WG Magazine - a feast for the palate...September 2016 Issue by WG Magazines

WG MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER 2016

a feast for the palate...

YANNICK ALLÉNO®

EXTRACTIONS A REAFFIRMATION OF TASTE

PIERRE GAGNAIRE

A CULINARY HYPOTHESIS

ANDREA BERTON

A MASTERFUL TOUCH

DAVIDE SCABIN

UP&DOWN

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Contemporary Italian cuisine by

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Meet Michelin-starred

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Without a Heart, it’s just a machine. So in 1971, a little Heart built a different kind of airline—one that made sure everyone could fly. Everyone has important places to go. So we invented low-fares to help them get there. Here, we think everyone deserves to feel special, no matter where you sit or how much you fly. And with all the places we’re going next, we’ll always put you first, because our love of People is still our most powerful fuel. Some say we do things differently. We say, why would we do things any other way? Without a Heart, it’s just a machine.

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Geales of London. The original purveyors of seafood nosh since 1939. Now open in Dubai.

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Editor Lifestyle Editor

Fabian deCastro Doug Singer

Culinary Editor

Corey Siegel, CEC®

Culinary Editor

Claudia Ferreres

Feature Editor Contributing Editor

Oilda Barreto Michael Hepworth

FJMdesign Photography Consultant Creative Design Studio Publisher

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WG™ New York Doug Singer - Head of Operations, North America 404 East 66 Street, Suite 2E New York, NY 10065 E-mail: doug@wgmagazines.com WG™ Middle East Representative Cinzia Garau P.O.Box 118138, Dubai, U.A.E. E-mail: cinzia@wgmagazines.com Marketing & Advertising Joel Savio Nazareth Call: +91 832 246 3234 E-mail: joel@wgmagazines.com Web Administrator Joel Savio Nazareth

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Cover Image Credit: Chef Yannick Alléno EXTRACTIONS® Photo © Philippe Vaures Santamaria

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The September issue of WG Magazine is certainly one that will sharpen your culinary desires and make sure you check the expiration date on your passport. Our enlightening Q & A with Paris’ Pierre Gagnaire will illuminate bite by bite, the unfolding of an inspired path. The ‘City of Lights’ will also bring us up close and personal with Yannick Alléno, who advocates a French cuisine that draws its strength from its heritage while celebrating modern creativity. Our European leg will next take us to Italy where we will explore the mind of award-winning chefs Davide Scabin and Andrea Berton, as well as Ana Roš’ Hiša Franko’s restaurant in an Alpine valley close to the Italian border. In Portugal we will stop in and visit Bairro do Avillez, with José Avillez’s new restaurant in Lisbon and Hans Neuner in Algarve. Our final stop before heading off to the United States will bring us a visit with Mauro Colagreco in France. Once in the US we will delve into an extensive Q & A with Cindy Hutson, an untrained yet extremely dynamic chef who is responsible for “the Best Caribbean Restaurant in South Florida.” We will then head up the East Coast and stop in New York for a conversation with Chef Didier Elena, Culinary Director of CHEFS CLUB BY FOOD & WINE, and our final stop in America will be in Los Angeles as we indulge in The Bazaar by José Andrés with Holly Jivin. Syrco Bakker from Cadzand-Bad on the North Sea coast of the Netherlands brings absolute lightness to Hangar-7 Restaurant Ikarus this month of September. This will certainly prepare us for a lengthy trip to Dubai where we will experience the “best burgers in town” at Gourmet Burger Kitchen prior to hitting up at Dubai’s newest entertainment destination - Armani Hotel Dubai who will set the stage for Dubai Opera’s opening season.

The final leg of our journey for this issue will be in India where Grand Hyatt Goa will enlighten us with their Wicked Liquid Brunch which is sure to fortify us for our trip to Pune with Chef Navtej Sawhney’s Arthur’s Theme. Our final indulgence will take place at Ayna, located within Hilton Chennai and inspired by the rich diversity of pan-Indian cuisine. Enjoy! Doug Singer Lifestyle Editor

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SEPTEMBER 2016

MAGAZINE

CONTENTS

154 Chefs Club

The Cuisine Of Pierre Gagnaire

170 Holly Jivin

Extractions® - A Reaffirmation Of Taste

182 Ibiza On The North Sea Coast

78 UP&Down With Davide Scabin

190 Pure Portuguese Pleasure

202 The Best Burgers in Town...

Bairro Do Avillez

108 South Florida’s Most Celebrated Chef

206 Armani Hotel Dubai

120 Ana Roš

214 The Wicked Liquid Brunch

128 Milan’s Most Decorated Chef

218 Navtej Sawhney

140 Cook Without Borders

222 AYNA

Chef Yannick Alléno EXTRACTIONS® Photo © Philippe Vaures Santamaria - WG September 2016

WG MAGAZINE

EXTRACTIONS® Extraction® consists in vacuum-cooking a product for a certain time and at a certain temperature, then collecting from it an exudate that is especially respectful of the original taste of whatever element has been cooked. This new concept was born nearly five years ago, when Chef Yannick Alléno tasted the juice of a terrine he had just cooked, and was amazed by the pure taste of the jelly that had formed. Using this inspiration his objective to intensify the flavours, not to transform them. Creating the perfect distillation of flavours, using modern techniques, his research resulted in a whole collection of jus that are now known as Extractions®.

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E X C E P T I O N A L A L W A Y S B U T

W E ’ L L

T O

H O O S I N G

S T E P M O R E

T O

O N E

W I S H E A C H

O F

O U R

I M P O R T A N T L Y

A N D

A B O U T

P A Y I N G

M O M E N T

I S

T O O

D O

S L O W

D I S C O V E R I N G

PA S S I O N AT E

G O

540

T O

W H AT

T H E M

D O W N .

A T T E N T I O N T R U LY

D O

T O

U N I Q U E

E L A I S

M E E T I N G

T H E Y

M E N

B E S T

T H E

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B U T

A N D

I S

T H E

A L S O

W O M E N

L I S T E N I N G

S L I G H T E S T

RELAIS & CHÂTEAUX

. R E L A I S C H AT E AU X . C O M

H Â T E A U X

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ALL AROUND THE WORLD, UNIQUE IN THE WORLD.

W W W

F A S T .

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M O M E N T S

T O

D E T A I L

F I R S T

P E R H A P S W H O

YO U R T O

A R E

E V E R Y

E N S U R E

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Y U U G ATA A s th e d a y tu r n s t o n i ght, a s th e s ky we l c o m e s th e s ta r s , Bu d dh a - B a r b e c ko n s y ou . J o i n u s f o r th e J ap a n e s e p r e - di n n e r tr a di t i o n o f ' Yu u g ata ' f r o m 7: 0 0 p. m . t o 8 : 3 0 p. m . Su c c ul e nt su s h i a n d r o b ata s a m p l e r s p a i r e d w i th e xo t i c c o c kta i l s , s e rve d e ve ry e ve n i n g i n s tu n n i n g su rr ou n di n g s . A n d d o n ' t wo rry , i f y ou m i s s Yu u g ata , y ou c a n s t i ll di n e a n d l ou n g e l at e i nt o th e n i ght.

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‘ WOGOA FOUNDATION

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Culinary Arts can give new life to children... we make it our mission to identify talented, underprivileged children with culinary ambitions and provide opportunities that otherwise would have been beyond their reach…

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ALBERT ADRIÀ

Albert Adrià

Heinz Beck

Ferràn Adrià

Thank you Chefs for your support to Massimo Bottura

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Carme Ruscalleda

Matt Moran

WG WGMAGAZINES MAGAZINE

Andoni Luis Aduriz

Georgianna & Nikos

José Avillez

WO’GOA Foundation Tae Hwan Ryu

Umberto Bombana

Francesco Apreda

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PIERRE GAGNAIRE

THE CUISINE OF PIERRE GAGNAIRE A CULINARY HYPOTHESIS The exact wording of each of his dishes circles, examines, then delves into the mystery of a science that is initially unfamiliar. To explore this mystery, we must go beyond both word and vision. For though the eye, after the ear, is immediately captivated, it is palate’s task to truly understand. To elucidate, bite after bite, the unfolding of a path, though no step upon this path was hidden from us. The poetry of words thus transforms into flavours. The visual impact and colours upon the plate are lost in a lively, ever-evolving emotion. The cuisine of Pierre Gagnaire is an experience in itself. As one who cooks in the now, a cuisinier de l’immédiat, the chef turns his instincts into moments of grace. In the kitchen, as an alchemiste aux fourneaux, he transcends the raw material to reveal its true substance. Guided by the pull of un principe d’émotions, Pierre Gagnaire has made cuisine a means of expression, a language, one he prefers to be frank and direct, with dishes that replace words in reaching straight to the heart. Nothing duplicitous, no affectation… simply a daily commitment to the instruments of his trade, conducting his kitchen orchestra in a score of virtuoso savoir-faire.

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PHOTO Â©JACQUES GAVARD

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PIERRE GAGNAIRE

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LAS VEGAS PHOTO Â©JACQUES GAVARD

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The cuisine of Pierre Gagnaire is art. It is love. It is technique. A book by Pierre Gagnaire is entitled La cuisine c’est de l’amour, de l’art, de la technique in French. His menu, as fleeting as the seasons, blends these principles in an adventurous panorama, while remaining firmly rooted in the truth of the land and the rigor of traditional techniques. It embodies an assumed duality of land and sea. It expresses contrasting flavours, textures and temperatures, their seeming complexity transforming into the inescapably obvious. Culinary free verse wafting on the winds of an inquisitive mind. The echo of a lifelong craft, talentedly mastered, passionately practiced.

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PIERRE GAGNAIRE

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ST JACQUES -PAPRIKA PARMEZAN FRAIS PHOTO Â©JACQUES GAVARD

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CUISINE AND RESILIENCE Instinct, spontaneity, risk… Pierre Gagnaire’s approach irresistibly arouses a feeling of urgency, nearly one of survival. As though, for this man, cuisine became a raison d’être in and of itself. Having survived the sinking of the Surcouf during his military service, having lived through a brush with bankruptcy in Saint-Etienne, it was, paradoxically, the profession of chef that proved to be a struggle. A prisoner of family tradition, he broke free by creating the depression of imposed duty. Freedom having won out over tradition, the penny finally dropped thanks to a review by Jean-Francois Abert in 1978 on the now-legendary Pochette de Saint-Pierre aux poivrons doux recipe, he was convinced that he could express his sensitivity in his dishes. Cooking became his language, a syntax able to capture and convey his emotions.

His recipes express memories, exalt perception, seize the moment. Between lingering feeling and lightning flashes, it is in the compulsion to produce, to respond to immediate necessity, that his cuisine immédiate, cuisine of the now, was born, a name that became the title of a now unfindable collection of recipes published in 1988. “I was able to develop a degree of artistic finesse and experience emotions that were forever being honed by tension, risk and doubt,” he shared with Catherine Flohic in Un principe d’émotions published by Argol in 2011. There he also said, “I have a kind of latent sensitivity within me that’s always at the ready that has been with me, I think, since my earliest days in cooking. My story is the continuation and affirmation of my initial impetus, an inner need that could even be called obsessive, it cannot be otherwise... I move forward in small impulses, slight intuitions, which are only the logical continuation of what I built the previous day.” “I must somehow be in a state of excitement, tension, with only a brief moment left before me, and then I can, if not gain ground, at least not lose ground.” WG September 2016 -

PIERRE GAGNAIRE

WG Magazine Publisher catches up with Pierre Gagnaire… It’s interesting to learn how Chef’s find their passion for cooking and where they grew up. Pierre Gagnaire tells us how he found his way into the culinary field to become one of the most soughtafter Chef in the world… My culinary story has not been a straight-forward track. My parents ran a restaurant and I could see what such a business meant. So I did not really want to be a cooking chef but as I was not very good at school, my father chose for me and that is how it started, being an apprentice in Lyons. I was 16, the restaurant’s name was “Chez Juliette” and when I think about this experience, this starting-point, I eventually realize that it built my way of cooking: I did not learn how to cook a veal stock, fond blanc, all these basic preparations. Even though I had no passion for cooking, there was a hint of happiness in all this. These technical weaknesses, I have had them since the beginning of my career, that is also the reason why I had to develop a different strategy, a kind of do-it-yourself that allows me to cook and exist differently. One milestone, however, made me realize what cuisine could be: it was a review I had in a local magazine, by the famous French critic Jean-François Abert, about a recipe Pochette de Saint Pierre aux poivrons doux. Through this text, the words he used, it suddenly came up to my mind that cooking could create an emotion and could be a language to communicate with people. This is the emotion principle.

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“Cuisine does not measure itself in terms of tradition or modernity. One must read in it the tenderness of the chef.” Pierre Gagnaire

Chef Gagnaire takes us back when he was 15 and doing a summer training at Paul Bocuse’s restaurant and then later on he discovered the world of creative cuisine with Alain Sendernes - Chef Gagnaire shares his experience with Paul Bocuse... I spent 2 extraordinary months at Mr. Bocuse’s restaurant in 1965, when his cuisine was awarded with 3 Michelin stars. Mr. Bocuse had instinctively understood that press and medias would be the loudhailers of his talent and personality. The excitement in the kitchen and in this maison were easily perceived at every moment. I immediately felt the incredible charisma of this man. Obviously my cuisine is completely different but I can say unblushingly - that I love this man. I never worked at Alain Senderens’s restaurant but I had a surprising meal here which conveyed the spirit of nouvelle cuisine: sharp and unexpected tastes, small portions...

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PHOTO Â©JACQUES GAVARD

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PIERRE GAGNAIRE

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CANNELONNIDE SEICHE PHOTO Â©MARCO STRULLU

WG MAGAZINE

For me, cuisine is alive and my role is to an ingredient ever greater presence, more soul, whether or not it is new, whether or not it is well-known to me or I have just discovered it. I transform it, bring out its beauty, while respecting its true nature, these nuances are inexpressible in words; they can only be tasted. Pierre Gagnaire

2001 was the beginning of a strong partnership between a prestigious chef and a daring chemist with Hervé This “father of molecular gastronomy” – Old wives tales, knowledge and gourmandise - a creative game in which Hervé’s monthly innovation which is transformed into culinary art by Pierre Gagnaire. “Science and Cuisine” served for the first time at the French Academy of sciences Chef Gagnaire tell us about this Culinary Art and Scientific Knowledge…

FEUILLES DE L’ABBÉ NOLLET PHOTO ©JACQUES GAVARD

Chef Gagnaire’s cuisine is an absolute purity, an experience that reflects and transcribes your emotions - poetry in your plates. A cuisine very creative with the finest produce, creating a composition of flavours – complex yet impeccably. He tells us how he brings this balance on a plate… This is such a difficult question… First, when I started as a chef, I could not taste my dishes. I was scared of being disappointed and I paid a lot of attention to the visual aspect. My first book is entitled “La cuisine immédiate” (The immediate cuisine). It is very instinctive.

In Saint-Etienne, there were unfortunately not Hervé This is a brilliant, clever, cultured and outstanding products of high quality. That might be humble man. He is only interested in knowledge. another reason I had to develop my own strategy: His integrity sometimes (and often should I say) this product is not super good? Well, I am going allows him to exaggerate what he says. He is to do my best with it to make it much better cutting provocative, thought-provocative, he opened my it like that, pairing it with this or that, cooking it in eyes onto a new way of thinking of tastes. Through that way, adding a few drops of this, and so on. our collaboration, we put online some recipes This is a very complicated process in my mind but that many people can enjoy. Our relationship is I can say that I always keep in mind being honest not about business, it is just about the pleasure of and giving as much pleasure as possible trough my dishes. sharing our knowledges. WG September 2016 -

PIERRE GAGNAIRE

Pierre Gagnaire’s eponymous restaurant at 6 rue Balzac in Paris specializes in modern French cuisine, an iconoclastic chef guided by instinct, at the forefront of the fusion cuisine movement, introducing jarring juxtapositions of flavors, tastes, textures, and ingredients. Chef Gagnaire describes his culinary philosophy…

ARAIGNÉEET POUTARGUE PHOTO ©MARCO STRULLU

As a chef, with 3 Michelin stars, I do not forget that I work with a whole team and I do run a business based on customers. I have to create the best possible conditions to make the customers very happy. Clients come here at the restaurant with very different expectations and I and my whole team have to satisfy this wide range of expectations. It is not easy but if everything is done with sincerity, attention, honesty, tenderness and pleasure, from cooking to service, I am pretty sure that we will have reached half the way. Hopefully! And our job is to create some happy remembering’s.

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WG MAGAZINE

CARPACCIO DE DAURADE ROYALE PHOTO ©JACQUES GAVARD

POELÉE DE LOTTE CURCUMIN TANDOORI PHOTO ©JACQUES GAVARD

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PIERRE GAGNAIRE

Chef Gagnaire shares his greatest influences in the kitchen… The desire to enjoy cooking, to surprise myself, to give meaning to my life; the final result is to create an emotion which is tangible in the hollow of the plate. I do not have any peculiar influences, I stay concentrated as much as possible on my job (and I am not a Chef, I prefer to say I am a cook), listening in my sensations and my feelings about the products that are here around me. The core of our adventure is sharing with our teams. Guilty food pleasure… “A glass of white wine with oysters and a piece of Comté cheese.”

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GRANITÉ CAROTTE PAMPLEMOUSSE PHOTO ©MARCO STRULLU

WG MAGAZINE

Chef Gagnaire tells us about his ingredient obsession which inspires him… None ingredient or product inspires me more than the other. I am driven only by curiosity and the pleasure to make people happy with what I and my team cook for them. I have no ingredient obsession. Oh, I do have one: water! It is more and more rare and it is a vital question. Special cooking equipment… “I enjoy cooking equipment that is very helpful to cook quickly: wok, grill, and mixer.” WG September 2016 -

PIERRE GAGNAIRE

Discovering Jazz music has also been a shock for me. Jazz is a world music and is like cusine in its multiform appearance reflecting the rhythms of life itself. There is music in the tempo of a meal: its downstrokes and its upstrokes, its syncopated rythmns and its breaks, the hot, the cold and the sound of a broth being poured. It is this rhythm which has found its own way into my cuisine. Pierre Gagnaire

“Five Seasons Kitchen” is a beautiful book about Pierre Gagnaire’s recipes from his culinary repertoire, which made him famous, his work as a chef and he makes his dishes accessible to home cooks. Why Five Seasons? – Chef Gagnaire shares his inspiration about his book…

INSOLITE CHAUD FROID DE COEUR DE CABILLAUD DEMI-DEUIL; NAVET BUREN PHOTO ©JACQUES GAVARD

Produce, Creativity or Technique… “Cooking is a question of love, art and technique. This is the title of our book - Hervé This and I wrote it together -, in French, “La cuisine c’est de l’amour, de l’art, de la technique”, an English version has been published. Everything is in this book, I cannot tell more!”

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Friends and family have asked me for years to make a book with easy-to-cook recipes! They eventually succeeded. I was not ready for this but 2 years ago, I realized that I could do it. The idea of this book is to be simple. Simplicity of the products and simplicity of the techniques. I have to thank my very faithful 2nd Chef Michel Nave who was my co-worker for the technical cooking methods for every of the 90 recipes. These recipes are not difficult but express very much my creativity, especially for some out-ofthe-beaten-path associations. 5 seasons, why? The fifth season is about this particular time between winter and real spring. There are different clues showing that this is the end of cold times, but the nature has not so much to offer though… The challenge is to express the idea of a renewal with very few vegetables. Through this book, I just wanted to give a few ideas for a tender, tasty, light and not expensive cuisine.

WG MAGAZINE

JARDIN MARIN PHOTO ©MARCO STRULLU

ASPERGES BLANCHES PHOTO ©MARCO STRULLU

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PIERRE GAGNAIRE

GELÉE DE POIVRONS AU SAFRAN PHOTO ©JACQUES GAVARD

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CRISTAL DE VENT PHOTO ©JACQUES GAVARD

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CRISTAUX DE VENT PHOTO ©JACQUES GAVARD

Pierre Gagnaire is the world’s most influential and Best Chef in the World chef, successful restaurateur with 11 restaurants worldwide and 13 Michelin stars, receiving numerous awards and accolades and 2016 marks 50 dazzlingly creative and successful years in the kitchen - Pierre Gagnaire tells us what motivates him….

Even if it is not always easy, I meet with wonderful and passionate people in Paris and everywhere I travel; quality drives obviously to quality.

Being a chef is perceived as a glamorous profession, Chef Gagnaire gives his take on chefs who are first entering the field today… “Take your time. The I am very lucky, I feel good, with good health, I challenge today for young chefs is to last. If you am surrounded by my loving-ones and friends. wants to do this job seriously and last, you have to For 30 years, I wondered how I would pay my stay concentrated, mute and rigorous in every of suppliers, even if I quickly had esteem success, with your everyday choices. It’s definitely very enjoyable good reviews in press, but it took years to impose this recognition/acknowledgment but I am not sure (and it is not about doing it with strength but it was that you can deal with it, in a good way, when you much more about carrying my point on people) my are only 25-30.” cooking style and my personality, with my qualities and my failings. WG September 2016 -

PIERRE GAGNAIRE

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LA BÊTE PHOTO ©JACQUES GAVARD

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THE INGREDIENT The way that the ingredients are employed reveals the tension and risk-taking that is so integral to his work. Gathered at the peak of freshness and of the finest quality, these raw materials are at once letters in his alphabet and notes in his scale. A scale that continues to expand, thanks to the new openness of the world’s vast garden. “Here, I have at my disposal an infinite gustatory palette of exceptional quality, which unquestionably gives my cuisine greater flow and gentleness.” For this man, “the discovery lies in the right combination; I have a certain flair,” he says, “the ability to layer the elements of a dish instead of simply juxtaposing them, as most cooks do. Even if the ingredients are clearly, singularly identifiable, my construction turns them into a unique ensemble that creates entirely unexpected tastes.” There is no hierarchy in this architecture: for Pierre Gagnaire, a vegetable is not merely a side dish – it becomes an integral part of the recipe and his cooking, to the point that vegetables have as much importance in the dish as the meat or fish. Each one plays an important part, illuminated by small, bright beams of herbs and spices, available to him in ever-growing variety, each finding its place in his mental library of flavours. This gustatory memory enriches and nurtures his lively creativity, having too much momentum to become cemented in a menu of signature dishes. Such inventions do not exist for Pierre Gagnaire, who, in their absence, leaves his own veritable autograph. WG September 2016 -

PIERRE GAGNAIRE

CULINARY COUNTERPARTS: LITERATURE, MUSIC, PAINTING Pierre Gagnaire’s restaurants contain modern and contemporary artworks, photographs and selected objets d’art. Among them is Prends le temps (Take some time), the remarkable sculpture by visual artist Fabien Chalon that embodies, to a degree, the experience of a meal at Pierre Gagnaire. There is also an Aston Villa song putting one of his menus to music, a nominative dedication in the afterword of Muriel Barbery’s first book, Une gourmandise. And even a dish paying tribute to Buren and another named after a novel by Japanese author Natsume Soseki: Oreiller d’herbes (The Grass Pillow). Curiosity and the humanities are part and parcel of the life of Pierre Gagnaire. Do they stimulate inspiration within him? There is no doubt whatsoever about that.

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Clearly, he was able to extract a recipe from a specific travel memory or the fragrance of Terre d’Hermès cologne composed by fragrancecreator Jean-Claude Ellena. Undoubtedly, the construction of his dishes weaves complementarities with the visual arts. Yes, he cooks the way one might play and compose music. And much like the way science might further illuminate phenomena he uses as a chef every day. Yet Pierre Gagnaire is neither writer nor chemist nor musician nor painter nor poet. He is a chef, one of the few who have helped cuisine be considered one of the arts. Digging through Pierre Gagnaire’s cultural references will not necessarily help determine if they inspire him, but will, instead, reveal his taste for frugality, accuracy, astonishment and newness. They disclose a gentle, elegant landscape that he shares – unhesitatingly, limitlessly – with his customers

BISCUIT AU CASSIS ET BOURRACHE PHOTO ©JACQUES GAVARD

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PIERRE GAGNAIRE

RESTAURANT PIERRE GAGNAIRE PHOTO ©THOMAS DUVAL

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RESTAURANT PIERRE GAGNAIRE PHOTO ©THOMAS DUVAL

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THE ATLAS OF PIERRE GAGNAIRE

PHOTO ©JACQUES GAVARD

Pierre Gagnaire is not only the chef of a restaurant: he also oversees 11 other restaurants and 13 Michelin stars. His approach is – unhurriedly – being disseminated around the world, while he whets his own style of skills transfer. Passing on his quest for emotion in the cuisine he shares with his customers. Passing on the savoir-faire he teaches his teams. Just as he has learned to taste it, he also learned to verbalize it, the way to achieve fruitful dialogue with his staff. As he is in his Paris kitchen, so he is in all his kitchens, connected with those interpreting him, chefs who all have worked by his side on rue Balzac. Every one of his establishments is a call to more broadly share his inimitable sensitivity. WG September 2016 -

YANNICK ALLÉNO

YANNICK ALLÉNO EXTRACTIONS® A REAFFIRMATION OF TASTE Text YAM / JÉRÔME BERGER WG Magazine Food Images - Photo ©Philippe Vaurès

Yannick Alléno advocates a French cuisine that draws its strength from its heritage but is also ambitious in its creativity. He has developed a visionary approach to the culinary arts in which know-how and excellence are combined with audacity that pushes boundaries to better experience new flavors and exalt tastes. He is Chef at the Pavillon Ledoyen, the iconic 3 star Michelin restaurant in the heart of Paris, on the Champs-Elysées and at Cheval Blanc in Courchevel, and goes beyond borders on his endless quest for the quintessential in all things. Passionate about French cuisine, Yannick Alléno has pioneered new research on modern sauces and introduces this new technique into each dish. Creativity, passion and pursuit of culinary excellence… Offering an exceptional dining experience, guests are invited to choose one key ingredient – vegetable, meat or fish - for their main dish. Guided by this choice, Chef Alléno then constructs the entire meal around the core dish, including the starter and dessert. For example, the poularde topped with seeds poached with Jura wine stock and panais extract will be best served with the duck foie gras poached with Rivesaltes wine and pear in a sugar crust as a starter, or the crab meat in squid leaf to end the orange bead cinnamon foam for dessert. Chef Alléno also inspires and directs the kitchens of the Royal Mansour in Marrakech, and promotes French art de vivre in Dubai, Taipei and soon in Seoul. He also produces YAM, a cooking bimonthly publication for culinary professionals.

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PHOTO Â©GEOFFROY DE BOISMENU

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YANNICK ALLÉNO

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FINE GELÉE D’UN JAMBON IBÉRIQUE MOUSSE FERMENTÉE DE PAIN DE SEIGLE AUX ÉCLATS D’OLIVES KALAMATA MD

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THE MAIN PURPOSE OF EXTRACTIONS, SOME OF WHICH HAVE BEEN PATENTED, IS TO BROADEN THE RANGE OF POSSIBILITIES. THANKS TO THEM, I THINK THE CUISINE I’M PRODUCING NOW HAS A MUCH STRONGER IDENTITY

The triple-starred chef from Alléno Paris au Pavillon Ledoyen reviews three years of reflecting on and experimenting with sauces, driven solely by a reaffirmation of taste and the pleasures that come with it. What’s your relationship with sauces? For a long time, my apprenticeship determined my relationship with sauces. In that area like every other, I was careful to stay in line with the six Meilleurs Ouvriers de France who trained me. They all took an approach to French cooking and its heritage that was extremely respectful. So in turn, year after year, I did everything I could to respect the education I had received to the letter. When it came to sauces, for example, that meant understanding that the onion colored the gravy and not the meat, that tomato was used to clarify, that celery added minerality that carrot helped to thicken… Looking back, I was perfecting the art of sauce making, its balance…: not flambéing an American sauce so it wouldn’t turn bitter; whisking up a sauce with butter and no cream to glaze an oyster… That kind of learning takes time. You don’t become a sauce maker in one day. First you have to prove yourself as a roaster.

LANGOUSTINE CUITE AU NATUREL, EXTRACTION TOMATE, FRAISE ET PERSIL, ALBUMINE DES PINCES ET GUIMAUVES À L’AMANDE AMÈRE MD

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YANNICK ALLÉNO

How did your perception of sauces change once emancipated from your mentors, when you started implementing your own cooking style? Do you develop your “own” cooking when, like me, you come from a long line of professionals of that caliber? You certainly add your own sensitivity, but does that mean it’s your own cooking style? I doubt that… However, I did become less and less interested in sauces. In the early 1990s, my relationship with them was increasingly limited. As Claude Lebey used to say, they often boiled down to simple gravies with a dash of olive oil to liven up a dish, through a concern for lightness. He was the very man who, down the line, would introduce me to Japanese-style cooking. By then, I had a preference for dashi… Until the age of around 40, at which point I felt as though I had finally become a chef. I now mastered the flame to a satisfactory degree. I also felt that I was a good taster, since I could understand a dish correctly. Those capacities for analysis gradually revealed what I was lacking. I became increasingly convinced of the usefulness of working more with sauces, which alone constitute 80% of the value of a dish. Take a sole served with mussels: how tasteless would it be without a cream sauce!

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AVOCAT RESTÉ SUR L’ARBRE 18MOIS EN MILLEFEUILLE DE CÉLERI, EXTRACTION COCO AUX ÉCLATS DE CHIA 2

Initially, how did you respond to those missing elements, notably in relation to sauces? Aestheticism and rigour in cooking served as my guides for a long time. In reality, I had been moving away from a sincere form of cooking, until the day when, just before closing time at the Meurice, the contents of the bottom of a terrine spoke to me. I tasted the juice extracted after cooking and was captivated by its power, its minerality. That’s where you find the sincerity of a product, its truth, in all its complexity! From that point on, I was on a quest for that absolute taste…

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COQUE DE PAMPLEMOUSSE BRÛLÉ, SOUPE D’OURSIN SERVIE CHAUDE, PEAU DE CANARD CROQUANTE AU FOIE GRAS DE CANARD EN AMERTUME, GRANITÉ IODÉ

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YANNICK ALLÉNO

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EFFEUILLÉ DE CABILLAUD VRAI VIROFLAY MD

WG MAGAZINE

THESE DAYS, PLEASURE RULES. GIVEN THAT SAUCE IS A STRONG MARKER OF PLEASURE, AND WHAT’S MORE IT’S TYPICALLY FRENCH, WANTING TO RECONQUER THAT TASTE TERRITORY MAKES SENSE... SOUPE FRENEUSE MODERNE NOIX DE COQUILLE SAINTJACQUES À LA VAPEUR FLORALE MD

How did you begin your reflection on sauces?

beef, for example. Moreover, compared to that jelly taste engraved in my memory, the gravy we had With the help of Bruno Goussault, the scientific produced wasn’t concentrated enough. We needed director at the CREA, I started by showing the need the right cooking, yet reducing it by increasing the for the right cooking. The juice from that terrine, temperature for hours on end was unthinkable. I thought, had reached that level of perfection So Bruno Goussault suggested we take inspiration because the preparation it was extracted from had from a process used in the dairy industry: reduction been cooked for the necessary amount of time, to through cold, or cryoconcentration. the nearest second, at a precise temperature. Next came 500 trials with mono-extractions and That led to an approach to sauces that differed cryoconcentrations to determine which exact process from what I’d been taught. I wanted to move away to set up for each product used in making sauces. from long boiling times and high-temperature We went from one revelation to another. I remember reductions… Bruno Goussault and I initially focused in particular our first successful extraction of celery. on vacuum cooking – which in its very essence is It had a mineral taste, absolute and crystalline… gentle and controlled – a gravy preparation. In Incredible. Same thing for a sole extraction that other words, ground meat, marinated, with an brought out the flavours of the “whey” from the aromatic garnish. The result was interesting, but not fish, that indicator of perfect cooking that we had satisfactory enough. To improve on it, I decided to got into the habit of throwing away because we cook each of the ingredients in the gravy separately, viewed it as too unseemly for traditional cooking. as accurately as possible. After all, the texture of a Once we stopped those mono-extractions, a phase carrot is nothing like a sprig of celery, or a piece of of “correct assembly” began to take shape… WG September 2016 -

YANNICK ALLÉNO

“Modernity does not exclude the past, it transcends it” Yannick Alléno

How did you come up with this idea of correctly assembling the elements of a sauce, extracted separately? Winegrowing know-how has contributed greatly to my interpretation of sauces. Particularly when it comes to the way I assemble them, rosés for example from Moët & Chandon, and great cognacs from Hennessy also. On one visit to the Hennessy warehouses, I was able to take stock of the similarities between our two worlds because, as is the case in cooking, distillation requires a perfect mastery of the flame. I became aware of the exceptional regularity of the products these companies make. “Our work is to put together brandies with different types of origin, evaporation, ageing…, in order to guarantee a consistent taste.” In a few words, Yann Fillioux, master assembler at Hennessy, confirmed the full value of assembly. What are your sources of inspiration when you’re assembling? Do you use classic sauce recipes as a basis? I tend to view my assemblies as creations in their own right. Just recently, I remember making an extraction of fresh dates to serve with fermented turnips. I can’t see a reference to any particular existing sauce there. The main goal of extractions, which have been the subject of patents, is to broaden the range of possibilities, enrich our repertoire without completely erasing the past and, in doing so, to personalize our dishes even more. Thanks to them, I think these days the cooking I’m doing is much more specifically mine.

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FILET DE ROUGET À LA « ROYALE » BOUDINS À LA CHAIR ET ENCRE DE SEICHE CROUSTILLANTS MD

Are extractions prompting the birth of a modern cuisine? It would be very presumptuous of me to say that. However, I think that extractions do testify to a degree of modernity, on more than one level. First of all, they provide a choice response to the undermining of our culinary know-how, resulting from a lack of time to disseminate it. With apprenticeship periods now cut by half, teaching processes such as extractions is proving to be particularly effective. It enables young chefs to concentrate more on their assembly techniques, and therefore their creativity, rather than on understanding sauces. Secondly, extractions don’t suffer from the addition of salt. They are naturally rich in minerals. Thirdly, they are wholesome since they are assembled immediately. No butter or flour is required, unlike a roux. Fourthly, through their very nature, they can easily be passed on, and thus endure.

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TOUT BLANC DE TURBOT, GELÉE CHAUDE DE FLEUR D’ORANGER, PURÉE DE CÉLERI ET OIGNONS DOUX APRÈS MD

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YANNICK ALLÉNO

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CANETON AU MALT CHOU POINTU AUX BAIES DE GENIÈVRE ET RACINE DE FOUGÈRES (2ÈME SERVICE)

WG MAGAZINE

THESE DAYS, PLEASURE RULES. GIVEN THAT SAUCE IS A STRONG MARKER OF PLEASURE, AND WHAT’S MORE IT’S TYPICALLY FRENCH, WANTING TO RECONQUER THAT TASTE TERRITORY MAKES SENSE...

What does this evolution of sauces tell us about our society? The way I see it, the history of sauces is very symptomatic of the way French society has evolved. Their rise dates back mainly to the 17th and 18th centuries, two eras that were extraordinarily rich, in every sense of the term. In the early 1970s, Nouvelle Cuisine slowed things down, with its concern for healthy eating, shared at the time by a French population that was by then very largely urban. The consequence of this loss of interest in sauces was soon felt: by losing its sauces, France had lost its culinary identity. These days, it’s all about pleasure. Since sauce is a strong indicator of pleasure, and what’s more it’s typically French, the desire to reconquer the taste territory makes sense. As I see it, much more so than aestheticizing forms of cooking like the ones you can often see on Instagram. I never stop telling my staff: “You remember your first roast veal cooked by your mother more than the shoes she was wearing that day”. One of many signs it seems to me that our memory is more geared to taste than to aesthetics. Do you think you’re alone in being interested in the future of sauces? No. Every day, clients come to appreciate the work we’ve done and they go off and tell their friends. I feel followed! BŒUF WAGYU « GRADE 4 » EN AIGUILLETTES « ONIGIRI » IODÉ, LANGUES D’OURSIN ET ANGUILLE FUMÉE GLACÉE, CELERI RAVE MD

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YANNICK ALLÉNO

Yannick Alléno has pioneered new research on modern sauces and introduces this new technique... WG Magazine Publisher catches up with Yannick Alléno... It’s interesting to learn how chefs find their passion for cooking and where they grew up. Yannick Alléno tells us how he found his way into the culinary field to become the most sought-after Chef in the world… As far as I can remember I have always wanted to be a chef. Food is a family tradition; my parents used to manage small bistros in the Parisian suburbs and they clearly passed on their passion to me. My grandmother was also a great inspiration; she taught me so much about the quality of the products and the importance of healthy food. All together they also taught me to work hard to get what I want and that you cannot accomplish a thing without rigour. I started my training at the age of 15, learning from the very bests: Manuel Martinez, Jacky Fréon, Gabriel Biscay, Roland Durand, Martial Henguehard and Louis Grondard, the six MOFs (Meilleurs Ouvriers de France). Consequently, classic French cuisine, excellence and rigor have obviously ruled the first 25 years of my career. In 2013, I have gathered all the knowledge I had learnt in a book called Ma Cuisine Française (available in English) and since then I feel I have shut the door to that well-known cuisine to start a more modern one. One based on audacity, creation and research... I want to push boundaries to better experience new flavours and exalt tastes. I want new. I want better. I want a modern cuisine that fits our contemporary needs and desires. And that’s how we created the revolutionary technique of Extraction®…

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PHOTO Â©GEOFFROY DE BOISMENU

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YANNICK ALLÉNO

Creation of the revolutionary technique of Extraction®… Inventing dishes from traditional cuisine by giving a unique interpretation with precision. A cuisine very creative with the finest produce and creating this composition of flavours – complex and modest yet with impeccable balance with a strong identity – how do you bring about this balance on a plat? From now on, I want to break the rules of French cuisine and take a stand for liberty and culinary creativity. Our purpose today is to concentrate and offer a more modern cuisine that on one hand takes all the benefits from the heritage left by our predecessors for centuries and on the other adapts itself to the current needs and desires, using the most contemporary technological evolutions.

Passionate and a culinary perfectionist, your culinary creations are a combination of being innovative, taste and a play with ingredients. Where does this inspiration comes from? Music, sounds, colours, smells, travels, people… pretty much everything inspires me in fact! I am curious and just love to create new dishes. Playing with the ingredients is fun; to try new things, incorporate new flavours, taste, transform, shape the product and come up with new recipes is what livens me up… Creation is a free and light process to me.

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Sauce is what brings the balance in a dish, what links all the ingredients together to form a consistent and impressive whole. Modern sauces through Extractions® as you may have understood are what bring length – also called “caudalie” – and natural salinity our dishes. And from our latest reflection around fermented products and the meaning of terroirs, we are now able to add energy to that already true and long lasting taste to obtain a truly extra ordinary result. Those reflections on French Gastronomy and its different pillars – sauces, fermentation, etc. – are stimulating and enriching, for they are based on research & development, and we really want to pursue with this line of work. We still have so many topics to explore!

YANNICK ALLÉNO MARIE-CLAIRE FRÉDÉRIC

REFLECTIONS OF A CHEF

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WG MAGAZINE ageing agriculture alcohol anaerobic ancestral antiquity aroma aromatic bacteria beer biology butter caudalie caviar cheese cider civilisation climate culture diversity earth effervescence environment ferment fermentation fire flavour geography geology indigenous taste lactic leaven leaven life living local marinade meat hanging microbe mould origins patience brine ripening salt salting sauerkraut seasoning soil sour summer taste terroir time universal variety wavelenght wine yeast ageing agriculture alcohol MARIE-CLAIRE anaerobic ancestral antiquity aroma aromatic bacteria FRÉDÉRIC beer biology butter caudalie caviar cheese cider civilisation climate culture diversity earth effervescence environment ferment fermentation fire flavour geography geology indigenous taste lactic leaven leaven life living local marinade meat hanging microbe mould origins patience brine ripening salt salting sauerkraut seasoning soil sour summer taste terroir time universal variety wavelenght wine yeast ageing agriculture alcohol anaerobic ancestral antiquity aroma aromatic bacteria beer biology butter caudalie caviar cheese cider civilisation climate culture diversity earth effervescence environment ferment fermentation fire flavour geography geology indigenous taste lactic leaven leaven life living local marinade meat hanging microbe mould origins patience brine ripening salt salting sauerkraut seasoning soil sour summer taste terroir time universal variety wavelenght wine yeast ageing agriculture alcohol anaerobic ancestral antiquity aroma aromatic bacteria beer biology butter caudalie caviar cheese cider civilisation climate culture diversity earth effervescence environment ferment fermentation fire flavour geography geology indigenous taste lactic leaven leaven life living local marinade meat hanging microbe mould origins patience brine ripening salt salting sauerkraut seasoning soil sour summer taste terroir time universal variety wavelenght wine yeast ageing agriculture alcohol anaerobic ancestral antiquity aroma aromatic bacteria beer biology butter caudalie caviar cheese cider civilisation climate culture diversity earth effervescence environment ferment fermentation fire flavour geography geology indigenous taste lactic leaven leaven life living local marinade meat hanging microbe mould origins patience brine ripening salt salting sauerkraut seasoning soil sour summer taste terroir time universal variety wavelenght wine yeast ageing agriculture alcohol anaerobic ancestral antiquity aroma aromatic bacteria beer biology butter caudalie caviar cheese cider civilisation climate culture diversity earth effervescence environment ferment fermentation fire flavour geography geology indigenous taste lactic leaven leaven life living local marinade meat hanging microbe mould origins patience brine ripening Chef Yannick Alléno salt salting sauerkraut seasoning soil sour summer taste terroir time universal variety wavelenght wine yeast ageing agriculture alcohol anaerobic ancestral antiquity aroma aromatic bacteria beer biology butter caudalie caviar cheese cider civilisation climate culture diversity earth effervescence environment ferment fermentation fire flavour geography geology indigenous taste lactic leaven leaven life living local marinade meat hanging microbe mould origins patience brine ripening salt salting sauerkraut seasoning soil sour summer taste terroir time universal variety wavelenght wine yeast ageing agriculture alcohol anaerobic ancestral antiquity aroma aromatic bacteria beer biology butter caudalie caviar cheese cider civilisation climate culture diversity earth effervescence environment ferment fermentation fire flavour geography geology indigenous taste lactic leaven leaven life living local marinade meat hanging microbeAs I needed guidance from an expert on fermentation, mould origins patience brine ripening salt salting sauerkraut seasoning soil sour summer taste terroir time universal variety wavelenght wine yeast ageing agriculture alcohol anaerobic ancestral antiquity aromaI have reached out to Marie-Claire Frederic and aromatic bacteria beer biology butter caudalie caviar cheese cider civilisation climate culture diversitytogether we have started many experimentations to earth effervescence environment ferment fermentation fire flavour geography geology indigenous tasteultimately analyse the impact of fire, and precisely lactic leaven leaven life living local marinade meat hanging microbe mould origins patience brine ripening salt salting sauerkraut seasoning soil sour summer taste terroir time universal variety wavelenght wineof cooking at the right temperature, on fermented 15:08 salt salting sauerkraut seasoning soil sour summer taste terroir time universal variety27/05/2016 wavelenght wineproducts.

YANNICK ALLÉNO

REFLECTIONS OF

A CHE F

Can you tell us a bit more about that latest reflection about terroirs and fermentation? Well, few years ago, in 2014, my friend Michel Chapoutier told me « only fermented products bring out the value of their terroir of origin ». Obviously I kept that in my mind until I finally started to properly work on it and understand that a terroir could be much more than just a geographical localization. Two statements quickly stroke me: first, fermented products are everywhere in cuisine even if they are quite never identified as such (chocolate, wine, coffee, tea, cheese, ketchup, bread, etc.); second, fermentation is often limited to its prehistoric function of preserving food.

“Sauces are the expression of an evolved cuisine”

From that point I had a major discovery, really understanding the impact of a soil on a product’s taste as a true and very distinctive signature. Based on our previous work on sauces, our suggestion was therefore to associate fermentation, that provides a product with a new energy and what we can call “Wavelenth” with our revolutionary technique of Extraction® which reveals the true tastes, to obtain – as with wines – an extraordinarily powerful flavour, unique and specific to the particular soil. To be simpler, now we can state with proof that a same seed of Monarch celeriac does not have the same taste when grown in the Parisian region or in Normandy. That is just amazing… WG September 2016 -

DAVIDE SCABIN

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PHOTO Â©COMBAL ZERO

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DAVIDE SCABIN UP&DOWN An award winning chef, visionary, scientist and artist, Davide Scabin is possibly one of the most dynamic chefs of today’s generation. Born in Rivoli, Italy in 1965, Davide Scabin always dreamed of becoming a chef. Influenced not only by his grandfather, a passionate home cook, but also by his own obsession for science at school, Scabin unsurprisingly headed straight to catering college. It was here he learned of and developed a huge admiration for the European chefs from the 1600’s and 1700’s. Setting out to emulate these chefs and translate them with his own modern technique, Scabin began to develop his own culinary skills. Even at this early age, the ambitious young chef knew he wanted to be at the fore of his own kitchen and have the freedom to experiment fully with technique and create dishes that merged his craft with the science he loved. Ever the pragmatist, however, Davide knew he had to acquire as much the experience of managing a kitchen as a business as he did honing his culinary skills and mastering his craft. The following decade saw him working from Turin to Sardinia with some of the most acclaimed local restaurants of the day, including ‘l Galantom and Hotel Capriccioli. When he was 28 years old, an opportunity arose in his home region of Piedmont and he was able to open his first restaurant, Combal, in the town of Almese. Combal was a trattoria with a prix fixe menu, but Scabin offered a more experimental ‘hidden’ menu to his regular guests. The prix fixe menu drove the business while the hidden menu drove his creative development. Seven years later, both Davide’s reputation and the ‘hidden’ menu caught the eye of Michelin and they awarded Combal its first Michelin star in the 2000 guide. WG September 2016 -

DAVIDE SCABIN

In 2002, back in Scabin’s hometown of Rivoli, the Museum of Contemporary Art relocated to the beautiful Castello di Rivoli and was looking for a sympathetic chef. Castello di Rivoli was the dream location of Scabin’s youth and he jumped at the opportunity. Combal transferred to the Museum of Contemporary Art and was renamed Combal.Zero. It is here that Scabin found a natural home, one where his relentless creativity could find its way into every aspect of design of Combal.Zero’s minimalist interiors, including its bespoke cutlery and crockery. To the delight of museum visitors and diners alike, the restaurant’s beautiful floor-to-ceiling glass walls seamlessly anchor the restaurant to the museum’s Baroque architecture yet create a distinct visual separation, juxtaposing the static art in the galleries with the perceived dynamic art of a restaurant in full service.

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CHECK SALAD PHOTO ©COMBAL ZERO

Combal.Zero also affords Davide the space and resources to further develop his experimental menus based on his passionate research into food science, allowing him to use more complex techniques to create his already cutting-edge food. A true food researcher, the chef states, “I don’t like the term molecular gastronomy. It has been used in the wrong way. Molecular can be taking a pan with butter and frying an egg in it.” Through his restaurant Combal.Zero, Chef Davide Scabin sets a new standard in fine dining, elevating traditional Italian flavour combinations by adding his unique creativity and a signature concept in presentation and design. This artistic and innovative chef exhibits his meticulous approach to scientific research and development in his food that belies his absolute passion for his regional cuisine and a true mastery of his craft. His dishes are bold in concept and presentation but are balanced by elegance both in execution and flavour that has gained the restaurant two Michelin stars. WG September 2016 -

DAVIDE SCABIN

Michelin awarded Combal.Zero two stars in 2007 and is repeatedly ranked in the San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Ever creative and often eccentric, he has produced a truly unprecedented dining experience with menus designed to bring out the inner-child, utilising bespoke cutlery and crockery in an environment acclaimed for hosting a food-lover’s playground. Scabin’s intense culinary research and development was the catalyst in his recruitment by The European Space Agency. In 2012 he was given a yearlong assignment to produce a range of space food for astronauts and was asked to provide in theory five nutritious dishes that were organic, had a long shelf life and were salt-free. In reality, the chef, working closely with Argotec, was able to produce thirty different dishes, giving the ESA enough food choices to provide sustenance to astronauts in space for years to come.

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ZUPPIZZA PHOTO ©COMBAL ZERO

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Davide defines himself simply as a food designer yet his unbridled passion and detailed research are in permanent demand at the University of Turin where he teaches a course in Food Design and shares his knowledge in breaking down dishes and reconstructing their ingredients. On the odd occasion this restless chef takes time off, he is often seen indulging in his second love - golf, a sport he has combined with food for charity events in the past.

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DAVIDE SCABIN

WG Magazine Publisher catches up with Chef Davide Scabin... It’s interesting to learn how Chef’s find their passion for cooking and where they grew up. Davide Scabin tell us how he found his way into the culinary field to become one of the most innovative, gifted Italian chefs and the most sought-after Chef in the world… My mother is the reason why I decided to become a chef. When I was a child I had a very vivid imagination. Firstly I wanted to be a professional thief like Arsenio Lupen. She caught me trying to remove bricks from the wall down in the cellar, with the intention of robbing the bank next-door. Then I wanted to be a broker and I started

swapping and selling football players’ stickers making a few bids as well… but again, I got caught. . Meanwhile, on TV there was the TV series called “Love Boat”. My mother always wanted to travel the world, but various situations - including getting married and having me - prevented her dream becoming reality. She used to make me watch it with her and very cleverly sowed the seed. She used to say: “If you become a chef you will be able to travel around the world!” And that was it. I ended up joining catering school!

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PHOTO Â©SERRANI BRAMBILLA

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“ALL’ORTOLANA” PIGEON GIN & KIDNEY SALTIMBOCCA . ZERO FELICETTI “TRICK” SPAGHETTI, RAMEN AND SQUID

Up&Down

VERACE AUBERGINE “LOUBOUTIN“ PEPPER AND ANCHOVY BUBBLE MILK SCALLOP 5 POINTS “SASSOON VIDAL“ ICED SALAD AND OYSTERS CHOCOLATE LITTLE MIDNIGHT DOUGHNUT COLD FUSION

Never stop exploring taste... Non smettere mai di esplorare il gusto... Chef Scabin’s cuisine is unique, inspired by design oriented experimentation with quality ingredients, shapes, texture and temperatures – the great Combal.zero experience Up&Down and Down&Up. A cuisine very creative with the finest produce and creating a composition of flavours – complex and modest yet impeccably balanced and getting more out of the food and flavours - Chef Scabin tells us how he brings this balance on a plate…

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What I try to create at Combal.Zero is an experience, not just a meal. I like to play with customers and create mental expectation, all of which influence taste. The way I think in the kitchen has evolved recently. Until 2007, I was trying to produce and create objects, a personal expression, Cyber Eggs or Virtual Oyster, for example. But, when you’ve played with everything you have available to you - each individual product - you must create another, bigger challenge. I wanted to reverse the two wires, the red and the black and go back to basics. With this new challenge, we want to work on a design system and take control of the primary tastes: salty, sweet, spicy, sour, bitter, even leaving aside the umami, a complex flavour, which is not part of western food culture. I consider myself pretty lucky because, in search of inspiration, I have ideas that come in very different ways.

UP&DOWN PHOTO ©COMBAL ZERO

The Up&Down and Down&Up menus are two deceptively identical but completely different gastronomical experiences. The Down&Up menu, in traditional manner, begins with the lightest dish and moves forward towards more complex dishes, finishing with the “all’ortolana” pigeon. On the flip side, the Up&Down menu presents a new twist by beginning with the most complex dish and ending with the lightest: The frozen oyster salad. I believe that by leading with the more complex flavours and finishing with the more simple, clean, and acidic dishes, it sparks mental curiosity and aids the body’s natural digestive system and ultimately we get more out of the food and its flavours. WG September 2016 -

DAVIDE SCABIN

The idea that cuisine never lies still and you find the inspiration through your work and the desire to blur culinary and artistic boundaries with the focus on taste - Davide Scabin shares this brilliance culinary philosophy… Brilliance culinary philosophy? It sounds very complicated when it is super simple. I think it’s all about giving pleasure to people in many other ways. Sometimes I see myself like a ‘pusher’... providing people something that they will be craving. I love to see people relaxed, enjoying their moment, the experience. I love seeing people merging together through the medium of gastronomy.

The famous ‘cyber egg’ – a combination of egg yolk and caviar in a plastic shell that diners slice with a scalpel so the mixture explodes into their mouths...

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CYBER EGGS PHOTO Â©COMBAL ZERO

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The airy interiors are flooded with natural light and boast well-spaced tables, polished wood flooring, exposed brick and a minimalist pallet of cream and black leather.

COMBAI.ZERO PHOTO ÂŠCOMBAL ZERO

The huge plate glass walls sit in elegant contrast with the original buildingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s historic Baroque architecture and offer breath taking views over the city of Turin.

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COMBAI.ZERO PHOTO Â©COMBAL ZERO

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SPAGHETTI PIZZA MARGHERITA PHOTO ©COMBAL ZERO

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CIPOLLA PHOTO ©COMBAL ZERO

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Chef Scabin describes his culinary style, take us through the process he goes through creating a new dish and his inspirations behind his creationsâ&#x20AC;Ś What inspires me? Life itself. Each single instant of my life. Any external or internal input can stimulate my creativity. For example: one of my latest ideas came from looking through a car magazine.

I came across an article about a new system of shock absorbers. I suddenly realized that a mechanical shock works just like our human language: a platform that moves up four paces. From there I began to think about dishes that have an ergonomic design that moves on four, depending on how you introduce the food into the mouth, it then allows us to perceive tastes differently. Recently, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve come across the Golden Ratio. It made me think and reopen the window to an old passion, maths! Only God knows where this Golden Ratio will take me.

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Chef Scabin tells us which ingredients inspires him, how he chooses his ingredients, his favourite ingredients and ingredients that intrigues him… I get obsessed very easily with any ingredient, but my weakness is definitely Japanese dashi and what it’s in it - I am bewitched by its smell of sea with smoky undertones. Choosing the right ingredients is essential. I’m always searching out new sources that I can trust and rely upon for good, high-quality ingredients; and my entire brigade is constantly involved in this process too. “Eggs - The most beautiful object of design in the world is Chef Scabin’s favourite ingredient.” Chef Scabin adds… “Last time I was in Singapore I was told that black chicken is always steamed or boiled, never roasted. That’s because the meat becomes tough and dry. I’ve never worked with a black chicken, but it does intrigue me indeed.”

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Special cooking equipment… “I enjoy working with a freeze dryer. It’s great fun. In 2012 I was given a yearlong assignment by the European Space Agency to produce a range of space food for astronauts and was asked to provide five nutritious dishes that were organic, had a long shelf life and were salt-free. Some of those ingredients like the space pesto are featured on my menus.” Produce, Creativity or Technique… The combination of all three are the reason behind the name of the restaurant Combal.Zero. Every two years I basically start form zero with a new concept and philosophy. Both of them are essential and interconnected with each other. FASSONA PHOTO ©COMBAL ZERO

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JOSÉ AVILLEZ - BAIRRO DO AVILLEZ, LISBON, PORTUGAL

José Avillez

Bairro do Avillez Inspiration cuisine and the mastermind behind Lisbon’s first two Michelin star restaurant gives Lisbon a new neighbourhood… PHOTO ©PAULO BARATA

One of Portugal’s great culinary figures love for cooking started an early age. As a child, José would spend three to four hours a day, after school, in the kitchen. Around the age of ten, he and his sister use to make cakes to sell to family and friends. But it was only during the final year of studying Communication that he realised that his heart belonged to the kitchen. José undertook several trips, training courses and traineeships as a chef, amongst others with Antoine Westermann at Fortaleza do Guincho, at Alain Ducasse’s school, in Eric Frechon’s kitchen at the Bristol Hotel, and at the renowned El Bulli, a step which really changed his career. Bairro do Avillez, José Avillez’s new restaurant, has just opened its doors at number 18 Rua Nova da Trindade in Lisbon. Spacious and surprising, with different eating areas inspired by the best Portuguese flavours, this is the most atypical of Lisbon’s neighbourhoods.

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JOSÃ&#x2030; AVILLEZ - BAIRRO DO AVILLEZ, LISBON, PORTUGAL

BAIRRO DO AVILLEZ PATEO

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“I discovered this property 5 years ago and I fell in love with it right away. A year ago, the opportunity came up for me to get it and I immediately started imagining a quarter inspired in Lisbon’s neighbourhoods and in my own memories,” explains José Avillez. The chef adds “Bairro do Avillez has different gastronomic offers, inspired by the best Portuguese flavours, presented in the following areas - Mercearia (grocery store), Taberna (tavern) and Páteo (patio).” Mercearia is a place for shopping, and Taberna and Páteo are dining venues. Bairro do Avillez is for everyone who likes amazing food and also wants to be surprised,” says José Avillez. Open every day from noon to midnight, Bairro do Avillez is a unique place to discover. In this atypical Lisbon neighbourhood you will find much more than you ever imagined. At Bairro do Avillez there’s a surprise on every corner. The world of José Avillez doesn’t fit in a single address, it is an entire universe devoted to creativity and to the best Portuguese flavours. In this new Lisbon district, overlooking the world, there is an irresistible Mercearia where you can buy delicacies, gifts, books, and chef worthy accessories; a wonderful Taberna for those who like amazing food; and the most spectacular Páteo in town, where seafood and fish are kings. A neighbourhood where you’d like to live. One of the best places to experience Lisbon.

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JOSÉ AVILLEZ - BAIRRO DO AVILLEZ, LISBON, PORTUGAL

Merceaira – buy gifts at a grocery store atypical? At Bairro do Avillez’s Mercearia it is perfectly normal. Here you can find the best cheese, cured sausages, and canned goods sit next to the kitchen accessories, books, and aprons. An unlikely recipe that works perfectly for those who love to eat, but also to cook, to learn and to shop for nice gifts. The charcuterie specialties rely on the advice of the illustrious “Manteigaria Silva.” At Bairro do Avillez’s entrance, “Manteigaria Silva” presents an extraordinary selection of high quality and carefully selected cheeses and cold meats that represents the best of what Portugal has to offer, from north to south, including the islands. All of this complemented with a specialized and personalized costumer service. These extraordinary products may be purchased to take away or to be savoured immediately, at the peak of their flavour, along with a good wine or a good beer.

BAIRRO DO AVILLEZ MANTEIGARIA SILVA

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BAIRRO DO AVILLEZ MANTEIGARIA SILVA

BAIRRO DO AVILLEZ MERCEARIA

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JOSÃ&#x2030; AVILLEZ - BAIRRO DO AVILLEZ, LISBON, PORTUGAL

BAIRRO DO AVILLEZ TABERNA

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Taberna – a must for lunch, dinner or a snack in the afternoon, at Bairro do Avillez’s Taberna there is much more than simple bread and wine on the table. Here you can find the best beef croquettes in Lisbon, a fantastic tuna steak sandwich with pickled seaweed with glasswort, and don’t be surprised if you come by some Spicy fried pork skin popcorn, a Horse mackerel tartar cone, or some other eye-popping dishes. After all, this is a very atypical Lisbon quarter. Páteo – this isn’t a funfair, much less a museum. It is the most spectacular Páteo in Lisbon, where seafood and fish are kings, but the meats rule. To make your visit unforgettable, order different dishes to share – shellfish, appetizers, meat, fish, and desserts. This restaurant was made for you to linger at the table in good company. At Páteo you can have lunch or dinner at any time 12 to 12. And if you feel your heart race and want to bring in all of your friends, you may do so. On Páteo’s first floor there is a balcony, ideal for large group lunches and dinners.

TABERNA BEEF STEAK SANDWICH

From the creative concept proposed by Chef José Avillez, and under his guidance, Bairro do Avillez’s architecture and interior designs were executed by Ana Anahony and Felipa Almeida, from Anahory Almedia atelier, who have been collaborating with Chef José Avillez in designing other projects. Among many surprises, this unique space also has a Joana Astolfi installation.

TABERNA OCTOPUS WITH GARLIC

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JOSÉ AVILLEZ - BAIRRO DO AVILLEZ, LISBON, PORTUGAL

José Avillez’s creative cuisine… Creativity requires perviousness and a deep desire for knowledge, both outside and within oneself. If the outer knowledge comes from undivided attention and actual insatiable interest for the world, for people, for history, for the present and for the future, the inner knowledge is based on a constant process of self-analysis and interrogation, meditation and reflection, on understanding and interpreting the outside world, giving meaning and identifying feelings, instincts, and emotions. Knowledge and research boost creativity and tune up intuition. Creativity instigates freedom! The absence of prejudice and the ability of believing without ceasing to question are vital for developing creative thinking. The cuisine expresses different moments of knowledge, learning and reflection, and expresses not only the evolution of technique but also the maturity, personality and soul of who creates it. Creating is an act of freedom with infinite possibilities of expression. Inside the kitchen, ingredients, techniques, technology, recipes, elaborations, and concepts serve creativity, in a world of infinite possibilities. A dish can take us on a journey to places, landscapes, times and stories. It can make us laugh or cry. It can get us to actually know a certain food, intensifying its flavor and texture or it can reveal a completely new dimension of a food we thought we knew, using the technique, technology , and/or unprecedented combination of flavors, making us see further ahead and arising perceptions, intimacies, feelings and emotions. Whenever we think and reflect, a double phenomenon of perception happens within us - at the same time we feel and acknowledge a certain frame of mind, we come across a random outer landscape that intersects our inner landscape. I see this intersection as the most accurate result of interpreting the seen and sensed reality. José Avillez

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JOSÉ AVILLEZ - BAIRRO DO AVILLEZ, LISBON, PORTUGAL

‘Bairro do Avillez’ is a place filled with delicious details that will reflect the Lisbon experience, simultaneously typical and cosmopolitan...

BAIRRO DO AVILLEZ MANTEIGARIA SILVA

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PATEO GRILLED SEA BASS

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TABERNA EXPLODING OLIVES

PATEO PASTELDE NAT AMILLE FEUILLE_

José Avillez adds “We (me and my great team) feel very grateful to see our work recognized. We also believe these are important achievements for Lisbon as a city and for Portugal as a country. We hope to strengthen Lisbon’s reputation as a tourist destination. Lisbon is one of the world’s most beautiful cities, it filled with history, it is full of life, it has a rich culinary heritage and it has wonderful hosts. There is a thin line between my creative and entrepreneurial side. I’m always thinking about new projects. For me, new ideas generate energy and give me a strong willingness to go beyond the normal boundaries of possibility.” Lisbon’s new neighbourhood… WG September 2016 -

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CINDY HUTSON

Cindy Hutson South Florida’s most celebrated chef... With an inherit passion for cooking, but no formal training and three kids to care for, Hutson was hesitant to open her first restaurant venture. Against the odds Hutson took the leap of faith and that same year opened Norma’s on the Beach. Rave reviews touted Hutson’s cuisine as “the best Caribbean restaurant in South Florida. Hutson’s culturally diverse and seasonally driven culinary style is heavily influenced by her extensive travel and food history. Her signature “Cuisine of the Sun” is a self-coined approach that means to create without limits and cook everything under the sun, infusing nuances of her famous island flavors throughout. “I thrive on teaching about our earth’s bounties, edible history and utilizing indigenous ingredients that are regionally prepared,” says Hutson about her culinary inspiration, which is apparent in her many regionally-inspired Caribbean concepts. More than 20 years later Hutson and her life partner, Delius Shirley have built a culinary empire with the successful opening and operation of more than eight award-winning concepts. Currently, the dynamic duo run their seventeen-year-old love-child, Ortanique on the Mile in Coral Gables, Florida, which opened with Esquire and Bon Appétit acknowledging it as one of the “Best New Restaurants” and Condé Nast Traveler awarding it as one of their “Hot Table” concepts; and their six-year-old Ortanique on the Crescent at Camana Bay on Grand Cayman Island, which has been praised by Caribbean Journal as one of the “Top 50 Best Restaurants” in the Caribbean.

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PHOTO Â© MICHAEL HERB

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CINDY HUTSON

Last spring, Hutson published her first cookbook, From the Tip of My Tongue (Story Farm), which received the prestigious 2015 Gourmand World Cookbook Award for “Best Woman Chef Cookbook in the United States.” In February 2016, Hutson will open Zest, a contemporary fine dining concept, and Zest MRKT for “grab and go” in downtown Miami’s Southeast Financial Center. The 3,500-square-foot restaurant and its adjacent market will both feature menus inspired by Hutson’s multi-ethnic and seasonally inspired “Cuisine of the Sun.” Additionally, Hutson and Shirley recently opened a Zest concept at The Cliff Hotel in Negril, Jamaica where her world cuisine is now enjoyed overlooking breathtaking views of the pristine Caribbean Sea.

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WG Magazine catches up with the awardwinning chef Cindy Hutson… It’s interesting to learn how chefs find their passion for cooking and where they grew up. Cindy Hutson tells us how she found his way into the culinary field to become the most soughtafter Chef in the world… I was always curious about strange and different edible things, ever since I was a toddler. My parents said I would eat anything, caterpillars, inch worms, raw clams, oysters and frogs legs. Although they tried to discourage me from eating the insects, my dad always loved the fact that I would never order from a children’s menu. He exposed me to adult foods from great restaurants. As I got older, living in New Jersey, “the garden state,” we had beautiful vegetables in the summer. I would prepare them after watching The Galloping Gourmet and Chef Tell on TV. I thought those chefs were amazing, they looked like they were having so much fun cooking and drinking their wine and running in and out with their TV audiences. I always had my mom buy ingredients for me to create dinners after school. Mom hated cooking anyway so she was happy. I did it for fun, never did I have the idea of being a chef until my partner, Delius Shirley, threw me into my first kitchen, my first restaurant, Norma’s on The Beach. And that is a story in itself.

ROOT BEER BRAISED PORK BELLY

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CINDY HUTSON

Cindy Hutson’s culinary creations is without limits, cooking everything under the sun, a combination of seasonal driven, infusing nuances of your famous island flavors, which is delicate and intense - how do you bring about this balance on a plate? I have been cooking ethnically for years, and mixing flavours from different cultures comes easy for me somehow. I balance out spicy bold flavours by adding a sweet component to the dish. I balance acidic flavours by adding a fatty protein.

BLUE MOUNTAIN COFFEE & COCOA CRUSTED CERTIFIED BEEF BRISKET PHOTO ©MIAMI CHEFS

Cindy’s describes her your culinary philosophy… My philosophy in the kitchen is simple, don’t confuse the flavours by adding too many different components to one dish. Create dishes that are flavourful, beautiful and recognizable, no matter what your ethnic background is. Cindy Hutson shares her greatest influences in the kitchen… “The team I cultivate and work with on a daily basis. They influence me and I influence them. “

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PHOTO Â©MICHAEL PISARRI

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CINDY HUTSON

MANGO AND BURRATA SALAD, 50-50 MEATBALL, CONCH SCAMPI PHOTO ©MICHAEL PISSARI

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NIMAN RANCH PORK TOMAHAWK CHOP PHOTO ©MICHAEL PISSARI

PAN ROASTED COBIA PHOTO ©MIAMI CHEFS

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JERK CHICKEN FRICASSE PAPARADELLE PHOTO ©MIAMI CHEFS

Cindy’s opinion on the best recipe she has ever created… This is almost too tough to answer. We are talking about 20 plus years of creating. So the dish my customers feel is a dish that can’t be removed from the menu is my “Pan Roasted Black Grouper in Ortanique Orange and Bacardi Limon Sauce with Sweet Plantain, Lemon- Boniato Mash.” I personally don’t think it was my most creative. It was a dish I put together very quickly one night after my son went fishing and brought back some amazing fresh grouper. It was a hit and still continues to be one of the best-selling and most requested dishes in all of my restaurants. Now of course, grouper has a season and so during months that it is no longer on the menu, customers are pissed. Cindy shares the process she goes through to create a new dish… “I don’t really have a process. I just see fresh seasonal produce, proteins, and spices and in my mind think of how they will work together and put it in a pot and voila it’s done. I guess, without sounding egotistical, I would have to say my gift is my palette and somehow, it guides me to create balanced complimentary components in every recipe I do. When I do wine dinners as a guest chef or with wine makers, the creating process is different. I don’t write a menu and then pair the wines. I get the wines first and taste many ingredients on tasting spoons along with that particular wine to create a dish that marries perfectly for each course.” WG September 2016 -

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CINDY HUTSON

Cindy tells us which ingredients inspires her, her favourite ingredients she likes working with and ingredients she has not been able to master… The new ingredients I am playing with now are meats for Shawarmas that I am serving at my newly opened Zest MRKT in Downtown Miami. Cindy adds “I am using Briskets, Lamb, pork belly and chickens to create new “World“ inspired shawarma sandwiches. These shawarmas are not typical nor are their toppings or condiments. For instance, some of the flavours include curried chicken in Greek yogurt marinade, with green mango chutney, Mojo Pork Belly with Tropical Chimichurri, Coffee and Cocoa Crusted Brisket with Polenta fries and Chipotle Agave Glaze. Mediterranean Lamb with Spinach and Artichoke dip. All get wrapped up in homemade pita wraps. Yummy.” I haven’t spent a lot of time trying (mostly because I don’t have a lot of time to try), molecular gastronomy is not something I have the equipment for or the time to do. Special cooking equipment… “Right now it is my shawarma roaster. I am having so much fun creating world inspired shawarmas.”

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SHAWARMA PHOTO Â©MIAMI CHEFS

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CINDY HUTSON

APPLE PIE PHOTO ©MIAMI CHEFS

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BLUEBERRY CHEESECAKE PHOTO ©MIAMI CHEFS

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Produce, Creativity or Technique… Product and creativity are most important to my style of cooking. It doesn’t matter what technique I use as long as I get the dish to look and taste the way I envisioned it. Guilty food pleasure… “Pizza, only I never feel guilty when I eat a great one. I only feel guilty if it wasn’t worth the calories.” “From The Tip Of My Tongue” from your childhood memories of New Jersey, Florida and her extensive international culinary journeys, Cindy Hutson takes us through a culinary experience with her signature ‘Cuisine of the Sun’ – an new vision of contemporary Latin cooking and the inspiration while writing this book… My inspirations are my family, my heart and my passion for people, travel and food history. My parents taught me at a very young age about a welcome table and “the more the merrier.” Food has brought people together since the beginning of time whether it be for commerce, celebration, and a means of currency or an introduction to a new culture. It inspires me with great joy to be able to gather people around my recipes and create an experience. Winning numerous awards in the last 20 years, Cindy tells us what motives her… “My travels motivate me along with new flavours. I have always used ethnic ingredients in my food, which is why I coined it “Cuisine of the Sun.” I couldn’t think of a one word description to describe my style of cooking. “ Being a chef is perceived as a glamorous profession, Cindy gives her take on chefs who are first entering the field today… Being a chef is an emotionally, physically challenging undertaking. It can be rewarding, tiring, stressful, educational, heart-breaking, and gratifying, which in turn is the most amazing experience ever. It is a roller coaster just like my words. If the negative out measures the positive….get off the ride.

ZEST PHOTO ©MICHAEL PISARRI

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ANA ROÅ

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Ana Roš

Text HANGAR-7

Ana Roš is extremely cosmopolitan. Understandable, considering that the top Slovenian chef was allowed to travel the world from an early age and, thanks to her degree in diplomatic studies, has even learned five languages. But rather than becoming a diplomat, Ana opted for a career in the kitchen. At her Hiša Franko restaurant in an Alpine valley close to the Italian border, she combines all her impressions into a cuisine that is local and traditional, yet international and avant-garde at the same time. At the age of seven, there was nothing to suggest that Ana had a glittering career as a chef before her. She was a promising young athlete, who even made it onto Yugoslavia’s national ski team. But at the age of 18, she ended her skiing career to study diplomatic science in Italy. Her aim: a career as a diplomat. But things turned out differently. Because, after graduating, she met her future husband Valter. At the time, Valter’s father owned the Hiša Franko restaurant, not far from the Italian border. Just as Ana was about to start a job in the European Commission, Valter’s father gave up the restaurant and Valter decided to take over the reins at Hiša Franko. But the task would have been too big for Valter alone, so Ana had to make a decision. “I said: OK, I accept the challenge, let’s give it a go!” Ana explains.

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ANA ROŠ

In the beginning, they both worked as waiters in the restaurant and travelled a lot to find out more about good food and culinary delights. But when staff gradually began to leave the restaurant, they realised that something had to change. As Valter was a renowned sommelier, it was up to Ana to take over management of the kitchen. Although she had no chef’s qualifications, she did have the necessary talent – thanks to her mother and grandmother, who were both excellent cooks. “My mother’s cooking was always very sophisticated, very tasty and very healthy. And she only used local ingredients.” Ana and Valter went on more trips to eat in the world’s finest restaurants, find inspiration and develop their own culinary principles. “I knew the right direction to take – to concentrate on local and seasonal food – but the problem was that my hands didn’t always obey my brain. I lacked some of the necessary techniques”, says Ana. She therefore set out to learn the technical side from scratch – among others, with the help of a chef who taught at a catering school.

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PASTA FILLED WITH SHEEP COTTAGE CHEESE, LANGOUSTINES, GREEN ASPARAGUS BONE MARROW

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ANA ROŠ

My approach to the kitchen today is technical, almost scientific, but it stills lets the ingredients to develop or preserve the original (strong) taste... “Raw” is my favorite the element of surprise is essential for me some different texture - cold/warm, soft/hard or some taste contrast - bitter/sour; sweet/salty...

“I practicaly closed myself in kitchen working hard on tecniques, flavours, studying from many books I have (traditional and modern), trying to understand my own way. I wanted to be able to express the season, the territory, my caracter, my travels, my femininity. I sometimes say that I wished all the time that my hands could follow my head...”

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SNAILS IN A SPRING GARDEN PICKLED BEETROOT, SUNCHOKES, SNAILS MELTING EGG YOLK AND GREENS

SANJSKI VRTICEK

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ANA ROÅ

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REVIVAL OF BRODETTORED MULLET, SCORPION FISH, CANDY LEMON, RED ONION MARINATED IN ORANGE BLOSSOMS

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Anyone trying one of Ana’s dishes today would never imagine that she’s ever done anything else but cook. With perfect technique, Ana manages to combine different, contrasting flavours and textures into dishes that are so delicious they stay in the memory for ages. And almost all the ingredients she uses come from the local region. Her so-called “0-kilometre” ingredients, such as the self-bred trout or the garden-grown herbs, ensure maximum freshness. The result? Creations such as imaginary garden (different textures and temperatures of seasonal fruits and vegetables), Pasta filled with liquid pumpkin,

WALNUT MERINGUE, 21 DAY KEFFIR, PEAR IN CAMOMILLE, FOREST HONEY AND POLLINE ICE CREAM

oxtail soup, candied red onions, beetroot leaves and black truffle egg zabaione or Black barley, oysters and mortadella, - Roe buck, gentiana sauce, white bread, rowan berries or plum, whey and porcini. Thanks to these and other dishes, Ana Roš is now considered the best chef in Slovenia. Some even say the best in the Alps. The former diplomacy student Ana Roš has brought back lots of inspiration and ideas from her travels. These find their way into her seasonal and locally oriented dishes to create a cuisine that is best described as worldly local. Or, as we like to say: absolutely delicious! WG September 2016 -

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ANDREA BERTON

Andrea Berton Milan’s most decorated chef... Born in Friuli, Andrea’s cooking adventure started in Milan as member of Gualtiero Marchesi brigade in Via Bonvesin della Riva, it was here that he learnt how to cook at a Michelin-starred level. His training continued in the best restaurants of the world: first from Mossiman’s in London, then at the legendary restaurant in Florence at Enoteca Pinchiorri, and finally at the Louis XV in Monaco under the guidance of Alain Ducasse. In 1997 Andrea worked as the chef of the Taverna di Colloredo in Monte Albano, his incredible cooking gained him his first Michelin star. Gualtiero Marchesi was impressed and offered Andrea to be the group executive chef. In 2005 he started his collaboration with Piazza della Scala in Milan with the opening of Il Ristorante, which led to being recognized as the best new restaurant of the year by the Italian Restaurants Guide of L’Espresso in 2007. In two years, the restaurant won two Michelin stars in 2009, three Forks by Gambero Rosso in 2010 and three Hats in the guide of L’Espresso in 2011.

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In 2012, Andrea started working with a group of partners, providing consultancy, ideas and management to new businesses in the restaurant sector, the most important opening restaurant Pisacco, and the following year DRY Cocktail&Pizza. The opening of the new Berton’s Restaurant, Andrea Berton returns to play a leading role in haute cuisine on the international scene. The return to “his” cuisine takes place with the opening of Ristorante Berton where the chef presents “modern dishes” enhancing the basic ingredients and featuring some ingredients that are not well known. The Restaurant which bear the name of the chef, characterized by a cuisine where flavours are always recognizable to palate...

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RISOTTO CON CODE DI GAMBERI / RISOTTO WITH RAW SHRIMPS AND SHELLFISH CORAL PHOTO © DAVIDE SEQUINO

WG MAGAZINE

It’s not a coincidence that Andrea Berton choose to open his restaurant in the new Porta Nuova Varesine area, futuristic urban project that with its residential towers and the ultra-modern business district became an emblem of the “new” metropolitan Milano. Andrea Berton’s choice lies on the modernity of the landscape, attention to ambient sustainability, rigorous and linear beauty of the buildings. These aspects can be found in his cuisine, elegant and essential, focused on primary flavours where ingredients are pure and can be recognized at the first taste, where creativity is used to evolve tradition. WG September 2016 -

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ROASTED SUCKLING LAMB SHOULDER, LEEK AND BLACK GARLIC PHOTO © DAVIDE SEQUINO

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RISOTTO IN PIZZAIOLA STYLE AND MOZZARELLA PHOTO © DAVIDE SEQUINO

WG MAGAZINE

In the kitchen, Chef Andrea Berton researches into every dish the highest quality of tastes, using the most advanced techniques. In his restaurant Berton presents “modern food” as he likes to call them, with an enhancement of the basic ingredients, and the revelation of some little-known ingredients. “My dishes are always built around primary flavors that are recognizable to the palate and my guest, already from reading the menu, you can start to imagine the dish. The ingredients are not upset in the pot, but combined together to build a new harmony that does not affect the direct contribution of each of the ingredients.

The experimentation and research must always be at the service of a single goal: to fascinate the customer. My kitchen is crisp and direct, all centered on the balance: the elements that make up my dishes are decided and understandable, they are not hidden to the palate.” The main focus of his menu is the stock, in many variations, customs cleared from the usual role of base component and lifted up to a real course: warm in winter and cool in summer. Unusual protagonist within its menu is the broth that, ennobled to proper course, represents the highest synthesis of each dish main ingredient, the essence of taste. The menu changes depending on the availability of ingredients proposing, next to the traditional list, a formula “Out to Lunch” that combines great quality with the guests timing requirements. WG September 2016 -

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The interiors of the restaurant reflect the chefs’ personality and philosophy. The architectural rigor is mitigated by the use of materials. Simplicity and elegance create a cozy and intimate atmosphere, focusing on simplicity but without giving up a little scenic surprise...

CHEF’S TABLE PHOTO © DAVIDE SEQUINO

But the real surprise, and the original element that catches the attention in the room is a kind of booth, or better, a real “compass” of wood: elm flamed as other details of the room, is a kind of “engagement” between the hall and the kitchen, with a table that from the dining room ideally continues, interrupted by a frosted glass effect gauze, inside the kitchen. The four seats on the side of the room, enjoy a partial, but privileged, view of the kitchen, while 2 are located directly inside. This is an evolution of the classic Chef’s Table dining experience “site specific”, topped with a bit of originality.

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PHOTO Â© DAVIDE SEQUINO

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PHOTO Â© FELICE SCOCCIMARRO

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CANESTRELLI CON CREMA DI LIQUIRIZIA, CORALLO, GERMOGLI DI LIQUIRIZIA ELIMONE PHOTO © FELICE SCOCCIMARRO

RIGATONI CON MAIONESE AL PREZZEMOLO, COZZE, VONGOLE E FASOLARI PHOTO © FELICE SCOCCIMARRO

GAMBERI ROSSI PHOTO © DAVIDE SEQUINO

SLIPPER LOBSTER BROTH WITH RAVIOLI WITH GARLIC, OLIVE OIL AND CHILI PEPPER PHOTO © FELICE SCOCCIMARRO

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Andreaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beautiful food is dedication to good ingredients ingredients, which he turns them into Michelin-starred masterpieces... a cuisine that is essential and elegant, where tastes are always recognizable to the palate...

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CASSATA PHOTO ÂŠ DAVIDE SEQUINO

WG MAGAZINE

UOVO YOGURT MANGO EGG PHOTO © DAVIDE SEQUINO

The windows are covered with elm wood flamed, which warm the atmosphere, in harmony with the paneled walls of bright paper painted in the French way to get a refined texture. Cement floors - an elegant contrast with simple neutrality and the ceilings long tilted degrading panels have been used to create a choppy effect and a dynamic perspective, as well as soundproofing the room. Simple black oak tables have a deliberately material surface, the edges are finished with a “flare” on the contrary, and a detail that brings a touch of elegance and offers an unusual support of great comfort, almost anatomical. A large asymmetric door, unique piece of craftsmanship, separates the living room from a small private room, to accommodate business lunches. An oasis in the middle of Milan… WG September 2016 -

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MAURO COLAGRECO

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MAURO COLAGRECO COOK WITHOUT BORDERS

PHOTO Â©ANTHONY LANNERETONNE

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CANNELLONI DE CRAB PHOTO @EDUARDO TORRES

WG MAGAZINE

Argentinian of Italian origin, who arrived in France in 2001 without mastering the language of Molière, Mauro Colagreco has become one of the most promising Chef barely a few months after moving to Menton in 2006 ... two steps of the former border that separates France from Italy. THE RESTAURANT BETWEEN LAND AND SEA The majestic building is 30 years. Encamped at the foot of one of the oldest avocado trees in France, extended by a garden in which grow mint, chives, sage, wormwood, oregano and other savory in the shade of orange trees, it overlooks the Mediterranean. Behind his back, the Alps come to die at the feet of the big blue bay. After four years working with the best chefs of France - Colagreco headed to France and took an internship with Bernard Loiseau, where he remained as demi-chef de partie until Loiseau’s death in 2003. He then worked in Paris and held the positions of sous-chef de cuisine to Alain Passard at l’Arpège, demi-chef de partie at Alain Ducasse at the Hotel Plaza Athénée, finally spending a year at Le Grand Véfour. In 2006, Mauro decided to open a restaurant around the Mediterranean basin. Spain draws him particular for the language that he knows and Italy because of his origins. Finally, by chance, he chooses Menton and acquired the old address closed for several years.

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MIRAZUR PHOTO @ANTHONY LANNERETONNE

A BREATHTAKING BACKDROP The restaurant offers a magical view of the Mediterranean and Menton. No one can remain unaffected, even if very fast, the gaze no further carries to the horizon but to the fascinating plates cooked by Mauro. Built on a mountain, the Restaurant building opens onto the terraces. With light dĂŠcor in which include some works signed by designer Stephanie Marin. Tables spaced arise between fireplace and bay window. At the lower level, the bar also extended by a terrace. To have a look at the sea from the kitchen, Mauro took advantage of the winter months to break down the wall that separated the bar, allowing its customers to look away from the sea to the kitchen window where the active brigade works. Italians, Argentines, Venezuelans, Japaneseâ&#x20AC;Ś a kitchen brigade without borders. A few steps down and we find ourselves in the herbs and citrus garden. Besides the avocado, the garden is full of lemon, orange, mandarin, clementine and grapefruit that offer shade to dozens of varieties of herbs that each guest can feel and touch before or after the meal.

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CALAMAR BAGNA CAUDA PHOTO @EDUARDO TORRES

COCHON DE LAIT ET PRUNE PHOTO @EDUARDO TORRES

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DAVID KINCH

YOSHIHIRO NARISAWA

RENÉ REDZEPI

MAURO COLAGRECO CELEBRATES A DECADE OF MIRAZUR WITH 10 OF THE WORLD’S MOST ACCLAIMED CHEFS

VIRGILIO MARTINEZ

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ALEX ATALA

ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ

EMMANUEL RENAUT

JORGE VALLEJO

MASSIMO BOTTURA

WG MAGAZINE

Mirazur celebrate its first momentous decade, with an unprecedented series of exclusive dinners named M10 throughout 2016.

M10’s calendar line-up May 27th - David Kinch Manresa, Los Gatos – USA May 30th – René Redzepi Noma, Copenhagen – Denmark June 28th – Alex Atala D.O.M, São Paulo – Brazil July 7th –Yoshihiro Narisawa Narisawa, Tokyo – Japan September 8th – Andoni Luis Aduriz Mugaritz, San Sebastian – Spain September 21st – Virgilio Martinez Central, Lima – Peru October 4th – Emmanuel Renaut Flocons de Sel, Megève - France October 5th – Sebastien Bras Bras, Laguiole – France October 19th – Jorge Vallejo Quintonil, Mexico City – Mexico October 27th – Massimo Bottura Osteria Francescana, Modena – Italy

Since opening its doors in April 2006, Mirazur has become a leading destination for some of the world’s greatest culinary writers, chefs and lovers of gastronomy who regularly travel to the sundrenched restaurant on a yearly pilgrimage. To celebrate its 10 year anniversary and in true Mirazur style, Chef Patron Mauro Colagreco has invited 10 of the world’s most acclaimed chefs and personal friends, to take over his kitchen for an evening. Guest chefs will create a one-off tasting menu for one night only, on dates from May 27th until the 28th October - just before the restaurant’s annual winter closure. The chef team celebrating a decade of Mirazur are: David Kinch, Rene Redzepi, Alex Atala, Yoshihiro Narisawa, Andoni Luis Aduriz, Virgilio Martinez, Emmanuel Renaut, Sebastien Bras, Jorge Vallejo and Massimo Bottura. Each chef will create a one-off tasting menu, starting with 3 appetisers to set the mood. This will be followed by seven-course menu, also showcasing each chef individual approach and cultural influences. Set in a landscape between the French Alps and the Mediterranean Sea with panoramic views over the harbour of Garavan, Mirazur and its surroundings will be the inspiration for each of the guest-chefs individual interpretation of this restaurant’s unique identity. With an extensive variety of seasonal vegetables from the gardens at Mirazur, coupled with the rich variety of local and regional produce to choose from, each birthday menu promises to deliver a series of exciting and exclusive seasonal tastes and flavours – a perfect marriage between land and sea. WG September 2016 -

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SALADE DE BETTERAVE PHOTO ©EDUARDO TORRES

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SALADE D’ HARICOTS ET CERISES PHOTO @JOSE LUIS DE ZUBIRIA

WG MAGAZINE

THE COOK BECOMES A GARDENER â&#x20AC;&#x153;When a vegetable grows naturally next to another is that they are meant to be together on the plateâ&#x20AC;? by Mauro Colagreco From this observation was born the desire to develop its own garden. On the heights of the restaurant, Mauro enjoys acres terraces that surround the property. Facing the sea every morning, the brigade just picks the flowers, fruits and vegetables grown without chemical fertilizers or pesticides. In addition to the 39 varieties of tomatoes, one that has a very strong taste of truffle, there is everything a cook can expect: broccoli, beets, watercress, horseradish, wild radish for their leaves, chard blood, arugula, white carrots, yellow or red ... land as a source of inspiration and creativity in the Mediterranean Sea. From this treasure offered by the soil, Mauro has focused its cuisine based on the garden. It has become the heart of his creations. A KITCHEN WITHOUT BORDER BETWEEN LAND AND SEA, HERBS AND FLOWERS, BITTERNESS AND ACIDITY Between land and sea: because he juggles between the prawns and squid from Italy, fish from the Menton coast and products that the garden offers. Between herbs and flowers: because Mauro prefers to play on the scent of herbs and flowers to flavor a vinaigrette or place them in flavor. Between bitterness and acidity: to make the graphics of its plates, more contrast between flavors. Thus citron and purple cauliflowers intersect around a Saint-Jacques and the radish flowers alongside an aged balsamic between cooked and raw beets. PHOTO @EDUARDO TORRES

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MAUROâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S KITCHEN IS BOLD AND VERY PERSONAL He has imposed a style of its own in the interpretation of the product and the contrast of flavors. A style that is not rooted in the Italian-Argentine cultural heritage and that doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t refer to the great Chefs with whom he worked in France. Mauro Colagreco feels free to express himself by following his intuition that leads him to dig into the local culture on both sides of the border. In Mirazur nothing is fixed. If the menu changes on average every two months, the audacity of Mauro Colagreco is based at his ability to do ephemeral dishes invented for a service, two days or a week. Just because he sees a product that inspires him, Mauro decides to display it on a plate. The creation is born, a symbol of freedom of expression and inspiration of the moment.

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HUITE AU PORE PHOTO @EDUARDO TORRES

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TARTELLETTE AU PISTACHE PHOTO @EDUARDO TORRES

WG MAGAZINE

MAURO COLAGRECO A COOK, GLOBETROTTING OF TASTE

To stay in touch with his native country as the only Argentinian Chef to have 2 Michelins in the world, Mauro Colagreco agreed to become Chef Consultant for the beautiful Hotel Alvear Palace in the heart of Buenos Aires. From the 30s, Alvear Palace personified social life, cultural and political life of Argentina. He participated in the development Mauro Colagreco has the chance to close his of the restaurant l’Orangerie and the Lobby Bar, restaurant when winter frosts. Three months providing all European influences that make his during which it does not remain inactive. Mauro work at Mirazur. has energy to spare, he traveled much by taste, curiosity and desire to discover and share the results To stay in contact with his vegetables, he agreed to of his experiments, whether Japan, the United sign some of the dishes for Kitchendiet program. States, Brazil, Lebanon, Abu Dhabi, Singapore and Seduced by the proposed method of cooking, each others... just bring in him the desire to new culinary ingredient is cooked separately to preserve the taste and flavors of food; he devised the first eight territories. dishes where perfumes and flavors intermingle, To stay in contact with the oven, he gladly accepts where vegetables, herbs and spices have their say. the invitation of his colleagues to make exceptional Finally, to keep in touch with people he loves and dinners, four or more hands, as in Megeve with Chef supports, it works with his friend Karim Djekhar, Emmanuel Renaut, along with seven other Chefs owner of Saint Michel oil mill at Menton. They from Italy, England and from the four corners of worked at development of olive oil infused with France. Also in the spirit of sharing and exchange, Menton lemons. The complexity of the realization Colagreco regularly hosts his colleagues and of this oil lays in the combination of two fruits with friends for spontaneous dinners at Mirazur. Have differing properties. It is using the same process as already done with Fulvio Pierangelini - Tuscany, the perfumers of Grasse in the seventeenth century, Pascal Barbot – L’Astrance in Paris, Claude Bosi by maceration and several filtering; they could - Hibiscus in London or David Kinch, Manresa in achieve this delicate balance, which they keep California. secret.

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DIDIER ELENA - CHEFS CLUB, NEW YORK

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DIDIER ELENA Chefs Club Text Oilda Barreto

“I think with food the most important things are the pleasure, the love and a story to tell.” Didier brings a mastery of classic, fine-dining cuisine that complements the eclectic styles of FOOD & WINE’s Best New Chefs that are selected to create the menu of seasonally inspired cuisine exclusively for Chefs Club. Didier Elena is the Culinary Director of CHEFS CLUB BY FOOD & WINE, spearheading the restaurant’s unique culinary programming. Hugely talented and witty, Didier Elena is known for his immaculate techniques, his respect for ingredients and his boundless imagination, which is evident in every single dish.

PHOTO @WILLIAM HEREFORD

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WG Magazine catches up with Chef Didier Elena… Chef Didier tells us how he acquired his passion for food…

next day I started in his kitchen. It was really like there was nothing planned. The only thing was that “I grew up in Monaco. My father was a professional I met him. It was at beginning of a weekend in the fisherman, my mum was a doctor and I had an summer of 1988 and after talking and talking he Italian grandmother, you know about those Italian said come by tomorrow, have a coffee with me, I Grandmothers, cooking food all day long. So, can show you the kitchen. And I went the day after I was in between medicine, food, and fish - you and stayed there and ended up working with him for 25 years! Yes, it doesn’t end well….when he know, those Mediterranean flavors. decided to close “Adour” in New York and I didn’t As I matured, I became more attracted to food want to go back to Europe because I had a wife than fishing or medicine. At around the age of 12, and kids. I wanted to stay here and I did stay in I was staying with my grandmother and helping her the US but in retrospect, I stayed with Alain for 25 make Italian food, very basic food like all the pastas years. But it’s simple, very simple.” and other Italian stuff. I realized I liked that lifestyle. Later when I was about 15, my cousin owned a Though Chef Didier claims to us a “very simple” pastry shop in Monaco and I started going there 25 years, but we claim to him that it’s a lot of and helping him for holidays like Christmas, Easter, experience he actually developed in those 25 years and during the summer. It was usually during all of with Alain Ducasse. He tells us more: the holidays when there was no school that I was there. I was helping him create some cakes and “Well, yeah because it was the beginning and in with everything else that materializes in the pastry the beginning it is always very interesting, especially shop. I think this is really there where it started.” with all the new openings. Paris. New York, Hong Kong, London, you know, it never stopped! It is like Didier was enrolled in medical college when he every year he said, ‘okay so now I am going to met someone who steered his life in a different fly by myself and do something but, there is some direction. “One day in Monaco I was on my way to new thing here but, I want see this organization… go to the medicine school, everything was set up for so, you stay for more than 20 years. It was always me to go to the medicine school. It was in August very, very interesting. Ducasse was growing so fast, that I met a man in his late 20’s, Alain Ducasse. We the company was growing so fast, everything was talked and we talked and we talked and the very WOW like just go work, you learn, you learn, you learn and that was like, amazing. It was the right time; I think it was the right time to be there.”

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ALAIN DUCASSE, DOMINIQUE LORY, AND DIDIER ELENA PHOTO @MIKE MALLETTE

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BIEN CUIT X CHEFS CLUB LOBSTER ROLL

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KATIE BURTON

WG MAGAZINE

One Thursday night Ducasse called me in the office. He said, “Didier, Monday I want you to be at Bocuse’s. You are going to be there for two years then afterward you are coming back.” That was the idea at that time like 16 – 20 years ago; there were chefs who sent you to some other chefs to get another experience because it was great. So, I was sent by Ducasse to Bocuse and I stayed for eighteen months in Lyon. He was great. It was great. Imagine, you are from Monaco you would think its shiny, beautiful, golden, it’s whatever and you arrive in Lyon or rather, in “Collongesau-Mont-d’Or”, the restaurant. It is super, it’s a legend mostly because it’s from Bocuse, the man DIDIER ELENA AND GILLES EPIE when he shakes your hand, everything in your body PHOTO ©AARON ARIZPE shakes. I was lucky to experience that because he was there still in the kitchen. I think it’s a little bit of a sweet story from the past that you can have Chef Elena takes us back to when he first started at the restaurant. To live in the past as if it is not working with Paul Bocuse, he tells us about the written in a book, but it’s something you can live, experience working with Paul Bocuse, one of the you can eat it to have it be part of you. That was most prominent chefs of France who is associated fantastic, all those recipes coming from the fifties or with nouvelle cuisine... sixties, all in that flair. The cooking and whole style management, it was a lot, I think differently now so, that was great. hard but, great.”

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Chef Elena is known to be a creator of flavors and a composer of tastes, we asked, “Your culinary creations are delicate yet intense exacting flavors with perfect coherence, pure and simple - how do you bring about this balance on a plate?”

WG MAGAZINE

“You know, I think there are no rules. The only thing is it can be anything you see during the day, anything that you are thinking, and anything that you are watching. I would say for different styles of cuisine you need follow what you like that is for sure, if you are doing something that you don’t like it is always going to be like shit. So you need to go with the style that you like, don’t force nature, you like what you like. And then it is like having a book, all the information is in the closed book, you need to make it an open book on the plate. Then if you see the image, for me it’s the flavor, it needs to be spread out on the plate. All of those flavors spread out on the plate. Some people prefer to make that

inside of something and you need to crack the shell in order to discover the flavors. I am not like this. I prefer the one that where the plate is all open, it is for everybody. And then afterward I need to have a story behind every dish. Every time we are doing something there is a little voice in my head saying, ‘why are you putting that tomato, why are you putting that piece of leaf?” If I don’t have a story behind it, if there is no explanation, I leave it on the side. I think with the food the most important things are the pleasure, the love and a story to tell. If there is no story there is no food because there is no future. The food’s future is only because you have a story to tell.” WG September 2016 -

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Chef Didier Elena’s culinary philosophy and how he describe his cuisine…

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“Although it is very hard, you can’t always call me the SUV of the cuisine, like I can’t go everywhere I don’t really have a style because I cook in so many different places; I cook in the US, I cook in France, and my style of cooking at home is more Mediterranean. I am cooking from the American pot of different cultures, a different nationality in the Mediterranean. With Mediterranean and with the American, Italian, Spanish, French you know, all of those make my flavor, my cuisine. When I am cooking at home it is more that kind of cuisine. I think it is very important that when you go somewhere don’t try to do or impose or try to force people with what you know. Try just to learn the culture, then try to see how they eat, how they go at the table, how they enjoy things and afterward you can adapt your knowledge with their culture. That is the best way to do so it, yes, is very hard to say my style of cuisine is like this. I think its technique, there is technique behind it, and there is product behind it and high profiles of flavor. I like when the flavors are intense.”

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CHEF BRYANT NG - BEEF RIB

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CHEFS CLUB - NEW YORK

what they are doing. I love to read, I read a lot of books, I have a lot of food books at home and I love to share in the kitchen. Like why the Japanese are eating like this, why the Chinese are eating like this and I think this is what I need to absorb, it is about getting the maximum of information about different cultures of cooking. I don’t want to learn from just ‘somebody’, I think that is very important to learn from somebody, you learn the technique and you learn how to be with a lot of egos, you learn how to be professional but after all that it’s the food that is loved and the love is the future and the future is everywhere, you cannot track it. So I think for me, that is the most important influence.

Chef Didier Elena had a perfect answer for our next question: “In your opinion, what is the best recipe Chef Didier Elena’s greatest influences in the you have ever created? What inspired this recipe kitchen… and why?” “There are so many different people; there is Pierre Gagnaire, for me he is a genius guy, then Alain Passard with fantastic his cuisine with all the vegetables… There are so many, so many different people but before everything, for me, the most important thing is every time I go somewhere in a market or in a new country, I like to go in the centre of the market where the families are cooking to see

“I am going to tell you something. The best recipe, it’s funny, don’t get me wrong, the best recipe is going to be the one of tomorrow. I think when you start to say that is my best recipe then you are already dead though, you don’t want to be dead. I say the next one is going to be the best one. The people who are dead or dying, they tell this is the best they did, the best…but I am still alive.” WG September 2016 -

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We wanted Chef to share some of his favorite ingredients he likes to work with and if he has any special cooking techniques or equipment that he enjoys using…

We wanted to hear about his ingredient fascinations… “What new ingredient or ingredients are inspiring you right now and how do you select your ingredients?” “I think the current culinary world is about less meat, less fish or fish that is acceptable, and less sugar so for everything else we need to find a solution, we need to find new recipe, we need to find a new way to put it in that aspect of the present-day. We need to eat more grains, more juice, more vegetables, and more everything. Then when you want to eat fish or meat it’s because you know where it is coming from, to make sure it is not part of a mass pollution otherwise we are going to kill everything we have on earth if we don’t do that. We are crazy, we are generating mass pollution for feeding people and the people don’t need that, they just need good food.”

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“Tomatoes because you can eat, drink, everything with the tomato, there is every aspect of the tomato you can have. So I like those kinds of fruit/ vegetables. I like olive oil, there is anything you can do and everything that is bitter like the bitter greens like you know like everything that is has bitter taste, the aftershocks. I really love the bitter taste of the vegetable foods. And I love cooking with wood, everything with wood like a food oven, like a grill, like an Argentinian grill, like a pit smoker, everything that is cooked with wood, for me, it’s fantastic. Having a technique with something changeful, something very old, it is just wood and fire.” We asked Chef to differentiate what was more important to him, produce, creativity or technique… “I think the produce, the food product, is very important. The produce first because there are a lot of things that you can learn and then comes technique but when you destroy your produce as we talked about before with the mass pollution, when this happen you cannot go back. You destroyed the ground, you destroy your greed, and you destroy everything. So I would say the most importantly, first is the product and after that the technique, it is the best technique that you can apply to keep the product natural so you don’t destroy it, you don’t change it. We are not here to for changing the aspect of something we are just here to make it better, that’s it.

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NEW YORK CITY OYSTERS

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STONE FRUIT CRISP

WG MAGAZINE

Chef Didier Elena’s latest venture, “Chefs Club by Food & Wine”, it is a unique culinary program with different chefs involved in the conception of the menu. We wanted to know how do he collaborates with these visiting chefs… “You need to be super open minded; you need to not judge anything because it’ll make the concept different. You accept the fact there are some many different techniques, some may be a different way to eat, and there are so many different ways to cook, that you must embrace everything. So when you have one chef up and you look at his food, there is always one philosophy behind it. It’s the same philosophy or the same kind of technique so you need to hear, everybody is different, and every chef that is coming in is different. If you give one piece of vegetable to cook to everybody, everybody is going to cook it differently because their technique is different. So this first, you have to be very open minded and not judge, I never judge the way someone cooks, just accept it. Then afterward try to understand who is this person why this chef is doing it that way, he has a reason there is a reason for that. The more you learn those reasons, the more you become it, the better you like it, it is fantastic, it is great. It is an amazing concept with an amazing opportunity for a chef like me to learn everyday even if I am 45 years old, every day I am learning something new.”

Finally, being a chef is perceived as a glamorous profession, Chef Didier Elena gives his take on chefs who are first entering the field… “It is a long way, just listen to your heart and try to see further not about you in person, try to see the world, try to see what you can add, what you can bring to make sure that tomorrow we are going to eat better. It is not about yourself, it is not about the stars, it is not about the review, it is not about the photoshoot in the magazine, it about what’s new that you can bring to make sure tomorrow we can eat better.” WG September 2016 -

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HOLLY JIVIN

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A Savannah, GA, native, Holly grew up in a kitchen rich with Southern-style cooking traditions and had access to the region’s freshest seafood, unearthing a natural affection for home cooking. It wasn’t until halfway through her studies at Armstrong Atlantic State University that she decided to transform her passion for cooking into a career, and enrolled in the Culinary Arts program at the Art Institute of Atlanta. Holly worked her way through school at a local restaurant, where she was introduced to Chef Kaui Stryhn and Certified Master Chef Kevin Walker, who both encouraged her to work with them in the kitchen of the Cherokee Town & Country Club. The chefs took Holly under their wings and helped lay the foundation of her culinary career. In 2008, she relocated to West Virginia with her husband Adam Cole, a fellow chef, where the two were introduced to Chef Michael Voltaggio who later offered the couple positions in the kitchen of his next endeavor: the yet-to-open The Bazaar by José Andrés in Los Angeles.

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Since the restaurant’s opening, Holly Jivin has been a member of The Bazaar by José Andrés’ culinary team. Excelling in The Bazaar’s kitchen, Holly was promoted to Sous Chef in 2010. In this position, she worked hand-in-hand with then Chef de Cuisine Joshua Whigham on day-to-day operations at the restaurant. That same year Holly was named Head Chef of SAAM, the intimate chef’s tasting room located within The Bazaar, where she worked closely with Chef Andrés Research & Development team, developing new dishes and pushing the envelope of modern gastronomy. As Chef de Cuisine, Holly continues to work closely with Chef Andrés to craft and evolve The Bazaar’s modern Spanish-inspired cuisine.

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PHILLY CHEESESTEAK

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MODERN AND TRADITIONAL OLIVES

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THE BAZAAR - LIQUID NITROGEN CAIPRINHA

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The Bazaar by José Andrés: A Culinary Journey... Located at the crossroads of Beverly Hills and Los Angeles at the SLS Hotel at Beverly Hills, The Bazaar by José Andrés takes guests on a wild sensory adventure that blends Old World delicacies with avant-garde delights in a bold, multifaceted atmosphere. Far from your typical hotel dining experience, The Bazaar is widely regarded as one of Los Angeles’ top dining destinations, receiving recent nods in The Daily Meal’s “101 Best Restaurants” list, and SAAM at The Bazaar making Los Angeles Times food critic Jonathan Gold’s “101 Best Restaurants 2015.”

BAR CENTRO

Andrés and Chef de Cuisine Holly Jivin are redefining Spanish cuisine at The Bazaar, offering a menu of inventive tapas, cocktails, and more that play with the definition of classic ingredients. The restaurant is known for its innovative take on traditional tapas including the famed Olives Ferran Adrià – contrasting olives prepared in the traditional style against spherified iterations – and the Philly Cheesesteak, José’s wildly popular air bread filled with a silky cheddar espuma and topped with onion jam, fleur de sel, micro chives, and strips of seared Wagyu beef. Specialty cocktails are created by mixologists at The Bazaar’s Bar Centro, utilizing the same techniques and attention to detail, with iconic beverages like the “Salt Air” Margarita and the tableside-prepared Liquid Nitrogen 2 Caipirinha. WG September 2016 -

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With impressive and imaginative interiors by internationally acclaimed designer Philippe Starck, The Bazaar features a collection of dining and lounge experiences that resemble a modern-day indoor piazza. Comprised of six key spaces – SAAM, Bar Centro, Rojo Y Blanca, Regalo, Patisserie, and Bar Blanca – the restaurant design is bold and luxurious. Bar Centro is located at the center of the space, open to bar patrons and diners alike, while the two dining rooms – Rojo Y Blanca – offer a dramatic and interactive atmosphere for dinner service. Guests can end their evening in The Patisserie, brightly lit and spirited in its design, a perfect finale to The Bazaar experience.

THE BAZAR

Set in an elegant and secluded dining room, SAAM at The Bazaar offers a rotating 22-course tasting menu each Thursday, Friday and Saturday night, taking guests on a personalized journey of modern creations and traditional flavors. In the LA Times prestigious guide to the “101 Best Restaurants” in 2015, SAAM was recognized for its “luxurious tasting menus, including uni pouches, odd cocktails and cotton-candy dumplings, that both expand on and improve on the pleasures of the larger dining room outside.” Every year, SAAM celebrates the month-long White Truffle Dinner Series in the fall season and Black Truffle Dinner Series in the winter, spotlighting the earthy and complex flavors of both white and black truffles through a 16+ course tasting menu.

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TUNA CEVICHE AND AVOCADO ROLL

WATERMELON TOMATO SKEWERS WITH SEXY TOMATO SEEDS

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HOLLY JIVIN

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PATATAS BRAVAS

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Constantly evolving, The Bazaar recently announced the launch of Bar Blanca this summer, open every day from 4 to 7 PM. Located on the restaurant’s terrace, Bar Blanca brings the culinary culture and spirits of chef Andrés’ native Spain to Beverly Hills. A seasonally rotating menu showcases an expanded beverage and cocktail list, including traditional porron service of Spain – in a contemporary, relaxed environment. Bar Blanca presents the modern and playful cuisine of renowned chef José Andrés in a contemporary, relaxed environment, which echoes the restaurant’s collection of interactive and rotating dining experiences. The terrace menu celebrates a selection of The Bazaar’s signature, creative tapas – contemporary and whimsical takes on classic Spanish favorites – alongside a comprehensive beverage list that includes the region’s aperitivos, ciders, and wines.

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At Bar Blanca, guests can experience the flavors of chef Andrés’ creative cooking style through a set menu of shared tapas that include Tortilla de Patatas “New Way,” Oxtail Steamed Bun, Jicama Wrapped Guacamole, Jamón with Idiazábal and Catalan Style Toasted Bread, and Endive with Goat Cheese. Included in the terrace menu is a porron of refreshing Sidra (cider), Fino sherry, or Basque wine, following the classic Spanish presentation in a glass pitcher with a tapered spout.

With a focus on unique and rare spirits, Bar Blanca introduces an expanded beverage program that features craft-distilled liquor from all over the globe – which can be served neat, on ice, with tonic, or as an old fashioned. Guests can also indulge in refreshing low-alcohol cocktails, wines, and ciders suitable for terrace drinking, such as a variety of fragrant Gin & Tonics; the classic Spanish aperitivo, Vermut, served with an olive and orange slice over ice; Rebujito, made with Manzanilla, lemon soda, lime bitters, and ice; or pours of Spanish ciders, sherries, and the wines of Montilla. Alongside the diverse beverage program, Bar Blanca spotlights a cigar menu with premium selections to complement the terrace offerings.

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MARIS LUISA AND YUZU BON BONS

CHOCOLATE TART WITH CRUNCHY ALMONDPRALINE JIVARA MILK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE

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SYRCO BAKKER

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SYRCO BAKKER

TWO TYPES OF OYSTERS, SEAWEED, SEABUCKTHORN, ROCKET SALAD, FOIE GRAS AND JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE

Sun-drenched terraces, casual dining, sexy cocktails and funky beats: this may sound like Ibiza, but it’s actually Cadzand-Bad on the North Sea coast of the Netherlands. In the Pure C restaurant, Chef Syrco Bakker celebrates a wonderfully light and simple cuisine that is perfectly suited to its surroundings. “I believe that this is the future of haute cuisine, where quality on the plate goes hand-in-hand with a relaxed atmosphere” - these are the words of none other than the Netherlands’ top chef, Sergio Herman. And he would know, as he is in fact the

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proprietor of the Pure C restaurant and the brains behind this restaurant, in which the lightness of existence is celebrated in both the composition of the dishes and the clothing worn by the staff. The fact that Herman chose a real whippersnapper of a chef for the Pure C restaurant, namely Syrco Bakker, was a real talking point in the industry in 2011, however Bakker delivered upon the trust placed in him in truly impressive style. Within a year and a half of opening, he had already cooked his way to a Michelin star, and the Pure C restaurant is currently rated 17 out of 20 by Gault Millau.

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SYRCO BAKKER

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ARTICHOKES, CEP, GOAT CHEESE AND WATERCRESS

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This is not recognition enough however, especially when you consider that the concept differs wildly from anything else found to this date in the Zeeland province, which is so highly regarded by food connoisseurs, and the neighbouring Belgian region of Flanders. Syrco Bakker’s rise to stardom began when he was just a teenager displaying an extraordinary amount of ambition. He was constantly on the lookout for multiaward winning establishments in which he could complete internships. That is how he ended up working at JeanGeorges Klein’s L’Arnsbourg restaurant in the Lorraine region of France and Jonnie Boer’s restaurant De Librije in Zwolle, to name but two. In 2007, Bakker took part in the Dutch championships for young chefs, where he promptly claimed the top prize. Following that, he joined forces with Dutch star chef Sergio Herman. In the kitchen of the three-star Oud Sluis restaurant, Bakker worked his way up through every department, impressing the chef with his passion and crystal clear understanding of the flavours of seasonal and regional produce, while also demonstrating that he had what it takes to successfully implement his concept of relaxed haute cuisine dining on the North Sea coast, in spite of the fact that he was still only in his mid-twenties. MARTIN EBERT AND SYRCO BAKKAR AT RESTAURANT IKARUS KITCHEN

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SYRCO BAKKER

MARTIN KLEIN, SYRCO BAKKAR AND ECKART WITZIGMANN AT RESTAURANT IKARUS KITCHEN

At Pure C, Bakker impresses with his dishes that strike a balance between playfulness and complexity and which highlight the atmosphere and environment of the establishment with their easygoing appearance. He creates these dishes primarily using fish and seafood that his suppliers catch from the North Sea, right outside the restaurant’s front door, as well as large quantities of locallygrown herbs and vegetables. He combines these products with flavours from all over the world, with Indonesian being his favourite. This is not just a random personal preference by Bakker. His mother is originally from Indonesia and it is thanks to her that he came to love and appreciate the authentic taste and unique flavours of Indonesian cuisine while still a child.

growing in the dunes at Cadzand-Bad, before you glide through Syrco Bakker’s multi-course menu as if riding on a gentle North Sea wave. Flanked by a combination of seaweed and oysters from Zeeland, served with crisp rocket and sea buckthorn, the wave begins to swell with exquisitely seasoned white fish, Zeeland mussels, exotic bulgur wheat and powdered gold before reaching its peak with the main course – shoulder of Holstein beef seasoned with garlic and served with regional vegetables, sesame vinaigrette and Thai Beárnaise sauce.

If you want to experience the Pure C feeling in this country, the “Pure C Cookbook” provides recipes from Syrco Bakker and Sergio Herman, a large number of photos of the restaurant and its surrounding area and, most importantly of As you would expect, an evening spent at Pure C all, a CD containing classy electro music. Or you begins with a glass of “Hierbas de las dunas”, a could come to Salzburg in September 2016, where delicious digestive liqueur that combines sweet and Syrco Bakker will be spending a month as guest salty elements and incorporates no fewer than 18 chef at the Restaurant Ikarus, bringing the absolute different types of fresh herbs, plants and flowers lightness of existence to Hangar-7.

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NASI GORENG

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HANS NEUNER - OCEAN RESTAURANT, VILA VITA PARC, ALGARVE, PORTUGAL

Top chef Hans Neuner is a real Portuguese, although the cooking virtuoso is actually from Tyrol, the dishes he serves up at his Ocean restaurant on the Algarve are Portuguese through and through. His passion for organic ingredients from the region, and his simple but clever style have therefore not only earned him an excellent reputation among discerning gourmets, but two Michelin stars as well. “Bom proveito!” In light of Neuner’s past and his family environment, one could almost say he acquired his cooking talents in the cradle: he comes from a wellknown Austrian family that has been working in gastronomy for four generations. Thus, it was more than just coincidence that he began a chef’s apprenticeship at the gourmet restaurant Steigenberger Hotel Alpenkönig in Tyrol at the age of 15. Shortly after completing his apprenticeship in 1994, Neuner joined the Carlton hotel in St Moritz, Switzerland. After a spell in London, he moved to the luxury hotel The Fairmont Southampton Princess in the Bahamas, where he worked as Chef de Partie. In January 1998, Neuner then took to sea – as Chef de Partie on the luxury cruise liner MS Crystal Symphony.

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HANS NEUNER - OCEAN RESTAURANT, VILA VITA PARC, ALGARVE, PORTUGAL

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QUEIJO DE PORCO (PIG CHEESE)

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“Passion for locally sourced produce borders on an obsession. Neuner’s mantra of ‘keep it simple’ might initially seem at odds with the normal Michelin philosophy. However, while technically perfect and exacting, Neuner does allow the food to speak for itself...” At the end of the year, Neuner returned to terra firma, where he met the man who would become his most important mentor and have a massive influence on his culinary career: Karlheinz Hauser, Head Chef at the Adlon hotel in Berlin. Hauser identified a rare culinary talent in Neuner, which he nurtured intensively from that point on. Neuner worked alongside Hauser for nine years while occasionally enhancing his CV at the two-star restaurant Tristan on the island of Mallorca. In February 2004, Neuner was then appointed Head Chef at his mentor’s Michelin-starred restaurant Seven Seas inside Hamburg’s Hotel Süllberg. Three years later, at the age of 31, he was seduced by an offer from the five-star beach resort Vila Vita Parc on Portugal’s Atlantic coast. His mission: to help make the resort’s own gourmet restaurant Ocean even more successful. And he did so in impressive fashion: in 2009, he earned the restaurant its first Michelin star and was named Portugal’s Chef of the Year. But what is Neuner’s cooking philosophy that has made him one of Europe’s best chefs in such a short space of time? In a nutshell: keep it simple – and with local ingredients. For instance, Neuner places great importance on the freshness and quality of his ingredients and prefers to use produce from the local region: fish and seafood come from the Atlantic, the herbs come from the restaurant’s own garden, and the fruit is bought from local markets. The organic meat and vegetables originate from the restaurant’s own estate in Alentejo, as do some of the wines. WG September 2016 -

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HANS NEUNER - OCEAN RESTAURANT, VILA VITA PARC, ALGARVE, PORTUGAL

Cuisine in Motion The motion of the waves in the Ocean, of the seasons, of people and their heritage; the motion of tradition and history, of experience and knowledge; the motion of time, of the future...

With perfect technique, Neuner then transforms all ingredients into dishes that are subtle but never contrived and which provide a real taste of Portugal’s diversity and richness. Whether it’s his turbot with Olhão oysters, algae and Escargots or his moray eel with monkfish liver and smoke – the freshness and lightness of his creations are just as impressive as the view of the wild Atlantic Ocean from the dining room. The Michelin Guide’s inspectors could not escape this lure, either: in November 2011, they awarded the restaurant its second Michelin star.

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OCEAN RESTAURANT DINING

OCEAN RESTAURANT WINE ROOM

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HANS NEUNER - OCEAN RESTAURANT, VILA VITA PARC, ALGARVE, PORTUGAL

Hans Neuner, the two-star chef from Tyrol, has dedicated himself to the wonderful culinary treasures of Portugal. At his Ocean restaurant on the Algarve, he conjures up simple creations that are delightfully light and consist almost only of local ingredients. The result? A satisfied buzz among his guests, occasionally interrupted by a loud “Extraordinário!” WG magazine catches up with Hans Neuner… It’s interesting to learn how Chef’s find their passion for cooking and where they grew up. Tell me more about your formative years and how did you find your way into the culinary field to become the most soughtafter Chef! My family manages restaurants since more than 60 years. It was therefore always clear for me that I would become a Chef. Chef Hans Neuner tells us about his experience with his mentor Karlheinz Hauser… When I first met Karlheinz, I was an impetuous young cook. He taught me so many things (how to lead a team, how to deal with journalists, merchandise control, cost control, etc). Without him, I would not be where I am today.

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CHICKEN PIRI-PIRI, ALGARVIAN SALAD

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Chef Neuner’s cuisine is based on keeping it simple, creating a light modern, fresh with a strong focus on seafood from the Atlantic, and organic produce from Portugal – creative with intense flavours – he tells us how he brings this balance on a plate… My philosophy is to bring the product into the plate as genuine as possible. We grow many products ourselves. This year we will add a few thousand square metres to our garden and increase the number and diversity of products. The Algarve´s wonderful climate enables us to produce amazing quality produce. WG September 2016 -

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HANS NEUNER - OCEAN RESTAURANT, VILA VITA PARC, ALGARVE, PORTUGAL

In the Kitchen - The essence of our work is primarily the produce – it makes us ponder and stimulates our creativity. In the kitchen, everything revolves around it. Carefully selected, according to its seasonality and cultural identity, each product is treated with rigour and originality, maintaining a sacred respect for the integrity of its flavour and taste.

How would you describe your cuisine? Light Portuguese cuisine. Chef Neuner’s influences in the kitchen… “Seafood is a great part of the ingredients of our food. It is great to work with Portuguese seafood, as the quality is extraordinary and second to none. “ Chef Neuner’s opinion on the best recipe he has ever created… “ Crystallised red mullet with sea fennel and cucumber. It was probably this recipe that contributed in great part to our second Michelin star in 2011.”

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VIOLET SHRIMP

SKATE (ALGARVIAN RAIA FISH) ARTICHOKE AND CUTTLEFISH

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HANS NEUNER - OCEAN RESTAURANT, VILA VITA PARC, ALGARVE, PORTUGAL

The two Michelin-starred Ocean is an unforgettable gastronomic journey courtesy of Chef Hans Neuner. . Menus designed to showcase the finest local ingredients and produce, change with the seasons, but Neunerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s impeccably crafted culinary creations always surprise and delight diners...

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Chef Neuner shares the process he goes through to creating a new dish… Creating a new dish in a menu is a long process. Firstly, it takes us a few months to produce and source the ingredients. Then, the team discusses the best way to use them and the techniques. Only then does it go into development and after rigorous testing will it be included in the menu. Chef Neuner tells us the ingredients that inspires him… “At the moment, the lamprey (catfish) is one of the new fish we are experimenting. Chef Neuner adds the ingredients he likes working with…”Goose barnacles, they grow wildly on the rocks of our coast, particularly near Sagres in Faro. Their taste is so raw and natural.“ and the ingredient he finds challenging to work with…. “Probably green walnuts, as cooking with them was challenging, it was not edible, as they were too hard. Special cooking equipment… “My knives. Most of them are custom made by a friend of mine.” Produce, Creativity or Technique… “The Produce is the star of the kitchen. Technique and Creativity are the stage.” Guilty food pleasure… Pizza. Chef of the Year, Top 10 Chefs of Portugal - Chef Neuner tells us what motivates him… “I never think about prizes, they do not motivate me. Our customers do not forgive any mistakes, so we need to reach perfection. Besides, we can still reach higher goals. The most important thing is that we do not lose our childish curiosity about new things.” Being a chef is perceived as a glamorous profession, Chef Neuner gives his take on chefs who are first entering the field today… To cook is not as glamorous as people might think. It is requires long hours, it´s a hard journey, paved of sweat, sorrow and pain. SOLE PUMPKIN VIOLET PRAWN MELANGE BLANE

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GOURMET BURGER KITCHEN - DUBAI

GOURMET BURGER KITCHEN

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GOURMET BURGER KITCHEN - DUBAI

THE TAXI DRIVER

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GBK is all about the burger, fresh ingredients, and innovative taste combinations making it the best burgers in town. Almost everything served at GBK is made to order, so if you are looking at making your own burger – you are the right place, get your favorites from the menu and rest assured the rest is taken care of, since their burgers are at the heart of everything they do.

HOT SMOKED BBQ BLAZING SOMBRERO

It all started when three Kiwi guys including world-renowned chef Peter Gordon set up the first Gourmet Burger Kitchen in Battersea, South London, changing the UK burger scene forever and creating a burger restaurant like never before. They wanted to take the humble burger and treat it with the respect it had back home - with quality ingredients and fresh as a daisy. They had some simple rules - always serve the best burgers and have fun. Since then, they have spread the GBK love of food around the UK and now in the Middle East. Burgers may seem simple but they go to extraordinary lengths to make sure GBK is the freshest and the tastiest out there. Their beef patties are made with nothing but lovely 100% Angus beef simply seasoned and cooked fresh to order every time. Most of their burgers are served in a soft sesame seed bun or go healthy and swap your sesame bun to a whole wheat bun or a lettuce wrap or go bunless? The bunless option replaces the bun with a choice of different sides – homeslaw, green salad, grilled corn, mashed potatoes and gravy, chunky fries, grilled veggie skewer or blue cheese slaw or just mix and match your mini burgers, three different sliders – Hot Smoked BBQ, Blue Cheese or a Cheese Burger. Fresh homemade dipping sauces are made every day from scratch in each kitchen and they can tell the difference. From Sundays to Thursdays, Kids under 12 can enjoy a free kid’s meal – conditions apply. “The guests can make the difference”

GO BUNLESS

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ARMANI HOTEL DUBAI

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ARMANI HOTEL DUBAI

Armani Hotel raises curtains for a night at the Opera... Armani Hotel Dubai sets the stage for Dubai Operaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s opening season with a quartet of exclusive room packages especially designed to complement the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s newest entertainment destination. Stay for one night and enjoy dinner for two at Armani/Deli with our Bronze package, or at Armani/Ristorante with the Silver option. Upgrade your stay to a two-night Gold package for pre or post-show relaxation with a signature spa treatment and dinner at Armani/Deli; or, steal the show with our Platinum offer, which includes bespoke flowers from Armani/Fiori, handmade Dolci chocolates and duo of spa treatments.

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Tuscan cuisine at

ARMANI/RISTORANTE

Armani/Ristorante Unleash your inner chef and explore one of Italy’s most popular culinary destinations at our September master class as the flavours of Tuscany take centre stage. Join Chef Alessandro Salvatico and fellow Saturday foodies for a half-day session that will explore the 24th September, 2016 origins of ‘cucina povera’ with a three-course menu of fresh, high-quality ingredients from the Tuscan hills for a simple yet hearty expression of Italian cuisine. Cook up a regional feast of grilled octopus, ricottafilled ravioli with girolles, and a classic mackerel fillet served with mushed peas and lime extract, then enjoy the fruits of your labour over lunch.

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Make every night a girls night at Armani Why make it a ladies night when you can celebrate being a woman in Dubai every night of the week? Head to Armani Hotel Dubai from Monday to Thursday, to enjoy four tailor-made experiences in four exciting locations. Catch up with girlfriends on Mondays at Armani/Ristorante for a special two-course menu and three glasses of chilled bubbles; boogie away the mid-week blues at Arrmani/Privé every Tuesday with a trio of beverage vouchers and 50% off your favourite concoctions; head East to Armani/ Hashi each Wednesday with 50% off food and beverage from 5pm onwards; and coast into the weekend at Armani/ Lounge where Thursday nights are all about complimentary sparkling rosé and signature antipasti. ARRMANI/PRIVÉ

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East meets west at the

ARRMANI/DELI

Armani Brunch

ARRMANI/HASHI

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We bring the world to your weekend with a choice of two exclusive brunch experiences in one extraordinary location. Cross continents for a fresh take on Japanese culinary artistry at Armani/Hashi with its popular al fresco terrace overlooking The Dubai Fountain and resident DJ, or the chic European vibe of Armani/Deli, where stylish monochrome interiors complement a colourful regional menu.

WG MAGAZINE

Be happy at Hashi...

ARRMANI/HASHI

Say kanpai to the end of summer and the reopening of Armani/Hashi with a duo of new season promotions. Loosen your tie, kick off your high heels and enjoy an after-work drink out on our popular terrace at our nightly happy hour sessions overlooking the dancing Dubai Fountain. Alternatively, linger for longer with friends or colleagues over the all-new three-course Umai Den Sushi menu featuring salted edamame, a choice of miso or dobing soup, and Chef Jimmyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 12-piece sushi selection served with traditional accompaniments. Enjoy a trio of paired beverages for an authentic liquid complement to your meal.

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Italian Gastronomia, Pronto!

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ARRMANI/DELI

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Looking for gourmet lunchtime inspiration, but short on time? Head to Armani/Deli and check out the Pronto Lunch menu, which offers two courses fwith a signature sampling of Deli’s authentic Italian cuisine served rapido - or three courses. Take time out from your hectic day, pop in for a quick lunchtime treat, and let Deli’s enthusiastic chefs and tempting display of fresh breads, cheeses, charcuterie and Italian favourites fire up your taste buds – for lunch at your leisure or a flavour of Italy on the go.

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GRAND HYATT GOA

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THE WICKED LIQUID BRUNCH GRAND HYATT GOA Bringing to life the ultimate Sunday destination, Grand Hyatt Goa presents guests with more than 20 food and beverage bars, 50% off spa treatments and salon services, complimentary access to the fitness centre, sauna, steam room, whirlpool and swimming pool, plus live music and elaborate children’s activities. Offering guests a vivid world of experiences to choose from, the hotel’s Wicked Liquid brunch promises to be much more than just a regular brunch. Guests can begin the day at the award winning Shamana Spa and enjoy 50% off all spa and salon treatments, indulge in the sauna or steam room, or take a dip in the whirlpool. While adults treat themselves to the detox health bar or get their nails done, kids can have their own fun at Shamana Spa’s lifestyle studio, which turns into a kids’ club every Sunday.

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GRAND HYATT GOA

At 1:00 pm, head over to The Dining Room, where the resort’s culinary wizards present an extravagant spread of more than 20 food and beverage bars. Offerings include plenty of prawn and seafood options, oriental cuisine, roasted meats, sushi, pasta and barbecue. With items like grilled prawns, crispy crackling pork, eggs benedict, hand crafted thin crust pizzas, prawn balchao dosakebabs, specialty eggs, bacon wrapped prawn, chocolate fountain, crepes, chocolate chili cake, cake pops, New York cheesecake and everything sinful, the brunch urges you to over indulge. The liquid menu is as extensive as the food offering, with herb-infused spirits, detox drinks, health juices, cocktails, sparkling wine, coffee cocktails and a pour-your-own drink option. Guests are sure to be spoilt for choice. The cocktail bar is nothing short of extraordinary; with over 18 specially crafted cocktails there is a story behind every drink. Some of the must try include Banana Espresso Martini, Cucumber Basil Gin and Tonic, Aloe Vera Margarita, Watermelon Basil Mojito and Goan Mint Juleb. Making sure the brunch suits everybody’s need; kids are well taken care of with fun interactive and creative activities at Camp Hyatt - the kids club. The chefs have even curated a kids-mini buffet along with an exclusive kid’s cocktail bar that includes favorites such as marshmallow milkshakes, chocolate smoothies’ and fruit milkshakes. At Grand Hyatt Goa, every experience is spectacular, surprises abound and indulgence is a way of life. There are several ways to spend a Sunday, but none are as indulgent as the Wicked Liquid brunch at Grand Hyatt Goa. With seven hours of brunching, the new brunch is all about relaxation, over-indulgence, great food, live music and LivingGrand.

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NAVTEJ SAWHNEY - ARTHURâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S THEME, PUNE, INDIA

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Good food is one of the finest pleasures of life! 1997 saw the inception of Chef Navtej’s Arthur’s Theme at Koregaon Park, Pune – India. Passion in his heart, his hands led to the best culinary art. He believed in identifying the right ingredients for the quality product. Navtej Sawhney, winner of the “King Chef” title 2004, 2009 and 2010 trained in various countries and hotels around the world conceptualized this fine dining restaurant, to create a unique experience for the diners. The sole motivation was to set out as a restaurateur with a vision to provide his customers the best culinary experience every single time. Arthur’s Theme team comprises of trained professionals be it the serving staff or the chef’s, all of whom are working towards a goal of nor mere customer satisfaction, but customer delight. They continue to focus on our priorities of optimizing their menu, modernizing the customer experience and broadening accessibility to the brand within the framework of their plan. With a belief that these priorities align with their customers evolving needs, combined with a competitive advantage of convenience, distinguished product and service offering. WG September 2016 -

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NAVTEJ SAWHNEY - ARTHUR’S THEME, PUNE, INDIA

Arthur’s Theme Navtej’s philosophy… Cooking is about having awareness and sensitivity to the point that you feel a connection to the food and your customers. It is not only about satisfying yourself, but also satisfying other people. His goal is to achieve tasteful, simple food with innovative twists that create moments of delight for his diners. To do this he uses modern global cooking methods that focuses on preserving the integrity of fresh ingredients each season has to offer. Freshness is at the core of everything he produces. Success lies in adapting to meet new demands, but must be flexible, remaining true to his core beliefs and philosophy. The freshness of the product used, characterize the quality of the product, hence determining the extravagant cuisine.

A firm belief that drives the action at Arthur’s Theme. It has been this way since their inception in 1997, when the first Arthur’s Theme opened its doors. Arthur’s Theme is a restaurant that brings alive the romance of Europe. An array of appetizer, entrée, dessert and beverages to choose from. Every guest is welcomed and looked after by the hospitable staff. The chef prepares all the dishes to order and everyone can have their meal prepared as per their own personal preferences, guest can savor the wholesomeness of the meal, which is prepared fresh each day. Their dough, sauces, dressings and marinades are all prepared in-house and guaranteed to be made of the finest ingredients. The neatly laid tables at Arthur’s Theme is an open invitation to communications - with friends, family or simply with other guests. Conversation comes easy in good company having a wonderful dining experience…

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AYNA - HILTON CHENNAI

VEGETABLE GALOUTI

CHOWK KI TIKKI

PEACOCKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S EYE - AYNA

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PANEER LAZZAT Acapulco Sunshine

PANEER BHATTI MASALA

WG MAGAZINE

DAL AYNA

AYNA Inspired by the rich diversity of the country, the culinary team at Ayna, the pan-Indian fine dining restaurant at Hilton Chennai, has carefully crafted a menu that features cuisine from across India. The gastronomic traditions of the country have been inclusively captured in the selection of vegetarian and non-vegetarian items ranging from kebabs and chaats to biryanis and curries from the diverse regions of India. Prepared with reduced milk, dry fruits and tandoori spices, Ayna brings an original to the table with Mewe Aur Mawa Ki Seekh; among the famed delicacies from Kashmir. On the other hand, Punjab is represented by Kukkad Chaat that features crisp chicken cooked with tangy onion and powdered mango chutney served in a poppadom bowl. Connoisseurs of Hyderabadi cuisine can indulge in Paneer Lazzat, an entree consisting of baby spinach and cottage cheese dumplings filled with button mushrooms cooked in tomato gravy. Reminiscing of Goa? - There isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t a dish more evocative than Prawn Caldin prepared in coconut and tamarind curry. The delightful melange of cardamom and saffron with pound-rice slow-cooked in milk presents the signature dessert, Sakora Phirni. Whereas the unique combination of baked Indian yogurt with figs renders another classic - Anjeer Aur Dahi Ki Lauj. KABARGAH

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METROPOLITAN R E P O R T

a connoisseurâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s guide to the good life

www.metropolitanreport.com

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