Winepress - December 2013 by Winepress Magazine

WINEPRESS Issue No. 232 / December 2013

Tutus In Vines

Yield Thinning

Champion Winners

The Official Magazine of

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In this issue... Regulars

Features

3 4

6 27 29 30 31 32

Editorial

Now is the time of the year when growers and wine companies consider the need to thin fruit to achieve target yields for the upcoming harvest. There are a number of ways to thin and Mike Trought and Mark Allen explain the pros and cons of each.

Tasman Crop Met Report From the Board Generation Y-line Wine Unwound

Wine Happenings

All correspondence including advertising / associate memberships / change of address to: Wine Marlborough PO Box 511, Blenheim 7240 T: 03 577 9299, F: 03 577 9298 E: admin@wine-marlborough.co.nz www.wine-marlborough.co.nz

Printed by: Blenheim Print Ltd. T: 03 578 1322 WINEPRESS is printed with vegetable oil based inks on elemental chlorine free paper which is sourced 100% from well managed forrests and manufactured under ISO 14001 Environmental Management Systems.

p20

Creating Her Own Award Winning Label Jules Taylor Wines has achieved a major coup this year, taking out the Chardonnay Trophy at the IWSC, and also the New Zealand Producer of the Year title. Jules explains how she has come to this point in her career.

NZWine Export News

News From Home and Away

Target Yields for the Coming Harvest

Meet The Board – part 2 Last month we introduced you to five of the Wine Marlborough Board members. This month we give you an insight into the other five – why they stood, what they believe to be the challenges, and opportunities facing the local industry.

p22

Where are the Magnums? Wine writer and Champagne expert Tom Stevenson can’t understand why more local producers are not providing their sparkling wine in magnums. He believes there is a large market for them, especially amongst those who really appreciate bottle fermented wines.

p24

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

12/2013 WINEPRESS

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

Produced by:

From the Editor

Wine Marlborough Free to all levy paying members Associate Members: $77 +GST Editor: Tessa Nicholson 16 Bank Street Blenheim T: 021 709 571 E: tessa.nicholson@me.com If you wish to make contact with any member of the Wine Marlborough Board, the following are their email addresses. Clive Jones: cjones@nautilusestate.com James Jones: james@starborough.co.nz Blair Gibbs: blair@spyvalley.co.nz Ivan Sutherland: ivan@dogpoint.co.nz Ben Glover: ben@zephyrwine.com Ruud Maasdam: ruud@staetelandt.co.nz Guy Lissaman: glissaman@xtra.co.nz Laurin Gane: laurin.gane@xtra.co.nz

Time to say goodbye to 2013 Is it just me, or has 2013 been one of the speediest years ever? So much seems to have happened and been achieved, that it is hard to believe we are just days away from 2014. The year began with Pinot Noir 2013, which saw Marlborough being lauded by international guests, with many quick to comment on the stunning advancements made in this region. Vineyards became a marketable asset once again, with buyers queuing up. Wineries in particular began purchasing existing vineyards to shore up future supply. Vine nurseries came back from the brink as the demand for plants soared, particularly for Sauvignon Blanc. Near perfect flowering last December and January meant yields were well up on 2012, and vintage 2013 went off without a hitch, although the rain that occurred towards the end sent some wineries scurrying to get in the last of their fruit. Growers experienced an average 23% increase in the price paid for fruit – bolstering not only their profitability but also adding majorly to the local economy. Trophies galore came our way, and not just for Sauvignon Blanc. We saw trophies and Show Champions awarded to Marlborough Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sparkling, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Not bad for a region that planted its first modern day grapes just 40 years ago. Yes 2013 was the 40th anniversary of our wine industry. “Wines from here will become world famous”, was what Frank Yukich said back in 1973. His foresight means we should nick name him Nostradamus. Even the Government is showing interest in the wine industry – and not just via excise tax. More than $8 million will be spent on researching ‘Lifestyle Wines’ in an effort to produce the world’s best low alcohol and calorie wines. Sauvignon Blanc and many other white varieties produced in this area will benefit from that research. The quakes of July and August were a stark reminder that Marlborough sits right on the top of four major fault lines. Fair to say they shook everyone up. By November the region had experienced 5,333 shakes in total – thankfully most of those weren’t felt. Let’s hope it stays that way. So as another year passes and one more waits around the corner, I hope you all have a great festive season, surrounded by those you care about. I look forward to catching up in the New Year.

Simon Clark: simon@clarkestate.com Simon Bishell: s.bishell@slingshot.co.nz

TESSA NICHOLSON tessa.nicholson@me.com

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

12/2013 WINEPRESS

Table 3: Warmest seasonal

Table 1: Blenheim Weather Data – November 2013

November 2013

November 2013 November compared to LTA LTA

Period of LTA

November 2012

GDD’s for: Month - Max/Min¹ Month – Mean²

177.1 166.9

126% 118%

140.8 142.0

(1996-2012) (1996-2012)

117.2 123.9

Growing Degree Days Total Jul – Nov 13 – Max/Min Jul - Nov 13 – Mean

433.0 473.3

134% 126%

323.2 376.3

(1996-2012) (1996-2012)

306.5 360.7

Mean Maximum (°C) Mean Minimum (°C) Mean Temp (°C)

20.6 11.2 15.9

+0.8°C +1.9°C +1.3°C

19.8 9.3 14.6

(1986-2012) (1986-2012) (1986-2012)

0.4 less

0.41

temperatures on record for Blenheim 1932-2013 Highest Mean Highest Mean Temperatures (°C) Temperatures (°C) July - Nov Sept - Nov

2013 – 12.35

1988 – 14.43

1988 – 12.16

1972 – 14.30

19.8 7.8 13.8

2005 – 11.92

1989 – 14.07

1999 – 11.70

2013 – 13.97

2006 – 11.70

1973 – 13.83

(1986-2012)

1998 - 11.66

1999 – 13.80

0.0

(1986-2012)

1970 - 11.62

2006 – 13.77

Sunshine hours 217.2 91% Sunshine hours – lowest Sunshine hours – highest Sunshine hours total – 2013 2196 99%

239 158.9 322.5 2209

(1930-2012) 1985 1997 (1930-2012)

266.9

2010 - 11.58

2001 – 13.73

1989 – 11.58

1970 – 13.52

2001 – 11.54

1961 - 13.50

Rainfall (mm) 48.8 104% Rainfall (mm) – lowest Rainfall (mm) – highest Rainfall total (mm) – 2013 683.3 114%

48 4.6 154.6 595

(1930-2012) 1930 1999 (1930-2012)

554.6

Evapotranspiration – mm

109.7

90%

121.8

(1996-2012)

116.6

Avg. Daily Windrun (km)

231.3

75%

307.2

(1996-2012)

230.1

Mean soil temp – 10cm

15.7

+0.8°C

14.9

(1986-2012)

15.3

Mean soil temp – 30cm

17.4

+0.9°C

16.5

(1986-2012)

17.4

Grass Frosts (<= -1.0°C)

Air Frosts

(0.0°C)

Same

2186.9 7.0

¹GDD’s Max/Min are calculated from absolute daily maximum and minimum temperatures ²GDD’s Mean are calculated from average hourly temperatures November 2013 was very warm, (the

The main factor contributing to the warm

warmest November since 1984), overcast

mean temperature in November were the

with low sunshine, average rainfall and

overnight minimum temperatures that

very calm.

were well above average from the 5th November onwards. The daily maximums

Air Temperature The mean temperature of 15.9°C was 1.3°C above the long-term average temperature for November. The mean temperature for the first week of November was only 14.1°C (Table 2), 0.5°C below average. The second week of the month was slightly above average. From 16 November onwards the days were generally well above average, apart from a three day cold snap from 26-28th.

were not as consistently above average as the daily minimums. November 2013 was quite overcast with low sunshine hours. Overcast cloudy nights mean that the night time temperature stays much warmer than under clear cloudless skies. November 2013 was the warmest since November 1984, and it became the fifth warmest November on record for Blenheim for the 82 year period 19322013.

Table 2: Summary of weekly temperatures for November 2013 November

Mean Maximum (°C) (LTA=19.8)

Mean Minimum (°C) (LTA=9.4)

Mean (°C) (LTA=14.6)

1st

– 7th

19.2

-0.6

9.0

-0.4

14.1

-0.5

8th

– 14th

19.2

-0.6

10.7

+1.3

15.0

+0.4

15t h – 21st

23.1

+3.3

11.5

+2.1

17.3

+1.7

22nd – 28th

19.9

+0.1

13.2

+3.8

16.5

+1.9

29th – 30th

23.7

+3.9

12.8

+3.4

18.3

+3.7

Month Mean

20.6

+0.8

11.2

+1.8

15.9

+1.3

12/2013 WINEPRESS

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

Table 3 indicates that the five months July to November 2013 are the warmest on record for the 82 years 1932 – 2013. However, as we normally consider September to be the first month of the growing season for grapes in Marlborough I have also included the warmest mean temperatures on record for those three months. 2013 is fourth warmest for Sep-Nov. Those readers who have been in the wine industry since the 1980s will remember the 1988/1989 and 1989/1990 seasons as being very hot. In the 23 years since then Marlborough has not experienced such a hot growing season. The start of the 2013/2014 season is currently the closest, but there is a lot of the current season left to run. Growing Degree Days and flowering of grapes in 2013 In line with the warm temperatures as detailed in Table 3, the growing degreeday line for the current season (Red line) in Figure 1 has been progressing steadily upwards for a large part of October and November 2013. At the end of November the GDD line is the most advanced of any year since 1989 (data not shown in Figure 1 for the late 1980s as the GDD lines are from hourly data recorded automatically and it is difficult to compare these with manually recorded data from the 1980s). NIWA are predicting that temperatures in Marlborough from November 2013 to January 2014 are likely to be average to above average. Flowering of Sauvignon

blanc at one of our monitored blocks in central Rapaura began on 22 November 2013, 12 days ahead of the starting date of 4 December 2012. The starting date for flowering in 2013 is very much on a par with 2006; both years are the earliest of any of the last 10 years. However, in 2006 capfall was drawn out over four weeks. Average temperature in December 2006 was 14.6°C, 2.1° below the long-term average. Flowering in 2005 started a couple of days later than in 2013. Temperatures were very warm over flowering in 2005 and capfall went from 0 to 100% in about 10 days. Average temperature in December 2005 was 18.6°C, 1.9°C above the long-term average. Remember that the 2006 harvest (2005 flowering) was very early – mid March for the Sauvignon blanc at Squire Estate in Rapaura. As I am writing this article on Monday 2 December the daily maximum temperatures for this week are predicted to be in the mid 20s. A large proportion of the Sauvignon blanc crop in Marlborough will be in flower this week, which should mean that capfall proceeds quite fast. If this eventuates then flowering in 2013 should be completed by the end of the second week in December at a very similar time to December 2005. An early flowering generally gives rise to an early harvest so it currently appears as if harvest 2014 will be early. The caveat on that statement would be that if warm temperatures over flowering give rise to above average fruit set, and no fruit thinning takes place, then high

crop loads will slow down the ripening progress and delay maturity. Sunshine Blenheim recorded 217.2 hours sunshine in November 2013 or 91% of average. The top of the South Island recorded considerably less sunshine in November than other regions such as Whakatane, New Plymouth and Tekapo. Forget any chance of Blenheim regaining the title of sunniest town in New Zealand in 2013. At the end of November, Whakatane was 326 hours ahead of Blenheim and miles ahead of any other town in New Zealand. Rainfall 48.8 mm of rain in November was almost identical to the long-term average. Of the month’s total, 35.2 mm, or 72% was recorded in the four days from the 25th to 28th November. The rainfall total for the 11 months January to November 2013 was 683.3 mm, or 114% of the long-term average of 600 mm for that period. The 11 months January to November 2012 recorded only 554.6 mm and total rainfall for January to December 2012 was 580 mm. In 2013 580 mm was recorded in the nine months January to September. Soil moisture Shallow soil moisture (5-35 cm depth) at the Grovetown Park weather station on 1 November 2013 was 31%. The period from 8-24 November was very dry, with only 6.2 mm rain received on 18 November. As a consequence the soil moisture fell rapidly from 31% to 19.6%. This is fairly typical of November. As

Figure 1: Growing degree days for Blenheim: days ahead (+) or behind (-) average; calculated from average hourly temperature data and long term average 1996-2012 The graph shows the cumulative GDD difference between the season and the long term average total

previously detailed 35.4 mm rain was received from 25 to 28 November. This boosted the shallow soil moisture back up to 30%. This recharge of moisture in the topsoil will soon be lost without further substantial rainfall in early December. The only way that shallow soil moisture is ever maintained at around 30% over summer (Dec – Feb) is if rainfall is about three times the long-term average. This is because average evapotranspiration over summer is 399 mm, whereas average rainfall is only 145 mm (A factor of 2.75 mm evapotranspiration:1 mm rainfall). Wind Run Average daily wind-run during November 2013 was 231.3 km; this is only 75% of the long-term average wind-run for November of 307.2 km. There were only three days during November when total wind-run exceeded 307 km. The fact that the final two days of November (29/30) were both very windy, with 490 and 424 km wind-run respectively, would probably have left some people thinking that November as a whole was windy. 29 November was the windiest day of the month with 490 km wind-run and a maximum wind speed of 79.8 km/hr. It is my impression that in general people remember windy days whereas we don’t remember all the calm days in between that greatly outnumber the windy days. The other factor that may mislead people into thinking that November was windier than normal was that there were a number of days with relatively low wind-run on which periods of a few hours were quite windy, e.g. 7 November recorded only 259 km wind-run; however the maximum wind speed that day was 58 km/hr. There were seven days during November that recorded quite strong maximum wind gusts above 40 km/hr. However on those seven days the total daily wind-run was lower than average i.e. the windy part of the day made up only a small proportion of the whole day. Rob Agnew

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12/2013 WINEPRESS

From The Board Outgoing Chair Dominic Pecchenino’s Report to the AGM Marlborough Winegrowers has had a successful year and returned a sound financial result, despite facing the same revenue challenges that many of you have faced in your own business. As you may know, our primary source of funding is via the levy marketing order from grape growers and wine makers, and vintage variations effect returns to Marlborough. The smaller 2012 vintage reduced funding to the association by 17%. I am pleased to say that with the skilled management of our staff under General Manager, Marcus Pickens and the input and governance of our finance committee members, who met 11 times in the past year in addition to their board meeting schedule, enabled the combined entity, which includes Wine Marlborough Limited, to return a positive financial result. This was no easy feat and should not be underestimated. There have been many highlights throughout the year, and I would like to touch on some of these in more depth. Marlborough Winegrowers Strategic review At the last AGM, the work that the association had completed was presented to the membership and published in Winepress as a means to get the strategy out to the wider industry members. It has been satisfying to see that the reorganisation of the committees has been successfully implemented and that they are up and running, producing results, and spreading the workload amongst the board and staff. The committee structure, as a recap is;

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• Governance and Finance – Chair, Guy Lissaman • Communication – Chair, Laurin Gane • Marketing – Chair, Ruud Maasdam • Advocacy – Chair, Blair Gibbs The findings and output from the review challenged the organisation and led to the creation of a new job description to replace our Marketing Executive, Kate Cameron who departed from Wine Marlborough in December 2012. The new position, Marketing and Communications Coordinator, was offered to Emily Hope who joined the organisation in February. Wine Marlborough now tweet’s, has a Facebook presence and circulates industry news in a revamped e-newsletter as well as any other organisation. Add to that the more active role the committee plays in assisting the Winepress Editor, Tessa Nicholson. Seasonal Labour The labour area is by no means the most glamorous part of the organisation, but it is one of our fundamental areas. We are an industry dominated, at least in the vineyards, by contract labour. This model works sufficiently well, but our members need to keep a close eye on their properties as the ultimate liability and responsibility rests with the owners and managers. Our office and board representatives Clive Jones and myself have been very active in this area, which included working with relevant government departments to ensure the RSE labour numbers are granted to the region each year.

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

Events This year was a busy one with many major events. We added a valuable resource with the appointment of our new Events Manager, Meredith Elley. This role is a full time position with many challenges and opportunities. A few events stand out among the others. Pinot Noir 2013 had a strong regional approach, where Wine Marlborough was a representative on the regional working group and also on the Marlborough theming group which created a stunning look and feel at the conference. Wine Marlborough also managed a user pays exercise to bring in key people to the region prior to the conference. Three visitors were here including the entertaining and proud Sauvignon Blanc supporter, Oz Clarke who warned us never to lower our standards and produce cheap, flavourless wines. Wine Marlborough also made a generic video for the event entitled ‘Marlborough Pinot Noir’. The effort that went into Pinot Noir 2013 was highly regarded and Marlborough was the significant performer at the event. The Marlborough Wine & Food Festival Food Festival undertook some changes to its look, feel and branding for the 2013 event with great success. Many attendees said the event was the best ever, so the pressure is on for the 30th anniversary which culminates on February 8, 2014. This year the focus of the Wine and Food festival is on showcasing Marlborough’s wines while

still offering a safe and fun experience. Recently completed was the biennial Marlborough Wine Weekend resulting in very positive feedback about the region. Wine Marlborough also held the first Harvest Open Day in February, in association with New Zealand Police. This inaugural effort will occur again to assist our members with the legal requirements regarding the set-up of harvesters, gondolas, trucks and tractors for the critical vintage time. John Avery – NZ – UK Link – Wine Marlborough Scholarship This is a biennial scholarship set up by Wine Marlborough that brings someone from the UK to Marlborough. The latest recipient was Kathryn (Kat) Wiggins from Lay & Wheeler a fine wine merchant in

Essex. Kat spent three weeks in New Zealand in November 2012, mostly in Marlborough learning about the region and visiting a wide variety of stakeholders. Kat did a wonderful job promoting Marlborough wine via her frequent tweets, blog page and a New Zealand wine promotion. We know we have one of the most compelling wine regions around; it may come as no surprise to hear that Kat has just arrived back in Marlborough with a full time role with one of our wineries. Funding for the scholarship is from a rebate programme run in conjunction with office supplies company Office Max supported by a number of our members. The Marlborough Young Viticulturist and National Young Viticulturist events go from strength to strength with the future

leaders of our viticulture sector gaining significantly from the exercise. It is time we as an industry seriously investigated getting an equivalent competition running for our young winemakers, as seeing younger industry people put their skills and knowledge to the test in an effort to move ahead is inspiring and rewarding. Finally, after many years of service to Marlborough Winegrowers, the time for me to stand aside has arrived. At this time I would like to thank all the committee members present and past, I have enjoyed my time representing this vibrant industry. I will still be an active participant in the industry and hope I have in some way helped contribute to a successful future.

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

12/2013 WINEPRESS

Targeting Yields For The Coming Harvest MARK ALLEN¹ AND MIKE TROUGHT²

The New Zealand Winegrowers and Ministry of Primary Industry Sustainable Farming Fund Mechanical thinning programme is now in its final year and this article updates seasonal information for the coming harvest. Now is the time of the year when growers

By mid-November, bunch

and wine companies consider the need

counts will have been

to thin fruit to achieve target yields for the

undertaken on most

upcoming harvest.

vineyards. While this is

It is important that yields are optimised

a tedious task, accurate

for a number of reasons:

numbers are important

1. Excessively high yields can be

(inaccurate numbers are

difficult to ripen within the harvest

probably worse than no

timeframe. Later harvests are

numbers at all!). Stephen

at greater risk to autumn frosts.

Bradley has developed a

Thinning fruit will generally result in

protocol that he now uses for

earlier ripening.

undertaking bunch counts:

2. Many wine companies have

• A 60-cm long measuring

maximum per hectare or total

cane is used to identify

yields in their contracts and

segments of the canopy

growers may be penalised if they

in which all bunches

produce excessive quantities.

are counted (both top and bottom

This reflects the availability of

canes). Stephen uses a cane,

post in the bay; count all the

processing capacity and market

held in place with one hand while

bunches within that segment

size. Excessive volumes tend to

counting. Other more sophisticated

(upper and lower fruiting wires

affect grape prices adversely and

systems, with hooks that can be

send the wrong quality signals to

attached to foliage wires, have been

our consumers.

60 cm crop estimation method

developed.

3. Unexpectedly low yields can result

• Seven segments are counted along

on the length of the row) and from that post on the adjacent row step

two adjacent rows (three on one side

in 1 metre, place the measuring

opening up opportunities to our

and four on the second).

cane in the canopy and count the

• It is important that the segments

¹Allen Vineyard Advisory, Ph 03 5795060, Mb 021 431 456, email markallen@ihug.co.nz ²The New Zealand Institute for Plant & Food Research Limited, Marlborough Wine Research Centre, PO Box 845, Blenheim. Mb 021 226 8313, email mike.trought@plantandfood.co.nz

where appropriate) b) Move on 4 to 6 posts (depending

in insufficient supply to the market, competitors to fill the shelf space.

represent the canopy, so: a) The first 60 cm is from the first

12/2013 WINEPRESS

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

bunches in that segment c) Move on the same number of posts as before, return to the first

row and from that post step in 2

56 samples), depending on the

maximum of 20-30 inflorescences).

metres, place the cane in and

uniformity and size of the vineyard

Telephone interruptions are less

count bunches in that segment

f) It is important that a rigorous protocol is followed; i.e. decide

d). Repeat the process seven times down the row e) This whole process needs to be repeated seven or eight times across the vineyard (giving 49 to Seasonal changes in average grapevine yield components by variety Table 1: Average bunch weight Average bunch weight (g) Vintage Sauvignon Chardonnay Pinot Noir Blanc 2002 135.92 105.55 2003 96.81 71.41 88.87 2004 134.05 100.15 124.87 2005 94.84 86.02 61.91 2006 133.54 81.79 88.37 2007 96.90 90.62 74.79 2008 162.78 124.99 118.98 2009 150.61 119.23 100.75 Mean 125.7 97.5 94.1 Table 2: Average berry weight Average berry weight (g) Vintage Sauvignon Chardonnay Pinot Noir Blanc 2002 1.83 1.30 2003 1.85 1.28 1.28 2004 1.91 1.42 1.47 2005 1.79 1.06 0.94 2006 1.92 1.45 1.39 2007 1.91 1.10 0.98 2008 2.08 1.64 1.54 2009 1.89 1.38 1.29 Mean 1.90 1.27 1.33 Table 3: Average berry number per bunch Berries per bunch Year Sauvignon Chardonnay Pinot Noir Blanc 2002 73.1 80.4 n/a 2003 49.9 56.9 68.7 2004 70.9 70.8 85.2 2005 54.2 80.5 70.7 2006 69.8 57.3 64.3 2007 49.1 82.6 75.9 2008 73.2 76.1 78.6 2009 77.5 86.6 75.2 Mean 64.7 74.1 73.9

likely! • It is possible to assess any

before starting how many posts

systematic changes across the

you will move on. If the segment

vineyard by looking at the average of

coincides with a missing vine/

each transect. Note: any changes in

cane, then a 0 value is included.

rootstock, clone and so on potentially

• Note: seven samples, 60 cm long,

have to be assessed separately.

equals 4.2 m. By counting short

It should also be noted that if shoot

distances, numbers are easily

thinning/bunch thinning is undertaken

retained (probably counting a

after the initial measurement, then a re-

Machine thinning Pinot Gris – removes enough leaf to negate need for mechanical leaf pluck

Machine thinning Sauvignon Blanc

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

12/2013 WINEPRESS

berry number is consistent, as seedless berries will be retained and small, resulting in typical “hen and chickens”. Pre- and post-fruit set thinning options have different advantages and disadvantages. In general, earlier thinning options are probably less expensive, but have greater risk in reducing yields excessively if flowering time is cold. Earlier thinning will generally result in earlier ripening and harvest. Thinned fruit dumped from harvester during machine thinning count may be needed.

Winegrowers NZW08-212.)

Having obtained a rigorous per vine

Much of the seasonal difference in bunch

bunch count, the value is multiplied by

weight can be attributed to temperatures

the number of vines per hectare and

during and shortly after flowering, when

an estimate of bunch weight to give the

initial berry growth is occurring.

yield per hectare. The bunch weight

It is interesting to note that Sauvignon

will depend on variety and location.

Blanc berry weight changes little

Data collected from the 2001 to 2009

between seasons (the bunch weight is

harvests produced average Sauvignon

largely determined by berry number per

Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir bunch

bunch). In general, Sauvignon blanc

weights (Tables 1-3). (For more details

bunches have few “chickens” or seedless

see Trought M. 2010. Predicting Regional

berries. In contrast, Pinot Noir and

and Sub-Regional grapevine yields in

Chardonnay berry weights can be quite

Marlborough. A report for New Zealand

different between seasons, but in general

Mechanical Thinning Fact Sheet: http:// www.nzwine.com/research/fact-sheets-1/ vineyard-1/ Acknowledgements: This project was made possible from funding from New Zealand Winegrowers and the Ministry for Primary Industries, Sustainable Farming Fund. We acknowledge the discussions with a number of Marlborough viticulturists, Damian Martin and Rob Agnew in the development of this article as well as Plant & Food Research Ltd core grape and wine programme.

Figure 1. Relationship between the average Growing Degree Days (GDD) from December 30 to January 31 and average Sauvignon Blanc bunch weights, and average GDD from December 22 to January 22 and average Pinot Noir bunch weights over eight growing seasons, respectively.

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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

Thinning options Advantage

Disadvantage

Take out doubles on the cordon

• Removing less fruitful secondary shoots • Opens the canopy, allowing better spray penetration

• Thinning pre-flowering may result in an increase in fruit set of the remaining inflorescences and an increase in berry weight, resulting in compact bunches and increased botrytis risk

Head shoot thin

• Removing less fruitful head shoots • Opens up the congested part of the canopy • Increases exposure on shoots that are likely to be canes in the following season and enhances potential fruitfulness • Reasonably quick and inexpensive • It sets the vine up for pruning, by removing unwanted shoots • Removes unwanted buds that can be a problem in future years, producing a “hedgehog” head

• A cold snap over flowering may lead to poor fruit set, lower than expected bunch weights and reduced yield • Needs close supervision of vineyard gangs

Collard leaf blow Cost $250/hour or $350/ha or 0.15c/ vine

Undertaken at 5-80% flowering to cause flower abortion

• Inexpensive • Potentially removes trash from bunches, reducing botrytis inoculum source (note this is currently being researched and data will become available)

• Hard to measure the effect

Cost $230/ha or 0.10c/vine

Leaf plucking pre-flowering will reduce the photosynthetic area of the vine. Fruit set strongly depends on the available carbohydrates at the time of flowering.

• Could be undertaken mechanically • Reduced bunch compactness • More open canopy in the fruiting zone

• Hard to assess the degree of leaf removal required to achieve the target reduction • Potential reduction in the fruitfulness for next season of buds on the developing shoots

Ethylene sprays

Ethylene (Ethrel tm) applications applied late flowering are reported to cause flower abortion and lower bunch weight

• Inexpensive and rapid

• Currently restricted to research • Timing and rates have to be determined

Post fruit-set

Deficit irrigation

• Mild water stress post fruit set will reduce berry weights

• Difficult to manage, rainfall often interrupts the process

Bunch thinning Cost $444/ha for 10 bunches or up to $900/ha for 20 bunches Average cost = 0.24c/vine

Pre-véraison

• Fruit set has occurred and potential bunch/yield estimates are more reliable and accurate • The degree of removal can be adjusted for different parts of the vineyard • Quite cost effective 0.01 – 0.02 cents per bunch

• Needs careful supervision • Staff may not be available if the whole Marlborough vineyard area has to be done

Can cost up to $800/ ha or 0.36c/vine

Post-véraison

• Enables “clumped” bunches to be thinned and spaced, giving better disease management • Removal of diseased fruit

• Expensive • Little advantage in terms of fruit composition • Staff may not be available and it requires careful supervision

Cane cutting Cost approx. 0.10c/ vine or $222/ha

Cutting a cane post fruit set

• The cane and shoots are left in the canopy and will • Inexpensive and rapid generally have shrivelled and died by harvest; however, • May cut one cane to reduce potential yield by 25 or 33% for four they may act as a potential botrytis inoculum source in and three cane-pruned vines respectively a wet season

Mechanical thinning Cost at $120/km or $480/ha or 0.21c/ vine

Post-fruit set

• Potential yield is set and can be reliably estimated • Cost effective • Proven protocols have been developed over the past five years • Machines can be easily adapted to remove fruit • Contractors will have machines available • Changes bunch architecture (more open bunches, less trash and potential reduction of late-season botrytis) • Further advice is available from consultants e.g. Mark Allen • Further information is available from the NZ Winegrowers “Fact Sheet” • One harvester can do approx. 1 ha/hour with one operator

Thinning method Pre-fruit set Shoot thinning Cost = approx. 0.20c/ vine or $440/ha

Cost = approx. 0.05 - 0.10c/vine or $220/ha

• May be demands for other vineyard operations (particularly where the “harvester” is used for spraying etc) • Difficult to remove > 25% of the crop

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

12/2013 WINEPRESS

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12/2013 WINEPRESS

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

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Setting Up Her Own Label TESSA NICHOLSON

Jules Taylor has a lot to thank her former bosses for – not the least, giving her the opportunity to create her own label. Working for Marlborough Valley Cellars, a

“They actually wanted me to see how

were right. Winemaking is only a tiny

small contract facility at Riverlands in the

it was all done, to set up a label. They

segment within the process of owning a

early 2000s, her bosses told Jules she

funded this company until George

wine label.

needed to expand her knowledge base.

(husband) and I purchased all the stock

“It’s not really rocket science.”

“They said all you know is how to make

in 2006,” she says.

While some areas were harder than

wine. You have no idea about the whole

Jules is incredibly grateful for that

others to come to terms with, it was the

process, what’s involved with sourcing

opportunity, as without it, she might

creation of a name for the company that

fruit, deciding when to pick, getting

not be celebrating the success of a

proved the most difficult. Ironic really,

packaging sorted, getting bottles to

company that has recently won a major

when you consider what the end result

turn up to the bottling company when

international trophy and been announced

was – her own name.

you need them or how to take a wine to

as the New Zealand Winery of the Year

“It took a year and a half to come up with

market.”

at the UK International Wine and Spirits

my own name basically,” she admits with

While that might seem an incredibly

Competition.

a smile. “It is worse than naming a chid.

harsh statement to make, it was said with

Since 2001 she has worked on all the

We tossed a few things around and in the

the best possible intentions.

areas highlighted, and admits her bosses

end it was too hard.” So Jules Taylor Wines it became. Initially she was producing only Riesling and Pinot Gris – and there was a good reason for that, or so she thought at the time. “In the beginning I didn’t know whether we would ever be able to sell it, or if we would have to drink it all ourselves. So I made Riesling, because I love drinking it. And Pinot Gris because back then it was new on the scene in New Zealand. I wanted to make one with a bit more texture and interest on the mid palate. We hand picked that whole vintage, whole clusters pressed into old barrels for wild ferment with full malo. So it was quite different.” The Riesling though was declared too dry for immediate release, by her peers. “I remember Simon (Waghorn) and Kim

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

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(Crawford) telling me I’d never be able to sell it. ‘People won’t like it until its three years old,’ they said. Well I did sell it, but that wine certainly did improve over time. It made friends with itself

The Winning Chardonnay The Jules Taylor 2012 Marlborough Chardonnay was a blend

in the bottle.”

of three different parcels of fruit. A small parcel came from

Twelve years on, Jules is producing six varieties, with 70

the Dashwood, another small parcel was the first crop from

percent being Sauvignon Blanc, her favourite wine to make.

the Wrekin, while the majority of the fruit came from Anna and

“I just love it. It amazes me that you can take a berry and turn it

Jason Flowerday at Te Whare Ra Wines.

into something that is so vibrant, racy and expressive of where

“The Flowerday Chardonnay comes from rows that are

it is grown. There is nothing better. And when you taste them

orientated East to West, rather than North to South, so there

(Sauvignon berries) in the vineyard they are so expressive. I

is always one side of the vine that you can get very ripe. It

always think you shouldn’t need to use a lab prior to vintage,

has more of the tropical, melon kind of thing going on, with

you should be able to be out in the field and taste and know

white peach. Whereas on the other side it is more of the

when it is right to pick. It’s so obvious in the field.”

citrus end of the spectrum. The wine is a combination of

Although she does admit that since she began her own label

those two sides.

she has spent more than her fair share of time walking up and

“It can be a nightmare to pick and

down rows, and tasting thousands of berries. “It takes a lot of

sometimes in the past we have picked

berries in the belly I always say.”

one side of the row and gone back a

With no winery and no vineyards, Jules Taylor Wines is a virtual

week or so later to pick the other side.

company and that provides her as a winemaker with so much

“The fruit from the Wrekin was very

more choice. There is no capital tied up in land and vines or

exciting because it was the first crop

equipment. She can source fruit from a variety of locations,

and we had nice small berries with

which suits her style of blending perfectly.

some nice flavours. And again the

“We have about 14 contract growers and we work closely

Awatere gives another dimension.

with them. Our Sauvignon Blanc is a blend of eight different

“I have always been an advocate of

vineyards. This is a model that works for us. It also means we

blending multiple sites for wines. I

can try different things (varieties) without getting locked in for

think it gives you good contrast

the long term.”

and layers.”

Currently there is a Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Gruner Veltliner,

More focus is being given to

Chardonnay, Riesling and Rosé. Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling

Marlborough Chardonnay

and Sauvignon Blanc have all been recognised nationally and

in recent years, with many

internationally, but the latest award – the International Wine

of the guests undertaking

and Spirit Competition Mission Hill Trophy for best Chardonnay

tastings at Wine Marlborough

came as something of a shock.

commenting on the quality

“I don’t think we have ever had any accolade for our

emanating from this region.

Chardonnay, so when I was told that we had won the trophy,

However sourcing the fruit

I thought I was having my leg pulled. It was a huge shock – a

is now becoming a bit

good shock though.”

difficult. Only 10,000 tonnes

The second big shock came a few weeks after hearing about

of Chardonnay was produced

the Chardonnay trophy. Jules Taylor Wines has been declared

in Marlborough this year – a

the New Zealand Winery of the Year, by the IWSC judges.

massive 200,000 tonnes

“I was absolutely gobsmacked to find out about the win. I knew

less than Sauvignon Blanc.

we were shortlisted but I never thought we would win it.”

And not all of that is going

Both international acclamations are proof that she did

into table wine, with a fair

everything her bosses suggested back in 2001 – plus some.

percentage being ear marked for sparkling.

12/2013 WINEPRESS

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

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Names change. It’s what stays the same that counts. As a result of the recent CRT/Farmlands merger, Skeltons has been renamed Farmlands Horticulture. Rest assured, we’ll continue to deliver the very best advice, products and services to your horticulture business. As always, our team of highly qualified and knowledgeable Technical Advisers are wholly focused on helping you achieve optimum results.

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Even our number’s stayed the same. So call the Farmlands Horticulture team on 0800 327 652 to discuss your needs.

Horticulture The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

12/2013 WINEPRESS

Meet The Rest of the Board Last month we highlighted five of the 10 members of the Wine Marlborough Board. This month we take a closer look at the other five. BLAIR GIBBS Company/ Vineyard You Represent Spy Valley Title General Manager Why Did You Stand For The Board Of Wine Marlborough? To contribute to the industry, to try and make a positive difference, to learn and understand more about our region and industry. What Is The Greatest Challenge For The Marlborough Wine Industry? To have a cohesive and collaborative approach in a dynamic, diverse and large region. What Can The Board Do To Mitigate That Challenge? Communicate and disseminate relevant

12/2013 WINEPRESS

information. Develop and support events, programmes and marketing initiatives which facilitate members growth and profitability. What Is The Biggest Opportunity For The Marlborough Wine Industry? To lead the New Zealand industry through excellence. To be inclusive. How Can The Board Help To Make The Most Of That Opportunity? Through a professional and robust approach that encourages the inclusion of all members. Through quality decision making. What Are Your Interests Outside Of Work? Play, once the chores are done. What Is Your Favourite Thing About Marlborough? Cook Strait What Is Your Favourite Wine? Bit of a lush really, quite like the lot…in moderation of course.

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

SIMON CLARK Company/Vineyard You Represent Clark Estate Title Winemaker/Chief vineyard labourer Why Did You Stand For The Board Of Wine Marlborough? I felt it important to represent the younger generation coming through with the changing face of the wine industry. As is the nature of needing to be voted onto the board, not many young people stand. What Is The Greatest Challenge For The Marlborough Wine Industry? Protecting Brand Marlborough. Over the last 30 years there has been a lot of great work done by great people to make what the Marlborough wine industry is today. Unfortunately with success

comes greed, and we have to be careful not to dissolve all the hard work done up to now. We have to carry on this success and improve our wines through research and development, through working together and above all being proud of who we are and what we do. What Can The Board Do To Mitigate That Challenge? We can give the Marlborough industry the opportunities to keep up with the latest research through seminars and workshops. We can help promote and champion the young talent in Marlborough. We can work closely with the council to help streamline and mitigate potential problems to keep the industry running smoothly. We can bring in certain influential wine critics and show the best of what Marlborough has to offer. We can support events such as the Marlborough Wine Show, where the different sub regions of Marlborough are starting to be showcased giving Marlborough a broader and more sustainable future. What Is The Biggest Opportunity For The Marlborough Wine Industry? Being the world’s leading Sauvignon Blanc wine region. We grow a unique style of Sauvignon Blanc that is admired around the globe and we need to take ownership of that fact. When Sauvignon Blanc is mentioned in a foreign country, New Zealand and Marlborough need to be the first words that are associated with that grape variety. How Can The Board Help To Make The Most Of That Opportunity? The board can help to bring major Sauvignon Blanc conferences to Marlborough, we can work with NZ Wine to make sure these events become a permanent fixture here in Marlborough. We will continue to promote and improve events such as the Marlborough Wine Festival, the Young Viticulturist Competition and make sure the latest research is available so we be the

leaders of Sauvignon Blanc now and into the future. What Are Your Interests Outside Of Work? My two boys, Adam (5) and Charlie (nearly 3) keep me very busy but are a great excuse to be a kid again! I enjoy cooking, playing guitar, various sports including tennis, golf and recently cricket. What Is Your Favourite Thing About Marlborough? The diverse range of activities available. Within one hour in any direction of the centre of Blenheim you can find such amazingly different landscapes from the rough coastline of Kaikoura, to the bush walks at Pelorus, fishing in the beautiful Marlborough Sounds, through to the mountain ranges and ski fields of the Rainbow Ranges. What Is Your Favourite Wine? Riesling…I mean Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc!! BEN GLOVER Company You Represent? New Zealand Vineyard Estates - Mud House and Waipara Hills Brands. Title Group Winemaker. Also winemaker - Family wine business Glover Family Vineyards - Zephyr Wine. Why Did You Stand For the Board of Wine Marlborough? To make a difference and give something back to a dynamic youthful industry that has benefitted and changed the Marlborough region. Having been born and raised in Marlborough, growing up in the farming community I have watched it grow and gain the respect and an enviable reputation globally. I wanted to continue to promote and support our region and Brand Marlborough is the key to success What Is The Greatest Challenge For the

Marlborough Wine Industry? With the PWC report the challenge now is to provide our levy payers the service through governance while through the Wine Marlborough arm, seeking to promote the province and it’s wines through a dynamic user pays platform. Regional apathy is a constant challenge - (need more people to stand for these positions/roles - even turn up to an AGM!) We need positive and youthful input to these bodies, and constant board member changes to ensure we remain fresh. Maintaining supply constraints tension. How Can We Mitigate That Challenge? The advent of Winemakers Association Marlborough (WAM) and its enthusiasm will provide good impetus to mitigate this and we have a strong talented pool base to ensure Marlborough the region and the brand owners remain strong within the New Zealand Industry. Thinking medium term in respect of profitability - patience. What Is the Greatest Opportunity For The Marlborough Wine Industry? Own and support your own brand Brand Marlborough. It is such a powerful global brand. By doing this it will drive profitability for all tiers of the chain. We live in such a versatile region. Creating a depth of story telling and maintaining interest in the region. How Can The Board Make The Most Of That? Keep proactive communications open across multiple forums within the industry. Support WAM - and their importance within the region. Support smaller focused groups that are telling their story. What Are Your Interests Outside of Work? Family, Zephyr Mk3 1965 vehicle, Tennis, Marlborough Sounds, Skiing, Ultra marathons, Mahjong. What Is Your Favourite Thing About Marlborough? People, dynamic people, still a rural

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town, small, with great natural assets – Marlborough Sounds through to (Nelson) lakes. 1hr from anywhere! What Is your Favourite Wine? It needs to be well understood, nursed and expressive of place - it also needs to quietly reward food and conversation. RUUD MAASDAM Company/ Vineyard You Represent Staete Landt Vineyard Title Co-Owner / CoWinemaker Why did you stand for the Board of Wine Marlborough? To be a voice for the smaller owner/ operator wine companies (Category 1) of Marlborough and to continue to be a Marlborough delegate to the NZWG marketing committee to help shape the New Zealand wine marketing message. What Is The Greatest Challenge For The Marlborough Wine Industry? 1. Profitability for all participants in the Marlborough wine industry has been under pressure since 2008. Most pressure has been and still remains on the smaller growers and winemakers. Further pressure by exchange rate issues and relatively recent domestic (GST, excise) tax increases. 2. Create worldwide understanding for Marlborough’s varietal diversity towards Pinot Noir and other whites other than Sauvignon Blanc What Can The Board Do To Mitigate That Challenge? Focus on events and other activities, which underline the inclusiveness of all types of companies in Marlborough. Also bring out more and more buyers and wine media to Marlborough to understand

12/2013 WINEPRESS

the absolutely unique lay of our land and our wines. What Is The Biggest Opportunity For The Marlborough Wine Industry? I think our challenges are also our opportunities. If we achieve structural profitability for all/most wine industry participants then that would mean we would have achieved a momentous task. We will most likely only get there by telling the world about our whole wine portfolio beyond but not without the allimportant Sauvignon Blanc. How Can The Board Help To Make The Most Of That Opportunity? Practice what we preach, walk the walk, lead by example. Be inclusive to other wine industry partners of all sizes, to other wine industry groups. Invite and show the buyers and wine media of the world the diversity of our place and our people. What Are Your Interests Outside Of Work? Jogging in the Waihopai hills with the whole family before the ritually huge weekend morning breakfasts; friends and my wife Dorien. What Is Your Favourite Thing About Marlborough? The sunrise and sunsets in Marlborough are shockingly beautiful. (Especially when driving between Rapaura Road and the Waihopai Valley at the right time of day) The Marlborough diversity in landscapes, the Marlborough climate and the Marlborough people. What Is Your Favourite Wine? Lately we’re experimenting with barrel aged Sauvignon Blanc, awesome drinking possibilities there. Marlborough Syrah... who would have thought that possible. In the end when I’m tired or even when I’m not... Chardonnay... slowly oak aged but not too oaked... funny how quickly a whole bottle disappears whilst preparing a meal….

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

GUY LISSAMAN Company/Vineyard You Represent Trelawne Farm Limited Title Managing Director Why Did You Stand For The Board Of Wine Marlborough? To be an advocate for Marlborough Grape growers and the Awatere subregion. What Is The Greatest Challenge For The Marlborough Wine Industry? Ensuring the Regulatory frameworks supports the “right to farm” with industry having appropriate access to resources including water and labour to meet the long term growth needs for both vineyards and processing wineries. What Can The Board Do To Mitigate That Challenge? Continue with a strong focus on Advocacy and representation on Resource Management issues. What Is The Biggest Opportunity For The Marlborough Wine Industry? Marlborough to be recognised as a leading wine growing region in the world. How Can The Board Help To Make The Most Of That Opportunity? Support the Industry to focus on quality and what makes Marlborough unique. What Are Your Interests Outside Of Work? Spending time with family and friends. Enjoying time in the Marlborough Sounds and mountain biking to keep fit. What Is Your Favourite Thing About Marlborough? The diversity of land, climate and people What Is Your Favourite Wine? Pinot Noir.

Wines Across the Water It has become a tradition to sail our new release Sauvignon Blancs across Cook Strait, and this year there was a nice touch of history involved. The Wineworks Marlborough Sauvignon

day plantings of vines took place. It is

Handicapp honours went to Imp Zap

Blanc Yacht race saw 24 yachts, dozens

also exactly 140 years, since the first

– skippered by Robb Grigg – carrying

of sailors and most importantly 29 of this

vineyard was established in Marlborough

Torea Suavignon Blanc

year’s vintage wines, arrive in Wellington

at Auntsfield back in 1873.

2nd: Khamsin – skippered by Dave

in true style. The annual race begins

So it was appropriate that the yacht

Kelway, carrying Ara Sauvignon Blanc

just outside Tory Channel, and ends in

to cross the line first, The Guarantee,

3: Oldsmobile – skippered by Aaron

Wellington harbour. Each yacht carries

was not only carrying the Auntsfield

Blackmore carrying Villa Maria

at least one of the wines, which are then

Sauvignon Blanc, along with Lake

4th: Sirrah – skippered by Gill Painter

released to consumers and trade at a

Chalice, but that it was skippered by the

and carrying Sileni Sauvignon Blanc

specially arranged event within the city.

great grandson of wine industry pioneer,

The tasting held later in the day was a

This year that tasting was held at Martin

David Herd, who planted those first

sell out well in advance of the event, and

Bosley’s accompanied by the chef’s

grapes 140 years ago.

was the perfect end to what had been a

classic canapés.

It was a special moment for skipper Geoff

stunning day for racing.

2013 is a special year for Marlborough. It

Herd, who is also the Commodore of the

is exactly 40 years since the first modern

Royal Port Nicholson Yacht Club.

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

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12/2013 WINEPRESS

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

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Foliar Nutrients TESSA NICHOLSON

While the majority of nutrients reach the vines through the root system, there could still be a need for foliar nutrition. Just what foliar nutrition should be and

determined is vitally important.

when it should be applied was the

Finally you need to consider all aspects

subject of a recent workshop organised

of your vineyard. What is the rootstock,

by Organic Winegrowers of New Zealand.

what is the age of the vines, what’s the

Pernod Ricard Winemaker’s Andrew

crop load in relation to the vine age and

Naylor explained that before considering

what is the soil moisture level?

foliar nutrition, you first need to examine

In terms of when to consider using foliar

every avenue of soil nutrition and water

feeds, Andrew said it was most important

availability. Soil tests need to be done,

when it came to micro nutrients.

and while there is a line of thought that

“You don’t need a whole lot of micro

sub soil tests should be done on a

nutrients to make a difference. So if you

regular basis, Andrew said the vital time

are putting it on the soil, potentially you

for those is pre- establishing a vineyard.

are putting a lot on to establish a small

“You need to accept that you cannot

effect. Potentially it is better to be applied

really change the nutrient level in the sub

as a foliar application.

soil, it’s a long way down. But when you

“Think about what you are targeting

hit a dry season, any roots that are in the

nutrients for. By avoiding treating the

sub soil, where there might be moisture,

soil with those nutrients, it avoids the

are the ones that will feed the vine. So if

likelihood of loss through leaching.”

you have something going wrong in your

During times of stress, whether that be

sub soil, be aware that when it gets dry,

water, frost or temperature, nutrients are

that is what you will see in your vine.”

likely to be required. But foliar may not

Soil tests will show if anything is out of

be enough, Andrew said. You need to

balance, he said. Is there something that

consider macro nutrients as well, which

is higher than it should be, or conversely,

will mean hitting the soil as well.

lower? Is there anything in the soil that is likely to interact with something else and cause a deficiency or toxicity? “Give it some thought and determine if you can address it in the soil, or do you need to address it through foliar nutrition?” Leaf and petiole tests will also provide clues about what is happening within the vine. Keeping records, so trends can be

Andrew Naylor are available to the plant.” Veraison onwards – potassium. Post flowering – magnesium. “We put magnesium on as a standard practice on all our SO4, 5BD and 5C rootstock. Those rootstocks are widely accepted to show magnesium deficiency post flowering when the pressure comes on.” In terms of exactly what he would use, Andrew said he “would use good

When to apply foliar nutrients

numbers and big numbers.”

Pre flowering he suggested looking at

In terms of good numbers, he said the

boron, molybdenum and zinc.

grower has to ensure the results for the

“On our corporate vineyards boron is

nutrients are backed up by solid scientific

pretty standard as part of our 3rd or

research. When it comes to big numbers,

4th round spray. It is accepted that

he said if you are going to put something

Marlborough soils are generally pretty low

on, make sure it’s worth it and it isn’t

in boron.

going to be spread too thin to do any

“Soil pH plays a big part in whether these

good.

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Where are the Magnums? TESSA NICHOLSON

Wine writer and Champagne expert Tom Stevenson wants to know why Marlborough sparkling wine producers are not embracing magnums. Tom was one of a number of special

progress with the style of sparkling they

said, Glengarry stock a lot of sparklings

guests who attended last month’s biennial

are aiming for. What’s more he said, the

from Champagne to Cava, Prosecco to

Marlborough Wine Weekend. As one

market for magnums is growing, faster

New Zealand.

of four on a panel at the sparkling wine

than the market for bottled sparkling, in

“One of the growth drivers has been

tasting, he raised the issue of magnums,

Champagne at least.

the price as people have looked for an

saying they were an integral part of

“In Champagne the demand has

alternative to Champagne in the next

sparkling wine production.

increased in the last five years,

price down. New Zealand sparkling has

“It is an indication that the sparkling

something like 12 percent. That’s against

been well positioned in that bracket. I

wine industry in your area has matured.

a general decrease in global sales of a

think what has then happened is that

People who really appreciate bottle

few percent for bottled Champagne.”

they have experimented and tasted New

fermented sparkling wine will be looking

That was backed up by Liz Wheadon

Zealand sparkling and liked what they

at magnums because they know they are

from Glengarry.

found.”

fresher, with more finesse and they last

“Is there a retail demand for magnums?

But she said there is a lack of consumer

longer.”

Yes. There is not enough New Zealand

understanding about the differences

He said every sparkling producer in the

ones produced at the moment, for what

between price points. More and more she

world should produce magnums not

we could sell.”

said, people come into the store asking

only because consumers like them, but

While on the subject of consumers, Liz

to buy a bottle of Champagne, but when

because they provide the winemaker

also mentioned the gifting of sparkling

the salesman starts talking to them, he

with the ability to clearly see what is

wines, especially at this time of the year.

realises the consumer is actually just

happening in the bottles.

While she says her biggest bugbear is

looking for a $10 bottle of sparkling.

“When you taste the disgorged (wine)

the lack of sparkling wines throughout the

“There is an education gap across the

immediately straight from the yeast with

rest of the year, New Zealand producers

market in terms of sparkling and the

no dosage and no post disgorging age,

could also learn a thing or two about

differences. There is little understanding

you can see in the magnums what you

packaging for the coming festive season.

from the general consumer coming into a

are aiming for in the bottles. Because the

“This is where our friends in Champagne

retail store about why you have products

magnum’s micro oxygenation process is

have it captured. Just looking through our

priced at different points.”

much slower. The second fermentation

stores at the moment, all the Champagne

All these issues are something the

is slower, probably due to the lack of

gift packaging is innovative and very

newly formed Méthode Marlborough

oxygen. Therefore it takes a bit longer to

exciting. That’s an area we could work

Society is likely to take into account.

go through that second fermentation.”

on.”

Formed in September this year, Méthode

Comparing magnums side by side,

The biggest trend Glengarry has seen

Marlborough currently involves 11

Tom said, gives the winemaker the

over the past four or five years has been

Marlborough sparkling producers.

ability to determine if they are making

in sales of sparkling wines. Admittedly Liz

Chairperson Stephanie McIntyre says

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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

while celebrating the quality and

special back in the early 90s.

diversity of the locally produced

“I tasted Daniel’s (Le Brun) 1989

sparkling wines, they are also

Blanc de Blancs, which really hit

keen to educate consumers on

the mark. That was the year for me

how sparkling wines differ from

when he produced something of real

other styles.

classic status. The 1990 Brut was a

“Variations of quality sparkling

step up again and that told me that

wines are the result of tangible

Marlborough was a place where

winemaking techniques. For

you could make some world class

example, Méthode Marlborough

sparkling wine.”

wines are made in the traditional

No matter how good our sparklings

method which means the second

may be, we can never use the term

fermentation is in the bottle,

Champagne, which is no longer the

followed by the intricate riddling

deterrent it once was, Tom believes

and disgorging process. This

“Sparkling wine is no longer a

produces the finest and most

the traditional method, made 100% from

persistent bead. Additionally all these

the three traditional varieties (Pinot Noir,

wines are aged for a minimum of 18

Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier) either

months before disgorging takes place.

individually or as a blend and must be

This allows complex flavours to develop,

aged for a minimum of 18 months on

balancing fresh and fruit driven character

less.

with savoury notes of toast and brioche.”

While no one at the tasting expected

Méthode Marlborough has four major

Marlborough sparklings to be able to gain

criteria for members. They must be

the notoriety of Champagne, most agreed

producing sparkling wines that are; 100%

that it wasn’t due to a lack of quality. Tom

grown and made in Marlborough, by

said he knew this region had something

derogatory term. A lot of people around the world started using the term Champagne, particularly in the States, because the term sparkling wine seemed to be cheap. But now you can get sparkling wines that are being produced and sold for £75 in the UK. So the idea that sparkling wine as a term somehow brings the product down, no longer exists.”

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Tutus and Wine TESSA NICHOLSON

Six weeks on the road with only a few days off, ensured the Royal New Zealand Ballet made the most of their trip to Marlborough – visiting one of the company’s major sponsors. Nautilus Estate has been involved with the Royal New Zealand Ballet since 2011 and have partnered one of the dancers, Antonia Hewitt, for the past 12 months. They have just renewed their sponsorship through until 2015. While not the first wine company to align themselves with the arts, Nautilus’s partnership is a first for them. They take the role very seriously, even going so far as to produce a limited edition wine

packaged in a specially designed box.

this year to commemorate the 60th

Launched in October, the wine is already

anniversary of the company.

receiving rave reviews, not the least from

Only 200 cases of a Sparkling Rosé,

the dancers themselves.

made from 100 percent Pinot Noir,

When in Marlborough as part of the

were produced this year, each bottle

TOWER Tutus on Tour, the ballet troupe

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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

were hosted at the Nautilus winery for a

down, it appears you can’t keep a good dancer down either, not

tour, tasting and lunch. The art of making

even on the uneven ground of a vineyard, as the photo below

wine was explained by wine makers Clive

shows.

Jones and Brett Bermingham, with the

It has been a huge month for Nautilus Estate – as they also took

dancers treated to tastings straight out of

out the Champion Wine of the Show with their Nautilus Cuvée Brut

tanks and barrels.

NV. It is only the third time in the 27-year history of the competition

Just as you can’t keep a good winemaker

that a sparkling wine has been awarded the coveted title of Champion Wine. Chair of Judges and Master of Wine, Michael Brajkovich, described the wine as having, “a richness, length and complexity on the palate that finishes with a fine, persistent acidity. This is a classic expression of this exciting wine style and a clear pointer as to how good New Zealand Sparkling wine already is and can be in the future.” The award winning wine is made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes, and has been receiving accolades since it was launched in 1989.

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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

12/2013 WINEPRESS

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12/2013 WINEPRESS

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

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Generation Y-ine ANNABELLE LATZ

Toby Morris - Marisco Vineyards As a wee fella, Toby Morris used to blat around his neighbour’s apple orchard on his motorbike. Now Toby is the cellar foreman at Marisco Vineyards winery, and the former apple orchard owner – Brent Marris – is his boss. Marisco Vineyards will be expanding this summer, with the planting of 85 hectares of vines at Leefield, as part of a long-term project to eventually have 850ha of grapes on the well-known block of land up the Waihopai Valley. When 27 year-old Toby joined Marisco prior to its first harvest in 2010, the winery was barely much more than a concrete pad. Fresh from completing a two-year Diploma in Winemaking Science at EIT, Hawke’s Bay, Toby joined the team as a cellar hand, one of three that year. “It’s been pretty cool seeing it come up from scratch. I had to put my foot in and really challenge myself.” He admits that initially the first harvest loomed as a scary event, being in a brand new winery with many unknown factors. “But it was really awesome. Everything ran like clockwork.” Having lived in Marlborough for 22 years, Toby still remembers vividly when the region was predominantly sheep, beef and apples, preceding the rows of grapes more commonly seen today. His initial career path of choice was tourism,

and in 2005 he headed to Lincoln University to study in that field. His holidays were spent back at home in Marlborough, and as the wine industry grew, so did Toby’s interest in the industry. As a summer holiday money earner, Toby would spend his days at Spring Creek Vintners, and this sowed the seed for what was to come; his interest in combining wine and tourism in Marlborough. “When I got into the wine industry during my holidays I realised that it would be a great mix .” With tourism a part of his background, he likes the idea of matching this region’s wines with food, along the lines of Hokitika’s Wild Food Festival. “I have learnt a lot about of the lay of the land here, from working with wines from the Rapaura area right up to Waihopai and Delta. Variation in wines from soil types is huge here and brings out some really different and awesome flavours, which can all be appropriately matched to wild foods and seafood. It’s about soaking up the real Kiwi culture while enjoying the fine wines of Marlborough.” One of the big feats over recent years for him has been Marisco bringing home a Gold award from the London Wine and Spirits Competition 2011, which he describes as a real feat for such a small team. Toby is already looking forward to his fifth harvest with Marsico, which will involve four permanent cellar hands, and between 14 to 20 harvest cellar staff. “My role is to ensure the cellar is running efficiently, overseeing the day to day operations.” Toby says organisation is

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important, so outside harvest time he arrives at the winery at 7.30am, to ensure the daily plan is in place before the team arrives for a start time of 8am. “I like to make a plan, not just for the day but for the week. Then everyone gets a wide view of what’s coming up. It helps when everyone is on the same page.” As a man who is keen on being active in the cellar, he likes to have a strong hold on exactly what is happening. “I make sure everyone is happy and smiley and morale is high.” Because the state of the art winery is so efficient, Toby says he can spend quality time with staff in the cellar, which he holds with huge value and importance. “I see myself as a really hands-on person.”

Working with Pinot Noir is a favourite of Toby’s, and he really enjoys barrel work. “I really enjoy seeing different barrels performing the way they do. The way the oak affects the wine differently; it’s really interesting.” He also likes seeing the differences in the wine flavours, depending on what block the grapes have come from and how old the vines are, which are still very young. With 200 ha of grapes spreading from the Waihopai River to the Delta, grape makeup is hugely diverse. “The vineyard and the winery, we are one big team. Team work is huge in a place like this.” Aiming to eventually get into production management, Toby says he always wants everyone in the cellar to feel they are part

of a team. “Everyone has their key part in the cog, and we strive to make the product as best we can.” When not busy ensuring the smooth operations of the cellar at Marisco, he loves to be out in Marlborough’s wilderness diving or fishing, or amongst the rugged terrain hunting deer and pigs. During the winter he’s on the rugby field, where he plays flanker for the Awatere Tussock Jumpers in the Senior competition. Toby loves being based in Marlborough, which he sees as a region with huge potential for more diversity with winemaking varieties and methods. “We are still learning, and that is exciting.”

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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

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Wine Unwound A ROOKIE’S PERSPECTIVE WITH ANNABELLE LATZ

The Colour of Lean Bursts of colour throughout the winery

accessible area means less walking, and

equipment walls to save leg work that

and colourful charts are a constant stark

less time looking for one.

many think about but don’t mention.

reminder for all of us at New Zealand

All these simple measurements save

It’s sometimes a bit like revisiting your

Wineries to be a good tidy kiwi.

time.

teenaged-self and having your mother in

Lean Manufacturing is the concept

It’s easy to think that there is a lack of a

your ear reminding you to be clean and

encompassing the overall aim in a

piece of equipment in the winery, such

tidy and do what you’re told.

workplace of continuous improvement.

as little essentials like water pushers. But

But as we’re older and wiser, we can see

One outcome is that it shaves seconds

once everyone makes a big effort to put

the immediate and constant benefits, and

off each task carried out, to ultimately

them back where they live, you realise

it’s enjoyable.

create more time, and thus get more

there were loads all along.

I have heard about tanks that tell us when

done throughout the day.

Lean Manufacturing is as much a team

they are near full by letting out a mighty

Continuously throughout each day

effort as it is an individual, and it’s vital

big BEEP. I would quite like flashing

various tasks take place, which involve

that everyone is enthusiastic about it.

lights. Wouldn ‘t that be fun? But actually,

many steps.

The colourful weekly task board graces

I prefer to climb stairs to check tank

Racking wine off lees, transferring wine

the walls where the daily morning

levels. It provides tremendous views of

from tank to tank or between barrel and

meetings are held. These outline simple

the region, and beats the step machine

tank, degassing wine for dispatch or

tasks like ensuring submersible pumps

thing at the gym as a form of exercise.

bottling preparation, making additions to

are sparkling clean and ullaged tanks are

A task I was assigned to recently was

wine, cleaning tanks, cross flowing wine,

gassed.

water-blasting drains to give them a

sending the wine off site into a container,

Tasks are assigned to individuals, with a

good clean out. By doing so I restocked

and so the list goes on.

red or green magnet marker indicating

the seals department of the equipment

From the first tool that is taken off the

completion. It’s always nice to have a

wall, and learned very quickly to keep

shelf, to signing the job sheet at the

green magnet next to your task as proof

my mouth shut when the water was on,

end of the task, multiple movements are

you’ve done your bit.

unless I wanted to eat drain goo.

involved in the job.

The improvements idea is a bandwagon

http://annabellelatz.blogspot.co.nz/

Simple improvements to the winery

that is always fun to get aboard. An

system such as colour coding tools

improvement is floated at the morning

to different quarters ensures each

meeting, written up as a proposal by the

equipment wall is equally full at the end

individual who thought of it, discussed in

of each day. Having easily accessible

more detail as a team, and carried out if

water cleaning stations means equipment

agreed upon.

is always clean, which saves minutes on

What struck me was the amount of little

each job as gear is always ready to go.

improvements we think about every day

Having all the pumps in one big easily

such as having mini washing bays by

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

12/2013 WINEPRESS

New Zealand Wine Export Report October Key Points • MAT September 2013 export value is $1.235 billion, up 3% on the previous year. • MAT October 2013 exports are 173.5 m. litres, down 2% on the previous year; packaged exports are +3% for the period and other exports are down 12%. • Average value MAT September 2013 is $7.19 per litre up 6% on the previous year; packaged export value is $8.41 per litre up 0.1% on the previous year. Total Export Volume & Value • MAT September 2013 total value of exports is $1.235 billion, up 3% on the previous year. • YTD September 2013 total value of exports is $372.0 million, up 7% on the previous year. • Total value of September 2013 exports was $148.3 m. down 12% on September 2012. • MAT October 2013 exports are 173.5 m. litres, down 2% (2.8 m. litres) on the previous year. • YTD October 2013 exports are 73.2 m. litres, up 3% (2.4 m. litres) on the previous year. • October 20134 exports were 19.6 m. litres up 1% (0.2 m. litres) on October 2012. Export Value per Litre • All wines September 2013 average value was $6.85 per litre, up  $0.04 per litre on September 2012. YTD September 2013 average value is $7.03 per litre MAT September 2013 average price is $7.19 per litre, up $0.01 from the previous month and up 6% or $0.40 per litre on MAT September 2012. • Packaged wines Excluding unpackaged wine from the

12/2013 WINEPRESS

data, the September 2013 average value was $8.17 per litre, down $0.09 litre on September 2012. YTD September 2013 the average price is $8.40 per litre. MAT September 2013 the average price is $8.41 per litre, up $0.01 (0.1%) per litre on MAT September 2012. MAT September 2013 prices are up 1% to the UK and USA, are unchanged to Australia but are down 3% to Canada. Export Volume by Country of Destination • In October, for the major markets, exports were up 18% to Australia but were down 4% to the USA and 14% to the UK. Canada was down 32% for the month, while performance of other markets was mixed, with the best performers being Netherlands and Hong Kong. • YTD October 2013 growth is led by USA +4%, and Australia +3%, but the UK is -1%. Shipments to Canada are unchanged on last year. Germany, Netherlands & Singapore are the other best performers. • MAT October 2013 growth is led by the USA +9% with Australia unchanged but the UK is -13%. Canada shipments are +5% for the year. Performance of other tracked markets is mixed with Germany +27% and Singapore +20% the strongest performers. Export Volume by Packaging Type • Exports of packaged wines MAT October 2013 are 124.3 m. litres up 3.3% (4.0 m. litres) on the previous year and are 71.1% of total export volume. • MAT October 2013 packaged export growth is being driven by increased exports of packaged wine to the USA +12.6%. • Exports of packaged wines YTD October

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

2013 are 50.0 m. litres, up 5.8% on the previous year. • October 2013 packaged exports were 13.2 m. litres, down 2.6% on October 2012. • Other (non-packaged) wine shipments MAT October 2013 are 49.2 m. litres down 12.1% (28.9% of export volume). Non-packaged shipments decline is led by the UK (-34%). • Non-packaged exports YTD October 2013 are 23.3 m. litres down 1.5% (0.3 m. litres) on the previous year. • October 2013 non-packaged shipments were 6.4 m. litres, down 9.0% on October 2012. Exports by Variety/Style • In October 2013 Sauvignon Blanc exports were 17.4 m. litres, up 4% from the previous year, accounting for 89% of export volume. Of the Sauvignon Blanc exported in October, 16.4 m litres was from Vintage 2013 and 0.9 m. litres was from Vintage 2012. • Performance of other styles was generally poor in October with Pinot Gris the strongest performer +28%. • YTD October 2013 Sauvignon Blanc exports are 63.9 m. litres up 5% on the previous year. Performance of other styles is mixed with Sparkling the strongest performer. • MAT October 2013, Sauvignon Blanc shipments are 147.6 m. litres unchanged from the previous year. • Production of Sauvignon Blanc in 2013 is estimated to have been 167.8 m. litres, 27% up on the previous year. Shipments of vintage 2013 Sauvignon Blanc since release are 64.0 m. litres or 38.2% of estimated production, the highest level at this time since data collection began in 2004.

Wine Happenings A monthly list of events within the Marlborough wine industry. To have your event included in next month’s calendar please email details to tessa.nicholson@me.com JANUARY 2014 4 Cromwell Wine and Food Festival – Cromwell 30 – Feb 1 Central Otago Pinot Noir Celebration – Central Otago FEBRUARY 6 – 9 8 16 22 MARCH 8 8 15 15 23 APRIL 4 – 6 5

Seresin Estate Waterfall Bay Dinners – with guest Chef Anna Hansen MBE. Details from pete@seresin.co.nz 30th Anniversary Marlborough Wine and Food Festival Brightwater Festival - Nelson 0cean and Orchard Wine and Food Festival – Kerikeri

The Dog Point/Logan Brown Classic Kisi Picnic, 12 noon – 4.30ish. Dog Point Vineyards, Blenheim. Tickets picnic@ dogpoint.co.nz West Coast Wild Foods Festival – 25th Anniversary – Hokitika Gibbston Wine and Food Festival – Central Ortago Wairarapa Wines Harvest Festival – Wairarapa, Gladstone Waipara Valley Wine and Food Festival – Waipara

The Food Show Christchurch - Christchurch Forrest GrapeRide, Marlborough – full details at www.graperide.co.nz

GREAT FOOD, GREAT WINES AND GREAT FRIENDS COME TOGETHER AT HERZOG’S BISTRO! Come and enjoy Marlborough’s stunning Spring days and join us for a casual lunch in the beautiful Bistro gardens or cosy up in front of the open fire for a delicious dinner. All for the love of wine! And for all you wine aficionados, come and indulge in one of New Zealand’s largest International wine lists!

HERZOG OPENING HOURS LUNCH: Wed to Sun: Main menu, 12pm - 3pm; DINNER: Wed to Sat: From 6pm - late Check out our latest menu online - www.herzog.co.nz CELLAR DOOR: Mon to Fri: 9am to 5pm, Weekends: 11am to 4pm Hans Herzog Estate | 81 Jeffries Road | Blenheim |03 572 8770 | info@herzog.co.nz | www.herzog.co.nz

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

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News From Home and Away Wine Spectator Top 100 America’s leading wine journal the Wine Spectator has awarded global recognition to two Marlborough Pinot Noirs – Greywacke Pinot Noir 2011 and Astrolabe Pinot Noir 2010, by including them in their Top 100 List. They are the only two New Zealand wines to be included and is a massive shot in the arm for Pinot Noir from this region. Greywacke was ranked 48th while Astrolabe was ranked at 60th. Wine Spectator Top 100 selection criteria rank and reward wines on several parameters – quality, value, availability and an allimportant “X-factor” that equates to what the magazine describes as excitement. Greywacke founder Kevin Judd says it’s fantastic to see Marlborough Pinot Noir being recognized internationally. “The evolution of Marlborough’s reputation for exceptional Pinot Noir has taken time, but now we are seeing the positive results of intricate site selection, the cultivation of superior clones and the gradual escalation of knowledge, experience and most importantly, vine age. There has never been any doubt in my mind that Marlborough has the capacity to produce world standard Pinot Noir. The Wine Spectator result serves to validate that belief.” Air New Zealand Wine Awards Seven trophies to Marlborough, including

classifieds WANTED clean used white barrels for Vintage 2014. Please email winemaker@avlwine.co.nz or ring Steve (03) 5447585

Champion Wine of the Show. Congrats to all the winners. Air New Zealand Champion Wine of the Show Nautilus Cuvée Brut NV Label and Litho Limited Champion Sauvignon Blanc Boundary Vineyards Rapaura Road Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Guala Closures NZ Champion Pinot Gris Lake Chalice Marlborough Pinot Gris 2013 Plant & Food Research Champion Riesling Highfield Riesling 2012 Wineworks Champion Sparkling Wine Nautilus Cuvée Brut NV Stuff.co.nz Champion Dessert Wine Riverby Estate Noble Riesling 2012 New World Champion Open White Wine Lake Chalice Marlborough Pinot Gris 2013 Marlborough Wine Show O-I New Zealand Champion Wine of the Show Villa Maria Cellar Selection Marlborough Dry Riesling 2013 The Marlborough Museum Legacy Award Johanneshof Cellars vintages 2006, 2010, 2012 The Marlborough Wine Show Award for Vineyard Excellence Jointly awarded to Ara Wines and Villa Maris for their Seddon Vineyard. Winemakers’ Association of Marlborough trophy for Champion Sparkling Wine Hawkesbridge Marlborough Methode Traditionnelle 2009 WineWorks trophy for Champion Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Wither Hills Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2013

WineWorks trophy for Champion Sauvignon Blanc 2012 The Fuder Single Vineyard Selection: Matthews Lane Sauvignon Blanc 2012 WineWorks trophy for Champion Sauvignon Blanc Emerging Style The Fuder Single Vineyard Selection: Matthews Lane Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Ormond Nurseries Ltd trophy for Champion Chardonnay - 2012 Mount Riley 17 Valley Chardonnay 2012 Ormond Nurseries Ltd trophy for Champion Chardonnay 2011 The Fuder Single Vineyard Selection: Clayvin Chardonnay 2011 TNL Freighting trophy for Champion Pinot Gris Villa Maria Single Vineyard Seddon Vineyard Pinot Gris 2013 New Zealand King Salmon trophy for Champion Riesling 2013 – 2012 Villa Maria Cellar Selection Marlborough Dry Riesling 2013 New Zealand King Salmon trophy for Champion Riesling 2011 and Older Spring Creek Estate Marlborough Riesling 2011 Mantissa Corporation trophy for Champion Gewürztraminer Johanneshof Cellars Marlborough Gewürztraminer 2012 The Honey Company Limited trophy for Champion Sweet Wine Giesen The Brothers Marlborough Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Classic Oak Products trophy for Champion Pinot Noir 2012 Lawson’s Dry Hills The Pioneer Pinot Noir 2012

Disclaimer: The views and articles that are expressed and appear in Winepress are those entirely those of contributors and in no way reflect the policy of the Marlborough Winegrowers. Any advice given, implied or suggested should be considered on its merits, and no responsibility can be taken for problems arising from the use of such information.

12/2013 WINEPRESS

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

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