Winepress - March 2013

WINEPRESS Issue No. 223 / March 2013

Marlborough In 2050

Pinot Noir 2013

Demand for Vines

Festival 2013

Photo: Jim Tannock

The Official Magazine of

www.wine-marlborough.co.nz

In this issue...

Regulars

Features

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8

4 7

Editorial

Tasman Crop Met Report Marketing Matters

27 Wine Happenings

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From Home and 28 News Away

All correspondence including advertising / associate memberships / change of address to: Wine Marlborough PO Box 511, Blenheim 7240 T: 03 577 9299, F: 03 577 9298 E: admin@wine-marlborough.co.nz www.wine-marlborough.co.nz

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Printed by: Blenheim Print Ltd. T: 03 578 1322 WINEPRESS is printed with vegetable oil based inks on elemental chlorine free paper which is sourced 100% from well managed forrests and manufactured under ISO 14001 Environmental Management Systems.

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Marlborough – Back to the Future Viticulturist Richard Smart played a major role in the formation of Marlborough as a wine producing region. Back in the province last month, he looked at where we have come from and what the potential is for the future.

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Nurseries Gear Up For Demand In 2009, grape vine nurseries hit their worst year ever. Orders dried up and companies began following suit. However things have turned sharply in the past six months. Now nurseries are struggling to keep up with increased demand for vines.

Pinot Noir 2013 From advice on how to begin making money from our Pinot Noir, through to authenticity and how to achieve it, our Pinot Noir 2013 summary covers some of the highlights of the recent conference. Plus we take a closer look at the inaugural Marlborough Pinot Noir Safari.

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Being Compliant over Vintage Vintage has begun, and it is only going to get busier. The Council explains what they are looking for compliance wise this year, and we review a vehicle compliance seminar held last month.

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CONTACT KIRSTEN CREASY ON 027 478 6093

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From the Editor

Wine Marlborough Free to all levy paying members Associate Members: $77 +GST Editor: Tessa Nicholson 16 Bank Street Blenheim T: 021 709 571 E: tessa.nicholson@me.com If you wish to make contact with any member of the Wine Marlborough Board, the following are their email addresses.

Dominic Pecchenino: nzyanks@xtra.co.nz Blair Gibbs: blair@spyvalley.co.nz James Jones: james@starborough.co.nz Ivan Sutherland: ivan@dogpoint.co.nz Ben Glover: ben@zephyrwine.com Ruud Maasdam: ruud@staetelandt.co.nz Clive Jones: cjones@nautilusestate.com Guy Lissaman: glissaman@xtra.co.nz

Just as the wine industry starts moving forward, a serious issue is looming that could stymie that momentum. Labour.

For pruning 2013, Labour Coordinator Claire Wilson believes this region will require 4,800 people to deal with the 24,000+ hectares of vines. 1,500 of those will be permanent New Zealanders, the industry had hoped another 1,550 would be workers brought in under the RSE scheme, while the rest would be made up of unemployed, casual workers and backpackers.

Last year RSE Contractors brought in just under 1,200 workers to Marlborough. This year with vines aging and increased confidence within the industry, those contractors believed they would require 1,550 workers. The Ministry for Social Development supported that request, but for only 1,450, 100 less than industry wanted. Why? Because the Ministry of Business, Innovation and Employment (formerly DOL) does not believe Marlborough requires the higher number. This has become evident by the number of workers being approved under the RSE scheme to date.

So this winter, Marlborough’s wine industry will require nearly 2,000 New Zealanders or visitors with Working Holiday Visas to make up the shortfall.

With unemployment up throughout the country, it is understandable that the government is keen to promote work for New Zealanders first. But factor in that Marlborough has lower than average unemployment, with only 280 in this area unemployed at the end of February. Nowhere near the 2,000 workers required.

That leaves employers with just two options – employing casual workers or backpackers. Back to the situation the region was in during the early 2000s.

Add to that the fact most visitors don’t tend to stay for the entire season, instead preferring to move on. To have a constant workforce of 2,000 individuals for the season, it is likely Marlborough will have to entice three times that number.

Is that likely to be achieved? Claire Wilson doesn’t believe so. Especially given visitor numbers to the South Island have dropped dramatically since the 2011 Christchurch Earthquake.

So how do we get people into our region, willing to take on one of the most important jobs within the wine industry’s calendar?

RSE was seen as a salve to Marlborough’s worker woes, and it has worked extremely well. So many people bought into it, only to discover the rules have now been changed on them.

If you do nothing else in the next few weeks, please consider lobbying the government, to re-think their decision on RSE numbers. Otherwise, the only certainty is; there will be vines left unpruned come September.

Laurin Gane: laurin.gane@xtra.co.nz Simon Clark: simon@clarkestate.com

TESSA NICHOLSON tessa.nicholson@me.com

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Met Report Table 1: Blenheim Weather Data – February 2013

February 2013

February 2013 compared to LTA

February LTA

Period of LTA

February 2012

GDD’s for: Month - Max/Min¹ Month – Mean²

201.4 196.1

90% 91%

223.3 215.2

(1996-2012) (1996-2012)

201.6 188.3

Growing Degree Days Total Jul 12–Feb 13 – Max/Min¹ Jul 12 - Feb 13 – Mean²

1007.7 1038.7

100.3% 100.2%

1004.5 1037.1

(1996-2012) (1996-2012)

906.5 948.7

23.3 11.1 17.2

+0.2°C -1.3°C -0.6°C

23.1 12.4 17.8

(1986-2012) (1986-2012) (1986-2012)

21.3 12.6 17.0

Grass Frosts (<= -1.0°C)

0

Equal

0.04

(1986-2012)

0

Air Frosts

0

Equal

0.0

(1986-2012)

0

Sunshine hours 291.1 129% Sunshine hours – lowest Sunshine hours – highest Sunshine hours total – 2013 572.2 117%

225.5 133.6 298 487

(1930-2012) 2012 1968 (1930-2012)

133.6

Rainfall (mm) 18.6 42% Rainfall (mm) – lowest Rainfall (mm) – highest Rainfall total (mm) – 2013 77.6 84%

44 1 129 92

(1930-2012) 1973 & 1983 1936 (1930-2012)

38.0

Mean Maximum (°C) Mean Minimum (°C) Mean Temp (°C) (0.0°C)

404.3

63.6

Evapotranspiration – mm

115.0

106%

108.4

(1996-2012)

95.5

Avg. Daily Windrun (km)

195.6

75%

258.8

(1996-2012)

204.7

Mean soil temp – 10cm

18.7

+0.5°C

18.2

(1986-2012)

18.0

Mean soil temp – 30cm

21.7

+1.3°C

20.4

(1986-2012)

19.9

¹GDD’s Max/Min are calculated from absolute daily maximum and minimum temperatures ²GDD’s Mean are calculated from average hourly temperatures Temperature You may find it hard to believe that the mean temperature for February 2013 was 0.6°C below the long-term average.

The fact that the mean temperature in February 2012 was 12.0°C and only 12.2°C in February 2013 is somewhat confusing until you examine the average maximum and minimum temperatures for both years.

The temperature data in Table 1 indicate that the mean maximum temperature for February 2013 was 23.3°C, 0.2°C above the long-term average (19862012). In contrast the mean maximum in February 2012 was 21.3°; 1.8°C below the long-term average. The mean minimum temperature in February 2013 was 11.1°C; 1.3°C below the long-term average of 12.4°C. The mean minimum temperature in February 2012 was 12.6°C; 0.2°C above the long-term average. The daily range in temperature in February 2013 was 12.2°C, whereas in February 2012 it was only 8.8°C; compared to long-term average of 10.7°C. Frequent high pressure systems over New Zealand in February 2013 led to clear, sunny skies. However, clear skies also lead to loss of heat during the night, and as a consequence, lower

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daily minimum temperatures and a higher daily range in temperature. In contrast February 2012 was overcast with cooler daytime and warmer night time temperatures.

The 2012-2013 season so far The average temperature for the current season from September 2012 to February 2013 was 15.3°C, compared to the long-term average of 15.1°C. In contrast, the previous season for the same 6-month period was cool, with an

average of 14.7°C. When we compare the average daily maximum temperature between the two seasons, the difference becomes more apparent. September 2012 to February 2013 average monthly maximum was 20.9°C; 1.3°C above the previous season (2011-2012 = 19.6) and 0.5°C above the long-term average of 20.4°C. Growing Degree-Days The path of the solid black growingdegree day line (Figure 1) for the current season during February 2013 reflects the lower than average mean temperature.

With below average temperatures in the latter half of February the GDD line fell back down to the long-term average line at the end of the month.

The dates of flowering and harvest for 2-cane pruned Sauvignon blanc vines at Squire Estate in central Rapaura have been included on the GDD graph, Figure 1. The straight line through the flowering dates indicates the trend of later flowering in years where GDD’s are below average. There is a two week spread from the earliest to the latest 50% flowering date (4 Dec 2005 and 17 December 2011). By harvest at 21.5°Brix the time difference has extended out to over four weeks (10 March 2006 and 9 April 2012).

The three GDD lines in the bottom half of Figure 1 at the beginning of April are widely separated. However, there is little difference in harvest date between these three seasons. This highlights that heat accumulation (GDDs) from January to harvest has much less of an effect on the date of harvest than heat accumulation in the early part of the season, from prior to budburst through until early berry development in late December. The GDD lines for 04/05 and 11/12 were at a very similar point at the beginning of January in both seasons. It was relatively warm from mid-January 2005 through to harvest

Figure 1: Growing degree days for Blenheim: days ahead (+) or behind (-) average X – indicates dates of 50% flowering and harvest date at 21.5°Brix for 2-cane pruned Sauvignon blanc at Squire Estate in Central Rapaura

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Figure 2: Seasonal moisture balance for Blenheim: difference between 3-month totals of rainfall and potential evapotranspiration

Table 2: Sunshine hours over the summer of 2013 compared to 2012 2011-2012 % of 2012-2013 % of Long Term LTA LTA Average December 167.4 68% 256.4 104% 246.0 January 270.7 104% 281.1 108% 261.3 February 133.6 59% 291.1 129% 225.5 Total 571.7 78% 828.6 113% 732.8 whereas in 2012 it was cool from midJanuary to harvest. However, the date of harvest was largely determined by the time of flowering and the temperatures during flowering. 50% flowering was on 11 December 2004 and 17 December 2011. 2004 flowering was earlier as budburst was earlier. However, very cold weather over flowering in December 2004 (14.7°C) pushed the harvest date out to a greater extent than the cool weather in December 2011 (16.0°C). Crop load does have an effect on harvest date, however temperatures in the early part of the season, that determine the dates of budburst and flowering are the main determinant of the date of harvest.

At the beginning of March 2013 the current season is tracking about seven to 10 days ahead of 2012, but similar to 2007 and 2010. The projected date of 21.5 Brix at Squire Estate is 29 March 2013, compared to 9 April 2012.

Sunshine February 2012 recorded 291.1 hours sunshine or 129% of the long-term average. February 2013 is now the 2nd sunniest February on record for Blenheim for the 84 years, 1930-2013. The sunniest February on record is 1968 with 298 hours.

In Met Report one year ago I reported that the February 2012 sunshine total was the lowest on record. The February 2013 total is in stark contrast and over double (218%) the total of February 2012 (Table 2).

What has made the summer of 2012-

2013 one to remember is the good sunshine hours; much more so than the temperatures. If days are sunny it feels like summer and you are much more likely to want to have a swim than if the days are overcast. All three months this summer have recorded above average sunshine hours. In contrast, last summer, only January 2012 was above average.

December 2011 and February 2012 recorded very low sunshine totals.

Rainfall February 2013 recorded 18.6 mm rain, or 41% of the long-term average. All of February’s rain fell in one event on the 4th. Total rainfall for the four months November 2012 to February 2013 was 110.0 mm, or only 59% of the long-term average total of 185.6 mm (Table 3).

However, low rainfall over this period is not uncommon for Blenheim. Summer dry periods have occurred on a number of occasions in Marlborough over the past 15 years.

Table 3: Recent seasons with low November to February rainfall 6-month rainfall

mm

% of LTA

Nov 1997 - Feb 1998

97.9

53%

Nov 2000 - Feb 2001

44.8

24%

Nov 2007 – Feb 2008

117.2

63%

Nov 2009 – Feb 2010

99.0

53%

Nov 2012 – Feb 2013

110.0

59%

Long-term average

185.6

Wind Run Average daily wind run for February was

195.6 km, the lowest total for the 18 years 1996-2013; i.e. February 2013 was very calm. The long-term average for February (1996-2012) is 258.8 km. Only three days during February 2013 recorded greater than the average wind-run of 258.8 km.

Potential Evapotranspiration High sunshine hours and relatively warm days meant that potential evapotranspiration (PET) of 115 mm was above the long-term average for February of 108.4 mm. However, the low wind-run prevented the PET from being higher.

Potential evapotranspiration for the four months November 2012 to February 2013 was 540.8 mm. In contrast the rainfall for those four months was only 110.0 mm, i.e. PET exceeded rainfall by 430.8 mm.

The difference between PET and rainfall is commonly referred to as the seasonal moisture balance (either +ve or –ve).

To refresh your memory Figure 2 shows the difference between the total rainfall and evapotranspiration over a moving 3-month period. This allows you to look at the seasonal moisture balance as a season progresses. The black line is the long-term average. This shows that Blenheim has a four month period from mid-June through until mid-October when there is normally a water surplus; i.e. rainfall exceeds evapotranspiration. For the eight months mid-October through until mid-June Blenheim experiences a water deficit.

The red line for the current season plummets from November 2012 onwards, due to the low rainfall. The water balance is considerably lower than in either of the two previous seasons. The accumulated potential deficit at 27 February 2013 is 318 mm, compared to the long-term average deficit of 213 mm. The deficit at the end of February 2012 was similar to the deficit at the end of March 2011.

As the water balance is to a large extent determined by rainfall, the seasons with low rainfall outlined in Table 3, are also those higher than average potential water deficit.

Rob Agnew Plant & Food Research

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Marketing Matters WITH SARAH BOOKER

The Marlborough Wine & Food Festival 2013 - A Vision and its Execution Change was always on the

The main purpose of

cards following the 2012

the pavilion was to

Marlborough Wine & Food

educate the public of

Festival and the committee

the wonderful produce

gave themselves a

we have right on our

challenge, to make the

doorstep. With the

festival, the not-to-be-

support of NZ King

missed event of 2013.

Salmon, Cloudy Bay

Where did it all start for the

Clams, Fisher & Paykel

Marlborough Wine & Food

and Beef & Lamb NZ,

Festival? In 1985 a group

we were able to invite

of Malburians lead by

a fantastic line-up of

Malcolm Aitken developed

New Zealand cooks and

an event to celebrate the

chefs to host culinary

emergence and success

demonstrations (Chef’s Table) throughout the day.

of Marlborough’s wine

great wine, food and New Zealand music.

industry. The concept was developed

Over the past four years there have been

The demonstrations were packed with

and patrons travelled around on buses to

a number of new winery/vineyard events,

people, both domestic and international,

a number of wineries including Corbans,

concerts and festivals popping up around

keen to watch celebrity chefs cook and

Te Whare Ra, Hunters and Daniel le

the country, all competing for ticket sales.

to taste their food. The Culinary Pavilion

Brun, where they were treated to unique

This competition and ‘sameness’ was

was also home to Marlborough Local

experiences including wine tastings

another contributing factor for change

Food Heroes which attracted thousands

and musical entertainment (similar to

and evolving the event to create a point

of people throughout the day, blown away

the Toast Martinborough event today).

of difference for patrons. Luckily we have

by the selection and quantity of local

In 1987 Gerry Gregg proposed to the

a number of fantastic existing features to

produce in our region.

organising committee that the festival

leverage off of, namely Brancott Vineyard

Another new feature was the Festival

move to a single site, Brancott Vineyard,

which is one of the most stunning venues

Quarter where a number of wine and

and this is where it has been held ever

in the country, as well as the wonderful

food sites were located. This feature

since.

wine and food stories and producers we

showcased a selection of Marlborough

The event has evolved over the past 29

have in our region.

wines for tasting as well as a number of

years from a wine event with numbers

Showcasing Marlborough food and

small and boutique brands (both new

reaching as high as 18,000 people, to a

highlighting it along with the unique

and old). The objective of this new area

smaller event featuring Jazz and a big

selection of Marlborough wines was a

was to create an alternative festival

naming rights sponsor and now, an event

key objective for the organisers and so

experience and a chance to get away

encompassing the wonderful blend of

the Culinary Pavilion was developed.

from the main area and engage with

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wineries and food producers in a more

Public response to the new features,

Walter, Kathy Hughes, Darren Wood

intimate setting.

format and events was overwhelmingly

(Woody) and the Wine Marlborough team.

Music was and is always a key factor

positive, with many stating it was “the

Also thanks to the continued support of

in the festival and organisers looked for

best yet”. Overall the organisers have

our premier sponsors - Blenheim Toyota,

music that would cater for a broader

succeeded in what they set out to do

Gordon Handy Machinery, Bayleys,

audience and also compliment the food

- create an event where everyone that

Interislander, ANZ and Fisher & Paykel

and wine at the event (as opposed to

goes has a fantastic and memorable time

and associated sponsors Marlborough

competing with it). Avalanche City was

and those who didn’t, regret missing out!

Lines, More FM, TNL, Precision

at the top of the list and proved to be

What is the committee going to do in

Helicopters and Marlborough Express.

a huge success with both young and

2014 for the 30th Anniversary? Well,

old. Wellington International Ukulele

more of the same, with a few tweeks, but

We welcome your feedback, so any

Orchestra are dominating the New

look forward to some blasts from the past

suggestions you have please send

Zealand music scene and was another

and some amazing guests!

through to Sarah Booker at sarah@wine-

obvious choice, which paid off – they set

The festival wouldn’t be possible without

marlborough.co.nz

a relaxed, happy and summery mood

the time and effort that is given by the

More photos of Marlborough Wine and

around the site at the end of the day and

festival committee, who include Tim

Food Festival 2013, pages 22 and 23.

played some fantastic songs which had

Crawford (Chairman) Geoff Beavis,

many singing along too.

Maree Connolly, Andrea Craig, Lucy

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Marlborough’s Future TESSA NICHOLSON

Marlborough’s growth has been faster than any other wine region in the world, according to Dr Richard Smart – and that in itself could be cause for concern.

When someone of Dr Smart’s pedigree

New Zealand and southern parts of Chile

makes a comment about the Marlborough

and Argentina.

wine industry, it pays to listen. One of

“Those well known associations between

the world’s best known viticulturists

region and variety, (think Burgundy and

and author of Sunlight into Wine (often

Bordeaux) particularly in southern Europe

referred to as “the Bible of canopy

are going to be disturbed because of

management”), Dr Smart provided some

global warming. You should be protected

thought provoking comments, at a recent

somewhat. But you still might find your

seminar. Based on a theme of “What

styles change.”

Will Marlborough Look Like in 2050”, he

The distinctive style of Marlborough

referred to the phenomenal growth that

Sauvignon Blanc could also change due

took place here between 1998 and 2008.

to the spread of plantings throughout the

“During that decade, Marlborough

province. Dr Smart said he was amazed

was being planted out at a rate of 900

at the growth west of Blenheim, up the

hectares per annum. I know of no other

Wairau Valley.

region in the world that has grown as

“The days appear to be warmer and

much as Marlborough has over the last

nights cooler. What are the implications

decade. But it also means you have a hell

Marlborough and Sauvignon Blanc that

of moving to these other areas, especially

of a lot of your wine equity in vines that

doesn’t happen anywhere else.”

on the style that has always been the

were planted over a 10 year period. They

However will that distinctiveness be

Marlborough signature.”

have all come on stream together.”

there in two generations time? Or will

The other major issue is the industry’s

When looking at why the region has

issues outside of our control impact on

dependency on one Sauvignon Blanc

grown so fast, Dr Smart said it has been

the future? The biggest of those issues

clone (UCD2) – something he said he has

fed by the international success and

to consider will be the impact of climate

never been able to understand.

distinctiveness of Sauvignon Blanc.

change.

“In terms of vulnerability surely that is

The massive growth would not have

“We know the climate will change

not a good thing. I wonder why there is

happened if we had been planting

between now and (2050), and

not more clone selection going on for

Chardonnay.

temperatures could rise by up to 3

Sauvignon Blanc. And I wonder why you

“But what is so special about

degrees, which is a pretty big change.

don’t do it here, where you want to use it.

Marlborough? I know the climate is

We do know though that the places that

I have been involved in clone selection

special but there are plenty of places

will be least affected by global warming

for Pinot Noir in Tasmania and you can do

that have similar climate. Tasmania is one

are the Southern Hemisphere in general

it pretty simply. Not classical European,

example. So there must be something

and the small islands in the Southern

but I believe you end up with improved

else going on. There is something about

Ocean in particular. Those are Tasmania,

planting material. For Marlborough

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though, having such a limited genetic

especially given all the support and

you do that? You are one of the most

base for such a big industry is not a good

information that is available to assist in

recent, relatively affluent regions and you

thing.”

the decision making process.

are in a western culture where technology

Another weakness which will affect

His theme of adopting technology led him

is available. But I think your weakness is

Marlborough’s future is the failure to

to create a mission statement for the local

technology adoption.”

adopt new technology. Despite having

industry.

Summing up, Dr Smart looked ahead

the Research Centre and the amount

to 2050. He didn’t believe that

of research being undertaken – it

Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc would

is the technological advances in recent years, that growers here seem to be reluctant to take on board. In particular, the determination to stick with VSP canopies.

“When I drive around the vineyards now, they look like the vineyards I saw 30 years ago. The reason could be that that’s the best way to grow grapes. But I know it isn’t and I have spent a lot of time doing research to show that. You would get better yield,

“For Marlborough though, having such a limited genetic base for such a big industry is not a good thing.”

better quality, less disease if you

still be king then and that competitors would start to erode some of our market share.

“If we don’t know why Marlborough is so important to Sauvignon Blanc, then why couldn’t Chile produce the same style?”

When asked if he believed there were other varieties Marlborough should be considering in the future, he surprisingly denounced Gruner Veltliner.

‘I think it is a great variety but you can’t

changed those dreadful VSP canopies

grow it here. We tried it in Tasmania

to divided canopies.”

“This is my Mission statement for

and it just couldn’t get ripe. I don’t think

Growers also need to be making the right

Marlborough Viticulture

it is a variety for Marlborough. In terms of

irrigation decisions. He feels there are too

“To be the most technological advanced,

distinctive white wines, Albariño is one I

many over irrigated vines in Marlborough,

yet consumer environmentally friendly

think you should be planting. And plant

which again he can’t understand,

wine region in the world. Why couldn’t

more Pinot Noir.”

in need of some

clear direction?

• • • •

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Nurseries Gear Up For Demand TESSA NICHOLSON

If demand for grafted grape vines is an indicator of how the wine industry is doing, then recent trends show it is well on the road to recovery.

Back in 2009 Winepress talked to three of the major nurseries in the country, to see how the oversupply of wine had affected them. Phrases such as; “savage” “off the cliff”, and “like hitting a brick wall” punctuated all conversations. Every single company had suffered majorly, orders had dropped off, staff were laid off and most small players literally fell off the radar.

Three years on, there has been a major turnaround – to the point that now, nurseries can’t keep up with demand.

What’s more, it is being led by Sauvignon Blanc once again, which Geoff Thorpe, MD of Riversun, says is rather ironic.

“In the lead up to the crash Sauvignon Blanc was probably 70 percent of what nurseries were grafting. Post the crash, you couldn’t give away Sauvignon Blanc vines. I would say most nurseries didn’t graft many Sauvignon Blanc vines for about three years.

“That has now changed around to where this coming grafting season 65 – 70 percent of our orders are for Sauvignon again. There is going to be a shortage.”

And while the majority of that is coming into Marlborough, this region is not alone in wanting to increase Sauvignon production. Rex Sunde from Misty Valley

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Nursery says he has recently had a very large order for Sauvignon, for a new development planned for Hawke’s Bay. There are a number of reasons for the sudden upsurge in demand.

• The very small 2012 vintage in New Zealand • The lack of replanting/maintenance within vineyards since 2008 • The massive growth in exports – up 80% in volume since 2008 • An increase in consumer demand for Sauvignon Blanc, particularly from Marlborough • The move from bulk to branded wines for the future As Winepress has reported in previous stories, 2012 was a watershed year for the industry. All of a sudden, vineyards were selling, there were buyers lining up to secure established properties.

Wineries, unsure whether they would have enough fruit to supply their established markets, were looking to expand their land base. Growers who had weathered the industry storm, were looking to shore up even more fruit for the future. From a period of no land sales to more than 20 in a nine-month period, Marlborough’s wine industry appeared to be re-emerging from its dark days.

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And if orders for new vines are anything to go by, that re-emergence is going to continue.

Which might send a chill down a few people’s spines. No one, least of all the nurseries want to return to what were considered the halcyon days of 2005 – 2008, where fruit prices rose and massive new developments were regular occurrences.

In 2009 Geoff said we would never see the “expansion phase the New Zealand wine industry has gone through this decade, happen again.”

He stands by that statement today, even with the massive increase in orders for vines.

“We don’t have the land available for those big developments that happened back in the mid 2000s. Eighty-four percent of our wine is Sauvignon Blanc and most of that comes out of Marlborough. There is just not the land and water availability for more of those expansions now and besides the access to capital for them is probably not there either now.”

But perhaps the biggest reason there will not be a repeat of the massive growth seen in the past, is due to the lack of rootstock available in the immediate

It will take some time before nurseries can get back to this level of grafted rootstock, as seen here back in 2006. future. The cold hard truth is that at its peak in 2005, the nursery industry in New Zealand had approximately 30 members.

Now there are just five. At the height of the industry, there were between 15 and 18 million rootstock being supplied to nurseries for grafting. Now there is an estimated six million. And that is not a situation that can be remedied overnight.

“We have a waiting list in some lines,” Rex says. “And in most rootstock we have sold out. In fact on our waiting list we have more customers than our entire production of Sauvignon Blanc at the moment.”

This takes the industry back to the situation in the mid 90s, when waiting lists of three or four years were not uncommon.

“We have possibly one third of the rootstock mother beds we had back in 2008,” he says. “We simply couldn’t afford to look after those mother beds, as they cost a fortune. So they have been wound down and can’t just be wound up overnight.”

The whole demand for vines is not driven just by new developments. Rex says the fact many vineyards have not been maintained over the past four years, means there is now an almost urgent

need for vines to fill in gaps.

“The vine has an average life span of say 20 years. Every year about five percent of vines, (he is referring to Sauvignon Blanc) need to be replaced. But from 2009 to 2012, most people didn’t or couldn’t afford to replace those gaps in their vineyard. It wasn’t such a big issue when growers were facing yield caps. They didn’t need to fill those gaps in, because they were able to reach their cap without them. But all of a sudden in 2012, they didn’t reach those cap levels and those gaps among the vines became far more noticeable. Basically, the huge demand for Sauvignon Blanc, especially in Marlborough, is because it has become economic now for growers to replace those dead vines.”

Geoff agrees, saying from Riversun’s perspective, they believe a quarter of all the vines they produce this year will go towards replanting. The rest will go into new developments. But given the lack of suitable or available land here in Marlborough, there is not likely to be a massive growth surge.

“There is probably only 5000 hectares left in Marlborough, and a reasonable chunk of that is not available for viticulture because landowners are not keen to sell.

Marisco and Ara sit on very large chunks of what is left, so for the rest wanting to increase their plantings and wanting to plant new, land supply is coming under real pressure.”

He believes that will see people looking outside this region for development opportunities. Already Gisborne and Hawke’s Bay are showing signs of growth, with both Rex and Geoff saying they have had significant enquiries from both regions.

If there is a take home message from all this, the men agree that anyone considering replanting or developing, has to be thinking well ahead. Order books for this year are basically full, and with long waiting lists, vines for planting in 2014 are also looking to be scarce.

“As nurserymen, we get upset at not being able to supply vines,” Rex says.

“So we need people to be telling us now, if they want plants for 2015.”

Orders for 2015 are required in advance of September this year, when the grafting takes place. After that – you are likely to be dicing with disappointment.

Ben Wickham from Ormond Nurseries in Marlborough was away when the interviews for this story were being done, hence the lack of comment from him.

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

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The Future of NZ Pinot Noir TESSA NICHOLSON

Selling your Pinot Noir by the case, rather than the bottle, should be the goal of every New Zealand producer, according to Master of Wine, Jasper Morris.

One of the guest speakers

so well in Burgundy and

at January’s Pinot Noir

Bordeaux, that’s where

2013, Jasper said the

you need to end up.”

development of the New

Jasper said once a year

Zealand wine industry

producers should be

in the past 40 years has

making an opening order

been remarkable. From

to release their wines

no Pinot Noir to being

onto the market, to the

the world’ fifth largest

importers, distributors,

producer has happened

restaurants. This leads to

in a spectacularly short

a clamouring for more.

period of time.

“Then the importers,

Breaking it down even

distributors and

further into regions,

restaurateurs will make

Marlborough is the 7th

their offer of New

largest Pinot Noir producer

Zealand Pinot Noir to

in the world, although a

their customers, and

lot of that is still going into

again the emails will

sparkling wines.

come flooding in selling

“So New Zealand is clearly

the single vineyard

one of the major players.

At least in terms of volumes planted, which is pretty amazing given how recently the first vines were planted. But you are not making any money out of it.

It’s not profitable. Small companies, all those that are Pinot predominant, most of you are living hand to mouth. You are owner operators. Many of you have to maintain day jobs or get outside backing.

You are loving what you are doing, but somewhere along the line, I think it has got to be more sustainable financially. In a sense, everyone wants to walk the walk,

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but at the moment there is an element of sleep walking and dreaming the dream.”

Looking to the future, he said there was the possibility of increasing the plantings – as more sites became obvious. But that in itself that won’t improve profitability.

“We need to look at where Pinot needs to be in years to come if it is going to hold a really significant place in the world.

Where you want to arrive at is that people don’t just walk into a shop and take off the shelves just one bottle of Kiwi Pinot.

You want to get people buying by the case. That is the model that has worked

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

bottlings immediately.

That’s the target – that’s when the industry will really have arrived.”

He admitted that will take time, but as the reputation of the wines grow, so too will the ability to sell them at higher price points.

Events such as Pinot Noir 2013 were an important part of building that reputation. Jasper said back in 1986 Jancis Robinson MW had written a book that focused on grape varieties, where they originated from in Europe and likely potential sites.

AsureQuality and WineWorks working together “When she gets to Pinot she concentrates almost entirely on the USA and Australia. Then she adds; ‘New Zealand could be a better bet eventually. It should certainly be capable of producing light delicate Pinots. So far winemakers seem preoccupied proving the upper limit extraction, rather than settling on the optimum one.’

I am sure you will agree, things have moved on very well since

WineWorks is New Zealand’s largest contract bottler. It has partnered with AsureQuality to provide its customers with an integrated range of services, from the time the wine is ready to be bottled, through to final distribution.

TogeTher We offer:

He has noticed a huge change in quality since his first

• Export wine testing to meet EU and other country requirements

experiences with New Zealand Pinot Noir back in the 90s.

• Residue analysis

then,” Jasper said.

“While I haven’t liked every wine, (at Pinot Noir 2013) there have been very few dogs. I thoroughly enjoyed the great majority of

• Chemical analysis

wines and a few I found remarkable. If there is a general trend

• Microbiology testing

that I absolutely applaud, it is the fruit has migrated from the

• Allergen testing

front of the palate. It’s easy to make something that is attractive

• Forensic investigations

to the first sniff and sip. But the fruit has migrated to middle and back of the palate. That is a sign of a wine that is of real interest, a wine that you want to go on drinking and perhaps a wine that may change in the glass as you make your way down the bottle.”

The ability to age our Pinots was another point he was impressed with. The recent conference was the third Jasper had attended, and said in the past two occasions the older wines appeared to be faded versions of their young selves.

“This time the older bottles you have been showing, the 2006, 2007s, have had something of real interest. A confidence, sense of maturity. They are now the older brothers of their younger siblings.”

In terms of advice to winemakers of the future, Jasper said he would like to see New Zealanders take more risk.

“New Zealanders are relatively speaking, risk adverse. I have heard a lot of encouraging words this week that indicate New

A partnership offering total quality assurance

Zealand winemakers are relaxing. They are becoming less dependent on the numbers, the ph, additives, the technical interventions. But there is still a lot of that happening. You need to be a little braver and be prepared to occasionally break the rules and let the feeling take over.”

That will also come in time, he believed, as the potential of

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given sites comes to the surface, expressing themselves. Which given how young New Zealand is in terms of Pinot production, is totally understandable.

www.asurequality.com www.wineworks.co.nz

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Marlborough’s Pinot Safari TESSA NICHOLSON

Following hard on the heels of Pinot Noir 2013 in Wellington, a number of local producers took some distinguished guests on a safari through Marlborough.

It was a case of donning safari helmets,

the flat plains that have dominated the

stuck fording the Awatere River. As a

prior to being loaded into 4WD vehicles,

wine scene since 1973. There are in fact

passenger in said car, I can attest to the

to discover the hidden beauty of

many hillside plantings that never gain

excitement of being halfway across the

Marlborough Pinot Noir. When I say

the opportunity to showcase themselves,

river, facing water sloshing around my

distinguished guests, I mean it. Among

given most are off the beaten track.

calves, and pouring out the passenger

the group of 20, there were four Masters

Hence the necessity for 4WDs.

door. While I was frantically rescuing

of Wine (Tim Atkin, Jasper Morris,

There was just a little consternation when

camera and belongings off the floor,

Ned Goodwin and Bob Campbell), a

the safari helmets were handed out. Did

the driver was desperately attempting

Master Sommelier (Cameron Douglas),

this indicate the paths to be travelled

to secure a tow rope between his and

numerous hotel chain wine buyers and a

required more protection than just a

another vehicle to deliver us to safety.

wide range of wine writing media.

seatbelt? The answer was no, although

That involved stripping off to his shorts

The aim of the safari was to push home

there was one situation when togs were

and having to dive beneath the vehicle

the fact that Marlborough is not just about

almost required, after a vehicle got

more than once. Thankfully once out of

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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

sites that are driving those wines and to talk to the winemakers who are determined to make the most of the sites in terms of Pinot production.

Tweets from many of the guests abounded on the day; from “Great to be immersed in the terroir and altitude” and “Fantastic and insightful adventure.

Kudos to Marlborough”, to “Great day – learnt lots.” Articles regarding the event have already been submitted to a range of magazines according to some of the Masters of Wine attending. So the publicity alone is worth the effort it took to organise such an event.

The wineries that took part were; Terravin, Villa Maria, Ballochdale, Auntsfield, Greywacke, Fromm, Nautilus, Dog Point, Spy Valley and Churton.

the water, the 4WD restarted immediately

South of the Wairau and in the Awatere.

and we were on our way, with much

They represent less than 1% of the

cleaner carpets than we had experienced

total vineyard area of Marlborough.

And just an aside, Tim Atkin, MW has

beforehand.

These sites deserve to have much more

just rated his top 50 New Zealand Pinot

Tarsealed roads didn’t play a big role

recognition and really demonstrate

Noirs. Apparently, nine of those are from

during the daylong event. The majority

that Marlborough produces the most

Marlborough!!!

of the trip was on back roads, through

consistent and some of the best Pinots in

vineyards and along headlands, with

New Zealand.”

plenty of stops to taste wines from the

From the banks of the Awatere River,

participating wineries. The views along

to the heights of Ballochdale, through

the way belied the fact that Marlborough

Taylors Pass, into the Southern Valleys

is renowned for being large valleys,

of Brancott and Omaka, ending in the

caught between ranges. Even to

Waihopai, the safari provided an insight

someone like myself who has spent more

into the development of Marlborough

years in Marlborough than I care to count,

Pinot Noir. Winemakers from each of

the scenery was an eye-opener. Imagine

the participating companies provided

the response from the guests.

the finer details of the wines, as guests

As the booklet produced to accompany

tasted a range of vintages. And everyone

guests stated; “Marlborough Pinot Noir

left impressed. Not just with the event

has, to some extent, been overlooked

and the way it developed during the day.

and overshadowed by regions in New

As one guest commented – “Visitors

Zealand that have more perceived

would pay huge amounts of money to do

glamour. Over the past 15 years there

this, if it was a tourist event.” They also

has been a development of specialist

left with a better understanding of the

Pinot Noir vineyards on interesting

depth of commitment within Marlborough

locations. These vineyards are terroir

to producing Pinot Noir of the highest

driven sites, found in the hills to the

quality. The got to see the less publicised

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Authenticity TESSA NICHOLSON

It was a word that kept reoccurring at Pinot Noir 2013. But what is authenticity and how do we ensure that our wines achieve it?

Given the new generation of wine

recommendation may not be enough –

drinkers is better informed than any other

probably isn’t enough – to sell your wine.

that has gone before it, wine producers

By reducing your wine to numbers you

need to be careful just what marketing

risk becoming just another wine with a

message they are sending. If you talk

gold medal. Leave the scores behind and

the talk, then you have to be able to walk

start telling the tale.”

the walk, according to Sydney based

But that tale has to be true and

freelance wine writer, Mike Bennie.

memorable and not told by others to hit

“When you consider who is mostly

the authentic mark.

the intended target (of social media

“This generation sees through stories that

marketing) it is the up swell of new

are generated,” Bennie said. “The idyllic

generation consumers. These consumers

location for a vineyard but not for growing

are interested in truth and truth for me

grapes. The impresario winemaker, hired

starts with providence.”

to produce wines to a brief. And the

Bennie was one of many to hammer

promise of exception, based on third

home the message that the wines

party endorsement. Such things are hackneyed. Find the story – don’t create

emanating from New Zealand need to stand on their own two feet. They don’t

Mike Bennie

it. When this is summed up, it best paints a picture of authenticity.”

need to be compared with wines from other parts of the world.

just the position of where those grapes

Steve Smith MW believes there has been

“Our wines are not a pale imitation

have come from, but from the position of

too little emphasis given to the fact that

of something else, but a unique

what you personally want from your Pinot

grape growing is just another form of

interpretation,” Master of Wine Jane

Noir, then people will consider those

farming, and the real story is in how we

Skilton said. “Pinot’s mercurial nature

wines authentic. They have been tasting

farm those grapes to produce a bottle of

suits the fearless personality of New

authentic to me and I think the regional

wine.

Zealanders, who pushed the boundaries

interpretations are coming through

“That’s what we should talk about,

to produce wines that have a real sense

authentically.”

those stories of the farm. Stories of the

of identity.”

Using medal tallies and ratings to

land, stories of New Zealand being the

Another Master of Wine, Jasper Morris,

market your wine was an anathema to

youngest place in the world, the last

explained what authenticity meant to him.

authenticity according to many of the

place to be settled by humans. Stories

“If you mess around with the wines, with

speakers.

of how our vines breathe the purest

too many additives, then perhaps it’s not

“We currently define ourselves with our

air in the world and every vine in this

an authentic voice. But if you put your

strong fixation with ratings, scores and

country is touched by the ocean in some

heart and soul into it, you’ve done the

medals,” Skilton said. “But a glowing

way. These are our absolutely authentic

best job you can with the grapes, not

review, a massive score, a five star

stories.”

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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

Our Wine Ambassador in Sweden TESSA NICHOLSON

Sweden is one of three northern European countries being targeted by NZW and NZTE. The promotional arm of the programme began last month with the visit of a top Swedish sommelier.

As part of the on-going three-year joint

are some New Zealand wines there. But it

programme between NZW and NZTE, key

needs expansion, dramatically.”

people have been identified as potential

During his time in New Zealand, he

New Zealand wine ambassadors in

visited all the major wine regions, tasting,

each of the three European countries of

meeting and learning. His appreciation

Germany, the Netherlands and Sweden.

of the styles, varietal range, regional

In the latter’s case, the ambassador

differences and the people behind the

is Lars Trogen, one of Sweden’s top

wines has impressed him. Even before

sommeliers. Currently Lars works as

heading back to Sweden, he was looking

head sommelier at two of Stockholm’s

at adding more New Zealand wines to

best restaurants, Riche and Teatergrillen.

the lists at both Riche and Teatergrillen.

The wine list he manages consists of

His experiences will also provide him

750 international wines. While he has

with material to talk about in a variety of mediums.

only a few New Zealand wines among those 750, his visit to our part of the world

wines, Argentinian wines and American

“I will host tastings, I will talk to media,

last month is likely to see that list grow

wines are getting bigger and bigger.

other importers, sommeliers, people like

substantially.

They are also beginning to drink more

that and take part in interviews. I will

The problem as he sees it, is New

German wines, such as Pinot Noir. So I

become like a third party advocate –

Zealand is still unknown in terms of all

think for New Zealand, it is a matter of

being the one that has the story. Because

varieties outside Marlborough Sauvignon

exposure to a certain extent. I also think

New Zealand Winegrowers can’t tell the

Blanc. And even that style of wine needs

it is important to show that there is more

story themselves, because it wouldn’t

to be boosted in terms of recognition. But

than the entry level stuff. Because at

be credible. Trade and Enterprise can’t

given Sweden is a non wine producing

the moment what sells the most, is entry

either, again because it wouldn’t be

nation, he believes there is a great deal

level Sauvignon Blanc, at around 79 – 89

credible. But because I have been

more curiosity regarding wine, than in

Swedish kroners – ($16 - $19NZ).”

here, I have tasted the wines, met the

many other European countries.

That’s the retail price, not the price in

personalities – I can do it.”

“The entire world is there to be tasted

restaurants he went on to clarify.

So what is his story going to be?

and people in Sweden are already quite

“In restaurants, or at least where I work,

“I will be talking a lot about differences.

adventurous. They have got into Chilean

the focus is on European wines and there

About how it is a complex country. And

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that there are many expressions and

recommending wine, which makes us

get asked, if someone has had a good

personalities, in fact there are so many

good ambassadors. We sell stories every

wine, is ‘Where can we buy this?’ I want

personalities whether they be the grape

single night, so getting something onto a

to get to a point where I can at least say,

grower or the winemaker. I want to make

list that we can talk about, is probably the

if the actual wine isn’t available at the

it a lot less dramatic, because New

best promotion you can get.”

monopoly store, there are other wines of

Zealand is not a pretentious country.

Especially as in Stockholm the restaurant

the same style from the same region or

Being a part of New Zealand wine now,

trade is booming. He said people eat

sub region available. I know it is difficult,

you are kind of in the midst of creating

out a lot more than in other European

but it is something that producers need to

history. Someone put it to me that way

countries at the moment, given Sweden

be working on.”

and I quite like that.”

hasn’t suffered as severely from the GFC

The latest figures show New Zealand

Lars advice to producers who are

as so many others have.

exported 1.5 million litres of wine to

wanting to break into the Swedish market,

But getting the wine into the on-trade,

Sweden, in the 12 months to the end

is to find the right people to champion

needs to be followed up with getting

of January. Both NZW and NZTE are

your wine.

it into the monopoly stores, or on-line,

hoping Lars’ promotion will result in that

“In Sweden it is finding the right

something he admits isn’t as easy as it

increasing in the months to come.

importer for the on-trade. Sommeliers

sounds.

are working with people every day,

“One of the most common questions we

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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

Frost Fan Interim Report Out TESSA NICHOLSON

After a two-day Environment Court hearing regarding frost fans in Marlborough, an interim report has been issued and appears to favour the Marlborough District Council.

The issue of frost fans has been an on-

is unlikely to be happy with the decision.

going one in recent years, since the MDC

At the Environment Court hearing,

resource management plan for Wairau

Winegrower’s lawyer Marija Bastistich

and Awatere imposed a penalty on fans,

of Bell Gully said the new plans were

which produce what is known as Special

the most restrictive of any plan in New

Audible Characteristics (SAC). SAC

Zealand. She also said there were no

are deemed as slapping and humming

frost fans available on the market that

noises that can cause discomfort.

would be able to comply with the new

The plan also restricts sound levels of

rules, on a constant basis.

frost fans to 55 decibels at a distance of

New Zealand Winegrowers also

300 metres. That level though could be

expressed concern at the hearing, that

adjusted down by 5 or 6 decibels, if SAC

the ability to measure SAC was extremely

are present.

variable and could lead to ambiguity and inconsistency.

New Zealand Winegrowers vigorously opposed the plan changes, leading to

decision, given its interim status.

If there is one bright point in the interim

December’s Environment Court hearing.

Winepress believes both parties have

report, it is that the 1000 frost fans

At the end of January, Judge Jon

been asked to comment, and Judge

erected prior to 2009, will not have to

Jackson released his interim report.

Jackson will consider those comments

comply with the new rules. They would

Neither the MDC or New Zealand

later this month.

retain existing use rights and the fans can

Winegrowers are able to comment on the

It is fair to say New Zealand Winegrowers

still run to a noise level of 60 decibels.

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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

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New Marketing Manager TESSA NICHOLSON

Marlborough born and bred Emily Hope is the new Marketing and Communications Co-ordinator for Wine Marlborough.

Starting on the job two days after

“We both really got into wine

the Marlborough Wine and Food

when we were in Italy. We were

Festival, Emily is now getting to

surrounded by it, so coming back

grips with her new role. It’s one

to Marlborough is a major bonus

she is more than happy to take on,

for us.”

especially given her love of wine

While she hasn’t been away from

and her family involvement in the

the province for all that long, she

Marlborough wine industry.

still sees some major changes.

Her parents planted their first

“Coming back there are so many

vines, with a little help from Emily,

new brands and there is a major

back in 2000. The property

move to other varieties. There

provided plenty of holiday work,

are so many Pinots now, as well

while she was studying at Otago

as what are new varieties to me

University. And her younger sister

which I am coming to learn about.

has just completed a degree in

The wine industry is incredibly

Oenology and Winemaking at

vibrant, it’s dynamic and fun. That

Lincoln.

Emily takes on her new role following a career in nutrition. She undertook a Bachelor of Science and Human Nutrition at Otago, going on to complete her Masters in Nutrition in 2007.

From Otago to Italy, where, Jonathon (her now husband) was playing professional rugby, based in the foodie centre of the country, Parma. For eight months she taught English as a second language, during the day and fulfilled her passion for food and wine at night.

By 2008 she was back in New Zealand, working originally for the Auckland Regional Public Health Service, as a nutritionist. Then she moved to Vitaco Health, where her portfolios were the major brands of Healtheries and Balance

Sports Nutiriton. Within a short period of time she took on marketing assignments role Healtheries. She also wrote articles for magazines such as Healthy Food Guide and nutrition feature articles for NZ Rugby World. (Balance works with a number of high profile athletes and teams, including the Blues and Crusaders.)

has filtered into the whole region I think. Marlborough has a very relaxed lifestyle, but there is still a lot of stuff going on.”

Keen to get to grips with the entire process of the Marlborough wine industry, Emily has begun by visiting as many cellar doors as she can. To her that is one of the challenges that lies ahead.

“I am looking forward to meeting

The decision to come back to Marlborough wasn’t a hard one to make.

Emily says both her and Jonathon were keen to move away from Auckland.

“We wanted a change, and we also wanted to be somewhere with more space where we had more time to indulge in the things we love.”

Wine being among those things.

the people involved, and forging relationships. I guess the big challenge for me will be to not only form those relationships, but keep them going into the future.”

Emily replaces Kate Cameron, who left Wine Marlborough late last year to take up a position at New Zealand Vineyards Estates.

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Wine Festival 2013

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Ensuring Vintage Vehicles are Compliant TESSA NICHOLSON

Keep doing what you have done in the past and make sure you secure your load. Those were two of the messages to come out of a harvest vehicle compliance seminar.

The local Commercial Vehicle’s Senior Constable, Doug Jackson, was inundated with questions during the Wine Marlborough organised session, held at Rose Ag last month. Harvester owners, drivers of trucks, and contractors in general were keen to find out the finer details of compliance, prior to vintage starting.

Doug said the major questions related to any potential changes that may affect

Senior Constable Doug Jackson at the recent Harvester Compliance afternoon.

them.

roads, as truck and trailers carry fruit to

it gets to the winery, it can also save the

“The currency of everything they have

wineries, is an issue that does require

driver being fined for an insecure load

done, every year, is still the same, so

monitoring. It is an on-going problem,

– which is $600. If it goes through the

what they did last year they should be

ranging from minor leaks of juice, to full

court system, Doug said, the result could

doing this year.”

out slopping of large quantities of fruit.

be a $2000 fine and disqualification

Doug says there are normally not too

“What we are trying to do is to encourage

from driving. And there is a chain of

many issues in the region, despite the

drivers to cover the load and allow

responsibility when it comes to a spill

large number of harvesters and gondolas

splash back so if the vehicle has to

on the road. He says it can go back to

appearing on Marlborough roads during

brake suddenly, it’s not going to end up

the person who loaded the fruit from the

March and April

dumping large quantities of fruit on the

gondola to the truck, right through to the

“The only complaints we tend to get are

road.”

driver.

vehicles backed up against each other.

If there is a spillage, it is the driver’s

“So each one in the process could be

You get a harvester, two tractors and

responsibility to notify someone to

prosecuted.”

gondolas and they are close together,

arrange clean up, not to just drive off.

A number of companies that bring trucks

which means travelling vehicles have to

“That has been an issue in the past.

in for the vintage period, are already

pass all three in a row. What I am trying to

Usually in the beginning of the season

insisting that all trucks coming into the

get them to do, is leave a hundred metres

things are fine, but as time goes on,

region for fruit delivery, must have covers.

between each vehicle, allowing traffic to

things like seals start to get worn, so

“So they are imposing their own set of

pass between them.”

people need to be aware of that.”

rules on the guys who are bringing trucks

However the issue of spillage on the

Covering not only protects the fruit until

in, which is a really good thing.”

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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

Compliance Update BRENDA POTTINGER - MDC ENVIROMENTAL PROTECTION

Harvest 2013 is now upon the industry and with it comes inspections of winery waste systems by Council’s Compliance Group.

As in the past, during the peak harvest period inspections will be made to each winery and their disposal area(s) to monitor for environmental effects from the discharge of wastewater and grape marc to land. In addition to the annual inspections, regular ongoing monitoring visits are planned to some disposal areas.

For the discharge of wastewater to land, this season will focus on greater education about the criteria required for consent conditions and Wairau/Awatere Resource Management Plan (WARMP) rule standards. This is to ensure accurate data is captured to assess compliance, particularly records for daily discharge volumes for the non vintage and vintage periods and the size of disposal areas actually receiving wastewater.

Information and data collected during site visits will help wineries and the Compliance Group identify whether winery wastewater is having adverse effects on the soil or plant species to which the wastewater is discharged to (e.g., soil cracking, slime on soil surface, ponding, odour, plant poor growth or death). Regular contact with winery staff will help facilitate improvements to areas that may have historical issues (e.g., ponding) and reinforce the importance of managing the discharge of wastewater to land.

For the discharge of grape marc to land, approximately 50% of wineries compost, stockpile or discharge grape marc

directly to land and are monitored under WARMP rules 30.1.8.9 and 10 or resource consent. For those wineries that have their grape marc transported offsite for stock feed or stockpiling, no monitoring is currently being undertaken. As such, it is not known what, if any, environmental impact grape marc is having on soil structure, soil health or water quality.

Grape marc transported off site will be an area of focus for monitoring this year.

Some viticulturists and farmers have contacted the Compliance Group for advice regarding site suitability for stockpiling or composting grape marc.

Site visits have been organised in which photographs of the proposed area are taken and details of the operation (e.g., soil type, composting versus stockpiling, distance to any waterbody or aquifer and proximity to neighbours) are reviewed.

Information gained from the site visit is then reviewed with other Council staff.

If no potential environmental effects are identified, then the composting or stockpiling can be undertaken as a permitted activity with monitoring of the site occurring. If potential environmental effects are identified, the operation may require resource consent.

The traffic light system introduced last year for determining whether a winery operation is in compliance with its consent conditions or permitted activity standards will be used again this season.

This system assesses conditions as green (compliant and no action is

Grape marc disposal – an area to be monitored. required), amber (minor non-compliance and some corrective actions are needed), and red (non-compliance and significant remedial actions required).

Industry has responded positively to the traffic light system as it allows wineries the opportunity to remediate inadvertent breaches and improve operations of the waste systems. It also allows the Compliance Group the opportunity to provide further education.

It is anticipated that the increased contact with wineries will lead to greater understanding of the requirements for the discharge of wastewater and grape marc to land, which should result in more wineries being fully compliant. More importantly, environmental impacts will be identified and remediation actions can be implemented early.

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

3/2013 WINEPRESS

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Not Everyone is Negative The recent comments from Australian winemakers about New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc being the McDonalds of wine, is not reciprocated by others in the industry.

Given the amount of publicity those

from the Loire Valley and from Bordeaux.

style, so it was no particular hardship to

comments made in early February – it

The Loire version is tight, subtle, citrus-

taste and drink quite a lot of it during my

seemed appropriate to get others

dominated and mineral. The Bordeaux

stay. Also, if you taste a lot, you start to

opinions. The following are extracts from

version was slightly riper and richer

pick out the salient differences between

well-respected wine industry personnel,

because of climate, and in part to being

them. I was particularly able to get that

regarding their take on Marlborough

blended with Semillon and/or fermented

impression during the Wine Marlborough

Sauvignon Blanc.

in barrels.

Regional Selection tastings, when there

The Marlborough version is very different.

were samples from most producers in

The wines have powerful and complex

the region and it was easy to compare

aromatics, ripe passion fruit and lime,

and contrast the different styles. One

combined with varying levels of green

thing that seemed quite common

— from grass to jalapenos to asparagus.

amongst a lot of quality wine producers

The high acidities give them an incredible

in the region was a movement towards

vibrancy on the palate. Acidities are

including a proportion of old oak-matured

so high sometimes that much like the

wine and a percentage of wild ferment

Germans do with their Riesling, some

in the blend, adding a bit of weight and

winemakers leave residual sugar in the

complexity to the classic zesty style.

wine to balance the acidity. Back at the

There was also a noticeable trend

turn of this century, when it could be

towards making a Fumé Blanc style,

argued that “bigger was better” and

along the lines of Cloudy Bay’s Te Koko

“delicate and subtle” were not big selling

or Dog Point’s Section 94. Again, this

points on a wine, these supercharged

requires old oak and wild ferment,

Sauvignon Blancs hit the mark.

but ferment in barrel and long, slow

Tim Atkin MW had this to say in an article last November.

And what of the wines themselves? Well, if you want to taste them, you’ll have to be prepared to put your hand in your pocket.

New Zealand wines generally have some of the highest average prices points in the UK, and Marlborough is no exception.

At the cheaper end, Montana and Villa Maria have done a good job of producing sub-£10 wines at retail prices, but many of the top Sauvignons, Pinot Noirs and Rieslings will cost you considerably more than that. Most of the time, they are worth the money, however, and in such a young region there’s very much a sense that the best is still to come. In 39 years,

And Kat Wiggins the Wine Marlborough

Marlborough has achieved more than

NZ-UK Link John Avery Scholarship

most wine regions do in a hundred.

winner had no mention of a single

Bill Zacharkiw, a Canadian who judged at last year’s Air New Zealand Wine Awards was equally complimentary in an article printed in the Montreal Gazette What was so different about their Sauvignon? The two dominant styles of Sauvignon Blanc up to that point were

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hamburger in her recent article.

There are also 50 shades of Sauvignon Blanc! A couple of my colleagues suggested that after three weeks in Marlborough I would be Sauvignonoverdosed and desperate for something red and lacking in acidity. Fortunately, I really enjoy Marlborough Sauvignon as a

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

fermentation at that. Rich, rounded, weighty, with softer peach and smoke characters, these wines were markedly different from their stainless steel fermented siblings.

I guess these comments prove the fact that all criticism is subjective.

Wine Happenings A monthly list of events within the Marlborough wine industry.

To have your event included in next month’s calendar please email details to tessa.nicholson@me.com MARCH 15 16 20 – 22 24 – 26

Framingham 2013 Harvest Concert – Framingham Winery Courtyard 6.30pm – 11pm Havelock Mussel Festival; South Island Agricultural Field Days - Lincoln ProWein International Wine Fair – Dusseldork Germany

APRIL 7 – 10 12-13

Vinitaly – Verona, Italy.

Marlborough/Nelson Primary Industry Sector Conference, “Innovation and Collaboration”– Rutherford Hotel - Nelson

MAY 11 28 – 31

Saint Clair Vineyard Half Marathon. Details at www. vineyardhalf.com International Cool Climate Wineshow – Victoria, Australia

Duncannon

Quality workers for Seasonal jobs

JUNE 11 16 – 20 18 – 20 28 – 30

JULY 26

NZW South Island Grape Day – Convention Centre, Blenheim Vinexpo – Bordeaux France Spieglau International Wine Competition – Blenheim Good Food and Wine Show Sydney – NZW participation

Moore Stephens Markhams Marlborough Young Viticulturist of the Year 2013

AUGUST 27 Chardonnay – Ripe for a reboot – Marlborough Vintners Hotel, Blenheim. Details at www.nzsvo.org. nz 28 – 30 Romeo Bragato Conference. Convention Centre, Blenheim

Staff Need Accommodation?

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Quality of service, quality of facilities and quality of experience!

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NOVEMBER 1–3 Marlborough Wine weekend – Details to be confirmed

Contact Duncannon Reception: p. 578 8193 | e. info@duncannon.co.nz

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

3/2013 WINEPRESS

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27

News From Home and Away Primary Sector Conference

old Bankhouse Station, now known as

Chilean Needlegrass

The Marlborough/Nelson Primary Sector

Ara, with at least half of the race being

Last month Winepress discussed the

Conference is being held in Nelson next

among the vines. (Besides Ara, the

problems of Chilean needlegrass and

month, with the theme being Innovation

horses were put through their paces in

how to prevent it’s spread throughout

and Collaboration. Spokesperson from

Dominic Pecchenino’s and Greg Cliffords

the province. We have had a number of

MPI, Nick Dalgety says the conference

vineyards. Spokesperson Heidi Bulfin

enquiries wondering how to identify the

will be of interest to the wine industry,

said it is the first time a major South

grass itself. These photos were provided

given there are visits to three Nelson

Island event has used so much vineyard

by the MDC.

based wineries; Peter Yealands will

in the ride. “The response was very

discuss his company’s leading edge

psoitive from the riders, who stated that

sustainability practices in the winery,

the vineyard bits were the best; long,

vineyard and market, and Philip Gregan

wide and flat with plenty of grass cover.”

will end the conference speaking

Sounds like an idyllic event, maybe

on the importance of innovation and

one that could be repeated on an even

collaboration for New Zealand’s future

grander scale.

exports. The conference, from April 12 – 13, will be held at the Rutherford Hotel in Nelson.

Accolades Sydney International Top 100 Trophy Winners

Endurance Through Vineyards

Best Sparkling Wine - Daniel Le Brun

We have had marathons and walks

Blanc de Blanc 2002

through vineyards, but recently, maybe

Best Aromatic Wine - Giesen Wines

for the first time ever, a horse endurance

Marlborough Riesling 2012

race made the most of the beauty of

Best Pinot Noir Wine - Yealands Estate

Marlborough’s vines. The South Island

Reserve Pinot Noir 2011

endurance and Trail Champs were

Best Sauvignon Blanc Wine -

held mid February. The course for

Framingham Wines Sauvignon Blanc

those competing was run out of the

2012

Winery Exchange - 2013 Harvest Name, Email and Contact Number Company Name Trevor Diamond con.dia@xtra.co.nz 035779719 021 1609506 Tom Trolove, tom@framingham.co.nz, 021955668 Tom Trolove, tom@framingham.co.nz, 021955668 Alan Holdaway Ph 578 7137 holdaway@xtra.co.nz

Blue Diamond Vineyard

Grapes wanted for Vintage 2013 and tonnes sought Pinot Gris approx 42 tonnes for sale

Indicate if required from Cloudy or Finished Wine any sub region for sale Any

Framingham Wines 100T of white winemaking space available for 2013 vintage N/A

N/A

Framingham Wines Pinot Gris (10 tonnes)

N/A

Lowlands Wines

Marlborough

200,000 L Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Lower Wariau / Dillons Pt

Disclaimer: The views and articles that are expressed and appear in Winepress are those entirely those of contributors and in no way reflect the policy of the Marlborough Winegrowers. Any advice given, implied or suggested should be considered on its merits, and no responsibility can be taken for problems arising from the use of such information.

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3/2013 WINEPRESS

The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough

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In the earlier part of the season, there tends to be low transpiration and cool soil temperatures, therefore limiting th In theuptake earlierof part of the season, to Nitrogen be low transpiration coolvine soilgrowth temperatures, limiting Nitrogen appliedthere earlytends spring. required to and sustain to abouttherefore the 4-5 leaf stagethe is uptake of Nitrogen applied early spring.

Nitrogen required to sustain vine growth to about the 4-5 leaf stage is thought to be provided largely from reserves stored in the vine from the previous season thought to be provided reserves stored in theisvine fromits thecarbohydrate previous season Immediately postlargely harvest,from the vines major concern to build reserves within the plant Immediately harvest, the vines major concern is to build its carbohydrate reserves within the plant structurepost for the following spring structure for theis following spring Nitrogen a key macro-nutrient important for such functions as: Plant growth, carbohydrate production, Nitrogen is a key macro-nutrient important for such functions Plantfruit growth, production, photosynthesis and chlorophyll production, promotion ofas: strong buds,carbohydrate and good flavour and aroma photosynthesis and chlorophyll production, promotion of strong fruit buds, and good flavour and aroma compounds in the wine. compounds in the wine.

Work in Marlborough would suggest that a 10 Tonne/ha crop of Sauvignon Blanc removes approx 7kgs Workelemental in Marlborough would that a 10 Tonne/ha of Sauvignon Blanc removes approxthis 7kgs Nitrogen (fruitsuggest only). Therefore applying crop approx 15 L-20L/ha Ezy-N is replacing N removal elemental Nitrogen (fruit only).

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