Editors’ Note “What you’ve done becomes the judge of what you’re going to do – especially in other people’s minds. When you’re traveling, you are what you are right there and then. People don’t have your past to hold against you. No yesterdays on the road.” – William Least Heat Moon
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Contents Editor’s Note p.01
Welcome To TURKEY p.08-25
Welcome To TAIWAN p.26-47
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My Mom Said: p.48-79
Contributors &Credits p.80-81
References p.82
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WELCOME TO TURKEY
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ZEYNEP TOSUN, KNOW WHO SHE IS? An Interview
Fashion Then & Now: TURKEY.
+Meet The First Turkish “it-girl”
p.10-11
p.12-17
The Artist Who Hears The Voices of The Walls p.18-23
Dear Reader Friends: by Elif. p.24-25
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Know Who She Is?
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Today, many famous celebrities from all around the world wear your indispensable pieces. How did you decide to be part of the fashion world?
by their own. We named our motto as: Let’s Rise It Together, in order to push Turkish people to take an action in terms of work.
I always wanted to be part of that glamorous world. I was curious about tailoring at a very young age. My grandmother was a tailor. I used to watch and help her. I even made my high school graduation dress with her. Design and fabrics have always been in my focus, after that, I started to pursue my dreams and establish Zeynep Tosun brand in 2010.
You have been doing collaborations with Koton(Turkish fast fashion brand). Are there any other future collaborations?
If we define the style code of Zeynep Tosun in three words, what can it be? Freedom, authenticity and fun. So how should people feel when they wear your designs? My motto is freedom. I really love the pieces that reminds me of freedom. I really appreciate the creativity as well. Thus, my client should feel free. Zeynep Tosun 2018 SS Couture came into life with “LET’S RISE IT TOGETHER” motto and at the end we came across with super cool pieces. How did you came up with this motto? Can you tell the collection’s story? Since I launched my brand, I had many women colleagues from Istanbul to Anatolia. So, this year I thought that they can be a good source of inspiration for my collection. While preparing, I also realized that I was one of them. I mean, my inspirations are Turkish women who have their own story and gain strength
We had two beautiful seasonal collections with Koton. I think our similar chemistry and DNA made us to create a good collection. We have been a super cool partners that complement each other. Let’s see what will happenwww later. Before we finish our interview, we are looking forward fora style tip from you. By choosing Zeynep Tosun for Koton, we can be the most dynamic and stylish name in the party or event. But we should select the right dress otherwise we can turn into Cinderella after midnight. How can we achieve a good look? Can you give some advise? Dressing is a form of expression. Especially in such special moments. It is very important to choose the design that will best reflect your soul and body. No matter how perfect a dress or body is, the important thing is that the person should feel good. It’s not just about the design you’re wearing, the important thing is also the right styling. The colour, form of the dress you choose should also suit you. We believe that all designs in Zeynep Tosun for Koton Collection will find the right souls this year. For this season, we have prepared a collection that stands out with colors, patterns and fabrics. 11
Fashion Then & Now: TURKEY.
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Fashion scene saw many looks but no look was like the Ottomans.Let’s sit back and follow our lines that are all about the mixture of brief Ottoman and Turkish fashion history. So, tie your belts and we are taking you into the past times! READY? GO!
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Welcome to our first stop: B.C. 2.000. You can see lots of casual wear that are made of leather. They used lots of leather because of their needs for nomadic life and animal husbandry. The old Turks, which means strong and mighty, wore“şalvar”(harempants), “cepken”( we can say that the ancestor of blazer) and long boots that were made of leather or mat. Women used to wear“yaşmak” (niqab worn by some Muslim women to cover their faces in public). After a while, people started to settle in one place so the clothes were made with fabric. Now, welcome to the 15th century’s Ottoman palace adorned with flower gardens and fountains. In that time Ottoman Palace had a huge effect on the fashion industry. People from Istanbul preferred glamorous and expensive clothes. However, Anatolians used to dress more simple. At the 16th century when the Ottoman Empire reached a peak of economic and political power. So, the textile industry witnessed a boom. Therefore, it was the time for the sultans not except nothing but less than luxurious “kaftans”. “Kaftan” is often worn as a coat or as an overdress with long sleeves, it usually reaches to the ankles. For everyday wear, women chose to wear şalvar (trousers), chemise that came down to the ankle, fitted jacket called zıbın, and a belt tied at or just below the waist. They had formal or special occasions of course. Therefore, they preferred to add more sparkle than ever with an “entari” or “kaftan”, which are a long robes that was cut like “zıbın” apart from the length. They were both buttoned to the waist, leaving the skirts open in front. All of these clothes could be brightly colored and patterned. Women embellished their feet with “nalın”(wooden high heels). At that time the last touches were covering the face with a 14
niqab ,which is a pair of veils called “peçe” in Turkish, and wearing “çarşaf”(hijab) which was a loose over-garment essentially a robe-like dress. Therefore, they were all in dark and had to see the world from their dark nijab. Women had no rights and had to see the world behind their dark clothing piece. When Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, who was the founder of the Republic of Turkey, touched the people’s life in a magical way and reforms began to appear. Turkey was established and everything started to change so the clothes. The modernization started to shine through the darkness. The new and modern time just knocked the door for Turks, with the leadership of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, so the clothing and hat reform had begun. The bells were ringing for the change in fashion and perception. These reforms erased the word “çarşaf”and “peçe” in the fashion encylopedia. The coat, scarf and shawl started to enter women’s wardrobes. The clothing revolution was also inevitable for the men who started to began to wear hats, jackets, shirts and ties. In 1920s, we can see the touches of West in the Turkish fashion. Still we witness impression the style of Western people.By the help of social media, people can easily access the trends and styles can be easily followed. So Turkish people follow the trends a lot right now. Before finishing the time travel of fashion, we want to point out a cliche about wearing hijab. If you go to Turkey, you can come cross people with hijab and without. That choice of clothing varies from city to city even street to street. So next time, when you meet a Turkish person without hijab, don’t worry it is typical. Don’t believe in cliches and not try to generalize. It is time to take out horse glasses and see the world clearly. 15
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Meet The First Turkish “it-girl” You can’t think about Italy without Sophia Loren as you can’t figure out Turkey without Türkan Şoray who is the most famous actress ever in 70s. She is not only the icon for the golden age in cinematography but also a beauty icon. Her contribution to the cinema is priceless that’s why she was called as Sultan( the same meaning as Princess in Turkish culture). She played many different characters and tried many styles throughout her life. For instance, in one of her movies named Sultan(the character’s name was Sultan, not talking about her nickname now) she played as a woman from rural areas, wearing traditional Turkish clothes. Her “yemeni”( kerchief) and her patterned dress is the most classic look in the movie. Her floral patterned dress is also an example of traditional Turkish fashion. But after the shootings, we always saw her in a casual style. Her signature pieces were striped blouses and shirts combined with hoop earrings and the sunglasses worn like a hairband. She is the most beautiful example that reflects a typical Turkish beauty. Also, her iconic style reflects 70’s fashion style in Turkey. She preferred glamorous diamond earrings rather than hoop earrings while she was going to a special event(although she didn’t needed those glamorous things as people were hypnotized by her gorgeous beauty). Her fluffy and wavy hair accompanied her style and with the help of the make up, she emphasized her big eyes and juicy lips. She used to put on lots of mascara and eyeliner in order to have a dramatic look. Today, we can see her photocopies yet she is still the only one.
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Trojan Horse, 1978.
The Artist Who Hears the Voices of the Walls Once upon a time, there was a little boy whose name was Burhan Doğançay, born in 1929 in İstanbul, Turkey. His real story began with his passion for art. So, as you can imagine this is not a typical love story but wait, kind of, actually. This is a story of an art lover but not “that” kind of art lover. So, who was he? He was an unconventional artist who received a Law Degree from the University of Ankara. After a while, he moved to Paris, where he studied Economics and obtained a PhD. So, where was the art part in his life? Art was always with him. Ooops, forgot to explain what kind of art he was into. He was a photographer, painter and graphic designer. He learned everything, in terms of art not life, from his father who didn’t wanted his son to be an artist. But this didn’t prevent him from spending his time in the company of local artists and attended art classes at the Académie de la Grande Chaumière. Our protagonist ended up being one of the most important figure in Turkish art in terms of collage, photography and painting.
Let’s know him more and more, deeper and deeper. The boy from İstanbul was best known for tracking walls in various cities across the world for half a century. Dogançay had been fascinated by urban walls and chose them as his subjects. He said that “The walls are the archives of the period we live in. Also, when we look at the walls of a city, we can have an idea about the society. Therefore, the walls are the reflection of a society.” He took pictures of 120 country’s city walls. His “Mavi Senfoni” picture was sold for 2 million TL. By selling his indispensable work for 2 million TL, he became the artist whose work was sold with the highest price when he was alive. What else, he was also famous for its collage works. We can see the effects of Neo-Dadaism in the collage style of his works. His works was exhibited in many museums from all around world. One of his famous collage is the Cheerful Ribbons that is an example of an abstract expressionism, it was that kind of unique in 50s. He used to work at least 10 hours a day but he also invested his time on many other things like literature, music, theatre and football. The last but not the least, he contributed a lot in his 73 years of life. The most notables ones are New York Subway Walls (1967–2002), Blue Walls of New York (1998–2004), and Alexander’s Walls (1995–2000).
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Ribbons and Collage, 1987.
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Dear Reader Friends, I was so stressful that I wanted to escape from the world. I had no budget to go to the Moon but I found a place even better: the fairy’s city. The city with lots of balloons, the city with fairy chimneys. It was Cappadocia which made me think that I was no longer on Earth. I felt that I discovered a new world. The day I landed that dreamy city, I planned to see all these fairy chimneys from the ballon which is as colorful as my dreams. I couldn’t get into the balloon because of the weather conditions. Instead, I had a Turkish breakfast. Honey, “gözleme”, traditional breads, lots of Turkish tea,”pişi”, olives, and “kaymak” was calling for me. So I went to Uçhisar to have a breakfast with the view of fairy chimneys. While I was having my breakfast, I regretted that I should have gone to Cappadocia in spring because I learned that you can come across harsh weather conditions in summer and winter. Also, my chances to get into the ballon increases in may and june since a windy weather can destroy your magical adventure. After facing with the reality, I ended up in the Derinkuyu underground cave that extends to a depth of approximately 60 meters which means that it is the largest excavated underground complexes found across 24
Cappadocia. It was very enjoyable but for a second I thought that I would never manage to get into the surface. Then, I though that I was safe because I felt that the cave protected me from the world’s negativity. I was full of the ideas as this old cave inspired me a lot. I tried to figure out the times when people used to shelter in this cave. Suddenly, I realized that I was at the last step and I got out the cave like the bird who was getting out of his cage. The cage that inspired me a lot but the cage that I was looking forward to go out. I put lots of information into my pocket. The most important ones are the city’s moon-esque landscape where rock formations are the result of volcanic activity, underground cities worthy of the UNESCO’s World Heritage List, and cave churches dating back to the 4th century BC. My last destination was to go to Asmalı Konak which is a big historical house. The popular Turkish soup opera was shot there. I felt that I was the protagonist of Asmalı Konak. Suddenly my dreams faded as it was time to go back home. Can’t wait to go back Cappadocia since this protogist is waiting for getting into the ballon and experience these feelings again.
Yours,
Elif 25
WELCOME TO TAIWAN
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ANGUS CHIANG, Proudly Made in TAIWAN p.28-31
The Artist Who Reads The Symbol of Paintings p.42-45
Fashion Then & Now: TAIWAN. p.32-41
Dear Reader Friends: by Winnie. p.46-47
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Angus Chiang, Proudly Made In TAIWAN.
How do you define culture in fashion? Taiwan born and raised fashion designer, Angus Chiang said: “It’s what I see, feel and acknowledge of the daily life of Taiwanese.” Taiwanese culture is always the key DNA of Chiang’s Brand - ANGUS CHIANG. He plays with colors in an interesting design style and shares his memories, showing his passion and love for Taiwan through every collection at his show. “I’m working hard to make Taiwan seen by the world. Having the ability to draw awareness for the country I love is a wonderful thing and it makes me proud.” said Chiang in an interview. When asked where he got his inspirations for his collections, Chiang said he likes to go where Taiwanese usually go. For example, he went to the fabric market near Taipei Dadaocheng Xiahai Chenghuang Temple and got the inspiration from the temples; he went to Eslite bookstore,
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the famous bookstore in Taiwan, and got inspired by Taiwanese photographer Shen Chao Liang’s photography collection “STAGE”, a photography collection of Taiwanese Vaudeville Troupes captured under the photographer’s lenses. Typical daily lives in Taiwan are transformed, combined into a new concept in his design and shared to the world by his keen observation. “Designing collections has already become my intimate way of recording my life,” Chiang said. Our personal favorite collection? It is the AW17 collection, in which he took inspirations from Taiwanese uniforms, workbooks and stationeries. Workbook graphic designed sweatshirts, denim suits and plastic stationeries made into earrings bring back so many memories! Not to mention the bubble teas models carried during the catwalk and gave to the audiences at the show, those mouth-watering bubble tea! I would love to have one right now. Even though there are new brands rising every year, Chiang has his 30
unique strategy to keep his head. He said: “My colleagues say it’s strangeness, but I like to think it as a unique sense of aesthetic. We use elements from Taiwanese culture to create a new aesthetic, transforming those daily things Taiwanese consider boring into something interesting, hoping to make it special.” Chiang’s designs are mostly gender-neutral, communicating with both men and women. Besides his collection, Chiang uses different media to introduce Taiwan: hiring local music bands to perform during the shows, collaborating with local artist John Yuyi, traditional pastry brand PineAppleHill, bubble tea brand Chatime. He made a lot of effort to bring his country to the world. In the future, Chiang is planning to lead his brand into a creative studio, where he will not only focus on fashion but also build a platform to combine and discover different talented Taiwanese artists and musicians to enter the international market.
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Fashion Then & Now: TAIWAN.
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HAN DYNASTY (221BC~220AD) Due to the development of embroidery and silk industry, hand made silk and satin one-piece clothes are common in Han Dynasty. The most famous and iconic skirt is the Liuxian skirt, worn by the queen of the Western Han Dynasty, Zhao Feiyan (one of the Four Beauties of ancient China). In history, Zhao Feiyan was so skinny that she could dance on the emperor’s palm, so envy!
WEI AND JIN DYNASTIES(220~420AD) Maintain the basic forms of the Han Dynasty, but they had their special features in terms of style: long and loose Ru(jacket), Qun(skirt) and Ku (trouser). The colors of purple, red and green are mostly seen. The outfit style of Wei and Jin Dynasties effected the traditional clothing a lot and set the foundation for the following dynasties.
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THE SOUTHERN AND NORTHERN DYNASTIES(220~589AD) Costume in the Southern Dynasty were mainly short jackets and skirts, while robes and sleeveless jackets were also included. By and large, the dressing style of the Southern Dynasty inherited the Wei and Jin periods. While in the Northern Dynasty, Informal dresses and military uniforms mainly included trousers. Ordinary women always wore short jackets and coats.
THE LATE SOUTHERN AND NORTHERN DYNASTIES(420~589AD) Ethnic minorities entered China from the north. During this era, clothing style became a mixture of Southern and Northern apparel aesthetics: skirts are simpler and pleated.
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SUI DYNASTY (581~618AD) Short version of Ruqun is the majority with high waist silk belts as an embellishment, making silhouettes slimmer and elegant. The color yellow can only be worn by the emperor since it’s the closest color to the color gold. Koreans took inspiration from Sui Dynasty and redesigned it into their traditional clothing, Hanbok. Sui Dynasty’s clothing style is one of our favorites.
TANG DYNASTY (618~907AD) Short version of Ruqun is still the majority as seen in Sui Dynasty while masculine clothing design is one of the special characteristics and difference in Tang Dynasty. The combining of Persian and Indian elements into the traditional clothing is the trend due to the permission of port trading brought prosperity and cultural exchanges. Tang Dynasty’s clothing style is our most favorite among all dynasties and inspired Japanese traditional Kimono.
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SONG DYNASTY (960~1279AD) Preserved Han Chinese clothing style. At the late stage of Song Dynasty, the clothes are combined again (like they did in the late Southern and Northern Dynasties) with ethnic minorities from the north but this time, with more Han Chinese elements. Song, Sui and Tang Dynastys’ clothing style are the three dynasties we love the most.
MID-LATE TANG DYNASTY (763~907AD) The clothing style became more loose than before. Yang Guifei, also one of the Four Beauties of ancient China, mostly worn this style during that period of time. People are more open-minded and women tend to reveal their skin more than usual, more than before.
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Y UA N DY NA S T Y (1271~1368AD) China falls under Mongol’s rule. Tight sleeves and shorter skirts with long tops are mostly seen in the Yuan Dynasty, while Bijian and Bijia are also seen commonly in daily wears. Bijian, is a kind of leather jacket that is slightly longer than the top; Bijia is a kind of outfit for horseback riding and archery that is short in front, long at the back and have no sleeves nor collars.
QING DYNASTY (1644~1911AD) China is conquered by the Manchurians. Manchu traditional clothing style is the majority: Magua and Cheongsam (later known as Qipao) are the main clothing. Magua, is the jacket that covers the Cheongsam and is widely made in different fabrics.Cheongsams in the early period were inlaid with a welt of about 1 inch wide. The real cheongsams at that time were wide and fat, convenient for wearing in hunting. Later cheongsams for males were developed into long gowns, while those for females became more close-fitting and the welt was removed.
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MING DYNASTY (1368~1644AD) Yuan customs are abolished. The outstanding feature was that the buttons on the forepart replaced the band knots in use for several thousand years.(Which is a pity in our opinion since the band knots were so pretty!) Compared with the costume of the Tang Dynasty, the proportion of the upper outer garment to lower skirt in the Ming Dynasty was significantly inverted. Skirt color was inclined to be light. Skirt pleats, including dense pleats and big pleats, became very popular. People are divided into classes. Civilians are only allowed to wear purple, fuchsia and green; while workers are only allowed to wear brown.
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THE REPUBLIC OF CHINA (1911~1920S AD) By the time of the Republic of China, Cheongsams had restyled into long skirts fitting to the figure. And, short Cheongsams emerged during this period. After the founding of the People’s Republic of China, Manchu costume became the same as the Han’s.
THE REPUBLIC OF CHINA (1930S~1940S AD/ 1940S~1960S AD) Cheongsam(Qipao) is further westernized, tailored to flatter body shape. The iconic ‘Shanghai style’ in the 40s is mostly known.
21ST CENTURY Modernized Cheongsam(Qipao) with more varieties of design, mostly worn in weddings and other special occassions. 40
photographed by Chen Wei Ni
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寧靜安住 A Tranquil and Serene Life, 2003.
There is a boy who was born in Tainan, Taiwan, whose name is Kuo Borjou. His real story began when he went to New York to study his master in fine arts in The City University of New York, but before we take you to that part, let’s take a quick look of his life before he went to New York City. His father was an art teacher, thus, under the nurturing of his father, his passion for art grew and started to draw at a very young age. After he graduated from National Taiwan Normal University, he enrolled at The City University of New York, where his real story started. It was New York where he started to read symbols and combined them into his artworks; it was also New York where he met Robert Rauschenberg, the American painter and graphic artist who was famous for combining non-traditional materials and objects into his works. What? You mean Kuo met Rauschenberg in person? Ha, got you! Kuo met Rauschenberg’s artworks in the museums at New York, he fell in love with his artworks and got inspired by them. Since then, montage and collage art style was often seen in Kuo’s works; he recklessly combined different forms of art, colors, a n d graphics from different periods of time. Besides Rauschenberg, Kuo was also inspired by postmodernism and the idea of globalization. He believes that there is just a fine line between globalization and localization. Just as the moon has two sides, Kuo considers them as the same thing but with different sides. So, when he went back to Taiwan. He started to combine traditional elements of Taiwan into his artworks, creating his own unique aesthetic which east meets west. His group of incomprehensible images cooperates each other into a dynamic harmony, like passionate poetries filled with rich images and timeless feelings. In The Hidden Garden of Taiwan, a series of works painted on round canvas. Kuo combined calligraphy, traditional floral prints with color blocks. The strong contrast between the use of colors and pattern made the collage bold, bright but elegant at the same time: creating an inexplicable, unspeakable and eye-pleasing atmosphere that was unique among other artists. 43
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Dear Reader Friends, How are you? It’s been a long time since I wrote to you, I’ve been so busy. There’s so much that I want to catch up with you, let’s take a day off and meet outside! What do you think? We can go to Fuhang Soy Milk(阜杭豆 漿), our favorite place for having a traditional Taiwanese breakfast, and order our favorite dòujiāng ( 豆漿; soy milk), yóutiáo (油條; fried bread stick), dàn bing (蛋餅; spring onion–filled crepes and egg) and shāobing (燒餅; stuffed layered flatbread). Hmmm..., let me think for a second if we want to avoid the long queues than we may need to arrive early. Then, we can go to the Huashan 1914 Creative Park(華山文創園 區) which is nearby. They have holiday markets, exhibitions, and many independent designer’s shops. I once bought a gashapon(vending machine-dispensed capsule toys) from a Taiwanese brand P.Seven that sells perfumes with Taiwanese scents! How was the fragrance? It was great! Since the machine sells only those niche scents, I felt exclusive and the feeling I’m the only one on earth that has this perfume. Don’t you have this kind of feeling whenever you find something unique?
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After shopping around Huashan, I know just the perfect place for lunch. We can take the MRT to Taipei Main Station(台北車站) and eat Liu Shandong Beef Noodles(劉山東牛肉麵). You know that their clear broth beef noodles are always my first choice. Eslite XinYi Store(誠品信義店) is my favorite place to spend the rest of the day, remember that time when we found a Taiwanese independent magazine that was introducing many local artists and poets? I wonder if they have released a new issue recently. Last but not the least, dinner! Pin Xian 100 NT Dollar Stir-Fries(品 鮮熱炒) near the MRT Liuzhangli Station(六張犁捷運站) was the place we celebrated your birthday a few years ago, let’s go there, shall we? And do you remember the web series Mr.Bartender? They shot the scenes at Self Lounge Bar(私室酒吧) which is just a few blocks away. I heard they make good cocktails and the bartenders are really friendly! Let’s go and have a drink after dinner.
Yours,
Winnie.
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MY MOM SAID: 48
DON’T PLAY WITH CLICHÉ p.50-65
HEY, GO CHANGE YOUR CLOTHES. p.66-79 49
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Contributors & Credits Giulia Buresti
Italian girl who fell in love with fashion since she was 8 years old. Her goal? Working for Chanel in the communication department. Loves traveling and learning from other countries. Graduated in Fashion Culture, moved to Florence in order to follow her passion.
Chen Wei Ni
Taiwanese girl who graduated in Communications Design in Taipei. Love traveling around the world and all kinds of graphic design that is related to fashion, from fashion magazines to brand catalogs. Came to Florence to pursue her dream: working for magazines as a editor or an art director.
Elifcan Sanli
Turkish girl who loves writing and believes in the magical world of fashion who have been contributing many magazines for 3 years. I never gave up my dream so that is the reason why you are holding our magazine. I always persuade my dreams and I will. Hope to experience new cultures without any stereotypes. Experience, enjoy, learn and be open to everything.
F-Mails Magazine Articles of Turkey all written by Elifcan Sanli, Articles of Taiwan all written by Chen Wei Ni, Collages all made by Chen Wei Ni.
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DON’T PL AY WITH CLICHÉ. Photographer: Giulia Buresti Styling: Chen Wei Ni Models: Giulia Buresti Chen Tzu Yu Chen Wei Ni Chiu Yi Qing Veronica Giol
HEY, GO CHANGE YOUR CLOTHES. Designer: Basie Yeh Instagram @basieyeh Model: Bee Bee Instagram @beegsleep Photographer: Puzzle Leong Instagram @puzzleung Makeup & Styling: Jiji Wu Instagram @l.h.wu
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