WINEPRESS Issue No. 213 / April 2012
Organic Focus
Canadian Impressed
Tony Laithwaite
Rejuvenating Barrels
Photo: Jim Tannock
The Official Magazine of
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In this issue... Regulars
Features
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7
4
Editorial Tasman Crop Met Report
Marlborough’s Organic Focus Vineyard Wither Hills were last year selected to be the Marlborough company involved in the latest research comparing organic
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versus conventional grape
Marketing Matters
14 Generation Y-ine 27 Wine Happenings
p23
growing. We look at the initial results leading into veraison.
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Tony Laithwaite
The co owner of one of the world’s largest specialist home delivery wine services, Tony Laithwaite played a major role in promoting
From Home and 28 News Away
Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc back in the 80s. In the 26 years since, he has seen some major changes in the world of wine.
All correspondence including advertising / associate memberships / change of address to: Wine Marlborough PO Box 511, Blenheim 7240 T: 03 577 9299, F: 03 577 9298 E: admin@wine-marlborough.co.nz www.wine-marlborough.co.nz
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Making Straw Wine
A new wine company is using an
p24
age-old tradition to create a wine with a difference. Eureka last year made a straw wine, where the grapes are aged on beds of straw in a glass house.
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WINEPRESS is printed with vegetable oil based inks on elemental chlorine free paper which is sourced 100% from well managed forrests and manufactured under ISO 14001 Environmental Management Systems.
NMIT Cellar Hand Course Following the success of last year’s inaugural Cellar Hand course, NMIT, along with the Department of Social Development and local industry members have backed a second course.
p19
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New Zealand’s Premier Horticultural Supplies Specialists. TasmanCrop provides a wide range of Horticultural products including: Specialist Crop Fertilisers Crop Protection Chemistry Personal Safety & Spraying Equipment Horticultural Textiles & Nettings Tools, Ties & Harvesting Equipment Irrigation / Fertigation Equipment Plant & Soil Analytical / Testing Services Please contact us for technical advice.
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From the Editor
Wine Marlborough Free to all levy paying members Associate Members: $77 +GST Editor:
New Zealand Wine lost one of its greatest champions recently, with the death of Master of Wine, John Avery. Not only was he the first person to import New Zealand wine into the UK way back in
Tessa Nicholson
the 70s, but his enthusiasm for our quality never dimmed in nearly 40 years.
16 Bank Street
He was the very first European judge at the Air New Zealand Wine Awards, back
Blenheim
in 1978 – a year when only five gold medals were awarded. He was invited back in
T: 021 709 571
1981 and again for a third time in 2010. He was a guest of Wine Marlborough at the
E: tessa.nicholson@me.com
Wine Weekend in 2010 where a special relationship with this region was formed.
If you wish to make contact with any
commercial links between Marlborough’s wine industry and UK importers, distributors
member of the Wine Marlborough
and retailers. The first recipient of the Wine Marlborough NZ-UK John Avery Wine
Board, the following are their email
Scholarship was Marcus Pickens and the second recipient, who will come from the
addresses.
UK, is yet to be announced.
Dominic Pecchenino:
So who was John Avery MW? He was the fourth generation to be involved in the wine
nzyanks@xtra.co.nz Anna Flowerday: ajflowerday@xtra.co.nz Blair Gibbs: blair@spyvalley.co.nz James Jones: james@starborough.co.nz Ivan Sutherland: ivan@dogpoint.co.nz Ben Glover: ben@witherhills.co.nz Ruud Maasdam: ruud@staetelandt.co.nz Clive Jones:
He willingly gave his support and name to a scholarship to encourage and promote
and spirits importation company, Averys of Bristol. He gained his Master of Wine in 1975, and held the position of Chair at the Institute in 2000. He is credited with coining the phrase New World wines and was a respected judge around the world. He was never satisfied with relying on other people to bring wines to his attention, instead preferring to travel and talk to wine producers on their home turf. He along with the then CEO of the Wine Institute of New Zealand, Terry Dunleavy, helped establish the annual New Zealand wine tastings in London – which are still a vital cog in our international promotional programme. He was a major supporter for New Zealand to be the host nation at the London Trade Fair in 1987, which helped launch our wines to the wider UK community. Terry Dunleavy describes John as such; “Among the ‘foreigners’ who helped us get to where we are as a billion-dollar plus export industry, he deserves to be ranked with Romeo Bragato, Dr Helmut Becker and Dr Richard Smart.” John Avery will be remembered fondly by anyone who met him, for his enthusiasm, generosity and strong values. He is someone the New Zealand wine industry will be forever indebted to.
cjones@nautilusestate.com Richard Rose: kvl@silkweb.net.nz Guy Lissaman: glissaman@xtra.co.nz
TESSA NICHOLSON tessa.nicholson@me.com
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Met Report Table 1: Blenheim Weather Data – March 2012 March 2012
March 2012 compared to LTA
March LTA
Period of LTA
March 2011
GDD’s for: Month - Max/Min¹ Month – Mean²
153.9 157.8
77% 81%
199.4 195.6
(1996-2010) (1996-2010)
191.8 190.0
Growing Degree Days Total Jul 11 - Mar 12 – Max/Min Jul 11 - Mar 12 – Mean
1060.4 1106.5
88% 90%
1205.0 1235.3
(1996-2010) (1996-2010)
1278.8 1280.2
20.3 9.6 15.0 15.0
-1.2°C -0.9°C -1.0°C -1.2°C
21.5 10.5 16.0 16.2
(1986-2010) (1986-2010) (1986-2010) (1932-2000)
21.9 10.5 16.2 16.2
Grass Frosts (<= -1.0°C)
0
1 less
1.0 0.19
(1932-1980) (1986-2010)
0
Air Frosts
0
-
0.1 0.0
(1932-1980) (1986-2010)
0
Sunshine hours Sunshine hours – lowest Sunshine hours – highest Sunshine hours total – 2012
192.5
89.5% 84.9%
(1930-2000) 1980 1969 (1930-2000)
229.0
596.8
215 146.7 281.0 703
Rainfall (mm) Rainfall (mm) – lowest Rainfall (mm) – highest Rainfall total (mm) – 2012
58.6
127% 86.6%
(1930-2000) 1969 1979 (1930-2000)
30.6
122.2
46 2.8 118.0 141
Evapotranspiration – mm
101.2
101%
100.2
(1996-2011)
110.6
Avg. Daily Windrun (km)
231.0
88%
261.3
(1996-2011)
221.2
Mean soil temp – 10cm
14.0
-1.6°C
15.6
(1986-2011)
15.6
Mean soil temp – 30cm
16.7
-1.4°C
18.1
(1986-2011)
18.2
Mean Maximum (°C) Mean Minimum (°C) Mean Temp (°C) Mean Temp (°C)
(0.0°C)
675.7
82.6
¹GDD’s Max/Min are calculated from absolute daily maximum and minimum temperatures ²GDD’s Mean are calculated from average hourly temperatures Frosts Temperature No ground or air frosts were recorded The first and fourth weeks of March in March 2012. The data for the past 20112 were cold, with temperatures well below the long-term average (1986-2011) 26 years (1986-2011) indicates that (Table 2). The second week of March was Blenheim has experienced a ground frost in March about one year in five. However, also below average. However, the third this is biased by the three years 1992 to week of March was 0.9°C above average 1994 when frosts were recorded each with some warm days and nights. Table 2: Weekly temperatures in March 2012 compared to the long-term monthly average March 2012 by week 1st – 8th 9th –16th 17th – 24th 25th – 31st Long-term average
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Mean and deviation from LTA (°C) 13.7 -2.3 15.2 -0.8 17.1 +1.1 13.8 -2.2 16.0
Mean maximum and deviation from LTA (°C) 18.4 -3.1 20.8 -0.8 22.0 +0.5 20.0 -1.5 21.5
The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough
Mean minimum and deviation from LTA (°C) 9.1 -1.4 9.5 -1.0 12.1 +1.6 7.6 -2.9 10.5
year. Blenheim has not experienced a ground frost in March since 2004. The 26th March 2012 came close, with a ground temperature of -0.1°C. The temperature has to be -1.0°C or below to record a ground frost. Blenheim has not recorded an air frost in March since 1949, when two were recorded. However, before I receive howls of protest, let me point out that as the Blenheim weather station site is at the eastern side of the vineyard area it is warmer than all the other vineyard weather station sites that we monitor on the Wairau plains that are further from the coast. The Blenheim weather station has averaged 1.3 ground frosts and 0.2 air frosts in April over the period 19862011. It has been a few years since Marlborough has suffered any extensive autumn frost damage while grapes were still on the vine. Anzac day 2005 will probably come to mind for many people. Let us hope that 2012 is not such a year. However, with the 2012 harvest being very late, the risk of the grapes being frosted while still on the vine is higher than normal. Figure 1: Frost damage to Sauvignon blanc vines on 25 April 2005, just prior to harvest
Figure 3: Growing degree days for Blenheim: days ahead (+) or behind (-) average Growing Degree Day summation starting from 1 September
of 2012. Whakatane is also 41.6 hours ahead of Blenheim. Whakatane recorded 233.9 hours sunshine in March, Nelson 211.6 and Blenheim 192.5. Table 3: Blenheim sunshine hours over the summer of 2011/2012 compared to the long-term average December
167.4 = 83rd of 83 Lowest on record
261
270.7 = 33rd of 83
February
227
133.6 = 83rd of 83 Lowest on record
215
192.5 = 71st of 83
Jan to Feb
Sunshine March 2012 continued the trend of the summer months with well below average sunshine hours. The March sunshine total was the lowest on record for Blenheim since 1987 (lowest in the past 25 years). The first half of March continued with the very overcast conditions that had been experienced in February. The sunshine Growing degree-days total for the first 15 days of March was As indicated in Winepress last month only 71.3 hours. Had that overcast the current season is the coolest since weather continued for the rest of the 1996/1997. The average temperature for month then March would have followed the seven months September 2011 to in February’s footsteps and recorded its March 2012 was 14.8°C, the same as in lowest total on record. Fortunately the 1996/1997; 0.5°C below the long-term sun emerged in the latter two weeks of average of 15.3°C. March and 121.3 hours was recorded from 16th to 31st; Figure 2: Blenheim soil moisture (5-35 cm depth) under a or 7.58 hours per mown grass surface with no irrigation. day, which was above the long-term average. Unfortunately Blenheim’s run to reclaim the sunniest town in New Zealand title has made a disastrous start in 2012. At the end of March, Nelson is 68.9 hours ahead of Blenheim for the first three months
2011/2012 and rank
246
January
March
Soil temperature Soil temperatures were also well below average for March 2012 as a result of lower air temperatures and solar radiation. However, the soil temperatures were still well above critical temperatures at which pasture growth would slow down or stop.
LTA
Total 486.8
404.3 = 79th of 83
Jan to March Total 705.8
596.8 = 81st of 83
Dec to Feb
Total 732.7
571.7 = 82nd of 82 Lowest on record
Dec to March Total 951.7
764.2 = 82nd of 82 Lowest on record
Rainfall Almost all of March’s rainfall of 58.6 mm was received on two days; 2nd with 28.0 mm and 21st with 23.4 mm. Total rainfall for January to March 2012 is 122.2 mm compared to the long-term average of 141 mm. 2012 is about 40 mm ahead of both 2011 (82.6 mm) and 2010 (79.8 mm). Soil moisture Rain on the 2nd and 21st March kept the shallow soil moisture (5-35 cm depth) about 10% above average (Figure 2); 28.3% compared to the long-term average for March of 18.6%. Rob Agnew Plant & Food Research
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Marketing Matters A Letter to the Prime Minsiter. where a special license is currently
Dear Prime Minister,
for cellar door operations as being a
Thank you for taking the time to visit
low risk and a unique sales category.
Marlborough on 1st March and to review
Estimates of sales volumes are as low
• The wish for excise to be removed from
our tourism sector during your visit to
as 12 – 18 bottles of wine per week at
wines that are used as sample stock at
the Blenheim I-Site and Omaka Aviation
small cellar doors. Furthermore most
a cellar door for legitimate education
Heritage Centre.
operators would acknowledge their
and promotional reasons – perhaps up
I mentioned briefly some of the below to
cellar door business is break-even at
your press secretary during the above
best
component of your day but wanted to
• The ARB will entitle a full cost recovery
required
to a limit per annum • There is the serious possibility of cellar doors closing if the ARB does not
address the potential impacts the Alcohol
model for local licensing authorities
take in any of the above with adverse
Reform Bill (ARB) will have in this region
and see dramatic increases in
consequences for both employment
around wine tourism and cellar door
administration costs as a result of
operations in Marlborough.
local alcohol plans. These two factors
We do not believe any of the above
Wine and tourism are closely linked in
will not be offset by so-called “risk
would lead to harmful consumption and
this region and the potential for licensing
based fee structures” and instead
instead these points are motivated by
costs to sky-rocket under the new
dramatically increase compliance
the fear of rising administrative costs, a
legislation is one that could force the
costs and significantly impact on cellar
narrow definition of off licenses and their
closure of many of this region’s cellar
door viability
impacts on regional tourism.
doors. Cellar Doors are a significant
• In the ARB, cellar doors have the
and tourism in the Marlborough region
I hope the above has given you further
regional employer, with 43 currently
same requirements to abide by as a
awareness of these issues and I welcome
operating. These cellar doors play
licensee potentially selling vastly more
any feedback or dialogue.
a major role in tourism here in New
alcohol (of any type). For example, it
Yours faithfully,
Zealand’s largest wine region.
would be ideal if manager’s certificates
Marcus Pickens
The largest share of cellar door operators
requirements could be altered to reflect
(reflecting the industry overall) are owner/
the low risk environment cellar doors
operator small wineries. Many of them rely heavily on sales directly over the
operate in • The ARB makes no provision for
counter, predominantly to wine tourists,
extending the licence term for the
where they make realistic margins,
cellar door category so any increased
engage with customers directly and sell
licensing costs could be offset over
the region and country with their stories
a longer time period. Also there is
of farming the land and making wines we
no consideration of extending the
are world famous for.
activities that a cellar door off premise
Our points of concern can be listed as
license permits them to undertake,
follows;
such as selling wines at small regional
• The ARB doesn’t make any provision
events such as a local farmers market
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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough
Marlborough’s Organic Focus Vineyard TESSA NICHOLSON
Wither Hills is one of three vineyards taking part in the national Organic Focus Vineyard project, funded by the Sustainable Farming Fund and New Zealand Winegrowers. Announced last year, Wither Hills
pruned to 2 cane VSP, with a planting
occurrence in conversion blocks, but is
Vineyards is the Marlborough component
density of 2525 vines/hectare. (The
likely to be temporary as the vines dig
of the project, with Mission Estate in
organic Pinot Noir has been under this
deeper into the soil profile.)
Hawkes Bay and Gibbston Valley Wines
management programme for nearly two
In terms of the Sauvignon Blanc, the
in Central Otago the other two. One of the
years.)
canopy growth in the organic block
goals is to provide realistic information,
The Sauvignon Blanc sites are both 1.73
was less than in the conventional, but
whilst educating industry members
hectares, planted in 1999, and pruned to
the fruit maturity was on a par. Berry
keen to know more about the process of
4 cane VSP with planting density again of
samples taken just prior to the field
organics.
2525 vines/hectare.
day, showed no noticeable difference
At each focus vineyard site, an organic
Viticultural Technician Jacqueline
between conventional and organic in
block is being compared, side by
Maclaurin is managing the project at
the Sauvignon Blanc. But there was a
side, to a conventional vineyard block
Wither Hills and has been behind the
three brix difference in the Pinot Noir,
growing the same grape varieties. Vine
three field days held at the vineyard since
with the organic being further behind.
and soil health, harvest yields and
the project was announced.
(The exact opposite has been the case
vineyard operating costs are being
At the latest event, (held at the end of
in Hawkes Bay at Mission Estate, with
monitored throughout the three year
February,) she delivered some of the
the organic block being ahead in terms
project, to provide a direct comparison
latest results, emphasising how the
of soluble solids, when compared with
between conventional and organic
findings are only preliminary at this stage.
the conventional. The Marlborough
growing regimes. Each year wine will
Scientific results will come at a later date.
results may have more to do with weather
be made from the trial blocks, with a
“In the Pinot Noir the organically
conditions or site.)
scientific comparison of the wines being
managed block has been behind the
The slower growth in the Pinot organic
undertaken in the final year.
conventional block from bud burst
block, did throw up a number of
In the case of Marlborough, Wither Hills
through to veraison. I believe that the
positives, Jacqueline says.
Vineyards are comparing Pinot Noir
under vine weeding may have had an
“In terms of leaf plucking, the
and Sauvignon Blanc on the company’s
impact on the growth rate – having done
conventional Pinot Noir has had two
Taylor River vineyard. Both the organic
four passes with the scallop edged
machine passes (Collard and Gregoire)
and conventional Pinot Noir blocks are
mounding disc cutting the surface
and one hand pluck. The organic Pinot
just over 2 hectares, planted in 2008 and
feeder roots.” (This is not an uncommon
Noir has only had a light Collard pass,
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due to the light canopy growth which has
This season’s canopy spray programme
Jacqueline will continue to monitor fruit
also followed onto no canopy trimming
is a reflection of Wither Hills’ stringent
and comparing organic and conventional
needing to be done this season. In
management strategy. Jacqueline says
harvest dates alongside berry weights,
the Sauvignon Blanc, leaf plucking
they have chosen to use sprays which
brix, pH and TA.
was the same with both organic and
may be slightly more expensive, but are
There will be a further field day in winter,
conventional undergoing one Collard and
known to be effective.
when the costs of both regimes will be
two Hills passes. In terms of trimming
“For example we have chosen to use
available and ready to be presented.
the organic block had only one trim and
Serenade Max for botrytis control over
Tim Jenkins who has been monitoring
the conventional Sauvignon Blanc three.
the flowering period and pre-bunch
each site for soil effects – water, structure
(This is something that showed up in
closure in our organic blocks and Switch
and biodiversity will present his results.
Hawkes Bay’s trial block last year, with
at flowering and pre-bunch closure in the
Fruition will also present findings from
the organic blocks
their monitoring of
requiring less
soil moisture, pest
trimming than the
and disease levels
conventional.)
and nutrient levels in
“Under organic
soil, leaf and petiole
management we
samples.
have chosen to
In the meantime,
use an undervine
Jacqueline is keen
weeder, and in
to hear from anyone
a season such
who has attended
as this year, with
the recent field
a high rainfall in
days, about what
December, we have
information they
done more passes
are keen to receive
than we would have
regarding the
hoped. But that
project.
was a necessity to control the weeds
“The field days are Wither Hills Taylor River Vineyard, part of the Organic Focus programme.
under vine and
an important part of the project, we want
make certain vineyard tasks such as bud
conventional blocks. Through our own
as many people to continue attending
rubbing easier whilst reducing any further
company pest and disease monitoring
as possible. But we want to be able to
competition with the vines.
during the season we have also sprayed
deliver what it is people want or need. So
in response to disease threshold levels
I am keen to hear what it is people would
passes with the scallop edged mounding
reached. We have set the thresholds and
like to see presented.”
disc to date and is likely to get one more
so have kept a tight spray programme
with the blades to cut down the mound
for powdery mildew cover in response
and dislodge any further weeds. When
to this – a cover spray, typically Kumulus
we did the first pass with the disk each
and Protector every 10 – 14 days or
For regular updates on the three Organic
row was driven twice to break up the soil
extending this out when the weather
Focus Vineyard projects, visit: http://
that has been compacted on the edge
allows. With downy mildew showing up in
organicfocusvineyard.com
of the wheel tracks over the past 11 – 12
Marlborough in January, we have put on
years.”
further cover sprays such as Copper.”
“The Sauvignon Blanc has had three
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To contact Jacqueline, email her at: Jacqueline@witherhills.co.nz
Tony Laithwaite TESSA NICHOLSON
The co owner of one of the world’s largest specialist home delivery wine services, Tony Laithwaite is one of the greats of the modern wine industry, and recently visited Marlborough. The Laithwaite story began back in 1968, when as a young under graduate with a passion for the image of a French harvest, Tony headed to Bordeaux to clean bottles in a small winery. He fell in love with more than the image of a vintage, as the wines themselves began to weave their magic around him. Before long he was bringing cases of Bordeaux back to England in his van to sell to unknown customers. Utilising the phone book he rang potential clients, inviting them to a tasting and quickly established a system of sending letters out to clients who may be interested in purchasing wine. Before long his van wasn’t big enough to cater for the demand and he established Bordeaux Direct and opened his first wine warehouse, “under a railway arch, in Windsor.” Bordeaux Direct was the beginnings of an empire, now known as Laithwaite Wines, which sells to more than one million customers, owns wine bars and shops throughout the world, has a turnover in excess of £250m, and employs more than 1000 people. Tony and wife Barbara also own a number of vineyards in Bordeaux and England. He credits the huge success, to the partnership formed between himself and the Sunday Times newspaper, back in 1973. That allowed him to have a regular column in the paper, which at the time was read by 4 million, well educated, higher income people. The columns
were also a means of establishing the Sunday Times Wine Club, where readers were offered the chance to purchase a dozen wines, as chosen by Tony. It was an instant success and still runs today, nearly 40 years later. (It is in fact unique and the longest running wine syndication in the world, and has expanded out to include the Wall Street Journal and The Australian.) The huge success led directly to establishment of the Sunday Times Vintage Festival, where thousands of club members were able to taste a carefully selected range of wines from around the world. It has to be remembered that at this stage, 30 years ago, the UK was dominated by European wines, with the new world yet to make its mark. Tony was determined to change that, and constantly travelled to try wines from emerging producers. He has clear memories of his first visits to New Zealand, in the early 80s, where he had to drink wine rather surreptitiously out of tea cups as it was an unaccepted form of alcohol. It was on one of these visits that he was first introduced to Marlborough and was taken by the wines of Ernie Hunter. Selecting three to take part in the Festival was the beginning of the UK’s love affair with Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. (See Box page 11.) He describes those early shows as some of the most exciting ever. “That was a period of great discovery
and it was us that was doing that. We were educating people with offers of new wines from say New Zealand, Australia, Chile or Bulgaria. It was the first time anyone had done that. Supermarkets were right behind us though. Being pre internet, they didn’t have a great way of communicating to customers, the newspapers were the only way. So we were like the pathfinders and they funded behind us and ramped up the sales tremendously.” The impact was felt the most by traditional European producers, with the end result being better wine all round. “The Europeans having been knocked for six by the new world are hitting back. They have changed a lot. Take Italy for example. When I started 40 years ago, Italy wasn’t in great shape wine wise. There were a few known wine names, but most of them weren’t particularly good and people tended to drink them only because of nostalgia. I found it almost impossible to sell Italian wines. Then they started trying to improve as appellation control started coming in and they are now punching above their weight. Spain also has revolutionised itself. Even Bordeaux has pulled its socks up. They used to rely on their famous name but they can’t do that any more. And other countries are beginning to pop their heads up. The new world wines have created that change.” There have been other changes too,
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which have come about because of the impact of new producers. Tony says the theory that people will stick to one variety all their lives, is no longer true. “I think consumers are looking for more interest in terms of variety and this generation in particular is much more prepared to try the unusual. In the past chaps would drink Claret from cradle to grave, and probably the same one, quite happily. Now they want excitement and something a little different. But having said that, they can still be quite cautious. They want to know that they will like it and we have to work hard to get them trying something very different. But at least they are trying it.” He says there is also a move away from heavy, high alcohol wines. “People are realising that if they drink a bottle of 15%, (alcohol) they can hardly walk. There is a very clear move to going back to wines of 12% or 13%.” Which in terms of Marlborough is an opening that could well be exploited. In terms of whether New Zealand should follow the European tradition of
appellation control, Tony is in two minds. “You want to be very careful. Yes in as much as it wouldn’t do any harm to make people know there are alternatives to Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, like Nelson or Hawkes Bay. But at the same time, in France even though it was done a long time ago, appellation was often done very badly. It allows winemakers in areas with a good appellation to be lazy and coast. That concerns me. You see a lot of wines at the top end of a wine list in a restaurant, that people will buy for a special occasion and it doesn’t taste any better than the cheap end of the wine list. That happens all the time, because it is a famous name. I think there is a lot to be said, that you rise and fall on your own name and you defend it. You therefore are under pressure every vintage to make the best possible wine, because you don’t want your business to suffer. “The trouble is if appellation is done wrongly and it has been done wrongly, people can get away with murder. I remember Henry, (Tony’s son who is a winemaker in Bordeaux) had the
Tony
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appellation controllers come round tasting all the wines. They tasted everything including a barrel of rejects, the dregs of the barrels. Henry didn’t mean them to taste that, but they did and they passed it. What does that say about appellation control?” For someone who has been there since the beginning of the Marlborough wine revolution, Tony believes the potential of a under supply this year could be our saving grace. “New Zealand is quite outstanding in all the wine nations of the world, in that your prices are so high. All the others are battling it out down low. You have been able to sit there quite smugly and say you are premium price. But then you get idiots going and planting far too much stuff and not in suitable areas. And we started to get some cheap wines in supermarkets and quite frankly it wasn’t very good. You need people to know they can totally rely on a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc as being fantastic. So you have to keep doing what you do really well, but don’t push it too far.”
Photo Jim Tannock
The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough
There have been many people who have helped forge the
deemed the favourite wine of the show by three groups of
career of Marlborough wines. People like John Avery, Oz
Wine Club members who had attended. That in itself was
Clarke and Hugh Johnson, have all played major roles. But
another first – no other wine had ever been selected as the
perhaps the one person this region needs to give thanks
winner, by three separate groups.
to, is Tony Laithwaite, It was this man, who in 1986 gave an
The Fume Blanc was included in the Sunday Times Wine
unknown Ernie Hunter from Marlborough, the opportunity to
Dozen offered to club members via mail order. Plus Ernie
submit three wines to the Sunday Times Vintage Festival, in
was allowed for the first time ever, to promote all his
London. The Hunter’s wines were three of 350 pre-selected
Marlborough wines to club members, with his introductory
wines in the competition, representing 13 countries.
offer prefaced by Hugh Johnson.
It was a first for a New Zealand wine to be allowed to
Tony says it was the beginning of the Marlborough revolution,
take part in the competition and Laithwaite’s faith was
which was quickly followed by other producers, including
well rewarded. The Hunter’s Fume Blanc 1985, (oak aged
Montana and Cloudy Bay. The UK consumer palate was
Sauvignon Blanc) took out the gold medal for best non-
piqued and since then Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has
Chardonnay full dry white wine of the show. It was also
been a major hit.
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International Cool Climate Symposium MIKE TROUGHT AND BRIAN JORDAN
The 8th ICCS was held in Tasmania at the end of January. Among the many New Zealanders who took part were Mike Trought from Plant and Food in Marlborough and Brian Jordan from Lincoln University. As always, the programme started with a
provides the complexity of flavour and
Destemming and then crushing fruit
discussion on “how do you define a cool
aroma in wine. This raises the question,
before fermentation caused an eight-fold
climate viticulture region?” Defining a
‘If the fruit is too uniform, it may be
increase in wine thiol concentrations.
cool climate region is a little like defining
boring?’” However, he commented that
Freezing the juice pre-fermentation
pornography: everyone recognises it
variation must be managed, and the
had little effect on thiols but resulted in
when seen, but it is difficult to quantify
principal source of variation was likely
changes in the ester concentrations.
and describe. Jancis Robinson in her
to be between bunches and this could
While freezing juice may not be winery
opening address suggested that cool
possibly be a reflection of differences in
practice, it is frequently used by
climate regions could be defined as;
primordia development at initiation, some
researchers to spread out workload. It is
“Those that have lower alcohol, are
15 months before harvest.
therefore important to know the effect it
refreshing and easier to match with food.
Tasmanian researchers Anna Carew and
may have on wine composition.
I want a wine that refreshes me. While
Bob Dambergs discussed the use of
Four papers investigating various aspects
the American mass market wants high
alternative yeast strains and maceration
of sparkling wine production provided
alcohol, turbo-charged wines, they are
methods on Pinot Noir production. The
an interesting discussion on alternative
steadily moving to refreshing cool climate
Tasmanian researchers and industry
processing methods, and in particular
wines. The international industry is
are very focused on Pinot Noir . With a
how regions like Champagne may
responding to this by planting vineyards
total grape production of only 10,000 T,
have to face up to the consequences
in cooler regions,” and she cited
most locally-made wine (about 80%) is
of climate change. Champagne has
Argentina and Chile as good examples
consumed within Tasmania. However,
played an integral part in French history
of countries planting vineyards further
there are obviously opportunities for
and legislation provides a degree of
south.
good collaboration between Tasmanian
protection to that identity. This is being
The first technical session focused on
and New Zealand researchers; we have
maintained in an ever-changing global
vineyard variability. Richard Smart,
similar challenges.
wine market and provides security to
as always, provided some thought-
Claire Grose, research winemaker at
that industry, often envied by other
provoking insight into sources of fruit
the Marlborough Wine Research Centre
wine regions of the world. How this is
variation in the vineyard. “Wine is a
described research undertaken on
maintained in the face of changes in the
mixture of non-homogeneous grapes,
the influence of fruit processing on
ripening patterns of fruit will only become
which when managed within reason
Sauvignon Blanc wine composition.
clear in time.
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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough
10mm 20
50
Peter Dry, well known to the wine industry, described some alternative varieties that may be suitable for cooler climates.
60
He commented on the limited range of commercial varieties
70
being used at present and how alternative varieties may provide a point of interest and lower alcohol concentrations to a wine portfolio. For example, he suggested that the Italian varieties Greco, Perricone, Vermentino and the Austrian variety Grüner Veltliner may be particularly suitable for the Asian market, and Agiorgitiko (Greece), Corvina and Dolcetto (Italy) might be potential varieties to produce reduced-alcohol wines. Ross Brown (Brown Brothers Vineyard) described how their
80 90 100 110 120
company had identified the medium and long-term threat of
Albariño
climate change to their wine portfolio and how, by investing in Tasmanian vineyards, they anticipated mitigating that threat early on. In particular, he described how consistency of supply and quality was important. He emphasised that; “Two good years in five is not sustainable and there is a need to monitor changes in fashion. The wine industry appears to have a 15year cycle, Cabernet Sauvignon in the 1970s, Chardonnay in the 1980s and Sauvignon Blanc in the late 1990s. The forces that drive change are predominantly technical, geographic and fashion change (consumer taste). Only the best of the best survive beyond 15 years”. He suggested that Pinot Noir “ticks the boxes” in terms of the next style, technical and geographic change, but the wines must be price-appropriate to gain consumer acceptance. He suggested that to achieve
NEW ZEALAND’S LARGEST SELECTION OF CLASSIC VARIETIES & NEW IMPORTS
this, Tasmania was clearly an identifiable region and capable of being the finest in the Southern Hemisphere, but all producers must strive to achieve this goal. He introduced the term “coopertition” – co-operation with a common focus and pursuit of excellence. Reflecting on the overall conference, what was particularly satisfying was the role and impact New Zealand researchers and industry played in the success of the conference. Fully
GO TO
www.riversun.co.nz 0800 11 37 47
50% of the oral presentations were from New Zealand-based scientists and industry. Of the 50 posters, 11 were from New Zealand, including “Predicting regional and sub-regional grapevine yields in Marlborough” by Mike Trought, which received the award of the “Best Poster”. As ICCS Project Officer Imogen Fullagar commented, “We were quite humbled by the outstanding New Zealand support. Notwithstanding my being a big New Zealand fan, New Zealand participated with every enthusiasm and was represented in bright flashing lights that delegates really could not fail to notice.”
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Simon Bishell Caythorpe
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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough
Generation Y-ine BY TESSA NICHOLSON
Simon Bishell If there is one thing that Simon Bishell
Caythorpe is 191 hectares and these
stage had 30 hectares of grapes and it
will be forever grateful for, it’s that his
days 95 of those hectares are planted
was clear that was the direction for the
grandfather didn’t sell the family farm to
in vines. The first vines, 4 hectares of
farm’s future. I realised I had a fantastic
Montana back in 1973.
Bactobel Pinot Noir (for sparkling) were
opportunity here and with my love of
Now the fifth generation Bishell to be
planted in 1987. Another 4 hectares of
science, viticulture was a great way to
working on the Caythorpe property,
Sauvignon Blanc were planted a year
morph both together.”
Simon realises it could have all been very
later, all on their own rootstock. Those
Enrolled into the Lincoln Viticulture and
different if his grandfather had taken up
original savvy vines are still producing,
Oenology degree, Simon was never really
the initial offer. He says Caythorpe was
despite the phylloxera outbreak of the
swayed by the possibility of becoming a
the first parcel of land in Marlborough
90s.
winemaker. Being on the land was more
Montana approached to buy, but Mervyn
“Those vines produce some of the best
his cup of tea.
decided he wanted more money than the
flavour profiles of the entire vineyard,”
“I know that is strange, because I love
company was offering. Montana weren’t
Simon says.
science and chemistry. But to be really
prepared to pay and instead bought a
Despite the family tradition – Simon never
honest, in my younger days I didn’t
tract of land bordering on Caythorpe
had a yearning to become a man of the
have a palate to appreciate fine wines,
ensuring the mixed cropping and sheep
land. He was set on becoming a pilot,
which was part of the reason I swayed
farm stayed in the family.
but was told by an Airforce recruiter, that
away from the winemaking side of
“So I am very grateful to my grandfather
cadets were seldom taken straight from
things. Looking back that was not a valid
that he asked for more than they were
school. So he decided to come back to
reason, given how few people aged 18
prepared to pay per acre.”
the farm after school and bide his time
or 19 have any palate. I now know it’s
Even when the first grapes were planted
until he could apply. With high marks in
something that grows.
on the neighbouring property, there was
maths and sciences, he was accepted
“Also I had to do some practical work in
no indication the Bishell family would ever
into the Airforce select camp a year later
wineries during the degree and I have
follow suit. In fact Simon’s father Murray
– but missed out in the final selection.
to say I thoroughly enjoyed it. But it
is known to have stated; “There would
Which in hindsight was a positive, given
made me appreciate how much I liked
never be a day that he would see grapes
the Labour Government scrapped
working outside even more. It began to
planted on this property.”
the combat wing of the Airforce within
do my head in, working indoors, I really
Simon is eternally grateful that Murray
months of his rejection.
struggled.”
didn’t let that statement stop him from
“So it was onto plan B. What do I do now?
Gaining his Viticulture degree Simon
seeing the vineyard potential of the
I had loved science, so I began thinking
chose to continue studying for another
Fairhall land once prices for wheat and
about doing a degree at Canterbury. But
year, undertaking a Graduate Diploma in
barley dropped dramatically.
in the back of my mind, I kept thinking
Commerce.
– where to from there? The farm at that
“I always had the ambition and still do, to
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maybe one day do our own product. I like
a champion for lower yields.
Having entered it three times beginning
the thought of having total control over a
“We have to make sure we don’t treat
in 2006, he sees the competition as a
product, through the whole chain, from
wine grapes like a commodity. The longer
fantastic opportunity.
grapes to the wine. That was part of it,
people do that, the less there will be
“One thing I really enjoy is it gives
but then again maybe I also wasn’t ready
for future generations to enjoy. We do
viticulturists a chance to be recognised.
to enter the big working world again,” he
have a fantastic product and if we treat it
I see all the wine awards, apart from
jokes.
properly we will have a good income for
Bragato, where the credit always goes
While it was a far cry from his love of
to the winemaker. There’s nothing
outdoors and sciences, Simon feels
wrong with that. But it’s nice to see
the commerce degree opened his eyes to the world of business and the challenges involved. By December 2004, he was back, full time on the farm, working alongside his father and older brother Scott. Both siblings had already planted out their own vineyards at Caythorpe, and gained supply contracts. It was an opportunity not many young vitiuclturists have and Simon says it provided him with first hand experience at the coal face of the industry. Those early years were the golden ones, when companies
“The farm at that stage had 30 hectares of grapes and it was clear that was the direction for the farm’s future. I realised I had a fantastic opportunity here.”
the person responsible for getting the best fruit, is also acknowledged. And let’s be honest, in my age group viticulture is not seen to be the most fashionable occupation, as opposed to winemaking. “So that was one reason I entered the competition. But I’m also the type of person who likes to challenge myself, and the competition certainly challenged me.” In his first year he gained third place, behind Marcus Wickham and Nigel Sowman. Second year he was runner up, behind Sowman and in his third
couldn’t get enough grapes to meet
year he took out the Marlborough
their orders. But that all changed
title. Every year, he felt he gained
in 2009/2010. The price paid for fruit
many years to come.”
something new.
dropped dramatically and people were
The cyclic ups and downs are nothing
“Often in this job, we know what our
trying to get their head around the fact
new to the Bishell family. Every single one
strengths are, because those are the
they could no longer grow as much as
of the five generations to farm the land
things we love doing. But it’s not until
they liked, Simon included.
has seen similar cycles and Simon is
you enter a competition like the Young
“We went for so long where wineries
pretty philosophical about the future.
Viticulturist that you are faced with
would effectively take every last grape
“It’s happened to every other horticulture/
everything that encompasses the growing
you could produce and essentially
agriculture boom in New Zealand, so it’s
of grapes. Not just the theoretical side
overnight that whole psyche went out the
nothing new. For us as a family, we aren’t
of things, but the practical and financial
window. It took me a while to get my head
in this for the short term, we are here for
side. It really pushes your knowledge. A
around it, but I realised if I still wanted
the long haul so we just have to ride it out
lot of people in my shoes might be good
a future here for the next generation,
and cope the best we can.”
at six out of the eight disciplines, but not
then I had to concentrate on quality, not
In recent years Simon has been one
the other two. It wasn’t until I entered the
quantity.”
of the stalwarts of the local Young
first time that I realised what areas I was
Those years of oversupply has made him
Viticulturist of the Year competition.
really poor at.”
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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough
One of those areas that showed up
I wasn’t the only one who felt way out of
know that we have done all we can for
his own deficiencies was the pruning
my depth.”
the best quality and the rest we have no
module. Simon says while he was used
Pushed by the Hawkes Bay competitor,
control over.”
to pruning, he realised he wasn’t as
Simon says he was never totally confident
As a fifth generation farmer, Simon
knowledgeable about the finer technical
of winning.
feels very privileged. As he has thrown
points as he could be.
“But he got announced in second place
himself into the world of viticulture, he
“That was because everything was
and I thought then that I could have been
is constantly reminded that it is his
driven by getting as much fruit as you
in with a sniff. I was pretty excited, I can
fore fathers that have given him that
could supply, so it was four canes and
tell you.”
opportunity.
fill her up. So consequently I had never
While he didn’t manage the trifecta
“Following a family tradition is an honour.
had to learn too much about the science
of taking out the Young Horticulturist
This property has been in my family for
of it. Plus I had never actually travelled
competition, he did pick up the
132 years. I want it to still be there in
in terms of a work sense and I had no
Commerce award (for an idea of using
another 132.”
experience of how limiting the number
grape marc to create biofuel) and the
of buds for quality fruit was paramount. I
speech award.
had only worked here in Marlborough and
Since then Simon has been on
only knew the Marlborough way – which
the organising committee for the
at that time was grow as much as you
Marlborough competition and is keen to
can. So that was something that I came
see more young people take part.
away with knowing I needed to work on.”
“Seriously you can never improve if
By 2008, Simon had more years under
you don’t identify the areas where
his belt, more experience and was more
you are weak. This competition helps
than prepared for whatever the local
you find those areas. It is an amazing
competition organisers could throw at
opportunity.”
him.
Despite the relatively short time frame
“I felt confident, but you never know what
Simon has been involved in the industry,
the day can throw at you.”
he believes he has seen the best and the
Winning the local competition, meant
worst. He rates the 2006 vintage as the
he then had to prepare for the National
best ever.
Viticulturist, which was a big step up.
“It was all over by the end of March. The
“The first module was an irrigation,
fruit was clean, there was no disease
water management module. We had 45
threat and everything went smoothly.
minutes to complete it and I think I only
Nothing relieves stress like an early
completed a third of it. The questions
vintage.”
were basically pitched at people with
In that case, I joke he must be under
a degree in engineering. I walked out
a little stress currently, given how
of that first module thinking, “I’m done,
much later this year’s vintage is, when
it’s over. There’s no way I can win this
compared with the previous few years.
competition now.” But then I got to
“No, I’m not worried, I’m an optimist.
discuss with the other competitors what
There is nothing we can do from now on,
they felt about that module, and I realised
that will affect fruit maturity. We have to
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Wine Visitor TESSA NICHOLSON
Canadian buyer Jim Jaworski is impressed with Marlborough’s Pinots. Jim is the President of Kenaston Wine
$40 range that are really good. There are
Kenaston Wine Market being one. There
Market, based in Manitoba – a province
a lot at around $30, which to me is the
are limitations though, as they can sell
of just over 1.3 million people, with the
sweet spot.”
wine, but only wine. There is no ability
largest city of Winnipeg being the 8th
He said many of the Marlborough Pinots
to sell beer or spirits. And in Manitoba
largest in Canada.
he tried at a Wine Marlborough tasting,
and eight other provinces in Canada,
Jim’s visit to New Zealand last month
had nice mid weight and a lot of colour,
supermarkets are not allowed to sell
was his first ever, and he said he was
and described them as having good fruit,
alcohol of any sort.
expecting to see quality Sauvignon
without being over powering. “They fit
Dealing with a buyer who has a private
Blanc, but wasn’t prepared for the
the profile that the Canadian market is
license is certainly the way to go, he
number of other varieties that make up
looking for.”
said, as they deal directly with the winery,
this country’s portfolio.
While travelling round New Zealand,
rather than with agents, importers and
“People love good wines and they are
Jim was also impressed with Syrahs in
distributors. That can be very appealing
always clamouring for something new
Waiheke and Hawkes Bay, and some
to smaller wineries.
and exciting,” he said. “And based on
of the aromatics here in Marlborough,
“That is where we offer something very
what I have seen so far, this country
particularly Gewurztraminer. However he
different. We are not looking for huge
has some incredibly new and exciting
felt the Pinot Gris “were all over the map. I
volumes, instead we would prefer to take
products in the pipeline, that once they
think you are still trying to find your place
smaller parcels, which gives a winery
get distributed out to the world more
with this variety.” Riesling he said is not
international exposure without them
substantially, is going to wake a lot of
an easy sell in Canada and Chardonnay
having to lose their entire stock. Our
people up.”
is still trying to remerge from the ABC
market is mid to top end, and we supply
In particular, Jim believed Marlborough
image of a decade ago. Sauvignon Blanc
a number of high end restaurants.”
Pinot Noir was a very good fit for his
though was a very popular wine and he
While still a small importer of New
market in Manitoba.
said it was impressive to see the range of
Zealand wine, the growth in Canada is
“Currently we have some real low end
styles now emerging in Marlborough.
impressive. In 2008, 3.558 million litres
Pinot Noirs, which are probably coming
But exporting to Canada can be trying.
of wine was exported to that part of the
from Chile and California. Some are
Each of the ten provinces has different
world. The latest figures from NZW show
drinkable, but they are not all that exciting
rules, but Jim said the one thing they all
that has increased to 5.738 million litres
or faithful to their varietal character. Then
have in common is the Liquor Boards,
in 2011.
beyond that you are into the French
which are government entities. They
Burgundies and higher end California
have the only legal jurisdiction to import
Pinots. But most of those wines tend to
alcoholic beverages. However in some
be $40 and up. So we have the cheapies
provinces, such as Manitoba, there is a
and then the high end. I think where
private sector that has been licensed to
Marlborough specifically fits, is there are
re-sell alcohol. Only six private licenses
a bunch of Pinots between that $20 and
have been granted in Manitoba, with
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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough
Straw Wine TESSA NICHOLSON
Is the creation of a straw wine in Marlborough innovative or traditional? It’s a bit of a conundrum how to describe
grapes had reached between 36 and 39
received rave reviews, as wine that is;
the first release from newly formed wine
brix.”
“Sweet and concentrated, yet not cloying
company Eureka, given the process of
While the brix levels rose, the acid, pH
because the natural acidity of the grapes
making Straw Wine isn’t new, in fact it’s
and TA remained the same as when first
ensures a fresh, lively citrusy finish.”
hundreds of years old. Yet the production
picked. After five weeks, the fruit was
(From wine reviewer Sue Courtney.)
is one that has rarely been seen in this
then de stemmed and soaked in its own
Eureka is a new wine company,
part of the wine making world.
juice for 24 hours. Then it was fermented,
with just two wines in its current
Eureka owners Stephen Rae and Hugh
half in American oak, the other half in
portfolio. The Straw Wine Marlborough
Girling are not the first New Zealanders to
French oak. It was finally bottled five
Sauvignon Blanc and the Marlborough
utilise the traditional straw wine method,
months later.
Gewurztraminer, both 2011. Both Rae
but they could well be the only ones
The very limited wine has already
and Girling are adamant they want to
currently using it.
create wines that stand out and fit
The wine’s name relates to the
the company’s name.
way the fruit is treated. Bunches
The success of their initial
of Sauvignon Blanc were carefully
Straw Wine Sauvignon Blanc
hand picked at 21 brix, and
has now got them thinking
placed into bins in single layers.
about what other varieties could
Each bunch had to be as pristine
be processed in this age old
as possible, to ensure no berries
tradition. Pinot Noir is one they are
harboured botrytis potential.
hopeful of making this year.
After hand picking the bunches
“We would like to trial as many
were then laid out on beds of
different varieties as we can,
straw inside a glass house to
Girling said. “We are also looking
provide a stable environment
at making a straw Pinot Gris, as
and left to dry for five weeks. The
well as a standard Pinot Gris, then
straw, which is anti microbial,
we might try a partial combination.
provides a moisture absorbing
Not everything we do will work,
surface, while also allowing air
we realise that. But we want to
circulation around the bunches.
experiment, be innovative, and
“Basically in that five weeks
see where it takes us.”
the grapes begin to resemble
“But at the same time we don’t
sultanas, although they retain their
want people to think we are being
original colour,” winemaker Girling
radical for the sake of it, said Rae. “What we want is to push the
said. “We picked at between 21 and 23 brix, but after drying the
A single layer of bunches are laid out on straw to dry.
boundaries.”
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Respected Company Man Heads South TESSA NICHOLSON
Brancott Estate’s South Island Regional Manager, Peter McLeod is saying goodbye to the wine industry and hello to rebuilding Christchurch. For someone who had no background
Many other local growers followed and
staff numbers and provide financial
in the wine industry, Peter McLeod has
within a short period of time he was
management.
certainly made a mark in Marlborough.
managing 180 growers based throughout
“I knew that cost control would be on
For many local growers, he was the face
New Zealand. Those were the heady
the radar in the corporate environment
of Montana, (now Pernod Ricard) during
days, when contracted fruit was fetching
and a large percentage of our operating
the early 2000s, as the company’s grower
between $2200 and $2500 a tonne. But
budget was spent on casual and contract
liaison manager.
it wasn’t always easy getting people on
labour. There was a huge supply/demand
It was a time of exponential growth
side, he recalls.
imbalance; given there was 2,000 to
for the company and industry overall.
“I had to drink lots of cups of tea and
3,000 hectares of vineyards going in
McLeod’s task was to increase the
there was a considerable amount of
each year. We were churning through 750
grower base, in line with the growth of
negotiation work involved. I guess
casual pruners a season and the average
the company’s markets. While he had
because there was always a slight
stay was about three to four weeks. So
never lived in Marlborough, (originating
distrust of a larger company.”
the vineyard managers were training
from Canterbury) he did have a sound
Following the buy out of Montana by
staff, and then it would start snowing
knowledge of the wine industry here and
Allied Domecq, Mike Insley left his role
in Central Otago and the staff would all
many of its growers. That came from his
as South Island Regional Manager, to
want to take off and go skiing.”
days as an agri business manager with
take up a role in California. McLeod was
Putting it into perspective, the company
Rabobank.
offered the job – and it was one that
was pruning over 4 million vines a year.
One of the first growers he signed up was
appealed to him.
McLeod says it was a hugely frustrating
Peter Yealands, whom he had worked
“I wanted to get experience in a large
period for the vineyard managers and
with through Rabobank during his deer
scale vineyard operation. And I had
a costly time for the company. In an
and forestry ventures at Kaiuma. McLeod
a hankering to get back to the South
effort to lure people to the job, Allied
had also been instrumental in assisting
Island.”
Domecq instigated the campaign entitled
Yealands in the purchase of his very first
But he wasn’t sure he had the skills to
“Wanted to Strip,” aimed at backpackers
vineyard property – at Grovetown.
take on that role. “I felt I had a good
and seasonal workers. It was highly
“It was a pretty scruffy property, but
business background but lacked
successful, but still didn’t overcome the
when Peter began talking about what
viticultural experience.” The powers
issue of transient workers who wanted to
he wanted to do with it, I could see the
that be convinced him there was plenty
move on once the ski season opened.
potential. He jokes with me now that him
of expertise on the ground, what was
It was around this time that the RSE
getting into the wine industry was all my
required though was someone who
system was emerging and McLeod knew
fault.”
could lead the business with the large
the company wasn’t in the position to
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provide pastoral care to
that moves the needle
the number of workers
in a large vineyard
they would require. So
operation.”
they sub-contracted
Given his task was
Seasonal Solutions,
to cut costs without
based out of Central
compromising quality,
Otago, to provide the
McLeod says he feels
RSE workers and the
he has achieved his
care. The impact of
goals. So now it’s time to
that scheme has been
move on to something
immense, he said.
else. Which will see
“In 2008 we brought
him moving back to
in 130 RSE workers.
Christchurch, where
They were unskilled
he has taken up the
and un-work ready, but
GJ Gardiner franchise.
we backed ourselves
Ironically prior to going
with our training
to university, he was a
and supervision
chippie, so it’s almost like
programmes to develop
going full circle for him,
their skill set. So in 2008
as he heads back to the
we invested in the RSE
building industry. Plus
scheme for future years.
there is the advantage
And it has paid off. This
of being a part of the
year, 2012, is our fifth
Christchurch rebuild,
year and we are getting
which he is looking
a 75% return rate of
forward to.
those workers. They are
Not that he won’t miss his
now well skilled and well
role up here.
adjusted workers that
“I am really going to miss
we know we have for
harvest. It’s the best time
the whole season.”
of the year. You watch the
took between 15 and 20 cents a vine out
That has provided Pernod Ricard with
of the company’s pruning costs straight
fruit grow for 12 months and there is an
continuity, plus it has cut the cost of
away. That was a significant amount
incredible sense of satisfaction seeing it
continually having to train new casual
of money when you multiply it by the
come into the winery. It’s a large logistical
staff. In hard times such as the industry
number of vines we mechanically pruned.
challenge and everyone is under the
has felt for the past few years, that cost
Right away we were able to take costs
pump – but it is also incredibly rewarding.
cutting is a vital aspect for any company’s
out, without compromising the quality of
If you don’t get a buzz out of harvest, you
profitability.
our viticultural operations.
shouldn’t be in the industry. I can tell you,
However good the RSE scheme has been
“Following that the Klima was developed
I will be suffering harvest withdrawal this
though, McLeod believes the greatest
by Marcus Wickham. That has again
year.”
thing to happen to the wine industry in
revolutionised how we go about
But given he will be commuting for a
Marlborough is mechanisation of pruning.
mechanisation of that manual labour of
few more weeks, chances are he will be
“The Langlois and more recently the
stripping. It has taken another 10 to 15
poking his head into the winery to ensure
Klima are two of the smartest things seen
cents off that price again. We have up
his work of the past 12 months, is not
in the industry in 20 years. The Langlois
to 35 cents off the original price, and
going astray.
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Markham’s Business Confidence Survey Adverse weather conditions, bulk wine sales, volatile exchange rates, and the vagaries of fruit supply and demand are all dealing blows to an already fragile wine industry. Those are the results from the latest
the reduced vintage will create any
will take time to develop, there is an
Markham’s wine industry business
significant pricing comeback. Even with
optimism that such ventures will pay off in
confidence survey.
some industry players predicting lower
the longer term. Currently 47 percent of
“Trading conditions for the January
volumes for a further two seasons, the
respondents are exporting to China and
2012 quarter were actually worse than
fruit price is unlikely to rise to any great
Hong Kong, with 76 percent saying they
participants predicted when surveyed
degree, capped by the bulk wine strategy
are planning to export there in the next
in January 2011. There is little doubt
employed by many businesses still.
five years.
that the industry is facing tough
Bulk wine sales are also impacting on
Once again the biggest threat to the
times. This view is supported by the
profitability. “Bulk wine sales strategies
industry identified in the survey nationally
fact that less than half (43 percent)
are here to stay and we are seeing them
is the volatile and high exchange rate,
of survey participants expect trading
more often being used as an integral part
impacting export profitability. Although
conditions to improve in the coming 12
of a sales deal. Bulk wine is being used
many respondents remain positive about
months,” says Graeme Rhodes, national
as leverage, with wineries agreeing to
the opportunities new export markets
wine spokesperson of the chartered
supply in order to get their finished wines
may bring, some markets, particularly
accountancy group.
on supermarket shelves, particularly in
Europe and USA, were identified as
Whilst many wineries remain “carefully
export markets.”
becoming increasingly uncompetitive
optimistic” about the year ahead,
On a bright note, 44 percent of
due to the high New Zealand dollar.
nationally the poor weather conditions
respondents nationally are trading
On another note, there is a degree
have impacted on fruit volumes, with
profitably, up from the 38 percent that
of unrest throughout the industry
lower yields expected, particularly in
predicted they would be when surveyed
about some contract processors now
Marlborough. However the reduction
in January 2011. But with more than half
making and marketing their own wines,
in volume has had a positive effect with
of businesses surveyed reporting their
effectively competing against their winery
a number of grape growers without
business was not profitable due to being
customers. This situation may accelerate
contracts this year now being able to
in the early stages of development (26
the movement of mid-sized players to
secure supply contracts.
percent), margin pressure (14 percent),
merge and consolidate with others to
“For many growers with existing
pricing and increased costs (12 percent),
increase sales strength, and rationalise
agreements, the lower yields may mean a
and a lack of capital (12 percent), it is
distribution and infrastructure.
drop in income. The flip side is that some
clear that the difficult trading environment
growers are securing multiple year deals
remains.
The full survey report is available on the
from wineries to ensure continuity of
Asia is increasing in popularity as the
Markham’s website; www.markhams.
supply, which affords them a previously
export market with the most potential
co.nz
nebulous certainty of income,” Graeme
and, whilst it is acknowledged this market
says. Nevertheless, it appears unlikely that 22
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Rejuvenating Wine Barrels For the first time in New Zealand, technology garnered in Australia is being utilized to rejuvenate wine barrels. Vintech Pacific says the technology can extend the life of a barrel by three years. When you consider the cost of a new imported French oak barrique is around 800 euros per unit, extending the effective life of a previously past-its-usedby-date barrel makes good sense. Not only financially, but also environmentally. The best figures available indicate that close to 10,000 new wine barrels are imported to New Zealand each year – and an unknown quantity of used barrels that have already reached the end of their useful wine making lives that could be refurbished and re-used. Vintech Pacific has just introduced the patented, Australian barrel refurbishing technology under the brand Phoenix Diverse Barrrel Solutions. Through this technology, the life of a used barrel can be extended for up to three years. The Phoenix process is centred on computer scanning of each barrel followed by laser-guided cutting to remove the contaminated wood inside the barrel. To ensure the contaminated oak is totally removed, each stave is scanned separately to build an accurate three -dimensional picture of the inside surface. Following this digital map, a computercontrolled routing tool then cuts up to 8mm off the inside of the barrel to reveal clean oak. Analysis has shown that Phoenix’s precision cutting removes all wine contaminants to expose clean wood while retaining most of the original French oak flavour characteristics. So effective is the process that barrels previously containing red wine can be
used for the fermentation and maturation process. Barrels are returned to the client of white wines. winery containing 10 litres of sulphurAfter each barrel is checked, infrared citric solution and are pressure tested toasting to the wine makers specification before leaving the workshop. is applied using another new technology Over the last 12 months, 26 selected process which removes the risk of New Zealand wineries provided Vintech variation and blistering and allows the Pacific with used barrels to try out the winemakers a choice of toasting styles. new process as part of a trial programme, At the end of the process, the barrels are and the positive results led the company recrozed so that new, imported, toasted to go ahead with the development of a oak heads can be fitted which are then specialist Phoenix workshop at Spring custom-branded to meet individual Creek. wineries requirement. New heads are This service, until recently only available sourced from 24-month seasoned oak in Australia, is now in full swing in from Centre of France. Marlborough. Head loops are also rebranded with the winery name, original barrel type and age. The process, while using state-of-theart technology, also sees the return to the wine industry of traditional coopering skills. Exterior sanding and refurbishment, including Cellarguard antimould treatment, are optional extensions of the Phoenix process. General cooperage can be performed to repair or replace broken staves prior The computer-guided robotic router precisely shaves to the rejuvenation contaminated wood from interior surface used barrels.
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Television’s Thirsty Work TESSA NICHOLSON
A number of Marlborough wineries will be part of a new television series, due to hit our screens on Food TV later this year. The series is called Thirsty Work created by wine writer Yvonne Lorkin. Yvonne says the birth of Thirsty Work has
been themed
followed a very long gestation period, as
into regions,
it was an idea she first came up with in
and Yvonne
1998.
describes the
“I have been thinking about getting
series as a “tiki
New Zealand wine on TV since I began
tour around New
working in the wine business, which is
Zealand by your
a long time ago. But it was that classic
taste buds.”
thing, that I had this idea and would talk
Each programme
to people in the television business and
is broken down
they would go, ‘Yeah, that sounds great’,
into three
but nothing would happen.”
segments,
While the Peta Mathias series did cover
focusing on individuals who have
wine, once that finished, Yvonne says
impacted on the beverage industry, plus
there was nothing there to replace it. That
tips of how to get the best from wine,
hasn’t been helped by the impact of the
whether you are tasting it, buying it or
new alcohol laws, which prohibit any form
cellaring it.
of promotion of alcohol in the media.
“I want people to understand that the
“I had in my head it was about education
show is not about me standing there
and about the people behind the
telling them, this is how you drink a glass
beverages, rather than saying you all
of wine. It’s about going to visit these
should go out and drink more wine. That
really interesting people that make these
is not what the programme is about, but it
wines, that brew these gorgeous beers
was tricky trying to convince other people
and ciders, and telling their stories. We
the programme wasn’t like that.”
enjoy wine along the way, but it’s more
Food Television has picked up the series
about getting to know these people and
and hope to have the programmes on
their history. It’s a connection between
air by late June. Given the programming
the people and the bottle.”
style of the Food channel, it means each
Yvonne says even she has had her eyes
programme will air more than once, on a
opened during the filming.
rotation system.
“I have been writing about wine for a
The 30 minute programmes have
number of years now and I thought I
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knew a lot of people, knew their stories and had a handle on some of the personalities behind them. But Thirsty Work has totally opened my eyes to the diversity of people and the hilarity of some of the stories, how some businesses were set up and how people get through when time gets tough with weather or the recession, and how they need to become clever. It has been really inspiring.” Having been filming since November, Yvonne hopes to have between six and eight episodes initially, with more to come in the future. The companies in Marlborough who will feature on the first series are; Yealands Estate, Forrest Wines, Blind River Wines, Villa Maria and Hunter’s.
Cellar Hand Course Success Last year NMIT, industry members and the Ministry of Social Development created a first ever cellar hand course. Its success has seen it repeated again this year. Last year’s course was a first for the New
partnership with the industry itself if it was
“You can teach people about the
Zealand wine industry and has been
to be successful,” he says.
importance of temperature, or pumping
deemed to be one of the most successful
In February another 15 individuals, aged
over or fermentation. But there is nothing
partnership style courses in the South
between 19 and 40, undertook the latest
quite like actually doing it for it to all make
Island.
four-week course. After a debrief last
sense.”
NMIT’s Programme Area Leader Jeff
year with the wineries involved, NMIT
The three wineries that backed the
Wilson says they had 15 students take
changed the course slightly to provide
course last year are back on board again
part, on a course that was divided into
more training on winery equipment use,
and have been joined by sister winery
theoretical and practical segments.
bringing in a specialist winery engineer
to Kim Crawford – Drylands. Villa Maria
With three wineries backing the course,
from Vitis NZ. During the four weeks they
and Wither Hills have also interviewed
(Brancott Estate, Indevin and Kim
were taught health and safety, literacy,
and offered positions for those not placed
Crawford) all the students got to spend
budgeting, employment, basic computer
with the partner wineries for this vintage,
time on the ground in each of the
skills and food hygiene at NMIT. They
giving all 14 who completed the course
wineries, learning the practical side of
also spent more time in each of the
job opportunities. The partnership
the industry. All were informed that if they
wineries, learning how a cellar works
between industry and NMIT is one of
passed the training aspect, they could be
and the all important role of a cellar
the reasons the course is deemed so
offered full time employment during the
hand. One of the beauties of the course
successful.
vintage. Of the 15 that began, ten went
for wineries, is they know they will have
“It was a whole new concept for the
on to take up a vintage position. Two of
workers who have some basic knowledge
Ministry of Social Development for this
those gained permanent jobs, five had
not only of the industry, but also the
industry and the length required for
their contracts extended at the end of
winery they are working in, once vintage
the course, but they have supported
the vintage with the majority being re-
begins.
us and we have shown that it can and
employed again this year.
To ensure the students understood the
does work. We can’t praise the industry
Out of that whole year, only three of the
importance of each facet of the vintage
partners enough. They have placed a
15 have re registered with WINZ.
process, they were provided with frozen
lot of time into getting these students up
Jeff says NMIT has been very keen to
grapes to make their own wine. Each
to graduation and then assisting them
establish the Cellar Hand course for a
day they had to spend time on the
during the actual vintage period.”
number of years, as an adjunct to the
winemaking, and finally bottled their
current winery and viticulture courses
individual wines, just before graduating.
being run here in Marlborough.
Jeff says that is a very important aspect
“But we knew we had to have a
of the course.
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25
GST on instalment payments Wine growers: when you sell your grapes to wineries, are you paid in instalments? Inland Revenue is finding some people in our industry aren’t accounting for the GST on these payments correctly. If you’re registered for GST and you supply grapes to a winery or processing facility, you’re probably well aware you need to include the amount you receive in your GST return. But which return? In most cases, accounting for GST in the right taxable period is a straight-forward matter. However, problems can arise when the grower receives payment (for a single supply) in instalments over a period of time. When you return your GST in these cases depends on your GST accounting basis. If you use the payments basis, you return your GST in the taxable period in which you receive each payment. That is, you may receive payments spread across two or more taxable periods. If you use the invoice or hybrid basis, you return all of the GST up front – in the taxable period you issue the invoice, or you receive the first payment, whichever comes first. However, some growers on the invoice or hybrid basis are incorrectly operating and returning their GST in the taxable period after all payments are received. Paying GST on the full value of the supply when you’ve only received the first payment can create cash flow difficulties. Changing to the payments basis may make your life easier because you’ll be paying Inland Revenue after you’ve been paid yourself. A business can use the payments basis if the total value of taxable supplies in a 12 month period is under $2 million. If the value of your taxable supplies exceeds this figure, you may still qualify depending on the nature, value and volume of your supplies, and the type of accounting system you use. If you’re considering changing your accounting basis, we recommend you discuss the pros and cons with your tax advisor first. All applications to Inland Revenue for a change in accounting basis must be in writing. Wishing to continue with the invoice or hybrid basis? Please
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check your accounting processes to ensure you’re returning your income at the right time. For more information on this topic, please go to www.ird.govt.nz (search term ‘get ready to register’).
IS YOUR WATER PERMIT DUE TO EXPIRE? Call
Helen Woodward
Resource Management Consultant For all your resource consent applications and monitoring needs Water - Discharge - Land Use Environmental-soil fertility and contamination testing, water quality testing For experienced, local, prompt service Contact Helen at Phone 03 579 5669 Mobile: 0272 11115 Email: h.woodward@xtra.co.nz
Wine Happenings A monthly list of events within the Marlborough wine industry. To have your event included in next month’s calendar please email details to tessa.nicholson@me.com
APRIL 23 – 27
Decanter World Wine Awards 2012 – judging
MAY 22
International Wine Challenge – results announced – London
22 – 24
International Wine Challenge Discovery Tasting at London International Wine Fair
29 – 31
Vinexpo Asia Pacific 2012 – Hong Kong
31
Wine Marlborough Prunning Workshop - Dog Point Vineyard. Email kate@wine-marlborough.co.nz for more details.
JUNE 19
NZW South Island Grape Days – Marlborough Convention Centre, Blenheim
JULY 20:
Marlborough Young Viticulturist of the Year Competition
TBC:
Marlborough Silver Secateurs Competition
FOR QUALITY HARVESTING WITH EXPERIENCED STAFF
AUGUST 22 - 24
Romeo Bragato Conference – Blenheim
SEPTEMBER 4 – 6
Spiegleau International Wine Competition judging – Blenheim
OCTOBER 15 – 17
Marlborough Wine Show judging - Blenheim
Phone 578 6580 / 0274 441 404 41 St Leonards Road, Blenheim
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News From Home and Away The World’s His Oyster So the saying goes, but it could well be true for Steve Bird, who was one of only two New Zealand winemakers to be invited to present his wines to the residents of the world’s most luxurious private mega yacht The World. The cruise liner’s cellars are capable of holding 12,000 bottles and residents have a selection of 600 different wine labels, sourced from 18 countries. The wines Steve presented were all from Marlborough, the 2011 Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris, the 2010 Riesling, 2008 Gewurztraminer and 2009 Big Barrel Pinot Noir. Hills Labs Expand into Marlborough Cawthron’s Marlborough lab has been sold to Hills Laboratories, with the sale expected to be complete by the end of June. Currently Cawthron and Hill have signed a Heads of Agreement for sale. There will be no change in the service that has been provided to Marlborough. In a press statement, Hill Laboratories said they will continue to provide the same service from the same premises in Grovetown. “The purchase provides an opportunity to strengthen the core areas of it’s business – environmental and wine testing,” the statement said. Wine Options Signing Off After 30 years the popular national Wine Options competition is about to sign off. Chairman Kingsley Wood says the very last event will be held at the Crowne Plaza Hotel in Auckland on July 1st. Teams that have taken part in the popular
event during the last three decades are likely to be already planning to get back together to have one last go at the competition. And given the move in recent years to dress up for the event, costumes makers are likely to be in overdrive. Hopefully Marlborough will be well represented in the final swan song. Accolades Concours Mondial du Sauvignon 2012 Congrats to two Marlborough wineries who picked up special trophies at this prestigious competition. Framingham Sauvignon Blanc 2011 received a special trophy for Oak-aged Sauvignon, while Saint Clair was awarded the trophy for Unoaked Sauvignon for their Pioneer Block Foundation 1, 2011 Sauvignon Blanc. Of the 61 Gold Medals awarded, seven came to Marlborough. All the Sauvignons were 2011. Congrats to medal winners, Brancott Estate Brancott B, Esk Valley, Giesen Brothers, Petit Clos by Clos Henri, Ra Nui Wairau Valley, Saint Clair Pioneer Block 18 Snap Block and Saint Clair Vicar’s Choice. Finnish Wine of the Year Competition Villa Maria was awarded a Gold Medal at the above show, for its Private Bin Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010. Royal Easter Show Trophies Champion Gewurztraminer – Distant Land Marlborough 2011 Champion Riesling – Clarke Estate Single Vineyard 2011 Champion Sauvignon Blanc – Villa Maria Single Vineyard Southern Clays 2011
Champion Medium Sweet or Sweet Wine – Brancott Estate Brancott B Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Champion Rosé or Blush – Stoneleigh Pinot Noir Rosé 2011 Drinks Business Green Awards 2012 Runner up in the Sustainability Award of the Year – Yealands Estate. Special Commendation – Villa Maria Personal Home Brewery Winner There is possibly some irony in the fact that grape growers had the chance to win a home brewery, as part of a fun competition recently. The Syngenta competition offered up a NZ invented and built Williams Warn Personal Home Brewery to one lucky user. And Jason Tripe was the name drawn out of the hat in February. So as he prepares for vintage, he can revel in the fact that he will be able to brew his own product at home, once the rush is over. Book Winners Last month we offered up two copies of the book, A Bloke For All Seasons, The Peter Yealands story, written by Tom Percy. Both copies have been signed by both Peter and the author. From the number of entries we had sent to us at Wine Marlborough, two names were drawn out of a hat. The lucky winners are; P Taylor from Blenheim and Brenden Morahen from Christchurch. We will send out your copies in the next few days. Congrats to both of you.
Disclaimer: The views and articles that are expressed and appear in Winepress are those entirely those of contributors and in no way reflect the policy of the Marlborough Winegrowers. Any advice given, implied or suggested should be considered on its merits, and no responsibility can be taken for problems arising from the use of such information.
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Lex Thomson B.Vit & Oen. is available to assist the winegrower. Viticulture services now include: • A training program for pruning staff. A qualified and experienced tutor will come to your vineyard and teach the fundamentals of correct pruning. Quality pruning produces balanced vines that increase yield and fruit quality. • Help with S.W.N.Z scorecards and audits Visit www.vitpractice.co.nz for details about our full range of viticulture services. Ph: 021 230 2348 Email: lexthomson@vitpractice.co.nz
TANKS FOR SALE 2 x 1000L Variable capicity, ex Vitis as new Price negotiable Contact Gerald
0274 331 059
McAlpines Roundwood Limited
Suppliers of
Quality Roundwood Contact:
Grant Cathcart Phone 03 313 8339 Fax 03 313 3767 Mobile 021 511 460
roundwood@mcalpines.co.nz