use and water footprint by with Corteva, Bahco golden secateurs and other cash Brent Clothier of Plant & Food Research, and a presentation prizes. The winner will also go on to represent the wine on soil chemistry and terroir by Ali Lowrey of the University industry in the Young Horticulturist of the Year competition of Auckland. Mark Kraznow, of Thoughtful Viticulture, in November. Rhys Hall (pictured) from Indevin in will discuss reducing herbicide inputs, and Pernod Ricard Marlborough was the 2020 winner, announced at the Young viticulturist Matthew Murray will give a grower perspective Vit 15 Years celebration in October last year. on subsurface irrigation. The NZW environmental team nzwine.com/en/initiatives/young-vit will take to the stage in the afternoon, to talk Sustainability Guardians, storage of treated vineyard posts, and the implementation of a new Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand questionnaire. The afternoon sessions also include biosecurity and risk management, as well as climate change mitigation and trunk disease identification and risk management. nzwine.com/en/events/grape-days WineWorks at the BRI winery WineWorks has signed up to sponsor the Bragato Research Institute’s Research Winery bottling room and bottling equipment for five years. Like much of the equipment at the Research Winery, the bottling line is specially made for the research environment, allowing trials to cover the entire production cycle from receiving grapes through to a finished bottled product. WineWorks general manager Damien Gillman says BRI is an “outstanding resource” for the wine industry.

“We hope that supporting their work will contribute to key research outcomes which benefit the wider industry.” BRI chief executive MJ Loza says the institute is delighted to have the company on board. “Sponsorship contributions are an important revenue stream for the winery, supporting us to continue our research work for industry. It’s also a valued relationship with a world-class operator, where we know we’ll be able to add value to each other’s operations.”

26 / Winepress May 2021

Bottling company carbonzero WineWorks has become New Zealand’s first Toitū carbonzero certified bottling company. The company already has sustainability measures in place to reduce and recycle paper, glass and polystyrene, with all wood and glass reprocessed in New Zealand rather than travelling offshore. Increasing efficiencies are also gained through choices in lighting, energy sources and using technology to reduce energy loads and demands. But WineWorks recognised there was more to do and has committed to combatting its emissions, says chief executive Peter Crowe.

The first step was to thoroughly measure and audit emissions. Secondly, it aims to reduce its emissions, most of which come from electricity use. That involves upgrading ageing machinery with more efficient technology and monitoring for electrical competencies to identify areas for further energy savings, amongst other measures. The last part is buying carbon credits to offset baseline emissions, through projects regenerating native forests in Marlborough and the Far North.

The company’s initial target is a 30% reduction in carbon emissions by 2023. Ultimately, a reduction in overall emissions lessens the company’s reliance on purchasing credits, and contributes to a better service to its customers and a healthier environment for all, says Peter. The move is part of a plan to “dig in” and help New Zealand Winegrowers on its quest to become carbon neutral by 2050, he adds. “Climate change is everyone’s problem, and we are doing our bit using science-based targets to limit our impact on biodiversity, people and the environment” Becoming carbonzero will also help WineWorks’ clients to achieve their sustainability goals, Peter says. “From now on, if you choose WineWorks to bottle or warehouse your product, you’re also having a direct and positive impact on the environment.” WineWorks operates nine bottling lines between plants in Marlborough, Hawke’s Bay and Auckland, with a total bottling capacity of 120,000 cases per day.

Marlborough Hiring Day

Young Winemaker 2021

Marlborough Hiring Day on May 13 is expected to be the biggest recruitment event the region has seen. Employers with vacancies and job seekers looking for work will attend the event where recruitment takes place ‘speed date’ style.

The event is organised by the Ministry of Social Development (MSD) and draws on the successful format established by Harvest Hiring at Motueka in February and Nelson Hiring Day in April. “We are providing the opportunity for employers to meet directly with job seekers,” says MSD’s regional commissioner for Marlborough, Nelson and the West Coast, Craig Churchill. “We’ve found that by creating this forum, job placement can happen quite quickly. Discussing work options and exploring opportunities is so much easier when you’re face to face.”

Marlborough Hiring Day will run from 10am to 1pm on 13 May at the Marlborough Lines Stadium 2000 in Blenheim.

Dates are set for the 2021 Tonnellerie de Mercurey Young Winemaker of the Year competition, with Marlborough’s competition on September 8. Three regional competitions will culminate in the national final on October 14 in Central Otago. Last year’s Marlborough winner was Peter Russell from Matua (pictured) and Ben Tombs from Peregrine in Central Otago won the national competition. nzwine.com/en/ initiatives/young-winemaker/

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Lease or contract supply 5 - 20 hectares. Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris or mix thereof. All varieties considered. Wairau Valley perferable, including Northbank, Waihopai and Southern Valleys. All Marlborough subregions considered. For a confidential discussion please contact Framingham Viticulturist James Bowskill

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Winepress May 2021 / 27

Wine Happenings

A monthly list of events within the New Zealand wine industry.

To have your event included in the March Wine Happenings, please email details to sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz by May 20. Due to uncertainty around Covid-19, there may be changes to some of these events. For more information, please use the contact supplied or email sarah@winemarlborough.nz

MAY 2 Marlborough Biodiversity Forum, 9am to 3pm, Renwick Sports Centre 7 International Sauvignon Blanc Day - #SauvBlancDay 7 Bayleys Friday Night Feast 8 Saint Clair Vineyard Half Marathon – vineyardhalf.com 13 Wine Marlborough Pruning Field Day. Matador Estate, 1 - 4pm 13 Marborough Hiring Day, Marlborough Lines Stadium 2000 (see page 26) 19 The Corteva Marlborough Young Viticulturist Education Day (see page 26) 27 International Chardonnay Day #internationalchardonnayday JUNE 16 Grape Days Marlborough, ASB Theatre (see page 26) JULY 1 The Corteva Marlborough Young Viticulturist of the Year Competition 9-11 Marlborough Book Festival - marlboroughbookfest.co.nz AUGUST 25-26 National finals of the Corteva Marlborough Young Viticulturist of the Year Competition SEPTEMBER 3-5 Yealands Classic Fighters 2021 - classicfighters.co.nz 8 2021 Tonnellerie de Mercurey Young Winemaker of the Year Marlborough competition (see page 27) 20–26 Organic Wine Week - organicwinenz.com

Sauvignon Blanc Day - May 7

28 / Winepress May 2021

Bayleys Friday Night Feast - May 7

Young Vit Competition - July 1

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Made using a cold process to ensure maximum nutritional value, Tory Channel Kelp Ltd Natural Kelp Tea can be ordered in bulk quantities delivered directly to your preferred site. www.naturalkelp.co.nz | 027 445 3708 | mick-norton@xtra.co.nz

The wealth of the sea to soil and plant.

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