Wielkopolska of the Piast Dynasty - the Piast Route
WARSZAWA
Reliquary of St. Adalbert in Gniezno, photo: Z. Schmidt
Wielkopolska of the Piast Dynasty – the Piast Route
www.wielkopolska.travel www.turystyka-kulturowa-wlkp.pl
A journey along the Piast Route follows the traces of the first monarchs of the Piast dynasty. It takes you back into the distant past, when Poland was emerging. Remnants of those times, which can be encountered in Wielkopolska, include buildings, works of art and relics excavated and unearthed from the ground and then like puzzles used by archeologists to recreate the world as it used to be one thousand years ago. Wielkopolska, with its many Piastrelated landmarks, has a lot on offer for tourists. To what extent they will take advantage
of these options is up to them and depends on their interests and how much time they can afford. Following the initiative of the Marshal of the Wielkopolskie Voivodeship in 2011 the Program and Research Committee for the Piast Route was established by the marshals of Wielkopolskie and the adjacent Kujawsko-Pomorskie Voivodeship. It elaborated a new broad concept for the route consisting of two trails which cross in Gniezno. They make it possible for visitors to become fully acquainted with the Piast heritage in Wielkopolska and Kujawy.
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(d.1490) as well as a Gothic epitaph plaque devoted to Władysław Laskonogi (d.1231), who was presumably buried in Lubiń. Benedictine monks were brought to Lubiń around year 1075 by Bolesław Śmiały, from the abbey of St. James in Leodium (today Liège in Belgium). Grand scale construction works of a monastery were initiated at the time yet, for unknown reasons they were stopped. Again in the first half of the 12th century Benedictine monks were located in Lubiń by Bolesław Krzywousty. The first church, surrounded by a high stone wall with towers and a deep moat, was completed ca. 1145. At the same time the construction of a monastery was initiated. During the 15th and 16th century the church and monastery gradually changed their appearance. A Gothic church with a tall tower, which today can be seen from afar, replaced the older Romanesque structure. Subsequent centuries brought other changes. The present-day Baroque church, dating from the first half of the 18th century, is a large structure making a great impression from a distance. The highlights of the place include the chancel with oak choir stalls and the main altar holding an image of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary, as well as transept chapels (of Our Lady of the Rosary and of St. Benedict) and polychromes ornamenting the central dome, main nave, chancel and chapels. The Benedictine Abbey, initially very closely connected with the Piasts, throughout the following centuries functioned as a very important centre of religious as well as cultural life. Lubiń was home to one of the largest monastic libraries in Wielkopolska which was accompanied by a scriptorium. In 1834 Prussian authorities closed the monastery and the large library collection was carried away to Berlin. Presently a significant part of the monastery building was dismantled. Benedictine monks returned to Lubiń only in 1923. On top of a nearby hill in the village there is the 13th century church of St. Leonard, also owned by Benedictine monks. Although it was later subject to alterations it
Church in Lubiń, photo: Z. Schmidt
Trail 1: Lubiń – Poznań – Pobiedziska – Ostrów Lednicki – Gniezno – Żnin – Biskupin – Trzemeszno – Mogilno – Strzelno – Inowrocław – Kruszwica – Płowce – Brześć Kujawski – Włocławek LUBIŃ When looking at the Baroque church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Lubiń it is hard to envisage that it occupies a location once holding a church and monastery which, according to archaeologists, in the first half of the 1100s were among the first brick buildings in the Polish lands; it used to have a regular quadrilateral layout and corner towers. Today we can still see fragments of the Romanesque stone walls of the church and elements of its medieval features such as Romanesque and Gothic portals, metal doors embellished with forged ornaments, a stone font, the granite tombstone of Abbot Awdaniec
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has retained its interesting structure which allows for tracing features of Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance styles. Its original stone structure is one of the most valuable relics of Romanesque construction in Wielkopolska. In 2009 the complex of the Benedictine abbey was entered into the Inventory of Historical Monuments.
in the process of the post-war reconstruction of the cathedral pre-Romanesque and Romanesque relics of the oldest churches were unearthed in its underground. Yet it was the 1999 discovery of the remnants of a palatium from the times of Duke Mieszko I that opened a new chapter in unravelling the oldest history of Poznań. Thanks to the research, today we know that the gord (fortified settlement) was established on the location of an earlier settlement from the late 9th-early 10th century. The small gord, which was erected in the mid-10th century, had a diameter of approx. 40 metres and occupied the area today extending from the street at the cathedral square to the Psałteria building and from the garden of the house at No. 10, Ostrów Tumski to Ostrów Tumski Street. In the 970s the gord was significantly expanded and surrounded with massive walls, 20 metres wide and 10 metres tall. It was then that the pala-
POZNAŃ The significance of Poznań in the early formation of the Polish state is clearly reflected by the findings of the latest archaeological research conducted in the area of Ostrów Tumski (literally: Cathedral Island) in Poznań by a team led by Professor Hanna Kóčka-Krenz from the Institute of PreHistory of Adam Mickiewicz University. In fact even before World War II fragments of settlement walls were discovered, and then Cathedral and Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Poznań, photo: D. Krakowiak
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Golden Chapel in the Poznań Cathedral, photo: Z. Schmidt
tium with a chapel was built in an area designated for the duke. It is assumed that the remaining buildings in this area were built of wood and provided lodgings for those closest to the duke. For those times the palatium was an imposing, two-storey structure, 12 metres wide and 27 metres long; it extended along the north-south axis. At each level the floor area was 190 square metres. On the ground floor there were four rooms – the first one was a kind of entryway leading to a stately room of 102 square metres. From there passages led to the two remaining rooms: a small one which may have been the duke’s treasury and a larger hall – perhaps an office. Artefacts unearthed in the latter room include a bulla of Duke Bolesław Krzywousty; this rare findi has changed our understanding of the Middle Ages. In the areas traditionally linked with Latin culture bullas were reserved for the pope, German emperors, kings and bishops. Yet, it turns out that the Polish duke also used a seal of
this type which is evidence of his important position. The palatium walls, built of stone cut into tiles, were plastered. Similarly the interior of the building was plastered and in fact decorated with paints of various colours, including lime white, iron oxide red, and even ultramarine obtained from Lapis lazuli, a very expensive dye whose price was comparable to that of gold. Next to the residence there was a small chapel – its relics were uncovered by archaeologists in the summer of 2009. The sensational finds include over 220 mosaic tiles most probably originating from the chapel walls – this is the only discovery of this type made in Poland so far. Similarly unique is the goldsmith workshop which was uncovered here – it may have been the only workshop actually working with gold in those times in the Polish territories. Mieszko’s flourishing gord in the late 10th century was expanded to include another segment. It was enclosed within
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massive earth embankments reinforced with wood and stone - their course today is delineated by ks. Ignacego Posadzego Street. This was also a truly sensational discovery. After examination the walls were again covered with earth. Only some fragments as well as parts of walls built around Ostrów Tumski in the 16th century by Bishop Jan Lubrański can be seen in an archaeological reserve at ks. Ignacego Posadzego Street (to open in mid 2012). On the other bank of the Cybina river, opposite the cathedral, the Interactive Centre of Ostrów Tumski History is being built and should be completed in 2012. Ostrów Tumski, the oldest part of Poznań, is also the cradle of the Polish state and the Polish Church. As early as 968 Poznań became the first seat of bishop’s authority in Poland, with Jordan being the first bishop. In the late 12th and early 13th century Poznań started transforming from the fortified castle into a town similar to those existing in Western Europe. In 1253, Duke Przemysł I and his brother Bolesław Pobożny established the Poznań municipality in accordance with the Magdeburg Law on the left bank of the Warta river. The town was enclosed within walls and its fortifications included a castle located in the western part of the town. In Poznań there are few material artefacts dating from the times of the Piast dynasty. Hopefully some, for instance the still undiscovered remnants of buildings from the settlement of Mieszko I and Bolesław Chrobry, are still waiting for archaeologists. Other places have completely changed their appearance as a result of alterations introduced in the course of the following centuries. One of these is the Cathedral of Saint Apostles Peter and Paul holding the burial grounds of the House of Piast: Mieszko I, Bolesław Chrobry, Mieszko II, Kazimierz Odnowiciel, Władysław Odonic, Przemysł I, Bolesław Pobożny and Przemysł II. Even though in its vaults we can admire relics of the pre-Romanesque and Romanesque cathedral, today the church has the form of a 15th century basilica with three naves, an
ambulatory surrounding the chancel and a sequence of chapels. In this form the church was rebuilt after the destruction of 1945. The 18th century layout, which had existed until WWII, was not restored – the building regained its Gothic features instead. Because of the damage caused by the war, particularly in the area of the main nave, the cathedral was partly appointed with furnishings brought from Silesia. In 1990 the famous 15th century tombstones made in the Vischer family workshop in Nuremberg came back to the cathedral; pillaged by the Nazis, after a long search they were finally found in the Hermitage collection in Saint Petersburg. The least damage was incurred during the war by the side chapels, where today we can still admire true masterpieces of sculpture from previous centuries, including the tombstone of Bishop Benedykt Izdbieński, crafted by Jan Michałowicz from Urzędowo, the most outstanding sculptor of the Polish Renaissance; as well as the Renaissance tomb of the Górka family, a work of Hieronim Canavesi. Yet most renowned within Poznań Cathedral is the chapel, which in the 1800s replaced the older shrine devoted to Holy Mary – the Chapel of Polish Kings, also known as the Golden Chapel. It was founded by public contributions from the three parts of Poland under the authority of partitioning powers as well as by donations made by the Tsar of Russia and the Crown Prince of Prussia. The chapel, whose rich ornamentation makes a reference to early Christian motifs, holds a neo-Gothic sarcophagus of the first two Polish monarchs, Mieszko I and Bolesław Chrobry (containing elements of the Gothic tomb founded by King Kazimierz Wielki for the latter monarch); we can also see here statues of both rulers funded by Edward Raczyński and sculpted by Christian Rauch. While taking a walk around Ostrów Tumski one cannot omit the Gothic church of the Blessed Virgin Mary which was built in the first half of the 1300s, partly incorporating relics of Mieszko I’s palatium.
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Exhibits in Skarbczyk at Ostrów Lednicki, photo: Z. Schmidt
Ostrów Lednicki – entrance gate, photo: Archive of the District Office in Gniezno, J. Andrzejewski
Due to its poor condition the church cannot be visited inside. In its vicinity there is a 16th century building called Psałteria, once home to priests who were psalm singers in the cathedral. Both this building and the edifice of Lubrański Academy, which can still be seen there, were commissioned by one of the most outstanding clergymen of Poznań, Bishop Jan Lubrański. Named after him, the street departing from the square in front of the cathedral will lead us to the former Academy which today holds the Archdiocese Museum. Witnesses to the times of the Piasts include the church of St. John of Jerusalem, Beyond the Walls at Komandoria built in the late 12th and early 13th century in an area awarded to friars of the Order of Malta by Duke Mieszko III Stary. This Romanesque church, later altered a number of times, is the oldest brick building in Wielkopolska and one of the first structures of this type in Poland. From Komandoria and Ostrów Tumski we can walk to Stary Rynek (Old Town Square); in its vicinity on Góra Przemysła (Mount of Przemysł) there is the oldest royal residence in Poland, whose construction was initiated by Przemysł I in the second half of the 13th century. The castle was then expanded by his son Przemysł II who was crowned in Gniezno in 1295 and became the first crowned monarch of Po-
land after a break of 200 years. The following year he was assassinated as a result of a plot organized by the Brandenburg rulers and was laid to rest in Poznań cathedral. The castle was finally completed by Kazimierz Wielki. From the 16th century the edifice was in a state of disrepair. Its northern part was rebuilt only in 1783, following orders of Kazimierz Raczyński, the general Starost of Wielkopolska and designated to hold document archives. In this form its fragment was restored from ruin after 1945. Today the only remains of the original structure are the Gothic cellars. Following years of efforts initiated by the Public Committee for the Reconstruction of the Royal Castle in Poznań, in 2011 the reconstruction works were started, or according to some it is in fact construction works. The idea was met with opposition from numerous historians of art and architects who claim that the design does not have anything in common with the original residence built by Przemysł, because in fact we do not know what it looked like. POBIEDZISKA The Open-air Museum of Miniatures is an attraction designed not only for children. In one place visitors can see well-
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lished, as a result of works unskillfully conducted by a district construction inspector. Rather than unravel the mysteries of the site the works caused its significant damage. Archeological research in the area of Lake Lednica started in 1856, when the island was bought by Albin Węsierski, owner of the nearby Zakrzewo. This is when Ostrów Lednicki attracted a lot of attention. Unfortunately after Węsierski died in 1875, the works stopped. They were resumed only in the 1930s, yet archeologists were mainly interested in modern era burial grounds located within the site of the old Lednica gord. It was not until after WWII that researchers started focusing on the Lednica buildings. Groundbreaking discoveries resulted from interdisciplinary research initiated in 1981 and still continued today. Now we know for sure that the stone buildings at Ostrów Lednicki, i.e. palatium, baptistery chapel, church and defensive structures were built in the 960s and were connected with Duke Mieszko I. The island used to be connected with the land via two bridges, one leading westward – the so-called “Poznań bridge” 440 metres long, and the eastward, or Gniezno bridge - 174 m. Today the bridges are no longer there - a ferry takes visitors to the island. The greatest archaeological sensation came in 1988 and 1989 when researchers unearthed two immersion fonts with a cross-shaped layout – this discovery resulted in speculation that Mieszko I may have been baptized here. This is only a hypothesis because we do not know where the actual event which traditionally is recognized as the “baptism of Poland” was held. The artefacts which archaeologists recovered from the ground and from water can be seen at the permanent exposition within the former farming estate in Dziekanowice as well as at the so-called Skarb������ czyk (a building which is a smaller version of the Poznań church of St. John of Jerusalem). These exhibitions are worth visiting also because of the amazing collection of military artefacts dating from the times of Mieszko I and Bolesław Chrobry. A majority of these
Wooden figures of warriors along the Piast Route, photo: Archive of the District Office in Gniezno
known landmarks of Wielkopolska, mainly from the Piast Route. The most famous buildings are presented here in the form of their scale models. Yet, the imposing dimensions of the Gothic cathedrals of Poznań and Gniezno are still clearly visible in the miniatures. Even though they are twenty times smaller than the original, their towers are much taller than visitors – they are nearly 4 metres high. The construction of the first miniatures was initiated in 1994. The open-air museum opened in 1998, during events celebrating the 950th anniversary of Pobiedziska. Since then 35 scale models of churches, palaces, mansions and tenement houses from throughout Wielkopolska have been set up here. A construction of each miniature was preceded with measurement of the original buildings, as well as photographs and drawings of details which allowed for creating accurate replicas of ornamentation. OSTRÓW LEDNICKI A drawing in “The Memories of Wielkopolska” (Wspomnienia Wielkopolski) by Edward Raczyński published in 1843 depicts an impressive stone arcade amidst the ruins on the island called Ostrów Lednicki. Unfortunately, the structure may have collapsed shortly after the drawing was pub-
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were recovered from the lake, at the bridge abutments, and along the island shores. They date mainly from 1038 - the time of invasion of Bretislaus and Polish-Czech warfare which occurred in this area. The holdings of the Museum of Early Piast Dynasty at Lednica include approximately 150 axes and hatchets, some of these related to the Vikings. Obviously in addition to these there are also swords, spearheads, as well as a helmet with nose guard, and a 10-kilogram chainmail. Within the Small Open-Air Museum we can also see the oldest windmill in Poland dating from 1585; it was relocated here from Gryżyna. Additionally, we can participate in educational workshops which are held in an 18th century granary. Ostrów Lednicki is registered in the Inventory of Historical Monuments.
important fortified settlements in the times when the Polish state was emerging. In its heyday (first quarter of the 11th century) the gord comprised an area of 6 hectares and was protected by massive 10-12 metre tall earth embankments reinforced with wood. In the second half of the 10 century a church was built on Wzgórze Lecha; in the year 1000 it received the status of a cathedral. Today the Gothic Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary also holding the sanctuary of St. Adalbert is the most magnificent witness of the over one thousand year long history of Gniezno. The cathedral in Gniezno hosted the coronation of the Polish kings from the Piast dynasty: Bolesław Chrobry (1025), Mieszko II (1025), Bolesław Śmiały (1076), Przemysł II (1295), Wacław II (1300). Visitors are reminded of its royal past by the statue of Bolesław Chrobry standing in front of the church. The monument which we can see here today is a work of Jerzy Sobociński who replicated an earlier statue sculpted by Marcin Rożek; the original monument which was placed in front of the cathedral in 1925 to commemorate the 900th anniversary of the coronation, was destroyed during the Nazi occupation. The origins of the church go back to the 10th century. The Gothic cathedral, which can still be seen there now, was commissioned in the 1440s by Archbishop Jarosław Bogoria Skotnicki. As a result of later alterations, today the cathedral, which is registered in the Inventory of Historical Monuments, is a three-nave basilica with an ambulatory around the chancel. Its interior is surrounded by two sacristies, a library, a new chapter house and 14 chapels (one of these is also an entrance to the church). Even though each of the chapels is worthy of notice, they are overshadowed by two wonders of the cathedral: the Gniezno Doors and the relics of St. Adalbert. The bronze doors decorated with 18 scenes depicting the history of life and death of St. Adalbert, from his birth to placing his remains in the grave, are the most magnificent work of Romanesque art in
GNIEZNO During the tribal period Wzgórze Lecha (Lech’s Hill) was a centre of pagan cults. A gord which was established here around year 940 became one of the most Cathedral in Gniezno, photo: Archive of the Distrcit Office in Gniezno
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Reliquary of St. Adalbert in Gniezno Cathedral, photo: Z. Schmidt
Poland also ranking among the most important artefacts of this type in Europe. The doors, which were cast ca. 1170-1180, presumably in Gniezno, are credited to artists from the Mosan area. The left wing of the doors (cast in once piece) is 328 cm high and 84 cm wide; the right (composed from 24 separate segments) is 323 x 83 cm. The doors are framed with a uniquely beautiful Gothic portal. Yet, of greatest significance for the faithful are St. Adalbert’s relics placed in the central part of the chancel. The early Baroque reliquary from 1662 (work of Piotr van der Rennen, a goldsmith from Gdańsk) stands on a black marble pedestal and has a form of a silver coffin whose cover holds a lying figure of the saint wearing bishop’s gown. The reliquary is carried by six eagles and supported on the shoulders of kneel-
ing figures representing four social groups: knights, burghers, peasants and clergymen. The latter figures were sculpted in 1895 by a renowned artist from Poznań Władysław Marcinkowski. Restored (after being desecrated by burglars in 1986) the reliquary returned to the church in 1987. A restored baldachin, modelled after Bernini’s masterpiece from St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome was placed over the reliquary in the second half of the 1990s. Behind, we can see a reconstructed Gothic tomb effigy of St. Adalbert; the original dating from ca. 1480 was the work of Hans Brandt, a sculptor from Gdańsk. Yet the history of Gniezno is not limited to Wzgórze Lecha, and the cathedral as well as the Archdiocese Museum holding valuable collections. The past of the oldest town in Wielkopolska (it received municipal rights before 1243) can also be seen in the
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Church of St. John the Baptist. Its origins go back to the mid-13th century, yet the Gothic structure which can be seen today was erected one hundred years later. It is definitely worth a visit, otherwise you may miss the chance to see the beautiful late 14th century polychromes painted with al secco method; in spite of preservation efforts they continue fading due to light and humidity. Other attractions of Gniezno include the church owned by Franciscan friars, who were brought here ca. 1259 by Prince Bolesław Pobożny and his wife Jolenta. The church in its contemporary form was established by combining an earlier Franciscan chapel and an oratory of the Order of Saint Clare, which had been founded by Przemysł II. Throughout the following centuries it was reconstructed a number of times. It holds relics of the Blessed Jolenta who spent the final years of her life in a Clarisses monastery. Those interested in the early history should definitely visit the Museum of the Origins of the Polish State. The Museum will surprise visitors not only with its collections but also with the manner in which they are exhibited. A complex of buildings housing the museum as well as an auditorium and a secondary school was erected at ������������� Kostrzewskiego St. during 1973-78. Yet the facility was officially launched and received its name in 1983 when the first Polish multi-media exhibition entitled “The Origins of the Polish State” was ready to be displayed. Since that time the subsequent expositions devoted to medieval Wielkopolska have been presented in the form of an audio-visual performance. The museum focuses mainly on the heritage of the Middle Ages and the history of Gniezno and its region.
in an old tower. This Gothic building dating from the first half of the 15th century, in the Middle Ages used as a town hall, today is a part of the Museum of Pałuki Region. The museum is also in charge of the castle ruins in Wenecja; the castle was erected in the 1380s for Mikołaj from Chomiąża, bearer of the Nałęcz coat of arms who was also called “Bloody Devil”. He may have received this nickname for his wartime exploits, yet according to local legends it resulted from his cruelty towards his subjects. After Mikołaj died the castle was acquired by Gniezno archbishops. Following orders of Primate Bishop Wojciech Jastrzębiec the castle received massive fortifications and became one of the most important strongholds defending this part of Wielkopolska against the Teutonic Knights. Following the peace treaty signed in Toruń in 1466 the castle lost its significance and gradually deteriorated. Today its only remains are parts of the outer walls and the interior courtyard. Tower in Żnin, photo: Z. Schmidt
Settlement in Biskupin, photo: Z. Schmidt
BISKUPIN
insula) comprising an area of 2 hectares. It was surrounded with a massive breakwater structure built of oak and pine logs designed to protect the shores against the damaging impact of water and to hinder access to the settlement. We do not know when exactly and why the settlement was abandoned – archaeologists estimate that it existed for about 100-150 years. Its area was then flooded and silted up. The area today holding the Biskupin reserve was occupied by settlements during the Middle Ages, as well. From the 7th until the 11th century in the former location of the Lusatian settlement there was a gord in its southern part protected by a tall wall. Around the gord there were a few smaller settlements – 26 settlers living in one of them were listed by name in the Papal Bull issued in 1136 by Innocent II. In the area of another settlement, existing from the 9th to 11th century an early medieval village is currently being reconstructed; in the future it will hold presentations of early medieval crafts. The gord dating from the Piast times
The best known archeological site in Poland was discovered by chance by a local teacher Walenty Szwajcer in 1933, and initially was explored by a renowned archeologist, Professor Józef Kostrzewski. From 1936 visitors’ imagination was stimulated by the first reconstructions of the settlement, built by the Excavation Expedition and based on the original remnants. After World War II the reconstructions, which had been destroyed by the Nazis, were rebuilt and expanded. The discoveries made here include traces of human dwellings ranging from the Paleolithic Age to early medieval times. The best known is the settlement representing Lusatian culture from the early Iron Age. Dendrochronological examinations revealed that the first trees were cut down for this construction in 748 BCE, while the largest amount of lumber was obtained in the winter of 738/737 BCE. The settlement was built on a marshy island (today a pen-
ŻNIN Żnin was established in the location of an early medieval settlement; we do not know precisely when it received municipal rights. It was however mentioned as early as 1136 in the papal bull issued by Innocent II. Today we can learn about the town’s history from an exposition displayed
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Województwo Lubuskie
LESZNO
Województwo Zachodniopomorskie
GIECZ
POBIEDZISKA
OSTRÓW LEDNICKI
Województwo Pomorskie
OSTRÓW WLKP.
GRZYBOWO
GNIEZNO
STRZELNO
Województwo Opolskie
KALISZ
TRZEMESZNO
MOGILNO
BISKUPIN
KONIN
Województwo Kujawsko-Pomorskie
KRUSZWICA
as well as the nearby settlements were probably destroyed during the invasion of Bretislaus in 1038. Since the 1980s research in the field of experimental archaeology has been conducted here. This involves the study of animal breeding, cultivation of plant species which are unknown today, production of pine tar and ceramics, as well as investigating construction methods. Results of the experiments have allowed for resolving many erroneous assumptions previously adopted in archaeology.
was dismantled by the Prussians in 1836). Over the following two centuries the church was altered to include Gothic features. Again in the second half of the 18th century in course of thorough reconstruction works conducted by Abbot Michał Kosmowski, who also founded the renowned local gymnasium, the church was altered in Baroque style. In 1945 the church was burnt down by the Nazis. It was rebuilt in 1960. Everything that could be reconstructed was restored, the surviving Romanesque features such as fragments of walls, and two columns in the main nave, were carefully uncovered and highlighted. Today the church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary is a three-nave basilica with a cross-shaped layout and a dome. Original artefacts which have survived since the times of the Canons Regular include two beautiful 12th century chalices made of silver and partly gilded. Due to their great value they are kept in the Museum of Gniezno Archdiocese. One of these, called Dąbrówka’s chalice, must have been used for celebrating mass. It was brought to Poland and it is difficult to determine where it was made. The other one, slightly smaller, is called the royal chalice and may have been used as a vessel for chrism during the liturgical anointment of a monarch.
TRZEMESZNO The Order of Canons Regular, or Norbertines were brought to Trzemeszno from Flanders in the early 12th century by Bolesław Krzywousty. They built here a three-nave Romanesque basilica, which then in the 13th century was expanded. At the same time the monks built a brick monastery (it survived until the 19th century and Basilica in Trzemeszno, photo: Archive of the Town and Commune Office in Trzemeszno
MOGILNO For nearly 800 years the history of Mogilno was linked with Benedictine monks who were brought here from Tyniec in 1065 by Bolesław Śmiały. The monks came to a gord which had been established in the 10th century in the location of an earlier settlement. In the 11th century they built the large basilica of St. John the Apostle, which was one of the most monumental Romanesque structures in Poland. The three-nave church with a transept had a chancel ending with an apse, and on the western side there was a tower. Subsequent alterations changed its style – in the second half of the 13th century it received late-Romanesque features, in the
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Church interior in Strzelno, photo: Z. Schmidt
Basilica in Mogilno, photo: Z. Schmidt
14th a Gothic ceiling was added, and then in the 18th Century Baroque elements were introduced. This way its main altar with a painting of Our Lady of the Snows received its final Rococo ornamentation. In the course of excavations conducted in the 1970s a unique two-level chancel was unearthed here – today it can be seen in the eastern vault. In the central crypt we can see an exhibition depicting the findings of archeological explorations; of notice in the western crypt is the Romanesque cross vault supported with one pillar. In the middle of the garth surrounded by old monastery buildings archeologists uncovered an 11th century well which in the 1400s was filled in. The monastery buildings which can be seen there today date from the 16th and 18th century and are home to the European Centre of Meetings “Wojciech-Adalbert”.
Yet, while looking at the façade of the post-Norbertine Church of the Holy Trinity it is difficult to guess the value of this Romanesque structure. Its current appearance is a result of the comprehensive reconstruction works conducted in the second quarter of the 18th century (the first alterations were introduced in the early 1500s). The resulting Baroque features, including brickwork covering the Romanesque columns separating the naves, survived until 1946. Only after the brickwork was removed were the original pillars revealed – to these Strzelno owes its fame even today. The two eastern columns in the main nave hold sculpted personifications of 18 Virtues (the southern pillar) and 18 Vices (the northern pillar). Arranged in three tiers the figures are contained within arcade-shaped frames. The Virtues (from bottom) are: Justice, Prudence, Temperance, Respect, and Patience; in the middle: Meekness, Faith, Prayer; top tier: Purity, Modesty, Piety, Serenity, and Obedience. The column of Vices shows the following, in the bottom tier: Conceit, Wrath, and Blasphemy; in the middle: Idolatry, Gluttony, Homicide, Disobedience, Perjury; upper tier: Envy, Indolence, Impurity, and Debauchery (the latter is depicted by three figures). Due to their poor condition some of the bas-reliefs are difficult to interpret – five virtues and four vices still have not been deciphered. One thing is certain: the con-
STRZELNO The churches in Strzelno belong to the most valuable buildings along the Piast Route.The Church of the Holy Trinity and the Rotunda of St. Procopius were both erected in the late 12th and early 13th centuries in a location which previously did not have any human settlements. It was founded by the Palatine of Kujawy, Piotr Wszeborowic, who brought Norbertine nuns to Strzel������� no.
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tents of the artwork visible on the columns in Strzelno show that Norbertine nuns were well acquainted with theological treatises of their times. Similarly the ornaments within the tympanum over the portal in the northern nave, dating from the early 1200s, clearly make a reference to the Holy Trinity, and the invocation given to the church in 1216. There are also two older tympana from the late 1100s – one containing a scene of Annunciation and the other holding a representation of the church founders: a man holding a model of the church and a woman with a book; they are kneeling next to St. Anne who is holding the small Mary in her arms. Extremely interesting here is also the Rotunda of St. Procopius, the largest Romanesque structure with a circular layout in Poland. It may have been designed as a place for safekeeping for relics of the Holy Cross, and in fact this was still its invocation in 1779 as the cult of St. Procopius did not emerge here until the mid 18th century. It is also possible it was the founder’s family mausoleum. Over the centuries the rotunda experienced changing fortune, and it incurred the most severe damage in the 17th century and then in the 19th – when the advancing Napoleon’s army used it for stables. Later for 80 years it was used as a storehouse. It was not until 1892 that its reconstruction was initiated; it was reinstated as a church in 1925.
Church in Inowrocław, photo: Z. Schmidt
St. Mary’s Church was built of cut granite probably on the site formerly holding another Slavic church. The fact that throughout its history fires frequently caused its ruin contributed to this common name which is used even today even though there are no reasons for it. The church was rebuilt in 1901 in accordance with the rules of Romanesque architecture. This is a single-nave structure and its front façade is crowned with two towers embellished with pairs of double-windows typical of Romanesque style. KRUSZWICA Is it possible that the Collegiate Church of Sts. Peter and Paul in Kruszwica is a monastery church? This hypothesis was based on a reference from 1185 which directly mentioned a St. Peter Monastery. Additionally, researchers were inspired to make such an assumption by the structure of the building. In its eastern side we can see a picturesque arrangement of various sections, which is a characteristic feature of churches representing reformed monastic architecture. However, no traces of monastic buildings have ever been found in the vicinity of the church. Therefore many other researchers believe it was once a cathedral of the Bishops of Kujawy; their seat was relocated
INOWROCŁAW Ironically, one of the purest examples of Romanesque architecture in Poland, the Church of the Name of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Inowrocław is commonly called “a Ruin”. The church was erected in the late 12th century, which is more or less the time when the first reference to Inowrocław, at the time named Novo Wladislaw, appeared in written documents, dating in fact from 1185. Yet, it is assumed that the settlement which received municipal rights in the mid 13th century had existed here in the period of the early Piasts.
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you can admire a wonderful panorama of Lake Gopło and the town. Archaeological research conducted during 2007-2011 allowed for determining the dimensions of the castle and delineating its outer walls. Parts of the castle walls, which were unearthed and secured, are now a tourist attraction. Similarly two Gothic cellars have been uncovered and restored and now are open to visitors. Additionally, the castle entrance gate has been reconstructed just like a wooden bascule bridge which now is a viewing point. The area today holding the Mice Tower was occupied by settlements during the period of Lusatian culture, ca. 500 BCE. During the Roman times Kruszwica was located along the Amber Trail. A settlement was here during the 8th and 9th century and recent archeological research revealed that a gord enclosed within earth and wood embankments had been built here in the last quarter of the 10th century. The findings unearthed within the gord include relics of wooden buildings and the church of St. Vitus. You can learn about the earliest history of Kruszwica while visiting an archeological exposition at No. 3, Popiela St.
Collegiate church in Kruszwica, photo: Z. Schmidt
to Włocławek in the first half of the 12th century. Undoubtedly, the collegiate church in Kruszwica ranks among the most beautiful examples of Romanesque architecture in Poland. Its beauty is enhanced particularly by five semi-circular apses of varying height embellishing its eastern wall. Its southern wall retains three Romanesque portals and inside we can see a Romanesque baptismal font and holy water font. Dating from the early 12th century this is a three-nave structure with a transept. On the other hand,the times of Kazimierz Wielki, the last monarch from the Piast dynasty, are remembered here by Mysia Wieża (Mice Tower), located at the base of Rzępowski Peninsula, which projects into Lake Gopło. Its name suggests that it should be the place where, in accordance with a legend, the cruel man named Popiel was devoured by mice. It should be but it is not, as it was built in times when Popiel himself was only remembered in legends. It is a remnant of a castle which in the mid 14th century was built by Kazimierz Wielki, and designed to be a stronghold on the border between Poland and areas occupied by the Teutonic Knights. The castle was burnt down by the Swedish army in 1657. Its ruins were dismantled in the 18th century – and the only remnant is the tower from which
PŁOWCE The Battle of Płowce which took place on 27 September 1331 between the army of Władysław Łokietek and the divisions of the Teutonic Order commanded by Otto von Lutterberg, Komtur of Chełmno, is remembered in history as the first Polish victory over the Teutonic Order. And although historians still have varying opinions on the course of the battle and its result, the fact that the army of theTeutonic Knights retreated meant the end of their campaign undertaken at the time in the territories under Polish authority. The first monument commemorating the battle was erected here in 1818 and survived until the First World War. In 1931, on the 600th anniversary of the battle of Płowce a 20 metre tall mound was built –
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it was destroyed during World War II. The mound was rebuilt in 1961 and on top of it a monument of the battle of Płowce was erected to the design by Stefan Zarębski.
of the classicist palace – today holding the seat of the Bishop of Włocławek. On the other hand the Gothic Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, reconstructed several times throughout the centuries, has survived in excellent condition. It was built outside thethen borders of the town on the steep embankment of the Wisła River in course of a long period of time from 1340 to 1526, yet it was consecrated in 1411 after works on the main body of the church were completed. The remnants from those times include 22 segments from Gothic stained-glass windows which now are displayed in one of the side chapels. In the 16th century new chapels were added. Then in the late 19th and early 20th century, in course of alteration works to the design by Konstanty Wojciechowski the cathedral received neo-Gothic features. The church, which in 1907 acquired the status of basilica minor, retains valuable furnishings from various periods, including the 15th century tomb effigy of Piotr Moszyński from Bnin, the Bishop of Kujawy – a work of Veit Stoss; a late Gothic painting of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary from 1475; a wooden figure of the Madonna from the early 15th century as well as a sculpture depicting the Last Supper from 1505. The past of the city on the Wisła River can be explored in the Museum of Włocławek History located in two Baroque townhouses at Stary Rynek.
BRZEŚĆ KUJAWSKI Władysław, by God’s will king of Poland, master and heir of Kraków, San���� domierz��������������������������������� , Łęczyca, Kujawy and Sieradz Regions. This was the official title of Władysław Łokietek, who was born in 1360 or 1361 in Brześć Kujawski, which from 1255 was the capital of Brześć Kujawski District. Today we are reminded about his links with the town and the region by the king’s monument located in the square named after him. The bronze statue, the work of Tadeusz Wojtasik, a sculptor from Toruń was unvailed in 2008 on the 677th anniversary of the battle of Płowce. The Gothic church of St. Stanislaus the Bishop is a witness of the town’s earliest history. It was built after 1332, on the site previously occupied by an earlier structure. Following fires in the 16th and 17th century it was rebuilt in the early 18th, and later in the early 20th century (during 1906-1908) it was reconstructed in neo-Gothic style to the design of Tomasz Pajzderski. Similarly the main altar, in the form of a triptych represents neo-Gothic style. The church interior is ornamented with Art Nouveau polychromes by Juliusz Makarewicz. WŁOCŁAWEK
In Kowal near Włocławek, where Kazimierz Wielki was born his monument was unveiled in 2010, on the 700th anniversary of the King’s birth. The granite statue, 4 metres tall (with the pedestal – 7 m), and weighing 18 tonnes is a work of Tadeusz Biniewicz.
was acquired by the Cistercians who were brought here from Altenberg near Cologne by Zbylut. They built their first church-oratory in the mid 12th century. In the second half of the 13th century the original structure was transformed into a hall church, built of stone and brick. In the first half of the 14th century the church building developed cracks and in spite of numerous efforts to repair it, it could not be saved. The damage to the church was probably the main cause of relocating the abbey to Wągrowiec. All these facts are known to us thanks to the excavations conducted here during 1982-2007 by Łekno Archaeological Expedition of the Institute of History at Adam Mickiewicz University in Poznań, under the guidance of Professor Andrzej M. Wyrwa. Unfortunately, what is left here of the two fortified settlements (tribal and early Piast) and the monastery is buried deep in the ground, and the place is waiting for an open air archaeological exposition to be established.
Trail 2: Łekno – Wagrowiec – Gniezno – Grzybowo – Giecz – Ląd – Konin – Kalisz ŁEKNO The first fortified settlement in Łekno was established in the third quarter of the 7th century – indeed this is one of the oldest known early-medieval settlements of this type in Poland. It burnt down in the first half of the 10th century, and was rebuilt in the middle of that century in accordance with the needs of the new state which was being established at the time by the Piast dynasty. In the late 10th and early 11th century a Romanesque rotunda was built here, being one of the first structures of this type in Poland. The settlement was presumably abandoned after 1136-1138, following the changes in the organization of the state which took place after the death of Duke Bolesław Krzywousty. In 1153 the area
WĄGROWIEC The history of Wągrowiec, from its beginning until 1796, when the monastery estate was taken over by the Prussian state (ultimately the monastery was dissolved in 1835) was linked with the Cistercians. In the late 1300s the Cistercians initiated efforts to relocate their seat from Łekno to Wągrowiec, and they started the construction of their church and monastery here. The church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, and Sts. Peter and Paul was completed ca. 1455, and the monastery in 1512. Yet, the original Gothic church is no longer there. In the late 1600s Jan Catenazzi rebuilt it in Baroque style. During the partitions of Poland, when its parts were acquired by Prussia, Russia and Austria, the church was used by the local parish and the monastery was converted into a court house and a prison. Destroyed in 1945, the post-Cistercian complex was reconstructed during a process which lasted until 1968. The three-wing monastery
Church and monastery in Wągrowiec, photo: Archive of the Town Office in Wągrowiec
The history of Włocławek is as long as the history of Poland, and the gord which existed here in the times of Bolesław Chrobry was powerful enough to organize an armed party which then was put at the disposal of the monarch. From the 12th century Włocławek was the capital of the Kujawy diocese and in the first half of the 14th century a castle was built here and the construction of a cathedral was initiated – both edifices were founded by Bishop Maciej from Gołańcz. The only relics of the castle which have survived are hidden in the walls
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excavations gradually unravel the mysteries connected with Giecz. Today we know for sure that the gord was not built earlier than the first half of the 10th century, when the Piasts established the most important gords in the middle of their newly established territory. It was most prosperous in the 11th century - in spite of the damage incurred during the invasion of Bretislaus Giecz was restored into full bloom, and only in the 13th century it finally lost importance. Presumably before the end of the 10th century construction of duke’s palatium was initiated. Although it was never completed we can see from its foundations (the only completed part) that the intended layout was very similar to that of the palatium at Ostrów Lednicki. We do not know why the construction was abandoned. Archaeologists have shown that it happened in the late 10th/early 11th century, which is 30 years before the invasion of Bretislaus in 1038; the latter event was believed to have been related to the fact that the construction of the residence was forgone. Excavations conducted near the 18th century wooden church of St. John the Baptist allowed for uncovering a massive Romanesque church whose construction had been conducted in two stages. The older part is dated to the first years of the 11th century, and the newer to the mid 12th century. The whole complex had imposing dimensions – it was approx. 30 metres long and 11 metres wide, including the walls; the interior alone was 9 metres wide. This is a unique structure with an apse which has an underground vault linked with the main nave via a passageway. There were two entrances, therefore it was possible to enter the nave on one side and leave it on the other. A small niche which was uncovered in its interior may have been used as a reliquary crypt. In the eastern, older part of the church the builders used plaster mortar of the same type as the material found at Ostrów Lednicki and Łekno. In the western part of the church lime mortar was applied. Findings unearthed in the latter part include relics of two round towers which used to
Festivals in Grzybowo, photo: Z. Schmidt
building adjoins the church from the south. This is a reconstruction of the late Baroque structure, partly erected on the Gothic walls of the earlier building. The monastery surrounds a garth with a well and a figure of St. John of Nepomuk. Cistercian landmarks which can still be seen in Wągrowiec include a former abbot’s house (reconstructed and renovated) from the late 18th century, today housing the Regional Museum in which visitors can learn about the history of the ŁeknoWągrowiec abbey.
a museum pavilion located in the area of the gord, at an exhibition arranged in the form of an archaeological dig. The first archaeological excavations were conducted in Grzybowo during the 1870s. In the 1930s the site was explored by a local secondary school student, Olgierd Brzeski, who returned here in the late 1980s and 90s. In 1991 he established the Brzeski Foundation at the Poznań Society for the Advancement of the Arts and Sciences – it provides funding for the research conducted here. In order to promote the historical knowledge of the gord in 2000 the Society of Friends of Grzybowo Gord was organized. The most impressive findings so far include a few hundred dirham coins and ornaments (possibly a part of the treasure unearthed here in the 19th century), as well as a bronze ring. The research results allow for a conclusion that the gord in Grzybowo was built in two stages: the first small settlement was located in the north-western side of the area, and the other had a layout of the complete site as it has been preserved and comprised an area of nearly 5 hectares, including its earth embankments. The gord, which was
GNIEZNO – see pages 8-10 GRZYBOWO The gord in Grzybowo was established in the 920s and 30s. For the first time alterations were introduced there in the mid 10th century and then again in the early 11th. It probably existed until the mid 11th century, although the research concerning this issue is continued. Its site has survived in good condition and archaeological excavations conducted from the 1990s are gradually unravelling its secrets. Some of the artefacts unearthed on the site are displayed in
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Foundations of the palatium in Giecz, photo: Z. Schmidt
inhabited by approximately 1,000 people, was surrounded with a massive wall built as a sandwich construction. Its interior may have been divided into the main gord and a suburbium, and the buildings were made of wood. Today the area is protected and has a status of archaeological reserve, which is a branch of the Museum of Early Piast Dynasty at Lednica. GIECZ According to the Chronicle by Gallus Anonymus, Giecz ranked among the mightiest gords of Poland in the times of early Piasts. Mentioned next to Poznań and Gniezno, it held a significant position in the state which was being built by the first rulers of the dynasty. Due to its location it was a strategic establishment which was to provide protection from the south for the major gords of the early Piasts - it is situated approximately 25 kilometres from Gniezno and Ostrów Lednicki and 30 kilometres south east of Poznań. Results of the latest archaeological
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have staircases – these may have led to galleries. Additionally the dimensions of the stairs, which were 1 metre wide, were unusual for those times. The uncovered church walls and the massive defensive embankments surrounding the gord allow for a conclusion that this must have been a residential establishment. The question why the palatium was never built here remains an unsolved mystery. On the other hand research conducted in the 12th century Romanesque church of St. Nicholas located within an old market-type settlement revealed remnants of its older structure dating from the first half of the 11th century. This fact alone: the
Church in Ląd, photo: Z. Schmidt
discovery of two large churches from the early 11th century which were located so close to each other is evidence of the importance of Giecz in the period when Poland was emerging. You can explore the mysteries of Giecz while having a walk around the archaeological reserve, viewing the permanent exposition in the museum or visiting the educational village where various kinds of medieval buildings are displayed. The Giecz Reserve is a branch of the Museum of Early Piast Dynasty at Lednica.
Festival in Ląd, photo: Z. Schmidt
LĄD From the late 9th and early 10th century the area held a fortified settlement guarding the crossing of the Warta river. It is assumed to have been a seat of a castellany from the mid 11th century. The remains of two churches (of St. Peter and St. Andrew) unearthed in its area bear witness to the rank and significance of the gord. In the 12th century Prince Mieszko III Stary brought Cistercian monks to Ląd from Łekno. The church and monastery, which they left behind, constitute the most magnificent postCistercian complex in Wielkopolska and have been entered on the List of the Monuments of History. Presumably the foundation of the abbey was finally approved after 1193. This
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Mile post in Konin, photo: Archive of the Town Office in Konin
Church of St. Bartholomew in Konin, photo: Archive of the Town Office in Konin
was when the original monastery and a Romanesque church were built. The latter did not survive but in the course of later alterations its remains were incorporated into the new structure. The features which today can be admired in Ląd date from the times of the Baroque reconstruction of the church and monastery which was initiated in 1651. The Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary, Help of Christians, and St. Nicholas is crowned with a magnificent 38-metre dome designed by Pompeo Ferrari, with a splendid polychrome by Georg Neunhertz depicting the apotheosis of the Church. Next to the church there is the monastery embellished with frescoes by Adam Swach and the oratory chapel of St. James the Apostle with a group of frescoes from the second half of the 1300s ranking among the most valuable examples of medieval art in Poland. The paintings on the chapel ceiling depict scenes from the Last Judgement. The chapter house, from the second half of the 1300’s, is covered with a Gothic vault supported on a single pillar. On the second floor of the monastery we can see an imposing former Abbey Hall with a large plafond, painted by Adam Swach in 1722. It
depicts personifications of the seven deadly sins approaching the abyss, and a procession of the holy bearing crosses and following Christ into heaven. Today the Abbey Hall houses the library of the theological seminary of the Salesian Order. The Cistercian abbey in Ląd was dissolved in 1819 by the Tsarist authorities. In 1921 the post-Cistercian buildings were acquired by Salesian monks, who are in charge of the place today. KONIN In the 12th century the place was occupied by a gord with a market-type settlement which was part of the trade route from Kalisz to Kruszwica. Konin, which had been established as a municipality in accordance with Magdeburg laws before 1293, was destroyed by the Teutonic Knights in 1331. It was rebuilt during the reign of King Kazimierz Wielki, who also built a castle here and enclosed the town within walls. Today the only remnant of this fact is the medieval urban layout in the part of Konin on the left bank of the river. The Gothic church of St. Bartholomew is one of the oldest historic monuments of Konin. This three-nave basilica-
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Piast Gord in Kalisz, photo: Archive of the Town Office in Kaliszu Piast Gord in Kalisz, photo: Archive of the Town Office in Kalisz
type building was erected in the late 14th and early 15th century, and its furnishings represent various historical periods. In front of the church we can see a genuine Romanesque sandstone pole of 252 cm, with a Latin inscription carved in capital letters and informing that the pole was commissioned by a Comes palatinus named Piotr and built in 1151 in the middle of the road linking Kalisz and Kruszwica. This is the oldest road sign in Europe beyond the borders of the Roman Empire. It was relocated to the square in front of the church in 1828. Before that it stood near the castle which once was here.
ry) and then a gord in the early period of the Piast dynasty were established in the overflow area of the Prosna today occupied by the district of Zawodzie. In Chronicles by Gallus Anonymus the gord in Kalisz is mentioned as early as 1106, but the period of its greatness is dated to the times of Duke Mieszko III Stary. Its fall started in 1233, resulting from the destruction caused by the invasion by Duke Henryk Brodaty. That is when the centre of medieval Kalisz was relocated to a different place. Ultimately the gord at Zawodzie was demolished during the invasion of the Teutonic Knights in 1331. Today the area of the old settlement holds an archaeological reserve with replicas of old buildings, called “Piast Gord in Kalisz” (Kaliski Gród Piastów). Excavations conducted here unearthed relics of the collegiate church of St. Paul erected by Duke Mieszko III in the mid 1100s as well as the presumed tombs of Duke Mieszko III Stary and his son Mieszko Mieszkowic. The foundations and basement of the Romanesque collegiate church were reconstructed and in its interior the outline of the first wooden church dating from the mid 11th century was delineated. Other reconstructed elements include the entrance gate with a bridge, palisade and stockade. A
KALISZ Historians still argue whether the famous Calisia, which in the mid second century was mentioned in Geographia by the Greek geographer, astronomer and mathematician Claudius Ptolemy from Alexandria, is a reference to our city of Kalisz or Calisia in Moravia. One thing which is certain is that in Roman times the Amber Road passed through this area; the evidence for this claim has been provided by archaeological excavations as well as a treasure trove containing Roman coins found here, which confirm the fact that during Roman times there was a settlement on the Prosna river. A tribal settlement (mid 9th centu-
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Dorotka Tower, photo: Archive of the Town Hall in Kalisz
Piast Gord in Kalisz, photo: Archive of the Town Hall in Kalisz
wooden defensive tower and palisade were added to the surviving original fragment of the defensive wall. Additionally seven residential buildings of varying size and structure were built within the reserve. We can learn about the Piast settlement and the Romanesque collegiate church while looking at their scale models. Artefacts excavated by archaeologists at Zawodzie are in the custody of the District Museum of Kalisz Region and can be seen there. It is assumed that in 1257 Duke Bolesław Pobożny presented the place with municipal rights. In the second half of the 13th century Duke Przemysł II presumably built a castle which was then significantly expanded by King Kazimierz Wielki. Unfortunately the only remnants of the castle are fragments of its foundations, which today are included into a small archaeological reserve. King Kazimierz Wielki surrounded the town with defensive walls whose fragments can still be seen today. These are overlooked by a 14th century tower called Dorotka. The history of two churches founded by Duke Bolesław Pobożny goes back to the beginnings of the local municipality.
These are the Franciscan church with notable features in the chancel including windows with beautiful tracery from the late 13th century; and the church of St. Nicholas which in 1992 received the status of a cathedral. From the 14th to the 19th century the church was owned by Canons Regular of the Lateran who were brought to Kalisz by King Kazimierz Wielki. A three-nave hall church, the cathedral from the west is adjoined by a Gothic tower which in the 1800s received an additional floor. Its Gothic character today is most clearly seen in the chancel covered with the 16th century lierne vault. The interior features mainly Baroque style furnishings. The main altar contains an image of the Descent from the Cross; the original painting made in the Antwerp studio of Peter Paul Rubens, presumably in 1662, was probably destroyed by fire in 1973 and its copy was executed by Bronisław Owczarek.
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USEFUL INFORMATION
KALISZ Archaeological Reserve – Piast Gord in Kalisz ul. Bolesława Pobożnego 87-105, 62-800 Kalisz tel. 62 757 16 08 (museum) tel. 691 99 65 28 (reserve) www.muzeum.kalisz.pl Cathedral of St. Nicholas ul. Kanonicka 5, 62-800 Kalisz tel. 62 757 59 74, www.katedra.kalisz.pl KONIN Church of St. Bartholomew ul. Kościelna 1, 62-505 Konin tel. 63 242 87 48, www.bartlomiej.konin.pl KRUSZWICA Collegiate Church of Saints. Peter and Paul ul. Kolegiacka 26, 88-150 Kruszwica tel. 52 351 60 40, www.kolegiatakruszwica.pl Mysia Wieża (Mice Tower) ul. Podzamcze, 88-150 Kruszwica tel. 52 351 53 03 Archaeological Exposition ul. Popiela 3, 88-150 Kruszwica tel. 52 567 46 85 LĄD Higher Theological Seminary of the Salesian Order Ląd 101, 62 - 406 Lądek tel. 63 276 33 23, fax 63 274 37 85 www.lad.pl LUBIŃ Benedictine Abbey ul. Mickiewicza 6, 64-010 Lubiń tel. 65 517 72 22, fax 65 517 74 44 www.benedyktyni.net MOGILNO Church of St. John the Apostle ul. Benedykta XVI nr 1, 88-300 Mogilno tel. 52 315 24 08, fax 52 315 14 21 www.klasztor.mogilno.com.pl OSTRÓW LEDNICKI Museum of Early Piast Dynasty at Lednica Dziekanowice 32, 62-261 Lednogóra tel. 61 427 50 10, fax 61 427 50 20 www.lednicamuzeum.pl POBIEDZISKA Open-air Museum of Miniatures 62-010 Pobiedziska Letnisko tel. 61 817 78 22 POZNAŃ Archcathedral Basilica of Saint Peter and Saint Paul ul. Ostrów Tumski 17 tel./fax 61 852 96 42 www.katedra.archpoznan.org.pl Archdiocese Museum ul. Jana Lubrańskiego 1 (Lubrański Academy) tel./ fax61 852 61 95, www.muzeum.poznan.pl
“Piast Route” Tourist Organization ul. Rynek 14, 62-200 Gniezno tel./fax 61 428 41 00 www.szlakpiastowski.com.pl Most interesting sights along the Piast Route (in alphabetical order) BISKUPIN Archaeological Museum in Biskupin Biskupin 17, 88-410 Gąsawa tel. 52 302 50 25, 52 302 50 55 www.biskupin.pl BRZEŚĆ KUJAWSKI Church of St. Stanislaus the Bishop plac Władysława Łokietka 13 87-880 Brześć Kujawski tel./fax 54 252 12 63 GIECZ Archaeological Reserve Ealy Piast Gord in Giecz Grodziszczko, 63-012 Dominowo tel. 61 285 92 22 www.lednicamuzeum.pl GNIEZNO Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary ul. Łaskiego 9, 62-200 Gniezno tel. 61 428 40 80 62, www.archidiecezja.pl Franciscan church nd monastery – Sanctuary of Our Lady of Consolation ul. Franciszkańska 12, 62-200 Gniezno tel./fax 61 426 15 56 www.gniezno.franciszkanie.pl Church of St. John the Baptist ul. św. Jana, 62-200 Gniezno tel. 61 426 21 02 Museum of Gniezno Archdiocese ul. Kolegiaty 2, 62-200 Gniezno tel. 61 426 37 78, www.muzeumag.pl Museum of the Origins of the Polish State ul. Kostrzewskiego 1, 62-200 Gniezno tel. 61 426 46 4, fax 61 426 48 41 www.mppp.pl GRZYBOWO Archaeological Reserve – Gord in Grzybowo Grzybowo 10a, 62-300 Września tel. 61 88 000 76, www.lednicamuzeum.pl INOWROCŁAW Church of the Name of the Blessed Virgin Mary ul. bpa A. Laubitza 9, 88-100 Inowrocław tel. 52 357 31 31, 52 357 15 42 www.imienia.pl
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Church of St. John of Jerusalem, Beyond the Walls ul. Świętojańska 1 tel. 61 877 17 17 STRZELNO Church of the Holy Trinity plac św. Wojciecha 1, 88-320 Strzelno tel. 52 318 92 81, www.trojcastrzelno.za.pl Rotunda of St. Procopius plac św. Wojciecha 2, 88-320 Strzelno tel. 52 318 92 81 TRZEMESZNO Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary ul. Kosmowskiego 8, 62-240 Trzemeszno tel. 61 415 42 46, www.parafiatrzemeszno.pl WĄGROWIEC Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary ul. Klasztorna 21, 62-100 Wągrowiec tel. 67 262 01 25 www. klasztor-wagrowiec.yoyo.pl Regional Museum ul. Opacka 15, 62-100 Wągrowiec tel. 67 26 85 911, 515 04 19 38 www.opatowka.pl WŁOCŁAWEK Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary pl. Kopernika 7, 87-800 Włocławek tel. 54 231 22 32, 518 01 46 73 www.parafiakatedralna.q4.pl Museum of Włocławek History ul. Szpichlerna 19, 87-800 Włocławek tel. 54 232 67 43, www.muzeum.wloclawek.pl ŻNIN Museum of Pałuki Region pl. Wolności 1, 88-400 Żnin tel./fax 52 302 02 93 Wenecja tel./fax 52 302 51 50 www. muzeumznin.pl
Orzeł Hotel ul. Wrzesińska 25, 62-200 Gniezno tel. 61 426 49 25 www.hotelorzel.com Adalbertus Hotel ul. Tumska 7a, 62-200 Gniezno tel./fax 61 426 13 60 www.pietrak.pl School Youth Hostel ul. Pocztowa 11, 62-200 Gniezno tel./fax 61 426 27 80 Interesting events: Biskupin * Archaeological Festival (September) Gniezno * St. Adalbert celebration (April) * International Organ Festival (July) * Royal Coronation (July) Grzybowo * International Gathering of Slavic Warriors (August) Kalisz * Kalisz Theatre Festival (May) * Archaeological Fairs (June) * Piast Gathering (August) * Royal-style honey-seeking (September) Kruszwica * Historical performance (July) Ląd * Festival of Slavic and Cistercian Culture (June) Ostrów Lednicki * Eve of Kupala Day (June) - Ostrów Lednicki and Small Open-air Museum * In the gord of Duke Mieszko (September/ October) - Ostrów Lednicki Poznań * carol singing (in the Cathedral nearly 2,000 children from all over Wielkopolska play carols on recorders) January (the first Saturday after Epiphany) * Vilnius-style Casimir’s Day (March) * Days of the Lancer (April) * St. John’s Fairs (June) * Poznan Day (29 June) * Malta – International Theatre Festival (June/ July) * Bambers’ Festival (August – first Saturday following 1 August) * Name day of St. Martin Street (11 November) Płowce * Knights’ Tournament – enactment of the battle of Płowce (August) Wągrowiec * Cistercian Festival (July)
Selected Accommodation GNIEZNO Gewert Hotel ul. Paczkowskiego 2, 62-200 Gniezno tel. 61 428 23 75, fax 61 425 33 43 www.gewert.gniezno.pl Lech Hotel ul. bł. Jolenty 5, 62-200 Gniezno tel. 61 426 23 85, www.hotel-lech.pl Mieszko Hotel ul. Strumykowa 2, 62-200 Gniezno tel. 61 426 46 25/ 28 www.hotelmieszko.gniezno.pl
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Tourist Information Poznań 61-772 Poznań, Stary Rynek 59/60 tel. 61 852 61 56, 61 855 33 79 it@cim.poznan.pl
Leszno 64-100 Leszno, ul. Słowiańska 24 tel. 65 529 81 91, 65 529 81 92 infotur@leszno.pl
Entrance, ul.27 Grudnia 61-816 Poznań, ul. Ratajczaka 44 tel. 61 851 96 45, 61 856 04 54 centrum@cim.poznan.pl
Nowy Tomyśl 64-300 Nowy Tomyśl pl. Niepodległości 10 tel. 61 442 38 06 r.ratajczak@nowytomysl.pl
Poznań International Fair 60-734 Poznań, ul. Głogowska 14 tel. 61 869 20 84 centrum@cim.poznan.pl
Piła 64-920 Piła, al. Niepodległości 33/35 tel. 67 210 94 80 pit@powiat.pila.pl
Airport Poznań-Ławica 60-189 Poznań, ul. Bukowska 285 tel. 61 849 21 40 lawica@cim.poznan.pl
Puszczykowo 62-040 Puszczykowo, ul. Poznańska 1 tel. 61 633 62 83, 61 898 37 11 promocja@puszczykowo.pl
Poznań Railway Station 60-801 Poznań, ul. Dworcowa 1 tel. 61 866 06 67 info@globtourfb.poznan.pl
Śrem 63-100 Śrem, ul. Okulickiego 3 tel. 61 283 27 04 unia@srem.com.pl Wolsztyn 64-200 Wolsztyn ul. Roberta Kocha 12a tel. 68 347 31 04 gci@wolsztyn.pl
Gniezno 62-200 Gniezno, ul. Rynek 14 tel. 61 428 41 00 info@szlakpiastowski.com.pl Kalisz 62-800 Kalisz, ul. Zamkowa tel. 62 598 27 31 it@um.kalisz.pl
www.szlakpiastowski.com.pl
Konin 62-510 Konin, ul. Dworcowa 2 tel. 63 246 32 48 biuro@lotmarina.pl
Publisher: Wielkopolska Tourist Organization ul. 27 Grudnia 17/19, 61-737 Poznań Written by: Anna Plenzler Translation: Timothy Downey Graphic design: Agencja Fotograficzna Studio-F, www.olszewskiphoto.pl Cover photos: Archive of the District Office in Gniezno, W. Wylegalski, Z. Schmidt ISBN: 978-83-61454-47-2 Poznań 2012
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