WINEPRESS Issue No. 224 / April 2013
Clonal Diversity
Marlborough Dazzles
Magnesium Deficiency
Summer of Riesling
Photo: Jim Tannock
The Official Magazine of
www.wine-marlborough.co.nz
MARLBOROUGH
1411 Redwood Pass Road
Award Winning Vineyard in the Awatere
Deadline Sale 4pm, Fri 17 May 2013 Bayleys Marlborough, Cnr Charles & Seymour Street, Blenheim (unless sold prior) www.bayleys.co.nz/112852
An opportunity to purchase either as separate parcels or purchase two vineyards located on Redwood Pass Road In Marlborough’s Awatere Valley. This vineyard has produced numerous “single vineyard” Gold medal and Trophy winning wines. The property has a total area of 18.2067 ha (approx 45 acres) - with a producing vineyard, staff amenities building and an implement shed. The total productive vineyard area (approximately 8.2 ha) has approx 50% planted in Sauvignon Blanc and the balance being a mix of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay. An area of approx 4 ha of bare land provides future development potential. An “A’ Class water right is available. 2013 independent valuation is available on request providing a current market value: NZ$1,295,000.
MARLBOROUGH Awatere Valley Vineyard Vineyard purchase opportunity in Marlborough’s expanding Awatere Valley wine region. Located in the highly sought after lower Dashwood area of Marlborough’s Awatere Valley. The property has a land area of 10.4417 hectares (approximately 25 acres). The improvements include a producing vineyard, a 1990’s two bedroom house, outbuildings, sleepout and an implement shed. The vineyard area of approximately 7.62 hectares is planted in Sauvignon blanc (4.8 hectares) and Pinot Noir (2.8 hectares). An “A” Class water right is available. 2013 independent valuation is available on request providing a current market value: NZ$1,050,000. For further information about these properties contact the vendors agents John Hoare or Jackie Herkt.
John Hoare
M 027 432 1410 B 03 578 7700
Jackie Herkt
M 027 432 1410 VINING REALTY GROUP LTD, BAYLEYS, LICENSED UNDER THE REA ACT 2008
1467 Redwood Pass Road Deadline Sale 4pm, Fri 17 May 2013 Bayleys Marlborough, Cnr Charles & Seymour Street, Blenheim (unless sold prior) www.bayleys.co.nz/112851 John Hoare
M 027 432 1410 B 03 578 7700
Jackie Herkt
M 027 432 1410 VINING REALTY GROUP LTD, BAYLEYS, LICENSED UNDER THE REA ACT 2008
In this issue... Regulars
Features
3 4
8
Editorial Tasman Crop Met Report
6 Letters to to Editor 7 Marketing Matters Y-ine 24 Generation Alan Peters-Oswald 27 Wine Happenings From Home and 28 News Away All correspondence including advertising / associate memberships / change of address to: Wine Marlborough PO Box 511, Blenheim 7240 T: 03 577 9299, F: 03 577 9298 E: admin@wine-marlborough.co.nz www.wine-marlborough.co.nz
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20 Printed by: Blenheim Print Ltd. T: 03 578 1322 WINEPRESS is printed with vegetable oil based inks on elemental chlorine free paper which is sourced 100% from well managed forrests and manufactured under ISO 14001 Environmental Management Systems.
Magnesium Deficiency or Leafroll Virus?
The visual differences between magnesium deficiency and leafroll virus are subtle, which means some growers may think they have virus infected vines, when in fact they don’t. We look at how to differentiate between the two.
p18
Lack of Clonal Diversity
Is Marlborough too dependent on just one Sauvignon Blanc clone? Dr Richard Smart suggested in last month’s Winepress that we are. Laurent Audeguin, the Selection Research and Development manager for the Vine Department at ENTAV in France agrees.
Marlborough Dazzles
It was a celebration of Marlborough wines at the recent Diamond Jubilee Easter Wine Show. Trophies galore, winemaker of the year, Heritage Rose Bowl and a local stalwart inducted into the New Zealand Wine Hall of Fame.
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Wine Unwound
Local writer Annabelle Latz is embarking on a new career – the wine industry. But she is the first to admit, she’s as green as the Sauvignon Blanc grapes that are pouring into the winery at the moment. In what will be a regular feature Annabelle provides an inside look at the process of making wine, from the novice’s point of view.
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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough
4/2013 WINEPRESS
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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough
Produced by:
From the Editor
Wine Marlborough Free to all levy paying members Associate Members: $77 +GST Editor: Tessa Nicholson 16 Bank Street Blenheim T: 021 709 571 E: tessa.nicholson@me.com If you wish to make contact with any member of the Wine Marlborough Board, the following are their email addresses. Dominic Pecchenino: nzyanks@xtra.co.nz Blair Gibbs: blair@spyvalley.co.nz James Jones: james@starborough.co.nz Ivan Sutherland: ivan@dogpoint.co.nz Ben Glover: ben@zephyrwine.com Ruud Maasdam: ruud@staetelandt.co.nz Clive Jones: cjones@nautilusestate.com Guy Lissaman: glissaman@xtra.co.nz
In this day and age it is imperative to keep costs under control. Which given the last few years, the wine industry, growers in particular, have become specialists at. Therefore it was horrifying to discover that some growers may be removing vines this winter, believing they are infected with Grapevine leafroll-associated virus 3 (leafroll virus). Those vines tagged to be removed, may in fact only be showing signs of magnesium deficiency. The recent hands on workshop, run by Nick Hoskins and Vaughn Bell of the Virus Elimination Project, was an eye opener. Vines displaying the signs of leafroll virus, sat just metres away from vines displaying magnesium deficiency. The visual similarities create a danger for anyone passing a cursory glance over their vines. Especially for the uninitiated, which many growers in Marlborough are when it comes to identifying leafroll virus. However when you view the leaves of a magnesium deficient vine alongside a leaf from a leafroll virus infected vine, they are vastly different. It is not only worthwhile taking a closer look at the comparisons on page 8 of this issue, for your own peace of mind, it may be a massive cost saver. Why? Because the only cure for leafroll virus is to remove the infected vines. Expensive, given the cost of replanting and down time of production. And even more costly if the vine doesn’t actually need to be removed. Magnesium deficiency however can be remedied – without the need for removal. So if nothing else this month, take a close look at the pictures, and maybe even take the magazine with you when you are checking for leafroll infected vines. Now is the time to be doing that, before the vines begin defoliating. Of course this only relates to those with red varieties as the signs of leafroll do not show up in white varietals. While on the subject of Winepress, we at Wine Marlborough understand how nice it is to hold a magazine in your hands while you read it. But we also appreciate that not everyone wishes to receive a hard copy. Being environmentally friendly is something the wine industry has embraced and we would like to do so as well. Would you prefer to receive your copy of Winepress via email? Or would you still prefer a hard copy? If it is the former, please let us know, and we will forward you the PDF copy each month. All you have to do is let Emily Hope know, via Emily@wine-marlborough.co.nz or myself, and we will change your subscription over to email. We look forward to hearing from you. Until next month – happy vintage. May the sun continue to shine and the fruit reach perfection.
Laurin Gane: laurin.gane@xtra.co.nz Simon Clark: simon@clarkestate.com
TESSA NICHOLSON tessa.nicholson@me.com
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Met Report
daily maximum temperatures and lower daily minimum temperatures and as a consequence a much greater daily range in temperature.
Table 1: Blenheim Weather Data – March 2013 March 2013
March 2013 compared to LTA
March LTA
Period of LTA
March 2012
201.7 198.1
103% 103%
196.1 192.9
(1996-2012) (1996-2012)
153.9 157.8
1209.4 1236.8
101% 101%
1200.5 1230.0
(1996-2012) (1996-2012)
1060.4 1106.5
22.3 10.7 16.5 16.5
+0.9°C +0.3°C +0.5°C +0.3°C
21.4 10.4 16.0 16.2
(1986-2012) (1986-2012) (1986-2012) (1932-2012)
20.3 9.6 15.0 15.0
Grass Frosts (<= -1.0°C)
0
1 less
0.9 0.19
(1932-1985) (1986-2012)
0
Air Frosts
0
-
0.1 0.0
(1932-1985) (1986-2012)
0
Sunshine hours Sunshine hours – lowest Sunshine hours – highest Sunshine hours total – 2013
255.0
116% 117%
(1930-2012) 1980 1969 (1930-2012)
192.5
827.2
219 146.7 281.0 706
Rainfall (mm) Rainfall (mm) – lowest Rainfall (mm) – highest Rainfall total (mm) – 2013
22.0
48% 73%
(1930-2012) 1969 1979 (1930-2012)
58.6
99.6
45.8 2.8 118.0 136.1
122.2
Evapotranspiration – mm
104.1
104%
100.3
(1996-2012)
101.2
Avg. Daily Windrun (km)
210.9
81%
259.5
(1996-2012)
231.0
Mean soil temp – 10cm
15.8
+0.3°C
15.5
(1986-2012)
14.0
Mean soil temp – 30cm
19.6
+1.6°C
18.0
(1986-2012)
16.7
GDD’s for: Month - Max/Min¹ Month – Mean² Growing Degree Days Total Jul 12 - Mar 13 – Max/Min Jul 12 - Mar 13 – Mean Mean Maximum (°C) Mean Minimum (°C) Mean Temp (°C) Mean Temp (°C)
(0.0°C)
596.8
¹GDD’s Max/Min are calculated from absolute daily maximum and minimum temperatures ²GDD’s Mean are calculated from average hourly temperatures Table 2: Weekly weather data for March 2013 Date
Avg. Max (°C)
Avg. Min. (°C)
Avg. Daily Mean Range (°C) (°C)
Sunshine (hrs)
GrowingRainfall degree days (mm)
1st – 7th
21.1
11.9
9.2
16.5
54.2
45.7
0.0
8th – 14th
23.0
9.7
13.3
16.3
72.9
44.3
0.0
15th-21st
20.9
11.9
9.0
16.4
29.3
44.8
20.2
22nd-28th
23.9
9.2
14.7
16.5
74.9
45.8
0.0
29th-31st
23.1
11.0
12.1
17.0
23.7
21.1
1.8
March 2013 in Marlborough was warm, sunny and dry with little wind. Temperature Weekly mean temperatures and growing degree-days during March 2013 were fairly even throughout the month and
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all slightly above average (Table 2). The second and fourth weeks of March recorded much higher sunshine hours than the first and fourth weeks of the month. The clear skies associated with the higher sunshine hours in the second and fourth weeks, gave rise to higher
The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough
Maturity development of grapes during March 2013 in relation to the weather The fact that the weekly mean temperatures and growing-degree days were fairly even through March 2013 doesn’t truly reflect the development of grape maturity. A steady mean temperature would lead you to believe that berry maturity (°Brix) would probably also increase fairly steadily. However, the mean temperature is a reflection of the daytime and nightime temperatures and it can mask the daily maximum temperatures if the nights were also cool. Warm sunny days are more conducive to photosynthesis and berry ripening than are cooler overcast days. Berry maturity was increasing steadily up until the time of the rainfall event from 17th to 19th March. On a number of grape blocks that we monitor a combination of the rainfall and the overcast weather caused the Brix development of some blocks to stall for a few days. However, as expected, there were some substantial increases in Brix in the fourth week of March with the sunny and dry weather. Sunshine Total sunshine for Blenheim for the first three months of 2013 is 827.2 hours; well above the long-term average of 706 hours. Only one other year (1978) has had a sunnier first three months in the previous 83 years (1930-2012). 1978 recorded a total of 842.4 hours sunshine for January, February and March. Although Blenheim has recorded very high sunshine hours from January to March 2013, so have Blenheim’s rivals in the sunshine race.
Table 3: Total Sunshine hours January
average it is by no means an unusually
the long-term average than you would
to March 2013
dry start to the year. 22 years in the 83
otherwise expect. Five of the seven months in the current
Town
Sunshine hours Difference from January-March Blenheim total
year period 1930-2012 have recorded lower rainfall totals for January to March
season have recorded well below
Whakatane
885.1
+58.7
(less than 99.6 mm); i.e. one year in four
average rainfall (Sep, Nov, Dec, Feb,
Lake Tekapo
829.5
+3.1
in Marlborough has had a dry first three
Mar; Figure 2). However, even during
Blenheim
826.4
months with less than 73% of normal
the months with low rainfall Marlborough
Nelson
796.6
rainfall.
has been fortunate to receive one main
-29.8
Whakatane is still well ahead of Blenheim, having recorded considerably more sunshine in January and March; equal in February. Blenheim has almost pegged Lake Tekapo back, after Tekapo recorded a massive total in January, 44 hours ahead of Blenheim’s total. Nelson is dropping behind Blenheim after three months. However, there is a lot of 2013 left, so that could easily change. Rainfall Almost all of March’s rainfall (20.2 mm of the 22.0 mm) was received in one rain event from the 17th to 19th March. 1.8 mm was recorded on Sunday 31st. Total rainfall for January to March 2013 is 99.6 mm; 73% of the long-term average of 136.1 mm. Although this is a low rainfall total compared to the long-term
Seasonal rainfall for Blenheim When we compare rainfall for the current growing season, to previous seasons, a slightly different picture emerges. The seven months from September 2012 to March 2013 recorded 217.4 mm rain; or only 64% of the long-term average of 341.6 mm. Only seven years in the 83 year period 1930-2012 recorded lower rainfall during this seven month period.
five months; November being the only exception with only 7.0 mm rain. Although the monthly rainfall totals have been well below average, the fact that the province has received rainfall events about three to five weeks apart has helped to alleviate a much more serious drought for the farming community who do not have access to irrigation (Table 4).
Blenheim was very fortunate to receive
Table 4: Significant rainfall events in
double the normal rainfall in August 2012
Blenheim from September 2012 to
(Figure 2). This would have had the
March 2013
effect of saturating soil moisture at the
Date of rainfall September 15th – 16th October 8th 12th – 13th November None December 5th – 7th January 14th – 15th February 3rd – 4th March 17th – 19th
beginning of the growing season prior to the months of below average rainfall. The August rainfall total is the main reason that the total for the nine months July 2012 to March 2013 is much closer to
Figure 2: Rainfall for Blenheim July 2012 to March 2013 compared to the longterm average
rainfall event each month in four of those
Total (mm) 15.0 13.8 32.6 18.2 43.4 18.6 20.2 Rob Agnew
Plant & Food Research
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Letters to the Editor Dear Editor
numbers.
Dear Editor
In your March edition of Winepress you
MBIE always aims to manage distribution
The recent deportation of a vineyard
identified labour as an issue that could
of RSE workers across all regions
contractor is good news for the
“stymie” the growth and development
equitably and within the national cap.
industry. There are Cowboys and
of the Marlborough wine industry. Your
Ensuring New Zealanders have access
Indians masquerading as contractors
editorial raised a number of points about
to employment opportunities is central to
and using unpaid workers wages to
the Recognised Seasonal Employer
these considerations, albeit recognising
upgrade the Mercedes or buy a new gold
(RSE) Scheme which merit a response.
each regional labour market is different.
bracelet. We need our backpackers
You stated that contractors believed the
In the case of Marlborough significant
to go home with a buzz about the
region would need 1,550 RSE workers
factors such as the Canterbury rebuild
positive experience of employment
for this season and that the Ministry of
will have an impact on domestic and
in our industry. There are too many
Social Development (MSD) had proposed
foreign worker supply.
instances where bright young people
a figure of 1,450. You then stated that
Consideration of these factors has always
from around the world go away from
this lower figure was arrived at as the
been central to the RSE scheme so it is
their brief experience in the vineyards
Ministry of Business, Innovation and
inaccurate to state, as you did, that “the
finding they have been short paid,
Employment (MBIE) – which manages the
rules have now changed”. They have not.
not paid, and not fully understanding
RSE scheme – did not believe the region
The RSE scheme will continue to provide
our laws don’t know what to do about
“requires” the higher number of 1,550.
a quality workforce but only in the context
it. They have often moved on by the
In fact recommendations regarding
of wider regional labour market strategies
time wages or contract work payment
RSE worker numbers are made by the
and as a supplement to New Zealanders.
is supposed to have occurred. If they
Marlborough Regional Governance
It is heartening to hear the industry
are still in town they can be stonewalled
Group (RGG), which is a partnership
believes the RSE scheme has worked
by the contractor’s promises to look
between industry, MSD and MBIE
well and made a tangible difference to
into it, or just plain rudeness when they
collectively charged with overseeing the
Marlborough’s labour supply. This is
query their pay packets. We must treat
region’s RSE scheme. MBIE does not
precisely what the scheme was designed
these itinerants whether they come
set the RSE number but takes the RGG
to achieve.
from the Islands/Asia/Europe as family,
recommendation based on the availability
MBIE is currently looking at options to
they need encouragement, and we as
of New Zealanders and industry needs.
support Marlborough’s workforce needs
employers must show that their input is
Since it began, the RSE scheme was
during winter pruning and I look forward
valued. By the same token if the work is
designed to supplement the New
to meeting with the RGG and discussing
substandard then they must shape up
Zealand Horticulture and Viticulture
how MBIE, MSD and the region can
or ship out. If we were working in their
workforce. This has not changed. Nor
work together to strengthen employer
country then we also would expect a fair
has the fact that when supporting
and worker outcomes for the benefit of
deal.
employers to recruit RSE workers MBIE
Marlborough, New Zealand and the RSE
Peter Binsted
must consider a wide range of important
sending countries.
Vineyard Manager/Partner
factors including regional community
Matt Hoskin
Ingrid Estates
and social impacts, provision of worker
Acting Manager RSE programme
pastoral care and the fact that the RSE
Ministry of Business, Innovation and
scheme has a national cap on worker
Employment – Immigration
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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough
Marketing Matters WITH MARCUS PICKENS
Here in the Wine Marlborough office we love this time of year. Not only is it harvest which is always the most exciting time of the wine calendar but it is the only time of year the phones slow, the visitors to the office drop and the email stream is manageable. What do we use the time to do? We use this time to plan and follow through some of the concepts that have been brought to us through the busy times, as well as taking the time to spend more time out in our region visiting cellar doors, vineyards and wineries (this includes Claire Wilson who has been assisting with IRD numbers for harvest crews) and keeping in touch with you, our members. Some of the projects that we are implementing that will help us gather information and move our combined interests ahead are detailed here. Recently the first of the board’s new committees, the Communication Committee has been established and had their inaugural meeting. There are many objectives in establishing this committee from how and when to engage with you our members, to communicating with younger industry participants. However, Winepress will always be on the agenda, so having a committee set up to discuss this vital publication will help gather story feeds and keep content fresh and relevant. The quality and content of the publication is second to none and we wish to improve this with your help so expect a survey soon that assesses your needs for the magazine. We need to build advertisers to enable us to further develop the magazine so if you need more information on this please contact us. Board member Laurin Gane will chair the committee with board
members Simon Clark and Ben Glover also involved. Tessa Nicholson and Emily Hope are the Wine Marlborough representatives. Other committees meet and discuss concepts regularly including the Governance and Finance Committee, the Marketing Committee and the Advocacy Committee. We need your input and feedback – ideas are always welcomed and sought. Please always feel free to comment on where your regional association is heading, or where you wish to see focus or action. Personally what projects are giving me energy and focus presently? Sauvignon Blanc, Bikes and Bottles are probably the three projects that I want to look into more deeply. One of the key comments I heard at the New Zealand Pinot Noir Conference in January, was why doesn’t Sauvignon Blanc get the same kind of attention? We get the media attention – often praiseworthy I admit, but some critical from our Australian counterparts who have seen their market share evaporate faster than the North Island’s water this summer. Could we put a major industry Sauvignon Blanc conference on? Maybe - in time. Is there something we could achieve more immediately? Yes, one which involves winemakers collaborating and discussing the variety in the same ways that winemakers get together around Pinot Noir. What form
could this take? If you are a winemaker or viticulturist, you hold some of the answers to this and contributions will be sought to hammer this out and make it happen this year sometime after vintage. Wine tourism has huge potential here. Could Marlborough be more of a wine cycling destination and should we advance this proposition by developing more cycle routes and by possibly developing a dedicated Wine Bike Trail Map. Yes. It bugged me that Hawkes Bay got the headline that we could own recently ‘Pedal Power through the Bay’. We can get interested parties together to progress vineyard cycling routes further and look at what kind of regional investment is required to get active in this space, we just need a dedicated champion! Finally, bottles. Can or should Marlborough develop its own prototype branded bottle? Can we position ourselves collectively as an industry with some thought in this area? Agreed, it would be very hard to get industry wide buy in to such a big project but it is worth investigation. There will be a lot of knowledge on bottles amongst you all and contributions on how we evaluate this idea are very much welcomed. Feel free to contact me with any ideas: Ph: +64 357 79299 Mob: +64 21 831 820 Email: Marcus@wine-marlborough.co.nz
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Magnesium Deficiency Or Leafroll Virus? TESSA NICHOLSON
Are those vines you are tagging as infected with leafroll virus actually harbouring the disease? Or are they just showing signs of magnesium deficiency? As more and more growers become
replacement vine is fully productive.
when you place the leaf of a magnesium
aware of the impact of Grapevine leafroll-
Given these factors, growers need to be
deficient vine beside the leaf of a vine
associated virus 3 (leafroll virus), action
sure that the vines marked for removal
with leafroll virus, the difference is stark.”
is increasingly being taken to remove
are in fact infected with leafroll virus,
In the case of a magnesium deficient
infected vines. There is, however, a note
and not expressing visual symptoms
vine, the leaf colour has a pinkish/
of caution required. For those growers
of a mineral deficiency – particularly
orange tinge in the inter-vein while areas
with limited exposure to leafroll virus
magnesium. The reason for any confusion
immediately beside the main veins
there is a risk they may confuse the
is understandable once you realise that
remain green. Leafroll virus symptoms
visual symptoms of the virus with those of
in both cases, the visual symptoms of
visually express in the inter-vein areas,
mineral deficiencies such as magnesium.
the virus and the deficiency appear in
and are typically a dark red. Areas close
Vaughn Bell from Plant & Food Research
the leaves of the vine from mid-summer
to the main veins remain green. For
in Hawke’s Bay has been working with
onwards.
those vines that have been infected for
NZW as part of their jointly funded
“The differences between them are
several years, the margins of leaves also
research programme with the Sustainable
often very subtle,” Vaughn recently told a
cup downwards, hence the reference to
Farming Fund. The focus of the research
group of Marlborough growers. “However,
has been to develop control strategies for this economically important virus. Now into its second three-year term, the project has previously restricted its research activities to Hawke’s Bay and Martinborough. Both regions have vineyards where leafroll virus has adversely impacted vine performance (e.g. delayed fruit ripening, reduced yields and elevated berry acidity), and with no known cure, the only means of control is to remove the infected vine. However, such actions are costly, involving not only removal and replanting, but also the downtime before the
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The leaf on the left is showing signs of magnesium deficiency, while the leaf on the right is from a vine with leafroll virus.
The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough
Magnesium deficient symtoms on the left, against a vine that has leafroll virus. ‘leafroll’ (See photos).
they not remove healthy vines,” Bell said.
leaves. If you can only go into a block
While in Marlborough, Bell visited a
The confusion isn’t helped by the fact
once, then make it as late in the season
number of Pinot Noir blocks. In one of
that both the virus and deficiency start
as you possibly can, although Bell urges
those blocks, the grower had tagged a
to express visual symptoms during the
growers to be mindful of rogue frosts
large number of vines he suspected as
summer months. If at all practicable, this
defoliating vines in April and therefore
being infected with leafroll virus.
is the time Bell says, that growers need to
impeding accurate identification before
“I would say his identification of the virus
be out in their blocks monitoring for signs
monitoring has concluded. “Ideally,
was correct for just 50% of the tagged
of leafroll virus.
you want to identify as many of those
vines. Across the 20 rows monitored, 236
“The timing of when you look for the
infected vines as you can, so that they
vines had been tagged as being infected
disease is really important. It is present
can be removed in the winter immediately
with leafroll virus, when they were actually
now, (mid March at the time he spoke
following identification.”
expressing symptoms of magnesium
in Marlborough), but as time goes by,
Bell said it is critical to get on top of the
deficiency.”
the number of symptomatic vines in
virus as soon as possible, which means
If the grower had not been alerted to
your vineyard is likely to progressively
identifying the symptomatic vines this
the differences, those vines would have
increase. The timing of the visual
season, not waiting until next.
been removed later this year – incurring
symptoms though, depends on what time
Note: Issues related to leafroll virus
a significant financial cost for no good
in the previous season the actual vine
identification are specifically covered in
reason.
became infected. There is a lag phase of
the grower Fact Sheet “Leafroll symptoms
“I accept that making the correct
12 – 18 months, maybe even two years
on red varieties” (NZVE 101) available via
diagnosis can sometimes be confusing,
from the point at which a vine is infected
the NZW website (www.nzwine.com)
particularly if growers have minimal
with the virus, and the point at which the
experience of leafroll virus, but it’s critical
visual symptoms start to express in the
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Lack of Clonal Diversity TESSA NICHOLSON
Hard on the heels of Richard Smart’s comments in last month’s Winepress, another expert is warning growers that the clonal diversity here in Marlborough is dangerously low. Laurent Audeguin is the Selection
commentators are expressing
Research and Development manager
concern about. At Pinot Noir 2013,
for the Vine Department at ENTAV,
guest speaker Matt Kramer from
France’s only certified vine selection
America said growers should treat
agency and the Commercial Director
their clonal mix like a packet of
for ENTAV INRA®, the trademark for
wildflower seeds.
the French clones.
“Just as packets of wildflower seeds
The company has partnerships to
can contain 20, 30 or 100 varieties,
provide material around the world, in
so too should your vineyard. If
New Zealand’s case, that partner is
in in the future it doesn’t contain
Riversun Nurseries.
somewhere between 20 and 40
In Marlborough last month, Laurent
different clones of Pinot Noir, you
said given the young age of our
will never achieve the shading and
vineyards here, there is always a risk
nuance that is necessary.”
of something happening that could
As more and more growers look to
cause devastation.
replant vines that have died, Laurent
“A vine is something that lives, so
believes they should be looking at
mutation can happen. It is dangerous
re-planting with a blend of clones to
to put the eggs all in the same
help provide that diversity and also a
basket. That is why in France we
safety net.
normally plant a number of clones,
What some growers may not realise
not 10 to a vineyard, but say five
is that many of the so called clones widely used in this region are in fact
clones which is enough.” It is not just the fear of some virus or
Viticulturist Richard Smart made
“mass selections”, not certified clones
disease affecting a particular clone that
similar comments when he spoke in
that undergo extensive testing before
needs to be taken into consideration.
Marlborough earlier this year, claiming
they are released onto the market. For
Laurent says the reliance on just one
the reliance on UCD was concerning.
example, before ENTAV releases any
clone means the ensuing wines can lack
“In terms of vulnerability surely that is not
new clone, it will have to go through a
diversity.
a good thing. For Marlborough, having
process of testing that can take up to 25
“You can’t take the benefit from using
such a limited genetic base for such a
years.
additional clones to bring diversity and
big industry is not a good thing.”
It all begins in the vineyard, one that
complexity to the wine.”
It’s not just Sauvignon Blanc either that
is between 50 and 60 years old. The
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purpose is to locate significant clones, that is sub categories of a variety that are selected for specific qualities that differentiate them from other vines of the same variety. This can take up to two years of observation during which the vines are monitored for virus and viticultural health. Once they are happy with the particular vine, cuttings are taken and further virus testing is undertaken. After a period of years, the cuttings are replanted back in the area of origin alongside other suitable candidates and at least two control cuttings. Over the next five years, the vines are analysed, with all aspects of viticultural data collected. Once the vine is considered mature, (about five years) the fruit is harvested for micro vinification – not just once, but for three successive vintages. It is only if the original selection passes all those phases, that the company can then request official registration. So given it can take up to 25 years for a new clone to be released, how does ENTAV cater for the inevitable changing requirements of growers? “That is the biggest question,” Laurent said. “We now have three generations of clonal selection. Between the 1960s and 70s, people wanted clean material with high yields. Then we moved to clones with moderate yields, lower fertility(bunches per cane) and higher sugars. We are now in the third generation trying to complete the natural diversity. We now try to get clones suitable for a later ripening period (in response to global warming), with lower sugar content (lower alcohol in the end wines),and adding further complexity to the wines” All of the first and second generation clones are still available, if future trends swing back to what was fashionable previously.
Sauvignon Blanc 905
NEW ZEALAND’S LARGEST SELECTION OF CLASSIC VARIETIES & NEW IMPORTS
“We still have them in our portfolio - we just have to propagate them.” However in terms of varietal fashions, Laurent believes there is unlikely to be any major swing away from the classic varieties. “There are six block buster varieties. They are; Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay and Sauvignon. We are not going to change that picture in the near
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0800 11 37 47
future. There are some secondary varieties that are more used as a blender or additional variety, but they will not replace the big six. They are here to stay. It will take at least a generation for that global picture to drastically change.”
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Marlborough Dazzles TESSA NICHOLSON
What a night for Marlborough wine producers at the Diamond Jubilee Easter Wine Show last month. Nine out of 17 trophies came
• Gewürztraminer – 2 Golds
Marlborough’s way, including Champion
• Riesling – 6 Golds
Wine of the Show and Champion
• Pinot Gris – 5 Golds
Winemaker. The crème de la crème of the
• Sweet wines – 1 Gold
awards was Matua Valley’s Marlborough
• Malbec/Merlot – 1 Gold
Chardonnay 2011, winning the varietal
• Pinot Noir – 6 Golds
trophy and the Wine of the Show. The
• Sparkling – 6 Golds
hat trick for the company came when
There is great news for the whole region
winemaker Nikolai St George won the
with that tally of trophies and medals,
Winemaker of the Year.
especially given the varietal range and
Hunter’s Wines were also having a great
the age of the wines that won.
night winning the Heritage Rose Bowl,
The full list of trophy winners are:
for the best set of three wines of different
Champion Wine of the Show – Matua
aged vintages, with their Riesling 2012,
Valleys Single Marlborough Chardonnay
2009, 2006. Owner Jane Hunter was also
2011
inaugurated into the New Zealand Wine
Winemaker of the Year – Nikolai St
Hall of Fame, the first woman ever.
George – Matua Valley Wines
It’s a long time since Marlborough has so
Chardonnay: Matua Valley Single
dominated a wine show with such style
Vineyard Marlborough Chardonnay 2011
and across such a range of varieties.
Gewürztraminer: Saint Clair Godfrey’s
Seven of the nine white wine trophies
Creek Reserve Gewurztraminer 2009
came Marlborough’s way for;
Sauvignon Blanc: Saint Clair Wairau
Blanc de Blancs 2008
Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling,
Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Heritage Rose Bowl – Hunter’s Rieslings
Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, Sparkling
Riesling: Crosse Vineyard Marlborough
2012, 2009, 2006
and Dessert.
Riesling 2012
That follows a gold medal tally of 53
Pinot Gris: Brancott Estate Special
across nine varietals.
Reserve Pinot Gris 2012
Breaking those down, Marlborough won
Sweet Wine: Giesen The Brothers
the following;
Marlborough Late Harvest Sauvignon
• Chardonnay – 8 Golds
Blanc 2012
• Sauvignon Blanc – 18 Golds
Sparkling: Deutz Marlborough Cuvee
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Winemaker Of The Year Totally taken by surprise, Winemaker of the Year Nikolai St George, was still pinching himself two days after the biggest night of his career. But the 36-year-old Auckland based winemaker couldn’t even take time to revel in the
win, given he was off to ProWein within 48
that information to develop our own
over the managing director’s role of the
hours of the awards ceremony.
winemaking style. That’s the fantastic
fledgling wine company. She has been at
It was an extraordinary night for Matua
thing about being part of the Treasury
the helm ever since.
Valley Wines – and the first time the
company – you can draw on amazing
She received an OBE in 1993 for her
company has ever taken out Champion
experience. There is always someone
services to viticulture and in 1997 was
Wine of a Show with a Chardonnay.
who has done it before you and has a
awarded an Honorary Doctorate of
“I was more than surprised,” he said. “It
really good insight on what to expect.”
Science from Massey University. In
was crazy. I think Sam Glaetzer (Director
Chardonnay is not the only varietal Matua
October 2003, Jane received the
of New Zealand Wine Production and
Valley is focusing on. Well known for their
inaugural Wine & Spirit Competition
Brand) ended up spilling some wine over
Sauvignon Blanc, Nikolai says they are
Women in Wine Award (UK), an
himself (at the announcement). I think he
also focusing on Pinot Noir.
international accolade recognising
was even more surprised than I was.”
“That is another project we want to drive
the contribution she has made to the
The fruit for the winning wine comes from
and see do well.”
wine industry in New Zealand and
a vineyard in the Southern Valleys,
overseas. In the 2009 New Year’s
which Nikolai describes as having
Honours list Jane received a CNZM
“lovely soil. I wanted to hold on to
(Companion of the New Zealand
that quality that I saw in the vineyard,
Order of Merit) for services to the
I knew it would present well in the
viticulture industry.
wine.”
More recently Jane was recognised
Despite growing up in the non-
in the New Zealand Trade and
winemaking region of King Country,
Enterprise’s World Class New
Nikolai knew from an early age he
Zealand awards, when she received
wanted to be a winemaker. At age
the manufacturing category of
17 he headed to Gisborne for a
the awards which recognise
Polytech course, and later headed to
New Zealanders who make an
Charles Sturt Unviersity in Australia
outstanding contribution to New
to complete his qualifications. While
Zealand’s economic development.
he is based in Auckland, he says he
Jane has served on the Board of
has been able to draw on a wealth of
the Wine Institute of New Zealand
knowledge from other winemakers in
and was a foundation director of the
the Treasury Wines portfolio.
New Zealand Wine Guild, the export
“We have been given a project of creating some of the best Chardonnay we can, so that has involved drilling down into what style we want to make,” he said. “The links we have with Treasury and companies like Penfolds, Coldstream Hills and Devil’s Lair has been important. I approached those guys and talked to them about how they do things, what they look for in fruit and what they do in certain situations. Then we used all
Inductee to Wine Hall of Fame Known as the First Lady of New Zealand wine, the latest accolade follows a long list of achievements for Jane Hunter. It is 30 years since she arrived in Marlborough, to take up the position as
arm of the then Wine Institute of NZ. She has also served on the New Zealand 2000 Task Force Board, Horticulture Research Board, NZ Trade & Enterprise Board and Plant & Food Research Board.
national viticulturist for Montana Wines. In 1984 she married Ernie Hunter, who died just three years later. Jane decided not to sell Ernie’s legacy, instead opting to take
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Generation Y-ine TESSA NICHOLSON
Alan Peters-Oswald Alan Peters-Oswald believes he has one of the best jobs in the world. Not only because he is sole winemaker in charge of three wine brands, but also because he gets to spend time in what he describes as two of the most beautiful places in New Zealand; Central Otago and Marlborough. Both have a call on him, he spent his early years living in Roxburgh, in the heart of Central, but did his studying here in Marlborough. Alan is the winemaker in charge of Nanny Goat Vineyard, Totara Wines and Clayfork Vineyard. All three are owned by Australian company Endeavour Vineyards, who also own labels Catalina Sounds and Crowded House. The Nanny Goat label is sourced entirely from Central Otago and currently produces just Pinot Noir, although a Syrah and Chardonnay, also from Central are in the offing later this year. Totora has two wines in its portfolio, a Central Pinot
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and a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc,
about making wine. The first year flew by,
Originally my goal was to come up
while Clayfork Vineyard produces an
and even after a brief vintage experience
here and learn the viticulture side of the
oak aged Marlborough Sauvignon. You
at what was Montana Wines at the time,
industry. But the experiences I had in the
can be excused for not recognising the
he was still gearing himself up for a
winery that vintage captured my attention
labels, as close to all of the wine is sold
career as a viticulturist. What changed
and imagination. It was a turning point.”
directly into the Australian market.
that was an eight-week vintage at Villa
The placement provided Alan with the
So how did a boy growing up on a
opportunity to do more than just lug
lifestyle block in Roxburgh, which
hoses around and watch over the
ironically was also the home to a herd of angora goats, (don’t you love the synergy?), end up working in the wine industry. While he would like to say it was because he was enamoured by wine from an early age, that wasn’t really the case. He had left Roxburgh prior to High School, for the bigger lights of Dunedin. Science was an alright subject, but Alan preferred the horticultural side of school. Something his teachers tried to talk him out of. Apparently they thought he was wasting his talents taking the subject – “they said it was for the naughty kids, or those that didn’t want to achieve anything.” How wrong were they? “I really enjoyed it though. I kind of envisaged growing something, maybe grapes – as at that time vineyard plantings in Central Otago were starting to boom.” Unfortunately the school’s hort programme didn’t include anything about grapes or wine. “That was a bit of a shame. I had seen and read a few articles and spent a lot of time in Central, and the growth of the wine industry there interested me.” On leaving school he decided to take
“I have the best of both worlds. I get to spend a fair chunk of my time in Central Otago as well as here in Marlborough, two of the most beautiful places in the country. And they are the two key wine growing regions for me. Plus I get to make the two big varietals – Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.”
receival area. He also got to go out among the vines, taste fruit and follow the process of wine from vine to tank. Once vintage finished, it was back to the classroom – and his mind was set – he wanted to be a winemaker, not a viticulturist. Although like many students in the same position, the making of a mirco vinification as part of the course was a timely reminder that winemaking isn’t as easy as it looks. With 20 litres of Riesling juice, that had been sitting in the chiller while the students were on vintage leave, he had to come up with a wine that showed what he had learned during the 18 months prior. “It wasn’t my best attempt. I guess I made a few rooky mistakes. I’m a bit of a perfectionist, I like to get things right, so when it didn’t taste quite as I had expected, I was a bit disappointed.” When asked if he had to make that same wine again, what he would do different, he thinks for a moment, then says; “There were a few miscalculated acid adjustments and things like that. Maybe some of my additions could have been more precise. And I think I would try and be more precise in what style I wanted to produce. I
that glimmer of interest a bit further,
was going for a dry Riesling, but the
by enrolling in the NMIT Viticulture and Wine Production course, here in
Maria, in his second year of the course.
problem is you go in with so many ideas
Marlborough. Talk about jumping in at
“That’s when I really caught the winery
that it becomes a bit of a mish mash of
the deep end. He admits he knew very
bug. It was so vibrant, energetic, with
things. But it is so important to have those
little about growing grapes and even less
so many different people and cultures.
opportunities. I learnt the lesson very
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quickly, that you have to be very accurate
It wasn’t an easy decision to leave
to have healthy balanced vines in Central
with everything you do.”
Cloudy Bay, but when the job came
Otago you can’t carry large crops.
Despite graduating with the Diploma in
up at Endeavour Vineyards, it seemed
“Our home vineyard in the Waihopai
Viticulture and Wine Production, Alan
like the right time for Alan to move on.
can be fairly similar to Central in terms
didn’t move into the wine industry straight
He has been in the role as winemaker
of temperature with extremes of both
away. He had met his (future) wife in
since October 2010 – which was still a
heat and cold quite often occurring on
Dunedin and moved back there while
difficult time for wineries in New Zealand
the same day. Our Sauvignon Blanc
she completed her degree in Nursing.
following the 2008 over supply and the
really benefits from some interesting
By 2005 though he and Amy were back
GFC. His brief was to gain recognition
soil profiles there, with seams of clay
in Marlborough, with Alan working for
and grow the profile of the three labels in
forked throughout the silt loams and
Jackson Estate, under the tutelage of
his portfolio.
alluvails – we see some really unique
Matt Peterson-Green, one of two mentors
“It was a fantastic opportunity and a bit of
characters that we don’t see from other
he gives credit to for his current skills.
a leap of faith really. But it’s great having
vineyards we source fruit from. Although
“I was pretty green then, but Matt saw my
another winemaker (responsible for
making Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir
willingness to learn and really got behind
Catalina Sounds and Crowded House) to
is so different it all begins in the vineyard
that. He gave me a good variety of jobs
work alongside and gain input from. That
for both varieties – top quality fruit is
to do, which in turn gave me confidence.
has been reassuring.”
paramount .”
Being given trust when you are learning
There are a number of aspects of the
With the two biggies behind him, Alan is
the ropes is so important.”
job he loves; one being, the chance to
now moving on to others. He produced
From Jackson Estate to Cloudy Bay,
make wine from two different and iconic
Nanny Goat’s first Syrah out of Central
where he spent the next five years,
wine regions, and the other, being able
Otago last year, as well as a small parcel
working his way up from cellar hand,
to concentrate on New Zealand’s most
of Chardonnay. And he would love to
to senior cellar hand and eventually
renowned varieties.
think that the future holds a place for a
assistant winemaker. Given the varietal
“I have the best of both worlds. I get to
Marlborough Chardonnay as well. In the
mix of Cloudy Bay, Alan got to learn
spend a fair chunk of my time in Central
meantime, he is hanging out for the 2013
about a myriad of styles and it was here
Otago as well as here in Marlborough,
vintage, which he believes could be one
where his true love of Pinot Noir and what
two of the most beautiful places in the
to be remembered. Even if it will be a
could be achieved, was honed.
country. And they are the two key wine
smaller than hoped for one out of Central
“It’s one of those fickle varieties that if
growing regions for me. Plus I get to
due to the November frosts.
you don’t get right, firstly in the vineyard
make the two big varietals – Sauvignon
“I understand that happens sometimes.
but also in the winery it shows in the
Blanc and Pinot Noir.”
It’s a form of farming after all and there
end product. Plus being at Cloudy Bay
While the two regions have a number of
has to be some sort of agricultural risk
and seeing the multiple uses for both
similarities, Alan has come to appreciate
involved, especially in a climate that can
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir for sparkling
more than most, the differences.
be so extreme.”
wine as well as still, changed my outlook
“As a winemaker, obviously climatically
on things. I gained a much better
Central can be pretty brutal in terms of
appreciation for wine in general.”
climate, particularly frost and its effect
Head winemaker Tim Heath is another of
on crops. It has shorter summers than
the mentors that he will be ever grateful
Marlborough, but they are intensely hot.
to.
So you are fighting against time when it
“He always had good advice and if I had
comes to harvest. It’s dry and it’s hot, it’s
a question, he always had the time to
an arid sort of climate. The vines have to
answer it. He threw me in the deep end at
work hard to get established and get their
times, but I guess he wouldn’t have done
roots down to water and nutrients. The
that if he didn’t think I could cope.”
soils aren’t as fertile as Marlborough, so
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Apple Triumphs in Online Wine Buying REBECCA GIBB FOR WINE SEARCHER
The rocketing popularity of smartphones is changing the way that wine lovers get their information. How did we manage without smartphones giving us ready access to the internet in the palms of our hands? For more than one billion people around the world, that is a puzzling question. Like them or loathe them, there are now more mobile devices in the world than ever before. In November, 123.3 million people in the United States alone were using smartphones, according to a survey by internet information provider comScore. That number is set to increase if the figures for 2012 are a sign of things to come. Global market research firm International Data Corporation estimates that 717 million smartphones were shipped to retailers worldwide last year – a 45 percent increase on 2011. Rising smartphone ownership is affecting how wine lovers access their information. In 2012, 28 percent of Wine-Searcher users accessed the site using mobile devices – up from 17 percent the previous year. Similarly, Britain’s oldest wine merchant, Berry Bros. & Rudd, saw the number of visits to its site by mobile users nearly double – from 298,508 in 2011 to 574,448, or 19 percent of all visits. And visits by smartphone users translated into sales: 2.1 million pounds’ ($3.37 million) worth in 2012, which represents 12 percent of Berry’s website revenue. Naked Wines, a UK-based company
which recently expanded to the United States and Australia, reports that 24 percent of all its visits are now via mobile. The brand of phone that most visitors use to access wine sites is revealing: wine drinkers are not only grape lovers, but Apple lovers, too, with the majority of mobile visits coming from Apple-made devices. For example, 80 percent of Wine-Searcher’s mobile visitors accessed the site from an iPhone (42 percent), iPad (37 percent), or iPod (1 percent). It’s the same story at Naked Wines, according to director Rowan Gormley, who reports that more than 90 percent of its mobile visits come from Apple devices. Equally, at Berry Bros. & Rudd 84 percent of all mobile visits take place on an iPhone or iPad. E-commerce director Charlie Bennett says users of iOS, the operating system that powers iPhones and iPads, are the dominant segment. “We have seen a 92 percent growth in visits from mobile year-to-year,” explains Bennett. “The overwhelming proportion of these increased visits on mobile has originated from iPads and iPhones. There’s very little growth from other devices such as Android and Blackberry.” These figures are startling when you consider that 72 percent of all smartphones use the Android operating system, while just under 14 percent use iOS. Apple’s iPhone and iPad represent
a relatively small proportion of the mobile device market, yet they are used by the overwhelming majority of wine website visitors. Martin Brown, chief executive of WineSearcher, believes the high percentage of visits to specialist wine websites reflects the users’ higher earnings. “Wine enthusiasts and Apple customers have a similar demographic. They tend to be financially better off, which could explain why the majority of mobile device users coming to our sites are using an iPhone or iPad.” Bennett agrees. “I suspect there is a significantly higher net-worth value of iPhone, and definitely iPad, users compared to other mobile device users.” However, Bennett adds that there’s also a technical issue which application creators face when it comes to Android versus Apple. “There is a cost implication for developing multi-platform apps (i.e. apps that work on Android and Blackberry etc. as well as on Apple devices), but these costs are now coming down, so I think we will see multi-platform wine apps becoming the norm in the next 12 months.” Until then, the wine industry needs to be aware that Apple users are the main visitors to mobile sites and develop apps accordingly.” This article was first published in the news and features section of WineSearcher.com.”
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Summer of Riesling TESSA NICHOLSON
Winemakers love it, connoisseurs love it – but Riesling is a much under rated drink as far as consumers go. The annual Summer of Riesling is helping to change that. The recent summer was the second
Andrew Hedley from Framingham Wines,
conditions and settled seasons. There is
time New Zealand Riesling aficionados
says it’s hard to explain why this one
great ripening during fall, with cool nights
got behind the concept of a Summer
variety is such a hard sell to consumers.
and we get nice diurnal shifts. Riesling
of Riesling. From the beginning of
“Many wiser people than me have tried
loves that. Plus we have a myriad of
December, right through until the end of
to answer that one! Who can say? Maybe
soil types throughout New Zealand. We
February, more than 45 wineries, plus
there are a lot of misconceptions about
are probably making more interesting
bars and restaurants throughout the
what Riesling wines are, hang overs from
Riesling per capita of wineries, than just
country extolled their clients to try at least
the past. I actually think it’s great that
about any other country in the world at
a glass of the very noble variety.
it’s not a mainstream wine, and hope it
the moment.”
Originating in Germany, Riesling is a
stays that way. Anything that becomes
And Marlborough is at the forefront of
bit of a chameleon, given it can take on
mainstream also tends to become
that, given it is the country’s largest
many forms. An aromatic, with flowery,
generic and rubbish shortly afterwards.”
Riesling producer. Currently there are 719
almost perfumed aromas, is often
Claire Allan of Huia Wines says
productive hectares of Riesling in New
described as a foodie wine, given the
consumers seem to be uncertain about
Zealand, of which Marlborough has 311.
range of styles it can take. Dry, medium,
what they are going to get with a Riesling.
The next largest producer is Waipara,
sweet and dessert, it is multi functional.
“Like Gewürztraminer, Riesling is very
with 224 ha.
While these are great attributes for one
distinctive. But for the consumer, there is
In Marlborough’s case, it is the fifth
grape to have, it does create confusion
no surety of sugar level. There is a lack of
largest variety, behind Sauvignon Blanc,
within the market place. Is that the reason
clarity on the style of Riesling.”
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris.
it’s not as popular as other aromatics?
Summer of Riesling coordinator Angela
Andrew believes one of the beauties of
Clifford from
Riesling is that everywhere it is grown in
Tongue in
the world, it has something special about
Groove Wines
it.
in Waipara,
“Usually simply a coming together of soil,
says Riesling,
climate, aspect and maybe personalities.
more than
In Marlborough the climate generally
just about
comes to the party and gives us good
any other
natural acid as a core, that the rest of
grape is a
the wine can be moulded around; ripe
true reflection
flavours with maybe a Meyer lemon and
of where it is
orange citrus, rather than lime signature.
grown.
And the real possibility of some botrytis to
“New Zealand
play with. Our lighter river bed soils to me
has beautiful
promote delicacy in aromatics and palate
growing
structure, whereas the heavier soils
Riesling, Photo Max Marriott
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maybe give a bit more power.”
and Waipara has had the “In Praise of
the programme, they have noticed an
Claire agrees. “There are multiple
Riesling” event for a while now too. It
increase in cellar door sales.
different styles of Riesling in Marlborough.
would be nice to see Marlborough do
“If you get involved in something like this,
We have so many different micro climates
something that’s not a ‘me too’ event,
you have to make an additional effort to
and quite extreme conditions which help
but I’m not sure what form that could
get people visiting to try your Riesling.
produce those different styles,” Claire
take. The great thing about Summer of
We have sold a lot more through the
said.
Riesling however, is that it’s a very much
cellar door, especially of our dessert
Given Marlborough is the largest regional
a ‘do it yourself’ type thing in spirit. The
Riesling. But this was our first year and
producer, it is not surprising that the
Riesling community tends not to be very
I think next year we could be more
Summer of Riesling had more local
parochial in my experience, so there are
effective by creating our own programme
wineries taking part than any other, with
plenty of possibilities on the small scale
and being more organised at the cellar
17 companies involved. However Andrew
to give any event a multi regional or even
door. I stuck my toe in the water this year
would like to see more happen right here
international flavour. For Marlborough a
and I know that I have to do more next
in Marlborough to celebrate our own
simple Summer of Riesling dinner would
year.”
distinctive Rieslings.
be a start!”
“Nelson has had the Aromatics
Claire says despite this being the first
Symposium for a number of years
year Huia Wines have taken part in
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McAlpines Roundwood Limited
Suppliers of
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Grant Cathcart Phone 03 313 8339 Fax 03 313 3767 Mobile 021 511 460
roundwood@mcalpines.co.nz
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Wine Unwound ANNABELLE LATZ
Starting out as a rookie, Annabelle Latz is learning from the ground up what the wine industry is all about. Each month she will share through Winepress, her learning experience. Brix but not Mortar
rows of tanks, hoses, skips, wall
Marlborough’s shape, form
charts, boxes and containers
and colour changes each early
of various product; a laboratory
autumn when harvest rolls
boasting an array of equipment,
around. I observed last year’s
and machines and devices that
harvest from the perimeter, with
made the occasional whirring
curiosity and fascination. This
and ‘beep’ noises.
year though, I am going to be a
Managers, wine makers, lab
part of it, and I can’t wait to get
staff, assistants and cellar
my hands dirty.
hands were all helping to create
I am a brand new cellar hand, I
a daily buzz of excitement,
have lots to learn, and learning
energy and creativity.
must be done quickly.
The trick to being a brand new
I’m learning the basics like; all
cellar hand in a complex facility
grapes grow up being green,
of massive scale, is to take
with some turning red later on,
each step at a time, not try and
brix are sugar levels, not what
understand everything at once,
houses are made of, and there is
and not become overwhelmed.
no such thing as a silly question.
This skill is one I had to work on.
I can’t wait to get my new steel
Now, after just over a week in
cap white gumboots, and
the job, I have become familiar
lunches during vintage sound
with daily lab tasks; such as
really yummy.
carrying out sulphur tests, using
Casting my mind back to my first
the wine scan to measure juice
day at New Zealand Wineries in
or wine samples for qualities like
Riverlands, I would be greatly
acidity and brix levels, carrying
stretching the truth if I said I am
out benchmark data collection,
now breezing through the daily
calibrations, and recording data
tasks that life in the laboratory
in the appropriate computer
holds for me, or that I have a
systems – and it is actually
vast knowledge of what goes on
making sense! Well, some of
everywhere else in the winery.
the time.
But, I’m getting there.
Taking maturity samples for
My initial impressions were just
example. This involves taking a
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bunch of loose grapes, ‘smashing’ them to get the juice, and putting the sample through a series of hoops back at the lab, to assess how far away harvesting will be. It means an abundance of sticky, messy tasks, a fair bit of organisation, and some concentration too. Out amongst the tanks, I can now confidently take collection samples of wine that is potentially ready for bottling. This involves skipping up and down stairs to the top of tanks with half-full buckets of wine, after taking samples in small jars or bigger bottles, then being sure to put the wine back into the corresponding tank, and remembering to turn the valve off before dislodging it from the tank. And on the other end of the scale of collection samples, it is magic to see numerous rows of oak barrels housing the red wines. The aroma of the ageing process is sweet and lovely. For taking samples from the barrels, I use a lovely sounding device called a ‘wine thief,’ a curvy narrow pipe made from stainless steel, which I dunk into the barrel and pull up a small amount of wine with. It is a good thing I take these samples at 9am, not 5pm, because the berry oaky smell creates a thirst. In a nutshell, I now have an overview of ‘wine’ coming in as its purest form, turning into a sticky mess, being crafted in tanks and barrels, and eventually being pumped out as the lovely aroma and liquid we all know, love and enjoy. With a few weeks under my belt, I wonder what the next month is going to bring? I’ll let you know in the next issue of Winepress.
So Who Is Our Rookie Cellar Hand? Meet Annabelle Latz The sun was just rising over the hills in
Congo in Central Africa, Gottfried took
the distance in the south of France, as
to the hills of southern France, with,
I pedaled the final rise to Val D’Iris on
as the story goes, a stick or two of
the outskirts of Seillans, Provence.
dynamite under his arm, to blow up
It was September 2011, and ‘vendage’
some land to make way for some vine
or what we call harvest, was just
planting.
around the corner.
Domaine des Aspras, 25 hectares,
The early morning light sharply
is still owned and managed by my
contrasted against the numerous
relatives in France today, now with four
ancient stone and white washed
generations living there.
dwellings.
I embraced the opportunity to spend
The air, crisp and clear, was a mere
time there during my travels, and it
tease for the hot dry day ahead.
sowed the seed for my next career
My first call up for harvest work in
venture.
France required me ripping the surplus
As a journalist, I moved to
leaves from the vines, to maximise the
Marlborough in January 2012.
light access for the grapes, during the
The vibrancy, energy and innovation
final days before harvest.
of the wine industry captured my heart
A couple of weeks later I returned, this
and interest immediately, and it was
time with secateurs in hand, to take
not long before I decided I wanted to
part in the big grape pick.
specialise as a writer in this area.
Pickers would sing amongst the vines,
To be a successful writer, it is essential
strong black coffee and dark chocolate
I know the workings of the industry,
was served during the morning, and
from the bottom up.
it all added to the created magic of
I want to know all about what goes on
a precious way of life in France, the
during harvest, pre harvest, and post
world of wine making.
harvest, from the laughter and energy
It is a precious travelling memory of my
to the tears and disasters, and every
five-month working stint in Provence.
detail in between.
And it was another chapter to an
So here it goes.
already existing personal tale.
From my brand new position with
Because my great uncle Gottfried
New Zealand Wineries Ltd, as a cellar
Latz set up a vineyard and winery on
hand, I invite you to enjoy my monthly
the outskirts of a tiny village called
column in Wine Press Magazine, and
Correns, in Provence, in the early
get a giggle or two from my daily blog,
1960’s.
(annabellelatz.blogspot.com) where I
After fleeing Germany during the early
promise to make no airbrushes of the
stages of the Second World War, and
daily grind of life as a cellar hand.
pursuing a period of time in the Belgian
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New Icon Sauvignon Blanc TESSA NICHOLSON
After a decade of consideration and three years of making, Brancott Estate has just released a limited edition Icon Sauvignon Blanc. It is 40 years since Montana Wines
In 2008 they began unravelling the
planted their first vines in Marlborough,
production of their high end Sauvignons,
35 years since the first plantings of
from the viticulture through to the bottling.
Sauvignon Blanc. A few name changes
Denis Dubourdieu, Professor of Oenology
along the way, the company now known
at the University of Bordeaux, was
as Brancott Estate has launched a wine
employed as a consultant, spending time
that takes its flagship variety to a whole
with all the relevant parties involved in the
new level.
Icon project.
Brancott Estate Chosen Rows
The end result was 14 vineyard blocks,
Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 is to
spread across various Brancott Estate
be released this month, with only 3,500
vineyards, being selected for trial. The
individually numbered bottles available.
vines within these parcels underwent
With 1,500 for the New Zealand market,
specific vineyard management which
the remainder will be heading overseas
included pruning back to two canes,
to Australia, United Kingdom and United
shoot thinning and then crop thinning
States.
back to one bunch per shoot. Overall the
While not the first alternative and
vines were producing between five and
aged Sauvignon Blanc to be created
six tonnes per hectare, way lower than
in Marlborough, Chosen Rows is very
average.
much a first for Brancott Estate. Its
All fruit was hand harvested, and kept
gestation has been 10 years of research,
separate in the winery. Later those
discussion and soul searching. And it
14 parcels were blended to create a
is a huge step forward from anything the
2009 Icon wine. While it was never
company has produced in the past –
commercially bottled, the ensuing
including the Letter Series.
Patrick Materman
wine did show some startling results. According to Patrick, the best of the 14
“We launched the Letter Series in 1991 and originally the B Series was barrel
began experimenting, as we began to
parcels involved, all came from Brancott
fermented and had things going on,”
understand the vineyard sites more and
Vineyard.
chief winemaker Patrick Materman says.
more. All our winemaking team have
So in 2010, the only fruit used for the Icon
“But as the 90s moved on, we worried
between 10 and 30 years experience, as
Sauvignon Blanc came from identified
that the oak may be dumbing down the
does our viticultural team. That collective
rows within Brancott Vineyard – leading
fruit. So we went from 40 percent barrel
knowledge is very important. We realised
to the final name of the wine – Brancott
fermented to four percent. By 2000
we needed to use that (knowledge) to
Estate Chosen Rows.
we had no oak. By the mid 2000s we
take our wine to another level.”
Those rows (all 18 years of age) have
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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough
proven to provide exceptional quality
of winemakers
fruit, along with ripe and special flavour
throughout the
profiles. Once hand picked, the fruit
region in recent
was lightly pressed at 500 litres per
years.
tonne, fermented with natural yeast and
“I was looking for
close to 50 percent of the wine was
complexity with
aged in French oak Cuves and Foudres.
textural interest
Following fermentation the wine had up to
and layers of
eight months of lees contact.
flavour, to create
This is not a wine that will be released
a wine driven
every year. The 2009 wine wasn’t
stylistically by
commercially bottled, the 2010 is just
palate weight and
being released. It was decided the
concentration by
2011 wine didn’t hit the required quality
introducing more
parameters, while the 2012 is still in
savoury elements
barrel. Happy so far with that, Patrick
than we usually
says it won’t be released until 2015.
see in Sauvignon
While this wine is very much a move into
Blanc. Certainly the potential to create
on premise outlets.
the future, Patrick says they never wanted
ageability in such a wine was one of the
And Brancott Estate may take the Icon
to eliminate the ‘classic’ Marlborough
key things I was after.”
project on to other varieties, in particular
Sauvignon Blanc style.
Brancott Estate Chosen Rows
Pinot Noir.
“Instead we have just added to that.
Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010
“We already do some amazing things
The fruit purity and lively acidity is
will sell for $80 a bottle, and while the
with Pinot Noir, but I think we could take it
unmistakably Marlborough.”
majority will be exported, 1,500 bottles
to an even greater level.”
The winemaking style will also add to
will be available in New Zealand, from the
Watch this space!
the age ability of the wine he believes,
Brancott Estate Heritage Centre’s cellar
something that has been on the minds
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23
Sale and Supply of Alcohol Act Passed into Law Legislation reforming New Zealand’s laws for the sale and supply of alcoholic beverages have been passed into law. New Zealand Winegrowers was successful in achieving a number of amendments to the original Bill that will benefit our members. • The Government specifically acknowledged that winery cellar door operations generally pose a lower risk of alcohol related harm than other types of licensed premises, and have high compliance costs in comparison to this level of harm. Winery off-licence premises also make an important contribution to regional tourism. • Licensing requirements for winery offlicences (cellar doors) were reduced by exempting them from having to have a manager on duty at all times when alcohol is being sold and introducing a regulation-making power to allow the Government to vary notification requirements for different types of lowrisk licences (including winery cellar doors). • A specific definition of “grape wine” was introduced consistent with the Wine Act so that it could be differentiated from other products. • An exemption was allowed from the requirement for on-licence holders to supply low alcohol beverages where the licence holder is a manufacturer of alcoholic beverages (e.g. a winery restaurant). Non-alcoholic beverages must still be made available. • The restriction on advertising discounts of more than 25% was relaxed to allow for such discounts to be offered at the licensed premises or on a winery’s website or mail order catalogue (if their licence is endorsed for this purpose). • An exemption to the rule against advertising alcohol that is free of charge was introduced for on-premise sampling.
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• An amendment allowing promotions offering goods or services on the condition of purchase of alcohol (e.g. competitions) to be made on premise. The issues that remain of greatest concern to New Zealand Winegrowers are the very likely increase in licensing fees and the cost and possibility of unforeseen consequences from the development of Local Alcohol Policies. NZW is continuing to work on these issues and we strongly encourage all members to get involved in local consultations around your Local Alcohol Policy. Sale and Supply of Alcohol Act in Summary • National maximum trading hours apply from 18 December 2013: - 8 am - 4 am for on-licences; and - 7 am - 11 pm for off-licences; • The following types of promotions are offences: - promoting excessive drinking; - promoting alcohol in a way that has special appeal to minors; advertising free alcohol or discounts of 25% or more; - offering free goods or services with the purchase of alcohol • The Liquor Licensing Authority has been replaced by the Alcohol Regulatory and Licensing Authority, which will consider all contested licensing applications and managers certificates, while district licensing agencies will continue to consider all uncontested applications. • The existing district licensing agencies will be replaced by district licensing committees on 18 December 2013 and from that date they will decide both contested and uncontested licence and managers’ certificate applications;
The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough
• From 18 June 2013, the criteria against which licence applications are considered will be extended to include whether granting a particular licence is likely to increase alcohol-related harm; and whether it will negatively impact on the community and neighbourhood. • Territorial authorities will be able to develop local alcohol policies, which can come into effect any time after 18 December 2013. Local alcohol policies will determine such things as the trading hours of licensed premises, and the number and kind of licenses permitted in certain locations. Councils must consult the community on any draft policies and Auckland is expected to be the first region to develop theirs. • A separate consultation process will take place in relation to the introduction of a risk-based licence fee scheme. It is likely that there will be a mixture of nationally and locally set fees. The risk factors are yet to be decided but could include trading hours and licensees’ history of compliance. • Supermarkets and grocery store alcohol displays will be restricted to a single area. If you have any questions about the new legislation and/or how you can participate in the local alcohol policy and license fee consultation processes underway in your region, please contact John Barker, phone 09 9161561, email john@ nzwine.com or Olivia Grainger, phone 09 3065558, email olivia@nzwine.com
Using Technology Among the Vines A new programme designed for iPads, is being put to use here in Marlborough’s vineyards. Called Vinny, it is making life much easier for one of the region’s larger contractors. Employing around 400 staff, Vinepower
holds all of the relevant
is one of Marlborough’s leading vineyard
information and is simple to
contract companies. Throughout the year
use for people who are used
they are involved in all aspects of the
to manual labour and have
viticultural field, from planting, to picking,
big fat clunky fingers!”
pruning to wire lifting. Like all contractors,
A job contract is set up in
weather can create urgency for jobs to
the FileMaker database. A
be completed. As workers are paid per
detailed quote is generated
vine it is essential to gather job details
and sent to clients. Once the
quickly and accurately.
client confirms, a job card
Vinepower had always used a manual
and vineyard schedule is
process to collect these details in the
produced and passed onto
vineyard and then feed the data into
the supervisor.
separate payroll and invoicing packages.
In the vineyard workers enter
Because it was extremely labour-
their names and the vine
intensive and prone to error, this process
rows they are working in onto
was putting Vinepower’s competitive
the schedule sheets. During
edge under threat.
the day the supervisor gets
It was impossible for the manager to
these details direct from the
purchase an off the shelf solution, they
workers and enters them into
were either too complicated or too
the appropriate job on his
expensive. Vinepower partnered
iPad.
with Foundataion Data and together with
With poor cellphone
FileMaker developer Matthew Roscoe
coverage in many rural parts
they developed a FileMaker iPad solution,
of Marlborough accessing
called Vinny.
real time data on our server
Jono Bushell takes technology into the vineyards with a
Vinepower director Jono Bushell says:
was not an option. They
specialised iPad programme for contractors.
“It was a simple and affordable solution
needed something that they
and easily modified to our changing
could capture data on and download at
“It has improved our job management
needs. Most important was ease of use
a later stage. As FileMaker Go runs on
ability straight away and we expect some
for our supervisors, many of whom are
iPads and iPhones, they’re able to sync
significant savings over our upcoming
not computer literate. The iPad screen
the system when they’re back in range.
pruning season,” Jono says.
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A New Man In Europe TESSA NICHOLSON
Chris Stroud is NZW’s new Marketing Manager Europe, taking over the position left vacant by David Cox’s departure last year. For Chris, the major goal he has in the
his way back to the UK, he stopped off in
next few years is to create as much
Spain and did one there.
noise and buzz as he can about New
“That was interesting, picking grapes,
Zealand wines in the emerging markets
taking acidity and sugar levels and
of Northern Europe.
making sure they went to the right place.
He sees his new position as one of
They were making a special wine, so I
working collectively with winemakers and
was literally treading grapes one day and
importers in a support role.
picking the next. It was great, learning
Given the emphasis that NZW and NZTE
about the process.”
have placed on Northern Europe, due
Once back in the UK, he worked for
to the opportunity for growth, Chris is
Beringer Blass as they were known then,
involved in developing contacts with key
(Treasury Wines now), in marketing,
influencers in Germany, Sweden and the
events and PR.
Netherlands.
“Through that I established a link with
“Our initial focus is to educate about
generic bodies, such as Wine Australia
Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, they
and New Zealand Winegrowers. I began
are the two varieties we are focusing
to understand the work of those bodies
on, where there is the most potential for
from an importer perspective.” From there to a job with NZW in London,
growth. But we will still be talking about the other varieties. While this is going to
those that are emanating from Europe.
on maternity cover for one year. That
be a challenge, some of these markets
He even spent time in New Zealand,
contract was extended when the person
are very open to new things. I think
admittedly not so much for the wines,
he was covering for decided not to come
the challenge is just getting it into their
but because he wanted to celebrate the
back to work. When David Cox left last
hands. If they try it, they will buy it. That’s
millennium outside of Europe and there
year, Chris stepped into the role on a
the key; getting them to taste it. New
was an added bonus of the America’s
temporary basis and was appointed to
Zealand does have a high price point
Cup taking place in Auckland around
the position earlier this year.
which makes it a bit more difficult. But
the same time. He had hopes of taking
Chris says he is keen to hear from
there is a small portion of the market that
part in a vintage in New Zealand, but that
anyone who is passing through London
is more receptive to expensive wines. If
wasn’t to be, as he ended up working for
to market, or anyone wanting assistance.
New Zealand can tap into that, there is a
Loveridge Wines for just under a year.
“I am keen to meet as many people
big opportunity for growth.”
“When I walked into the shop I don’t think
as I can within the New Zealand wine
With a background working for Spanish
I had ever seen so many New Zealand
industry, so feel free to email me, or give
company Freixenet and later Majestic
wines in one place.”
me a call and pop in for a coffee and a
Wines, he is well placed to compare the
But the thought of a vintage was still on
chat.”
wines from this part of the world, with
his mind, so when he left New Zealand on
Chris’s email is: cstroud@nzwine.com
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Wine Happenings A monthly list of events within the Marlborough wine industry. To have your event included in next month’s calendar please email details to tessa.nicholson@me.com APRIL 12-13
Marlborough/Nelson Primary Industry Sector Conference, “Innovation and Collaboration”– Rutherford Hotel - Nelson
MAY 11 24
Saint Clair Vineyard Half Marathon. Details at www.vineyardhalf.com Entries close for Spiegelau International Wine Competition
JUNE 11 18 – 20 28 – 30
NZW South Island Grape Day – Convention Centre, Blenheim Judging of Spiegelau International Wine Competition – Blenheim Good Food and Wine Show Sydney – NZW participation
JULY 26
Moore Stephens Markhams Marlborough Young Viticulturist of the Year 2013
AUGUST 9 Spiegelau Wine Awards Dinner 27 Chardonnay – Ripe for a reboot – Marlborough Vintners Hotel, Blenheim. Details at www.nzsvo.org.nz 28 – 30 Romeo Bragato Conference. Convention Centre, Blenheim SEPTEMBER 16 Entries open for Marlborough Wine Show OCTOBER 22-23 Judging Marlborough Wine Show NOVEMBER 1 – 3 Marlborough Wine weekend – Details to be confirmed 9
Marlborough Wine Show Awards Dinner
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News From Home and Away Marlborough Environment Awards
baled and burnt to heat water for the
shave all through vintage so this year
2013
winery; experimenting with biochar from
there’s a competition for the best beard –
Congrats to two of Marlborough’s
grape marc to add to compost; extensive
a Face off!”
wineries, who came out winners in
insulation and heat recovery in the
There’ll be prizes (yet to be announced)
this year’s awards. They are Fromm
winery; use of rail transport rather than
and serious kudos up for grabs, not to
Winery that won the Winegrowing and
trucks; bottling some wine into stylish
mention exposure,camaraderie, fun and
Horticulture Award, sponsored by
recycled plastic bottles. As Peter says in
plenty of healthy competition as winery
Treasury Wine Estates (Matua)
his recent biography: “I know that in the
crews attempt to outdo each other
The first vines at Fromm were planted
past I’ve done some bloody stupid things
with the daftest, funniest, most unusual
in 1992 in the European tradition –
to the environment but I’ve become a
harvest happenings.
close together and with frugal irrigation
convert to sustainability.”
To take part, upload photographic
to encourage intense flavours. That frugality with water has increased over time with vines weaned off water completely, saving 9.5 million litres of water per year and the power needed to pump it. Fromm’s 5.6 ha vineyard is certified organic and follows biodynamic principles, and their expertise is clear from the high standard of compost making, use of cover crops and understanding of soil structure. The judges were impressed by the good, simple ideas and integrated approach of the Fromm vineyard which felt like a healthy farm working with the environment to grow quality grapes. And taking out the Business Innovation Award, sponsored by Cuddon Engineering, was Yealands Estate Wine. Big ideas and bold initiatives at Yealands Estate Wine are saving energy throughout the operation, from the vineyard to the customer. This is the second time Yealands has entered the Awards and they are continuing to innovate to improve their sustainability. Some examples are: tractors run on biofuel; vineyard prunings
Calling All Quirky Vintage Photos New Zealand’s 2013 vintage is underway and knowing there’s a certain amount of frivolity involved (think shave-less faces and superhero mascots), Paddy and Heather Battersby of winejobsonline.com, thought they’d add a bit of fun. So for those about to undertake the long, hard slog of harvesting grapes and making wine... (AND for those supporting from the sidelines...) welcome to VinAntics. (TM) (Vintage Antics)! VinAntics is poised to share the things people get up to – be it lucky socks, dyed hair or even, God forbid, naked night time vigils – and share them with all and sundry. Heather Battersby said, “It seemed a good time to get everyone having fun together, from one end of the country to the other – mostly via Social Media. Winery and vineyard workers take their work seriously, but themselves not so seriously and VinAntics is a great way to
evidence (nothing dodgy or illegal) to the winejobsonline Facebook page - https:// www.facebook.com/winejobsonline (or email to mail@winejobsonline.com) All hard-case vintage photos welcome though there are three “official” sections: 1. Face Off Beard growing competition - each competitor to be photographed on first and last day of vintage and can upload progress pics along the way if they wish. 2. Mascot or Tradition From Barbie dolls to Superman and other characters what’s the best Mascot for 2013? And who’s got the quirkiest lucky charm or tradition? Same shorts worn all vintage? Rabbit’s tail in the pocket? (Hopefully something much more original!.) 3. Pic of the Crop Best overall photo from the 2013 vintage. Further details and small print available by visiting https://www.facebook.com/ winejobsonline .
share the lighter side of what goes on. Every year we hear of people who don’t
Disclaimer: The views and articles that are expressed and appear in Winepress are those entirely those of contributors and in no way reflect the policy of the Marlborough Winegrowers. Any advice given, implied or suggested should be considered on its merits, and no responsibility can be taken for problems arising from the use of such information.
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