Winepress - November 2014 by Winepress Magazine

Issue No. 242 / November 2014

El Nino

Viticulture Report

Alternative Heaven

Whitehaven’s New Look

Photo: Jim Tannock

@marlboroughwine

The Official Magazine of

www.wine-marlborough.co.nz

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In this issue... Regulars

Features

Editorial

Tasman Crop Met Report

Generation Y-ine -

18 Kelsey Daniels 29

Top Tweets

Export News

Wine Happenings

News From Home and Away

Editor: Tessa Nicholson 16 Bank Street Blenheim 7201 T: 021 709 571 E: tessa.nicholson@me.com

What Does El Nino Mean? This year has been deemed an El Nino year, as opposed to a La Nina. But what does that mean for the region over the upcoming summer months? Stu Powell explains what we can expect.

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A Great Year For Growers The MPI and NZW Viticulture Monitoring Report is now out and shows that 2014 was the best year since 2008, for growers in Marlborough. Much of that can be put down to the increase in yields.

16 A To Z Diversity

While many growers and wine companies are looking to diversify into alternative varieties, Hans Herzog has taken diversification to the absolute extreme, with 29 varieties planted on his 11.5ha vineyard.

p24

24 Wine Tasting In The Andes

Printed by: Blenheim Print Ltd. T: 03 578 1322 WINEPRESS is printed with vegetable oil based inks on elemental chlorine free paper which is sourced 100% from well managed forrests and manufactured under ISO 14001 Environmental Management Systems.

Grape grower Bev Marshall recently spent a month visiting Chile and Argentina. She shares with us her experiences of wine tasting in the shadow of the Andes.

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WINEPRESS November 2014

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WINEPRESS November 2014

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Ph: 03 577 9299 Web: www.wine-marlborough.co.nz marcus@wine-marlborough.co.nz For Advertising contact: Emily Hope Ph: 03 577 9299 emily@wine-marlborough.co.nz Produced by: Wine Marlborough Free to all levy paying members Associate Members: $77 +GST Wine Marlborough Board Clive Jones: cjones@nautilusestate.com Ruud Maasdam: ruud@staetelandt.co.nz Guy Lissaman: glissaman@xtra.co.nz Laurin Gane: laurin.gane@xtra.co.nz Simon Clark: simon@clarkestate.com Simon Bishell: simonbishell@outlook.com Stuart Dudley: stuartd@villamaria.co.nz

From the Editor Spring is almost over and summer is on the way. Longer days, warmer temperatures (hopefully) and work aplenty in the vineyards. Bud rubbing, spraying, preventing disease, shoot thinning, keeping weeds under control are just a few of the tasks keeping growers and contractors busy. For many wineries, it is release time, with the latest wines making their way onto the shelves in preparation for the upcoming festive season. One of the big launches of the year will have occurred just before you get to read this magazine – the WineWorks Sauvignon Blanc Yacht Race. What began as a rather small event more than a decade ago, has morphed into a major promotional opportunity for Marlborough wineries to raise awareness of the recent Sauvignon Blanc vintage, within the capital. A pop up Marlborough event allows city dwellers to taste not only the wines of the region, but also a vast array of local delights. It is great to see the support for this promotion, not only from the wineries, but also the food producers and of course the yachties of the Waikawa Boating Club. For cellar door staff, things are beginning to heat up. With summer comes an increase in the numbers visiting the region resulting in an increase in cellar door visitors. Wine Marlborough’s recent Cellar Door Speed Dating event, gave staff members a chance to learn more about their neighbours, while also promoting what it takes to provide a memorable experience for visitors. Given many people purchase a wine based on a favourable memory, the role of cellar door staff cannot be under-estimated. They are often the very first link a consumer has with a particular brand. What memory they take away from their cellar door experience, will affect their buying choices for years to come. Talking of cellar door experiences, this month we head to Chile and Argentina, with Bev Marshall, a local grape grower. She and partner Scott Wilson spent a month visiting wineries and vineyards in both countries, and she shares her experiences with us in Wine Tasting in the Andes (page 24). Bev explains, it wasn’t quite what she was used to, but many of the tastings were very personalised and informative. Could some of these ideas be incorporated into Marlborough’s cellar doors? Something to think about.

Samantha Wickham: samantha@ormondnurseries.co.nz Jason Yank: jason@astrolabewines.com Rhyan Wardman: rhyan.wardman@indevin.com

TESSA NICHOLSON tessa.nicholson@me.com

Jack Glover: jack.glover@accolade-wines.co.nz

WINEPRESS November 2014

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WINEPRESS November 2014

Table 1: Blenheim Weather Data – October 2014 October October 2014 2014 compared to LTA

October LTA

Period of LTA

October 2013

GDD’s for month -Max/Min¹ GDD’s for month – Mean²

92.2 112

91% 99%

101.5 101.5

(1996-2013) (1996-2013)

128.8 138.0

Growing Degree Days Total Jul – Oct 14 – Max/Min Jul - Oct 14 – Mean

175.1 235.9

94% 99%

186.5 238.4

(1996-2013) (1996-2013)

255.9 306.4

Mean Maximum (°C) Mean Minimum (°C) Mean Temp (°C)

19.0 6.9 13.0

+0.8°C -0.9°C Equal

18.2 7.8 13.0

(1986-2013) (1986-2013) (1986-2013)

19.6 8.7 14.1

Grass Frosts (<= -1.0°C)

Equal

2.1

(1986-2013)

Air Frosts

Equal

0.1

(1986-2013)

(0.0°C)

Sunshine hours 268.1 118% Sunshine hours – lowest Sunshine hours – highest Sunshine hours total – 2014 2009.9 102%

226.1 (1930-2013) 140.7 1983 299.6 1969 1971.1 (1930-2013)

222.3

Rainfall (mm) 22.4 39% Rainfall (mm) – lowest Rainfall (mm) – highest Rainfall total (mm) – 2014 470.9 86%

57.6 2.3 161.0 548.4

(1930-2013) 1961 2001 (1930-2013)

634.5

Evapotranspiration – mm

102.3

103%

99.7

(1996-2013)

109.9

Avg. Daily Windrun (km)

288.2

96%

301.7

(1996-2013)

290.3

Mean soil temp – 10cm

11.7

-0.1°C

11.8

(1986-2013)

12.2

Mean soil temp – 30cm

14.1

+0.6°C

13.5

(1986-2013)

14.4

1997.4 56.0

¹GDD’s Max/Min are calculated from absolute daily maximum and minimum temperatures ²GDD’s Mean are calculated from average hourly temperatures

October 2013 weather October 2013 was very sunny, with low rainfall and an average mean temperature. Temperature The mean temperature for October of 13.0°C was equal to the long-term

average. The average daily maximum temperature was 19.0°C; 0.8°C above the long-term average. The average daily minimum temperature was 6.9°C; 0.9°C below the long-term average. The daily range in temperature for October was 12.1°C, compared to the long-term average of 10.4°C. The day

time temperatures were slightly warmer and the night time temperatures slightly cooler than average. Growing degree-days Figure 1 presents the growing-degree days for the current season (green line 2014/2015) in comparison to the previous three seasons and also the 2005/2006 season. Only the first half of the season from September to December is presented in order to try and keep the graph a bit simpler. At the end of September 2014 (+12.0 GDD) and September 2013 (+17.3 GDD) there was very little difference between the two seasons. However, the separation between the two seasons was marked by the end of October. Very warm weather in October 2013 saw the GDD line climb rapidly while in October 2014 average temperatures kept the GDD line fairly horizontal. The straight green lines from 1 November to 31 December indicate where the GDD line would end up with different temperature scenarios. Mean temperatures for these two months either -1.5°C, -1.0°C, +1.0°C, +2.0°C from the long-term average. Current climate predictions from NIWA don’t indicate that temperatures will be well above average in the next few months, so it is extremely unlikely that the GDD line will end up following the +2.0°C course. It is extremely rare for a monthly mean temperature to be 2.0°C above or below average. I would also suggest that the +1.0°C scenario is also unlikely. Hopefully, the GDD line will not follow the -1.0°C or -1.5°C course. Cool temperatures during November

WINEPRESS November 2014

would delay the start of flowering and cool weather over flowering in December would lead to poor fruit set and lower yields and also more variation in fruit maturity at harvest. Rainfall October’s rainfall total of 22.4 mm was 39% of the long-term average of 57.6 mm. Total rainfall from July to October 2014 was only 83.0 mm. This is the lowest total on record for these four months for the 85 years 1930-2014. The previous two years (2013 and 2012) recorded approximately three times the rainfall of 2014 for the four months July to October. 2008 (433.2 mm) is the wettest on record for the 85 years 1930-2014. 1937 was the driest on record (90.9 mm) until this year. Total rainfall for January to October 2014 of 470.9 mm was 86% of the long-term average. This was in marked contrast to the same 10 months in 2013 when total rainfall was 634.5, or 163.6 mm greater

than in 2014. Of the 10 months January to October 2014, seven have recorded below average rainfall. Fortunately the other three months (January, April and June) recorded well above average rainfall. Soil Moisture A graph of soil moisture was presented in Met Report last month. However, given the low rainfall it seems appropriate to look at soil moisture again. At the beginning of October 2014 shallow soil moisture at the Blenheim weather station was 33.6%. However, with only 7.0 mm rain recorded in the first 25 days of October, the soil moisture fell from 33.6% to 20.4%. 9.6 mm rain on 26 October and a further 5.8 mm on 29 October

only held the soil moisture from falling further. Figure 1 contrasts soil moisture for the current season at 31 October, with the two previous seasons. On 31 October 2014 the soil moisture was 21.2%; this is 23 days ahead of 2013 (green line 21.2% on 23 Nov) and 12 days ahead of 2012 (red line 21.2% on 12 Nov). Rainfall in both November and December 2012 (32.4 mm) and 2013 (65.6 mm) were below average (96.4 mm). The green line for 2013 shows an increase in soil moisture from 19.6% on 25 November to 30.2% on 30 November after 35.2 mm rain was recorded over four days. However, two weeks later on 15 November 2013, without further rain, soil moisture had dropped back to 19.3%. This indicates how quickly moisture is lost from the

Table 2: July to October rainfall comparisons (mm)

2014 2013 2012 2008 2002 1937

July to October 83.0 223.4 281.6

433.2 111.4 Highest

90.9 Lowest

Figure 1: Growing degree days for Blenheim: days ahead (+) or behind (-) average Growing Degree Day summation starting from 1 September; straight lines indicate GDD projections from 1 November to 31 December for different temperature scenarios

WINEPRESS November 2014

topsoil at this time of the year. In order to avoid the current very dry spell turning into a summer drought, Marlborough needs to receive well above average rainfall in November 2014. 100 mm of rain in November 2014 (double the average), would not go amiss and this amount of rain would still be lower than the potential evapotranspiration for November of 121.2 mm.

Figure 1: Shallow soil moisture (0-35 cm) at the Grovetown Park weather station in Blenheim

Sunshine Total sunshine for October 2014 of 268.1 hours was well above long-term average. In contrast October 2011 recorded only 165.5 hours sunshine, or 102.6 hours less than 2014. October 2014 was the sunniest October since 2002, which recorded 282.3 hours. Total sunshine for January to October 2014 at 2009.9 hours was 102% of the longterm average.

km wind-run. Six days during October were quite windy, recording more than 400 km wind run. However, the maximum daily wind run of 501 km recorded on 6 October 2014 was well below the maximum on 26 October 2013, of 667.0 km. The maximum wind

speed recorded in Blenheim was 72.4 km/hr on 8 October 2014. October is the windiest month so far in 2014. Rob Agnew Plant & Food Research / Marlborough Research Centre

Wind October 2014 average daily wind run was 288.2 km. This was 96% of the October mean (1996-2013) of 301.7 km. Seven days during October were relatively calm, recording less than 200

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WINEPRESS November 2014

El Nino and What It Means Stu Powell PhD Climate Consulting

In July this year the Southern Oscillation Index (SOI) returned to an El Nino.What does this mean and what impact will it have on weather in Marlrborough this growing season? El Nino refers to one of two phases of the SOI. This is actually a measure of the strength of a much larger atmospheric circulation called the Walker circulation. The Walker circulation moves air zonally between the eastern and western sides of the South Pacific. The strength of the SOI at any given time is derived from the difference in pressure between Tahiti in the eastern Pacific and Darwin in the west. When the SOI is high it is referred to as La Nina, and when it is low it is called El Nino. Correlations of the SOI with the mean sea-level pressure fields over New Zealand indicate a strong association between the SOI and average pressure gradients. Negative SOI values (El Nino) are related to more frequent south-westerly airflow, while positive values (La Nina) result in a higher incidence of north-easterly flow and anticyclones that travel across the south of the South Island. This relationship affects the weather anomalies experienced in different parts of the

WINEPRESS November 2014

country. El Nino is often characterised by cooler temperatures on the windward south and western sides of the country, and warmer temperatures in the north and east. Rainfall follows a similar pattern with higher falls in the south and western coasts, and lower totals toward the north and east of both Islands. The effects of an El Nino on Marlborough are a little varied, with weather patterns modified by the complex mountainous terrain surrounding the region. However, over the region as a whole an El Nino may increase daily maximum temperatures, largely because of an increase in wind from the west or north-west. Rainfall is usually decreased as rain events must traverse the South Islands mountainous divide and sunshine hours are higher. El Nino can increase the incidence of spring frost, as more frequent southwesterly conditions bring bursts of colder air followed by a rapid clearance. The impact on frost severity is less clear, as minimum temperature

variations under west or south-westerly conditions are high across the region. It is important not to attribute too much of the daily weather on the phase of the SOI. Analysis has shown that El Nino or La Nina only directly accounts for 10 – 25% of the weather we get! The rest is attributed to the general atmospheric circulation that occurs between warmer and cooler parts of the planet. The effects of either phase of the SOI can be over-shadowed by other large circulation patterns that affect our weather. One such example is the Southern Annular Mode (SAM) and this may enhance or reduce the effects of the SOI. The strength of the SOI and this season’s El Nino are updated on a daily, weekly and monthly basis. If you are interested in tracking the changes, try this web site http://www.weatherzone. com.au/climate/indicator_enso. jsp?c=soi it may provide you with some indication as to the sort of weather to expect in coming weeks.

2014 A Great Year For Growers Tessa Nicholson

The higher than average yields this vintage has led to a sharp increase in profit before tax for Marlborough growers, according to the results of the Viticulture Monitoring Report. Funded by New Zealand Winegrowers and the Ministry for Primary Industries, the report was released last month. It shows the favourable weather conditions throughout the growing season led to a larger than average yield, up 20 percent in this region alone. The data that makes up the report comes from talks with the owners of 25 vineyards in Marlborough. Twenty of those are contract growers, five are winery-operated vineyards. Six are located in the Awatere Valley and the other 19 are in the Wairau. The model vineyard takes the results from all 25, and is based on 30 producing hectares, where Sauvignon Blanc is the dominant variety, followed by Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Riesling. “The aim of the model is to typify an average vineyard for the region. Income includes income from grapes, off vineyard income, new borrowing and other direct vineyard income,” the report states. In comparison, a Hawke’s Bay model, based on 12.5 hectares, with data coming from 20 vineyards is also produced. It must be noted, that the growers were spoken to in May of this year, just after vintage. The thoughts and opinions expressed relate to that time period, and there may have been some subtle changes in their thoughts about the future, since then. The Marlborough model’s profit before tax was up 25 percent on the 2012/13 vintage, at $368,800, or

$12,290 per hectare, making it the best financial result in this region since 2008. The report states the increased profit is almost exclusively due to yields increasing 20 percent over the previous year to 14.6 tonnes per hectare. (In the 2012/13 year, the yield was 12.2 tonnes). Putting that into perspective, the average tonnage of 14.6 is 41 percent higher than the average for the entire period of 2009 – 2013. However the high yields did come with some issues, mainly unharvested fruit. “Within the monitored group 6 percent of the total production was not harvested for wine production and was either harvested directly to the ground or left unharvested,” the report states. There was no major change in grape prices this year, which is not surprising given the large increase in 2013. “With good demand for grapes going into the 2013/14 season, prices remained stable after increasing 22

percent to $1720 per tonne in 2012/13. In the model the average price per tonne for all varieties was just one percent higher compared with the previous season.” There was increased expenditure this past season in terms of labour and also fertiliser costs. “After a significant reduction in fertiliser volumes applied during the 2008-12 period, fertiliser expenses were up by 47 percent compared with 2012/13 to $293 per hectare, which in turn was an 82 percent increase on 2011/12 expenditure. Several growers mentioned that they perceived yield and quality had suffered from low or nil fertiliser inputs in previous years. With the large potential crop and improved cash flow, those growers said they decided to increase fertiliser inputs in 2013/14. Suspension and fertigation methods of applying fertilisers have also become more popular despite

WINEPRESS November 2014

being more expensive. Five out of the 25 monitored vineyards applied no fertiliser in 2013/14 and in most cases this was because soil and plant tests showed adequate nutrient levels are present. “Labour expenditure increased from $3847 per hectare in 2012/13 to $5177 in 2013/14.This was a 20 percent increase over the average labour expenditure of the 2009-13 period of $4329 per hectare. Canopy management was the main contributor to the increased labour expenditure item, increasing by 91 percent over 2012/13 to $1393 per hectare reflecting the large crop and the major expenses associated with crop reduction.” While the majority of growers were happy with their relationship with their winery customers, four of the monitored group reported a negative relationship. “They quoted issues such as perceived lack of interest in the grower, late payment and unwillingness to change

yield cap or price to meet levels offered by the competition.” Morale among the growers monitored, was high. The majority noted they were “reasonably optimistic about their businesses”. When asked about the future of the New Zealand wine industry, two

“This reflects the monitored group’s acknowledgement that the 2013/14 yield was exceptional.

WINEPRESS November 2014

thirds said they were optimistic. The other third expressed concern about the continuing expansion of the “high volume, low margin market for Marlborough wine, which they are worried may erode the quality perception of the Marlborough brand.

The growers see an increasingly split market with the potential risk of the premium end being reduced in favour of the commodity product.” That business optimism of the majority of growers is being translated into expansion for a few. Two are planting vines on significant new areas of their properties and another is replanting diseased vines. Three growers are looking at purchasing addition vineyards to increase their business size and improve economies of scale. Looking ahead to next year, the growers are expecting their profit before tax to drop around 22 percent, in 2015, with the same average price and expenses. “This reflects the monitored group’s acknowledgement that the 2013/14 yield was exceptional and unlikely to be repeated in 2014/15. The budgeted yield of 13.2 tonnes per hectare is nevertheless 13 percent higher than the average yield for the 2009-2013 period and produces a very positive vineyard surplus.”

New Board Members Last month Winepress introduced you to the two new Wine Marlborough Board members representing Grape Growers.This month we talk to the new Winery representatives. For the first time ever in a Wine Marlborough Board election, there was a dead tie between two candidates, which has led to an increase in board member numbers. Three new winery representatives have been elected; Jack Glover – Accolade Wines, Jason Yank – Astrolabe Wines and Rhyan Wardman - Indevin. Rhyan Wardman – Chief Operating Officer Indevin After 20 years in the wine industry, Rhyan Wardman admits there is nowhere else he would rather be. Having graduated from Lincoln University with a Masters of Applied Science, (his thesis was on low alcohol wines) he has spent the majority of his career as a winemaker. And not just in New Zealand. Initially after graduating, he followed the “harvest trail” working in America, Chile and Spain and first came to Marlborough to work for Seresin in 1996. Three years later he headed to the UK, with a goal in mind. “I wanted to expose myself to the market and get a better understanding of how it works outside of New Zealand,” he says. “I became a flying winemaker for a UK importer and spent the next 10 years travelling around the world, looking after winemaking projects that were targeted for the UK market. It was a fascinating experience.” He says at the time, the UK was undergoing substantial changes, particularly when it came to business models. And those changes were very different to what Rhyan had been accustomed to here in New Zealand. “In a business model context here in New Zealand, I was accustomed to limited supply and product push. I

became very quickly focused on the other side of the coin in the UK, where it was all about market pull and leaner structures. That was an eye opener.” Having been at Indevin since the beginning of 2010, Rhyan believes the time is now right for him to be involved in the industry at a Wine Marlborough board level. “I have spent 10 years of my 20 years in the industry, outside of New Zealand, dealing with international markets and other supply countries. I’ve come back with a broader view of what makes the wine industry work and I felt that I could add a bit of value.” He says the timing is perfect, given the changes that have occurred in Marlborough in the last six to seven years. “We have gone through a considerable growth phase here that has brought about a fair amount of volatility in terms of grape pricing and challenges in terms of brand positioning. And I think that very soon we will face a whole new set of challenges, that we will need to navigate our way through.” One of those challenges Rhyan expects will be dealing with the situation of there being no land left to plant out. He says producers have to be careful when we hit that position, not to be too greedy. If the region starts demanding too much of a premium, we could lose our strong consumer base. “When we are fully planted out, are we going to revert back to the product push mentality of saying, right, this is what we have - if you want it you are going to need to pay for it? If we do that we will be having scant regard for the end consumer. “The consumer perception is the number one facet that has been driving

our export growth. We have to have a very good understanding of who is drinking our wines and why they are making those purchases. If we understand that we will know the price elasticity our brand can allow, or more importantly what the consumer will allow. At a certain point if we keep charging too much they will become disengaged.” Dealing with the volatility of the industry is something that needs to taken into consideration Rhyan says. Although he admits that is a hard one, given we are growing grapes in a cool climate. “If you look at the last few years, the difference between the 2012 vintage output and the 2014 vintage was massive. We have to accept that is going to happen in a cool climate region. And those things do need to be factored in

Ryan Wardman

WINEPRESS November 2014

Jason Yank

to any decisions going forward. “But we need to always ensure our end consumer is considered, because they are the ones paying for it. We need to listen to them, because they will dictate the style we need to be making, the brand positioning and most importantly, the price elasticity they are comfortable with.” Jason Yank – Managing Director Astrolabe In 2004 Jason arrived in Marlborough with a desire to be involved in the burgeoning wine industry. With a degree in Marketing, Communication and Design plus Human Resources, he had no idea just where he could use his

WINEPRESS November 2014

talents. So he decided to begin on the ground, working within a contracting gang overseen by Jeremy Hyland. “I told him I wanted as much vineyard exposure as possible, new plantings, mature plantings and everything in between. Basically I gave myself a year to go from plant to bottle to see where my transferable skills were best suited.” A vintage at The Crossings in his second year convinced him that the viticultural side was where he really wanted to concentrate. In 2005 he joined Ormond Nurseries, and remained there for the next four years. Four years that saw a plethora of plantings throughout New Zealand, but mainly here in Marlborough. “It was a booming phase and I loved it. I really enjoyed converting cropping and the odd dairy unit, albeit quite small, into vineyard.” Some of those blocks that were being planted are now providing fruit to Astrolabe, which is something Jason is extremely proud of. “I still have a vast appreciation about what goes on in the vineyard, as I was a part of the team that organised the plantings of some of the blocks we now source from. So it’s gone full circle.” Since 2008, Jason has worked at Astrolabe, initially as the General Manager. In 2011 he became a shareholder and now holds the Managing Director’s position. In terms of standing for the board,

Jason says the time spent with Ormond Nurseries and Astrolabe have given him an appreciation of where Marlborough sits within the New Zealand wine scene and also where New Zealand sits internationally. “Maintaining, protecting and building brand Marlborough and ensuring its integrity and brand equity going forward, is where I think I can make a contribution.” While he may be representing the wineries in the region, Jason has a close affinity with the growers as well, having worked with them for the past decade. “I guess I have a foot in both camps, as I have come through the grower base from a viticultural point of view.” But there are challenges facing the industry he says. “There are business operating in Marlborough that don’t own brands – that is a danger that I see. It is our job on the board to maintain brand Marlborough at its premium level and positioning around the world. I wouldn’t like to see the currency of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc devalued by poor quality and cheaper versions, branded the same as other premium products – that devalues the whole story.” Jack Glover – Sales and Marketing Manager Accolade Wines In the past 18 years, there have only been a few months where a member

of the Glover family has not been on the board of Wine Marlborough. Owen Glover began the trend, back in 1996, beginning as Chair of the Marlborough Grape Growers, and later the Chair of Wine Marlborough. When he retired in 2006, his eldest son Ben was elected as a winery representative and now Ben has stood down, he has been replaced by his younger brother Jack – the Sales and Marketing Manager for Accolade Wines. With a degree in wine marketing, Jack is very much a Marlburian at heart. Born here, he has known little else apart from the wine industry, and at a very early age knew he wanted to be a part of it. “I was unsure where abouts I wanted to be, the only thing I was certain of was I didn’t want to be a winemaker. So when I discovered the undergraduate degree in Wine Marketing in Adelaide, I headed over there.” Three years of the degree, two years working for Lion Nathan in Australia, a vintage in California and Jack was back in New Zealand, as the regional sales manager for Pernod Ricard, based in Wellington. In 2008, he headed to Auckland to take over the national on premise manager position, and came back to Marlborough in 2011, to work for the Mud House Wine Group, now Accolade Wines. He is also involved in a family vineyard and label, Zephyr Wines, and is an international wine judge.

Jack describes the sales and marketing side of the industry, as the third point in the triangle, sitting alongside winemaking and viticulture. “New Zealand and Marlborough has to be thinking about how we are a demand led business and we need to be making decisions on where that demand is coming from. Which means sales and marketing teams should be providing more insight and help (about what consumers are wanting) rather than leaving stylistic ideas to be generated only in the winery or vineyard.” Engaging members is another area he feels quite strongly about, although he admits it isn’t easy to make everyone happy. “Engagement is a word I use lot, and it’s lacking I think because Marlborough has grown so big, so quickly. There are a lot of people taking grapes from here and we want to make sure that they feel close to us as an industry. I would like to see Marlborough become a really dynamic and harmonious industry, as opposed to one where there is fragmentation.” In terms of future issues, Jack believes sustainability in terms of a commercial industry is vital. “In particular we need to look after the smaller to medium sized producers to make sure they are sustainable. What we don’t want is attrition at that level in Marlborough, because they provide the

Jack Glover

soul and meaning to what we do here. I think sustainability has been focused on a lot in terms of the vineyard and winery and I think it is time for a shift in our way of thinking, to what we can do to protect our industry at a commercial level. The risk is we lose a level of people and we know that is going to happen anyway through succession planning. But you don’t want to see it happen because it is no longer commercially viable to be in that space in Marlborough anymore.” He would also like to see the Marlborough sub regional story continue to be expanded. “Because that is going to help with the brand equity of Marlborough.”

WINEPRESS November 2014

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A 21st Celebration Tessa Nicholson

After 21 vintages, produced from leased or make-do premises, Whitehaven Wines is celebrating their brand new winery. Opened last month the 7,500 tonne wine lists in the country. During winery in Pauls Rd, is a far cry from the the first few years of the partnership, former facilities, which were situated in Whitehaven saw their US sales nearly a re-jigged apple packhouse. Described double every year. In 2008, for the first by owner, Sue White as being “rustic at time ever, Sauvignon Blanc made it best”, the lack of bespoke facilities has into the US Top 100, an annual report not deterred the growth of Whitehaven. published in the US Restaurant Wine Whitehaven is very much a family Magazine – which analyses annual wine owned company, established by Sue and consumption for the US hospitality and her late husband Greg back in 1994. wine industries. It was Whitehaven’s The very first wine was produced by Sauvignon Blanc that made the list. Grove Mill, with Whitehaven leasing By 2010, the US Wine and Spirits the Grove Mill premises in Dodson St magazine had declared Whitehaven the a year later. The second vintage for the favourite New Zealand wine being company (1995 – the wettest vintage to poured for American consumers – its date) saw the Whitehaven Riesling win Sauvignon Blanc ranked third amongst a gold medal. Since then it has been the top-selling Sauvignon Blanc onwards and upwards for the company. available in American restaurants. In 2001, with expansion in mind, the Sadly, Greg didn’t live to see this company moved out to Paul’s Rd, to success, having died in early 2007. Sue what had been an apple packhouse. has continued at the helm, ensuring the Sue says she and Greg literally placed company remained in family hands. partitions within the packhouse, and Now 21 vintages down the track, used the former storage areas as barrel Whitehaven is exporting to not only halls, growing the production to 2500 America, but also the UK, Ireland, tonnes. (In 2007 another expansion saw Australia, Sweden, Europe, Canada and the company increase size to become a Asia. As exports have grown, so too has 5000 tonne winery). the need for an increase in production. In 2003 J&E Gallo saw the potential The new winery will be able to handle of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and 7500 tonnes. wanting to be involved with a family The other buildings have been designed owned company in the region, they formed an agreement with the Whites. Whitehaven would buy the grapes, make the wine and Gallo’s would then distribute it in America. The relationship between the US giant and Whitehaven has grown exponentially, leading to the company’s wines making it on to some The new offices and winery are of the most prestigious

by architect Chris Nott, and took just over a year to complete. With a new purpose built barrel hall, 220 tanks (an increase of 28) new light and airy offices overlooking nearby vineyards, and a boardroom with a view out to the Richmond Ranges, the winery is as far removed from a packhouse as is possible. The multi million dollar development is also an indication of the confidence Sue has regarding the future of Marlborough as a wine producing region. “As a company we are confident of the opportunities that are still out there for premium quality wine and we are optimistic about the long-term sustainability of the Marlborough wine industry,” she says. “The hard work which so many companies have done to achieve and maintain production of premium quality wine is key to Marlborough – and New Zealand – preserving its reputation in the marketplace and we are committed to continuing that focus on quality.” And while it may have been Riesling that started the ball rolling 21 years ago, Whitehaven is now producing 11 different wines, with 90 percent of production exported.

a far cry from the former apple packhouse, much to the delight of all the Whitehaven staff.

WINEPRESS November 2014

A to Z Diversity Tessa Nicholson

In recent months Winepress has explored some of the alternative varieties being grown here in Marlborough. But one company stands out amongst the rest when it comes to diversification – Herzog’s. One of the things I have noticed while researching the alternative series, is that most companies are trialling one or two varieties, as they try to determine just what will suit this cool climate region. But when you get to Herzog’s, there is no such thing as one or two, or minor experiments. Hans and Therese have gone full bore and on their 11.5 hectare Rapaura vineyard they have 29 varieties. No that is not a spelling mistake – 29 varieties, from A – Z, with a few extras thrown in. The remarkable story of Herzog’s began back in 1994, when the Swiss couple bought an apple orchard, with the sole intention of turning it into a vineyard and winery. The property was no spur of the moment decision for Hans, whose family has been making wine in

WINEPRESS November 2014

Switzerland since the 16th century. He had been visiting Marlborough for 10 years and was adamant that he wanted to buy a block of land, near the Wairau River, with sandy, gravelly soils. Marlborough wasn’t the first wine region the couple had looked at. “We had a vineyard in Switzerland and we were looking for a second,” Therese explains. “In Europe the continental climate means every vintage is different, you can get maybe two good vintages out of every 10. We looked at the Napa, but our pockets weren’t big enough. We looked at Australia, but the climate wasn’t good enough. Then when we came to New Zealand in the summer of 81, Hans said, this would be a fantastic place to grow grapes.” It took him more than 10 years to

convince Therese that he was right, and then another six years to convince her to leave her restaurant, their vineyard and winery and home in Switzerland and move to New Zealand for good. “It was the end of 1999 when we came here for good,” says Therese. “We thought, the new millennium – that is a good time for a life change.” Both Hans and Therese say the new venture was never intended to be a money making commercial enterprise. Instead it was to provide Hans with the ability to experiment and fulfil his life-long passion to make high quality wines, particularly Bordeaux blends. The Rapaura property provides conditions that allow that. It is free draining, consistently warmer than other parts of Marlborough, and gives

him the advantage of growing late ripening varieties that normally wouldn’t even be considered in the region. All the plantings are close, with 62,000 vines planted on the 11.5ha, or 5500 vines per hectare.Yields are extremely low, around 2 tonnes per hectare. Hans who is not only the winemaker, but the hands on viticulturist says he has optimised each and every row. Over the past 14 years, varieties have come and gone, with top grafting common when he has been able to get his hands on new varieties and/or clones. In his words, he has “planted everything that wouldn’t grow at home.” But it wasn’t easy to begin with, given there was a dearth of varieties available in New Zealand. His first experiment was with Montepulciano, not a variety he ever intended to grow given it was the cheap, staple wine he and Therese had drunk when they were young. But beggars can’t be choosers “We had to take what we could get,” Hans says. Ormond Nurseries had 2500 Montepulciano vines available, so he took them. He said to Therese, “if we can get this ripe, we can get anything ripe”. And he hasn’t been disappointed, saying it is the one variety that has surprised him the most. “For me one of the latest ripening, but for me it is the best,” he says. “Since the first vintage I have never been disappointed, never.” Nebbiolo was one of the next varieties to be planted and that was a real struggle Hans admits. Planted in 1996, it was 2004 before he got his first crop. Maybe the vines heard him telling Therese, that it wasn’t working and he would have to pull them out and replace with something else. Just in time, the vines fruited and the resulting wine was so good, they have remained an integral part of the vineyard. Over the years, he has tried a vast number of varieties, if they work all good, if they don’t they are removed. He is always “fine tuning” the vineyard Therese says. “If he sees something more interesting he will pull some vines out or graft the new variety on top.” And despite lifted eyebrows from Therese, Hans admits there are still a few varieties he wouldn’t mind trying – the Italian Fiano for one. “I think it has huge potential.” In the meantime though, he is carefully managing the 29 varieties he has – and making wines that have placed him in the top echelon of winemakers in this part of the world. Those 29 varieties by the way are; Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris,Viognier, Montepulciano, Nebbiolo, Grenache, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Sangiovese, Semillon, Barbera, Tempranillo, Zweigelt, St Laurent, Lagrein, Saperavi, Riesling,Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne,Verdelho, Arneis, Gruner Veltliner, Chardonnay, Muscat-Ottonel,Vermintino, Gewurztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc.

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WINEPRESS November 2014

Generation Y-ine Kelsey Daniels – Assistant Winemaker Sugar Loaf Wines Kelsey Daniels has some serious knee padding going on at the moment. The assistant winemaker at Sugar Loaf Wines, destroyed her AC joint when skiing in August, resulting in her having to be choppered off Rainbow ski field. A bad accident most would agree. But when she tells me within a few minutes about how she once knocked over a full bin of boiling water, straight into her gumboots, which caused some damaging foot blisters, I have to ask if she might be a little accident prone. “Yes just a little,” she agrees. But what is no accident is how this 24-year-old from California has worked her way into an assistant winemaking position in this part of the world. With extremely high grades in both sciences and literature, Kelsey had to make a decision on whether she would follow a

WINEPRESS November 2014

career path in writing or sciences. The sciences won out, when she decided to undertake a four-year degree in Viticulture and Oenology at UC Davis. Given she has no wine background, (Mum and Dad don’t even drink wine) means her decision was slightly out of left field. “In my third year at high school, I was doing an honours chemistry project which meant we had to shadow a professional chemist in some field. Everyone was doing medical based projects but I wanted to do something different,” she says. “So I went to a local winery and got to see the lab girl. She was young, fresh out of college and she was so inspiring. I remember walking into the lab and seeing all the different apparatus and colours –

and then the fact that she was holding a glass of wine in her hand was so cool to 16-year-old me. I think the gut feeling about being a winemaker came from that experience.” Cramming the first four years of learning into three, meant she could take a year off to travel overseas and also study winemaking outside of America. So in 2011, she arrived in Christchurch, enrolled at Lincoln University for a semester and arranged an apartment to live in. The date was 22 February and having only been in Christchurch for 24 hours, she was shaken to the core by the 6.1 earthquake. “I live in California and have experienced earthquakes – but that was like – welcome to New Zealand.” There was a bonus though, given Lincoln’s international students were moved out of the city and taken on a tour of the South Island wine regions.

The quake meant the semester course was quite truncated, but it was enough of an experience to ensure Kelsey had New Zealand firmly in her sights to come back to. She returned to California to complete her degree, and straight after finishing got an internship at Talley Vineyard in Arroyo Grande. It was her first harvest and her first opportunity to see just how much madness a vintage can be. “I was worried that maybe I would discover that it wasn’t my thing,” she admits. And then the accident – on day two of her employment. “I happened to knock a trash bin full of hot water all down my gumboots. It burnt my feet to blisters and I thought to myself, ‘Kelsey what are you doing here, get back to your writing.’ But I stuck it out and here I am now.” Keen to get back to New Zealand for more experience, she began emailing wineries in Marlborough looking for a cellar hand position. Her name was passed on to the winemaker at Sugar

Loaf, and before she knew it, Kesley was employed due to start in February 2013. What should have been a three-month stint, turned into seven months prior to her travelling to Germany for a vintage. She really had no plans to come back at that stage, but her work had obviously impressed the team at Sugar Loaf, because they offered her the position of Assistant Winemaker, for the 2014 vintage. “It was a real sweetener.” Sugar Loaf Winery is a contract winemaking facility, with Sugar Loaf wines one of the many clients. It is geared up to smaller producers, and owned by Kate Acland, who established the company back in 2007. Kelsey is one of two staff who work full time in the winery, with Kate travelling from Mt Somers every few weeks. It means Kelsey is very much hands on – something that she still can’t quite believe. “I have had to step up my game and there is so much more responsibility to do stuff that I hadn’t expected to face

for several years. I didn’t think I would be trusted with so much until I was in my late 20s and here I am doing it at 24. At times it’s just me, I run the cellar and the lab and get to do everything, as opposed to just being stuck on a press. It’s amazing and a very unique winemaking team.” And being on her own for so much of the time is something she revels in. “Man do I sing and dance a lot. It’s great to turn my music up and bee bop around.” This young winemaker obviously has a bright future, one that she would like to spend doing as many vintages as she can. “I will be here for the 2015 vintage, but after that I would like to do a couple of vintages each year and experience as many different techniques and wine styles as I can.” Given her achievements at such a young age, it will be no accident that will ensure she accomplishes that.

WINEPRESS November 2014

The Sensitive Side Of Wine Annabelle Latz - google.com/+AnnabelleLatz

The Cresswell Jackson New Zealand Wine Trust awarded its first research grant last year, to scientist Wendy Parr of Lincoln University. What’s happening one year on? Lincoln University based Dr Wendy Parr is a wine sensory scientist who, alongside Adelaide-based Phil Reedman MW, and colleagues at the University of Burgundy in France, and London University and Oxford University in the UK, will be investigating the influence of contextual variables on qualitative and quantitative aspects of sensory evaluations, by testing whether wines are perceived as tasting ‘different’ under particular conditions. A few years ago Phil approached Wendy at a Bragato conference and asked her if the topic they will be studying under the Wine Competition Trust funding was possible to investigate scientifically. Given Wendy uses sound scientific research principals to test sensory phenomena, she had only to think about it, before telling Phil – “absolutely.” Emotions, memories and surroundings of a wine judge and a tasting panel make up a huge component of the overall

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tasting experience, she believes. “The wine industry and university scientists are collaborating together. “ She also believes people are starting to appreciate that there is a lot more involved in appreciation of a wine than just its chemistry, something that winemakers have known for a long time. The investigation will take place at the Marlborough Research Centre in November and December, including a panel of participants, and involve tasting wines under various conditions. “I explain that we basically investigate how people experience wine,” Wendy says. Sensory science investigations involve months of planning to ensure that the procedures produce judgements that are as objective as possible. The main difference between sensory science and a formal tasting or judging is the controlled factors; for example the environment, the order of the wines within the flight, and era of the wine. “All the flights are in unique tasting orders for each person; these are all research factors.” The wine being used in the sensory science experiment, is Pinot Noir. An experimental psychologist before she studied viticulture and oenology at Lincoln University in 1999, Wendy focussed on wine memory as her thesis topic, before she was invited to complete her PhD in Wine Science. She believes there are some ethical aspects regarding the way some formal wine tasting and judging practices occur, aspects which are important to have knowledge about because studies show that the outcomes of formal wine judgings do influence what the consumer purchases and even what they believe. “If there are some questions that jump out, questions that are empirically testable, then scientists need to be able to test them,” she says.

Collectively Celebrating Diversity Annabelle Latz - google.com/+AnnabelleLatz

Keep up the great work with the aromatic wines, and spread the message of regional diversity, is the message for this region’s wine industry from Jeremy Stockman. Jeremy was the International Guest Judge at October’s Marlborough Wine Show, sponsored by Wine Marlborough. Tasting our Riesling was a highlight of the show for the Hong Kong-based wine merchant and General Manager of Watson’s Wine. He greatly applauded the variety for its ageing potential and proven quality. “The most revealing was the 10 yearold Riesling in the legacy class.” Jeremy has been judging wine shows for fifteen years, but this is the first time he’s judged such a class, which requires the entrant to put forward three identical wines, from consecutive years. “I’ve done something similar, but nothing this dedicated. To see where these wines will go is great, it was such a treat to judge that class.” Although Hong Kong’s wine drinking population is 80 percent red wine consumption with a preference for aged wine, Jeremy said if there was one global region’s white wine they did understand, it would be Marlborough’s. In Hong Kong, he said, it is usual custom to have many dishes on the table at once including a range of flavours and spices, so aromatics such as off-dry Riesling and Gewurztraminer work well. “Marlborough more and more is getting more known for its aromatics, and the climate suits it. Gewurztraminer and Gruner Veltliner are both naturally suited to this region.” Hong Kong, a city of seven million people, has a mature wine market and is a billboard for Asia.

“Whatever does well in Hong Kong does well in Asia. Marlborough is very much the dominant force.” This young wine region is still working out what grows well and where, and getting the message out to the world about the regional diversity is very important. Jeremy says it’s up to individual producers, and collective bodies like New Zealand Winegrowers, to work together and spread this message, including sub regional labelling, so consumers will start to see that not all the wine tastes the same, and is worth paying a premium for. “To an average-aged Chinese person, what does Awatere mean, what does Wairau mean? You have to teach the consumer.” In addition to the aromatics, Jeremy enjoyed the diversity of Sauvignon Blanc, with plenty of complexity which helps with ageing. “Five years ago people didn’t think it would be like that. The more interesting the components, the more layers, and the better a wine ages. “I came in knowing Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir very well, and I was not disappointed.” He enjoyed the minimally mineralled Chardonnay, which doesn’t need a lot of oak in this region. “The purity of Chardonnay grown here is a beauty.” Jeremy really enjoyed the younger Pinot Noir, particularly noting the 2012 to 2013 vintages as being very good. Entering your local wine show is

important, as it helps judges to see what the whole region is making, and provide a benchmark. “It’s not about being scared of being beaten by someone down the road, but establishing a good benchmark to test yourself and others against.” This year’s fourth annual Marlborough Wine Show resulted in 35 gold medals, 125 silver and 221 bronze, with 77% of entries receiving an award. Judging was led by Chair, Jeff Clarke of Ara.

WINEPRESS November 2014

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Marlborough Wine Takes 6 Nations Title New Zealand was deemed the country of the show, and it was a Marlborough producer named as the joint winner of Wine of the Show at this Year’s Six Nations Wine Challenge. The 6 Nations Wine Show is like no other, in the fact that you have to be invited to take part and once you have been accepted, you are then judged against the best of the best from other new world countries. So Dog Point’s 2012 Pinot Noir, taking out the Best Wine in the Show, alongside South Africa’s Silverthorn Blanc de Blancs 2011, was no mean feat. The Pinot was also named as the Top Pinot and the Best Red Wine of the Show, prior to being awarded the top title.

The challenging countries are Argentina, Australia, Chile, New Zealand, South Africa and the United States of America. The objective of the Challenge is to discover the New World Champions. The Judging will decide the Nation of Show, Wine of Show, Red and White Wines of Show. A trophy will be awarded for the top scoring wine in each of the 17 classes. Double Gold and Gold medals will also be awarded. This is the only wine show in the world where the wines come in exclusively by invitation from the What is the 6 Nations Wine Judges. Challenge? “Because the wines are all selected The Challenge is owned and managed by each of the judges, the standard of by the Association of Australian wine quality must surely be higher Boutique Winemakers Inc. Entry is by than any competition of this size in the invitation and the judge representing world,” says New Zealand’s judge, Bob each country makes his selections in Campbell MW. anticipation of winning the various There are 17 classes: and each Judge awards. is set the task of selecting 100 wines across the17 Classes with a maximum of 10 in any one class – the best in their country regardless of wine company size and wine volume available. There are three The Judges From left to right: Fabricio judging (Argentina), Eduardo (Chile), Michael

days in Sydney and the scores are calculated to determine; Trophy and Runner up (Double Gold) in each class plus Double Gold and Gold medals where agreed. All trophy wines are re-judged for the Wine of Show, White Wine of Show and Red Wine of Show. Nation of Show is then calculated. For only the third time in its 12 year history, New Zealand was named as Nation of the Show, having won the following classes by amassing a higher number of points than all other countries: • Sparkling wine • Aromatic wines • Sauvignon Blanc (top wine was Tokara, a South African producer) • Pinot Noir • Dessert wine Dog Point Pinot Noir 2012 wasn’t the only Marlborough wine to shine in the competition. Giesen Wines The Brothers Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2013 won the Trophy for Dessert Wines, with Forrest Wines Botrytised Riesling 2012 runner up. Johanneshof Cellars Gewurztraminer 2013 was the runner up in the Aromatic class.

(Sth Africa), Bob (NZ), Huon (Australia), Judith (Organiser), and Dan (US). WINEPRESS November 2014

Wine Tasting In The Shadow Of The Andes Bev Marshall bev@zaccarat.co.nz

When wine tasting do you heave a sigh of relief when you get a tray of glasses and tasting notes and are left alone? No need to search for the “coffee and leather” in front of an audience. In South America there is no choice – the tasting experience is personal. We are Marlborough grape-growers and recently spent a couple of weeks in Chile and Argentina, visiting vineyards and wineries to broaden our knowledge of new world wines. It was very different from what we typically experience at New Zealand wineries. On arrival we find it is necessary to make appointments for tasting visits, and while this feels like a nuisance it becomes clear it’s a good idea. An appointment ensures the cellar door is open and, importantly, there is an English speaker available to serve us. In Santa Cruz in the heart of Colchagua, a couple of hours south of Santiago, we hire a driver/ guide who arranges our appointments. This is not as straightforward as it sounds. It is apparent that wine tourism is in the early stages here as we try to find someone both reasonably fluent in English and who knows the area and

the wineries. The young man at our hotel has a friend who knows someone who might help. We meet Alfredo who has completed a tourism diploma and is a local. He makes appointments and transports us around the wineries we have on our list, ranging from large scale to boutique. You can make the appointments and drive yourself but we find it easier to have a local make the arrangements and of course it means we get to take in the scenery and don’t have to make excessive use of the spittoon! To our surprise there is a security guard at each winery, and he checks our name against his list before opening the gate. In every case there is polished glassware ready and a well schooled young man or woman to conduct a winery tour and tasting. They all speak excellent English, specialise in wine tourism, and are incredibly knowledgeable about their winery’s vineyard and

The novel way of creating a new vine - the canes are bent down and inserted into the soil and left to take root 24

WINEPRESS November 2014

winemaking. In all cases we enjoy personalised service as do other visitors we see on our travels. We guess the hourly wage rate is much lower than in New Zealand. There is always a tasting fee, and it is between $US10 and $US40 per person (that’s not a misprint). Generally French varietals reign but for us the introduction to Carmenère is an eye opener - an early drinking (early as in young, not so much early in the day, but I won’t judge you) lighter style red. Originally a Bordeaux grape, Carmenère disappeared from European vineyards in the mid 19th Century reappearing among the Merlot vines in Chile 100 years later. The absence of phylloxera allows some interesting vineyard practices, such as propagating new plants directly from the canes of existing vines. The canes are bent down and inserted into the soil and left to take root. After about three years hey presto! an identical vine.

The Casablanca Valley is 45 minutes west of Santiago a relatively new grape growing area planted in the mid 1980s. It has a coastal cool climate and as it has a developing reputation for Sauvignon Blanc it is of great interest to us. Here at Vina Casas del Bosque we meet Chief Winemaker Grant Phelps, a New Zealander who has been in Chile for 14 years. He takes us on a tour of the vineyard and then we do a tank and barrel tastings of the wines. We find his Sauvignon Blanc less herbaceous and more restrained than what we might consider the classic Marlborough style. In Argentina we limit ourselves to the valleys around Mendoza, a pleasant city in the shadow of the Andes. This time we have located and pre-book a licensed guide who is also a certified sommelier to drive us. We spend a couple of days visiting vineyards and wine tasting in the two main valleys near Mendoza - Lujan de Cuyo and the Uco Valley. The Mendoza area has over 250 sunshine days and only about 200mm of rain per year. Irrigation comes from the Andes, and in the case of the Uco Valley, a massive aquifer. The stability of the climate makes for predictable growing seasons and the dry heat means no fungal problems. In the Uco we are curious about the over vine nets as we’ve been told there are no bird problems because of the altitude.

However there is a hail problem and that’s where the nets come in. At 850 meters above sea level and 35 kilometers south of Mendoza city, Lujan is located in the center of Mendoza province and we are told has the best terroir for Malbec. There have been vineyards here since the 19th century when immigrants from Spain, France and Italy arrived. By contrast the Uco Valley is in the central south west area of the province, tucked under the towering snow capped Andes. It is 100kms from Mendoza city and has an altitude of 1100 meters.Vineyards in this area may date from 50 or 60 years ago, however the bulk appears to be new developments. Over the past 10 years the wine industry in Argentina has galloped ahead. The devaluation of the peso in 2002 reduced the costs of both development and production. A lot of foreigners bought large tracts of land, sometimes with existing vineyards, and added more. The magnificent architecture and scale of some of the wineries we visit shouts “low costs, cheap labour”. For example Atamisque in the Uco Valley is an 800 hectare property with 70 hectares planted. A Frenchman bought the land with a small amount of existing plantings in 2006 and put in more vines, built a 600,000 litre capacity winery designed

for gravity feed vinification, a golf course, small luxury lodge, a trout farm, restaurant, and his home, where he lives part of the year. On each day we visit three wineries, touring the vineyards, tasting a range of wines and at the final stop enjoy a multi course degustation lunch paired with wines. At two of the wineries the tastings encompass sensory perception. At Pulenta we blind “sniff ”: a series of wine glasses with a sample of something typically described in wine: coffee, cloves, cut grass, butter, orange peel, tobacco and so on. We then go on to smell and taste the wines, looking for the same aromas. At Dominio del Plata we taste wines alongside small tastes of food representing bitter (grilled eggplant), sweet (dulce de leche), creamy (cream cheese), and salty (salted churros). The varietals we taste include Chardonnay, Torrontes, which is another surprise we grow to love, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, of course lots of Malbec. You know some things just aren’t going to work before you even taste them, but there are surprises. But what does work is this style of wine tourism – personalised, knowledgeable and friendly service in beautiful wineries. And of course, some great wines.

Bev with her partner Scott Wilson at a taste matching exercise at Dominio del Plata

WINEPRESS November 2014

SB Celebration Tessa Nicholson

The committee has been selected, the dates have been set and the name of the event has been confirmed.The International Sauvignon Blanc Celebration 2016 is on its way. As mentioned in earlier editions of Winepress, the very first international event, celebrating New Zealand’s most popular varietal will be held here in Marlborough in just over 14 months time. While based in this part of the country, it won’t be entirely focused on Marlborough wines, with every region producing Sauvignon encouraged to take part in the celebration. The committee, currently working on the event is made up of representatives from some of the country’s most renowned producers. Those members are; • Patrick Materman – Pernod Ricard NZ – Chair • Blair Gibbs – Spy Valley • Brian Bicknell – Mahi • Roscoe Johansen – Giesen

WINEPRESS November 2014

• Mike Brown – Tohu • Ivan Sutherland – Dog Point • Kat Wiggens – Seresin • Damien Yvon – Clos Henri • Ruud Maasdam – Staete Landt The committee will be supported by members of NZW’s marketing team and Wine Marlborough. Chair Patrick Materman says the event will be held over two and a bit days, from February 1 to 3, 2016, and is likely to attract up to 300 people. Many of those will be international visitors, invited by either NZW or individual wineries, much along the same lines as the Pinot Noir Celebration. It will also be open to the public. While confirmation of the themes has yet to be finalised, he said the committee has already come up with

a number of ideas. From the history of the variety in New Zealand, to sustainability, style diversity, regionality, and age ability of the variety, the event will include international guest speakers, a variety of seminars as well as tastings. The wider Marlborough region will also get a major boost from the Celebration, with lunches and dinners planned for a variety of different venues during the event. With dates, name and basic programme confirmed, Patrick says the next big task is to get the story of the celebration out to the international wine world. A website promoting the event is being set up.

Cricket and Wine Marlborough’s wines are likely to be bowling maiden overs, at next year’s International Cricket World Cup, with Matua Wines signing up as the event’s partner. With the tag line, “New Zealand’s 1st Sauvignon Blanc” in reference to the Spence Brothers who first planted the variety in Auckland, Matua wines will be poured at all 23 ICC Cricket World Cup matches held here in New Zealand. The world cup is touted as the third most watched sporting event in the world, with the 2015 Cup being played in both Australia and New Zealand. It kicks off on February 14, with Sri Lanka versus New Zealand being played in Christchurch. (On the same day Australia play England in a day/night match in Melbourne). For Matua, the partnership with the Cricket World Cup is a bit of a dream, especially for chief winemaker Nikolai St George, who is a self-confessed cricket fan. “For New Zealand to co-host one of the world’s most watched sporting events is truly exciting and for Matua to be a part of it offers an unprecedented opportunity to get some of New Zealand’s most awarded wines in front of a local and global audience”. Expect to see a lot from Matua during the build up, as the company will have the opportunity to leverage the event across a number of cup activities. “The ICC Cricket World Cup will be a key feature of our marketing support in the coming months and will focus on all of our wines, from the Regional Brand through to Lands & Legends and our Single Vineyard range,” Nikolai said.

Battlefield Tactics: Timing is everything Protectorhml and HML 32: armour plate for grapes

Inflorescences Spray Programme Timing of HML 32 flowering sprays for powdery mildew and botrytis control: The timing of these sprays has powdery mildew as the target and collects botrytis efficacy as a consequence. HML 32 alone deals direct to botrytis, but the addition of sulphur and copper deals a blow to microscopic powdery mildew both preventively and eradicatively. Powdery mildew is a major pre-cursor disease to the onset of botrytis.

Just before inflorescences open HML 32 + sulphur + copper.

Inflorescences open to 80% capfall Give nature a chance to deliver the best yield or, if desired, use another botrytis product at this growth stage.

80% capfall HML 32 + sulphur + copper.

Protectorhml and HML 32: armour plate for grapes Contact your Farmlands representative. For more information / field trial results visit: www. henrymanufacturing.co.nz

WINEPRESS November 2014

Gateway To Global Career In Grapes Marlborough’s viticulture industry wants local students to see its industry as a gateway to a global career. Marlborough Boys’ and Girls’ Colleges, as well as the Nelson/Marlborough Institute of Technology (NMIT) are in the discussion phase of developing a viticulture/wine-making pathway through a Marlborough School of Viticulture starting at Year 12 and with the potential to complete it with an under-graduate degree. This is part of the Vocational Pathways programme developed by the Ministry of Education’s Youth Guarantee team, whereby students frame their school subjects in one or more of six sectors or industries to ensure that what they are learning at school will be a stepping stone to a career or further study. Primary Industries Pathway “When students study subjects in areas which are relevant and interesting to them, then they are much more likely to stay at school and remain engaged with their learning”, says Arthur Graves, the Ministry of Education’s Group Manager for Youth Guarantee. Also involved in discussions are members of the viticulture and winemaking industry including Wine Marlborough. Marlborough Boys College Assistant Principal James Ryan says: “We are looking at Marlborough in context. Marlborough is internationally renowned for its wine. Many of our

WINEPRESS November 2014

students in the area live on vineyards and have families involved in the industry. We are looking at ways our school leavers can be in the best place to take advantage of the local labour market. Wine runs through this town. There should be employment for every school leaver. “I’ve spoken to a few big growers and they are excited by the prospect of better links between education and industry. These conversations are the first step to getting industry to think about how they can really support Vocational Pathways.” Marlborough Mayor Alastair Sowman agrees industry support is vital for the Primary Industries viticultural pathway to bear fruit. “With more than 75% of New Zealand’s wine production happening here in Marlborough, viticulture is one of our big industries and it is in the interests of the industry and the wider region to help our school leavers see the opportunities presented by this sector. “Of course there is the seasonal labour demand with pruning and harvest but there are also very many other roles ranging from lab work to vineyard management, specialised viticultural and engineering jobs and financial and business management positions and wineries often have to look far afield to

fill these roles. “In terms of our regional development strategy we want to see a workforce with more qualifications and higher skills levels and I am very pleased to see this opportunity to address that need,” says Alastair. The plan is to look at all jobs on a vineyard from engineering to hospitality, working with industry to get the skills and workers needed. Aligning the skills with potential job opportunities in viticulture will be underway before 2016 and while planning is still being done, real progress will be made by early 2015. James believes creating a clear pathway for students is key to meeting targets of improving rates of NCEA Level 2 achievement and keeping young people in education. In 2013 45 percent of the College’s boys who achieved university entrance, actually went to university. “Boys work best with clear avenues forward,” says James. “What we are doing is creating a link so that the boys know what is open to them. They do not have to take the pathway, but boys’ in particular need that obvious roadmap. This line of sight does not exclude young people from following other pathways, but provides them with the broad foundation skills and knowledge to succeed.”

hannah ar

mstrong ‫‏‬ @h_g_ armstron #Marlbor g ou O sub-region gh Wine Show com ct 6 al differen p aring ces up next @ winemarlb #Sauvignons orough #n #Steward ing zwine The best from the last month. tt ‫@‏‬ Juliet Abbo 18 Dog Point Wines ‫@‏‬ tt Oct tAnnAbbo y e li Ju a DogPointWines Oct 22 @CloudyB t e v a h n ‫@‏‬ to re Magic day in Marlborough for Pleasu Belinda Jackso t 8 the fun yach r fo a il o O V c our #decadeofdogpoint tasting @ on board aBoating @ ineBelindaNZ ugh w W a ik a W @ arlboro nzwine @winemarlborough ace yacht race. oohoo! @winem kshop: h @WineR W g u ro o b rl a ia Wor winem offering a Med s for Marlborough Express ‫‘ @‏‬Being in the new 0 Oct. MarlboroughMEX Oct 13 the right reasons’ 3 sign @ ‫‏‬ s e in please use W Meet the new team - new members Winemakers Mud Ho ine Oct 21 seW elected to Wine Marlborough board @ up! MudHou nted and la p winemarlborough http://www.stuff. u l - Rim ine It’s officia Kaipupu #nzw ugh @ co.nz/marlborough-express/your# ro to o t lb s r a a to m e a marlborough/10615273/Meet-thein ship @w #partner ghMEX new-team … u Marlboro kaikoura che kaikourache ese ‫@‏‬ AA Traveller favorited your Tweet Oct 22: ese Oct 3 heading to @ Marlborough Have you voted yet? Our beloved @ _ N Looking for a Z @winemarlbo . MarlboroughFest is on the @WeLoveNZ rough to match our new washed Must-Do’s today.Win a trip to the rind #theharnett # artisanmarket #marlwinefest! http://www.aatravel. #farmersmark etsee you ther co.nz/101/competition/ … e.

Top Tweets

Liza Fletcher ‫@‏‬NZUKLink Oct 16 @NZWine_Europe @ winemarlborough A lot of enqs here in London - hope you get some good apps!

Nicky Grandorge ‫@‏‬ NickyGrandorge Oct 5 Great @nzwine section in Harrods @ winemarlborough @WineHawkesBay Opportunity for more great NZ varietals too perhaps?

WINEPRESS November 2014

Wine Export Summary Moving Annual Total September 2014 Country Litres $FOB UK 54,323,226 331,305,014 USA 50,244,636 330,004,286 Australia 53,928,499 370,787,522 Canada 8,157,492 81,228,092 Netherlands 4,865,203 32,356,641 Denmark 997,484 7,146,150 Ireland 2,098,983 15,324,364 Japan 1,121,147 12,307,431 Germany 2,655,336 14,055,475 China 1,750,388 23,565,314 Hong Kong 1,373,080 17,054,647 Singapore 1,583,685 21,023,642 Finland 262,864 2,292,640 Norway 364,941 2,978,367 Sweden 1,606,076 13,209,194 Others 6,136,374 56,945,238 TOTAL 191,469,414 1,331,584,017

Moving Annual Total September 2013 Country UK USA Australia Canada Netherlands Denmark Ireland Japan Germany China Hong Kong Singapore Finland Norway Sweden Others TOTAL

Litres 48,104,472 43,928,186 50,005,402 7,479,504 4,171,979 784,557 2,228,031 1,218,476 1,960,234 1,863,858 1,430,211 1,383,901 206,424 209,087 1,614,758 5,263,341 171,852,421

WINEPRESS November 2014

$FOB 284,046,176 294,953,636 372,682,499 79,493,519 28,314,753 5,929,166 16,283,649 14,526,581 11,114,139 22,919,137 18,875,760 17,934,492 1,791,262 1,601,684 13,548,035 50,944,277 1,234,958,765

Book Review

The Vintner’s Table, Stories, wine and recipes from Pegasus Bay Winery. The Donaldson Family. Random House NZ, RRP $65.00. Reviewed by Tessa Nicholson There can be few wine loving people who have not tried Pegasus Bay wines. The same can be said about visiting the Pegasus Bay cellar door and restaurant. For each and every one of them, this is the ideal book. Filled to the brim with photos, it looks back at the path the Donaldson’s took from visiting European wine growing regions, to establishing their own label, winery and later restaurant. Readers get the chance to know the family, with vignettes telling their individual stories. But the real star of the show is the recipes included within. More than 80 of them have been offered up by chefs that have cut their teeth at Pegasus Bay. These are many of the recipes that have helped make the restaurant a star in its own right. For six years the restaurant was judged top of category in the Cuisine magazine restaurant of the year, and this year gained a Cuisine Good Food coveted “chef ’s hat”. With the recipes sectioned into seasonal chapters, they are easy to follow and tantalisingly appealing. If there is one negative, it is that the photos of each individual dish often are carried in the centre of the book, which means many are cut in half due to the spine. Despite that, it is a book that you can’t help but pick up, learn something from and be inspired by.

Wine Happenings A monthly list of events within the Marlborough wine industry. To have your event included in next month’s calendar please email details to tessa.nicholson@me.com

November 8

Marlborough Wine Show Awards Dinner - Blenheim

Toast Martinborough, Martinborough

18 – 19:

ASVO Seminar, Inputs to Outputs; Is Less More? – Adelaide More details at http://asvoadelaideseminar. wordpress.com/

Wine Marlborough AGM – MRC Theatre, 4pm.

Air New Zealand Wine Awards Dinner - Hawke’s Bay

Air New Zealand Wine Awards Regional Tasting - Marlborough

DECEMBER 6

The Christchurch/South Island Wine and Food Festival - Christchurch

JANUARY 3 29 – 31

Cromwell Wine and Food Festival – Cromwell, Central Otago Central Otago Pinot Noir Celebration 2015

FEBRUARY 14

Marlborough Wine and Food Festival featuring The Black Seeds

GREAT FOOD, GREAT WINES AND GREAT FRIENDS COME TOGETHER AT HERZOG’S! Come and enjoy Marlborough’s stunning days and join us for casual dining in the beautiful Bistro or indulge at the Gourmet Restaurant! All for the love of wine! And for all you wine aficionados, come and indulge in one of New Zealand’s largest International wine lists!

BISTRO - 7 DAYS A WEEK! LUNCH: 12pm - 3pm DINNER: From 6pm - late

RESTAURANT - WED TO SUN DINNER: From 7pm - late

CELLAR DOOR MON TO FRI: 9am to 5pm WEEKENDS: 11am to 4pm

WINEPRESS November 2014

News From Home and Away Accolades International Wine Show Trophies Sauvignon Blanc – Cable Station Road 2014 Pinot Gris – Dashwood 2014 Gewurztraminer – Cicada 2013 Sweet Wine – Villa Maria Reserve Noble Riesling Botrytis Selection 2012 Champion Commercial White Wine – Charles Wiffen Chardonnay 2013 New World Wine Awards Champion White Wine – The King’s Bastard 2013 International Aromatic Wine Competition Supreme Champion Wine – and Champion Gewurztraminer – Lawson’s Dry Hills 2013 Champion Sauvignon Blanc –The Fuder Matthew Lane Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Champion Other Aromatic – Yealands Estate Single Vineyard Gruner Veltliner 2014 Champion Pinot Gris – Wither Hills 2014 Champion Sweet Wine Giesen Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2012. 30th Anniversary There are only a handful of wineries in Marlborough that can celebrate having 30 or more vintages, and Cloudy Bay is one of them. This year marked their 30th vintage of Sauvignon Blanc, which was launched in style, (see next story). It makes the company one of the oldest in the region, but as winemaker Nick Lane said at the launch of the wine, 30 is a drop in the busket when it comes to wine

companies in Europe. However very few companies, regardless of where in the world they are based, could match Cloudy Bay for renown and popularity – the fact they have achieved that in just three decades, makes their story even more special.

Launching in Style In a novel move, Cloudy Bay launched their 2014 Sauvignon Blanc via a pop up bar overlooking Auckland’s Viaduct. The outdoor space Cloudy Bay Wine Bar @ The Foodstore was open throughout October and allowed guests to indulge their inner sommelier by tasting various Cloudy Bay wines, alongside gourmet food. The Foodstore’s executive chef Mark Southon served his tribute to Marlborough seafood with culinary creations such as crab salad with celeriac & apple verjus jelly, perfectly matched to Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2014. “Anyone who has been to the Marlborough region knows it is an experience like no other and now there is a global thirst for our homegrown wine. The Cloudy Bay Wine Bar pays tribute to this and lets urban wine enthusiasts get a slice of Marlborough’s best, right here in Auckland city,” says Rai Banbury, Cloudy Bay senior brand manager.

New CEO for ITO The Primary Industry Training Organisation – ITO – has a new Chief Executive. Mark Jeffries has 27 years experience in the Australian and New Zealand primary industries, bringing a vast amount of industry knowledge with him. He says the need to increase the skill level across the sector was highlighted by a Ministry of Primary Industries report titled ‘People Powered’. “The People Powered report states that Government wants to double New Zealand’s primary sector exports by 2025, and we need over 50,000 more skilled people to achieve this goal. This is where we step in,” Mark says. “As the ITO for the primary industry it is our role to deliver the knowledge, practical skills, confidence and business expertise people need to meet the demands of the global export market.”

CLASSIFIEDS Contract Winemaking, Bottling & Warehousing - Pask Winery, Hastings has contract winemaking and/or bottling and warehousing available. Dejuicing, fermentation, maturation and wine preparation for bottling available. A new bottling facility is available for 375ml, 750ml and 1.5l bottles under screwcap closure – small and large runs can be accommodated – give us a call! All enquiries to Russell Wiggins, ph. 027 2928116 or info@pask.co.nz

Disclaimer: The views and articles that are expressed and appear in Winepress are those entirely those of contributors and in no way reflect the policy of the Marlborough Winegrowers. Any advice given, implied or suggested should be considered on its merits, and no responsibility can be taken for problems arising from the use of such information.

WINEPRESS November 2014

McAlpines Roundwood Limited

Suppliers of

Quality Roundwood Contact:

Grant Cathcart Phone 03 313 8339 Fax 03 313 3767 Mobile 021 511 460

roundwood@mcalpines.co.nz

PROVINCIAL

COLDSTORES LIMITED LET US TAKE CARE OF ALL YOUR CONTROLLED TEMPERATURE STORAGE REQUIREMENTS IN OUR

 CUSTOM CONTROLLED AREA  APPROVED TRANSITIONAL FACILITY FOR UNLOADING OF IMPORTED CONTAINERS • Over 60,000 cubic metres of storage spread over two sites • Chilled storage available during vintage for handpicked grapes • Sophisticated monitoring equipment ensures your product is kept at the optimum temperature • We could lease you a small room for your exclusive use to suit your partic ular temperature requirements (0°C to +30°C) • We store bottled wine, barrels of wine, new plants awaiting the opportune time to plant • Individual rooms available which are being used to grow new budwood

Old Renwick Road, Blenheim. Tel: 03 5782648 Fax: 03 5782546 Gouland Road, Spring Creek. Tel: 03 5705944 Fax 03 5705955

Lex Thomson B.Vit & Oen. is available to assist the winegrower. Services include: • Viticulture consultation and vineyard management. • Pruning and training workshops. • Pest and disease monitoring. • Assistance with SWNZ scorecards, audits and the associated record keeping. • Irrigation audits. • Yield assessments. • Fruit maturity sampling. • Specialised pruning. Visit www.vitpractice.co.nz for details about our full range of viticulture services. Ph: 021 230 2348. Email: lexthomson@vitpractice.co.nz

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