Princeton Magazine, May/June 2015 by Witherspoon Media Group

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CONTENTS

74 MAY/JUNE 2015

48 ..... HERE & THERE .....

..... FEATURES .....

VINTAGE PRINCETON

EVERYTHING PIA

BY LINDA ARNTZENIUS

Henry Arnold, Princeton’s Mr. Bike

The Dutch novelist Pia de Jong calls Princeton home

FASHION & DESIGN Bay Head Beach 34

A well-designed life

BIKING IN PRINCETON BY TAYLOR SMITH

Everything you need to know 18

ART SCENE BY LINDA ARNTZENIUS

HomeFront’s ArtSpace: A Creative Path to Self-Sufﬁciency 62

BOOK SCENE BY STUART MITCHNER

Reading the World 66

MARK YOUR CALENDAR 72

BAY HEAD: AN UNSPOILED SEASIDE TOWN BY GRETA CUYLER

How one Jersey Shore community has maintained its small-town roots and pristine beaches 28

JESSE MARSCH BY BILL ALDEN

The Red Bulls ﬁnd a new coach in Princeton 48

HOME AT LAST: HOMEFRONT’S “CAMPUS OF HOPE” BY ANNE LEVIN

Making dreams come true 56 ..... THE LAST WORD .....

RICHARD TANG YUK BY NANCY PLUM

ON THE COVER: Novelist Pia de Jong photographed by Benoit Cortet. Hair by Jenna Mathewson. Makeup by Christina Santiago | Nuvo Beauty Lounge.

Opera and Orchids: From piano lessons in the Caribbean to the Princeton Festival 74

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| FROM THE ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Photo by Andrew Wilkinson

Dear Princeton Readers and Advertisers, Get ready! Any day now, Princeton will be inundated by a sea of black and orange signaling the advent of Princeton University Reunions Weekend. Not long after, families from across the globe will flood Nassau Street to see their children graduate from one of the most prestigious universities in the world, Princeton University. Then the town settles down with its tried and true tigers—Princeton residents who shop and dine right here. It is clear that Princeton, New Jersey is a bustling hub for people near and far with a constant influx of movement and excitement filling the streets. Although Princeton is a destination town, it is also home to those who can’t get enough of its year-round beauty and charm. Rich in history, arts, and entertainment, Princeton is a multifaceted place, and people love to be a part of it.

If, however, you need to escape for a day or so, read our article about the Jersey Shore’s hidden treasure, Bay Head. Enjoy your read, and if you’re on the beach this summer and ﬁnd yourself missing Princeton, check out princetonmagazine.com, our Facebook page, or our newly launched Instagram account! Don’t forget to enter our contest for a complementary overnight stay at the exclusive Peacock Inn, in downtown Princeton. See page 64 for contest information. With warmest regards,

Robin Broomer Advertising Director

Photo by Charles R. Plohn

Princeton Magazine helps share the town’s story through our relationship with local businesses and artists, and I am excited to share this issue with you. Included are features on Pia de Jong, novelist and Dutch native now living in Princeton, Jesse Marsch, the NY Red Bulls Soccer coach and Princeton University graduate, the Founder of the Princeton Festival, and so much more.

Class of 2009 photo courtesy of Princeton University, Ofﬁce of Communications, Denise Applewhite. P-rade photo by Emily Reeves.

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I had at last arrived in my new American home — exhausted, homesick, and happy

EVERYTHING PIA

The Dutch Novelist Pia de Jong Calls Princeton Home By Linda Arntzenius | Photography by Benoit Cortet | Illustrations by Eliane Gerrits hair by jenna mathewson | makeup by christina santiago | nuvo beauty lounge

egular readers of Princeton Magazine will recognize Pia de Jong from a feature story that ran in 2013 shortly after the Dutch novelist and her family moved from Amsterdam to Princeton for her husband Robbert Dijkgraaf to take up his appointment as director of the Institute for Advanced Study. The focus of that first article was Robbert Dijkgraaf. This time around, it’s all Pia. Interviewed then, de Jong described plans to write in English and to work on a memoir of the year when her daughter was born. Now a healthy teen, Charlotte had myeloid leukemia and was not expected to survive infancy. Not only has de Jong held true to her promise, she’s developed in new and unexpected directions, most significantly as an interpreter of the American way of life for Dutch readers of her weekly column, Flessenpost (Notes in a Bottle) for the Amsterdam daily newspaper, NRC Handelsblad. If her column’s title suggests a castaway of sorts, that’s entirely appropriate. Feeling uprooted was the subject of one of de Jong’s first Princeton columns, in response to Superstorm Sandy. “I am a wife who traveled to a new country with my husband because of his job; it’s especially common in academia,” she tells me. “Some friends in Amsterdam wondered whether this was a wise move. I left my life behind for something unknown and new that had me wondering, where is Pia in all of this?” Uprooted-ness is an undercurrent in her work, one familiar to other émigré writers like Colm Tóibín and André Aciman.

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De Jong observes people and places and discovers aspects of the human comedy. Her subjects range from arriving in Princeton, differences between American and European life, observations on contemporary politics, political correctness, manners, mores and reflections on American individualism versus the Dutch focus on the common good. She’s written about Freeman Dyson; Lady Gaga; Jim McCloskey’s work in freeing innocent prisoners; an unnamed lady having difficulty paying for her prescription at the CVS pharmacy on Nassau Street; American dentistry; Martians landing at Grover’s Mill courtesy of Orson Welles; Mad Men; American festivities like Halloween and Norman Rockwell-style Christmas; Woody Allen’s visit to Princeton; even training a new puppy. She’s a keen interpreter of class and social convention. “The Dutch are always criticizing the United States and I hope to explain the different mentalities on both sides of the Atlantic,” she says. Although she can also be critical of what she sees, her reactions are so honest and authentic that it becomes impossible for any reader to feel alienated. On the contrary, she’s found that since America is a country of immigrants, her work resonates with readers. Asked whether she’s concerned about developing a persona in her columns, de Jong looks puzzled. Clearly what you see is what you get with this writer. Her voice is her own, authentically positive, grounded, and healthy. So far she’s had just one column shot down. She’d written about the American habit of having indoor cats declawed and her Amsterdam editor feared being inundated with letters from animal rights activists. But as for self-censorship, there’s

no subject de Jong regards as taboo, although she draws the line when it comes to her children’s privacy. “I’m not out to shock or expose and I don’t want to offend anyone. It touches me deeply when people say appreciative things. When they get it, when it works, it’s magic.” Delightfully illustrated by the Dutch cartoonist Eliane Gerrits, the columns can be very funny, as when de Jong writes about missing fresh-baked Dutch bread and Dutch cheese. Cheese of the kind that can’t readily be squeezed from a tube is “a threatened commodity” here, she has found. Her columns often kick off with some incident close to home and then spin out into the world at large, as when she falls on black ice on Super Bowl Sunday and ends up in the emergency room. The nurse’s subtle questioning as to the causes of her bruises leads to a discourse on American football and domestic abuse, involving the halftime show “commercial” in which a 911 woman caller orders pizza and hopes that the dispatcher will be quick enough to register the real reason for her call. De Jong’s writing can be poignant as in “Pieter and Bill,” the former a familiar figure on the streets near her home in Amsterdam and the latter a recognizable character from Princeton’s Nassau Street. De Jong had been thinking of using her own photographs to accompany her pieces until her editor suggested an illustrator. It’s a system that works well. The author sends Gerrits her column on Saturday night and a drawing is done by Sunday morning. Since her first Flessenpost in September 2012, de Jong has produced 130 straight columns in as many weeks. “Pia’s columns pack into 580 words an abundance of insight about Princeton and the people who live here; she is wise about the big issues and

observant about the little things that happen in the nooks and crannies of life,” says former People Magazine editor, Landon Jones, who has championed the newcomer, introducing her to “her tribe,” as he puts it. Shortly after de Jong arrived, Jones invited her to a book party he was hosting for Evan Thomas and his newly published biography, Ike’s Bluff: President Eisenhower’s Secret Battle to Save the World. Since then, Jones has been something of a sounding board for de Jong as she finds her voice in the English language. “Women in particular warm to her,” he says. “She’s not only devoted to her family and very supportive of her husband, she’s carving out her own way and women in particular relate to her personal take on things. If Pia can’t find herself in the story she won’t write about it.” “Lanny is equally as curious as I am,” says de Jong, “he was the first person who seemed to care about my columns which he read in translation via Google and he suggested I blog for the Huffington Post.” Jones is well-placed to give advice. After leaving People, he served as Time Inc’s Vice President for strategic planning until he retired in 2000. He’s also the author of three books: Great Expectations: America and the Baby Boom Generation (1980); The Essential Lewis and Clark (2000); and William Clark and the Shaping of the West (2004). As Jones points out, de Jong is quickly finding an audience on this side of the Atlantic. “It’s astonishing the way she has established herself in English—her fourth language—less than 3 years since she arrived, writing in the Washington Post, Huffington Post, and now fiction in Wild River Review and Antioch Review. She is very inquisitive,

The American Way of Cheese

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De Jong at Labyrinth Books on Nassau Street.

an astute observer and a wonderful columnist.” “She stands in a long tradition of European writers who have come to America and reported on what they find here,” says Jones, mentioning Alexis de Tocqueville and English writer Alistair Cooke’s beloved “Letter from America.” “A weekly columnist needs to be good company and Pia is,” he says. “Her writerly voice reminds me of Russell Baker and Joan Didion, full of irony and insight but also self-deprecating, and at times very funny. Not even Tocqueville or Baker took on Yoga Moms or Back-to-School Night, but Pia did.” Born in the Netherlands in 1961, de Jong met Dijkgraaf when she was 18 and he 19. They fell in love quickly and lived together for ten years before getting married in order to simplify visa requirements when Dijkgraaf came to the States in 1991, for a year as a member of the Institute for Advanced Study. They now have three children, Jurriaan, 18, Matthijs, 16, and Charlotte, 14.

De Jong’s father was a hydraulic engineer, not an unusual profession for a Dutchman, she laughs, given the country is for the most part below sea level. Her homemaker mother raised three kids, Pia sandwiched between an older brother who now works for Royal Dutch Shell, and a younger brother, an engineer working in Tanzania. She studied Dutch language and literature and trained as a psychologist. Dijkgraaf studied art and then went on to become a prominent mathematical physicist. The couple is readily recognized in the Netherlands where he appears regularly on television and she’s known as a leading voice in Dutch-language fiction. Lauded for communicating science to the public and for cultivating the next generation of young scientists, Dijkgraaf, as President of the Royal Netherlands Academy of the Arts and Sciences, brought scholars from a wide variety of disciplines together on important scientific and public policy

issues such as climate change. He too writes a column, albeit monthly, in the NRC Handelsblad. Becoming a Writer

Before coming to Princeton, de Jong had already earned a reputation as an emerging literary star, having written two prize-winning novels and two books for children. She began writing seriously after her daughter, who was born in 2000, became well. Charlotte was covered in tumors and the oncologist told the couple to prepare themselves. “This baby is going to die, he told us. It was a very stressful and strange event. I started to pack my bags and the oncologist said ‘What are you doing?’ Charlotte was just two weeks old. We had to sign a lot of papers but we took her home,” recalls de Jong. “I was a mother animal, breast-feeding, sleeping with my children, my external career was may/june 2015 PRINCETON MAGAZINE

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De Jong with her daughter Charlotte

En famille at Olden Farm with Robbert Dijkgraaf and their two sons and Nala, their golden retriever.

absent, Robbert helped me to keep out the external world, he was amazing, he cooked, he did what needed to be done in the home, he never questioned my intuition. We bonded tightly as a family at this time and, interestingly enough, Robbert did his best scientific work during this period. It’s an incredible story, telling it so briefly makes it sound easy but it was a very difficult time, especially as we didn’t know what the outcome would be. We expected Charlotte might die. We prepared for it. I quit my job. After about half a year of waiting and watching, we began to see a change. She became livelier and started growing. When she was a year old, she was recovered.” Charlotte’s recovery coincided with an almost manic energy for writing. De Jong had written poetry as a child and even announced to her parents that she was going to be a writer, but this was a shift into high gear. “There is a name for this; it’s called the midnight disease. After Charlotte got well, life opened up; I couldn’t go back to my old

job, I had to reinvent my world. Writing saved me. I wrote poems. I was working with my heart. Even so I had no idea of being a writer.”

Freeman Dyson

Writing Process

She wrote at night time after falling asleep with all her children together in one bed. “We’d go to bed between seven and eight, I’d read them stories and we’d fall asleep. Robbert would join us when he came home and then I’d get up between two and three in the morning and write eagerly, driven to do so.” Before having children, de Jong had been focused on a career path; she believed that kids shouldn’t sidetrack a woman’s career. Even before her first child was born, she had lined up fulltime daycare. All that went out the window with Charlotte’s illness. The couple’s three children were born at home in one of Amsterdam’s typical tall, narrow red brick 17th century buildings on a canal. With no garden, the family would sit on the front stoop and watch the world go by. For play, the children would go to a small pocket park nearby. The neighborhood school was so close, de Jong could wave to her children from the window of their home while they sat in their classroom. After walking them there, she would sit with other young mothers at a local café. “Here you drop off your kids by car and go; everyone lives in their homes rather than engaging on the street and in cafés. I miss this very much. In Amsterdam there are opportunities to meet people casually all the time, here social relations are so much more formal.” De Jong’s first novel, Lange Dagen (Long Days), for which the movie rights have already been sold, was written in that tall narrow house. The process gave her back a sense of individual identity. Essentially

autobiographical, the book was inspired by a family trip to Lapland and is told from the perspective of a 14-year-old girl who is quite as observant as her creator. “I can close my eyes and be there in that tiny room on the third floor of that old canal house, shutting out the mess of kids’ shoes and raincoats, toys and books, cocooned in my space, looking at the world from inside out.” It has taken longer for de Jong to get to grips with a memoir of her daughter’s illness. Although she started working on it in Princeton, she found the journey back to that time made her so sad that she set it aside. Now almost finished, the manuscript centers on the power of intuition and the dictates of a mother’s heart. “I was totally sure that we were doing the right thing. I never had any doubt. I felt intuitively that I knew what was needed. I held her close to my body, I fed her when she wanted to be fed and I kept her with me all of the time.” It is a story of survival, of trust and of setting boundaries and de Jong has been amazed at the audience response when she’s read excerpts in public. Writing Today

Interviewed at home in Olden Farm, the official residence of Institute directors since the days of J. Robert Oppenheimer, de Jong describes her writing process today. She’s quite candid in admitting that she couldn’t do her work and take care of her family without help in the house. That makes all the difference, she says. And it also helps that Olden Farm has lots of space; in her old canal home, she had to carve out room of her own. Working in an expansive room where the Bechstein piano and several pieces of furniture that once belonged to Albert Einstein share space with modern artworks by her husband, the author has settled into a productive and disciplined writing

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pattern. She confesses to having a few rituals as a way of getting reality out of the way: “my green tea, my spot by the fire, my bowl of fragrant lavender; as a warm up I procrastinate but once I’ve started, I’m so involved that I hear nothing if I’m interrupted.” She types fast with just two fingers, sometimes finding what she writes surprising. “You are a tourist in your own universe; you find a beautiful shell you didn’t know was there and you tap into your own unconscious; at least I think that’s what you do.” In studying her craft she looks to Joan Didion for style and tone and she’s a fan of Nora Ephron. “I write to understand myself in such a way that connects me to others,” she explains. “Even though I can be extroverted at a party, I am totally happy with my own company. I’m essentially an introvert and putting my thoughts on paper is a way of connecting. I dig into my unconscious for what moves me and I’m especially drawn to subjects that are taken for granted.” She describes Princeton as “an amazing community.” It wasn’t a hard decision to come here, she says. “I live in two worlds now; it’s not a case of giving anything up, it’s an enrichment. I count my blessings and there isn’t anything that isn’t a blessing. I’m grateful for everything that surrounds me and for what people offer me. I am lucky: my daughter survived and we got stronger out of it.”

In a New York Minute

De Jong’s critically acclaimed 2008 debut novel, Lange Dagen, received the 2008 Golden Owl Literature Readers Prize. Her second, Dieptevrees (Depth Fear), published in 2010, has been widely praised for its strong, elegant prose. Last summer, Dutch publisher, Prometheus, compiled more than 100 of her columns into a book

called Flessenpost. De Jong has translated a few of her Notes in a Bottle into English and published them, along with some of her other recent writing, including the first chapter of her novel Lange Dagen, in a slender booklet. You can find her Dutch and English writings on her website: www.piadejong.com.

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KOPP’S CYCLE 38 Spring Street Princeton, NJ http://koppscycle.net Kopp’s Cycle was established in 1891 by E.C. Kopp and claims the title of the oldest continually operating bike shop in the United States. The shop was originally located on Nassau Street. Since then, it has been housed on Chambers Street, John Street, and Witherspoon Street. Kopp’s is currently located on Spring Street. During the 1960s, the new owners pioneered the import of Italian racing bicycles, leading the shop to become a hub for East Coast bicycle racing throughout the 1970s. Albert Einstein was a regular, as was Brooke Shields. The shop will always be a frequent stop for Princeton University students who bring their well-worn bikes for maintenance and repair.

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Sourland Cycles 53 E Broad Street Hopewell, NJ http://sourlandcycles.com Sourland Cycles held their grand opening on April 11, 2015. The attractive store boasts triathlon bikes, road bikes, mountain bikes, electric bikes, and hybrid bikes. Sourland is committed to womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cycling. They carry the LIV brand from GIANT, the only major bike manufacturer that has developed a complete line of bikes for women. Sourland Cycles is actually a GIANT partner store, the only one in the region. GIANT is the largest maker of quality handmade bikes in the world. The store offers bike pick-up and delivery service, along with 24-hour roadside emergency assistance.

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Jay’s Cycles 249 Nassau Street Princeton, NJ http://jayscycles.com Conveniently located on Nassau Street, Jay’s Cycles is the oldest family-owned bike store in Princeton. They are also New Jersey’s largest Trek bike dealer. Jay’s offers rentals, which are perfect for around-town use or a day on the canal towpath. All rentals include a helmet and lock at no extra cost. Looking to trade in your old bike? Jay’s can help. They regularly buy used bicycles, allowing customers to put money toward the purchase of a new bike. Rear car trunk racks and most hitch racks sold at Jay’s are installed free of charge.

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Knapp’s Cyclery 1761 Princeton Avenue Lawrenceville, NJ 34 Main Street Cranbury, NJ www.knappscyclery.com Knapp’s Cyclery is an elite bicycle retail and service shop with locations in Lawrenceville and Cranbury. Knapp’s originally opened in 1944 in downtown Trenton. Pete Garnich purchased the store and moved it to Lawrenceville in 1998. Monday Night Road Rides depart weekly at 6pm from the Lawrenceville location, April through September. The group typically rides anywhere from 25 to 28 miles and anyone is welcome to join. Knapp’s offers an assortment of mountain bikes, road bikes, and triathlon bikes, along with specialized kids bikes like the Hotrock, which are considered to be the best on the market. Knapp’s also sells its own line of cycling gear including windproof vests, racing jerseys, jackets, and cycling caps.

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| VINTAGE PRINCETON MR. BIKE: In this 1973 photograph, Henry Arnold poses symbolically before a map of Princeton's proposed bike-paths. Arnold was described as a landscape architect and the town’s foremost proponent of the two-wheeler. Photo courtesy of Town Topics.

Henry Arnold, Princeton’s Mr. Bike by Linda Arntzenius

he many advantages of bicycling for recreation and as a mode of Singapore, Nigeria and Chicago. In Princeton, he founded transport have become hot topics for Princeton residents in recent years his own landscape architecture firm in 1988, Arnold with active members of groups such as Princeton Future, Walkable Associates, in partnership with Stephen Lederach. The firm Princeton, and the Princeton Bicycle and Pedestrian Advisory Committee focused on urban sites, with special expertise in developing promoting improvements such as dedicated bicycle lanes. Recently recognized by and using new urban tree planting techniques, and continues the League of American Bicyclists as a bicycle friendly community, Princeton has to do so today under the leadership of Lederach. long had bicycling enthusiasts. In the 1970s, landscape architect Henry Arnold was After earning his bachelor of landscape architecture foremost among them, earning the moniker “Mr. Bike” for his degree from the University of advocacy of two wheels over four. Pennsylvania’s School of Fine Arts, In this photograph from a spring 1973 issue of Town Arnold studied forestry at Penn State. He Topics, Arnold sits before a map of proposed bike-paths practiced landscape architecture for nearly for Princeton. In the article, he described ways in which five decades, often lecturing on ways automobiles damage the environment by reducing green in which landscape architects increase space to islands with fewer plants and animals; through noise the sustainability of urbanized areas by pollution; and by causing changes in the ground water during making cities more liveable. the construction of highways, which in turn generate the need For his work, he received a number for more highways. “By riding a bicycle, you take a dramatic of honors and awards, including the individual stand against damaging the environment,” he said. designation “Distinguished Artist” by Besides, riding a bike is fun, even in the rain. the New Jersey State Council on the Arnold said he wasn’t against cars, “only against their Arts. In 1980, his book Trees in Urban use.” Linking the problems caused by automobiles to patterns Design, now in its second edition, won the of development, he pointed out the need to tackle both American Publishers Award for best book together. According to the Town Topics article, he thinks “we in architecture and urban planning. Other are faced with a social problem requiring us to change the accolades include design recognition ways we live (bikes, not cars). This means, of course, that and honorable mention in the Vietnam change won’t come quickly.” The article described Arnold as Veterans Memorial Competition (1981) a “practical visionary” with some radical ideas. “The bicycle, and the Pershing Square Competition he said is more a step into the future than a moon vehicle!” (1986). He is a Fellow of the American Mayor Liz Lempert, photo by Nat Case, INCase, LLC “Mr Arnold is best known, aside from his advocacy of the Society of Landscape Architects. bicycle, for saying that all cars should be removed from Nassau Street. He also has Many of Arnold’s ideas have found a receptive audience said, loudly and in public, that the temporary closing of Palmer Square simply isn’t in today’s Princeton, as Mayor Liz Lempert shows. radical enough: if you’re going to do it, DO IT, with a grand and imaginative plan. Now retired and in his eighties, Princeton’s Mr. Spend a million, he said once, and the benefit would be reaped ten times over.” Bike now resides in Pennswood Village in Newtown, An ex-paratrooper, Arnold came to Princeton from Vermont where he worked Pennsylvania, where he continues to bike and tout the on a master plan for the campus of the University of Vermont and on city parks in benefits of his preferred mode of transport.

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Bay Head’s pristine beaches and salt marshes. A house by Robert Monetti of Monetti Custom Homes, Brielle, New Jersey, and architect John Amelchenko of Aquatecture Associates, Point Pleasant Beach, New Jersey.

At the mouth of Barnegat Bay lies a quaint Victorian village with a family atmosphere that appears relatively untouched by time. Bay Head Borough is located on the Jersey Shore’s barrier island, nestled between Point Pleasant to the north and Mantoloking to the south. Bay Head is less than one square mile so everything is within walking distance—pristine beaches, a popular wine and cheese shop, restaurants, a bakery, public tennis courts, gift shops, bed & breakfasts, even a bank. “But there’s no honky-tonk, no bars and no loud noises,” said Mayor Bill Curtis. “There are no attractions and that’s what the younger people are looking for. The people who are here now like the quiet style.” Even without a commercial boardwalk like the one in Seaside Heights to the south, there’s still plenty to do in this small town. Visitors can take a trip to Twilight Lake, a local waterfowl sanctuary. There’s a twice-monthly farmers market that runs from late June through August and free outdoor movie nights for locals and visitors alike. The Lenni-Lenape Indians were Bay Head’s

earliest inhabitants in the 1600s, followed by New Englanders who became farmers, fishermen and seamen, according to the Bay Head Business Association. In 1876, David Mount, a Princeton banker, bought beach acreage from a retired sea captain. A few years later, he and fellow bankers

Edward Howe and William Harris formed the Bay Head Land Company to develop the farms, woods, cranberry bogs and bayberry dunes into what is now Bay Head. The town began to grow between 1882 and 1919 when train service became available to and from New York and Philadelphia. Many of the

streets in Bay Head were named after prominent Princetonians, Philadelphians and New Yorkers who were its founders and many current residents are their direct descendants. In the winter months, the population of Bay Head is about 1,000 people, although that number swells to about 10,000 in the summer, Mayor Curtis said. Houses in Bay Head are built on small lots and tend to be close to one another. Land is valuable and home prices range between $400,000 to more than $5 million. “The biggest change (over the years) is the lack of businesses,” Curtis said. “We used to have close to 80-85 businesses and now we’re down to about 40. From five hotels to one, and we’re down to two bed and breakfasts.” Some stores closed in the wake of competition from chain and big box stores or found they couldn’t make a living in the small town. Bay Head town features 1.3 miles of beach with 11 public entrances. A project to install new sewer, water and gas lines along Route 35 is expected to be completed by the end of April and public parking is allowed along the main thoroughfare for day trippers looking for an easy walk to the beach. MAY/JUNE 2015 PRINCETON MAGAZINE

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PHOTO COURTESY OF JOHN R. CALLAHAN/AMERICAN MILLWORK & CABINETRY SHUTTERSTOCK

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The beaches are privately owned but open to the public and managed by the non-profit Bay Head Improvement Association. Founded in 1898, BHIA provides beach lifeguards, people who patrol the beaches and the sale of seasonal and day passes. The cost of access is $80 for a full season, $45 for a half season and $8 for a day badge. Children under 12 are free. Comparable beaches cost $110 for a seasonal pass and $10 for a day pass, BHIA director Tom Gage said. Dogs are not allowed on the beach in the summer. Food and beverages are prohibited, although water is allowed in clear, plastic containers. “From the start, homeowners said ‘others can use my beaches, but I don’t want it set up as a picnic area,’” Gage said. Bay Head’s roughly 75 beachfront homeowners pay for all of the beach maintenance—pushing sand onto the beach, building fences, protecting the dunes, plantings, etc. And in late October of 2012, when Hurricane Sandy battered the East Coast and devastated the Jersey Shore, Bay Head escaped much of the disaster that affected neighboring communities. That’s because a sea wall, originally constructed in the late 1800s and replaced with a 16-foot-high engineered underground rock wall in 1962, helped mitigate the damage. Jennifer Irish, an associate professor in the Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering at Virginia Tech, was part of a team that arrived in Bay Head in November 2012 to survey the damage in Bay Head and neighboring Mantoloking. Their study and report, funded by the National Science Foundation, is titled “Buried relic seawall mitigates Hurricane Sandy’s impacts.” “From a few minutes after we got to the beach, we could tell the area was dramatically impacted and we could see stark differences between the two towns,” Professor Irish said. “It became obvious there was a story there from a coastal perspective. Oceanfront homes in Mantoloking were virtually missing. In Bay Head, they had significant and obvious damage and were flooded, but they were physically there.” In addition, the team noted Mantoloking had more areas that had been breached by water, leaving sections that connected the ocean and the bay. Tom Gage agreed. “During Sandy, Bay Head suffered just like everyone else, but that section (with the sea wall) suffered least of all. The homes were damaged, but not washed away.” Watching the seawall’s protection in the wake of Hurricane Sandy spurred the remaining homeowners to action. At an expense of approximately $200,000 each, homeowners to the north and south of the existing seawall extended the seawall into the north end of Mantoloking and up past the northern border into Point Pleasant. That work was completed in March of this year. “The new sections of wall are 18 feet high,” Gage said. Every business was severely damaged by the storm, but 90 percent of those businesses were back in operation by the summer of 2014, according to Curtis. “Bay Head is back and vibrant and I think it’s going to be even better than it was prior to Sandy,” Curtis said.

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Take Route 195 East to Route 34 South (towards Brielle), Route 34 becomes Route 35 South and will take you directly into the Borough of Bay Head.

Bay Head is the final stop on NJ Transit’s North Jersey Coast Line.

WHERE TO STAY THE GRENVILLE HOTEL & RESTAURANT 345 Main Avenue 732.892.3100 The four story hotel features 29 guest rooms (standard, midsize and suites). The restaurant is BYOB. Open for lunch and dinner and brunch on Sundays.

www.thegrenville.com THE BENTLEY INN BED & BREAKFAST 694 Bay Avenue 732.892.9589 An 1886 Victorian mansion located three houses from the beach. There are 21 guest rooms, off-street parking and more.

www.bentleyinn.com BAY HEAD SANDS BED & BREAKFAST INN 2 Twilight Road 732.899.7016 A 1910 shingle-style structure, featuring a parlor with original stained glass windows. There are eight bedrooms, each with an ocean or lake view and amenities. Located one block east of the Bay Head Train Station.

WHERE TO EAT BAY HEAD CHEESE SHOP & BOTTLES TOO 91 Bridge Avenue Seasonal soups, homemade quiche, hot/cold hors d’oeuvres, cheese, spreads, etc.

CURTIS’ CENTRAL MARKET 536 Main Avenue Offers breakfast and lunch. Also has groceries and liquor. DORCAS RESTAURANT 58 Bridge Avenue Open during the summer only. Offers soups, salad, sandwiches, plus specials for lunch. Open Saturdays and Sunday for breakfast. Open for ice cream Thursday-Saturday evenings during the summer.

MUELLER’S BAKERY 80 Bridge Avenue Features fresh, handmade baked goods- pastries, cakes, bread, bagels, doughnuts, coffee, etc.

THERESA’S SOUTH 530 Main Avenue Offers dinner nightly and brunch on Sunday. Features homemade pastas and entrees from different cuisines. BYOB.

www.bayheadsands.com

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JESSE

MARSCH WRITING A NEW CHAPTER IN THE HISTORY

OF THE RED BULLS COURTESY OF THE NEW YORK RED BULLS

BY BILL ALDEN

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5/7/15 11:56:46 AM

JEFF ZELEVANSKY

The New York Red Bulls celebrates after defeating rival D.C. United 2-0 on March 22, 2015.

The New York Red Bulls franchise of Major League Soccer has a tortured history, featuring big-name players and underachievement. Despite attracting such internationally known players as Thierry Henry, Tim Howard, Michael Bradley, Juan Pablo Angel, and Bradley Wright-Phillips over the years, the club has never won an MLS Cup in its 20-plus seasons. So when the franchise underwent its latest changing of the guard last year with former MLS executive Ali Curtis taking over as Sporting Director, popular head coach Mike Petke landed on the hot seat. Curtis fired Petke in January and the smart money was on the club bringing in a high profile replacement. Instead, the Harrison, N.J.-based Red Bulls hired a volunteer college coach toiling 45 miles south for the Princeton University men’s soccer team. But that coach, Jesse Marsch, was no stranger to the high stakes world of professional soccer. “The Red Bulls reached out to me, a lot of changes were happening in the organization and they wanted to take the team in a new direction,” says Marsch, 41, a 1996 Princeton alum, who tallied 29 goals and 15 assists in a storied college career

before playing 14 years in the MLS. “After I met with them we realized that we had similar ideals and a symmetry on how the organization should be run.” Many of those ideals stemmed from the deep bond Marsch formed with his no-nonsense Tiger coach Bob Bradley. He played many seasons for Bradley in the MLS and when he left the pitch, Marsch transitioned into coaching and once again teamed up with Bradley. He became an assistant coach for the U.S. men’s national team guided by his Princeton mentor and helped the U.S. make the 2010 World Cup in South Africa, where it advanced to the second round of the competition Upon the end of the Bradley regime with the national team, Marsch headed north, taking over as the first head coach for the expansion Montreal Impact of the MLS. He led the team to a 12-17-7 record in 2012 but parted ways with the organization after that one campaign. Taking a hiatus from the game, Marsch embarked on a world tour with his wife and three children, visiting 29 countries in five months. After returning to the U.S. in 2013, he gravitated toward his spiritual home, taking a spot as a volunteer assistant under Princeton men’s head coach Jim Barlow

For Marsch, returning to his soccer roots helped get him back in coaching mode. “It was awesome, the first thing was working with Jimmy,” says Marsch, who helped Princeton tie for the Ivy League title this past fall. “It helped to keep me going professionally and personally. I didn’t get involved in recruiting or other things. It was training and games. I enjoyed getting to know all the players and getting reacquainted with the program. There is something about the Princeton student athletes. They are bright kids, well rounded kids. It was a pleasure to work with them. They are there for the right reasons, they are there for the team.” While Barlow notes that Marsch formed an instant rapport with the players, he points out that Marsch kept the coaches on their toes with his Bradley-like attention to detail and straight talk. “I think the players responded well, they could see from day one how much it mattered to him and that he was spending so much time helping the team,” recalls Barlow, noting that Marsch had put together a big binder filled with training exercises, drills, and the like that the coaches dubbed the “Marsch Methodology.” MAY/JUNE 2015 PRINCETON MAGAZINE

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ANDY MEAD

Jesse Marsch spent four years playing at Princeton University, and he was mentored by former Princeton and U.S. menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s national team coach, Bob Bradley.

Players take the field at the Red Bull Arena (ABOVE). #99 Forward Bradley Wright-Phillips (OPPOSITE). PHOTOS BY ROB TRINGALI.

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SAM SZAPUCKI

“He immersed himself in all training activities day to day. Jesse made us better coaches. He is strong willed and opinionated. He would challenge us on training plans. He made us better coaches. With his personality and passion, he got us to look at doing things differently,” says Barlow. In taking the helm of the Red Bulls, Marsch is looking to instill the passion for the group that he relished during his stint coaching at Princeton. “In the pros I am trying to implement that team culture, it is just at a higher level,” explains Marsch. “I think in the past, the organization revolved around a few superstars. My message was that there was going to be a culture shift. I was careful not to denounce anything that had been done in the past but made it clear that moving forward, it is not about the individual, but what the team can do.” While the termination of fan favorite Petke, a former star player for the club, prompted a firestorm of protest from supporters, Marsch isn’t about to be bogged down in public relations issues. “I am focused on doing the job and making sure that the team grows,” maintains Marsch, noting he was “hardened” in the “right way” through his experience in Montreal. “I am not here to win a popularity contest. Once we get to where I want us to be, I think they will be there and supportive.” Barlow believes Marsch’s shared philosophies with Bradley will help him win over the fans. “I think when you look at the similarities, it is so much about stripping down things that don’t matter,” says Barlow. “It is about focusing on the things that do matter and that you can influence. The focus is on the job and what he has to do to make his team better.” The physically fit Marsch, who could be seen riding his bike through the streets of Princeton over the last two years and appears to have remained at his playing weight of 170 pounds over his 5’11” frame, thrives on the grueling schedule that comes with his job. “We go through a lot, physical work, training, putting in new points, we are thorough with video

and analysis,” adds Marsch, who typically puts in 11-hour days, arriving in Harrison at 7AM and leaving at 6PM. “I am trying to build sophistication into the players. I want them to continue to grow and handle more sophisticated things but ultimately get to the point where everything is clear. I think they were looking for a lot of the things that I am about and they have bought in.” It didn’t take long for the Red Bulls to buy into Marsch’s approach as the club went 3-0-2 in the first five games of his tenure. “The only importance of the results is that it validated what we are doing. I want us to develop an identity, a way of playing and way of training,” asserts Marsch, who likened his preferred style of play to an energy drink. “If we do that right, the wins will come. The process is more important than the results. We have gotten younger and more athletic and more up tempo. We are going after teams and playing a type of football that hasn’t been played in the MLS.” After working with Marsch the last two years, Barlow is not surprised to see an immediate transformation in the Red Bulls. “He needs to be coaching, he needs to be working with a team, that is where he is most comfortable,” says Barlow. “It certainly seems like the players are fighting for each other. They are playing entertaining soccer, fast-paced and up tempo. They all seem to be on the same page.” Marsch, for his part, is hoping to author a special chapter in the history of the Red Bulls. “I have found the right fit, hopefully I can call this home and lead this team to glory,” says Marsch, who is still residing in Princeton. “We want to be the best. I feel we are on the right course, we are building a foundation for the future.” MAY/JUNE 2015 PRINCETON MAGAZINE

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HOME at LAST HOMEFRONT’S “CAMPUS OF HOPE” BY ANNE LEVIN | PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIKE MANCUSO

PM_Homefront_June2015.indd 2

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(OPPOSITE) A HomeFront client and her young son enjoying quality “Mommy and me” time with Dr. Seuss. (BELOW) At HomeFront’s Family Preservation Center, mothers receive continuous support, training and encouragement in their parenting skills.

Talk about irony. After nearly 25 years serving the homeless of Mercer County, HomeFront, the short-term residential haven for women and their children, was about to become homeless. The State of New Jersey was preparing to sell the Ewing Township property where the non-profit’s Family Preservation Center had been a tenant for more than a decade. In former dormitories on the campus of the Katzenbach School for the Deaf, some 1,800 single-parent families had found food, shelter, clothing, art and education programs, job training, and more – with a goal of returning to independence and self-sufficiency. But the future was uncertain. Miraculously, an

opportunity presented itself in the form of an 8.5-acre decommissioned Naval base just a few miles away. In the works for seven years, the idea was formalized just in time. The federal government donated the base and surrounding acreage, which includes two additional buildings. By August, HomeFront expects to move into its 42,000-squarefoot building near the Mercer County Airport. For Connie Mercer, who founded HomeFront at her kitchen table in 1991, the new home is a dream come true. It is so much bigger, cheerier, and more functional than the cramped headquarters at Katzenbach that she can’t wait to get in and start welcoming families—this time with fathers, too— across the threshold. “There are people who have been clawing their way out of poverty and homelessness, which is a very difficult task,” she said, stepping over cables and construction debris during a tour of the unfinished building. Mercer’s knee was bothering

her on this March morning, but she wasn’t about to let it stop her from taking in both floors of the building. “You need so many pieces,” she said. “Here, folks are going to have all of the opportunities to be safe and establish a foothold. It’s just extraordinary.” Mercer stopped in the spacious area that will become a teaching kitchen. “Some of these mothers were raised by crack-heads. They have no life skills,” she said. “So they can learn them here. Having this kitchen is a huge advantage.” “Bubby’s Kitchen,” named after Mercer’s late mother Bernice Roud, a popular presence at HomeFront, is just the beginning. There will be an airy art studio, a computer training center, a library, a lifestyles center for music, drama and yoga, and a round-the-clock childcare center. Rooms for 38 families, eight of which will be able to accommodate families with fathers, will have private bathrooms. MAY/JUNE 2015 PRINCETON MAGAZINE

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Visitors checking out the future home of the HomeFront Family Campus included (LEFT TO RIGHT) Llura Gund, Mary Lynn Nazzaro, Denise Taylor, Cheryl Gomes, Reverend David McAlpin, Connie Mercer, Judy Long, Barbara Straut, Ruth Scott, Barbara Long and Faith DeJean.

Children, mothers, volunteers and staff enjoying storytime at HomeFrontâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Family Preservation Center.

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Afternoon and evening tutoring with individualized, one-on-one attention, is provided to school-age children at HomeFront’s Family Preservation Center and throughout the community.

The new Family Campus will also provide on-site access to community partners, with working branches of the Mercer County Welfare Department, Womanspace, and a wellness clinic in partnership with Children’s Hospital of Philadelphia. “The on-site clinic for kids aged one to three will keep records, which is a first,” Mercer said. “And the main part of the clinic’s job, besides assuaging mothers’ concerns, is matching them with a pediatrician when they leave.” Though the building was donated, the renovations —and they are extensive—are costing HomeFront $6 million. About three quarters has been raised, and fundraising is ongoing. “We’ve been blessed to have the Tepper family give us a $1 million challenge grant,” Mercer said. Stopping to marvel at the wall of windows that will flood the main floor art studio with light, she continued: “You can see rooms starting to take shape. Every time I walk through here, I can just picture how it's going to be. It truly is transformational. There is nothing like it on the east coast. The Flemington-based Pickell Architecture firm was hired to turn the forbidding facility into an inviting, family-friendly haven. With 19-inch-thick concrete walls and 90 holes to cut through for windows, they have had their work cut out for them. The building was “a hulking, ugly, hideous box,” said architect Chris Pickell. “And they wanted to make it as humane as they could. We carefully made some very large openings, with the biggest ones in the center of the building. We tried to align the

windows at the ends of the long corridors, so you are always walking toward the light.” Pickell is partial to the entrance sequence of the building. He designed curved tree canopies on the outside, “to add some fun to the box,” he said. “And on the inside, the main lobby and the art room beyond are a kind of showplace. We didn’t have a lot of models to follow, because no one that I know of has combined different elements like this. The building is really a great fit for what they wanted to put into it. There are so many different functions, and we managed to fit them all in gracefully, I think.” The idea of shepherding a renovation project for a major non-profit would never have occurred to Connie Mercer when she was running her own executive recruiting firm from her Princeton home more than two decades ago. She has a background in human services and social work, so it isn’t that surprising that her friend Chris Hanson, a pediatrician with the Division of Youth and Family Services (DYFS), told her one day about the plight of the homeless in Mercer County. Mercer winces at the memory. “He took me to see the motels on Route One, where people were being warehoused with no place to make their meals, no place for kids to play and do their homework, and no privacy at all. He said to me, ‘These are hungry, homeless people. You have to fix it.’ So at first I thought, I live in this wealthy town. It won’t be hard. Was I wrong.” Mercer and some of her friends began taking food and clothing to the motels. They tried to make sure

the children got to school. But every time they tackled a problem, another would crop up. “It was never the plan to turn it into a huge thing, but it grew like Topsy,” she said. Mercer never gave up. Today, HomeFront has just under 100 units of permanent, affordable housing scattered throughout Mercer County. The non-profit gives out about $500,000 a year in an effort to prevent homelessness. The Robert Wood Johnson Foundation has funded a fleet of vehicles. NRG Energy has donated solar panels, installed at no charge and maintained for the first 10 years. Numerous other individuals, corporations and foundations have helped. “The community has stepped up,” Mercer said. “We have over 1,200 active volunteers. Last year we got over $3 million of in kind goods and services. HomeFront has become a vehicle for the community’s caring.” Mercer has chosen a quote by Margaret Mead to be installed by the lobby’s water fountain. It reads: “Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world; indeed, it’s the only thing that ever has.” The next phase of the project will include establishing a diaper bank, and a place for refinishing furniture. A soccer field and gardens with new trees are on the drawing board. “What we’re creating is a model for how to get families back on their feet,” Mercer says.“If these families have their immediate needs met, we want them to be able to dream and have the tools to make their dreams come true.” MAY/JUNE 2015 PRINCETON MAGAZINE

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For more information, visit: peddie.org/summerprograms or call 609-944-7570

PRINCETON MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2015

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| art scene

HomeFront’s ArtSpace A Creative Path to Self-Sufficiency by Linda Arntzenius

he idea behind HomeFront’s therapeutic art program is a simple one. Art has the power to transport us from the cares of the world. Making art even more so. What better way to help those who are undergoing the trauma of homelessness than to tap into the healing power of artistic self-expression? ArtSpace, a bright studio with all the necessary supplies for HomeFront clients to explore their creative sides, nurtures individual journeys toward self-awareness, insight, and ultimately self-sufficiency. The results speak for themselves. Jo Ann Abdelwahabe, who came to HomeFront in 2013 after her home was destroyed in a fire, didn’t think much of her own artistic talents before she discovered ArtSpace and tried her hand at painting. “Seeing my work in a frame nailed to a wall made me feel like a movie star, no kidding,” she recalls. “Creating something beautiful makes me feel beautiful.” Abdelwahabe, who describes HomeFront as “a blessed domain,” has since sold many of her acrylic-on-canvas works—florals and serene landscapes with evocative titles like “Sunny Landscape” and “Path to Peace.” Like Abdelwahabe, Helen Baeza also lost her home, which was destroyed when Hurricane Irene hit the Trenton area in 2011. ArtSpace, she says, offers a chance to “stop thinking about worries, even if it’s just for two hours a week.” At 19, Yvetta Dunn found a home for herself and her two children at the shelter. The first time she entered the art studio she was looking for a quiet place to do some school homework. “But the colors, emotions, and the words that came out of every picture hanging on the wall had me in a dream-like state,” she recalls. “I started to doodle in my math work, and my first ArtSpace painting was born.” After that, Dunn made use of the studio’s flexible open hours to revive the love she had for art in high school. Her work has a naïve cartoon-like quality that has developed from watching television shows to drawing upon her own imagination. “ArtSpace creates a wonderful atmosphere for everyone who wants to express their own feelings,” says Gennie Darisme. Originally from Haiti, Darisme came to HomeFront with her daughter in 2010. Her first work was a sketched self portrait. Now she paints portraits and landscapes in all mediums and works very quickly “to capture the immediacy and truth of a given moment in light and dark colors.”

“Happy Poppy 1” by Jo Ann A., acrylic on canvas 10″x10″

“Rooster 2” by Jo Ann A., acrylic on canvas 11″x14″

Supported by a team of volunteers who prompt and guide artistic expression, ArtSpace is a non-threatening, non-judgmental environment. New ways of thinking develop as self-esteem grows; creative energy sparks confidence; broken spirits find solace. The program’s impact is often life-changing, as when an artist finds a buyer for her work. “For the women who sell and exhibit their artwork it’s usually the first time ever exhibiting, and when they sell work it’s really unbelievable to them at first—someone values what they created so much that they purchased it. That’s an awesome self-esteem builder,” says Ruthann Traylor, the program’s director. In addition to an online store, an annual exhibition and sale brings the work before the public. The fifth ArtJam pop-up gallery was held earlier this year at 19 Hulfish Street in Princeton. While the location varies according to suitable available space, ArtJam has been held in Palmer Square on several occasions. Alongside HomeFront’s own client artists, it features an eclectic mix of local artists. This year the event sold out. Proceeds are split between artist and Artspace—60 percent to the artist and 40 percent in support of the program. Traylor, who has a degree in art therapy, has worked with HomeFront for 9 years. She credits a great group of volunteers such as the accomplished area artist Carine Fram for advancing the program’s goals and thereby HomeFront’s mission to assist individuals in becoming self-reliant. Supported by the premise that homelessness and poverty rob individuals of self respect and make it difficult to focus on what they can do to improve their own situation, the therapeutic art program teaches life skills such as focusing, problem solving, taking risks, and finishing what is started. Fram contributes her time and talent not only in the art studio but in the new SewingSpace program she helped to create. She’s taught felting and ways to create such household items as table runners, pillows, and art bags, small luxuries that most of us take for granted but that are not easily affordable to those living on welfare. Like its sister art program, the sewing program promotes “thinking out of the box,” resulting in clothing and furniture being recycled to new purpose.

PRINCETON MAGAZINE may/june 2015

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“Floral Moments” by Jo Ann A., acrylic on canvas 8″x10″

“Many of the wonderful clients I work with at HomeFront are creative and talented, but when you’re living a life of poverty you don’t have the means or the opportunity to create,” says Traylor. “ArtSpace allows individuals to experience joy.” To see works by HomeFront artists, visit the ArtSpace Store at: www. artspacenj.org/store where original paintings, sets of printed art cards, pillows, art bags and other products are available for purchase. To support the project, consider donating art supplies such as paint brushes, paint, watercolor and acrylic paper, canvas, beads and A.C Moore or Michael’s gift certificates. Area Exhibits

Trenton City Museum at Ellarslie in Cadwalader Park, Trenton, presents the 32nd Annual Ellarslie Open juried exhibition and art sale through June 28. Stacy Smith of the Zimmerli Museum has selected 140 pieces in a wide-ranging variety of media from 423 works submitted by 225 tri-state area artists, including Jane G. Adriance, Robert Beck, Ronald Berlin, Trudy Glucksberg, Lionel Goodman, Joe Kazimierczyk, Renee Kumar, Mary Allessio Leck, Dallas Piotrowski, Richard Speedy, and Samuel Vovsi. Award winners will discuss their work at a gallery talk on Sunday, June 14, at 2pm. For more information, call 609.989.3632, or visit: www.ellarslie.org. Grounds for Sculpture, Hamilton: Seward Johnson: The Retrospective is extended to July. Also Jae Ko: Selections features the work of the Korean-born artist, Jae Ko, including a major new commission in the East Gallery that is more than 80 feet long. Force of Nature transforms over 20,000 pounds of recycled paper into the artist’s largest and most ambitious piece to date. The exhibition will be on view through February 6, 2016. For more information, hours and admission, visit: www.groundsforsculpture.org. James A. Michener Art Museum, 138 South Pine Street, Doylestown: The Artist in the Garden continues through August 9; Rodin: The Human Experience—Selections from the Iris & B. Gerald Cantor Collections and the companion exhibition The Rodin Legacy through June 14. For more information, hours and admission, call 215.340.9800 or 800.595.4849, or visit: www. MichenerArtMuseum.org.

“Folk Flowers” by Kia, acrylic on canvas box 5″ x 5″

19th Century New Jersey Chairmaking, through October 18. For more information, hours and admission, call 609.924.8144 ext.106 or visit: www.morven.org. Princeton University Art Museum: The City Lost and Found: Capturing New York, Chicago, and Los Angeles, 1960–1980 through June 7. Also Painting on Paper: American Watercolors at Princeton, June 27 through August 30, comprises rarely seen highlights from the museum’s collection, including works by Winslow Homer, John Singer Sargent, Edward Hopper and Andrew Wyeth. For more information, hours and admission, call 609.258.3788, or visit: artmuseum.princeton.edu/exhibitions.

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| BOOK SCENE

Reading the World I by Stuart Mitchner

n his introduction to the 1946 Scribner’s edition of Henry James’s The American Scene, W.H. Auden observes that while travel is the “easiest subject for the journalist” who requires only “a ﬂair for being on the spot where interesting events happen,” it is the most difﬁcult for the artist, “who is deprived of the freedom to invent, free only to select and never to modify or add, which calls for imagination of a very high order.” Except that, as Auden goes on to show, James found ways to invent, modify, or add, exploiting his “descriptive conceits” with rhapsodies on “the golden apples of the Jersey shore” and the pleasure of “being ever so wisely driven, driven further and further, into the large lucidity of—well, of what else shall I call it but a New Jersey condition?” BACKPACKING

This revelation prompted her to set up a blog in 2012, “A Year of Reading the World,” the goal being to read a book translated into English from each of the world’s 195 UN-recognized countries in the form of classics, folktales, current favorites and commercial triumphs, novels, short stories, and memoirs. THE END OF INNOCENCE

Area readers will take note as soon as they begin reading Don George’s introduction to his newest anthology An Innocent Abroad: Life-Changing Trips from 35 Great Writers (Lonely Planet $15.95), with its admission, “I went to live in Paris right after graduating from Princeton, following in the footsteps of F. Scott Fitzgerald, or so I fancied.” A member of the Class of 1975, George is the Global Travel Editor for Lonely Planet Publications and has edited numerous other Lonely Planet anthologies. In his quarter century of wandering, he claims to have visited more than 60 countries and has published more than 600 articles in newspapers and magazines worldwide. He also writes Salon.com’s weekly travel column, “Wanderlust,” and was the founder and editor of its awardwinning travel site. Sounding the theme of innocence and experience, George introduces a cast of authors that includes Dave Eggers (“in the backroom of a Bangkok brothel-cum-nightclub”), Sloane Crosley (“on a cliff overlooking a shark-infested Australian bay”), Pico Iyer (“a succession of ill-fated initiations in South America”), Tim Cahill (“a series of rootless adventures in North America”), and Richard Ford (“an illadvised journey by car into the heart of hashish country”), and Simon Winchester (“ice-bound by fjord-freezing storms in Greenland”). To acknowledge his title’s debt to Mark Twain’s Innocents Abroad, George adds a quote from the original: “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness....Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one’s lifetime.”

The most widely read recent example of travel narrative is Cheryl Strayed’s Wild: From Lost to Found on the Pacific Coast Trail, the subject of the Summer 2013 Book Scene. Still on the best-seller list two years later thanks in part to the Reese Witherspoon film, Wild bears out Auden’s notion of “a flair for being on the spot where interesting events happen.” If nothing else, Strayed put backpacking into the mainstream of travel writing, thus Belden C. Lane’s Backpacking with the Saints: Wilderness Hiking as Spiritual Practice (Oxford $24.95), which includes a quote from Wild among a slew of epigraphs. “I long to hear the saints speak with a stark clarity, six miles in from the trailhead,” Lane says in the prologue. “Their task is to call me up short. They leave me speechless before a mystery that’s beyond my understanding, but not beyond my love.” In a chapter titled “The Risk-Taking Character of Wilderness Reading,” Lane talks about reading dangerous books in dangerous landscapes, where the “place heightens the vulnerability occasioned by the text.” As examples of how the place where a book is encountered affects the way it’s read, Lane cites Claus Westermann reading the Psalms in a Russian prison camp and Eldridge Cleaver reading Thomas Merton in Folsom Prison.

Travels in Vermeer: a Memoir by Michael White (Persea $17.95) relates how the author, a poet, finds escape from a bad divorce through viewing the paintings of Vermeer, in six world cities, Amsterdam, The Hague, Delft, London, Washington, and New York. White meditates on Vermeer’s women, the artist’s relationship to his subjects, and the way composition “reflects back to the viewer such deep feeling.” Clyde Edgerton, the author of Walking Through Egypt, finds Travels in Vermeer to be “a unique dance among genres” whose “clear and powerful descriptions touch on the mysteries of seduction, loss, and the artistic impulse.” Kirkus Reviews calls it “An enchanting book about the transformative power of art.”

195 COUNTRIES

RIDING FIRST CLASS

Of course you don’t have to go to dangerous places or leave your comfortable study to take the world on or in, which is the idea behind The World Between Two Covers: Reading the Globe (Liveright $24.95) by Ann Morgan, who writes in the opening, “I glanced up at my bookshelves, the proud record of more than twenty years of reading, and found a host of English and North American greats staring down at me…I had barely touched a work by a foreign language author in years… The awful truth dawned. I was a literary xenophobe.”

Of today’s “literary writers,” Paul Theroux has enjoyed extraordinary success in the travel narrative genre, beginning with his blockbuster best-seller The Great Railway Bazaar: By Train Through Asia (1975). In the wake of that first triumph, the 74-year-old Theroux has produced something like a dozen similarly railway-themed books, including a 2008 sequel, where he retraces the journey (Ghost Train to the Eastern Star) and, his most recent installment in this series of a lifetime, The Last Train to Zona Verde: My Ultimate African Safari (Houghton Mifflin $27). The Booklist review of that one assumes that “ultimate” means “final” and imagines the author “in an autumnal state of mind” as he “ponders his own mortality.” As a lover of train journeys, I admired the concept and enjoyed The Great Railway Bazaar, but only at arm’s length, the arm being Theroux’s. Certain terms surfacing from the reviews of his latest journey suggest that he’s still the same “grouchy,” “curmudgeonly” traveling companion he’s always been. Mark Twain’s celebration of travel as “fatal to narrow-mindedness” and productive of “broad, charitable views of

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DEEPER INTO VERMEER

men” doesn’t apply to Theroux, whose congenital unpleasantness has apparently never deterred vicarious travelers from the displeasure of his company. Finally, Theroux bears out Auden’s distinction between the journalist and the artist. As a fastidious traveler, he offers little beyond “a ﬂair for being on the spot where interesting events happen,” while in a work of ﬁction like The Mosquito Coast he’s able to draw from an “imagination of a very high order.” RIDING ROUGH

My response to The Great Railway Bazaar is admittedly complicated by the fact that in the spring of 1976, while people were still buying, reading and talking about that book, Little Brown released my own travel memoir, Indian Action: An American Journey to the Great Fair of the East. It would be hard to imagine two more diametrically opposed adventures in the genre. Theroux traveled ﬁrst-class all the way. His “traveling persona,” as described in the front page send-off in the Times Book Review, was “acerbic, bookish, deadpan, observant, bibulous and rather passive (except for a ﬁerce determination to secure comfortable accommodation and something to drink).” Mine was upbeat, rhapsodic, hyperactive, and headlong. If you read Indian Action, you bang around in the back of trucks, eating dust, getting high on exotic concoctions called Mad Dog Pie, and travelling thirdclass on Indian Railways. The reviews were exciting (“a virtuoso celebration in dancing language,” “a rollicking, often frightening trip to a psychedelic heart of darkness,” “a drug generation On the Road,” full of “zest, wonder, and downright hairiness”), but the only one that counted, in the Times Book Review, came half a year too late and compared my “dancing language” to positions in the Kama Sutra. True enough. ASSORTED OTHERS

New titles recommended by Labyrinth Books in Princeton include The Lost World of the Old Ones: Discoveries in the Ancient Southwest (Norton $27.95) by veteran mountain climber David Roberts; The Brandywine An Intimate Portrait (Univ. of Pennsylvania Press $34.95) by Princeton faculty member W. Barksdake Maynard; Jewish New York: A History and Guide to Neighborhoods, Synagogues, and Eateries (Pelican paperback $24.95) by Paul Kaplan; and The WeeGee Guide to New York: Roaming the City with Its Greatest Tabloid Photographer (Prestel $39.95), which includes contemporary and period fold-out maps.

PRINCETON MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2015

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| CULTURAL EVENTS MAY 28

M A R K YO U R

JUNE 18

CALENDAR CALEN M U S I C | B O O K S | T H E AT R E | L E C T U R E S | S P O R T S JULY 24

THURSDAY, MAY 28

SUNDAY, MAY 31

TUESDAY, JUNE 9

8AM: Continuation of the Devon Horse Show in

11AM-10PM: Cape May Restaurant Week. Cape May’s

Devon, Pa., the oldest multi-breed horse competition in the country. The event draws international competitors and trainers (through Sunday, May 31). www.devonhorseshow.net

ﬁnest restaurants serve unique lunch and dinner specials (through June 7). www.cmrestaurantweek.com

ALL DAY The Alumni Association of Princeton

11AM: Princeton University’s 2015 Commencement Ceremonies and address by President Eisgruber. www. princeton.edu/commencement

6PM: The Great Chefs Event at the Navy Yard in Philadelphia includes a fun and passionate night of food, silent, and live auctions, and a raffle with prizes. Proceeds benefit Alex’s Lemonade Stand Foundation and the Vetri Foundation for Children, which is committed to fighting childhood cancer. www. alexslemonade.org

University welcomes back generations of graduates for Reunions Weekend. Nearly 20,000 former Tigers descend on Princeton for this nostalgia-ﬁlled celebration. The event culminates with a parade through downtown Princeton (through Sunday, May 31). www.alumni.princeton.edu

THURSDAY, JUNE 4 11AM-4PM: Princeton Farmers Market in Hinds Plaza. The

FRIDAY, MAY 29

outdoor market occurs every Thursday, rain or shine, through November 19. www.princetonfarmersmarket. com

5PM: Chapel Choir Alumni Sing at the Princeton

ALL DAY Spring Lake Historical Society House Tour.

University Chapel. Members of the current choir and Alumni join together for one night. www.princeton.edu

7-10PM: Dance Under the Stars with members of the Central Jersey Dance organization. The event meets monthly at Hinds Plaza in Princeton and runs through September. www.princetonlibrary.org 8PM: The historic Princeton Triangle Show at McCarter Theatre of Princeton (also on Saturday, May 30). www.mccarter.org

SATURDAY, MAY 30 10AM-2PM: The Arts Council of Princeton hosts Plein Air Painting at the Stony Brook-Millstone Watershed. Participants will explore 19th century traditions of watercolor painting outdoors. www. artscouncilofprinceton.org

TUESDAY, JUNE 2

FRIDAY, JUNE 12 8PM: Tony-Award-winning musical, The 25th Annual Putnam County Spelling Bee at McCarter Theatre (through June 28). www.mccarter.org

SATURDAY, JUNE 13 6:30-10PM: The Historical Society of Princeton’s

Visit a selection of beautifully appointed historic homes in New Jersey’s “town by the sea.” www.visitspringlake. com

Concert Under the Stars at Updike Farmstead. This year’s fundraiser will feature a live performance by Charlotte Kendrick and her four-piece band. www. princetonhistory.org

SATURDAY, JUNE 6

7:30PM: Mozart’s The Marriage of Figaro at McCarter

9AM: Start of the 2015 Princeton Festival, which includes opera, orchestral, jazz, and vocal performances at locations in and around the Princeton area. www. princetonfestival.org

11AM-4PM: Grounds for Sculpture’s Anniversary Arts Party. Celebrate GFS’s birthday with art workshops, cake, and everyone’s favorite peacock calling contest. www.groundsforsculpture.org

7PM: The Greater Princeton Youth Orchestra performs at Richardson Auditorium in Princeton. www.gpyo.org

Theatre in Princeton (also on June 21 and June 28). www.mccarter.org

SUNDAY, JUNE 14 3PM: The 5th Annual Burger Brawl in downtown Philadelphia. Try delicious burgers from over 50 different Philly restaurants and cast your vote to determine the city’s top burger. Proceeds help fund literacy programming for Philadelphia’s public schools. www.phillyburgerbrawl.com 4PM: The Eastern Wind Symphony performs at Richardson Auditorium in Princeton. www.princeton. edu/richaud

PRINCETON MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2015

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MAY 28

JULY 2

JUNE 4

JUNE 20 JUNE 21

MONDAY, JUNE 15

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 24

FRIDAY, JULY 10

12PM: Flag Day Ceremony on the plaza at Princeton

10AM-3PM: The Garden Club of Spring Lake’s Annual

7PM: Trenton Thunder vs. Richmond at Arm & Hammer Park

Township Hall. This national holiday commemorates the adoption of the American ﬂag on June 14, 1777. www.spiritofprinceton.org

Seaside Garden Tour. www.gardenclubofspringlake.org

in Trenton (through July 13). www.trentonthunder.com

THURSDAY, JUNE 25

SATURDAY, JULY 11

6-8PM: Start of the Summer Courtyard Concert Series at

10AM-5PM: Blueberry Bash at Terhune Orchards in Princeton (also on July 12). www.terhuneorchards.com

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 17 8PM: Lucinda Williams performs at the Bergen

Princeton Shopping Center (through August 27). www. princetonshoppingcenter.com

Performing Arts Center in Englewood. www. bergenpac.org

SATURDAY, JUNE 27

THURSDAY, JUNE 18 7PM: Ball on the Square in Philadelphia’s Rittenhouse Square. Join hundreds of guests for an outdoor black tie party that raises funds to help preserve and maintain Philadelphia’s beloved park. www. friendsofrittenhouse.org

SATURDAY, JUNE 20 9AM-2PM: Ocean City’s Antique Auto Festival on the Tabernacle Grounds. Over 300 vintage vehicles will be on display. The event will be followed by a boardwalk parade. www.oceancityvacation.com

6-11PM: JaZam’s Summer Block Party and Movie on

10AM: Opening of “Painting on Paper: American Watercolors at Princeton” at the Princeton University Art Museum (through August 30). www.artmuseum. princeton.edu

WEDNESDAY, JULY 1 9:30-11PM: Explore the gardens and grounds of Longwood Gardens by night with the exhibit “Nightscape,” a light and sound experience that melds nature and sound (through October 31). www. longwoodgardens.org

THURSDAY, JULY 2 9PM: Independence Day Fireworks. The best viewing

Palmer Square Green. Princeton’s favorite local toy store celebrates summer with an evening of crafts, activities, food, and fun. www.palmersquare.com

site is from the Princeton University sports ﬁelds adjacent to the University Stadium. Fields open at 7PM for picnicking. www.spiritofprinceton.org

8PM: Singer-songwriter Norah Jones performs

SATURDAY, JULY 4

at Count Basie Theatre in Red Bank. www. countbasietheatre.org

SUNDAY, JUNE 21 4-9PM: Fireﬂy Festival at Terhune Orchards in

2PM: July 4th Jubilee at Morven Museum & Garden in Princeton. The event includes live music on Morven’s front porch, BBQ, and a special appearance by Benjamin Franklin! www.morven.org

SUNDAY, JULY 12 9:30AM-4:30 PM: Celebrate the artist Andrew Wyeth’s birthday at The Brandywine River Museum of Art in Chadds Ford, Pa. Free museum admission to all visitors. www.brandywinemuseum.org

SATURDAY, JULY 18 NOON Yoga in the Garden at Morven Museum & Garden. Instructors from Gratitude Yoga will lead participants through a free, outdoor yoga class (repeats every month through October). www.morven.org

FRIDAY, JULY 24 8PM: Tony Bennett and Lady Gaga perform live at the Borgata Hotel Casino and Spa in Atlantic City. www. atlanticcitynj.com

SUNDAY, JULY 26 11:30AM-5PM: Celebrate pigeons, paper clips, and argyle socks with everyone’s favorite Sesame Street pal, Bert, at Sesame Place in Langhorne, Pa. The birthday style celebration includes singing, dancing, dining, and amusement park rides. www.sesameplace.com

Princeton. Art, games for kids, and ﬁreﬂy hunting. www.terhuneorchards.com

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Photograph by David Newton Dunn.

| the last word

Richard Tang Yuk Opera and Orchids: From Piano Lessons in the Caribbean to the Princeton Festival Interview by Nancy Plum

ichard Tang Yuk is General and Artistic Director of The Princeton Festival, which will be opening its 11th season in June. A native of the Republic of Trinidad and Tobago, Dr. Tang Yuk is a Licentiate of the Royal Schools of Music (UK) and holds degrees in conducting from the Mannes College of Music and the Indiana University, Jacobs School of Music. From 19942009, Dr. Tang Yuk was Director of Choral Music and Associate Director of the Program in Musical Performance at Princeton University, during which time he led the Princeton Glee Club on eight overseas concert tours, including appearances in Hong Kong, Brazil, Italy and Argentina. Dr. Tang Yuk was instrumental in the founding of The Princeton Festival, and is at the heart of its creative planning and vision. Since its inception he has overseen the expansion of the Festival to its current offerings of opera, musical theater, dance, chamber music, jazz, world music, a piano competition, baroque orchestra, a conducting workshop, and a lecture series. What was your music education growing up in the Republic of Trinidad and Tobago? I started piano lessons at age seven and had a voracious appetite for learning new pieces. However in those days without the Internet, it was difficult to come by published scores on a Caribbean island. During my secondary school education, I was fortunate to have an outstanding music teacher who had been trained at the Royal College of Music, London. I credit her for being a big inspiration in my early music education. I also took theory and counterpoint

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lessons with a British expatriate living in Trinidad who introduced me to the symphonies of Brahms and Sibelius, repertoire which I treasure so much today. When did you decide to become a conductor? I don’t know that I decided at a particular point in time. I do remember assembling my neighbors and friends at my home into a motley chorus when I was about fifteen. I knew nothing about conducting then, but making music together was fun. Before I had any formal training in conducting, I had formed a choir and conducted several concerts and musicals in Trinidad. When did you first learn about opera? When I was about eleven years old, I was one of the three spirits in a production of Mozart’s Die Zauberflöte [The Magic Flute]. I found opera to be so intriguing and caught the bug, as they say. From that point on I was eager to learn other operas. The next operas I encountered, through singing in the chorus, were Beethoven’s Fidelio, Bizet’s Carmen, and Strauss’s Die Fledermaus. When I came to New York as a student, my world exploded with exposure to Alban Berg’s Wozzeck at the Metropolitan Opera. What is the best part of being a conductor? Continuous learning. I love learning a new score, learning from the orchestra about the possibilities of expression, learning from the singers about different views on interpretation, learning about historical context and what it might have

PRINCETON MAGAZINE may/june 2015

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been like for audiences of that time, learning about gesture and how it profoundly affects what one hears in performance, and learning about leadership and how the dynamics of teamwork work in real time.

or interpretation on standard works, sometimes successfully and sometimes not so. The challenge is to make it relevant for today’s audiences while staying true to the composer and librettist’s intentions.

How did Princeton Festival come to be? A couple friends invited me to have lunch with them in January 2004 to discuss starting a new company after the demise of The Opera Festival of New Jersey, with which I had worked for 10 seasons. This began a series of conversations over the better part of a year, which resulted in a multi-genre summer performing arts festival. We incorporated as a non-profit in late 2004 with our first public performances given in June 2005 at the Kirby Arts Center at the Lawrenceville School.

What is new this year for the Festival? We have added country music, with the group Striking Matches, as well as Indian music and Kathak dance performed by the ensemble Pradhanica.

What is your role as Artistic Director of the Festival? I propose a season to the Board of Trustees, and then am responsible for implementing it, which means everything from auditions and casting of the opera and musical to hiring the artists for all the performance events, hiring the production team, and scheduling rehearsals. I’m also the General Director of the company, so I oversee a lot of the administrative side of things as well. What do you listen for when you audition singers for the Festival? Above all, I look for an ability to connect with the listener. Of course all the technical aspects have to be in place: pitch, rhythm, breath control, etc. But I am looking at a bigger picture—how confident is this artist, what stagecraft skills do they have, are they musical, and can they move me emotionally with their singing? Auditions last approximately ten minutes, but we can tell in thirty seconds or less whether a particular singer has this innate ability to connect with an audience. What do you think about the current state of opera? Statistics show that opera audiences are actually growing nationwide. There are now more opera companies in the United States than in any other country; however, there is always the challenge of balancing traditional repertoire with interesting lesser-performed works. Many productions of opera today try to create a new spin

Who is your favorite composer and why? I don’t know if any musician can cite one “favorite” composer. Different composers appeal to musicians in different ways, whether it is the craftsmanship and complexity of Bach, the simplicity and beauty of Mozart, the innovation of Stravinsky, the original idiom of Britten, or the mesmerizing impact of John Adams. What is the best part of being back in Princeton? Being close to the Festival and my network of friends and colleagues, knowing exactly in which aisle in the supermarket I can find something I need, and proximity to New York and all it has to offer. Do you have any hobbies or interests your audiences would be surprised to know? I’m an avid horticulturist, more specifically, cultivating orchids. I find the evolution of certain species of orchids and their strategies for pollination and survival to be fascinating. Why does a particular species emit this scent? Why this shape and color of flower? Why 100,000 seeds from one single seedpod? And the considerations of each species’ natural environment: why does Dendrobium aggregatum not flower unless there is a dry spell lasting five months without a drop of water? Dr. Tang Yuk and Princeton audiences will soon be able to enjoy both flowers and music as Princeton Festival heads into full bloom this summer.

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