Trail of wooden buildings and churches in Wielkopolska by Wielkopolska Organizacja Turystyczna

Trail of wooden buildings and churches in Wielkopolska

WARSZAWA

Windmills at the open-air museum in Osiek nad Notecią, photo: Archive of the District Office in Piła

Trail of wooden buildings and churches in Wielkopolska

www.wielkopolska.travel www.turystyka-kulturowa-wlkp.pl

Hurry to visit the wooden churches and secular buildings, they pass away so fast – one is tempted to paraphrase the famous words by Jan Twardowski - a poet and priest who said “Hurry to love people, they pass away so fast”. Unfortunately, wood is not a permanently lasting construction material. It is enough to look at the figures: according to Liber beneficiorum by Archbishop Jan Łaski, in the early 16th century there were 482 wooden churches in the then Archdio-

cese of Gniezno while today in Wielkopolska (a similar area) there are 230 surviving examples of religious architecture, according to the authors of the monograph entitled “Wooden Churches in Wielkopolska”. The situation is similar in the case of windmills, which are a distinguishing mark of this region. In the 18th century there were 3,500 and currently there are only a few hundred of them.

Prayer and the smell of wood

I Poznań – Chludowo – Oborniki – Wełna – Potulice - Tarnowo Pałuckie – Podlesie Kościelne - Popowo Kościelne - Jabłkowo – Kiszkowo - Gniezno or Poznań (accomodation)

Wooden churches in Poland, including those in Wielkopolska, are our distinguishing mark and a characteristic feature of our architecture in comparison with the rest of Europe. They bewitch with their simplicity, unusual architectural designs, aesthetic finesse and the intangible, almost impossible to describe, atmosphere which also includes the scents. One could ask the question: why wood? It is simple - in the Polish land wood was very easily accessible, and what is most important – the cheapest construction material. This is confirmed by various facts, for instance: the very first church of the Five Martyr Brothers in Międzyrzecz reportedly was built of wood. Significantly, wooden churches were built in small settlements whose owners could not afford to build more expensive, brick structures, even though the wooden buildings could burn down... In such case the new church would again be built of wood. Wooden churches in Wielkopolska do not differ in terms of their structure from wooden churches in other regions of Poland. The differences are limited to details and furnishings. Most often we can encounter buildings representing the “log cabin” style construction. The logs were placed horizontally one on top of the other and in the corners they were joined by means of various types of notches. Initially round logs were used, later they were hewn or grated to achieve a rectangular cross-section. Less frequently in Wielkopolska we can encounter frame constructions, also known as a timber-frame or post and beam structure. In this case vertical poles were joined at the top, at the bottom and crosswise by beams to create frames and braces, which were then filled with clay, stone, brick... Then they were planked or plastered. This type of construction was presumably brought to Poland from the west and was typically used for building evangelical churches (at present churches using this type of construction can

roque interior. The main altar from the 18th century holds a painting of All Saints. The side altars date from a later period. Those entering are greatly impressed with the sculptures of Christ, the Mother of God and St. John which are placed on the profiled rood beam separating the nave from the chancel. Chludowo is a village in the commune of Suchy Las, located 18 kilometres north of Poznań, along the road to Oborniki. Other places worth visiting in the village include the palace, rebuilt after World War II, which currently is home to the Society of the Divine Word (Divine Word Missionaries). The missionaries have set up here the Museum of the Mission and Ethnography. Next to the palace we can see the bust of Roman Dmowski, the former owner of the estate, and Saint Arnold Janssen the founder of the Society of the Divine Word.

Chludowo It would be hard to find a better place to start. The wooden church of All Saints in Chludowo is a typical example of log construction, which is the most common in the wooden religious architecture of Wielkopolska. The one-room church was erected in 1736. There are two adjoining chapels, from the north and south. The chancel is based on a triangular floor plan. From afar you can see the tower holding a small bell and covered with a metal spire. The church enchants with its Ba-

Church of All Saints 62 -001 Chludowo, ul. Kościelna 4 tel. 61 811 65 02

Church in Oborniki, photo: Z. Schmidt

Oborniki Some townspeople used to be very generous. In 1766 a woman of this social group funded the church in Oborniki. The building is supported on a frame structure, filled in with bricks and then plastered. The church in Oborniki has one nave and a narrower chancel closed with a triangle-shaped wall. The tower over the vestibule is topped with a bulbous spire covered with sheet metal and holding a lamp. The ceiling is ornamented with a polychrome from the 1920s. The interior is predominantly Baroque, although the sculpture of Christ Crucified in the main altar is older (16th century). The figure of Mary Magdalene kneeling at the cross dates from the 18th century. An inscription on the rood beam says: “This Church of the Holy Cross was built in 1766 A.D. and funded by Ł. �� Łyczykowska”. Oborniki, a district town, is about 30 kilometres north of Poznań. Buildings in the town centre date mainly from the late

Church in Śmigiel, photo: Z. Schmidt

most often be seen in Czarnkowsko-Trzcia�� necki and Pilski Districts). In Wielkopolska you can also see many buildings of vertical-post log construction. In this case horizontal beams are placed between posts with notched grooves. Religious wooden architecture can be encountered throughout Wielkopolska, yet it is least frequent in the northern and western regions. We suggest five routes. From each of them you can come back to Poznań for the night, or you can arrange 2, 3 or 4 day trips (and spend the nights in Gniezno, Konin and Kalisz). We also suggest a separate trip to Słopanowo, a village located away from any of the trails of wooden churches.

17th early 18th century. Results of tests involving the materials used for the construction of the ceilings and the tower constitute an argument for the later date. The single-nave church of St. Nicholas is a log-cabin structure. The chancel is narrower and closed with a straight wall. Adjoining the nave in the south is a small vestibule and in the west – a tower. The nave is covered with a ceiling and the chancel vault consists of faux wooden beams. In addition to its age, the noteworthy features of the church include the polychromes from circa. 1639 by Walenty Podczosik from Kcynia. The paintings depict scenes from the lives of St. Nicholas and St. Margaret (walls of the nave). The ceiling is covered with a representation of the Adoration of the Holy Trinity and coffers with images of the prophets. The chancel walls are impressive with the beautiful paintings depicting scenes from the New Testament. The chancel vault is embellished with floral motifs. The main altar in the late Renaissance style contains a painting of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary in the middle, and images of St. Nicholas and St. Margaret on the sides. The side altars are Baroque in style. Tarnowo Pałuckie, a village on Lake Rgielsko, is 6 kilometres north-east of Wągrowiec, along the road to Inowrocław. From Tarnowo you can pay a short visit to Łekno, where you can see the late Gothic church of Saints Peter and Paul from the mid-16th century. On the western shore of Lake Łeknieńskie is a place called Klasztorek. Archaeological findings here include the walls of a castle from the early Piast dynasty times, and foundations of a preRomanesque rotunda church from the mid 11th century holding a Romanesque cloister church which was built later.

Interior of the church in Wełna, photo: Z. Schmidt Church in Potulice, photo: Archive of the Commune Office in Wągrowiec

19th and early 20th century. We can also see a few Art Nouveau style houses.

and walls are covered with polychromes by Adam Swach, which depict scenes related to the legend and cult of the Holy Cross: “Emperor Constantine’s Vision” (in the chancel), “Finding of the True Cross by St. Helena” (at the ceiling of the nave) and the figures of Christ, Mary and the apostles (on the walls of the chancel and nave). The furnishings date from the time the church was built. Wełna, village in the commune of Rogoźno, is located along the Wełna river (6 kilometres north of the road from Poznań to Piła). It is a good idea to take a walk along the river, which is truly picturesque in this area. Other landmarks here include the palace from the second half of the 18th century, and a 19th century watermill.

Church of the Holy Cross At the intersection of Obrzycka and Czarnkowska Streets 64-600 Oborniki Wielkopolskie Parafia Miłosierdzia Bożego tel. 61 297 00 95 Wełna Who would think that such a jewel could be found in a small village...The most beautiful features of the Church of the Elevation of the Holy Cross in Wełna are the polychromes. This place of worship was built in 1727 by castellan Wojciech Rydzyński, the owner of the village. It represents a log-cabin structure with outer planking. The nave is surrounded by an enclosed and roofed passage-way whose Polish name can be translated into “Saturdays” (they provided shelter for those arriving one day earlier for Sunday mass). At the nave’s sides are two chapels, forming a kind of transept. Even though it is a single-nave church, there are two sacristies next to the chancel. In the northern part of the nave there is a choir gallery connected with balconies located along the northern and southern walls of the nave. The ceiling

Church of the Elevation of the Holy Cross Wełna Parish of the Blessed Virgin Mary Queen of the World 64-608 Parkowo, tel. 67 261 05 28 Potulice The Church of St. Catherine was built by Aleksander Samuel Biegański in 1728. Log-cabin construction was used here. Adjoining the rectangular nave there

Interior of the church in Tarnowo Pałuckie, photo: Z. Schmidt

is a narrower chancel closed with a triangleshaped wall, and on its western side –the post-and-beam structure of the tower with a vestibule in the ground floor. Later a sacristy and the tomb chapel of the Biegański family were added next to the northern wall. The roof is covered with shingles. Potulice, village in the commune of Wągrowiec, is located 6 kilometres north of Rogoźno. It also features the Biegański family Manor House surrounded by a romanticstyle park. Church of St. Catherine Potulice 62-100 Wągrowiec, tel. 67 261 68 84 Tarnowo Pałuckie Considered to be the oldest religious wooden building in Wielkopolska, in fact the origins of the church are a topic of dispute. The latest dendrological tests showed that the wood used for the construction of the chancel, a part of the nave and the sacristy was chopped in the 4th quarter of the 1300s. Other researchers claim that the construction material was used here for the second time, because the architecture of the church suggests it was created in the late

Church of St. Nicholas Tarnowo Pałuckie Parish of Saints Peter and Paul 62-105 Łekno, ul. Poprzeczna 3 tel. 61 261 60 84

Church in Podlesie Kościelne, photo: Z. Schmidt Church in Jabłkowo, photo: Z. Schmidt

Podlesie Kościelne The Church of St. Anne from 1712 was built with a rectangular floor plan and a narrower chancel closed with a straight wall. This is a log-cabin structure with outer planking. The nave is topped with a beam ceiling and the chancel with a barrel vault. The interior makes a great impression with its colours constituting a mixture of natural wood, and the dominating shades of red and green. The main altar is a combination of three different parts dating from the 18th century. Podlesie Kościelne, a village in the commune of Mieścisko, is located 10 kilometres south-east of Wągrowiec along the road from Mieścisko to Skoki.

choir gallery and window frames are ornamented with floral motifs. The 17th century altar contains an image of The Virgin Mary with Baby Jesus. The rood beam holds a 16th century crucifix as well as figures of the Mother of God and St. John, from the 1700s. Popowo Kościelne is a village in the commune of Mieścisko. Besides the historic church there is a noteworthy mansion from the early 20th century, surrounded by a park.

Church of St. Anne 62-285 Podlesie Kościelne tel. 61 427 88 91

Jabłkowo

Church of the Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin Mary 62-285 Popowo Kościelne 24 tel. 61 427 88 98

Popowo Kościelne Three kilometres from Podlesie Kościelne is the village of Popowo Kościelne. Here you can see the wooden church of the Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin Mary from 1629. During alteration works in 1720 two side chapels were added. This singlenave church with a chancel closed with a triangle-shaped wall represents log-cabin construction type. The tower is topped with a bulbous spire with a lamp. The ceilings,

The interior of the church of St. Michael the Archangel overflows with Baroque. The patron’s image is extremely lively and colourful. The Baroque grandeur of the side altars contrasts with the ascetic crucifix on the rood beam. The church in Jabłkowo was erected in 1754. It has a rectangular floor plan, and a narrower chancel closed with a triangleshaped wall. Its builders used the log-cabin construction type. The village is located along the road from Mieścisko to Skoki. You can also see a palace from the first half of the 19th century

Church in Kcin, photo: Z. Schmidt

Interior of the church in Kiszkowo, photo: Z . Schmidt

II Poznań - Kicin - Wierzenica – Czerlejno – Gułtowy – Giecz – Września – Słupca – Golina - Kazimierz Biskupi Konin IIA Gniezno – Niechanowo – Brudzewo – Staw – Słupca – Golina - Kazimierz Biskupi -Konin (accommodation or coming back to Poznań)

surrounded by a park here. Church of St. Michael the Archangel Jabłkowo (branch church) Parish in Raczkowo tel. 61 427 93 17 Kiszkowo

Kicin

One of the reasons that church of St. John the Baptist in Kiszkowo is worth vi�� siting is the Pietà from the second half of the 17th century. The church was built in 1733, as an expansion of the previously existing brick chapel. This is a log-cabin structure with outer planking. Kiszkowo, a village holding the commune authorities, is located 27 kilometres from Gniezno. The place has retained a “spindle-shaped” urban layout with a market square in the middle. In the proximity there is a Marian sanctuary in Górka Duchowna and the oldest complex of pine and larch forest in Wielkopolska.

The single-nave church, of log-cabin type structure with outer planking and featuring a chancel closed off with a triangle-shaped wall, stands on a hill. It was built in 1749 – 1751. The ceilings and side walls are ornamented with early 20th century polychromes. The Rococo and neo-Baroque furnishings date from earlier times. Kicin is worth visiting at Christmas time for the smell of hay used in the traditional nativity scene decorations. Kicin is located 10 kilometres north-east of Poznań. Church of St. Joseph 62-004 Kicin, ul. Kościelna 2 tel. 61 812 70 22

Church of St. John the Baptist 62-280 Kiszkowo, ul. Gnieźnieńska 3 tel. 61 427 60 56

Wierzenica

This church ranks among the oldest religious buildings in Wielkopolska. It

times of King Bolesław Chrobry it was a major administrative, military and economic centre of Wielkopolska. Since the 18th century the area of the former castle has been called Grodziszczko. In 1963 an archaeological reserve and museum were opened here. The Romanesque church has the graves of the following people: architect Stanisław Hebanowski who designed mansions and palaces in Wielkopolska and his grandson – the legendary literary director of Teatr Polski in Poznań – Stulek Hebanowski. Interior of the church in Gułtowy, photo: Z. Schmidt

was presumably built in the third quarter of the 16th century. From 1589 to 1598 it was in the hands of people following a different religion. In the early 1600s a brick sacristy was added to it, and in 1724 – a tower. Ca. 1870 a tomb chapel of the Cieszkowski family was built. The interior features Baroque altars from the late 17th century. The northern wall of the nave holds a tombstone of the philosopher August Cieszkowski, designed by Stefan Cybichowski, with two-winged doors designed by Teofil Lenartowicz. The philosopher’s bust was sculpted by Antoni Madeyski. The village is located 6 kilometres from Swarzędz. It was home to a remarkable philosopher of the Romantic period - August Cieszkowski, who used to host visits of Zygmunt Krasiński. We can also see here a manor house from the second half of the 19th century.

can admire the vaults embellished with coffers and supported by poles, which creates an impression that there are three naves. The altars are in the Rococo style. The sculptures on the rood beam date from the latter half of the 16th century and were brought here from an older church. The village is located 5 kilometres south of Kostrzyn. A palace from the early 20th century is currently a school. Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary 63-005 Czerlejno, ul. Kostrzyńska 1 tel. 61 817 85 83 Gułtowy The construction of the church of St. Casimir started in 1737. Its timber frame was infilled with bricks, and the walls inside were planked. The chancel is narrower and has a tri-lateral shape. It is adjoined by a sacristy, with a private lodge of the church founders on the first floor. Inside, the ceiling of the church has the form of a barrel vault, and the wooden supporting columns mark narrow side naves. On the vaults of the main nave we can admire 18th century polychromes depicting the Apotheosis of St. Casimir. On the chancel vault we can see an image of the Mother of God surrounded by angels. The choir gallery is noteworthy for

Church of St. Nicholas 62-006 Wierzenica, ul. Wierzenicka 12 tel. 61 897 33 04 Czerlejno The church was erected in 1743 as a log-cabin type structure with outer planking. The tower and the vestibule were added fifty years later. It features a rectangular layout and a slightly narrower chancel closed with a triangle-shaped wall. In the main nave we

Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary Giecz, 63-012 Dominowo, ul. Grodziszczko 2 tel. 61 285 92 76

Church inWrześnia, photo: Z. Schmidt

Church in Wierzenica, photo: Z. Schmidt

the interesting shape of its balustrade and the musical motifs of the polychrome. The altars and figures represent Baroque and Rococo styles. Gułtowy is located 10 kilometres south-east of Kostrzyn. In the village we can see a restored Classicist and Baroque palace of the Bniński family. Its interior holds a large ball room with paintings attributed to Antoni Smuglewicz. In the surrounding park there is an outbuilding and an Lshaped coach house.

Września The Chapel of the Holy Cross in Lipówka was built in 1674. A legend says that the place used to hold a miraculous spring, whose water lost its healing properties over time. The chapel with a rectangular layout is a log-cabin type structure. Its notable feature is the overhanging edge of the roof. In its interior, we can see polychromes dating from the third quarter of the 19th century and altars from the 17th and 18th century. Września, a district town, is located 45 kilometres from Poznań. In its centre there is a quadrilateral town square. We can also see here a neo-Gothic town hall at Jana Pawła II Street, and an elementary school from the second half of the 18th century at Dzieci Wrzesińskich Street, which currently holds a museum presenting the history of the struggle for the national independence in the Prussian Partition. It is a good idea to take a look at the Town Parish Church from the mid-15th century.

Church of St. Casimir 62-025 Gułtowy, ul. Pałacowa 8 tel. 61 818 04 64 Giecz A village with two religious buildings: a Romanesque church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary from the second half of the 12th century and a wooden church of St. John the Baptist and Our Lady of Consolation, presumably erected in 1767 (in the area called Grodziszczko). The latter is a single-nave, log-cabin type structure with planking. It is closed by a narrower chancel with three-fold outer wall. It features Baroque interior furnishings. The village is located 12 kilometres north-east of Środa Wielkopolska. In the

Chapel of the Holy Cross 62-300 Września, ul. Świętokrzyska 20 tel. 61 436 15 16

Słupca

south-east of Gniezno along the road to Słupca. Other attractions include a Baroque and Classicist palace, and an 18th century landscape park.

This wooden church of extraordinary beauty dates from the 1500s, and is an example of log-cabin construction with planking. The single-nave structure features a narrower and lower chancel with multiangle outer walls. The nave is adjoined by two symmetrically laid out chapels: the southern is devoted to the Holy Cross and the northern to St. Leonard. The chapel of the Holy Cross (having the status of a sanctuary) holds a Baroque altar with a Gothic crucifix (known for its miraculous powers). The chapel of St. Leonard makes a great impression with its Baroque altar holding a painting of the Saint from ca. 1430. Looking at the chancel, we can delight in the late Renaissance main altar from the early 1600s with a bas-relief depicting the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and sculptures of St. Leonard and St. John the Baptist. Słupca, a district town, is located approx. 20 kilometres from Września along the road to Konin. It is a good idea to visit the Gothic church of St. Lawrence. The town also has its own Regional Museum and – on the outskirts - an artificial lake called Słupeckie.

Church of St. James the Apostle 62-220 Niechanowo, ul. Różana 54 tel. 61 427 21 89 Brudzewo

Church in Kazimierz Biskupi, photo: Z. Schmidt

Church of St. James the Apostle 62-590 Golina, ul. Wolności 2a tel. 63 241 80 14 Kazimierz Biskupi The church of St. Isaac is located within a cemetery. It was built in 1793. The main part of the log church has a nearly square layout while the chancel has a rectangular floor plan. Its admirable features include the Empire-style altar holding an image of St. Isaac, a rarely encountered patron saint in Wielkopolska. Kazimierz Biskupi, a village holding commune authorities, is located 12 kilometres north-west of Konin, along the road to Kleczew. It is better known for the cult of the Five Martyr Brothers. The village was established by Duke Kazimierz Odnowiciel who relocated here the Order of St. Benedict from the village of Święty Wojciech, where Polish and Italian monks had presumably died martyr’s death. The church of St. Martin retains a wooden ceiling with the painting of the Five Martyr Brothers. In another part of the village there is the post-Bernardine monastery from the first half of the 1500s, currently home to the Missionaries of the Holy Family. Sculptures of the saints dating from the 1500s can be admired in the church

Church of St. Leonard and the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (also known as a sanctuary of the Holy Cross) 62-400 Słupca, ul. Sienkiewicza 11 tel. 63 275 19 71 Golina The Church of St. James the Apostle was designated to be transferred to the open air museum in Dziekanowice, yet the local residents of Golina objected to that decision. The log church with planked walls dates from the second half of the 18th century. Its three-nave structure is closed with a narrower chancel with triangular outer walls. It features Baroque furnishings. The town is located 11 kilometres before Konin, along the road from Słupca. The historical street layout has been preserved.

The wooden church of St. Mary Magdalene was erected in 1826. The singlenave interior closes with a narrower chancel with multi-angle outer walls. Its most beautiful and valuable feature is the sculpture of the Mother of God with Baby Jesus in the style of the Beautiful Madonnas, dating from ca. 1429. Brudzewo is a village located approx. 10 kilometres north-west of Słupca.

Interior of the church in Niechanowo, photo: Z. Schmidt

of St. John the Baptist and the Five Martyr Brothers. In the monastery you can see ethnographic collections acquired throughout the world by the missionaries.

Church of St. Mary Magdalene 62-422 Brudzewo 35 tel. 63 275 91 29

Church of St. Isaac Parish of St. Martin ul. Konińska 5 62-530 Kazimierz Biskupi tel. 63 24 11 200

Staw Church of Hedwig of Silesia dates from the late 1700s. Like many others in this area it is a log building with planking on its outer walls. The roofs are covered with metal sheets. The furnishings include Rococo-style doors dated to 1854, the main altar in the late Renaissance style (holding a crucifix from the late 17th/early 18th century), as well as Rococo side altars. We can also see two contemporary stained-glass windows by Maria Powalisz-Bardońska, an artist from Poznań. Staw is a village in the commune of Strzałkowo, located 8 kilometres north of Słupca.

IIA Gniezno Niechanowo The Church of St. James was built in 1776. In the early 20th century it was thoroughly reconstructed: the tower was moved to another location, the main nave was prolonged, and the sacristy was added. The log church with planking on its outer walls and plastered inner walls, has Baroque and Rococo furnishings. There are visible references to Italian art – the figure of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception from 1868 and the tombstone of Franciszek Żółtowski and his wife Zofia. This village holding commune authorities is located approx. 10 kilometres

Church of Hedwig of Silesia Staw 1, 62-420 Strzałkowo tel. 63 275 91 07

features Baroque furnishings. The rood beam holds a noteworthy figure of Madonna and Child, with references to the Gothic style. This large village is located 5 kilometres from Stawiszyn, along the road from Kalisz to Konin. Church of St. Ursula 62-830 Zbiersk 140 tel. 62 7520 523 Blizanów

Church in Rzgów, photo: Z. Schmidt

This old church dating from 1532 is a log construction with planking on its outer walls and a square floor plan. The nave adjoins a narrower chancel . The interior features Rococo altars from the 18th century. Next to the church there is a wooden belfry. One of the side altars holds a painting of St. Thecla. This village holding commune authorities is located 8 kilometres west of Stawiszyn.

III Konin – Rzgów (to Rychwał) – Zbiersk – Blizanów (you can take a detour to Russów) – Żegocin – Kalisz Rzgów Church of St. James the Apostle was built in the first half of the 1500s. The tower was added in 1790. This single-nave church is log-cabin type construction with planking and features a narrower chancel with three-fold outer wall. An eight-sided chapel adjoins the church in its northern part. The nave and chancel are topped with one metal-sheet roof, and the chapel with a tented roof with a bulbous cupola and lamp. The interior features Baroque furnishings from the 17th and 18th century. This village holding commune authorities is located 16 kilometres south-west of Konin along the road towards Zagórów.

Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary 62-814 Blizanów tel. 62 751 10 84 Żegocin The origins of Żegocin as a cult place are described by a legend which says that the painting with miraculous powers was brought here from a church formerly existing in the nearby village of Łęg. Other sources add that it was brought to Żegocin for safety reasons, because the latter church often experienced floods caused by the overflowing Prosna river. This log church with planking on its outer walls was built in 1714. The interior features Baroque and Rococo furnishings. The main altar from the early 1700s holds gilded figures of the angels: Michael and Gabriel as well as Simeon and Aaron. On the entablature we can see the scene of the Coronation of the Virgin and figures of the Four

Church of St. James the Apostle 62-586 Rzgów, ul. Zagórowska 5 tel. 63 241 90 05 Zbiersk The Church of St. Ursula was built in 1759. In 1879 the wooden chancel was replaced with a brick structure. A western vestibule and sacristy were also added. The church represents the vertical-post log construction (rarely encountered in our region), and its outer walls are planked. The interior

IV Kalisz – Mikstat – Ostrzeszów – Na Pólku (Bralin) - (along the way you can make a detour to Antonin) - Ostrów Wielkopolski - Dobrzyca - Golina k. Jarocina -Poznań

Evangelists. The altar also holds an image of Madonna and Child, dated to the first half of the 17th century, and with its style making a reference to Our Lady of the Snows (Salus Populi Romani). The difference is that in the original image the Baby is holding a book in his hand, and in Żegocin – an apple. The Madonna is wearing a dark green coat and Jesus – a red dress. Angels are holding up Mary’s crown. Below the painting there is an inscription: „Sancta Dei Genitrix ora pro nobis”. Mary and the Child are decorated with a silver dress which is mounted on a crescent, underneath we can see a sculpture depicting torments in Purgatory. The painting is concealed by an image of the Annunciation. Żegocin is small village located 12 kilometres north of Pleszew. We can also see here an 18th century Baroque palace and outbuilding amidst a neglected park (old trees). Outside the village, to the north-west there is a wooden windmill from the mid19th century.

Mikstat The Church of St. Roch in Mikstat is currently located within a cemetery in the southern part of the town. It was built in 1773. Like most wooden churches in Wielkopolska it is a log-cabin type structure. Its floor plan is based on the Greek Cross, while the chancel and the arms of the transept are enclosed within a threefold outer wall. Over the intersection of the nave and the transept there is a tiny tower with a small bell and lamp. Inside we can see vaults embellished with images of saints. The church functions as a sanctuary of St. Roch and is a pilgrims’ destination. We do not know much about this Saint. He presumably lived from 1295 to 1327. He was endowed with healing powers. Suspected of spying, he was thrown into prison, and tortured – he died five years later. Accord-

Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary Żegocin 39, 63-304 Czermin tel. 62 741 69 04

Church in Kalisz, photo: Z. Schmidt

Kalisz The Church of St. Adalbert was built in 1798. Like most churches in Wielkopolska it is a log structure with planking on its outer walls. The nave has a nearly square layout and is adjoined by a chancel with rectangular floor plan. The vestibule was built as a vertical-post log structure. The roofs are covered with shingles and the walls with polychromes. The Baroque main altar holds an image of the Virgin Mary and Baby Jesus. The church is located in the proximity of an archaeological reserve in Zawodzie. Church of St. Adalbert 62-800 Kalisz, ul. Bolesława Pobożnego 85 Parish of St. Gotthard ul. Kordeckiego 3, tel. 62 766 62 80

remains of walls – traces of a Gothic castle from the first half of the 1300s (north-west of the town square). In the northern part of the town we can see a post-Bernardine monastery today occupied by Sisters of the Holy Family of Nazareth. In the town there are a number of monuments and memorial plaques in honour of remarkable people: General Józef Haller, Henryk Sienkiewicz, Church in Ostrzeszów, photo: Z. Schmidt

Interior of the church in Bralin, photo: Z. Schmidt

of the road to Rychtal is a small wooden church, a real jewel of religious architecture in Poland. This is the Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Built in 1711, the church has a floor plan based on the cross with arms of equal length tapering outwards. Its interior is divided into five parts; the largest section – in

dark blue coat with purple lining which is flowing down from her shoulders. In her right hand she is holding a long sceptre, in her left hand she is supporting the child clad in a white, tulle dress. The child with his left hand is leaning against his mother’s arm, while his right palm is lifted in a gesture of blessing. The figures are placed against light blue background which turns darker in the lower part of the painting, whose edges are decorated with angels’ heads. The stylistic traits of the image suggest it was created in the 1600s. Bralin, a large village holding commune authorities, is located in Kępiński District. The origins of the settlement are disputable. According to some researchers they are connected with the Bull of Gniezno announced by Pope Innocent II in 1136, others assign the fact to a document issued on 12 July 1288 by Tomasz II, the Bishop of Wrocław. The village was granted municipal rights before 1540, and lost them ca. 1875. In the middle of the village there is a small market square, and in its vicinity The Church of St. Anne from 1672.

Church in Ostrów Wlkp., photo: Z. Schmidt

ing to father Wiesław Niewęgłowski, his innocence and holiness were revealed by an inscription which miraculously appeared on the prison walls: “Those who are hurt by pestilence and call on St. Roch as their intermediary and advocate, shall be healed”. The town is located approx. 12 kilometres north of Ostrzeszów. The oval-shaped centre holds a quadrilateral town square. Church of St. Roch 63-510 Mikstat tel. 62 731 00 06

Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary – Na Pólku 63-640 Bralin, ul. Wrocławska 58 tel. 62 781 20 10

Ostrzeszów Church of St. Nicholas was built in 1758 from larch wood. The nave with a nearly square layout adjoins a chancel which, together with the sacristy, is enclosed within a three-fold outer wall. Inside the walls and ceilings are covered with 18th century polychromes depicting the Four Evangelists. The late-Baroque main altar holds a late-Gothic figure of the patron saint. Generally the furnishings make references to these two styles. Ostrzeszów is a district town located 36 kilometres south-west of Kalisz. The church is located in the eastern part of the town. In the centre we can see a small quadrilateral market square with the town hall from 1840 (today housing the Regional Museum). Other noteworthy landmarks include the Gothic parish church located east of the town square, a defensive tower and

Ostrów Wielkopolski

Ignacy Moś – collector of Sienkiewicz memorabilia, Father Maksymilian Kolbe, Tadeusz Kościuszko, King Przemysł II… Church of St. Nicholas Parish of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary 63-500 Ostrzeszów, ul. Farna 5 tel. 62 730 32 34 Bralin South-east of Bralin, two kilometres away from the village, on the left side

The Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary – Queen of Poland in Ostrów Wielkopolski was built by Duke Józef Radziwiłł in 1788 to hold an Evangelical chapel. Since 1945 it has been used as a Catholic church. Its timber frame structure is infilled with bricks and its outer walls are covered with concrete panels. The singlenave church does not have a distinctive chancel section. From the west it is adjoined by a neo-Romanesque tower with a bulbous cupola. The noteworthy features of the interior include the two-floor matroneum along the side walls. The furnishings date from the late 1700s. Ostrów Wielkopolski is a town lo-

the middle – is topped with a barrel vault, the “arm” sections have flat ceilings. Four doors lead into the church. The main altar, dating from the first half of the 1700s, is a doublefaced structure and is surrounded with a balustrade with figures of angels in its four corners. The altar holds a painting known for its miraculous powers and depicting the complete figure of Virgin Mary with the Baby Jesus (the canvass with the oil painting is attached to a larch wood board which is 185 x 125cm). The Madonna is standing on a blue crescent supported on a red dragon. She is wearing a pink pleated dress, and a

V Poznań – Rogalinek (you can make a detour to Rogalin) – Błociszewo - Dolsk - Domachowo - Zakrzewo - Śmigiel Rakoniewice - Ruchocice - Grodzisk Wielkopolski - Granowo – Poznań

Golina

Interior of the church in Dobrzyca, photo: Z. Schmidt

cated approx. 23 kilometres south of Kalisz. The first historical references to the settlement date from 1404. The Mediaeval urban layout of the town was incorporated into the 19th century developments resulting from the growth of industry. In its centre with can see the town square with a town hall built to the design of Karl Friedrich Schinkel. In the vicinity there is a neo-Romanesque parish church built in 1903 – 1907 to the design of Roger Sławski. Inside we can see excellent sculptures by Władysław Marcinkowski and Marcin Rożek.

enclosed within a three-fold outer wall. The main altar holds an image of its patron, St. Thecla. The altars, baptismal font and pulpit are in Rococo style. The village with buildings typical of small towns is located approx. 12 kilometres west of Pleszew along the road to Koźmin. In the past the village had municipal rights, which can be seen in its quadrilateral market square. Tourists are drawn to Dobrzyca not so much by the wooden church of St. Thecla as by the palace and park complex of the Gorzeński family with the layout of a Masonic square (two wings creating the right angle). The interiors feature illusionist style paintings attributed to Antoni Smuglewicz. The landmark is unique for Poland because no other place retains such a complete painted decor so fully reflecting the approach typical of trompe l’oeil. The palace is surrounded with a beautiful landscaped park.

Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary – Queen of Poland 63-400 Ostrów Wielkopolski ul. Królowej Jadwigi 7, tel. 62 735 57 27 Dobrzyca The church was built in 1778, and represents a log-cabin type structure with planking on its outer walls. The elongated nave in its western side adjoins a chancel

The Church of St. Andrew is dated to the second half of the 16th century. During 1726 – 1743 it was thoroughly refurbished. Part of this wooden, one-nave church is covered with a half-timbered wall (10 x 22 metres); it has a distinctive chancel, and its style represents the so-called Wielkopolskatype Baroque. In addition to the main altar we can see here two side altars devoted to St. Benno and St. Anthony. Besides that there is a separate altarpiece with St. Joseph. All of these date from the second half of the 1600s. Other noteworthy features include the pulpit supported on St. Jonah, and the altar cloth embroidered in the unique local style. The image of Our Lady of Golina, renowned for its miraculous powers, is placed in the richly carved Baroque main altar from the 17th century. The painting depicts the Madonna and Child, and makes a reference to the image of Madonna della Vittoria. The Madonna is placed against a brown background which shifts towards gold and yellow in the vicinity of her slender stern-featured face. Her red dress with golden rim under her neck is covered with a grey and blue coat with golden lining. Her right hand is resting on her breast and with her left palm she is supporting the child wearing a white and grey dress. The child’s face has adult features. His left hand is holding the Gospel and his right palm is raised up. The painting dates from the 1600s (133 x 93 cm), the canvass with the oil painting is attached to a lime wood board. Golina is a village in the vicinity of Jarocin, located on the Lubieszka river.

Rogalinek The Church of St. Michael and Our Lady Who Helps Christians was built in the late 17th/early 18th century. The notable features of its construction include the so-called dovetail joints. The interior of the church is furnished with Baroque altars. Visitors’ attention is drawn to the matroneum gallery supported on decorative poles. Next to the church there is a wooden belfry with gable roof, from the late 1800s, representing post and beam construction and partly covered with planking. The village is located 4 kilometres east of Mosina, along the road to Kórnik. The church is situated on the bank of the Warta river. Church of St. Michael and Our Lady Who Helps Christians 62-050 Mosina, ul. Wodna 8, tel. 61 893 80 61 Błociszewo The Church of St. Michael the Archangel from 1736, which originally had a different layout, currently is a timber frame structure covered with planking. Inside its log walls were plastered. In 1939 Wacław Taranczewski embellished the ceiling with polychromes. The altars are in late Baroque style. In the early 1900s stained-glass windows were installed. The village is located 9 kilometres west of Śrem. It is a good idea to take a look at the neo-Baroque palace, currently holding a spa house. In front of the entrance gate there is a figure of Władysław Marcinkowski from the early 20th century.

Church of St. Andrew 63-200 Jarocin, Golina ul. ks. Szczepana Toboły 1 tel. 62 740 40 22

Church of St. Michael the Archangel 63-100 Błociszewo, ul. Kasztanowa 2 tel. 61 281 21 83

Church of St. Thecla 63-330 Dobrzyca, ul. Rynek 6 tel. 62 741 30 10

Województwo Lubuskie

RAKONIEWICE

RUCHOCICE

LESZNO

GRODZISK WLKP.

Województwo Zachodniopomorskie

GRANOWO

DOLSK

GIECZ

GNIEZNO

ANTONIN

OSTRÓW WLKP.

DOBRZYCA

GOLINA DOMACHOWO

ZAKRZEWO

POPOWO

WIERZENICA

PODLESIE

CZERLEJNO

KICIN

ROGALINEK

CHLUDOWO

OBORNIKI

POTULICE

TARNOWO

Województwo Pomorskie

BRALIN

KONIN

MIKSTAT

KALISZ

RUSSÓW

Województwo Opolskie

OSTRZESZÓW

ZEGOCIN

BLIZANÓW

ZBIERSK

RZGÓW

GOLINA

KAZIMIERZ BISKUPI

Województwo Kujawsko-Pomorskie

Church in Dolsk, photo: Z. Schmidt Church in Śmigiel, photo: Z. Schmidt

Dolsk The Church of the Holy Spirit in Dolsk was erected in the mid-15th century and until 1810 was used as a hospital chapel. The church represents the log-cabin type structure, with planking on its outer walls, whereas the sacristy is a timber frame construction. Polychromes date from the early 1900s. The interior features early Baroque altars and rood beam with a crucifix from the first half of the 16th century. Dolsk is a town located on moraine hills on a lake, 12 kilometres south of Śrem along the road to Gostyń. We can see here a town square with a town hall consisting of three buildings, as well as the late Gothic church of St. Michael (west of the town square). Next to the church there is an impressive rectory built during 1758 – 1770.

1930s the nave was extended westward. Two arcades located south of the main nave provide access to a narrow side nave. The interior features Baroque furnishings. Especially noteworthy is the main altar dating from the third quarter of the 18th century, with a Gothic sculpture of Pietà (ca. 1400) and an image of the Coronation of Mary (dating from the same time as the church). The village is located approx. 7 kilometres north-east of Krobia. This is a place where unique Biskupizna folk traditions are cultivated, (which can be seen particularly in the colours of women’s costumes).

front of the king, and on the balustrade of the matroneum – the Four Evangelists. The furnishings of the church constitute a kind of collage: Régence style main altar from 1730, late Baroque altar in the side chapel, a Baroque baptismal font as well as folk sculptures on the rood beam. The village is located 5 kilometres west of Miejska Górka.

sculpture of St. Anne with the Blessed Virgin Mary, dating from 1506. The town is located 12 kilometres south-east of Kościan. The church is situated along the road from Kościan to Leszno. In the vicinity of the town square we can see a Gothic, three-nave church, and at Matejki Street the former Evangelical church of St. Stanislaus Kostka.

Church of St. Clement 63-910 Zakrzewo 40 tel. 65 547 43 40

Church of St. Vitus 64-030 Śmigiel, ul. Świętego Wita tel. 65 518 00 44

Śmigiel

Rakoniewice

Church of St. Vitus was built in 1769. Its timber framed structure was infilled with bricks and stones, and plastered. It is located in a cemetery. The main altar makes a great impression with a late Gothic triptych from 1506, enclosed in an early Baroque housing. The side altar, in early Baroque style, holds Pietà and a late Gothic

The former Evangelical church (from 1763) is the seat of the Wielkopolska Museum of Firefighting. The timber framed structure of the church was infilled with clay and bricks, and plastered. It has a rectangular floor plan and a tower. On both sides of the nave there are two storey balconies. On the ground floor we can see motor and horse drawn fire engines, fire pumps... On the first floor balcony there is a display of uniforms, documents, badges, magazines, and on the second floor – posters. The village located 12 kilometres north-west of Grodzisk Wielkopolski has retained the 17th century urban layout. In the centre there is a large market square with 4 arcaded houses. In the 1600s, when Rakoniewice had municipal rights, Czech Brothers settled here. We can also see here an 18th century church and a 19th century mansion. Rakoniewice is the place where Doctor Ro�� bert �� Koch had his first practice as a physician.

Museum of Firefighting in Rakoniewice, photo: Archive of Wielkopolska Tourist Organization

Church of St. Michael the Archangel 63-804 Krobia, Domachowo 78 tel. 65 571 42 23

Church of the Holy Spirit 63-140 Dolsk, ul. Świętego Ducha tel. 61 282 55 13

Zakrzewo

Wielkopolska Museum of Firefighting 62-067 Rakoniewice, ul. Kościelna 1 tel. 61 444 11 58 www.wmp-muzeum.psp.wlkp.pl

The Church of St. Clement was erected ca. 1610. A brick chapel and sacristy were added on its northern side 50 years later. Particularly noteworthy features of its interior include the Baroque polychromes. Those on the ceiling depict scenes from the life of St. Clement, on the southern wall we can see scenes related to the Blessed Virgin Mary, on the western wall – St. Stanislaus in

Domachowo The Church of St. Michael the Archangel in Domachowo stands out among other log churches in Wielkopolska for its unusually tall roofs covered with shingles. It was built in 1568. Later, a chapel was added in 1586, and a new sacristy in 1775. In the

Ruchocice The Church of St. Ursula was built in 1730 – 1737. It represents a log-cabin type structure with planking on its outer

Church in Ruchocice, photo: Z. Schmidt

walls. Inside we can see late Baroque altars. The most noteworthy feature of the interior is the organ front dating from the second half of the 18th century. The village is located 5 kilometres north-west of Grodzisko Wielkopolskie along the road from Poznań to Zielona Góra.

Church in Grodzisk, photo: Archive of the Town Office in Grodzisk Wlkp., M. Tuliński

Church of St. Ursula 62-072 Ruchocice, ul. Dworcowa 2 tel. 61 444 34 28 Grodzisk The Church of the Holy Spirit in Grodzisk was built 1663. The log church with planking on its outer walls has a rectangular layout. Inside, on the ceiling we can see the original polychrome from the second half of the 1700s, depicting the Coronation of the Virgin Mary, and on the altar wall – a curtain constituting the background for the main altar. The latter holds a painting of St. Valentine from 1663. In the side altars there are illusionist style paintings. The pulpit and benches date from the 18th century. Grodzisk is located approx. 40 kilometres south-west of Poznań. The town retains two urban layouts: dating from the Middle Ages (surroundings of the Old Town Square) and from the 16th century - these are connected by Szeroka Street which has been transformed into a pedestrian zone. In Grodzisk we can also see the church of St.

Hedwig, in the mannerist style; the Baroque post-Bernardine church of the Most Holy Name of Jesus and Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary; and a neo-Gothic former Evangelical church of the Most Sacred Heart of Jesus. A 19th century manor house houses the Regional Museum.

Church of St. Martin 62-066 Granowo, ul. Szkolna 2 tel. 61 447 20 15

Church of the Holy Spirit ul. Rakoniewicka 1 Parish of St. Hedwig 62-065 Grodzisk, ul. Kościelna 1 tel. 61 444 54 45

The Church of St. Nicholas may be the only Catholic church in Poland in which we can encounter an image of the devil. Underneath the matroneum there are the remains of a polychrome, which depicts the devil holding a woman by her collar. It is possible she is an inn-keeper, as she has a not quite full mug of beer in her hand. Her sins are listed on ox skin: backbiting, slandering; and a justification of the verdict: “because she did not fill up (the mugs)”. The Church of St. Nicholas was built in 1695 and represents a log-cabin type structure with planking on its outer walls. This is a single-nave church with a narrower chancel enclosed within a three-fold outer wall. The whole interior is covered with polychrome, with folk-style references, which was painted during 1695 – 1701. In the chancel we can see scenes from the life of the patron saint, and on the ceiling a representation of the Holy Trinity. In the nave we can encounter images of Saints Lawrence

Granowo The Church of St. Martin was built in 1729. It represents a log-cabin type structure with planking on its outer walls. Its single nave adjoins a chancel which is enclosed within a three-fold outer wall. Inside there is a Baroque main altar from the second quarter of the 18th century. The upper part of the altar holds an image of the patron – St. Martin. The village holding commune authorities is located 11 kilometres east of Grodzisk Wielkopolski along the road from Poznań to Zielona Góra. We can also see here a 19th century mansion and next to it a historic park.

Polychrome in the church in Słopanowo, photo: Z. Schmidt

Interior of the church in Granowo, photo: Z. Schmidt

and Stephen, as well as Christ the Saviour..., and on the ceiling a representation of Mater Misericordiae. The altars represent baroque style, and the rood beam holds a late Gothic sculpture of Our Lady of Sorrows from the 16th century. The village is located in the commune of Obrzycko, 9 kilometres north-west of Szamotuły.

Curiosity Słopanowo

Church of St. Nicholas Słopanowo (keys are kept by the sacristan) Parish of Peter and Paul the Apostles 64-520 Obrzycko, ul. Kościelna 10 tel. 61 291 32 32 Land of Windmills Wielkopolska used to be called a Land of Windmills. This landscape was most beautifully described in a poem by Bolesław Leśmian: Towering over the friendly plane of fallow ground Windmill, unveiled to all sides of the world Its wooden crinoline, dancing with the creaking sound Like a devil, casts its spiky shadow to the grass...

rently gathering the collections. In the surroundings a place designed to hold recreation events is being built. Budzisław Kościelny is located on a lake in the commune of Kleczew. Dziekanowice Wielkopolska Ethnographic Park (on trail number I or II) Windmill in Osieczna, fot. Archive of Leszno-Region Tourist Organization Windmills in Śmigiel, photo: Z. Schmidt

Unfortunately, the only things reminding of windmills are memories and poems. Some of these were placed in open-air museums in Osiek nad Notecią and Dziekanowice. Some stand solitary, forgotten by God and people. Others were saved by people passionate about their native areas, for example by members of the Wielkopolska Windmills Association. Thanks to them a post mill called Joseph was preserved in Rydzyna and currently holds the Museum of Agriculture and Milling. The Association revived the glamour of the windmill in Osieczna. The lovers of Wielkopolska windmills, inspired by a German example, are planning to create a thematic trail of windmills. It is assumed that the first windmill in Wielkopolska was built in Kobylin (1303). Within the Wielkopolska landscape we can see three types of windmills. The most common are the so-called post mills. Most often they were built on hill tops. The whole construction was supported by a four armed “seat” placed in the base, and the windmill was set towards the wind with the help of a characteristic long bar and a reel. The wall holding an entrance into the windmill constituted its front and stood out for its architectural designs with decorations, galleries... The opposite wall with the propeller was called “windward”. Another type called “paltrak” was similar to post mills but appeared later, in the 19th century. It differs from post mills in that its whole construction is supported on

rollers which rotate along the round route of its movement. The third type, called “Dutch mills”, their name making reference to the fact they are similar to those in Holland. In Wielkopolska they appeared in the 1700s. Most often they had a circular or eight-lateral floor plan. The base was immovable, and the structure was tapering upwards; most often these were brick structures. They were different from post mills and paltrak mills in their operation – only their top part, the socalled “cap”, was movable, and it was turned towards the wind with the help of a special roller device. Osieczna A complex of three post mills. The oldest dates from 1761. They have the following names: Franciszek, Józef Adam and Leon. In the past they witnessed many battles. The best known, called “Battle at the windmills” took place on 11 January 1919. They are located along the road to Leszno. Rydzyna Museum of Agriculture and Milling (trail V) The post mill in Rydzyna holds the Museum of Agriculture and Milling. It is

In the small open air museum, near the ferry to Ostrów Lednicki there is the oldest windmill in Wielkopolska. This post mill was built in 1585 and was relocated here from Gryżyna (timber frame structure planked with wood boards). Three windmills located on a hill, along the northern side of the road from Poznań to Gniezno, near Moraczewo make a great impression. They date from the 19th century and were brought here

Windmills in Dziekanowice, photo: Archive of „Szlak Piastowski” Tourist Organization

open in the summer season. The post mill has been reconstructed, and for this purpose original parts of other windmills were used. Contact: Jarosław Jankowski tel. 601 56 70 32 www.wiatrakmuzeum.rydzyna.pl

Windmills in Koszuty, photo: Z. Schmidt

Śmigiel (trail V) In 1860 the town had 52 windmills. Today, there are only two, standing along the exit road towards Poznań. One (dating from 1726) was relocated to this area from Broniów, the other (built in the 18th century) from Brońsk. Koszuty (trail IV) In the vicinity of Tośtoki Inn and a manor house, there are three 18th century post mills. There were brought here from Jarosławiec, Pałczyn and Pięczkowo. Budzisław Kościelny In the summer of 2011 the post mill in Budzisław Kościelny was thoroughly restored. In its vicinity a Miller’s Cottage was also reconstructed. The windmill was built in 1858. The revived buildings are designated to hold a library and a museum of milling. The commune authorities are cur-

Windmills at the open-air museum in Osiek n. Notecią, photo: Archive of the District Office in Piła

from Swadzim (1896), Sołeczno (1844) and Sędziwojewo (1821). Within the large open air museum, close to one another there are a “paltrak” mill relocated from Kędzierzyn (1887), a post mill from Mierzewo (1801) and a “Dutch” mill from Trzuskołoń. An ethnographic area in �� Rogierówko (near Rokietnica) features a Dutch mill from 1905, built as a timber frame structure and planked with wood boards. It houses a small museum (see: open air museums)

from Chojno (1865) and a Dutch mill from Gromadno (dating from the 1890s) (see: open air museums). Where and in what way did they live The evidence for the lifestyles of simple inhabitants of Wielkopolska, when the wooden construction styles prevailed, can be found in open air museums. But before we get there, it should be mentioned that some wooden buildings once owned by aristocracy and nobility have also survived here. The Hunters’ Palace of the Radziwiłł family in Antonin is a jewel of wooden architecture – by some people it is called Chopin’s Sanctuary in Wielkopolska. Jerzy Waldorff described this charming landmark in this way: This Hunters’ Palace is the only place

Osiek nad Notecią Museum of Rural Culture This open air museum features three windmills: a paltrak from Żelice (second half of the 19th century), a post mill

which has not changed since the times of the remarkable composer. If its wooden walls could talk, they would be entitled to say this: we met him, we saw and heard him. The enchanting mansion in Koszuty looks different. Its last owners were Kazimierz Rekowski and his wife Gabriela (née Małachowska). Its current hosts – Museum of Środa Region – decided to preserve the atmosphere of a nobility house, and it seems they have been successful. The open air museums have completely different looks – they are an attempt to reconstruct rural life,;that is why the buildings are enclosed to form separate homesteads. The public buildings, such as the church, school, windmills – in a sense recreate, and give an idea of an old village in Wielkopolska. Indeed, “in real life”, in a given area very old and new buildings can stand side by side. This organic process of the growth of history can be seen in an open air museum. Sometimes, you can get the feeling that you could bring farm animals into the byres, hay and wheat into the granaries, and families into the houses – and it is possible to live here. You cannot relocate some things into open air museums, in fact there is no need. In the surroundings of Nowy Tomyśl, Öland-style buildings have been preserved. And although it is not a tradition originating from Wielkopolska, still people from Öland inhabited this area for a few centuries. The homesteads which they left behind are still used as dwellings or they hold farm buildings. In some of those their owners have established agri-tourist facilities.

and the ceiling supported on a thick column. Three side wings hold guest rooms, and the fourth contains the staircase. On the first floor there is a room devoted to the remarkable Polish composer who used to visit the place. At present the palace houses a hotel and Home of Creative Work. On the ground floor we can visit an elegant restaurant. Each year in autumn the place holds the festival called “Chopin in the colours of Autumn”. Hunters’ Palace of the Radziwiłł family Antonin 63-421 Przygodzice, ul. Pałacowa 1 tel. 62 73 48 300, 62 73 48 169 www.chopin-antonin.pl www.ckis.kalisz.pl Koszuty Half-timbered manor house (trail IV) In the Koszuty manor house time stopped in the late 19th/early 20th century. One gets an impression that its residents Palace in Antonin, photo: K. Piechocki

Antonin Hunters’ Palace of the Radziwiłł family (trail IV) The Hunters’ Palace of the Radziwiłł family in Antonin was built in 1822 – 1824 to the design of Karl Friedrich Schinkel, an architect from Berlin. The building has the layout of the Greek Cross, it features a three-storey hall with galleries,

Inside the manor house in Koszuty, photo: Z. Schmidt

Manor house in Koszuty, photo: Z. Schmidt

have just left. It features rooms typical for this kind of house: hallway, dining room, guest room, rooms belonging to the Master and Lady of the house, and children’s room... All of those are furnished in the style of the period. The half-timbered building was erected on the foundations of a former, wooden mansion, presumably in 1760, and was altered in the following century. From 1966 iit has housed the Museum of Środa Region. Its attic holds an exhibition depicting the history, and renowned persons connected with Środa region: Jan Henryk Dąbrowski, Amilkar Kosiński, Edward Raczyński, Ryszard Berwiński, Father Augustyn Szamarzewski. The manor house is surrounded with a landscaped park. In the vicinity there is the wooden church of St. Bartholomew. It was built in 1720 and represents a log-cabin type construction with planking on its outer walls. The main altar holds a painting of Our Lady of Rokitno, from 1737. The side altar features Pietà from the late 1500s. On the chancel wall we can see a Gothic sculpture of St. Margaret from ca. 1480. In the vicinity of the manor house there are three windmills.

Museum of Środa Region 63-300 Środa Wielkopolska, Koszuty 27 tel. 61 28 51 023 www.koszuty.pl Wooden town hall in Sulmierzyce, photo: Z. Schmidt

Manor house in Russów, photo: Archive of the District Museum of Kalisz Region

Inside the manor house in Koszuty, photo: Z. Schmidt

Sulmierzyce (trail IV)

tel. 62 722 34 80, 62 722 32 18 www.muzeumsulmierzyce.pl

The town square in Sulmierzyce holds a wooden town hall. This is the only building of this type in Poland. The first records related to a town hall date from 1647. The current structure was erected in 1743. In 1879 its tower was lowered, the clock and arcaded galleries were removed. The log building has two floors and a rectangular layout. It is topped with a hip roof covered with shingles. On three sides it forms arcades supported on wooden posts. In the middle of the ridge there is a quadrilateral tower topped with a metal cupola. The walls of the building were plastered. The interior retains the arrangement of rooms, with the mayor’s office and the Council Hall on the first floor. Today, the building houses the Regional Museum of Sulmierzyce Area. In the town we can also see a post mill called Jakub from the second half of the 19th century - in order to visit it inside you must contact the Museum.

Open air museums Russów Exposition of wooden rural architecture of Kalisz Region (trail III) Maria Dąbrowska was born and brought up in Russów near Kalisz. The renowned writer did not live to see the reconstruction of her family mansion, and in 1971 a museum named after her was opened here. This is one of the branch locations of the Museum of Kalisz Region. In the vicinity of the writer’s mansion is an exposition of wooden rural architecture of the Kalisz Region where we can admire landmarks of rural architecture dating from the 19th and 20th century. Maria Dąbrowska Mansion in Russów Exposition of wooden rural architecture of Kalisz Region 62-817 Żelazków, Russów 49 tel. 62 769 12 65, www.muzeum.kalisz.pl

Sebastian Fabian Klonowicz Regional Museum of Sulmierzyce Area 63-750 Sulmierzyce, Rynek 1

Museum of Rural Culture (branch of Regional Museum in Piła), 89-333 Osiek nad Notecią, ul. Dworcowa 10 tel. 67 286 60 90 Access: by train – railway line from Piła to Bydgoszcz, by car: 5 km from the road from Bydgoszcz to Piła www.muzeum.plia.pl

they also settled in Boruja Stara, Przyłęk, Jastrzębsko Stare, Grubasko, Nowa Róża… The Hauländer homesteads typically are isolated and scattered over a large area. The crofts usually comprised a narrow cottage, pigpen, and barn. Sometimes a separate woodshed and tool shed were built. In the central area of the yard there was a shadoof well, and in the proximity of the house there were large trees. In this area typical cottages had a wide front, and a rectangular floor plan. Although the style and the buildings in Hauländer crofts have survived intact, the cottages have been significantly transformed. All buildings were made of wood (oak, pine, larch). They represent log-cabin, post and beam, as well as vertical-post log constructions - just like the wooden churches. At present many of these crofts have been transformed by their owners into agri-cultural farms. Detailed information can be found at: www.olederskieosadnictwo.nowytomysl.pl

Rakoniewice (trail V) The town located along the national road No. 32 (Poznań – Zielona Góra) retains a typical small town arrangement of buildings. Particularly impressive are the wooden and half-timbered houses from the 18th and 19th century, including those at Grodziska, Kościelna, Krystyny, Pocztowa and Wolsztyńska Streets. Other noteworthy landmarks here include the half-timbered building of the former Evangelical church, which currently holds the Museum of Firefighting (see: wooden churches).

Hauländer homesteads in Jastrzębsko Stare, photo: Archive of the Town Office in Nowy Tomyśl

Dziekanowice

must get off in Lednogóra), by bus (PKS service) – the bus line from Poznań to Gniezno (via Pobiedziska). The distance from the bus stop in Dziekanowice to the gate is 300 metres.

Wielkopolska Ethnographic Park (on trail I or II) Wielkopolska Ethnographic Park in Dziekanowice is a branch location of the Museum of Early Piast Dynasty in Lednica. It spreads along Lake Lednica. In the park we can see 53 buildings from the whole area of Wielkopolska. For instance we can compare a cottage from 1602 with a cottage built in 1936 – both representing vertical-post log construction: an interesting diversity of cultures. In this open air museum we can feel as if we were in an old village, because next to the homesteads from various periods and areas of Wielkopolska we can see windmills, a church, a granary, a smithy, a school... The buildings are furnished in a way which gives you the feeling that in fact someone lives here and has just gone out to work in the field. They are surrounded by house gardens. Access by car – along the national road No. 5 from Poznań (35 km), by train – the railway from Poznań to Gniezno (you

Museum of Early Piast Dynasty in Lednica 62-261 Lednogóra, Dziekanowice 32 tel. 61 427 50 23, www.lednicamuzeum.pl Osiek nad Notecią Museum of Rural Culture This museum consists of two sections: archeological and ethnographic. The first one presents exhibits obtained in the course of archeological research conducted in this area. In the vicinity a traditional style village of “oval” shape was reconstructed. In addition to huts and cottages as well as farm buildings we can see here windmills, a fire station, a smithy and a sawmill. The buildings come from the central catchment area of the Noteć river, i.e. Notecka Forest, Pałuki and Krajna.

Pyzdry

Hauländer homesteads in Borua Nowa, photo:. Archive of the Town Office in Nowy Tomyśl

This unique town retains the original “truss-shaped” urban layout. In the Town Square, we can see a wooden house No. 17 from 1768, representing a vertical-post log construction, with an arcade, supported on four posts, as well as the house No. 19 – a half-timbered structure from the first half of the 19th century (both are private property). Other noteworthy landmarks in Pyzdry include the 19th century houses along Kaliska, Farna, Daszyńskiego and Kilńskiego Streets, as well as a windmill from 1903 at Wrocławska Street. Settlements of Hauländer people in the surroundings of Nowy Tomyśl Settlements of Hauländer people have become a permanent feature of the Wielkopolska landscape. Hauländers started settling in the area of Nowy Tomyśl in the 18th century. First they took residence in Sękowo, then in Glinno and Paproć. Later

Accommodation

Hotel Rzymski *** Al. Marcinkowskiego 22, 61-827 Poznań tel.61 852 81 21, fax 61 852 89 83 www.rzymskihotel.com.pl Hotel Meridian ul. Litewska 22, 60-605 Poznań tel. 61 656 53 53, 61 841 12 01 fax. 61 656 55 26 www.hotelmeridian.com.pl Pensjonat Nasz Klub – Guest House ul. Woźna 10, 61-777 Poznań tel. 61 851 76 30, fax 61 851 66 81 www.naszklub.pl Fusion Hostel ul. Św. Marcin 66/72, 61-808 Poznań tel. 61 852 12 30, fax 61 853 46 0 www.fusionhostel.pl Guest rooms of the Polish Academy of Sciences ul. Wieniawskiego 17/19, 60-713 Poznań tel. 61 851 68 41 www. ibch.poznan.pl TPD Youth Hostel ul. Drzymały 3, 60-613 Poznań tel. 61 848 58 36, fax 61 849 09 82 www.schroniskotpd.d83.pl Hanka School Youth Hostel ul. Biskupińska 27, 60-463 Poznań Strzeszyn tel. 61 822 10 63, fax 61 840 71 28 www.schroniskahanka.com School Youth Hostel ul. Berwińskiego 2/3, 60-765 Poznań tel. 61 866 4040

Poznań Hotel Sheraton ***** ul. Bukowska 3/9, 60-809 Poznań tel. 61 655 20 00, fax 61 655 20 01 www.sheraton.pl Hotel Safir ul. Żmigrodzka 41/49, 60-171 Poznań tel. 61 867 37 11, fax 61 867 83 36 www.hotelsafir.pl Hotel Poznański ul. Krańcowa 4, 62-030 Luboń tel. 61 649 99 88, fax 61 649 99 89 www.hotelpoznanski.pl Hotel Mercure **** (Accor Hotels) ul. Roosevelta 20, 60-829 Poznań tel. 61 855 80 00, fax 61 855 89 55 www.accorhotels.com Hotel HP Park *** ul. Abpa Antoniego Baraniaka 77 61-131 Poznań tel. 61 874 11 00, fax 61 874 12 00 www.hotelepark.pl Hotel Ibis Poznań Centrum ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 23, 61-863 Poznań tel. 61 858 44 00 , fax 61 858 44 44 www.ibishotel.com Polychrome in the church in Słopanowo, photo: Z. Schmidt

Gniezno and local area Awo ul. Warszawska 32, 62-200 Gniezno tel./fax 61 426 11 97, www.hotel-awo.pl City ul. Rynek 15, 62-200 Gniezno tel. 061/ 425-35-35, fax 61 425 37 37 Gewert ul. Paczkowskiego 2, 62-200 Gniezno tel. 61 428 23 75, fax 61 425 33 43 www.gewert.gniezno.pl Lech ul. Bł. Jolenty 5, 62-200 Gniezno tel. 61 426 23 85, fax 61 424 57 33 www.hotel-lech.pl Mieszko ul. Strumykowa 2, 62-200 Gniezno tel. 61 426 46 25 www.hotelmieszko.gniezno.pl Victoria Łubowo 13, 62-260 Łubowo tel. 61 427 54 54, fax 61 427 51 36 www.hotel-victoria.pl

Lido Sport and Leisure Centre in Antonin ul. Wrocławska 6, 63-421 Przygodzice tel./fax 62 73 48 127, 609 198 426 www.antonindomki.pl Konin and local area Pałacyk **** ul. 1 Maja 15a, 62-510 Konin tel. 63 245 77 77, fax 63 246 60 10 www.palacyk-konin.pl Konin** ul. 1 Maja 13, 62-510 Konin tel. 63 243 76 00, fax 63 243 76 07 www.hotelkonin.pl School Youth Hostel ul. Staffa 5, 62-505 Konin – Gosławice tel. / fax 63 242 72 35 www.schronisko-goslawice.pl Guest House – owned by Ewa and Jan Goździkowiec ul. Jaśminowa 4, 62-500 Konin - Wilków” tel. 63 241 45 08 Arka Pilgrims’ Home Reception ul. Klasztorna 4, 62-563 Lichen Stary tel. 63 270 81 62, fax 63 270 83 20 arka@lichen.pl

Interior of the church ib Gułtowy, photo: Z. Schmidt

Hostels School Youth Hostel ul. Pocztowa 11, 62-200 Gniezno tel./fax 61 426 27 80

Altar in the church in Kicin, photo: Z. Schmidt

Kalisz and local area Europa Al. Wolności 5, 62-800 Kalisz tel. 62 767 20 31/33, www.hotel-europa.pl Flora ul.Wiatraki 3, 62-800 Kalisz tel. 62 757 46 50, www.hotel-flora.pl Calisia ul. Nowy Świat 1-3, 62-800 Kalisz tel. 62 767 91 00, fax 62 767 91 14 www.hotel-calisia.pl Seven ul. Częstochowska 77, 62-800 Kalisz tel. 62 764 43 43, www.hotelseven.pl School Youth Hostel ul. Handlowa 30, 62-800 Kalisz tel. 692 066 942 Granada ul. Wrocławska 93 63-400 Ostrów Wielkopolski tel. 62 738 73 10, fax 62 738 73 05 www.hotelgranada.pl Dworek ul. Kaliska 7/9, 63-500 Ostrzeszów tel. 62 730 95 50, fax 62 730 95 52 www.dworek.net.pl

Magda ul. Toruńska 27, 62-563 Licheń Stary tel. 63 270 87 00 www.hotelmagda.com.pl In Licheń it is possible to get rooms in the following private accommodation facilities: „Aga”, „Agro”, „Eugenia”, „Abba”, „Tomasz Kuznowicz”… Details at: www.lichen.biz/noclegi.php Sara ul. Zielona 5, 62-600 Koło tel. 63 26 24 880, fax 63 26 24 840 Catering establishments

U Przyjaciół ul. Mielżyńskiego 27/29, 61-729 Poznań tel. 61 851 67 95, 609 838 803 Gniezno Amanda ul. Chrobrego 1, 61-200 Gniezno tel. 61 428 28 31, fax 61 428 28 30 Ratuszowa ul. Chrobrego 40/41, 62-200 Gniezno tel./fax 61 424 32 23 Europejska ul. Dąbrówki 19, 62-200 Gniezno tel. 61 426 30 41, 61 426 30 35 Gwarna ul. Mieszka I 16, 62-200 Gniezno tel./fax 61 426 16 16 In Centro Restaurant & Pizza Bar ul. Rynek 10, 62-200 Gniezno tel. 61 428 26 14 Polska ul. Tumska 5, 62-200 Gniezno tel. 61 426 18 00

Poznań Restauracja Przy Bamberce Stary Rynek 2, 61-772 Poznań tel. 61 852 99 17 www.bamberka.com.pl Brovaria Stary Rynek 73, 61-772 Poznań tel. 61 858 68 68/78, fax 61 858 68 69 www.brovaria.pl Green Way- Vegetarian food outlet ul. 23 Lutego 11 (as well as ul. Taczaka 2 and Zeylanda 3), 61-741 Poznań tel. 61 582 52 41 www.greenway.webpark.pl Gospoda Pod Koziołkami Stary Rynek 95, 61-773 Poznań tel. 61 851 78 68, fax 61 851 78 69 www.podkoziolkami.pl Pieprz i wanilia ul. Murna 3a (róg ul. Koziej), 61-771 Poznań tel. 61 851 86 64, fax 61 855 35 40 www.pieprzwanilia.pl Restauracja Estella ul. Garbary 41, 61-869 Poznań tel. 61 851 71 22, fax: 61 855 16 68 www.estella.pl Sphinx ul. Św. Marcin 66/72, 60-807 Poznań tel. 61 852 53 62 www.sphinx.poznan.pl Cocorico Cafe ul. Świętosławska 9, 61-840 Poznań tel. 61 852 95 29 www.cocorico.pl Weranda Caffe ul. Świętosławska 10, 61-840 Poznań tel. 61 853 25- 87 Zielona Weranda Cafe ul. Paderewskiego 7, tel. 61 851 32 90 www.zielonaweranda.pl Czekolada ul. Żydowska 29, 61-761 Poznań tel. 61 851 92 91

Church in Gułtowy, photo: Z. Schmidt

Ristorante Italiano ul. Tumska 12, 62-200 Gniezno tel. 61 426 14 97 Sphinx ul. Chrobrego 4, 62-200 Gniezno tel. 61 426 13 73

Church in Śmigiel, photo: Z. Schmidt

Kalisz and its area Karafka ul. Górnośląska 10, 62-800 Kalisz tel. 62 767 86 60, www.cafekarafka.pl Piwnica Ratuszowa Główny Rynek 20, 62-800 Kalisz tel. 62 757 05 03 Pięterko Staropolska ul. Zamkowa 12, 62-800 Kalisz tel. 62 757 53 02 www.centrum.pl/restauracje Restauracja KTW Park Miejski 2, 62-800 Kalisz tel. 62 764 29 46, fax 62 757 46 69 www.restauracja-ktw.pl Pod Karocą ul. Wrocławska 247, 62-800 Kalisz tel. 62 768 74 47, www.podkaroca.pl Bambus ul. Śródmiejska 31, 62-800 Kalisz tel. 62 764 29 85 Eldorado ul. Kościuszki 20, 63-500 Ostrzeszów tel. 62 730 37 87 Konin Restauracja Italia ul. Chopina 16, 62 -510 Konin tel. 63 242 13 25, www.resitalia.konin.pl Gospoda Piwniczna plac Wolności 11, 62-500 Konin tel. 63 244 11 98, www.gospodapiwniczna.pl Sphinx ul. Chopina 18, 62-510 Konin tel. 63 246 97 03, www.sphinx.pl Rady’s Restauracja Grecka ul. Paderewskiego 8, 62 – 510 Konin tel. 63 246 92 53 Living Room ul. Pałacowa 1, 62-510 Konin tel. 63 211 33 80 Grodzka Pl. Wolności 7, 62-510 Konin tel. 63 244 12 33, www.grodzka.konin.pl Kresowianka ul. Kolska 55a, 62-510 Konin tel. 63 244 52 45 Pałacyk ul. 1 Maja 15a, 62-510 Konin tel. 63 245 77 77

Church in Zakrzewo, photo: Z. Schmidt

Tourist Information Poznań 61-772 Poznań, Stary Rynek 59/60 tel. 61 852 61 56, 61 855 33 79 it@cim.poznan.pl

Leszno 64-100 Leszno, ul. Słowiańska 24 tel. 65 529 81 91, 65 529 81 92 infotur@leszno.pl

Entrance, ul.27 Grudnia 61-816 Poznań, ul. Ratajczaka 44 tel. 61 851 96 45, 61 856 04 54 centrum@cim.poznan.pl

Nowy Tomyśl 64-300 Nowy Tomyśl pl. Niepodległości 10 tel. 61 442 38 06 r.ratajczak@nowytomysl.pl

Poznań International Fair 60-734 Poznań, ul. Głogowska 14 tel. 61 869 20 84 centrum@cim.poznan.pl Airport Poznań-Ławica 60-189 Poznań, ul. Bukowska 285 tel. 61 849 21 40 lawica@cim.poznan.pl Poznań Railway Station 60-801 Poznań, ul. Dworcowa 1 tel. 61 866 06 67 info@globtourfb.poznan.pl Gniezno 62-200 Gniezno, ul. Rynek 14 tel. 61 428 41 00 info@szlakpiastowski.com.pl Kalisz 62-800 Kalisz, ul. Zamkowa tel. 62 598 27 31 it@um.kalisz.pl Konin 62-510 Konin, ul. Dworcowa 2 tel. 63 246 32 48 biuro@lotmarina.pl

Piła 64-920 Piła, al. Niepodległości 33/35 tel. 67 210 94 80 pit@powiat.pila.pl Puszczykowo 62-040 Puszczykowo, ul. Poznańska 1 tel. 61 633 62 83, 61 898 37 11 promocja@puszczykowo.pl Śrem 63-100 Śrem, ul. Okulickiego 3 tel. 61 283 27 04 unia@srem.com.pl Wolsztyn 64-200 Wolsztyn ul. Roberta Kocha 12a tel. 68 347 31 04 gci@wolsztyn.pl

Publisher: Wielkopolska Tourist Organization ul. 27 Grudnia 17/19, 61-737 Poznań Text: Anna Plenzler Translation: Timothy Downey Graphic design: Agencja Fotograficzna Studio-F, www.olszewskiphoto.pl Cover photos: K. Piechocki, Archive of „Szlak Piastowski” Tourist Organization, Z. Schmidt ISBN: 978-83-61454-55-7 Poznań 2012

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