Winepress - October 2015

Issue No. 252 / October 2015

ISBC Update

Quake Insurance

Vakameasina Programme

Sparkling Sauvignon

Photo: Jim Tannock

@marlboroughwine

The Official Magazine of

www.wine-marlborough.co.nz

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In this issue...

Regulars

Features

3

9

Editorial

6 Report Tasman Crop Met 31

Top Tweets

32

NZW Export News

ANZ Wine Happenings

35

News From Home and Away

Editor: Tessa Nicholson 16 Bank Street Blenheim 7201 T: 021 709 571 E: tessa.nicholson@me.com

WINEPRESS is printed with vegetable oil based inks on elemental chlorine free paper which is sourced 100% from well managed forests and manufactured under ISO 14001 Environmental Management Systems.

p19

Monitoring Report The annual MPI and NZW viticulture monitoring report is out and shows Marlborough growers’ profit is well down on last year. But optimism is up.

Find out why.

15 To The Bay and Back

After years of wine industry personnel struggling to get up and back to Hawke’s Bay, one local airline has taken matters into their own hands. From the end of this month, Sounds Air will be offering travellers a direct flight to and from Napier, six times a week.

p21

22 Méthode

Marlborough On The Label

Printed by: Blenheim Print Ltd. T: 03 578 1322

In August 2013 Marlborough was rocked by two major earthquakes. The second caused up to $100 million worth of damage to the wine industry. So what does the insurance world feel we have learned from those events?

12 Viticulture

34

Two Years After The Quakes

Two years on since forming, Méthode Marlborough is taking hold. One winery is the first to place the title on its newly released wine. For Daniel Le Brun of No 1 Family Estate, it has been a long time coming.

p24 WINEPRESS October 2015 | 1

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GRAFTING HAS STARTED ORDER NOW

For Advertising contact: Ph: 03 577 9299 Web: www.wine-marlborough.co.nz harriet@wine-marlborough.co.nz Produced by: Wine Marlborough Free to all levy paying members Associate Members: $77 +GST

Wine Marlborough Board Clive Jones: cjones@nautilusestate.com Ben Ensor: ben.lisa@clear.net.nz Callum Linklater: callumandsarah@xtra.co.nz Jack Glover: jack.glover@accolade-wines.co.nz Jason Yank: jason@astrolabewines.com Nick Entwistle: nick@wairauriverwines.co.nz Rhyan Wardman: rhyan@giesen.co.nz Samantha Wickham: samantha@ormondnurseries.co.nz

From the Editor It was 11 years ago that I took over the reins as Editor of Winepress, from the much loved David Barnsley. In that time I have seen Marlborough’s vineyards increase in size from 8500 hectares to 23,000. In 2004 we were producing 48 percent of the country’s grapes – now we produce a massive 75 percent.

The plantings have expanded into the Awatere Valley and beyond, out to Rarangi, up the Waihopai and way up the Wairau Valley.

The export value of New Zealand’s wine has grown from $302,599 in 2004 to $1.4 billion today, on the back of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.

This region accounts for almost $1.1 billion of that export value.

The accolades continue to pour in and Marlborough is now acknowledged as one of the world’s renowned wine producing regions.

The past 11 years haven’t always been a walk in the park.You only need to think about the ramifications of 2008/09 and the impact of the global financial crisis to understand what I mean.

But all in all, it has been a period of exponential and exciting growth.

Being the Editor of Winepress for all that time has been an incredible privilege.

But it is now time for me to hand over the reins to someone else.

I would be lying to say that I won’t be sad to say goodbye to this wonderful mag. It has been a huge part of my life for over a decade, and has brought me face to face with the many wonderful industry people who give their all to Marlborough wine.

But I leave you in the very capable hands of Sophie Preece, who you can meet on page 19.

And it is not actually a final goodbye, as I will continue to write all about wonderful Marlborough as Editor of the national magazine, NZ Winegrower.

I am not the only person moving on this month. Four members of the board of Wine Marlborough are also hanging up their hats.

Ruud Maasdam (a board member for 15 years!), Guy Lissaman, Simon Clark and Laurin Gane have stepped down from the board after years of service. It is only appropriate that I thank them on your behalf for all they have done.

Their replacements as voted by you the members bring a new wealth of knowledge to the board. So it is not only welcome to Sophie as Winepress Editor, but also to new board members. Representing growers, Ben Ensor and Callum Linklater. Representing wineries; Tom Trolove from Framingham and Nick Entwhistle from Wairau River.

Simon Bishell: simonbishell@outlook.com Stuart Dudley: stuartd@villamaria.co.nz Tom Trolove: tom.trolove@framingham.co.nz

TESSA NICHOLSON tessa.nicholson@me.com

WINEPRESS October 2015 | 3

From The NZW Board Chairman Steve Green Earlier this year many of you voted on the referendum, on whether or not to reform our industry organisations.You overwhelmingly endorsed the changes proposed by your board. Thank you for that support. It has provided the platform for the Board to keep moving ahead on this issue.

The Board has now agreed to the next steps in the reform process. We have formed the new entity, supported by the referendum, New Zealand Winegrowers Inc and adopted the rules that have been outlined to you.

We will now submit our application for incorporation with the register of Incorporated Societies. Then if all goes according to plan, New Zealand Winegrowers Inc will commence operations on July 1, 2016.

That will be a momentous day for our organisation. It will be a momentous day for our industry and for each and every grape grower and winemaker.

July 1st 2016 will mark the final step in the process of bringing the industry organisations together into one unified, cohesive body to represent and promote the interests of the entire New Zealand wine and grape industry.

However there is one critical step in this process that you need to take. That is you the growers, the winemakers of New Zealand who have built this industry into the success that it is, need to approve the levy orders that provide the funding for NZW Inc. The levy orders that are currently in place provide funding for the Grape Growers Council and the Wine Institute, which then in turn funds Winegrowers. Under the proposed new levy orders, that funding will go direct to NZW Inc. We will then be able to disestablish the Council and the Institute.

4 | WINEPRESS October 2015

Voting on the levy orders will be held in October. So we then have time to work with MPI to bring them into force prior to July 1, next year. The levy orders that will be voted on reflect the proposal that was put to you, the members, in the referendum earlier this year. That means basically the levy orders remain in place exactly as they are currently with the following exceptions.

• The organisation receiving the levy money will be NZW • The minimum levy payment for wineries will be removed • A maximum levy payment will be introduced for grapes sold • The maximum payment paid by large wineries will be reduced along with a parallel reduction in their voting power when it comes to electing to the board.

So how will you vote? I have been struck by a comment on a recent survey the board undertook – where the member said; “I can’t say yes because I don’t know what the alternative is.”

Fair enough comment. So what is the alternative?

Well from my perspective it is the fact that we are not unified.

The alternative is that you would no longer get all the information that you are currently provided with. Each of us would need to go and source that information ourselves. Such things as the winemaking practice guide, the labeling guide and the spray schedule.

There would be no average grape price data.

We would not have the Romeo Bragato Conference. There would be no Air NZ Wine Awards.

No inbound media and trade programme. No industry funded research programme and no support for

export certification.

There would be no one to lobby government on market access issues and the sale of liquor issues. No one focused on the vision of the customs and excise tax. No industry voice on RMA issues.

No cohesive voice requesting improved controls on bulk wine exports. No one advocating on so many issues on behalf of every single grower and winery in New Zealand.

There would be no funding of regional winegrowing organisations, no support for Organic Winegrowers. No MOU with the Nursery Association and no grant for grapevine standards.

I am not saying that NZW is perfect.

We are not and we never will be.

But what I do know is the New Zealand wine industry is far better off with a unified focused and efficient organisation, acting for and on behalf of you, than without it.

I know this for a simple reason. NZW is focused on protecting and building the reputation of New Zealand wine, to the benefit of every grower and winery in New Zealand.

That reputation is the future for each of us. Without it New Zealand wine would be just another uneconomic commodity in an ocean of low priced, low quality, undifferentiated wine.

That is no future for you and no future for me.

So when the levy vote comes around in October, vote yes.

Vote yes to the levy and you will be voting for an investment in the success of your own future.

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Table 1: Blenheim Weather Data – September 2015

September September 2015 September Period September

2015 compared to LTA of LTA 2014 LTA GDD’s for month – Max/Min¹ 28.0 49% 56.9 (1996-2014) 63.9 GDD’s for month – Mean² 43.9 62% 70.4 (1996-2014) 68.3 Growing Degree Days Total Jul – Sep 15 – Max/Min 57.4 68% 84.9 (1996-1014) 82.9 Jul - Sep 15 – Mean 103.6 80% 128.8 (1996-2014) 123.9 Mean Maximum (°C) 14.6 -1.7°C 16.3 (1986-2014) 16.5 Mean Minimum (°C) 4.8 -1.2°C 6.0 (1986-2014) 7.0 Mean Temp (°C) 9.7 -1.4°C 11.1 (1986-2014) 11.8 Ground Frosts (<= -1.0°C) 6 1.4 more 4.6 (1986-2014) 2 Air Frosts (0.0°C) 2 1.2 more 0.8 (1986-2014) 0 Sunshine hours 225.3 117% 193.0 (1930-2014) 196.7 Sunshine hours – lowest 129.6 1989 Sunshine hours – highest 248.9 2011 Sunshine hours total – 2015 1696.2 113% 1745.0 (1930-2014) 1741.8 Rainfall (mm) 54.4 107% 51.2 (1930-2014) 41.0 Rainfall (mm) – lowest 3.0 1951 Rainfall (mm) – highest 191.5 1943 Rainfall total (mm) – 2015 355.4 72% 490.3 (1930-2014) 448.5 Evapotranspiration – mm 71.1 99% 72.0 (1996-2014) 66.7 Avg. Daily Wind-run (km) 251.2 89% 283.0 (1996-2014) 247.4 Mean soil temp – 10cm 8.4 -0.8°C 9.2 (1986-2014) 10.2 Mean soil temp – 30cm 10.3 -0.4°C 10.7 (1986-2014) 11.6 ¹GDD’s Max/Min are calculated from absolute daily maximum and minimum temperatures ²GDD’s Mean are calculated from average hourly temperatures

September 2015 in summary The weather in September 2015 was cool and sunny, with average rainfall and lower than average wind-run.

Temperature The mean temperature for September 2015 was 9.7°C, 1.4°C below average. The average daily maximum

Table 2: Weekly temperatures during September 2015

Mean Max Mean Min Mean

(°C) (°C) (°C) 1st - 7th 14.1 5.1 9.6 8th - 14th 13.9 3.0 8.5 15th - 21st 16.7 5.9 11.3 22nd - 28th 13.6 5.6 9.6 29th – 30th (2 days) 16.8 2.7 9.8 1st – 30th 14.7 (-1.6°C) 4.8 (-1.2) 9.7 (-1.4°C) Long-term average (1986 – 2014) 16.3 6.0 11.1 Temperatures - Red indicates warmer than average, blue indicates cooler than average 6 | WINEPRESS October 2015

temperature of 14.6°C was 1.7°C below average and the average daily minimum temperature of 4.8°C was 1.2°C below average.

The first, second and fourth weeks of September were all well below average.

Only the third week was slightly above average. September 2015 was much cooler than in any of the previous 17 years (1998-2014). We have to go back to September 1997 to find a cooler monthly mean temperature, of 9.4°C. Growing degree days With the cool temperatures in September, the growing degree-days got off to a very slow start for the new season. Only 28 GDDs (Max/ Min) were recorded in September, on par with September 2011. Figure 1 indicates that the GDD line for September 2015 has followed a similar course to 1997 and 2011. However, the 1997-98 and 2011-12 seasons were vastly different in their outcomes.

While both 1997 and 2011 were cool in September and October the GDD lines went in opposite directions from November onwards. 1997-98 was warm in November and December and then hot in the new-year. The 201112 season remained cool for all eight months September 2011 to April 2012.

The question is, in which direction will the GDD line head for the 2015-16 season?

Current El Nino Climate scientists from NIWA have stated that “El Nino is virtually certain (99% chance) to continue over the next three months “By many measures, the current event is tracking close to the 1997/98 El Niño (the strongest since 1950), and is

Figure 1: Normalized Growing degree days for Blenheim: days above (+) or below (-) the long-term average for the period 1 September to 30 April

expected to intensify further over the next 3 months. For October - December 2015, above normal pressure is forecast to the north and west of New Zealand, while below normal pressure is expected to the east and south of the country. This circulation pattern is likely to be accompanied by anomalous southwesterly wind flows - a signature of El Niño conditions”. NIWA reference New Zealand Climate Update No 195, September 2015 and Seasonal Climate Outlook October – December 2015.

Three of the strongest El Nino years on record since 1970 have been: 1972-73, 1982-83 and 1997-98. I thought that it would be interesting to take a look at the temperature and rainfall records for Blenheim over these past El Nino events. This may give us a heads up with regard to what we may expect in the coming months.

I think that most people’s perception of El Nino is warmer and drier weather. If that is the case, then why

Table 3: Past El Nino years – Temperature and rainfall in Blenheim over the growing season

Long-term average 1972-73 1982-83 1997-98 (1930-2014)

Temp Rain Temp Rain Temp Rain Temp Rain

°C mm °C mm °C mm °C mm Sep 10.7 51.2 12.7 15.0 9.9 60.0 9.4 50.1 Oct 12.7 57.2 13.6 67.0 11.0 24.0 13.6 26.5 Nov 14.6 47.4 16.6 11.0 16.9 22.0 15.6 9.8 Dec 16.7 48.5 15.7 13.0 15.8 36.0 17.2 22.3 Jan 17.9 48.6 18.4 23.0 17.6 36.0 19.1 19.3 Feb 17.8 43.4 17.7 1.0 16.6 1.0 20.7 46.5 Mar 16.2 43.5 16.7 36.0 17.6 27.0 18.2 46 Apr 13.4 53.2 13.5 24.0 13.5 115.0 14.1 22 Mean / 15.0 393 15.6 190 14.9 321 16.0 242.5 Total +0.6 49% -0.1 82% +1.0 62% Temperatures - Red indicates warmer than average, blue indicates cooler than average Rainfall – Red indicates drier than average, blue indicates wetter than average

was September 2015 so much cooler than average? Table 3 indicates that September 1982 and September 1997 were both much cooler than average, with similar mean temperatures to September 2015. However, September 1997 was the only month of the 1997-98 season to record a below average mean temperature. The seven months October 1997 to April 1998 were all warmer than average. The three months January to March 1998 recorded a mean temperature of 19.3°C; 2.0°C above the long-term average.

Many people will remember the very warm temperatures over the period of berry ripening prior to the 1998 harvest. There were comments in the wine media after the 1998 vintage that Marlborough Sauvignon blanc lacked the typical Marlborough characteristics, and many people put this down to the very warm night time temperatures when the fruit was ripening, leading to lower acidity. With 18 years of further viticultural experience in Marlborough since 1998, I think the industry has a much better understanding of viticultural management tools that can be used to manage both variations in temperature and rainfall.

The data in Table 3 indicate that El Nino seasons can bring either cooler or warmer temperatures. Most months in the 1982-83 season recorded below average temperatures; the exceptions being November 1982 and March 1983 which were well above average.

There is an acknowledgment that El Nino brings a higher prevalence of Westerly winds. However, from what I have read, if the winds are from the south-west they tend to be cooler, bringing air up from the sub-Antarctic, whereas if the winds are from the north-west they tend to bring warmer air from Australia. If as NIWA suggest the winds over the next few months are from a south-westerly direction, then I would expect temperatures to remain cooler than average. So that would probably bring temperatures similar to

WINEPRESS October 2015 | 7

1982-83, not warmer as in 1997-98.

What the rainfall data in Table 3 clearly indicate is that in these three previous strong El Nino’s, monthly rainfall in Blenheim was consistently below average. Notwithstanding the very high rainfall in April 1983.

Frosts September 2015 recorded six ground frosts and two air frosts. The coldest morning in Blenheim was Monday 21 September, which recorded a ground frost of -2.9°C and an air frost of -0.1°C Sunshine September 2015 recorded 225.3 sunshine hours; Total sunshine for the first nine months of 2015 are 1969.2 hours. This is 224.2 hours ahead of the long-term average; or put another way, the 273 days from 1 January to 30 September 2015, have each received on average, an extra 49 minutes of sunshine. All this extra sunshine has helped ensure that Blenheim is still

Battlefield Tactics Defend Flowering Eradicate Insurgents

leading the race for sunniest town in New Zealand, in 2015. Our nearest rival, Whakatane, was trailing by 33.4 hours at the end of September.

However, 33 hours of sunshine is only three sunny days, so let’s hope the clouds stay away in Blenheim. We might finally get our rightful title back, “sunniest town in New Zealand”, for the first time since 2008.

months recorded below average rainfall.

September was the second month in 2015 to have recorded above average rainfall.

Rob Agnew Plant & Food Research / Marlborough Research Centre

Wind Average daily wind-run for Blenheim during September 2015 was 251.2 km.

This was well below the long-term average of 283 km. Average daily wind speed was 10.5 km/hr compared to the long-term average of 11.8 km/hr.

Rainfall September 2015 rainfall total was 54.4 mm; 107% of the long-term average.

Total rainfall for January to September 2015 was 355.4 mm. This was 134.9 mm below the long-term average total of 490.3 mm. Seven of the nine

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Two Years After The Quakes TESSA NICHOLSON

The damage to this catwalk is typical of that suffered by wineries during the 2013 Seddon earthquake.

More than two years after the Seddon earthquakes, what has the wine industry learned? And how do those that insure against such events feel about the situation here in Marlborough?

Garry Mooney has been involved in insurance for more than 40 years and for 30 of those he has been a wine industry insurance specialist. The managing director of ICIB Insurance Brokers says wine is a unique industry and one that has no parallels with any other horticultural or agricultural sector. Particularly given so much of the industry is based here in Marlborough.

“Unlike other areas of horticulture or farming in New Zealand, which is spread throughout the country, the majority of your industry is right here in Marlborough. And even more of a concern is that roughly 60 percent of New Zealand’s wine production is centered within a very small area – Riverlands/Cloudy Bay Business Park.”

He’s not just talking about the wineries situated there, which include some of the country’s largest producers, but also the contract facilities, bottling plant and logistics companies. That is a massive exposure.

“Following the Christchurch earthquakes,” he says, “there was a lot of talk in the industry about what would happen if such an event occurred in Marlborough. We said we could provide as much insurance as people wanted, but the fact of the matter is, no matter what the payout would be, such an event could destroy the local wine industry and in turn the New Zealand wine industry.”

Even if wineries were able to get their

product out of the region after a major quake, where else in New Zealand could it go to be processed? As Garry says, there just isn’t the infrastructure available anywhere else that could cope with Marlborough’s production needs.

The Seddon quakes of 2013 were a wake-up call and while the damage to the wine industry was estimated at $100 million, he is concerned that some lessons haven’t been learned.

“Interestingly there is no earthquake standard within the wine industry.

And there is no standard under the building act that says tanks and catwalks have to be a certain standard. In the past tanks and catwalks have been manufactured too thin, based on cost.

The dairy industry learned from the Bay of Plenty earthquake in the ’80s when they suffered a huge amount of damage. They brought in new standards regarding the strength of tanks – but the wine industry hasn’t done that.”

There were large tank losses back in 2013 and those who have had to replace have done so with stronger ones, along with stronger plinths and catwalks. But Garry is concerned that there are still many wineries with older and weaker facilities that are likely to crumple in a reasonable jolt. And if you think it will be easy to insure against such an event, you may need to think again he says.

“Wineries are a very high value product, with a large number of risk factors. Not all insurers will touch

wine, currently there are only three that will write wineries. That is an indication of the risk factor.

“An example, is we are currently working on a multi million dollar wine company and we have gone to six insurers plus the London market – and we only have two quotes. That’s it.

And earthquake is the major risk.”

So what can be done about it? New buildings have earthquake standards and Garry says while the wine industry body is unlikely to impose standards for tanks and catwalks, there should be a push somewhere down the line for industry members to protect themselves.

He believes the development of a best practice standard would help shorten a business’s ability to recover in an overall context.

“The ongoing long tail effect of a major quake puts pressure and lead time availability on other specialist industries that have to supply. By that I mean stainless steel tank manufacturers, production or mass orders of specialised equipment from overseas suppliers, such as presses and filters and similar. These are often built to order, and do not exist as shelf stock.”

He admits that a best practice standard has to be a joint approach by the entire industry, rather than individual regions working autonomously.

“If the industry doesn’t take a proactive approach, insurers could start to dictate the standards which suit them more but at a higher cost to the industry.”

WINEPRESS October 2015 | 9

Let’s Tell Our Story TESSA NICHOLSON

Despite all the positives regarding mapping Marlborough’s vineyard area, many companies and individuals have yet to take action.

As at the middle of September, only 32 percent of the region’s vineyards had been added to the GIS digital mapping tool that has been provided by the Marlborough District Council. That equates to just over 7300 hectares of vines, rather than the 23,000 producing hectares in Marlborough.

The primary aim of the mapping project is to provide a visual marketing tool for the region.

Until now, the only visual tool available has been the MDC’s pink maps, that show where vines are planted. (See right). But that’s where those maps start and finish.

They do not show varietal mix, or different parcels of varieties within vineyards. There is no in-depth story included in the stark details.

They also don’t provide details that may be required in the case of a bio security threat. There is no potential for individuals to utilise the maps by overlaying terroir components of soil and climatic conditions.

The question has to be asked, why are so many of our larger companies not getting behind the scheme?

Nick Lane formerly of Cloudy Bay and Marcus Pickens from Wine Marlborough have been the instigators of the project for the past 12 months.

Nick says there seems to be a sense among some, that the information is intellectual property.

10 | WINEPRESS October 2015

“But that’s just plain silly,” he says.

“There is no I (intellectual) in this information. How can it be intellectual, when you can drive right up to a vineyard and kick the dirt? It is only a property and so many vineyards have a sign out front saying who takes the fruit or owns it anyway. And no one other than the wine company involved and Wine Marlborough can read the

details that a winery places on the map. But you can access your version of the map to tell your own story, to distributors, consumers and trade. It is a very powerful tool for those that have already added their material.”

One company that has mapped all their vineyards and is already starting to see the benefits, is Saint Clair Estate. Senior winemaker Hamish Clark says they had created earlier maps, using GPS details transferred onto mapping software.

But that does not provide anywhere near the detailed information that this current project does.

“We haven’t yet taken this to our markets, but it is in the pipeline. We want to utilise media technology including Google Flyover, which will allow us to hone in on particular vineyards and show the individual terroir that make each wine special,” he says. “There are a lot of pluses involved in this project, not just for us, but the region as a whole.”

He says some companies have expressed suspicion that the information will be used for the wrong reasons, such as aggressive wine companies being able to target individual vineyards for potential expansion.

“That was an early concern, but I think Nick and Marcus have done a good job at allaying those fears. There is complete privacy for all of us. We can only see our own block details, no one else’s.”

Given any development has to be recorded with the Marlborough District Council, all those pertinent details of who owns what are already in the public domain. Therefore the fear of opening your company details up to the rest of the world is not founded.

The mapping project though will provide more in-depth detail for Wine Marlborough, showing them variety and clonal mix, along with the year the vineyard was planted. These factors

will help the region tell its individual story in a far more thorough way than has been possible in the past.

So if you haven’t already done so – please get on to it now before the growing season really kicks off. This will be a major marketing tool for the region in the up-coming International Sauvignon Blanc Celebration. And there are other reasons why it is so important. Given Geographical Indications are to be implemented in the near future, these maps may become

It looks impressive already – imagine how it will look when the other 70% is added.

mandatory. There are also advantages should a bio security threat emerge.

“I realistically knew that this would take some time,” Nick says. “But it could go from 30 percent to 90 percent in just one month – and I really hope that

happens. It needs to happen now, well before the Sauvignon Blanc celebration.

There are no negatives only positives if everyone fills it in.”

WINEPRESS October 2015 | 11

12 | WINEPRESS October 2015

Marlborough’s Viticulture Monitoring Results TESSA NICHOLSON

The effects of the larger than average 2014 harvest impacted on Marlborough grape growers this year, according to the MPI/NZW Viticulture Monitoring report.

Given 2014 was a stellar year for growers around Marlborough, due to increased yields, it was inevitable that profits would be down in 2015.

However the actual drop was higher than most growers had predicted.

In Marlborough the profit before tax was reduced by 50 percent this year, when compared with 2014. That is a direct result of a 26 percent drop in yields.

There were a number of reasons for that yield drop – the impact of heavy crops last year, a number of frost events in late spring, cooler weather during flowering, significant powdery mildew pressure and the drought which affected berry size and bunch weights.

While yields this year were way down on the highs of 2014, they were actually quite close to the 2005-2014 long-term average, as shown above.

Wineries responded to the expected lower yields, by increasing the price paid for fruit – up five percent in 2015, a little more than had been predicted by growers.

The average price for fruit was $1810

Giesen Wines.

Photo supplied by NZW.

Year ended 30 June 2005-14 10 year

average Producing area (ha) 30 Total production1 (t) 329 Average production (t/ha) 11.0 Average return ($/t) 1 865 Sauvignon Blanc ($/t) 1 815 Net cash income ($) 619 300 Vineyard working expenses ($) 262 600 Vineyard profit before tax ($) 230 600 Vineyard surplus for reinvestment² ($) 165 000 EBIT/Total Capital (%) 4.8% across all varieties. Sauvignon Blanc averaged $1710, Pinot Noir (table) averaged $3220 and Riesling was $1785.

Both Chardonnay and Pinot Gris prices remained similar to 2014 figures.

In terms of expenditure, the Marlborough model shows working expenses were marginally higher this year. That has to be countered with the fact that after the 2014 vintage, there was a marked increase in vineyard working expenses – the first major increase since 2010. Weather also played a role in those expenses, with irrigation costs up significantly due to the drought. Marlborough vineyard

2010-14 2014 2015³ 5 year average 30 30 30 348 439 324 11.6 14.6 10.8 1 535 1 730 1 810 1 420 1 640 1 710 541 100 763 100 587 300 248 800 289 300 291 600 196 500 368 800 183 200 133 100 189 100 36 600 5.1% 8.7% 4.9%

irrigation costs increased 44 percent in 2015, when compared with the average of 2005-14.

While the smaller crop meant manipulation wasn’t a major cost for growers, they did face higher labour costs dealing with the impact of powdery mildew.

A number of growers involved in the model spent on new developments, which MPI says is “representative of some significant new development around the region.”

Looking ahead to 2016, the growers were keen to see a rise in prices paid for fruit.

“Many of the monitored contract growers mentioned that grape prices

WINEPRESS October 2015 | 13

were still generally flat and they would like an increase. With reduced 2015 yields and a supply deficit forecast, this is possible in 2016.”

Grower morale was positive with the growers generally optimistic about their business. The group is also looking towards improving business viability.

“The most significant of these is further new development including purchasing or leasing land or developed vineyards.

Nurseries are also reporting strong demand for grape vines, with a total of approximately 2500-3000 additional hectares planted in 2014 or planned for 2015. While a small amount of this is expected to be redevelopment of existing vineyard, it indicates an increase of at least five percent in national vineyard area.”

There were a few concerns expressed by the growers monitored though. Water availability, increased regulation around water use consents, labour availability, over reliance on Sauvignon Blanc and biosecurity border controls were all listed as concerns. But one of the greatest concerns was of the continued consolidation within the wine industry.

“Large companies are expanding and increasingly dominating both the supply and marketing sectors of the industry,” the report states. “Concerns are around the effect of such consolidation on grape prices, wine sale prices and brand perception of Marlborough wine. Some small to medium size wineries as well as individual growers see this consolidation as a threat to their business, moving Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc towards being a commodity that detracts from its premium position in the market.”

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The Marlborough Model It is based on 30 producing hectares, with data sourced from 31 vineyards, compared with 25 in 2014. Nine vineyards are located in the Awatere Valley and 22 vineyards in the Wairau Valley. There are 23 contract growers and eight winery-operated vineyards in the monitoring group. Four of the vineyards are 0 – 10 hectares, six are 10-20 hectares 11 are 20-50 hectares and 10 are 50 hectares or larger. Sauvignon Blanc is the dominant grape variety in the model, representing 74 percent of the producing area, followed by Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Riesling. Three vineyards out of the 31 are BioGro certified and two others have trial areas of organically grown grapes.

Nick Dalgety from MPI says they value this opportunity to work with New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) to monitor vineyard profitability in the two main grape growing regions.

“In 2016 gross margin assessment by variety expands into Gisborne, Marlborough and Central Otago. This should paint a fuller picture of geographical industry diversity. We hope that this initiative along with other collaborative action with NZW like the Lifestyle Wines programme will help keep New Zealand ahead of its competitors in the world wine market.”

To The Bay And Back TESSA NICHOLSON

Marlborough based airline Sounds Air will begin a new route later this month, that will make a lot in the wine industry very happy. The route will be Blenheim to Napier, return.

Andrew Crawford, Sounds Air Managing Director says the new route is a direct result of complaints from industry members about the current options available.

“A lot of people had moaned to us that the

wine industry was having trouble getting between the two regions,” Andrew says. “So we got thinking. We had some spare capacity on some days and thought maybe we could offer a route that would solve the problem.”

The end result is Sounds Air will fly Blenheim to Napier and then back, on Thursday and Friday mornings and night, up and back on Sunday night and up and back on Monday morning.

In total there will be six return flights,

geared to suit not only wine industry members, but also tourists.

Timing of the flights will allow people to make the most of the day, without any downtime.

“The problem with the situation currently is not only the cost of the flights, but also the cost in time. At the moment you have to

leave Blenheim at 7am but you are not in Hawke’s Bay until 10.30 or 11am. With this new route, you will leave Blenheim at 6.30 in the morning and be up there by 7.30. Coming home you leave at 5pm and will be back in Blenheim by 6pm. It gives both regions the chance to get there early, spend the entire day in the region and fly home in time for dinner.”

But the new timetable also means people can fly up on Monday morning and stay for four or five days, if they need to.

It is not the first new route introduced

by Sounds Air this year. They have also opened a Wellington to Westport flight and Wellington to Taupo. Both those routes are serviced by a Pilatus PC12 which seats nine people. The same aircraft will fly between Blenheim and Napier.

“They go very high and very fast,” Andrew says. “Overall the flight will be around 55 minutes.”

He expects initially at least, that the biggest take up of the new route will be from wine industry personnel in both regions, especially given how much overlapping there is between wineries in Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay. Later he says there is likely to be more tourists taking advantage of being able to move easily between New Zealand’s two largest wine regions.

Sounds Air whose base is in Blenheim, has a fleet of eight aircraft, and in 2015 is expected to transport nearly 100,000 people.

WINEPRESS October 2015 | 15

Sensory Room Delights TESSA NICHOLSON

Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology (NMIT) has added a new sensory room to its Marlborough campus, which will benefit both students and the local wine industry.

The room, which opened earlier this month, will offer something special to those students undertaking a Bachelor of Viticulture and Winemaking here in Marlborough. Up until now, any course component that required sensory analysis was undertaken in either classrooms, or the Plant and Food sensory room that is part of the Marlborough Research Centre.

Wine tutor David Hayward says neither has been very suitable.

“The sensory room that Plant and Food have is very focused on research, so the tables are facing the wall. It is basically for testing and analysing.

And in a classroom there is poor light and likely to be other smells that can affect sensory aspects. This new room though has wonderful natural light, it

16 | WINEPRESS October 2015

is orientated to learning and it has no distractions that might interfere with the senses.”

It is also a very large space, close to four times larger than the older sensory room, meaning it is suitable for larger groups of people. David says a prep room off the major space is one of the best he has encountered.

“The idea is if you are conducting a blind tasting, you can prepare in there.

Plus we do a lot of sensory trials for students where we add things to wine, or ask them to pick up certain sensory aspects within a wine, such as taints.

Now we can prepare these away from the sensory room, without flooding it with the smell of cork taint or Brettanomyces.”

With movable tables (all on wheels),

chairs, a fresh outlook and even Reidel glassware, David describes it as one of the best sensory rooms he has worked in. And the opportunities for the wine industry at large is also a big plus.

Rob Agnew is the chair of the advisory committee that works alongside NMIT’s Viticulture and Winemaking programme. He says there are so many opportunities for the new room to become an integral part of the local wine industry. From being able to be used for Wine Marlborough’s regional selection tasting, through to industry arranged wine courses, he believes it offers something currently not available in the region.

“The industry advisory committee has provided a lot of input during the development of the viticulture and winemaking degree programme, and now NMIT are keen to give something back. It provides a neutral space if a number of wineries are showcasing their product to media. Being set up as a teaching facility, it is the perfect environment for any course winemakers may be keen to run. It will be able to be used by visiting media who want to taste the wines without distraction. So there are a lot of uses for it and we are keen to see it be used by the industry as a whole,” he says.

While the fit out has been custom designed, David says it has been a challenge. Mainly because the space the new sensory room fills, used to be a commercial kitchen, utilised by students undertaking

facilities remained. David says they had to remove all the ovens and sinks, then repack the walls so they were all aligned.

“It was a much bigger job than you would think, it certainly hasn’t been just a refit.”

Students are already enjoying the new facility and even more will get to do so next year, if the interest in the degree is anything to go by.

Currently there are 15 people undertaking the degree, with more than half of those doing so on-line. Next year though, those numbers are set to increase, David says.

“For 2016 we already have 11 committed to the degree from New Zealand and Australia and we have eight or nine internationals already in the system. And we haven’t

“Plus we do a lot of sensory trials for students where we add things to wine, or ask them to pick up certain sensory aspects within a wine, such as taints. Now we can prepare these away from the sensory room, without flooding it with the smell of cork taint or Brettanomyces.” a diploma in food production. That course was shut down a few years ago, although the kitchen and restaurant

even begun our big promotion, half a degree for free.” (See following story).

While there are already two other degrees available to students in New Zealand, he says NMIT’s one is based on being different.

“Our point of difference is we aim to be more practical. We have work place components for both viticulture and wine. We have a lot of hands on stuff here, which we get the students to do.

But we also have the research stream, which is quite a different approach. The students do statistic and experimental design and research practices. Then in their third year they do a major research project, which they can do in the industry if they want. That really is our point of difference. And it offers a lot of opportunities to the students.”

Lex Thomson B.Vit & Oen. is available to assist the winegrower.

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• Spray plans • Pest and disease monitoring.

• Assistance with SWNZ scorecards, audits and the associated record keeping.

• Irrigation audits.

• Yield assessments.

• Fruit maturity sampling.

Visit www.vitpractice.co.nz for details about our full range of viticulture services.

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14

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$10,000 Lure For Wine Students Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology is offering a plum incentive for students wanting to study in a Bachelor of Viticulture and Winemaking programme.

It’s called the “half a degree for free” and offers a saving of $10,000. Initially it was offered for the first time in viticulture and winemaking last year to school leavers but has now been extended, briefly, to all New Zealand resident students studying full time or part time on the three-year degree programme.

Wine tutor David Hayward says the industry needs more well qualified people and NMIT’s “half a degree for free” is a great opportunity for people to get a start.

He says the degree programme is

18 | WINEPRESS October 2015

not only for people who want to be winemakers or grape growers but also for those wanting to enter the business side of the industry – in management, or marketing as well as research.

David says many of the degree programme students tend to be people aged from their late 20s to 40s.

“Some have been working on vineyards or in wineries and realise they need qualifications to get better jobs. Others come to us wanting a change from other professions or trades.”

He says the “half a degree for free” incentive may be an irresistible lure.

“It’s an industry where transportable skills can take you around the world. It’s a good life and a satisfying career if it’s your passion.”

The NMIT programme is attractive,

David says, being based in New Zealand’s biggest wine region by far.

“We produce 75 per cent of the nation’s wine and have more than 150 wineries with so many experts and potential mentors in all fields. It makes sense to study here with real hands-on learning.

Would-be wine students have until December 1 to take advantage of the “half a degree for free” offer. The next intake begins on February 22, 2016.

NMIT also offers a Certificate in Vineyard Practice programme for domestic students.

The People and Stories Excite New Editor TESSA NICHOLSON

Sophie Preece is no stranger to the wine industry and will be a familiar name to many working within it.

The former Marlborough Express reporter began her career in the region working on the rural round, before covering wine and health. She then went on to become the paper’s Chief reporter, before taking up freelance work.

In the past seven years she has written for North & South, Wild Tomato, Seafood New Zealand and New Zealand House and Garden.

She is also one of the three founders and trustees of the Marlborough Book Festival that has taken the region and authors by storm in recent years.

Married to salmon farmer Mark and with two young children, she is the new face of Winepress and comes into the job with a multitude of talents.

She has always had a bit of a soft

spot for the region – although she admits as a younger person she couldn’t see herself putting down roots here.

“I was only going to come to Marlborough for a year and, the same old story that a lot of people have, I thought I would head on to a metropolitan paper. But then I met Mark and I literally fell for Marlborough. To me, it’s the best province in New Zealand.”

As for the industry itself, she says Marlborough wine has tendrils that go throughout the world, touching people of all walks of life.

“Last week I was in Tanna (Vanuatu) and people there know all about Marlborough through the RSE programme and the help the industry

gave them after Cyclone Pam. Meanwhile friends in places like London know all about us too. That’s a big achievement for such a small rural area.”

She says the wine industry is full of great stories, from grape growers and winemakers to the vineyard workers, scientists, cellar hands and marketers supporting them. “Marlborough’s wine industry has a fantastic history, passionate people, and this world class wine they produce. That makes for great yarns. I am really looking forward to telling some of their stories.”

Sophie’s first edition as Winepress Editor will be November.

WINEPRESS October 2015 | 19

20 | WINEPRESS October 2015

Sauvignon Blanc Celebration Update Those attending the first ever International Sauvignon Blanc Celebration next year, can expect to be wowed by the line up of events.

Hundreds of winemakers, marketers, trade and media will converge on Marlborough between February 1 and 3 to celebrate a variety that consumers world-wide have taken to their hearts.

Eight countries; Australia, South Africa, Chile, France, Italy, US, Austria and New Zealand will add the international component, with tastings combining

with discussions on regionality, diversity and style.

The variety itself will come under the spotlight, as an array of international guest speakers dissect what it is that makes Sauvignon Blanc one of the most popular white wine varieties in the world.

As for celebration, organisers have ensured there will be plenty of it. From a Garden Party at the historic Timara Lodge, to a custom designed train trip through the Awatere to the Kekerungu coast for

a Kiwiana beach party, will only be topped by the Gala Dinner on the final night.

Ensuring no guest will ever forget the evening; a 25 minute choreographed show featuring costumes from the World of Wearable Arts will take place.

Chair of the organising committee, Patrick Materman, says it will be one of the highlights of the three-day event.

“Despite this being an iconic New Zealand event, there are a lot of people here that have never seen it. And many of the international guests may not even be aware of WOW, so this is going to be something very special.”

Appropriately the dinner will take place in a marquee set in the home of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc – Brancott Vineyard. A limited number of tickets for the Gala Dinner will be available to the public.

For all the information on the programme and guest speakers, visit; www.sauvignon2016.com

WINEPRESS October 2015 | 21

Méthode Marlborough On The Label TESSA NICHOLSON

For the first time ever, a sparkling Marlborough wine has been released identified as a Méthode Marlborough. It is something Daniel Le Brun has been waiting for, for 35 years.

Daniel could rightly be called the godfather of sparkling wine in New Zealand. A 12th generation winemaker, hailing from Champagne, he was the first in this part of the world to produce a sparkling wine, back in 1985. And since then, he has never deviated from that one style.

Now 30 years later, his latest release under the No 1 Family Estate label, Assemblé, is identified as a Méthode Marlborough.

Not a sparkling wine, or a Méthode Traditionnelle as so many other new world producers call it.

His redefining the style by placing the two words on the label, is all part of being an inaugural member of the group known simply as Méthode Marlborough.

When it was first launched in 2013, the group had eight winery members. Today it has 10 and more are lining up to join. But first they will have to fit the

22 | WINEPRESS October 2015

membership criteria, which means they must produce their sparkling wine in a traditional method.

• That means the wine must be 100% grown and made in Marlborough • Wines must be made by traditional methods of production, meaning second fermentation is in the bottle, followed by a complex disgorging process • The wines are 100% made of the three traditional varieties (Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier) individually or as a blend • And the wines must be aged for a minimum of 18 months on lees Since arriving here in 1980 Daniel has always reveled in the potential of Marlborough to produce a product that is equal or better than those emanating from his birth region.

“I really believe this district can produce something that is capable of rivaling Champagne. After 35 years in the district, I think history has proven me right. Because right now there are some wines locally produced, that if you tasted blind against some Champagne, you will find the Champagne will sometimes come out second best.”

He puts the quality down to Marlborough’s climate, which is perfect for the three traditional varieties.

“This is the sort of climate the growers in Champagne would die for,” he says.

“The grapes are always sufficiently ripe, that we never have to chapitalise.

Champagne has to chapitalise eight times out of 10.

“Chapitalisation is the artificial sweetening of the grape juice before fermentation,” he adds.

Given producers have no problem placing Marlborough before all other varieties, such as Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir or Chardonnay – why on earth has it taken so long for an identification of our premium sparkling wines to take hold?

A lot of that probably has to do with the momentum of Sauvignon Daniel believes.

“I think sparkling has always taken the backstage compared to Sauvignon.

But it is slowly getting more and more traction. More people are interested to produce a bubbles within their range.”

And with restrictions on exactly what you can place on your label, he feels it is even more important for Marlborough producers to get on board.

“To me it is unfair the protectionism coming from Champagne. They stopped people calling their wine Méthode Champenois, but that is what it is. Wine made in the method of Champagne. Now we have to call it Méthode Traditionnelle – which doesn’t really mean anything. To me it is just protectionism. To protect the appellation – that is fair enough as we are not Champagne. But not to be able to use Champenois – that is protectionism.”

The first bottles of Assemblé (pronounced Assom Bley) were released in the Auckland market in August. At the official launch Bob Campbell MW opened the wine in the traditional

A Special Dinner From Left: Daniel Le Brun, Bob Campbell and Rob Elliott from Lemongrass Productions at the launch of Assemblé in Auckland.

manner – by sabrage. In case you are not aware of the technique, it involves using a sword to cut the top of the bottle clean off. Not something to try at home, it you are not experienced, although not many people would have a sword hanging around the kitchen.

Daniel says the sabrage tradition goes all the way back to Napoleonic days, when the soldiers carried stocks of Champagne with them to celebrate victories. In true dramatic style, their swords were used to literally slice the top off the bottle, prior to drinking. No other region in the world has such a dramatic tradition.

“No because no other variety would be so spectacular,” Daniel says. “ And the reason it is so spectacular is because of the pressure, everything just flies.”

Having undertaken sabrage hundreds of times himself, he says there is no risk of glass fragments.

“It all comes down to applying the right movement at the right place.”

I’ll trust him on that one.

The 10 members of Méthode Marlborough are preparing for a spectacular food and wine matching dinner next month.

The One Night, Five Courses, Ten Sparklings will be held at the Aviation Heritage Centre at the Omaka Aerodrome on November 21.

Each of the five courses will be matched to two Méthode Marlborough wines. Celebrated local chef David Anderson has been busy matching the complex flavours associated with the different sparklings, to create the one off menu.

Adding to the drama of the night, the dinner will be served around a vintage spitfire plane.

The 10 wineries making up Méthode Marlborough are, Allan Scott, Cloudy Bay Vineyards, Daniel Le Brun, Hunter’s Wines, Johanneshof, Nautilus Estate, No 1 family Estate, Spy Valley, Summerhouse and Tohu Wines.

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A Humbling Experience TESSA NICHOLSON

A unique course that provides education for RSE workers is having an impact here in Marlborough. This winter nearly 100 workers graduated through the Vakameasina Programme.

The name of the programme funded by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade is very appropriate.Vaka like waka means canoe. Measina is a Samoan word meaning treasures of learning. As Marlborough’s programme coordinator Anne Barrer says the workers who have travelled here, are getting an opportunity to take some higher learning home with them.

Initially established to help the RSE workers with their English, numeracy

24 | WINEPRESS October 2015

and financial literacy, the programme here in Marlborough has been expanded in the past three years.

“That is still the basis of the programme, with literacy and numeracy being embedded into each subject taught. But now we also offer topics that the workers are interested in. Cooking is always popular and so is leadership. After Cyclone Pam (which devastated parts of Vanuatu) we incorporated carpentry into the

course, so they are doing and learning something very practical.”

Anne says one of the other popular topics is solar power.

“Many of the people from Vanuatu come from quite remote islands where there isn’t electricity, so they may already be using solar power, or want to.”

A wide range of tutors are brought in to help teach, many of them from local businesses.

Carpentry courses were introduced this year after Cyclone Pam hit Vanuatu.

“The businesses have given up their time to explain tools and what they are used for. In some cases they were shown tools that might be able to be run or charged on solar panels or generators which is what many of the workers will need to do when they get home.”

The courses run for two hours, one night a week, for 10 weeks and are held at the NMIT campus.

For many of those participating in the Vakameasina programme, it is the only education they have had the chance to attain, since they were children.

“Secondary school education in many of the islands is quite expensive, especially in Vanuatu.

“Often the reason many of the workers are over here is they want to earn enough money to send their children on to secondary school. So for them being able to learn while they are here is really appreciated. It means they will be able to take something back to their communities and families.”

Marcus Pickens, Wine Marlborough’s GM, described the graduation as “very humbling,” especially seeing how

Wine Marlborough’s Marcus Pickens with graduating Elisha Palma. “It was a very humbling experience.”

much passing the courses means to the workers.

While the winter courses are now over, with 95 graduating, Anne is preparing for the summer courses which will

begin in November. She is always keen to hear from contractors who may have workers that would like to be involved.

If you would like more information, contact Anne at; barrers@xtra.co.nz

WINEPRESS October 2015 | 25

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Wine The Wild West Way ANNABELLE LATZ https://plus.google.com/+AnnabelleLatz

Arizona, the Wild West. It is cactus, dirt roads, not much grass, lots of pick-up trucks, and snakes. But Annabelle Latz has been digging a little deeper.

I’m here in the Arizona desert right now. I’m making wine, and I’m absolutely loving it.

I received some strange looks from folk back home when I said I was coming here for a grape harvest, as they asked the question; ‘Why Arizona? Is there wine there?’

To be fair, wine industry people here have a look of surprise when I say I’ve come from Marlborough in New Zealand to check out their world of winemaking. Their next expression is one of pride and excitement.

Flying into Phoenix at the end of July, my initial preconceived idea of this state was fulfilled; giant cactus and masses of open land, wild horses and cattle.

Before heading 200 miles south-east to southern Arizona’s Cochise County, which would be my home for the next 10 weeks as an intern at Pillsbury Wine Company and Rune Wines, I spent a fun couple of days learning the cowboy way of life in Arizona while staying on a small ranch just outside of Phoenix.

I was then collected by winemaker James Callahan, in his beaten old pick-up truck. This is who I would be working with for harvest. We explored northern Arizona’s Verde Valley near Sodona, a major wine hub. The Verde Valley sits at around 3,800 feet and is the home of the sleepy former bustling coal mining town of Jerome with its creeks, rolling green hills, cows, plenty of fruit trees, and a warm friendly hippy vibe… who would have thought this would be the desert?!

I was introduced to Sangiovese, Mourvedre, Malvasia Bianca, and Symphony, tasted Viognier and Syrah, Chenin Blanc, some familiar splashes of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling

and Pinot Noir, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Grenache, just to name a few.

On our way back down south to Willcox we stopped off at another thriving wine hub of Sonoita/Elgin, 45 miles south-east of Tucson, the birth place of Arizona’s wine industry 35 years ago. Sitting at an altitude of 4,900 ft, it is where pioneer university professor Gordon Dutt planted his first grapes in the 1970’s.

Here James has his tasting room for his label Rune Wine, an appealing spot for its tourism, great soils and the wonderful scenery of Sonoita’s famous landmark ‘The Biscuit’ cutting into the Mustang mountains bordering the landscape of vineyards and cattle.

The amount of cactus lessened as we drove south towards Willcox, with the promise of mountainous terrain beyond with the Chiricahua Mountains to the south-east and the Dos Cabezas Mountains to the north-east stamping their mark on the horizon; also havens for quality vine territory.

Two-thirds of the state’s wine acreage is around Willcox; historically a busy farming town full of cotton growers and cattle farmers, which sits at 4,200 ft.

Pillsbury Wine Company is in Kansas Settlement near the town, founded by Sam Pillsbury the former film director and producer who coincidentally spent many years living in New Zealand. It was 15 years ago when Sam planted his first 20 acres of Rhône varieties, which he purchased for $400/acre.

He sold that a few years later to finance what is now the winery, house and tasting room where Sam, James and I are based for harvest, on 100 acres which includes 30 acres for the 14,000 vines, of 11 varieties.

With the grapes off this estate vineyard and from nearby, James makes the wine here for Pillsbury Wine Company and own Rune Wine label, which he set up two years ago. James and Sam work exceptionally well together in the winery here, which is performing its second harvest. The “Mad Max” winery was made on a strict budget and not

Giving you an idea of where in the world the Arizona wine region is.

WINEPRESS October 2015 | 27

Bringing in the grapes Arizona style.

From left James Callahan, Sam Pillsbury, Annabelle Latz. Photo James Bartle.

without plenty of innovation. But with their shared love for grape growing and winemaking, and amongst the raw culture, climate and variable terroir that is Arizona, the pair produce something very special and delicious.

We’ll harvest about 80 tonnes of grapes including Chardonnay,Viognier, Symphony, Malvasia Bianca, Chenin Blanc, Roussanne, Grenache, Syrah, Petit Sirah, Mourvedre, Cabernet, and Merlot.

James and I make the wine, Sam monitors sugar levels, tonnages and picking crews. We have one pump, and there is not a stainless steel tank or a glycol valve in sight.

Fruit is picked at 4am, and three hours later the first two picking bins will arrive, bouncing gently behind the old Kubota, with one or three dogs on board also.

On white fruit days we will load up the old Willmes press, the 35 year-old German made yellow beast purchased from California and not without many quirks. Red grapes will be destemmed then fermented in big bins, and immediately after processing the free run juice will be saigneed to make rose.

Whole-bunch may feature too.

Barrels house most of the white ferments, as well as some plastic tanks which reach 1550 gallons.

Essentials aren’t always at our fingertips; the nearest dry ice facility is 95 miles away in Tucson, and a typical day is

28 | WINEPRESS October 2015

between 14 and 17 hours long.

Creativity is at the forefront of winemaking here. Cold storage is six insulated trailers set to about 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Most days here sit around 90 degrees Fahrenheit and dropping to mid-sixties overnight, which means ferments can kick off quickly. Selected red and whites are inoculated wild, and co-ferments keep things interesting too.

Not having the luxury of glycol-clad stainless steel tanks has really made me learn more about juice, wine, and its behaviour. Less automation from equipment means more questions, and at times, less answers.

Admittedly, the industry is still finding its feet here, while working alongside existing wheat, corn, alfalfa, cotton, beef, pecan and pistachio farmers.

Only certain areas have specified water restrictions, but it will only be a matter of time before more restrictions are in place here to prevent the aquifers from drying up.

Currently there are more vineyards than wineries; a constant flow of buying and selling of grapes maintains a happy medium between growers and winemakers.

Arizona has 942 acres under vine at the beginning of the year, and 83 bonded wineries ranging from large custom crush to small twenty tonne facilities.

They range in the amount of money behind them for how many ‘bells and whistles’ there may be.

Despite the desert climate, Arizona knows all about rain. It’s called the monsoon and comes with furious vigour which causes either delight for grape growers, or tears of frustration.

A monsoon approaches with its patch of black sky which is clapping with thunder and shafts of lightening.

The temperature will drop fast, within 10 minutes we can drop 30 degrees Fahrenheit. A 10 minute downpour follows, a provider of a quick watering in the vineyard.

But the monsoon which brings hail can cause heartbreak, as a crop may be lost in ten minutes.

The mighty monsoon is beyond our control, and the best leveller of all.

Arizona has attracted many quality grape growers and winemakers from other parts of America, and in the past 12 years especially, the industry has flourished, with wines winning awards across the country and holding their own against some of the best regarded drops in neighbouring established states.

The roads here are dusty and the highways have more pick-up trucks than anything else, County Sheriffs wear star badges on their chests, Border Patrol trucks keep a close eye on those coming and going from the nearby Mexican border, and pot holed dirt roads keep cars dusty and in regular need of suspension maintenance.

Rattle snakes and gophers slither their way over to the crush pad sometimes, tarantulas are fun to play with, bats and owls dot the sky, while bears roam the nearby mountain ranges.

This is winemaking. This is Arizona. In the heart of the desert surrounded by grace only the Wild West knows.

Sparkling Sauvignon TESSA NICHOLSON

Back in 2008 and 2009, when Marlborough had an abundance of Sauvignon Blanc in the tanks – a new style of wine emerged.

Sparkling Sauvignon. And an expert believes we may have hit onto something special.

Richard Lee is the Project Marketing Manager for the Lifestyle Wines Programme. As part of the recent research he has undertaken, feedback from key markets suggests there is potentially a market for this lighter and fresher style of wine in the future.

One of the fastest growing wines in the world at the moment is Prosecco – an Italian sparkling wine that generally has a more moderate alcohol level.

Globally it has already surpassed sales of Champagne shipping 320 million

bottles versus 307 million bottles of French champagne, and Richard doesn’t expect that growth to stop any time soon. This is where he sees the potential for sparkling Sauvignon Blanc or a distinctive kiwi premium style suited to sparkling wine occasions and designed to successfully leverage the popularity of New Zealand still Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.

“People have been quick to say, don’t go back to what was produced post 2008, but take another look at the

growing market opportunity here. If you can craft a quality product that delivers, then you have a group of loyal premium still Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc consumers who regularly have sparkling wine occasions. But the vacuum is happily filled by sparkling wines such as Prosecco” It is also taking a share of the still white wine market.

“And Sauvignon Blanc is a big part of that, so by default Prosecco is taking some of New Zealand’s Sauvignon Blanc share. So it is a threat, but the opportunity is also there.”

Richard admits that making a high quality, premium sparkling Sauvignon Blanc is a challenge for winemakers.

But perhaps the opportunity lies with New Zealand’s own version of Prosecco especially if the resulting wine is lower in alcohol than other alternatives.

The other area of potential incremental growth is Rosé he said, but again it needs to be taken seriously by New Zealand winemakers.

“If you look at New Zealand Rosé, it is a fast growing category domestically – and lower alcohol wines have been a significant Some of New Zealand’s biggest companies have been producing sparkling Sauvignon Blanc.The contributor to the market may be open to even more.

WINEPRESS October 2015 | 29

incremental growth in this category. If you look at all the main markets we compete in, Rosé growth is right up there, there is no doubt about that.

From a lower alcohol point of view, Rosé is also a lot easier to do than say a Pinot Noir.”

While it has traditionally been geared more towards female consumers, Richard says men are starting to pick up on it, and in some markets it is now referred to as “Brosé”.

However, once again, the market feedback is that New Zealand winemakers need to take it more seriously.

“The feedback from some of the retail gate keepers is that we don’t really take it that seriously. That shouldn’t be a surprise to people.

Often it is a last ditch wine. ‘We have some juice left in the tank, let’s make

The feedback from some of the retail gate keepers is that we don’t really take it that seriously. That shouldn’t be a surprise to people. Often it is a last ditch wine.

30 | WINEPRESS October 2015

a Rosé.’ But there is a market that is growing here and internationally so make a really premium quality Rosé designed to take advantage of the trend.”

And Rosé doesn’t always have to be still. Just like with Prosecco, sparkling Rosé is on the rise, which could add another dimension to any winery’s portfolio.

“This is a category that is going really well, it is a part of the trend.”

In terms of where our flagship wine sits in the minds of consumers, Richard says a survey of regular drinkers in our main markets shows few signs of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc losing favour.

“You keep hearing about us being a one trick pony and that people are becoming fatigued with Sauvignon Blanc. Well certainly based on our research (the largest ever survey

undertaken by NZW) there are still a lot of people in the world who haven’t yet purchased it, but remain open to buying it. And there is only a relatively small percentage of people who are over it. It’s pretty healthy I’d say.”

During the survey, consumers were asked if they had recently purchased a New Zealand Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.

If so, were they likely to buy again or not, or if they had not purchased, were they still open to buying it.

The figures for our largest market at the moment, the US, are the most exciting Richard said.

According to Wine Intelligence, there are 90 million regular wine drinkers in the US. 13% have recently bought a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and would buy again. But 40% have not bought, but remain open to buying it. In Canada the potential Sauvignon Blanc buyers is 41%.

And from the survey the people who are lapsed Sauvignon drinkers (have bought and are unlikely to buy again) ranged from 5% to 8%, meaning the potential for increased growth is much higher than it is for those who are “over it”.

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Tel: 03 5782648 Fax: 03 5782546 Gouland Road, Spring Creek. Tel: 03 5705944 Fax 03 5705955

Grapes Wanted Under our Rapaura Springs and Summerhouse brands SCV exports to over 20 different countries, and with demand going through the roof for our award winning super premium wines we need more growers, more grapes and whole lot of energy to take more of our wines to the rest of the world.

SCV is a family owned Marlborough based winery with our growers not only getting a great price but also bonus payments for quality, generous cropping levels and free viticultural assistance. So if you have some uncontracted fruit, are looking at planting or just want to discuss options, give Simon Bowers a call on 021 446 993 or email simon@scvl.co.nz

WINEPRESS October 2015 | 31

NZW Export News – July 2015 Key Points • 2015 export value is $1.436 billion, up 9% on the previous year.

• MAT July 2015 exports are 205.1 m. litres, up 9% on the previous year; packaged exports are +3% for the period and other exports are up 25%.

• Average value MAT July 2015 is $6.89 per litre down 2% on the previous year; packaged export value is $8.36 per litre up 2% on the previous year.

NB: WECS, which is the source for volume data in this Report, moved to a different software system in October 2014. This has affected the data in this Report. Going forward the new software will deliver better alignment with the Statistics NZ value data as WECS data will now

record the date of shipment from NZ, not the date of certification.

Short term and unavoidably this means, in comparison to previous data,YTD and MAT May exports are understated by 3.6 m. litres, all of which is packaged product. In the Report reference to ‘adjusted WECS data’ means the data includes this 3.6m. litres Total Export Volume & Value • MAT July 2015 total value of exports is $1.436 billion, up 9% on the previous year.

• Total value of July 2015 exports was $113.9 m. up 12% on July 2014.

• MAT July 2015 exports are 205.1 m. litres, up 9% (17.5 m. litres) on the previous year. Based on adjusted

WECS data, exports are 208.7 m litres up 11% (21.1m. litres).

• July 2015 exports were 15.6 m. litres down 2% (0.3 m. litres) on July 2014.

Export Value per Litre All wines • July 2015 average value was $7.62 per litre, up 19% from July 2014.

• MAT July 2015 average price is $6.89 per litre, down 2% or $0.17 per litre on MAT July 2014.

Packaged wines • Excluding unpackaged wine from the data, the July 2015 average value was $8.91 per litre, the highest value since January 2012.

• MAT July 2015 the average price is $8.36 per litre, up $0.13 per litre (2%) on MAT July 2014.

COMPLETE BOTTLING LINE FOR SALE For all enquiries call 03 344 6270 or 027 544 3736

32 | WINEPRESS October 2015

• MAT July 2015 prices are up 8% to the USA and 3% to UK, but are down 1% to Canada and 3% to Australia.

Export Volume by Country of Destination • In July, for the major markets, exports were up 26% to the USA, and 4% to the UK but were down 33% to Australia. Canada was up 23% for the month, while performance of other markets was mixed, with the best performer being Japan.

• MAT July 2015 growth is led by the UK +15% with USA +11% and Australia +3%. Canada shipments are +3% for the year. Performance of other tracked markets is mixed with Netherlands the strongest performer +16%.

Export Volume by Packaging Type • Exports of packaged wines MAT July 2015 are 135.2 m. litres up 3% (3.3 m. litres) on the previous year and are 65.9% of total export volume. Based

on adjusted WECS data, exports are 138.8m. litres up 5% (6.9m. litres).

• MAT July 2015 packaged exports are led by USA +13% (4.1 m. litres) • July 2015 packaged exports were 10.3 m. litres, up 2% on July 2014.

• Other (non-packaged) wine shipments MAT July 2015 are 69.9m. litres up 25% (34.1% of export volume). Non- packaged shipments growth is led by Australia (+43%).

• July 2015 non-packaged shipments were 5.3 m. litres, down 8% on July 2014

• MAT July 2015, Sauvignon Blanc shipments are 177.8 m. litres up 11% from the previous year. Performance of other styles is mixed with Pinot Gris +9% the strongest performer.

• Production of Sauvignon Blanc in 2014 is estimated to have been 231.1 m. litres, 36% up on the previous year.

Shipments of vintage 2014 Sauvignon Blanc since release are 182.8 m. litres or 79.1% of estimated production.

Shipments of vintage 2015 Sauvignon Blanc currently amount to just 2.7% of estimated production.

Exports by Variety/Style • In July 2015 Sauvignon Blanc exports were 13.5 m. litres, up 1% from the previous year, accounting for 86.1% of export volume. Of the Sauvignon Blanc exported in July, 9.7 m litres was from Vintage 2014 and 3.6 m. litres was from vintage 2015.

• Performance of other styles was mixed in July with Riesling performing well.

Exports by Winery Category • July 2015 export growth was led by the large wineries +3% with the small wineries +2% and the medium wineries -15%.

• MAT July 2015 growth is led by the small wineries +32% with the medium wineries +4%; large wineries are +7% for the period.

FOR SALE

VINEYARD EQUIPMENT LOCATED NEAR RENWICK ALL THE BASICS TO RUN YOUR VINEYARD

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NEW HOLLAND TN65F (NARROW TRACTOR) 5500 HOURS. NEW CLUTCH AND BATTERY, PRESSURE CONTROL FOR SPRAYING, OVERALL IN GOOD WORKING CONDITION AND APPEARANCE. TWO WHEEL DRIVE. :: :: :: FIELMASTER MOWER GMS SERIES SIDE DISCHARGE :: :: :: PELLANC SINGLE SIDE TRIMMER. RECONDITIONED WITH NEW STYLE CUTTER TEETH. DESIGNED TO FIT ON TRACTOR. :: :: :: UNDERVINE WEED SPRAYER SINGLE ROW BUT FITTINGS FOR CONVERTING TO DOUBLE ROW. DESIGNED TO WORK WITH TRACTOR PTO AND PUMP.

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Asking price $30,000 plus GST the lot - negotiable Please email owner for further details etc.

veal@xnet.co.nz or phone 021 689 641

WINEPRESS October 2015 | 33

Wine Happenings A monthly list of events within the New Zealand wine industry.

To have your event included in next month’s calendar please email details to sophie@sophiepreese.co.nz

OCTOBER 17 19 22

Spy Valley Dinner – Five courses matched with Envoy Wines. Spy Valley Wines. Tickets; Amanda@spyvalley.co.nz Cellar Door Speed Dating. For more details email; harriet@wine-marlborough.co.nz The Marlborough Wine Show Awards Dinner - Blenheim

NOVEMBER 6 6 15 21 26 20 – 22 28

Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Yacht Race – Picton to Wellington “Taste of Marlborough” Wharewaka Funchtion Centre, Wellingtom Toast Martinborough Drylands Inter-winery Tennis Tournament. Entries; reenie702@hotmail.co.uk Wine Marlborough AGM – MRC Thetre, 3.30pm. Drinks to follow International Wine Law Association Australasian Conference 2015 – Wellington and Blenheim Air New Zealand Wine Awards Dinner - Saxton Stadium, Nelson

DECEMBER 1 5

Regional tasting Air New Zealand Wine Awards – Marlborough The Christchurch/South Island Wine and Food Festival – Hagley Park, Christchurch

JANUARY 31-Feb 1 NZSVO 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Workshop. Registrations now open, full details available at www.nzsvo.org.nz

FEBRUARY 2016 1-3 4-5 13

International Sauvignon Blanc Celebration 2016 – Marlborough Chardonnay and Sparkling Symposium – Gisborne Marlborough Wine and Food Festival

OUR GOURMET RESTAURANT IS OPEN FOR THE SEASON!

The peak season is just around the corner and our Gourmet Restaurant will reopen from Wednesday 14th October for delectable degustation dinners Wednesday to Sunday.

Don’t forget our baby sister Bistro will be open 7 days a week throughout Summer.

HERZOG’S SPRING HOURS

GARDEN BISTRO - 7 DAYS A WEEK LUNCH: 12pm - 3pm

DINNER: 6pm - late

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MONDAY TO FRIDAY: 9-5pm SATURDAY & SUNDAY: 11-5pm

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34 | WINEPRESS October 2015

News From Home and Away PGG Wrightson Viticultural Real Estate Update The spring market has been characterised by increased enquiry and a very limited number of genuine new listings coming forward.

Sales of development blocks at over $110,000 /hectare bare land have been made through September, as well as several producing vineyards in outlying areas at between $130,000 to $180,000 per hectare.

With the frost risk period upon us and the expense of pruning now behind growers, there is traditionally a slow down in activity as post harvest possession becomes a likely option from November onwards.

Interest exists across the board from smaller blocks to corporate interest with the wine industry in a very healthy state at present.

“Last year’s smaller vintage is a key driver to the increased competition and with the lower dollar and some quite attractive longer term contracts for grapes being offered, we are going to see a positive sellers market for the season,” says Joe Blakiston from PGG Wrightson Real Estate.

Dancing Partners The partnership between Nautilus Estate and the Royal New Zealand Ballet has been extended. Nautilus first became a sponsor of the ballet back in 2012, just prior to the company celebrating its 60th birthday. They have also a partnership with one of the dancers, Abigail Boyle, through the Partner a Dancer programme.

Managing Director of Nautilus Estate, Clive Weston says; “The most recent performances of A Midsummer Night’s Dream have yet again proved the outstanding caliber of the RNZB and its dancers. We are very happy to be

lead discussions on growing trends such as natural wines and organic and biodynamic production.”

“This is a great opportunity for Australia’s emerging and top sommeliers to immerse themselves in the New Zealand wine industry and gain a greater understanding of the diverse range of premium wines we produce” said Catherine. “It will be an unforgettable experience.”

there raising a glass, celebrating their successes and saying thanks for their contribution to the arts.”

Australian Sommeliers To Be Shown Our Wines New Zealand Winegrowers has announced nine successful sommeliers from Australia who will participate in the inaugural Sommit Scholarship, held in New Zealand from 30 January to 6 February 2016.

The successful candidates will engage with and learn from some of the great minds in the New Zealand wine business. They will taste a range of premium wines from New Zealand and the rest of the world on an intensive seven-day programme incorporating flagship events on the New Zealand wine industry’s national calendar, (including the International Sauvignon Blanc Celebration).

The first event in the scholarship programme is the Sommelier Summit, hosted by local sommeliers Cameron Douglas MS and Stephen Wong, said Catherine Wansink, Market Manager Australia at New Zealand Winegrowers. “Cameron and Stephen will be presenting their own ‘hidden gems’ of New Zealand wine and will

IWSC Accolades Once again a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has taken out the trophy at the International Wine and Spirit Competition, in London.

Congratulations to Rapaura Springs Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2015, judged the best in the world.

New Zealand shone brightly at the prestigious competition, with a record number of top awards.

Here are the other Marlborough wines that stunned the judges.

Marisco Vineyards Craft Series The Journey Marlborough Pinot Noir 2013 Outstanding Stoneleigh Latitude Marlborough Pinot Noir 2013 Yealands Estate Land Made Marlborough Pinot Noir 2014 The Crossings Marlborough Pinot Noir 2014 Giesen The August 1888 Barrel Fermented Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2012

WINEPRESS October 2015 | 35

Giesen The Fuder Dillions Point Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Villa Maria Reserve Clifford Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Marisco Vineyards Craft Series Pride and Glory Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Koha Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Saint Clair Omaka Reserve Marlborough Chardonnay 2014 Spy Valley Marlborough Gewürztraminer 2014 New World Wine Award Trophies Marlborough also did exceptionally well at the recent New World Wine Awards. The competition rules state the wines entered must retail for $25 or less and there must be at least 5,000 bottles available for sale through New World’s 137 supermarkets nationwide. Of all the Marlborough wines entered, 70 percent gained a medal. What’s more, of the nine trophies, Marlborough wines took four.

Champion Sparkling Wine – Hunter’s MiruMiruTM NV Champion Sauvignon Blanc – Rapaura Springs Reserve Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Champion Pinot Noir – Peter Yealands Reserve Marlborough Pinot Noir 2014 Champion Aromatic Wine – Cicada Marlborough Gewurztraminer 2014

Hunters MiruMiru™ Crowned Best in New Zealand Hunter’s Wines top sparkling MiruMiru™ Reserve 2010 was crowned New Zealand’s Best Sparkling Wine at the 2015 Champagne and Sparkling Wine World Championships in London. The competition is organised by Tom Stevenson, an internationally acclaimed wine writer, specializing in sparkling wines.

Jane Hunter says; “It’s overwhelming to receive these fantastic results. It’s also fitting to share this success with Tom Stevenson who was there at the launch of MiruMiru™ on top of New Zealand House in London back in 1997.”

International Wine Awards Trophies It was a big night for Marlborough wineries at the New Zealand International Wine show awards dinner, with local wines taking out eight trophies including Champion Wine of the Show.

Champion Chardonnay and Wine of the Show – Villa Maria Single Vineyard Taylors Pass Chardonnay – 2014 Pinot Gris – te Pa Pinot Gris 2015 Gewurztraminer – Spy Valley Gewurztraminer 2014 Sauvignon Blanc – Vidal Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Riesling – Soho Betty Lower Alcohol Riesling 2015 Other White Wine Variety – Yealands Estate Single Vineyard Gruner Veltliner 2014 Sweet Wine – Spy Valley Noble Riesling 2014

The Winemaker of the Year was Nick Picone from Villa Maria.

Champion Wine Company of the Year – Villa Maria with four trophies and 22 Gold Medals And the Legend of New Zealand Wine – Recipient of the Sir George Fistonich Medal was Clive Weston.

Wine Language Now Part of Dictionary If you have ever been one to declare a certain time of day as “wine o’clock”, you are not alone. In fact the phrase has become so well used that it has recently been included in the Oxford Dictionaries Online (ODO) along with its cousin “beer o’clock”. The ODO announces a new crop of words to be added to the official register, every quarter. To be added, the term or word has to have become so common in usage, that they are considered ready to be preserved in lexicon for future generations.

A recent report states that “ODO editors watch for their use in everyday writing until they’ve reached that elusive tipping point.”

I wonder though if you could get away putting it down as a word when playing scrabble.

CLASSIFIEDS GRAPE GONDOLA,10 ton, wanted to buy please call Eddie 027 220 3909 CERTIFIED GRAPEVINES for sale for this planting season from Stanmore Farm. Premium quality only. End of season specials available. Check our website www.stanmorefarm. co.nz. Phone Kate Gibbs on 0800 STANMORE. Also currently taking orders for next year SAUVIGNON BLANC grape vines -seconds- for sale. On 101.14 and 3309. Approximately 3500 available. $2 EACH. Phone Vine Nursery NZ on 027 940 2115

Disclaimer: The views and articles that are expressed and appear in Winepress are those entirely those of contributors and in no way reflect the policy of the Marlborough Winegrowers. Any advice given, implied or suggested should be considered on its merits, and no responsibility can be taken for problems arising from the use of such information.

36 | WINEPRESS October 2015

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