April 2009 Women's Adventure Magazine

EDITOR’S CHOICE AWARDS 6S 0 +

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Big

Adventure

bike, run, hike, climb, and paddle

Beach on

a Budget 15 sand and

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Terry Tempest Williams

Finding Beauty in a Broken World

Emerging global destinations 10-minute Sports Makeover 5 STAGES OF MENTAL RECOVERY THRIVE IN THE WILD™ $4.99 US $6.99 CAN V7N1

PLUS:

Ann Curry in africa, anemia, parkour, lessons from horses, one woman’s sabbatical, whale research, heart health and so much more!

April 2009 Display Until August 1

www.womensadventuremagazine.com

Are You Too Competitive? Take This Quiz

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Features 44

Unlikely

Adventure Some of the world’s most beautiful places have been off-limits to tourists or simply too war-torn to visit safely.

Veteran travel writer Doug Schnitzpahn explores five emerging destinations that are open for adventure.

By Doug Schnitzpahn

50 to Live It

Sarah Murray’s got a great job, partner, and life. Ever the overachiever, she hit what most of us would call a midlife crisis at the tender age of 30.

She wanted to do more, be more.

After a decade of status quo, Sarah made the decision to take a yearlong sabbatical from the day-to-day and travel around the world. Heartfelt and sometimes painful, Sarah shares with WAM readers the events leading up to her departure.

By Sarah Murray

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Drum Roll Please:

The Editor’s Choice Awards (special section)

Before you head out to revamp your wicking wardrobe or upgrade to a new road bike, you’ll want to peruse and save this special section. Why? Over the past six months, Women’s Adventure has tested more than 1,000 products (many newly launched spring items) and selected the best of the best for this issue.

We’ve done the research. Now all you have to do is shop and play!

womensadventuremagazine.com womensadventuremagazine.com

COVER PHOTO: PATITUCCIPHOTO; INTERIOR: CORRYNN COCHRAN

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Departments

10. People, Places, & Things from Our Outdoor World

Travel: Ghana, Los Angeles, off-season beach bargains, airplane lodging, Crested Butte, and set-jetting Planet Earth: News from around the globe, green tips from Alison Gannett, solving world hunger, and a look at the lives of female athletes in Iran Fun Stuff: Fly-fishing for kids, competition quiz, get-out-ofwork excuses, notable quotes, cartoons, media reviews, and free stuff Inspiration and Information: Whale researcher Megan Jones, homeless running groups, heart health, the 10-minute sports makeover, danger stats, and footwear innovations [ LOVE ON THE ROCKS ]

30. DEET Perfume and the Perfect First Date

Skip dinner and a movie. You’ll learn a lot more about a future paramour (and yourself) by navigating the wilderness together.

38

Melissa Stockwell lost a leg in Baghdad but went on to represent her country again in the Beijing Paralympic Games. [ PSYCHOBABBLE ]

34. Good Grief: Emotional Recovery

Many athletes use sports as their therapists, lovers, and friends. Go ahead and grieve. When you blow a knee, you really have lost a loved one. [ SENSE OF PLACE ]

36. Finding Beauty in a Broken World

Terry Tempest Williams journeys to Rwanda to build a memorial with the survivors of the 1994 genocide.

32

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[ TRY THIS ]

38. The World Is Your Playground

The burgeoning sport of parkour is no longer the sole realm of skater dudes. Beyond looking cool as you scale walls in a single bound, you’ll also get one heck of a fullbody workout.

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p. 44

EDITOR’S CHOICE AWARDS S60 +

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Adventure

BIKE, RUN, HIKE, CLIMB, AND PADDLE

What you need to know about anemia and active women [ FULL ]

42. Taste Buds Bored? Treat Them to Something Exotic

Pass up the oh-so-average orange in favor of, say, a feijoa, and you’ll embark on new mouth-watering adventures.

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SURF STEALS

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Terry

[ WHOLE HEALTH ]

40. Become an Iron Woman

Beach on

a Budget

p. 36

Tempest Williams

FINDING BEAUTY IN A BROKEN WORLD

p. 25 p. 34

EMERGING GLOBAL DESTINATIONS

p. 40

10-MINUTE SPORTS MAKEOVER 5 STAGES OF MENTAL RECOVERY THRIVE IN THE WILD™

p. 38

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PLUS:

ANN CURRY IN AFRICA, ANEMIA, PARKOUR, LESSONS FROM HORSES, ONE WOMAN’S SABBATICAL, WHALE RESEARCH, HEART HEALTH AND SO MUCH MORE! .

April 2009 Display Until August 1

.

76. Musings 80. Editorial

ARE YOU TOO COMPETITIVE? TAKE THIS QUIZ

p. 24

p. 50

78. Spring Product Guide womensadventuremagazine.com

Clockwise from Left: CORRYNN COCHRAN; GAVIN DESNOYERS; JOHN KELLY/CONTRIBUTER/GETTY

[ ABLE-BODIED ]

32. Honorable Victory

Cam is wearing the Sweetest Tee and Sweetest Thing Capri -Skirt in Red Kiss

what’s under that skirt

Visit www.skirtsports.com to see for yourself!

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Editor’s Letter

Imagine the Grand Canyon as a war zone—or the beaches of Maui off-limits to surfers because of martial law. If Alaska were filled with land mines or Montana a sponsor of terrorist activity, would we ever know that there are places where mountains touch the sky? Perhaps the underlying themes of this issue are exploration and possibility. It’s true that there are times when Mother Nature keeps us from safely visiting, for example, an active volcano. Earthquakes and tsunamis and wildfires create their own travel moratoriums. But the sad truth is that we human beings are responsible for most of the danger and the devastation that we find in this world, and we do it in our futile attempts to possess it. If the planet is a gift, as it surely must be, it is a gift for all. When one race, creed, or power tries to lay claim to it, the price of admission is bloodshed. But we learn and grow, and change is possible.

In this issue we journey to five destinations that were once off-limits to Americans: Libya, Rwanda, Nicaragua, Myanmar, and Serbia. These places offer a chance to sift through an unlocked treasure chest of culture, architecture, and exotic terrain. And while we may never run out of places to discover in our own backyard, it seems we’ve been given a rare and fragile vacation invitation—the dates of which are subject to change without notice. How will our presence affect these destinations, when the people there have had little or no exposure to Americans and desperately need the influx of our tourist dollars? How will we expect these countries to change to suit our needs? Will our expectation for convenience and their need for money result in exploitation of ancient cultures and the depletion of natural resources? Or will we leave things as we find them? No doubt we’ll leave an impression. And who knows? The footprints we leave on foreign soil may just create a path to diplomacy, understanding, and, one day, healing. The invitation is there. The RSVP is up to us.

Michelle Theall

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Contributors

Krisan Christensen

Krisan Christensen’s childhood bedroom was always spotless. What started as a simple cleanup of one desk drawer would turn into hours of de-cluttering, decorating, arranging furniture, and reorganizing everything. “For me, it’s the process of cleaning—or designing—that I really enjoy,” says the 23-year-old California native, “but, when I’m done, I’d rather go outside to play than sit around and admire my work.” Krisan is making her debut as Art Director in this issue of Women’s Adventure. These days, she dedicates her meticulous organizational skills and patient caretaking to creating a special place within our pages for you to imagine your own adventures taking shape... then she plays outside.

Kristy Holland

Five-star hotel buffets in Bangkok, the jackfruit tree in her Bangladesh backyard, and countless hours wandering in Chinese markets gave Kristy Holland, Women’s Adventure’s newest assistant editor, a head start in hand-picking the fruity features in this month’s Full. “I love trying new things, and I’m not scared off by funky fragrances, textures, or colors,” says Kristy, “but I tried to keep it relatively mainstream for this month’s fruit intro.” Asked about the strangest food she’s ever eaten, Kristy responds, “It’s a toss-up between pig brains and lamb eyeballs.” Kristy’s writing has also appeared in Backpacker, Bicycling, Chicago, Key West, and Portland Monthly magazines.

Lisa Marshall

For 23 years Lisa Marshall has slipped on her running shoes and hit the trail almost daily, indulging an addiction she insists fuels creativity and keeps depression at bay. When she heard about a Philadelphia runner, Anne Mahlum, using running as a tool to get homeless people off the street, she couldn’t help but call her up. “She obviously shared the belief I’ve always held: that if everyone ran, it would change the world. But she was actually doing something about it,” says Lisa, whose profile of Anne Mahlum appears on page 29. Lisa is a marathoner and the mother of four, and she lives in Estes Park, Colorado. She writes for Natural Solutions, Delicious Living, and the Rocky Mountain News.

Doug Schnitzspahn Doug Schnitzspahn, author of this issue’s travel feature (page 44) is a world traveler, but he admits that the only time he has ever truly feared for his life was while working for the forest service in Montana during hunting season. A freelance writer and editor based in Boulder, Colorado, Doug studied at the University of Washington Rome Center in Italy and has traveled worldwide, from Iceland to Argentina. He has written for Outside, Men’s Journal, Islands, Big Sky Journal, Backpacker, Bike, and Skiing, and he currently edits the Colorado-based adventure and lifestyle magazine Elevation Outdoors. His work has been noted in The Best American Essays, and he is the recipient of an artist’s fellowship from the Colorado Council on the Arts.

womensadventuremagazine.com

Where’s the farthest place you’ve ever traveled?

EDITORIAL

Editor in Chief/ Creative Director Art Director Gear Editor/Web Editor in Chief

Michelle Theall Krisan Christensen Karina Evertsen

Cycling Editor/Web Director

Susan Hayse

Assistant Editor

Kristy Holland

Photo Editor/Photographer Copy Editor Contributors

Leningrad, Russia

Columbia, South America

Edit Interns

Dunedin, New Zealand

Corrynn Cochran

Athens, Greece

Elizabeth von Radics Terry Tempest Williams Alison Gannett, Ali Geiser, Elisabeth KwakHefferan, Jenn Mawn, Lisa Marshall, Molly Morgan, Nancy E. Roman, MacKenzie Ryan, Doug Schnitzspahn Mel Reek, Tara Kusumoto

SUBMISSIONS

For contributor’s guidelines, visit www.womensadventuremagazine.com/features/contributors-guidelines.

Editorial queries or submissions should be sent to edit@womensadbenturemagazine.com Photo queries should be sent to photos@womensadventuremagazine.com Women’s Adventure is always looking for new and innovative products for women.

For consideration, please send non-returnable samples to 1637 Pearl Street, Suite 201, Boulder, CO 80302-5447

PUBLISHING Publisher Travel/Tourism/Health & Beauty Ad Rep California/National Events Ad Rep

Karina Evertsen Alex Ballas

alex@womensadventuremagazine.com

Theresa Ellbogen

theresa@womensadventuremagazine.com

303.641.5525

Annapurna Sanctuary, Nepal

Northwest/Rockies/Automotive/ Food & Beverage Sales Director East/Midwest Ad Rep Sales Director

Melissa Hickey

melissa@womensadventuremagazine.com

303.588.4686

Susan Sheerin

sue@womensadventuremagazine.com

303.931.6057

Advertising Interns Office Manager Circulation & Marketing Director Director of Events Circulation & Marketing Intern

Brittany Bilderback, Marilyn Narula, Jenn Tadich Great Barrier Reef, Australia

Lynne Boyle Rick Rhinehart Joanna Laubscher

joanna@womensadventuremagazine.com

Rachael Greenberg

If you would like to carry Women’s Adventure or explore a distribution partnership, please e-mail us at rick@womensadventuremagazine.com SUBSCRIPTIONS

For magazine subscriptions, change of address, or missed issues, please contact Kable Fulfillment ddln@kable.com / 800 746 3910 or visit www.womensadventuremagazine.com/subscribe The opinions and advice expressed herein are exclusively those of the authors and are not representative of the publishing company or its members.

Copyright © 2009 by Big Earth Publishing. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without written permission is expressly prohibited.

Women’s Adventure makes a portion of its mailing list available from time to time to third parties. If you want to request exclusion from our promotional list, please contact us at ddln@kable.com Outdoor activities are inherently risky and participation can cause injury or loss of life. Please consult your doctor prior to beginning and workout program or sports activity, and seek out a qualified instructor. Big Earth Publishing will not be held responsible for your decision to thrive in the wild. Have fun!

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Reader’s Letters I’m the webmaster at www.skijumpingusa.com, and have worked closely with the women’s team for many years. I’ve often linked to individual articles, and have directed people to the compilation of article links on www.wsjusa.com, the Women’s Ski Jumping USA website (which is where I found your article). Your article is one of the best researched, best written, and most comprehensive that I have ever seen, and there sure have been a lot of positive articles about this situation and these incredible athletes.

As the women’s Continental Cup resumes next week, I’ll be doing coverage by midweek, and of course they’ll get a lot of visibility on my site throughout the season ... and by the time the Canadian courts take up the issue of their Olympic exclusion in late April, that will be the story on my website. I will be directing people to your site ... your story deserves to be read by anyone interested in our sport.

I hope you’ll keep an eye on the progress of the Ladies Continental Cup season, including the first appearance of women in the FIS World Championships on Feb 20, and keep an eye on the legal resolution in Canada. I have identical triplet granddaughters, age four, and as they get older and bump into issues of women’s equality and opportunities, I’d like to think this barrier will be on the trash-heap of history.

Once again, thank you ... and compliments to Kristin Bjornsen!

Ken Anderson

I just found your magazine today and I love it! I’ve read through a bunch of the articles on the website and I found them interesting and well written. I like to think of myself as an adventurous, outdoorsy woman and I’m glad to find a whole community like me.

I was wondering if you would consider writing an article, or calling for letters from readers about their decision whether or not to have children. I don’t have any, and I’m not sure I want to, but the subject has been on my mind lately. From what I’ve seen so far, your reader base seems like the intelligent, thoughtful kind of crowd who might be able to provide some real insight.

Jessica Callahan

WAM readers, send your comments on Jessica’s issue to edit@womensadventuremagazine.com

I’ve got a question regarding an article in your November/ December issue. The article I read was in the “Letters from the Divide” feature, and was written by Pam Houston.

Pam told us many juicy and alluring details about a phantom retreat. What I’d like to know is what retreat did she attend, where is it located, and who can I contact to get more details, just in case I might want to indulge in this wonderfully healthful gooeyness too?

Dale Payne

and if you go, may I recommend in particular, Val for lymphatic drainage, Jennifer for Thai massage, and, if you are game, Daryll for Jin Shin Jyutsu.

Pam Houston Send your letters to the Editor at: edit@womensadventuremagazine.com

CORRECTION WAM should have credited Amanda Bird for three photos she in “So You Think You’ve Got What It Takes to Make the U.S. Bobsled Team?” in our November/December issue, sorry Amanda!

Dale, That took place at Canyon Ranch in Tucson, Arizona,

Your Adventure

“

Standing on top of Kilimanjaro ...at 19,340 feet...Tanzania, Africa. We made the summit at six thirty in the morning after climbing 4,000 feet in a blizzard...so much for the dry season!

If you look closely, you will see my frozen hair poking out, and ice on Sarah’s eyelashes! Heck of a day!

“

From left to right: Sharon Kratze, Denver, CO (photographer) Sarah Nelson, Denver, CO Karen Cassini, Montreal, Canada

To see your photos published here send images from your own adventures. edit@womensadventuremagazine.com

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womensadventuremagazine.com

Click your way to adventure

On the Web

WIN THIS Want to get the rest of the story?

• • • • • • • • • •

South Padre Island turtle release Long-eared Jerboa footage Enter to win contests WAM staff takes parkour classes Wally’s polar bear letter Joanna’s 10-minute sports makeover (it’s hilarious!)

Shop in our the new online store Read book reviews All new events calendar “Doubt didn’t enter into the decision to jump on a buzkashi horse...” read the rest of Shannon’s story and submit your own

WATCH THIS Look for these icons and follow the clues to get even more great info from Women’s Adventure magazine! womensadventuremagazine.com

Ask WAM Q: Why don’t women compete in the Tour de France?

A: Sponsorship money is the simple, disappointing answer. There have been several attempts to create a women’s-specific Tour, which allows only female participants. The latest incarnation is La Grande Boucle Féminine Internationale (www. velo-feminin.com) which, in 2008, had seven stages and took up to six days.

Still, to call the event “the women’s Tour de France” would be misleading. The real Tour covers 2,200 miles over 21 stages. Could women handle such an event? You bet—though you’ll find some bloggers on cycling sites saying otherwise. Sadly, without major sponsors ponying up, women will have to settle for the lite version.

Q: NYC Marathon winner Paula Radcliffe trained up until she went into labor. I can’t imagine this was safe or advocated by her ob-gyn.

What’s the scoop?

A: The American College of Obstetricians and Gynecologists encourages some level of exercise throughout pregnancy— unless you’ve experienced bleeding, high blood pressure, or other health issues. And, as always, you should keep your health practitioners in the loop. If both you and the baby are healthy, the concern shifts to maintaining nutrition and fuel for both of you.

Logging excessive mileage means you’ll be struggling get adequate calories and low birth weight can result.

The key word for staying active during pregnancy is caution.

Poll

How do you feel about women’s specific gear?

1% It’s never as good as the top gear available

44% It depends on the sport some stuff is great, some isn’t

50% Love it-it’s about time we got stuff that fits

1% It’s a total marketing thing - gear is gear

(4%) Other answers....

“Love the fit, hate the colors and prints.

I detest pastels - especially pink” “I’m too tall for it to work for me” “Sometimes it can be good and will fit us better.

Sometimes the colors and styles are ugh...”

Free Stuff Win this spring outfit from Marmot!

Women’s Cascade Short Sleeve Quick-drying, comfortable and breathable: the Cascade is ideal for high intensity summer activities. Made with fabric from recycled materials.

Women’s Confession Capri The lightweight, silky feel of the Confession’s stretchy fabric combined with a practical design makes it a popular capri pant for all-around summer use, both indoors and outdoors.

Enter to win yours for free by going to womensadventuremagazine.com/marmot by April 30. The winner will be announced May 15.

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TRAVEL

[ FAR FLUNG ]

Volta, Ghana

Beyond its complex culture and friendly people, the Volta region offers a rich landscape including the Wli waterfalls (the highest in West Africa), the Tafi Atome monkey sanctuary (allowing complete interaction with the Mona monkeys), and the Agumatsa wildlife sanctuary with its fruit bats, butterflies, birds, and baboons. www.ghanaweb.com 10 WA OAPR’2009”

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DANA ROMANOFF

Dzifa Humali, (left) tends to her younger sister Eddie during a religious ceremony of the Ewe people in the Volta Region of Ghana in West Africa. Dzifa is undergoing an initiation ceremony where she’ll recieve her life sign, a symbol of her relationship with the world that provides instructions for her to live sucessfully. Each of the Afa religion’s 256 signs is connected to an inter-related set of plants and animals, stories and songs, dietary taboos, dangers, and strengths that will guide Dzifa’s descision making processes from now on.

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[ BUDGET TRAVEL ]

When the economy is in the dumper, the last thing you want to do is spend money. But it’s also the time you most need to escape. Face it: You’d give anything for a week or two away from it all. The perfect antidote to a flagging 401(k) is an affordable vacation. Spring is the right time to exploit off-season deals. Head to the beach before Memorial Day, and you’ll likely have the place all to yourself and save some serious coin.

Outer Banks, North Carolina Rent a home for a week or more, and experience oceanfront living at its best. Seven days in Nags Head costs just $500 to $600. Bookings are typically slow in April, so negotiate a lower weekly rate or a longer stay for a killer deal. Most homes are on the water or blocks from the beach.

Top Five Reasons to Go: 1

2

3 4 5

www.outerbanks.org

Run along the beach and watch dolphins play in the Atlantic.

Learn to hang glide from a sand dune at Jockey’s Ridge State Park.

Explore all five historic lighthouses.

Hike among wild horses at Corolla.

Bike the cycle-friendly 100 miles between Duck and Cape Hatteras.

San Juan Islands, Washington In spring the San Juan Islands promise misty beach walks, bald eagles, otters, and minimal traffic.

Whether you choose Lopez, Orcas, or San Juan Island, you’ll find plenty of adventure. Off-season hotel and bed-and-breakfast rates range from $65 to $150 per night. www.guidetosanjuans.com

Top Five Reasons to Go: 1 Kayak the fjords of Orcas Island.

1.

2 Visit the shark sanctuary on Lopez.

2.

3 Hike beneath lush waterfalls in 3.

Moran State Park.

4 Watch for whales in Friday Harbor 4. on San Juan Island.

5 Bike around Orcas and visit art 5. galleries, museums, and parks.

South Padre Island, Texas

www.sopadre.com

Top Five Reasons to Go: 1 Kiteboard at Laguna Madre Bay. 1.

2 Play with dolphins from your char2. ter boat.

3 Peek through binoculars at more 3. than 400 species of local birds.

4 Ride bareback on the beach.

4.

5 Search for nesting or hatching 5. sea turtles.

Money-saving Tip: Skip the hotel and camp next to the sea. Go to www.favoritefamilyvacations.com/beach-campingparks.html to explore great places to stay with the sand as your pillow and the moon for a nightlight. The site lists family-friendly locations on the Atlantic and Pacific oceans and the Gulf of Mexico.

Watch a sea turtle release on South Padre Island womensadventuremagazine.com

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iSTOCK

If you think of Padre Island as Girls Gone Wild over spring break, you’d be right. But hit the beach after the influx of debauchery-bound co-eds and you’ll find a serene paradise on the cheap. Rooms at beachside hotels start at $60 per night.

[ LUNCHTIME ADVENTURE ]

[ OUT THERE ]

Got one hour?

Head home and create a wildflower garden.

• After the last frost, till the soil and bury a blanket of seeds.

• Drench them in water.

• By the end of summer, you’ll have blooms galore with plenty to select for cuttings.

Join the Jet Set If you’re one of those people who can’t nod off easily at 30,000 feet, you can practice on a grounded plane by catching some Zs in the world’s first airplane-hotel, the Jumbo Hostel in Stockholm, Sweden. The stationary Boeing 747 sits next to the airport and boasts a cockpit suite with a sunroof and private bath, and smaller dorms for those who don’t mind tighter quarters.

Photo: JUMBO HOSTEL; Illustration: MONSEN ARKITEKTUR; iSTOCK

Rooms start at the peanuts-low rate of $40 USD. www.jumbohostel.com

Technology

$59.95

Introduce yourself to

www.tifosioptics.com 866.310.0996 (toll free)

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TRAVEL

[ TRAVEL TREND ]

[ URBAN ESCAPE ]

Los Angeles,

California

Set-jetting

If watching a movie like A River Runs Through It or Casino Royale spurs your wanderlust, you might leave the theater as a set-jetter. Set-jetters select their vacation destinations based on filming locations. The lush scenes in Lord of the Rings might seem otherworldly, but they’re really part of New Zealand. The ocean from which a Speedo-clad James Bond (Daniel Craig) emerges (to the fluttering hearts of many) is Nassau, Bahamas. Here are some other hot spots for outdoor enthusiasts—all the more reason to stay for the closing credits!

•

Lord of the Rings: The Fellowship of the Ring: Matamata, New Zealand, nestled at the base of the beautiful Kaimai ranges

•

Jurassic Park: Mount Wai’ale’ale, the wettest spot on earth, in Kauai, Hawaii

•

A River Runs Through It: Several Montana locations including Paradise Valley on the Yellow- stone River, south of Bozeman on the Gallatin River, and south of Big Timber on the Boulder River

•

The River Wild: Stretches of southern Oregon’s wild and scenic Rogue River as well as several locations in Montana, including the middle fork of the Flathead River near Kalispell and the Kootenai River near Libby

•

Legends of the Fall: Ghost River, Alberta, Canada

•

Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade: City of Petra in the Edom Mountains of southwest Jordan, accessible by foot or camel

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4,200 acres and 53 miles of trails. Parking is free and easily accessible from both the Golden State and Ventura freeways. Trek from the Griffith Observatory and enjoy Oscar-winning views of downtown L.A.

Just off Studio City’s Laurel Canyon Boulevard is one of the L.A.’s bestkept hiking secrets: Wilacre Park. The 3-mile loop rewards you with a sweeping San Fernando Valley view.

Parking is limited, costs $1, and fills up quickly on weekends.

After a morning adventure, stop at Burbank’s year-round Saturday farmers’ market. The corners of Third Street and Orange Grove Avenue host artisan baked goods, local honeys, and gourmand-worthy preserves between 8 a.m. and 1 p.m. Stop at the Gourmet Tamale Factory for veggie, chicken, and beef tamales that are worth every penny of their $4 price.

-Mel Reeck

www.LAmountains.com

womensadventuremagazine.com

JOHN KELLY/CONTRIBUTOR/GETTY/; iSTOCK

Leave L.A.’s platinum price tag untouched.

Instead nurse your economic woes with these stimulus-budget outdoor adventures in the City of Angels.

Griffith Park offers

[ TOWN SPOTLIGHT ]

Crested Butte, CO Population: 1,635 Elevation: 8,885 feet Town motto: Worth Getting To Access: Gunnison/Crested Butte Airport, 30 miles outside of town (4.5 scenic hours from Denver) Looking for the perfect sampling of raw beauty, sick singletrack, family-friendly activities, good eats, and smalltown charm? In Crested Butte dogs wander the streets freely and locals exude a contagious energy. They know how good they have it and are happy to share the love.

1 3

4

2

1. Worthy Trail: 401

5

After shoulder season hit the 401 trail on your mountain bike.

4. Local Joe: Camp 4 Coffee 2. Kid-friendly Eats: Secret Stash This 1970s’ style momand-pop pizza joint is a true gem tucked away from the hubbub.

Named after Yosemite’s well-known camp #4 and founded by a climber, this coffee shop offers locally roasted beans along with the real flavor of the town.

iSTOCK

3. Après Sport: The Eldo The welcome sign reads “A Sunny Place for Shady People,” pointing to the joyous variety of microbrews as well as the rough-hewn spirit of one of the coolest dives in the state.

5. Best Book: Crested Butte Stories…Through My Lens by Sandra Cortner (Wild Rose Press, 2006) Skip the guidebooks and get to know the soul of the town through this book’s stunning images and narrative.

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PLANET EARTH

[ ACTION ]

Feeding Dreams THE ORIGINAL

Sport Cap 2.0 s 1UIET VALVE DESIGN s 8 mOW s !TTACHMENT LOOP s "0! &REE

NEW 2009 !

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The WFP’s Fill the Cup campaign helps students reach new heights

Deep in the places many of us go to find adventure—Tanzania, to climb Mount Kilimanjaro; Nepal, to trek the Himalayas; the Caribbean, to bask in the sun— there’s a hidden problem: Hunger.

Gnawing at nearly 1 billion people around the world, hunger is robbing huge swaths of the next generation’s potential. Without a base level of calories, children’s brains and bodies will never fully develop. They’re more prone to disease, they’re less likely to attend school, and if they do, hunger prevents them from learning. Climbing a mountain for fun isn’t even a pipe dream.

It’s a contrast that’s hard to process in our well-developed country: While 1 billion people are overweight, nearly another billion go to bed hungry each night. The breadth and depth of this problem can begin to overwhelm, but there is a simple solution. A piece that we can break off and chew: providing a cup of porridge for the 59 million children who attend school hungry every day.

School life in the world’s toughest places is pretty bare bones. Groups of children study under trees, often without pencils or paper. A warm cup of food can make all the difference in their education. First, it increases the odds that children will show up to school in the first place. Second, a full stomach allows them to concentrate better, especially after a long walk— sometimes many miles—to school.

The kind of nutritional boost provided by the WFP’s Fill the Cup campaign

has contributed to the success story of Nimdoma Sherpa. Nimdoma received school meals from WFP as a child in Nepal and last year joined the largest team of all-Nepali women to climb Mount Everest. She summited the 29,029-foot peak on May 24th. Like millions of others nourished in school, Nimdoma is now a healthy adult, taking on some of earth’s greatest challenges.

That simple school meal—full of nutrition and potential—is why we have launched Fill the Cup as a global campaign. The small, symbolic red cup is a powerful illustration of just how little it takes to solve world hunger. Filling that cup with porridge, beans, or rice costs just 25 cents a day. Feeding all of the world’s hungry school children, 59 million of them, would cost just $3 billion a year; a fraction compared to the trillions of dollars that governments are now spending to rescue the global financial system.

Solving hunger starts with one child, and one meal. With just a little help, millions of children can fulfill their greatest dreams.

To make a donation to WFP’s Fill the Cup campaign, please go to www.wfp.org

womensadventuremagazine.com

james giambrone; PEMBA DORJE SHERPA

Nancy E. Roman, Director of Public Policy, Communications and Private Partnerships Division at the World Food Programme (WFP) serves up this simple solution to tackling world hunger.

[ PRO/CON ]

What’s a Girl to Doo? Open space is for everyone, including Fido. But when the pup does his business off-leash, should you tramp off-trail to clean up after him?

YES

Definitely if the offending pile is left on the trail or near it, remove it. No one likes smelling or stepping in it, so be a good citizen. However, even if the dog heads off-trail, you still need to pick up after him—every time. Dogs eat processed foods, and their waste creates nitrogen-rich soil that kills off native plants and encourages invasive weeds. Plus, excrement left near streams and rivers adds to water source bacterial pollution.

The bottom line: Keep your dog under voice and sight control. Remove waste when it’s on or near the trail.

Otherwise, leave it.

The bottom line: Bring a biodegradable baggie and practice Leave No Trace ethics.

Got an opinion?

Weigh in on the debate at the womensadventuremagazine.com forum pages.

60-day Challenge Some 60 million plastic bottles are thrown out in the United States every day. Fewer than 1 percent are recycled, and most bottles will never break down in the landfill. Want to make a dent in the problem and do something? Swear yourself off bottled water.

[ EARTH SPECIES ]

e

ed ar

J erb o a

g-

[ GANNETT’S GREEN TIPS ]

Lo n

Clockwise: CORRYNN COCHRAN; THEO ALLOFS/GETTY; CORRYNN COCHRAN

NO

First of all, dog waste biodegrades.

No one picks up after the coyotes and deer. And you’ll do more harm than good, stomping around trying to find where your dog went, crushing vegetation along the way.

If everyone went off-trail to pick up after their pets, they’d erode most of the open space we enjoy.

How to do it: •

•

•

•

Buy a metal refillable bottle, such as a SIGG or Klean Kanteen. You’ll avoid estrogen-mimicking chemicals in the typical clear plastic refillable bottles.

Use filtered water at the soda machine. Skip the to-go cup by bringing your own.

If you hate the tap water at home, pick up a good replaceable water filter.

Traveling abroad, carry a SteriPen.

Environmental consultant and world-champion skier Alison Gannett is WAM’s green guru.Take the challenge and share your successes and suggestions on our Green Challenge forum at womensadventuremagazine.com.

Found in the deserts of Mongolia and China, the “Mickey Mouse of the desert” is a rodent with long, batlike ears and a tail longer than three lengths of its body.

Check out a video of the Long-eared Jerboa womensadventuremagazine.com

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PLANET EARTH

[ AROUND THE WORLD ]

Fighting to Compete

Sara training in Iran prior to Beijing

©2009 General Mills

Iranian tae kwon do champion Sara Khoshjamal literally fought her way to Beijing in 2008, but the side-kicks and jabs thrown by the 20-year-old are only part of a larger battle she fights every day as a female athlete in Iran. Sara is one of only a handful of world-class competitors from the conservative Islamic nation.

Solmaz Sharif, editor of Shirzanan, the first magazine dedicated to Iranian female athletes, estimates that fewer than 1 million—less than 2 percent—of Iranian women participate in sports.

“There are many limitations on women athletes in a fundamental Muslim country,” says Solmaz before describing the barriers: lack of government funding, limited access to equipment, odd hours for women-only training facilities, negative attitudes of conservatives, and, perhaps the most obvious, the hijab. The traditional, full-length dress is required attire for Iranian women, and the most popular female sports are ones in which the whole-body covering isn’t a major impediment to success: archery, shooting, judo, tae kwon do, volleyball, rowing, hiking, and skiing.

“Despite the difficulties they face, they’re not

giving up, and they’re fighting for their rights,” says Solmaz. Though Iranian women once participated in sporting events in standard uniforms, that right was stripped in a pro-Islamic revolution nearly 30 years ago. Today the presence of hijabwearing role models—such as Sara Koshjamal; Farkhondeh Sadegh and Labeh Keshavarz, the first Muslim women to summit Mount Everest; and Faezeh Hashemi, former vice president of Iran’s National Olympic Committee who founded the Islamic Countries’ Women Sports Solidarity Games in 1993—are chipping away at the fundamentalism that has hindered women’s participation.

“It’s taken time to convince [the government] that women’s sports aren’t dangerous for Islam,” says Solmaz, “and we have been fighting silently for these changes.” In December Iran’s Olympic committee announced that it will be sending as many as 150 women to participate in the Asian Games 2010 in Guangzhou, China, proof that the tiny victories—and defeats—of Iran’s female athletes are changing their world.

Learn more at www.shirzanan.net

VAHID SALEMI/ASSOCIATED PRESS

Iranian women are kicking their way into world-class competition

T:16

6.75�

[ RECYCLE THIS ]

from magazine cover 1. Fold inward so the top edges meet in the middle

4. Fold over the four tabs shown above.

5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.

2. Fold in half twice, first fold the long ends together, then the short ends.

3. Unfold everything, cut out center piece and small notches along both edges.

6. Tuck the small outer tab into the pocket created by the inner tab, then tuck the inner tab into the new pocket you just created to close off the ends of your wallet.

Repeat on other side.

to handy wallet

New 100% Natural Nature Valley Chewy Trail Mix Dark Chocolate & Nut. Where’s yours?

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FUN STUFF

[ GOTTA HAVE ]

Bhakti Chai

The Sanskrit origin of Bhakti means “devotion through social action.”

All we know is this chai is like no other we’ve tasted. Cardamom, ginger, and masala spices create distinct yet subtle flavors in this organic fairtrade tea. A kick of fire adds complexity to the sweetness, making the chai thoughtful and layered to the palate. Mix with milk and enjoy hot or cold. Brewed in Boulder. $10. www.bhaktichai.com

Chunks O’ Fruti Frozen Fruit Bars Take the guesswork out of snacking with a 100 percent natural treat.

The number one ingredient in this tasty dessert is fruit—a claim that’s tough for any other juice bar or ice cream to make. WAM says, “Try the mango!” Ask for Chunks O’ Fruti bars in your local grocery or go to their website. $1.50. www.nfc-fruti.com.

Climate Change Chocolate

[ EVOLUTION ]

Of the Wristwatch 1868

The First Bejeweled beauty for a Hungaian Countess

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1933

Disney’s Mickey Mouse Rotating arms are collector’s item

1970s

1988

Casio Digital

Rolex Sea Dwellers Holds the deepdiving watch record: 1,751 feet.

Making a retro comeback in 2009

2007

iPhone Who wears a wristwatch any more?

2008

Garmin Forerunner 301 Monitors it all: heart rate, coordinates calorie burn, speed.

Oh yeah, time.

womensadventuremagazine.com

CORRYNN COCHRAN; Illustrations: KRISAN CHRISTENSEN

Bloomsberry & Co. introduces a tasty solution to global warming just in time for Easter (the holiday of renewal, rebirth, and of course chocolate). Save the world and purchase carbon offsets one bar at a time. The inside wrapper gives 15 tips for reducing your own environmental impact; and because the treats themselves have been produced responsibly, you won’t have to feel guilty about overindulging—even though they’re quite sinfully good. Available at Whole Foods Markets. $5. www.climatechocolate.com

[ MEDIA ROOM ]

Great Races, Incredible Places: 100+ Fantastic Runs Around the World by Kimi Puntillo From Antarctica to Switzerland, Kimi Puntillo’s March book debut offers a sampling of training tips and cultural cues for 57 destination races across the United States and around the world. “New, remarkable racecourses transformed my soles,” says Kimi, who started running at age 30 and now holds the Guinness women’s record for running marathons on all seven continents. With the aim to inspire runners of all levels—race distances range from 1 to 197 miles—she offers hard-won advice about avoiding the danger inherent in Washington’s Bare Buns Fun Run (bring sunscreen and powder) and about making the most of the mile-23 oyster bar at France’s Marathon du Médoc. Ready. Set. Go. Bantam, 2009; $16.

Girl on the Rocks: A Woman’s Guide to Climbing with Strength, Grace, and Courage by Katie Brown We think this book is a great choice for young girls who want to learn to rock-climb. In the introduction Katie Brown thinks back to her initial tiptoe into the sport that’s made her famous: “I started climbing when I was 13 in a climbing gym full of boys…Eventually, I got used to the guys and began participating…In turn, the guys got used to the tiny girl who was always hanging around watching.” Katie takes readers step by step into the sport and spends as much time addressing the mental aspects of climbing as the physical ones. The text is peppered with interviews and photos (by Ben Moon), which further illustrate the power, grace, and agelessness of women on the rock. Falcon, 2008; $20.

Try to keep a dry eye. Kelly Corrigan reads from her memoir, The Middle Place (Voice, 2008; $15) about the sustaining, inspiring, and irreplaceable friendships among women. www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_4qwVLqt9Q

CORRYNN COCHRAN; iSTOCK

[ HAHA, LOL, ROTFL ]

© 2008 Tundra Comics [ GET OUT OF WORK EXCUSE ]

Need a little time off? We’ve got you covered.

One hour: Forgot to spring forward on March 8 Half day: Mudslide blocked highway Full day:Mistook MiraLAX for protein powder

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FUN STUFF

[ QUIZ ]

Are You Too Competitive?

Take this quiz to find out if your competitive nature has friends and family cheering for you or leaving you in world-record time.

Cure because: a) What better motivation than a fundraiser, workout, and pink T-shirt rolled into one? b) My 8-minute mile puts me ahead of the pink pom-pom crowd. c) My best friend and walking partner is a cancer survivor.

2

My Olympic dreams: a) Involve Michael Phelps and a poolside cocktail. b) Ended after four years of college softball and a torn rotator cuff. c) Are for London 2012. If Dara Torres can medal at 41, I can too.

3

It’s Girl Scout cookie season, and there’s a knock at the door. I: a) Spring for two boxes each of Thin Mints and Samoas. Yum. b) Say no. Even one Trefoil will lower my mile time by half a second. c) Hesitate before deciding that the world is a better place when I’ve devoured a box of Do-Si-Dos.

4

My friends and I decide to take terrain park snowboarding lessons, I: a) Try the wide box rail and the small jumps and laugh like crazy. I skip the halfpipe. b) Watch and cheer from a snowbank. Riding a metal rail looks painful. c) Go big the entire time and refuse to go to the ER when I’ve cracked my tailbone.

5

Mountain biking with my significant other is always: a) Grueling. I pick a hard route and the last one to the car buys dinner. b) Fun. We both love winding singletrack and peak-top photo ops. c) Mellow. The birds and the bees and the flowers and the trees.

6

I’m drooling over the hunky kayak shop salesman, but my landlubber best friend is flirting up a storm. I: a) Ask if he has any whitewaterloving friends. A double date on the river would be fun.

b) Let her borrow my pen so she can get his number. c) Convince my pal he’s all wet and brag to him about the kick-flip I pulled last weekend.

7

On my morning 3-mile run, I catch up to a guy who’s been running ahead of me: a) I pretend I’m going for the gold and sprint past him to make a solid statement. b) I keep my pace and say good morning when I go by. c) I cut my speed. Why speed by and make him feel bad?

8

Waiting my turn at the climbing gym, I’m likely to be: a) Singing along with Michael Franti and Spearhead: “I know, one thing, that I love you.” b) Swearing under my breath that all the 5.13+ routes have been taken. I’m here to train. c) Studying the route so I can get over the second roof.

9

Just shy of Denali’s summit, your rope team stops amid 30 mph winds to reassess, you: a) Fight for the final push. You’ll go it alone if that’s what it takes to hit 20,320 feet. b) Catch your breath while the group dukes it out over the technicalities. c) Take a long look at the mountain before spilling your altitude-sick guts to your guide.

10

You won a downhill ski trip with Lindsey Vonn, and you’re stoked to: a) Get World Cup–worthy pointers to increase your speed and conquer your fear. b) Pass her on the hill and show off a little super-G styling of your own.

She’s not as fast as you expeected. c) Chat her up about her move from Minnesota to mountain towns around the world.

If you scored: 10–17: You’re the happy-go-lucky, go-with-the-flow gal who

makes everyone feel good about themselves. Just remember to take care of yourself, too. A healthy dose of competitive ambition could add some spice to your routine and help motivate you to seek out adventure and even improve your fitness level. Asserting yourself on occasion won’t compromise relationships.

18–25: You know that the key to a good win is working hard

for it and staying motivated to improve your own performance without sacrificing friendships or a good time. You’ve mastered the art of putting up a good fight when it counts but also encouraging the success of those around you.

26–30:

Laila Ali has nothing on you—and you’d probably knock her out if she tried to prove otherwise. Being such a cutthroat can slice into relationships and choke budding camaraderie among competitors. Keep in mind that life offers bigger victories than being the first to cross the finish line.

Add up your points:

1) a. 2, b. 3, c. 1; 2) a. 1, b. 2, c. 3; 3) a. 1, b. 3, c. 2; 4) a. 2, b. 1, c. 3; 5) a. 3, b. 2, c. 1; 6) a. 2, b. 1, c. 3; 7) a. 3, b. 2, c. 1; 8) a. 1, b. 3, c. 2; 9) a. 3, b. 2, c. 1; 10) a. 2, b. 3, c. 1.

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womensadventuremagazine.com

EASTNINE INC/GETTY

1 I’m signed up to Race for the

[ OVERHEARD ]

[ WORDSWORTH ]

“I miss my family. And also warm showers. And I could really use a stiff drink.”

Climbing Jargon

- Ann Curry, 52, from the Today Show, climbing Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania

bomb•er (bŏm′er) 1. noun. A combat aircraft designed to drop bombs.

2. noun. A stylish leather jacket for pilots and posers. 3. noun. A 100 percent solid handhold, anchor, or protection placement in the sport of climbing.

RAY FARMER/ASSOCIATED PRESS; MICHELLE THEALL

Fly-fishing has been a bonding activity for parents and children for ages. And when your child is on the river, she won’t just be getting closer to you, she’ll be building a relationship with nature that could improve her mental and physical health. According to a study by the Human-Environment Research Lab at the University of Illinois, “Children function better than usual after activities in green settings. The ‘greener’ a child’s play area, the less severe his or her attention deficit symptoms.” Plus, fishing teaches the value of patience and persistence along with great eye/hand coordination.

Once your child experiences the joys of fly-fishing and being outside and so fully submerged in nature, you won’t be able to keep her indoors.

-Molly Morgan

Resources to get your kids started:

• Check out Trout Unlimited (www.tu.org) or the Federation of Fly Fishers (www. fedflyfishers.org). Both have chapters in all 50 states and many offer free classes for young people.

• Contact your local department of fish and wildlife.

• Pick up one of these fly-fishing books created specifically for children (and a few written by children): •

Quick Tips for Getting Started: • Kids can start as soon as they are able to hold a fly rod, but you’ll need to do the casting and help land the fish for the younger ones at first.

• Study up on ethical catch-and-release principles and teach them to your child.

• De-barb the hooks to avoid injuries to your child (and the fish).

• Ponds and small lakes are great for learning to fly-fish. They have lots of cooperative fish without dangerous currents.

• There’s no need to buy rods made specifically for kids; you can buy short, lightweight ones that work just fine and are generally more durable than the kids’ models.

• Keep the trips short—under an hour is a good rule of thumb.

• Let the kids bring friends when they are learning.

That way they will always have fishing buddies.

A Kid’s Guide to Flyfishing: It’s More than Catching Fish (Johnson Books, 2006; $16) and A Kid’s Guide to Fly Tying (Johnson Books, 2008; $16) both by Tyler Befus— junior fly-fishing/tying champion

•

River Girls: Fly Fishing for Young Women by Cecilia “Pudge” Kleinkauf (Spring Creek Press, 2006; $10)—a book written by a real woman of the river

•

The Olive series of picture books by Keith Werner written from the point of view of a fly (Johnson Books, 2009; $12.95)

edg•ing (ĕj′ĭng) 1. noun.

Something forming a border around something else. 2. verb. Pulling up weeds along a sidewalk to create a neat path. 3. verb. Placing the toe of one’s climbing shoe on a very narrow ledge or nub and trusting one’s full weight on it. smear (smîr) 1. noun. (var. schmear) Cream cheese spread on a bagel. 2. verb. Beating the opposing team by numerous points. 3. verb Using the flat sole of one’s climbing shoe to gain traction. ă ch

pat/ā pay/âr church/d

care/ä deed/ĕ

bib/ be/

father/b pet/ē

[ WHAT IN THE WORLD? ] Test yourself by identifying the image below.

ANSWER: Spawning Brook Trout, Estes Park, CO

[ KIDS CORNER ]

Any Fish You Wish

bomber │ smear

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INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

[ DREAM JOB ]

Meet Meagan Jones Age: 42 (born the same year whales were protected in the north Pacific) Stomping ground: Maui— North Shore, up-country, and the west side Job: Whale researcher and executive director of Whale Trust (www.whaletrust.org)

Research permits allow Meagan and her team up-close access to Hawaii’s migrating whales (NMFS permit 753-1599)

How did you get involved in whale research, and to Hawaii?

I was studying kids for a psychology master’s degree in Texas—totally landlocked—and my professor wanted to compare the way kids and dolphins process information. He asked me to go to Hawaii to learn as much as I could about dolphins to help with his research. I wrote my master’s thesis about dolphin cognition, and ever since then I’ve been involved in environmental education and researching whales.

What qualities do you have that make you a good researcher and nonprofit director?

As a researcher you have to be organized and detail oriented, and patience is definitely required. When you’re studying animals in the wild, you also do a lot of waiting. My job is really varied, so I would say my flexibility and adaptability are important, too—and my ability to communicate, not just from a scientific perspective but also to communicate something meaningful about my research to both kids and adults.

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What’s a typical day at work?

My field season is in the winter, and my summer and fall are geared toward data analysis, writing, and/or running Whale Trust. When the whales are here—January through April— most of my days are out on the water in a boat about the size of a whale’s head, finding a group and staying with them as long as possible, trying to figure out what is a day in the life of a whale. Most days I wear a lot of different hats, so I might also be talking to the press, trying to get a grant, writing curriculum, or teaching kids. We also run a three-day education event about whales: Whale Quest Kapalua.

Do you have career goals that help you stay satisfied with work?

For me personally, a big goal is to finish my PhD. I’m trying to finish by August of this year,

and I’ve been working on it for seven years.

For Whale Trust, we’re looking to connect researchers with the community, bridging the gap between research and education. We’re hoping to develop a research and education center, where we can team up students, researchers, and environmental educators with policymakers.

What’s the most surprising thing about your work with whales?

People think that because I live in Hawaii and study whales, there’s no stress to my job. People imagine a glamorous life, but the reality is that I often work very hard for very little money. Although, the reason I do it is that there’s nothing I’d rather be doing than listening to a whale singing under my boat.

womensadventuremagazine.com

FLIP NICKLIN/MINDEN PICTURES/WHALE TRUST

What began as a master degree’s research project about dolphin cognition turned into a 20-plus-year career for whale researcher Meagan Jones, who started her PhD research and her nonprofit organization, Whale Trust, in 2001. “It wasn’t the smartest thing to begin both at the same time,” she says, laughing. It’s her busy season on the water, but Meagan took some time to tell WAM what she loves about her job.

[ RED CARPET ]

10-minute Sports Makeover Women’s Adventure staffer Joanna Laubscher, 30, didn’t know what she was getting into when she agreed to be “made over” by the Outdoor Divas retail shop in Boulder, CO. She arrived in her typical running attire and was soon “Pretty Woman-ed” with the most stylish and technical clothes, shoes, and accessories on the market. “Clearly, I need lots of help,” Joanna said as storeowner Kim Walker and Outdoor Divas Marketing Director Marilyn McDonald catered to her.

Here’s what the experts had to say about Joanna’s look before and after:

Supportive sports bra.

No eye protection

Brooks insulated vest: keeps the core toasty.

Cotton shirt

Sugoi running top hoody: wicks away sweat, perfect for keeping ears and head warm.

Regular daily bra

Zeal Polarized sunglasses: protect eyes from UV rays and debris; lightweight.

CWX tights: promote circulation and secure the knees; compression fights fatigue.

Superfeet insoles: provide additional cushioning and arch support.

Hole in pants.

Ventilation?

Outdoor Divas wicking socks.

Pearl Izumi water-resistant running shoes.

Dress socks.

Want to win your own makeover? Enter online at womensadventuremagazine.com with a photo or video clip of you in your worst sports attire—whatever your sport!

Shoes with too many miles on them.

(before)

6

KRISAN CHRISTENSEN

[ BY THE NUMBERS ]

(after)

Calm down, ‘fraidy cats

To see the full video of Joanna’s makeover, go to: womensadventuremagazine.com

62 Danger 7.3 7 4.5 25 +5.2 Danger 4 0.0002 People injured annually by mountain lions

Average annual U.S. lightningstrike fatalities

million

Average annual cloud-to-ground lighting strikes in the U.S.

Odds of being struck by lightning in an 80-year lifetime

eighty-five Percentage of head-injury cycling fatalities that could be million prevented by wearing a helmet American women who participate in outdoor Cycling injuries per 1 million activities cycling miles on the road

Years difference in life expectancy for women versus men

Number of top 10 leading causes of death for which obesity is a risk factor

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INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

[ NEWS ]

Moving to Switzerland

What this law will do: Create in influx of Jack Russell and Labradoodle refugees into Lucerne, looking for green cards.

Taking it a step further, the Swiss government’s Federal Ethics Committee on Non-human Biotechnology concluded that plants also have rights and must be treated appropriately. The panel stated that “vegetation has an inherent value,” that “it is immoral to arbitrarily harm plants,” and that “living organisms should be considered morally for their own sake because they are alive.”

What this means: A farmer may mow his field but not decapitate the blooms off flowers on his walk home.

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The Real Bionic Woman In 2004 Claudia Mitchell lost her left arm in a motorcycle accident. Like many amputees, she was fitted with a prosthesis. Because she’d lost her limb up to her shoulder, however, she lacked the necessary muscle groups to control the prosthetic arm. Enter Todd Kuiken, MD, PhD, of the Rehabilitation Institute of Chicago. Essentially, Dr. Kuiken and his team “rewired” Claudia during a six-hour surgery called targeted reinnervation. Surgeons moved the injured nerves from Claudia’s shoulder to her chest, where they could be reawakened from the active nerve impulses there. Now when Claudia thinks about gripping an item with her left hand, she inadvertently sends signals to the reinvigorated nerves in her chest. Her robotic arm picks up the electric impulses, decodes them, and, presto, Claudia can open jars and fold laundry again. Just like anyone else, her thoughts control motion, without retraining. Perhaps even more remarkable, surgeons moved sensory nerves along with motor nerves. Now when hot water or a hand touches Claudia’s chest, she can feel it in her missing limb. Learn more about the process at www.ric.org/research/centers/necal/index.aspx.

What this means: Hope for all who are immobilized by nerve damage and, perhaps down the road, neuromuscular diseases too.

Fungus Amongus Researchers in Patagonia have discovered a fungus that might just replace gasoline. The fungus fuel, called “myco-diesel,” grows inside ancient ulmo trees and produces many of the ingredients normally associated with diesel. Montana State University professor Gary Strobel found the fungus in a Patagonian rain forest. “It’s a major discovery,” he says.

Why you care: Shrooms may make your car go vroom.

Get Buzzed Certain illnesses release chemicals with distinct odors (yet imperceptible to humans). According to Kathleen Hom of the Washington Post, a Portuguese artist named Susa na Soares has been using honeybees as a diagnostic tool for skin and lung cancers, diabetes, and tuberculosis. Researchers and scientists already work with cancer-sniffing dogs, but bees have more than 170 smell receptors and a 99 percent accuracy rate. Patients breathe into the small section of a glass bubble containing two chambers. If the bees detect specific toxins, they fly from the large chamber into the smaller one. Down the road, bees may also be used to detect fertility cycles.

What this means: Glass-blowing artists and beekeepers can make significant scientific contributions.

womensadventuremagazine.com

WIN MCNAMEE/STAFF/GETTY; iSTOCK

The world’s most extensive array of animal rights laws took effect in Switzerland in September. Dog owners must take, at their own expense, classes in pet care—and anglers must take a class covering the humane treatment of fish. Animals listed as “social” (including goldfish, hamsters, sheep, goats, and yaks) must be kept with or near another of their species. Goldfish must have some “privacy” (no completely transparent tanks) and can be killed only humanely (never flushed alive). Even mud-loving pigs are entitled to occasional showers.

[ LESSONS FROM THE FIELD ]

An Unprecedented First When Nora Colligan “won” the elite wave of the 2008 Nike Women’s Marathon in San Francisco, she couldn’t have known that she had the second-fastest time. Roughly 4 miles into the 19-woman elite race, Nora didn’t see or hear the start of the citizen wave or think much about it—until Arien O’Connell, a 24-yearold fifth-grade teacher from Brooklyn, bested Nora’s

time by 11 minutes. Nike awarded both women the first-place trophy and plans to do away with the elite field this year so that all runners have an equal opportunity to win the marathon outright and strategize against their opponents in real time.

Why is this important?

Two words: Rocky Balboa.

W

e all lose it, whether it’s a sharp word to a colleague or our kids. If you start noticing that you’re yelling most of the time, you might take a tip from the equine world.

Did you know that you can move 1,000 pounds with your index finger? Horse whisperers know that if you want a horse to back up, you push against the bridge of the horse’s nose—using the exact amount of pressure necessary to get a response—no more and no less. At the first sign of yielding, you take your hand away. The horse learns what you want him to do, watches for cues, and soon takes a step backward with just a hand signal from you. Once this rapport has been achieved, more than a gesture causes an overreaction and breaks the bond of trust.

Often without realizing it, we “train” our friends, colleagues, kids, and significant others by the amount of pressure we use to get a desired response. Yell all the time and those around you learn to wait for things to escalate before taking you seriously. Spank a child, and you’ll never know what he would have done if you’d just asked. The results might be the same, but the relationship won’t be. So, the next time you’re losing it, take a step back, dial it down, and see if you can build the kind of trust with others that requires only a quiet nod (rather than a tap, nudge, or shove) to work together.

[ YOUR HEALTH ]

The Heart of the Matter

You’re thin. You exercise. You’ve never smoked. And you’re young.

PhotoIllustration: iSTOCK; iSTOCK

So, you don’t need to worry about heart disease, right? Although cardiovascular disease kills twice as many women as all types of cancer and is the leading cause of death among women over 25, only 13 percent of women consider it a threat to their health.

Being an athlete helps, but it won’t make you immune. Even marathon runners can have high cholesterol—a shocking but sobering fact for the fit and fabulous to face. What can you do?

Move Over Grizzlies Most people think of wolves as carnivorous predators and sometimes scavengers. But the open journal BMC Ecology reports that even when deer are plentiful, wolves prefer to eat salmon during spawning season. The study tracked eight wolf groups for three seasons over four years and found that, given the choice,

wolves will choose surf over turf in the wild.

Why we care: Because data like this can help us win in future versions of Trivial Pursuit and, of course, for future studies of ecological impact on deer populations and waterborne diseases.

Get your cholesterol checked and monitor it. It’s as easy as a simple blood test. Know your numbers.

Eat a heart-healthy diet that includes fresh vegetables, legumes, soy, nuts, fish, and fruit. Limit baked goods, whole milk, butter, eggs, and red meat.

Read the labels on prepackaged foods. Look for zerocholesterol options.

Take omega-3 supplements.

Consider a heart scan. Most insurance won’t pay for it, but $395 is worth a little peace of mind.

Go to www.goredforwomen.org for more information about how you can get heart-healthy today.

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INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION

[ BY DESIGN ]

The Anti-shoe Revolution

Companies including Masai Barefoot Technology (MBT), Newton, Vibram, and Earth have latched onto the theory that modern footwear is making our feet weaker, causing poor posture, joint pain, and injury. The Journal of Archaeological Science supports this claim. “A shoeless lifestyle promotes stronger little toes,” says Washington University researcher and physical anthropologist Erik Trinkaus, “because when you walk barefoot, you grip the ground with your toes as a natural reflex.”

Professor Trinkaus believes that shoes appeared around 30,000 years ago (pre-Neanderthal), and our feet have never been the same.

Even today in many parts of the world, it’s not unusual to see population segments, such as the Masai tribes of East Africa, without footwear.

It was Swiss engineer Karl Muller who studied the nomadic Masai and found that while they were constantly on their feet traversing uneven, rugged terrain, they didn’t have the neck and back problems of most Europeans and Americans.

Muller studied the biomechanics of the Masai and found that they utilize muscles and bones of the foot to correcr their gait over Africa’s soft, natural surfaces. The key discovery for Muller: active stabilization versus passive support.

Seeking to duplicate barefoot walking, MBT designers developed a patented sole structure that included a cushy wedge (the sensor) sitting between the midsole and the outsole to mimic a shoeless stroll on the beach. This unstable pseudo-sand-walking activated lazy muscle groups that rushed in to aid balance. The negative heel angle of an MBT shoe—evident at first sight—aligned the bones of the ankle, knee, and hip as it guided the foot into the step.

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But why not just go barefoot à la South African Olympian Zola Budd Pieterse? Yes, the idea is unconventional, but so are MBTs. “I think people love their footwear because it reflects on their lifestyle,” says Alois Badegruber, head of product marketing for MBT, “but their shoes also need to protect their feet. MBT gives people the opportunity to protect their whole body.”

MBT works because of the instability it creates, but as a model for shoe technology, it’s as stable as ever: The company now boasts more than 1 million in sales. www.theantishoe.com

Other Barefoot-Science Aficionados Newton. If you’re looking for life in the fast lane, Newton builds shoes for speed. Created by runners for runners, Newton’s sole focus is to make the wearer faster by retraining the runner’s form. By forcing the runner onto the ball of the foot, the shoes mimic barefoot running. When you run barefoot, you strike with your forefoot first and naturally avoid pronation and supination, inward and outward foot rotation. Newton’s Active Membrane Technology pushes runners onto their toes and propels them forward for the most efficient gait. Like MBT, Newton promises that the oncelazy muscles of the foot and the calf will spring into action. www.newtonrunning.com

Vibram. Perhaps the closest you can get to protected barefoot running is with Vibram FiveFingers technology. Vibram, known for the sticky outsoles it manufactures for hiking boots and trailrunning shoes, created FiveFingers to allow each toe its independence in a sock-like rubber slipper.

With limited support, the toes work to maintain the runner’s balance, and the entire foot gets a workout.

Like Newton, Vibram FiveFingers are made for performance, to make you faster and stronger by forcing your body to maximize its natural bio-mechanical movements. www.vibramfivefingers.com

Earth. Après run or walk, you can head into the office in a pair of Earth shoes. Yes, these are the same shoes some of us will admit to wearing in the 1970s. They were hip, cool, suede, and thick soled. Now, using Kalso Negative Heel Technology, Earth promises a full-body workout by engaging all the core muscles of the body. Plus, they’ve moved out of the seventies to offer more modern and stylish selections. www.earth.us

womensadventuremagazine.com

CORRYNN COCHRAN

It’s a burgeoning trend to go back to basics. One by one we’re abandoning modern conveniences (from processed foods to SUVs) to return to simplicity, save our planet, and live longer lives. But could the shoes you wear every day (and we’re not talking high-heeled Manolo Blahniks) be costing you your health?

[ ROAR ]

Anne Mahlum (third from the left) huddles pre-run with her Philadelphia running pals

Stepping Out

One woman’s passion for running creates positive change for the homeless

SCOTT H. SPITZER

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ell before dawn on the still streets of Philadelphia, Anne Mahlum hits the pavement, her running shoes echoing down the block. For years the diminutive blond has risen at four thirty in the morning for a solo inner-city jog that serves as part training, part spiritual satisfaction, and part therapy.

“That primitive physical motion and all the metaphors that surround it,” says Anne, “reaffirm to me that everything is going to be okay.”

Though the 28-year-old marketing consultant had been running since she was 16 years old, she’d never stopped to consider the people she passed on her route. But, on one brisk morning in May 2007, as she jogged past her usual fan club of down-on-their-luck men cheering from beneath tattered blankets on the sidewalk, a sense of selfishness sunk in.

“I literally stopped in my tracks and thought, What the hell am I doing?” recalls Anne. “Here I am, starting off my day in a way that is so amazing. Why don’t I share that with them?”

Less than two months after her running epiphany, Anne contacted a skeptical director at Philadelphia’s Sunday Breakfast Rescue Mission. Nine pairs of running shoes in hand, she showed up at dawn on July 3, 2007, for

the first group run.

“I walked into a shelter filled with older African-American men. They looked at me like, Who the hell are you? They assumed I didn’t have any problems,” Anne recalls. In reality, she told them, her father was an alcoholic and a drug addict, and she’d had her own fair share of addiction problems related to food.

She also told them that running had been her savior. And off they went, for a brutal, but— for some—life-changing 15-minute jog.

Nick Hughes, 28, had just finished a four-year prison sentence when he met “this strange little girl” named Anne: “I thought she was nuts.” He passed on her offers at first, preferring to sleep “to escape the depression.” But after other runners returned with a palpable high, he signed up. “You take a guy whose life has fallen apart before his eyes,” he says, “He may not have anything else, but you know what, he’s a runner now. He’s an athlete.

It gives him his self-esteem back.” Hughes has since logged hundreds of miles, returned to school to study computer science, gotten a job, and moved into an apartment.

Fast-forward two years and Anne’s running club for the homeless, Back on My Feet (BOMF), is flourishing with 80 members

from Philadelphia shelters running three mornings a week and a new group set to launch in Baltimore this month. The nonprofit now has four full-time staffers, 400 volunteers, and a $1.2 million annual budget to help participants attend school, find jobs, and get off the street.

As 2008 came to a close, Anderson Cooper recognized Anne as one of the nation’s ten CNN Heroes and granted BOMF $25,000.

Anne’s early-morning revelation—to harness the runner’s high to battle homelessness—has sparked a movement, and similar programs are in the works in cities across the country.

BOMF aside, Anne still takes those four thirty in the morning runs and spends much of her spare time training for her goal to complete a marathon on every continent by 2010 (only Australia and Antarctica remain). Twelve years after she took it up, her sport still feeds her soul. “I feel like I’m waking up the city with my footsteps,” she says. “I like that responsibility.”

-Lisa Marshall (To volunteer or find Back on My Feet events in your area, visit www.backonmyfeet.org)

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DEET Perfume and the Perfect First Date Skip dinner and a movie. You’ll learn a lot more about a future paramour (and yourself) by navigating the wilderness together.

By Elisabeth Kwak-Hefferan

But wait—could this troll have been on to something? Taking your new guy outside sure beats making awkward conversation over sushi, all the while worrying there’s a chunk of unagi stuck between your teeth. Nope, go out climbing or skiing or hiking instead, and there’s not much choice but to be yourself. It’s a lot harder to maintain the uncomfortably airbrushed image that even the best of us strain to project on first dates when we really want someone to like us. You can’t waste time obsess-

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ing over how your hair looks when there are black diamonds to be had, now can you?

I tested this theory recently with a guy I’ll call The Ranger (let me know if you ever need any tips on the fine art of picking up park rangers at the backcountry permit office). Our first few dates were backpacking trips through Rocky Mountain National Park.

We both loved trails, and I figured if we could have fun backpacking together, well, wasn’t that a solid start?

Of course, it helps to establish ground rules.

On our first trip—a stunning, off-trail overnight in an evergreen-packed valley spreading beneath the Mummy Range—The Ranger turned to me and said, apropos of nothing

in particular, “You know, I didn’t ask you to do this just so I could have sex with you.” Glad we got that out of the way.

Not that we would have, even if that had been his plan and he’d managed to sweep me off my feet. A few miles of toting a heavy pack through the wilderness had transformed me into a sweaty mess, and I was giving off the alluring scent of sunscreen mixed with OFF! Deep Woods.

For keeping things PGrated, it’s even better than that old trick of not shaving your legs.

Once you’ve settled the question of first-date compatability, outdoor dating can be both illuminating and delightful.

Illuminating because it lets you size up the fella fairly quickly when it comes to

his athletic prowess. In this outdoor-sports-crazed town, it’s what my friend Tim calls the Boulder Firstdate Fitness Test. Near as I can tell, it means you give him one of your precious Saturday nights out only after he’s proven himself on a trail run.

But it’s more than that: You also get an expedited look into what your love interest is really like when the going gets tough. How does he act when you’re facing a crux move on the rock, say, or when it’s windy and sleeting and you’re stuck in a tent for 12 hours straight?

(Better to find out sooner rather than later if he pushes to summit in a lightning storm or always insists on the first run on powder days.) You just don’t get that kind of insight when you spend all your Friday nights at the multiplex.

womensadventuremagazine.com

iSTOCK

B

ack in college a friend of my dad’s gave him some advice about women and first dates: “Take ’em to the beach,” he said. “That way you get to see their bodies, and it doesn’t cost you anything.” Charming.

Get out and play.

TRILOGY BRA NOT-SO-TIGHT FITNESS CAPRI

800-342-4448 s titlenine.com/fit We’ve got stores in California, Colorado, Oregon, Washington, Idaho & Texas

And outdoor dating is delightful because it lets the two of you build amazing and unique memories together—the kind you’ll recount over and over.

Like that frosty morning at a lakeside campsite a few years ago, when my then heartthrob and I realized we’d packed oatmeal for breakfast but no stove— so we poured it all into a leftover aluminum can and cooked it straight in the fire. Or the time we were exploring a sand wash when a sudden storm blew in, forcing us to sprint through the sagebrush; dripping wet and mud encrusted, we skidded our way out just before the dirt road became totally impassable. I even remember a lecture from Psych 101 about the advisability of adrenaline-soaked adventures with your love interest. Taste the pound-

ing heart and stomach butterflies of your activity together, the theory goes, and your exhilaration for the sport will transfer to each other.

Hmm…that didn’t happen with The Ranger and me, but, strangely, I don’t mind too much. Maybe it had something to do with a recent hike on Longs Peak— a guy I know drove into the wee hours to meet my group for a 1:30 a.m. kickoff. How could I not notice a boy who’ll gladly trade a night’s sleep for the thrill of climbing a fourteener in the snow?

I’m intrigued—and itching to explore this one. I know just the place to do it, too: the beach. That way I’ll get to see his body, and I won’t have to pay for anything.

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Melissa prepares to hit the water with an expert dive off the blocks

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womensadventuremagazine.com

Head Above Water

Melissa Stockwell tests her metal GAVIN DESNOYERS; DAVE HOFFMAN

By Kristy Holland

L

ess than a year removed from the streets of Baghdad and the April 2004 roadside explosion that took her left leg, Melissa Stockwell began chasing her Olympic dreams. “I had never even heard of the Paralympics before my injury,” says the upbeat athlete from her home near Chicago, “but when I found out about it, I knew immediately it was something I wanted to do.”

Last year the 29-year-old amputee broke the U.S. record for the 400-meter Freestyle event at the Olympic trials in Minnesota, where she began her competitive career in 2005; and she swam to fourth-, fifth-, and sixth-place finishes in the 400-meter Freestyle, the 100-meter Freestyle, and the 100-meter Butterfly, respectively, at the Paralympic Games in Beijing. But with just four years in the pool, Melissa hopes the best is yet to come. “My times had to increase 500 percent for me to make the team last year,” she laughs, “and at first I was getting disqualified just jumping off the blocks. I really didn’t know what I was doing.”

“I was getting disqualified just jumping off the blocks. I really didn’t know what I was doing.”

It has been a steep learning curve, but Melissa has proven she can handle steep, even on one leg. She’s hit the slopes on a single ski with the Wounded Warrior Project, where she

also serves on the Board of Directors, and last November she made the cut to compete with 45 elite athletes in the longest handcycle race in the world. Though she rattles off a crosscountry list of upcoming events—the CAN-AM Disability Championships in Oregon, a California triathlon, a veterans’ ski trip to Vail—the 267mile handcycle race is arguably the toughest of the lot. In Sadler’s Alaska Challenge, she’ll be wheel-to-wheel against two fellow Paralympians in the women’s category. “My arms and shoulders were shot after just 26.2 miles on a handbike last year,” recalls Melissa. “I’m going to have to start training a lot to make it 55 miles up a mountain.” The eight-stage race climbs 16,000 feet and culminates with an 18-mile, 3,500-foot climb after six grueling race days.

Melissa admits that she’s always had a competitive streak and that her injury has inspired her move toward elite athlete status and her studies pursuing a degree in prosthetics, which is on hold while she tours the country and begins training in earnest for London 2012. “Swimming made me feel whole again,” she says, “and after my injury I was drawn to the Paralympics, knowing that I’d be representing the flag. It’s the same reason I joined the army: to wear the uniform and defend it. But representing the USA in a different way, I’ve come full circle.”

Photo caption TK??

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PSYCHOBABBLE

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Good Grief: Emotional Recovery

Many athletes use sports as their therapists, lovers, and friends. Go ahead and grieve. When you blow a knee, you really have lost a loved one.

A

Time

By Ali Geiser

At first it seemed that everything would be okay. The doctor said that my joints had taken a beating in the past 25 years (patellar tracking disorder and chondromalacia in the knees, a minor bone spur and rotator cuff impingement syndrome in the shoulders), but it was nothing that some rest and physical therapy couldn’t fix. Eager to get back to training, I threw myself enthusiastically into pulling on the colored rubber straps my therapist gave me, took up a serious ab-training regime, and spent lots of time soaking in the bathtub while drinking beer and watching climbing videos.

* Elisabeth Kübler-Ross’s five-stage process

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womensadventuremagazine.com

ISTOCK

t the age of six, I discovered endurance sports, and they quickly became my umbilical cord to heaven and happiness. For 19 years I trained and trained hard, pushing my body through minor injuries and never experiencing any major ones. Then, six months ago, on a lovely, heartpounding Sunday run through the mountains, both my knees gave out.

In excruciating pain, I managed to hobble the 3 miles to a trailhead and call a friend to pick me up.

A week later, while negotiating a tricky mantle problem at the rockclimbing gym, something cracked, hot and final, in my left shoulder.

When a week of rest, ice, and push-ups didn’t fix everything as it usually did, I sacked up and headed to the doctor.

But after a month or so, this started to get old. The weather was cool, the sun was high, and I wanted to be out working 5.12s and racing half marathons. I tried to run, again and again, every time limping home after 10 minutes. I tried to climb, but after five pitches of 5.7, debilitating pain set into my shoulders that lasted for days. I began to realize that everything was not okay. The umbilical cord was cut, leaving me abandoned and gasping for air. And I was not happy.

Back in 1969 Elisabeth Kübler-Ross, MD, outlined the five-stage process by which people deal with grief and catastrophic loss. Unbeknownst to me, I’d just gimped though stage one, denial, and was entering stage two: anger.

First I got pissed at my physical therapist. Something about shelling out all that money only to have my condition worsen just didn’t sit right. Then I got pissed at myself, since obviously it was overtraining or understretching or something of the like that got me into this situation in the first place. It was easy to be pissed at my doctor; he was now telling me that I’d done enough climbing and running and that I should take up a more gentle sport. The rest of my world—my boyfriend, off climbing in Rifle or the Tetons; my friends, climbing in Switzerland, France, Squamish, Yosemite—they were supereasy to be pissed at.

Luckily, rather than break things, I used this bitter rage to propel myself into stage three: bargaining.

The first thing I bargained away was all the money I’d been hoarding for climbing trips: sports massages, MRIs, second opinions, acupuncture, more physical therapy— anything to get better, regardless of the cost. When my sister suggested I might have Lyme disease, I bargained with the higher powers.

Sweet Jesus, Lord up above, please let me have Lyme disease so that I may be on intravenous antibiotics for a couple months and then go back to training! But no, the tests came up negative, and though I realized that it was probably for the best that I didn’t have a potentially chronic illness, my mood began to dive as I reckoned that maybe the doctors were right; maybe this was the end of my athletic career. Welcome to stage four: depression.

to fellow rock climbers about my condition, they didn’t pat my hand and share their stories of being couch-bound and nursing the burning bottle—though I’m sure they’d been there. Oh no, they made it clear that injury is not, in fact, the end of the world, and they pushed me toward what Dr. Kübler-Ross deemed the fifth and final step of dealing with tragedy: acceptance.

Dave Graham told me how his worst injury led to a major breakthrough in his climbing. Sarah Watson said that it was through dealing with a deadly staph infection that she learned to have balance in her life that in the long run has made her not only healthier but happier too. Chad Greedy told me to eat more bacon. And Naomi Guy gave me a simple, critical bit of advice for healing: “You get outside and you get some fresh air and you move about.” She said, “I think if you sit and stay stagnant, then you’re gonna have problems. It just leads to depression, doesn’t it?”

“I bargained with the higher powers. Sweet Jesus, Lord up above, please let me have Lyme disease so that I may be on intravenous antibiotics for a couple months and then go back to training!”

I gave up on physical therapy and doctors and everything else, other than drinking too much and sleeping too much. Depression is a funny thing because while you’re in it, it feels like it will last forever; there is no hope, no future, and your body seems too heavy to ever move again. Yet when I began to lament

So I did something novel. I went for a hike. Not to the top of anything, not to reach a climbing area. Just a leisurely hike. And somewhere along the trail I let go of the attitude that training must mean always improving and pushing, and I accepted my body for where it was.

My shoulders relaxed and began to loosen; the gentle pace didn’t bother my knees at all. I felt at home with the mountains and the trees. My mind stilled. I breathed deeply. The air felt fresh and new in my lungs.

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SENSE OF PLACE

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theirs, all of us laughing.

I began to sing: Oh, the big red letters stand for the Jell-O family— Oh the big red letters stand for the Jell-O family— It’s Jell-O—yum, yum, yum Jell-O Pudding—yum, yum, yum Jell-O Tapioca pudding—try all three!

The children are laughing hysterically, at me, at my singing, and I cannot believe that the only song that came to me was a Mormon camp ditty, that I learned when I was eight years old.

Terry Tempest Williams journeys to Rwanda to build a memorial with the survivors of the 1994 genocide.

Whatever Louis tells them, the children are rolling with laughter.

By Terry Tempest Williams

Meghan moves us forward with a chant of her own. We enter a musical trance. In the dreamscape of afternoon heat, the African sun beats like a drum, moving one tiny girl. She jumps into the center of the circle and dances. With her eyes closed, she twirls and twirls. The children clap as she rises and falls like a scarf being blown up and down by the wind. Other girls join her, one with her hands in a prayer shape above her head. More begin to dance and sing on the edges of bones, impatient bones that are crying to be buried.

I

am sitting against a tree wishing I could disappear. The physical and psychic assault of Africa has deflated me. I close my eyes. Three girls suddenly grab my hands and pull me up, pushing me toward the school where dozens and dozens of children follow, running, laughing, and tugging at my skirt. Meghan is behind me with her own group of children. Desperate to stem the chaos, I sit down on the ground, making a circle with my hands. Miraculously, the children sit down with me, and then with Louis’s help, they move back to enlarge the circle so more kids can join us.

“My name is Terry,” I say, then clap, looking at the child sitting next to me. “My name is Olive,” she says and claps! “My name is Jean Claude.” Clap! “My name is Vincent.” Clap! The tempo picks up. “My name is Yvonne.” Clap! And so the children’s names become a game of cadence and rhythm moving energetically through the circle like an electrical current. And then spontaneously the children begin to sing. Olive sings with a deep, haunting voice. More songs emerge, many of them Christian songs the children learned in church.

Suddenly, the children start clapping their hands and calling my name. I don’t know what they want. Louis turns to me and says, “They want you to sing them a song—teach them a song.” My mind, in a panic, goes blank. A song? I can’t remember any song. Finally (with Louis translating), I say, “Okay, this is a very silly song. It’s about a food called ‘Jell-O.’” I jiggle my body, and they jiggle

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Louis whispers in my ear, “No one can rob these children of their joy.”

Excerpted from Terry Tempest Williams new book, Finding Beauty in a Broken World with permission from Pantheon Books, a division of Random House, Inc.

womensadventuremagazine.com

DAVID STEWART-SMITH/CONTRIBUTOR/GETTY

Finding Beauty in a Broken World

Louis tries to explain to the children what Jell-O is. He looks at me completely puzzled, “What should I say?” “Tell them it looks like a fat man’s belly that jiggles when he’s laughing. Tell them its green and comes in cold square cubes.” Louis raises his eyebrows. “Tell them it’s like squishy candy and you can eat it with a spoon.”

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TRY THIS

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The burgeoning sport of parkour is no longer the sole realm of skater dudes. Beyond looking cool as you leap walls in a single bound, you’ll also get one heck of a full-body workout.

By Krisan Christensen

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n a world that seems to grow its cities faster than its forests, what better way to find a silver lining than to wedge your fingers right in the cracks and hoist yourself over the very walls of this concrete jungle? Swing from its metal branches, crawl through its steel caves, and run all over its fields of stone. While many enjoy

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adventuring in the vast nature outside the city limits, there are actually physical feats that can be conquered just off your doorstep, at the bus stop, and in the office parking garage. Also known as l’art du déplacement, parkour is a means of looking at any obstacle and finding a way to effectively overcome it. It is what moves the terrorist

womensadventuremagazine.com

CORRYNN COCHRAN

The author defying gravity with a parkour sequence in Boulder, CO.

through the construction site in the opening chase scene of Casino Royale, launches people to roofs without ladders and lets them scale walls without handholds. Parkour is a combination of movements that propel the human body from one place to another in the quickest, most efficient way possible.

While you may not have the desire to chase criminals or become a stuntwoman, training for parkour can improve endurance for almost any sport and strengthen specific skills related to climbing, biking, running, skiing, snowboarding, and any other sport that involves balance, speed, and strength. You won’t start off vaulting over four-foot walls or bouncing off stairwells, but no matter how active you are or what sports you prefer, the first two-hour class will work muscles you haven’t used since you were ten years old. You’ll crab-walk backward and forward, do pull-ups, push-ups, lunges, 360s, rolls, and burpees. You’ll learn things you believe have no application to parkour—until week three or four, when suddenly they do. A fitness class with no weights needed, parkour gives you the core strength and the finesse to lift, hold, rotate, propel, and spin your body as its own implement.

The basics of parkour can be traced back to parcours du combatant, French military obstacle courses developed from Georges Hébert’s méthode naturelle, which consisted of his 10 fundamental human movements: walking, running, jumping, quadrupedal movement, climbing, balancing, throwing, lifting, self-defense, and swimming.

The very ideas and skills presented in Hébert’s méthode naturelle and taught in French army training were eventually picked up by Raymond Belle, a soldier and member of the French military fire service, who passed it down to his son David. As a teenager David Belle moved from the French countryside to Lisses, just outside of Paris, where he formed the group Yamakazi and coined the term

parkour. Translating the méthode naturelle to the urban setting of Lisses, Belle imagined himself in the same emergency situations his father encountered daily and practiced ways to get through them.

Parkour found its origins in the French countryside, traveled to the streets of Paris, and has now become a global activity practiced by people of all ages and body types. In fact, a growing number of women are catching on. It does require a certain level of intense fitness, but any traceuse (a female who practices parkour) can build from that baseline. More than anything, women who practice parkour gain new confidence in what their bodies can do. Things that seem physically impossible progress to being easy, and that mental boost carries over into all other areas. As Colorado parkour instructor Ryan Ford puts it, “I use parkour as a means to improve myself. It makes me more fit, it sharpens my mind, and it prepares me to be useful to myself and others. It teaches me to overcome obstacles literally and figuratively. It helps me overcome my fears, reach my goals, and solve problems.”

Getting Started There are many online resources, including www.parkourgenerations. com and www.americanparkour.com, and local groups and gyms being set up nationwide to connect practicing traceurs. Check out APEX Movement in Denver, CO, the third largest parkour gym in the world. Typical lesson packages range from 8-10 weeks and run $130-$150.

Check out the stumbles, falls, leaps, and stunts of the WAM staff learning parkour womensadventuremagazine.com

Jackess: My First Time

By Krisan Christensen

I

watch Ryan fly horizontally through the air, push his hands off the crest of the four-foot wall in front of him, tuck his legs between his arms, and land on the other side midstride. I stare in awe until I realize he wants us to try the very same thing. How dare my 5-foot-4-inch frame even ask my feet to get that far off the ground—let alone weave through my arms to the other side. All that can come of this is my shins crashing into the wall, my knees pushing my hands from their place, and me plummeting into a royal face-plant. But when Ryan breaks it down step-by-step, it takes only a few tries at each progression before I am sailing over the top of the wall safely planting my feet on the ground.

It has been like this for every skill Ryan has taught us in our eight sessions with Colorado Parkour. I watch him give the example with ease, I go through a little self-doubt when it is my turn, I give it a try, and I am amazed and thrilled that I was able to tick-tack up the stairwell, cat-leap over a railing, and muscleup a wall on the other side. In the end all I did were a combination of small moves we had been practicing throughout the course.

I have always considered myself an athlete, participating in soccer, ultimate Frisbee, softball, skiing, snowboarding, and climbing, but the mental gymnastics of parkour almost outweigh the physical. Unlike kicking a soccer ball or throwing a softball, parkour moves seem impossible. I appear to defy gravity, but I’m not. I’m learning to work with it. Three weeks after our parkour classes end, I’m still smiling. I’m hanging out at a gym with a few friends. I eye the wall, run at it, bounce upward off of it, and grab the standard-height basketball goal brackets. I shimmy across and then drop to the ground. I can’t say what practical application this move might have except that it’s a blast. Perhaps that is more than enough.

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Fatigue is a telltale sign of low red blood cell counts, i.e. anemia

Become an Iron Woman What you need to know about anemia and active women

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is the most common blood disorder in the country. Many doctors, researchers, and sports-medicine experts speculate that a much larger number of people suffer from the condition and don’t realize it. How it that possible?

Affecting a registered 3.4 million people and perhaps as many as 20 percent of women in the United States, anemia

The symptoms of anemia can be so subtle that many people write them off as sheer exhaustion or chronic fatigue, when they are actually experiencing an insufficient number of red blood cells and a lower amount of hemoglobin than usual. Hemoglobin, the agent that gives red blood cells their color, transports oxygen through the bloodstream. Anemic athletes, for example, can’t get enough oxygen to their worked muscles to reach peak performance and tend to recover much more slowly after

t’s spring. After running five miles per day and passing on red meat for months, you’re finally fulfilling every New Year’s goal and looking lean. Then it hits you: a creeping, almost unnoticeable fatigue. You rest for a few days, but it persists. The weakness that first went under your radar slowly builds, hindering your day-to-day activities. You can’t run as long. You get tired more quickly.

You don’t want to eat as much. You spend more time on the couch and start making excuses not to put on your sneakers and go out. For many female athletes, these are the telltale signs of anemia.

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By MacKenzie Ryan

a workout. At times they will even feel drained at the beginning of their exercise routine.

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Deficiencies in iron, folate, and vitamin B12 are the most common causes of anemia. In women iron deficiency is almost a naturally occurring condition. We bleed once a month, shedding much-needed iron in the process. About half of all pregnant women become anemic during or after their pregnancy. Whereas men need only 8 milligrams of iron a day, the Recommended Dietary Allowance for women is 18 milligrams.

To avoid low red blood cell counts, don’t skimp on the red meat. Cheeseburgers might not be the best option because of the excessive fat, but adding lean ground turkey to chili will increase your iron consumption.

Animal protein supplies significantly more iron than even the most ironrich vegetables so vegetarians have a high risk of becoming anemic. If you don’t eat meat, try drinking more prune juice. Dairy products lack iron stores so eat baked beans and tofu instead of yogurt and cheese.

Grains are also poor sources of iron, so opt for fortified or enriched cereal. And consider taking multivitamin and mineral supplements.

Though they’re not as effective as maintaining a balanced diet, they might guard against a deficiency and boost flagging folate or B12 levels.

Cooking with cast iron pots and pans also enhances the iron content in your meal. Moving to higher altitude might also help, people who live a mile or two above sea level have greater concentrations of red blood cells. Though relocation is an extreme option for all but elite athletes, incorporating ironconscious changes into your daily routine can help keep a spring in your step.

Check out www.anemia.org for more information on America’s most common blood disorder.

Feed Your Blood Anemia can be debilitating, especially for on-the-go types. But it’s also easily prevented and treated if you include more iron in your diet. Start by evaluating your exercise level and food intake. If you are an avid runner, for example, you are more prone to anemia than any other kind of athlete. The body needs extra iron to repair damaged blood cells in the feet.

You also might lose small amounts of blood through the intestinal tract.

The remedy? Add more lean cuts of turkey, beef, or tuna to your diet. Unlike the age-old myth, eating more spinach won’t help as much as biting into a juicy steak. The human body does not efficiently absorb iron from vegetables, so it is twice as easy for us to gain the appropriate nutrient from animal products.

Ultimately, we get only 3 percent of the iron in spinach.

Vegetarian athletes should be particularly careful when planning their meals. Vegheads need more calories, fat, calcium, and iron to perform well. Here’s another tip: Vitamin C boosts the body’s ability to absorb iron, in some cases more than twofold. Pair tomato slices and strawberries with spinach for a more colorful salad. Drink orange juice when you eat fortified cereal. Other go-to vitamin C foods include grapefruit, cantaloupe, peppers, broccoli, and potatoes.

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Taste Buds Bored?

Treat Them to Something Exotic

Boost nutrition, culture, and color in the kitchen with these four exotic fruits—now ripening the pickings at your local produce department.

By Kristy Holland Where mealy apples and browned bananas once stood as grocery store staples, options today include a bright, colorful, and sometimes confusing assortment of far-flung fruits. Don’t be intimidated by spiky skin, unfamiliar flavors, and mysterious textures. Use this primer about four uncommon varieties that will add flare to your five-a-day lifestyle and boost your intake of vitamin C, vitamin A, folate, and more.

Feijoa

Persimmon

Dark green with a gritty white pulp and translucent flesh, this diminutive South American fruit is a great source of folate, a water-soluble B vitamin especially important for new cell growth. A cousin of the guava, the aromatic feijoa—a sweet and acidic combo of pineapple and strawberry or guava—is popular in New Zealand as a flavor for yogurts, juices, and ice cream.

Watch for imported fruits between March and June and domestically grown varieties in the fall.

The flattened, rounded shape of the Fuyu persimmon gives it a tomatolike appearance, but its sweet flesh is refreshing and almost slimy when ripe. Plus, it’s loaded with vitamin C, vitamin A, and more than 6 grams of dietary fiber. Though two types hit mainstream stores every fall, opt for the 2- to 3-inch Fuyu instead of the larger, acorn-shaped Hachiya. The Fuyu packs a stronger nutritional punch and it’s beginnerfriendly, lacking astringent tannins that make not-quite-ripe Hachiyas inedible.

First-timer tips: These 1- to 3-inch fruits ripen quickly at room temperature but can be stored for more than a month in the refrigerator. Look for ripe fruits that give under gentle pressure, but don’t eat brownish, overripe inner flesh or the bitter skin.

First-timer tips: Wait several days or weeks for the firm fruit to soften to the texture of a tight water balloon, taking care not to puncture or bruise the skin. Cut into quarters and serve chilled with the skin on or off, or grind the pulp for puddings, smoothies, or baking.

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Dragon Fruit

Jackfruit

The hot-pink skin and yellow-tipped tendril-like leaves of the dragon fruit make it one of the funkiest finds in the produce department, and its flesh—ranging from seed-spotted white to deep magenta—adds to its allure. This South American native, also known as the pitaya, has a smooth melonlike flesh with a mild sweetness that is high in vitamin C and sprinkled with tiny, fiber-boosting black seeds. Deep-red-flesh varieties also offer a dose of lycopene, an antioxidant-rich pigment that some studies suggest may reduce cancer risk.

With a spiky husk and a heft that resembles a watermelon, you might not find this largest of the world’s tree-borne fruits at standard grocery stores. But the familiar taste of the light-yellow flesh—the rumored inspiration behind Wrigley’s Juicy Fruit gum—makes a trip to the Asian market worthwhile. Adventure-loving frugivores will find a burst of vitamin C; 1-cup of the stickysweet flesh holds nearly 20 percent of your daily requirement. Canned and freeze-dried samples are easier to find and can be a less messy single-serving introduction to this popular Asian flavor.

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First-timer tips: Scoop the soft flesh with a spoon, leaving the skin intact. Chop and chill the fruit and use the rind as a decorative serving bowl.

First-timer tips: Oil your hands before cutting into the thick husk, as the non-edible parts of the jackfruit ooze a gluelike sap that is difficult to wash off skin. The chestnutsized seeds can be boiled or roasted for traditional curries.

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UN

DISCOVERED

ADVENTURE

Looking for adventure in spots that have not been overrun with busloads of guided tourists or overzealous hordes of action-sports geeks? Visiting these once off-limits nations offers exploration of untouched natural wonders and the chance to make a difference in global understanding.

By Doug Schnitzspahn for us and offered swigs of what I believe was camel’s milk that fermented in his saddlebags during our sweltering trek.

Even more stupid was to travel so close to rogue states like Libya and Algeria, where we could end up in prison with no rights if caught. Yet I felt oddly safe.

One night we met more Bedouin guides like Massoud, on the move somewhere between the states of the Sahara, uncaring of what nation claimed them. They were nomads; they belonged to the desert.

And they told me of places deeper in from Tunisia, of the great volcano of Waw an Namus in the heart of the Libyan Sahara, places that sounded so fantastical that they could not be true—places I felt that I had to see. But Libya was off-limits.

Now the world has changed. Libya, once the baddest-of-the-bad terrorist state,

is now open to Americans. Places once closed by war, genocide, and dictatorship are open to travelers willing to take some risks. These destinations are filled with natural wonders as well as the chance to connect with local people who have long been locked away from the rest of the world. Travel here offers a chance to share ideas and help build a more understanding world—so long as tourism remains focused on benefiting, respecting, and empowering the native people and ecosystems.

The fairy tale of Waw an Namus is now available for me to explore along with the people of the Sahara who know it.

With many more once-closed destinations now open to thoughtful adventurers, we offer five spots that, once foolhardy to visit, are now brimming with the promise of adventure. iSTOCK

We were so far out in the desert that boundaries didn’t matter anymore. Were we in Tunisia? Libya? Algeria? It didn’t matter, our guide Massoud told us, pouring mint tea into my battered metal cup under a Saharan sky filled with stars. Didn’t matter?! Libya supported the bombing of airplanes, and Algerians were killing tourists.

“No countries matter out here,” Massoud explained in French that was almost as mangled as his teeth. “We are all Sahara.”

It had been pure stupidity to come to the Sahara in the middle of August. During the day the temperatures rose above 120 degrees, and we spread a blanket over a bush to wait out the heat and fight off hallucinations. We moved with our camels at dawn and dusk. At night the desert came alive, and Massoud cooked

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Ghadames

White Desert chalk formations

Waw an Namus

Back in the 1980s, the Great Socialist People’s Libyan Arab Jamahiriya (aka Libya) was the big, bad Islamofascist terror state. Its posturing, sunglasses-wearing dictator Muammar alQaddafi supposedly financed despicable operations ranging from the 1986 bombing of a Berlin disco to the downing of Pan Am Flight 103 over Lockerbie, Scotland, in 1988. For good reason the desert nation on the Mediterranean was off-limits to American travelers. But times change. Qaddafi somehow hung on and actually capitulated to American demands to help fight the “war on terror,” so much so that in 2006 the U.S. government rescinded Libya’s designation as a state sponsor of terrorism,

opening up the country to official diplomatic relations and legal American tourists.

Beyond the curiosity of being able to visit a nation that has been closed for so long, Libya’s location between the classical ruins of the Mediterranean and the vast wildness of the Sahara should ensure a growing tourist infrastructure.

Indeed, according to a report published by the World Travel and Tourism Council, Libya is expected to have the thirdlargest growth in travel and tourism demand between 2008 and 2018, right behind China and India—which means you should go now before it’s completely discovered.

Adventures

Mattawa (Ausable Press, 2008) is a stunning book of lyrical poetry from a LibyanAmerican that moves from the Sahara to Louisiana.

Think of Morocco and Tunisia but spin them back to what they must have felt like in the wild days of the 1930s. Libya’s long isolation means that for now it is unsullied by the hulking Club Med–style resorts that have landed like sterile, culture-sucking spaceships on the shores of neighboring destinations.

While there’s certainly some good, undiscovered diving on the Mediterranean coast, the great draw for adventure here, however, is a safari out into the endless seas of sand dunes punctuated by the rare, enduring oases towns like Ghadames, whose mudstone labyrinth of buildings has endured since Roman times. The most difficult-to-reach desert wonder is Waw an Namus, a volcanic caldera in the Sahara’s geographical center

that harbors foliage and salty lakes. Libya is also an archaeological Eden. Back in its ancient Roman heyday, North Africa was an opulent, bustling component of the empire, and the sprawling, incredibly well-preserved and tourist-free ruins of Leptis Magna have withstood the ravages of time and reign as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Tours

Arkno Tours has been operating in Libya since 1997 and offers multiple options, ranging from weeklong explorations of the Roman ruins around Tripoli to diving trips to 18-day treks into the desert. (www.arknotours.com)

Required reading

Safety concerns

In general, Libya is safe. Because it is still a dictatorship and the vastness of the Sahara is difficult to navigate solo, however, it’s best to visit with tour guides who can handle things for you should there be any problems. Women traveling in groups will also be hassled less than those traveling alone. Travelers must have a visa and an Arabic translation of their biographical information added to their passports and cannot have a passport stamp from Israel.

Translating Libya: The Modern Libyan Short Story (Saqi Books, 2008).

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Endangered Mountain Gorilla

Nyiragongo volcano

It will take decades—if ever—for Rwanda to shed the stigma of the 100 days in 1994 when as many as 1 million of its people were murdered. All foreigners fled as the horrific bloodbath ensued. Despite its legacy of genocide, Rwanda, though one of the smallest and most densely populated countries in Africa, is also among its most beautiful. Called the “land of a thousand hills,” the verdant landlocked nation cradles stunning volcanoes, coffee plantations, and bamboo forests. It’s also home to the largest remaining group of mountain gorillas; the 1988 Sigourney Weaver film Gorillas in the Mist immortalized their researcher and advocate Dian Fossey.

Terry Tempest Williams, author of Finding Beauty in a Broken World, explains traveling to Rwanda as a moral necessity. “We are among the most privileged people on the planet,” she told a crowd at a Conservation Alliance event after recounting stories about her travels. “How do we go deeper, each of us, in our own way, with our own gifts—now?” Traveling to Rwanda to experience its wild beauty, to attempt to understand the worst that humanity can do, and to help Rwandans move forward is a start.

Adventures

profits to local communities and offers tours to see the gorillas with local, trained trackers. Trips range from a one-day gorilla trek to a nine-day “Camping in the Mist” expedition. (www.rwandaecotours.com)

Mount Karisimbi, the highest peak in the country, and surrounding volcanic summits of the Virungas are the center of adventure here.

It’s a fairly easy two-day trek to the radio-tower clad roof of Rwanda. Another fantastic hike, at a paltry 12,175 feet, is Mount Visoke which shelters a misty crater lake.

But the inescapable adventure draw in Rwanda is the gorillas. Only 380 of the animals, which along with chimpanzees are our closest relatives, exist. Traveling with a primatologist guide in Volcanoes National Park, you get the chance to watch the great apes go about their lives.

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past. Most disturbing is the Ntarama Church Massacre Genocide Memorial. Here 5,000 innocents, including children, were slaughtered.

Rows of bones and skulls stacked on shelves stand testament, and bodies and signs of the killing have been left undisturbed. More hopeful is the Rugerero Genocide Memorial/ Monument Park built by Lily Yeh, founder of Barefoot Artists, and by volunteers including Terry Tempest Williams and local villagers.

As part of its healing project, Barefoot Artists has also built a survivors village, which includes rainwater harvesting systems, a sunflower oil business, arts and education programs, and a young women’s support program.

Tours

Rwanda Eco-Tours contributes 20 percent of its

Required reading

Rwanda: The Bradt Travel Guide by Philip Briggs (Bradt, 2006). We Wish to Inform You That Tomorrow We Will Be Killed with Our Families by Philip Gourevitch (Picador, 1999) is the chilling account of a New Yorker staff writer attempting to piece together the genocide with stories from survivors.

government, however, racial tensions between the majority Hutus and politically powerful Tutsis, who were the main target of the genocide, could reignite.

Crimes against women were prevalent during the wars; and though foreign women should be safe, it’s best to travel with guides or in groups. The neighboring Democratic Republic of Congo is extremely unstable and home to armed rebel groups.

Safety concerns

Rwanda is a safe and stable country for now.

There is some fear that without ongoing support to create a stable economic infrastructure and womensadventuremagazine.com

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Green tea fields in the Cyangugu

Volcano-bound bus

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Lake Nicaragua

Masaya Volcano

This lush, coffee-growing Central American nation—once the proposed site for what would become the Panama Canal— was the flashpoint of the nefarious Iran-Contra scandal in the 1980s. After the Marxist Sandinistas deposed a decadesold dictatorship in 1979, the Reagan administration began funding right-wing counterrevolutionaries, or “contras,” setting off a bloody struggle that didn’t end until 1990, when the Sandinistas declared open elections (which they lost). For decades the nation was a morass of poverty, land mines,

gunfire, and drug smuggling. If you were traveling here, you were either working for the CIA or at risk of getting caught in the Cold War crossfire. But, as democratization came with the 1990 elections, so did tourists seeking secluded beaches, surf breaks, and highland hideaways. Nicaragua is now the most intriguing nation to visit in Central America; think Costa Rica without all the gringos, their overcrowded surf camps, and booming beachfront real estate.

Adventures

multiday hikes with overnight stays in the houses of local campesinos. (www.toursnicaragua.com; www.matagalpatours.com)

For a soothing day trip, kayak out to Las Isletas, the 365 islands strewn across Lake Nicaragua outside of Granada, to watch flights of tropical birds and explore an old Spanish fort with views across the lake. It’s all just a prelude to a journey to Lake Nicaragua’s Isla de Ometepe, an island composed of two linked volcanoes worth a few days’ visit with a mandatory hike to the picturesque San Ramon waterfall. North of Granada the burbling Masaya caldera is the keystone of Nicaragua’s largest national park, Parque Nacional Volcán Masaya—a wonderland of fumaroles and crumbled lava rock.

Nicaragua’s Atlantic coast shelters one of its most famous outdoor destinations—the sleepy beaches and the tranquil coral reefs of the Corn

Islands—but the Pacific coast is also the spot for surfing, and a slowly growing host of surf camps. Locals will haul surfers out to hidden breaks. To really explore off the beaten path, head inland to the coffee farms and the misty green hills of the Matagalpa highlands. Ecominded travelers should stop at the Finca Esperanza Verde, a bucolic lodge surrounded by organic coffee plants, waterfalls, and butterflies.

Tours

Tours Nicaragua offers the widest and “greenest” range of trips in the country, which include expeditions into the rain forest, hiking and kayaking excursions, beach adventures, and the mandatory zipline outings.

In the highlands Matagalpa Tours creates customized itineraries with adventures that include caving and

American countries. Women should travel in groups.

Required reading

Moon Nicaragua by Joshua Berman and Randall Wood (Avalon Travel, 2008). Also check out Berman and Wood’s Nicaragua travel website and forum (www.gotonicaragua. com). The Country Under My Skin: A Memoir of Love and War by Gioconda Belli (Anchor, 2003) is the gripping memoir of an upper-class Nicaraguan woman who fights with the Sandinistas.

Safety concerns

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Golden pagodas Bagan Myanmar’s rural mountains

Stilt houses on Inle Lake

Burma or Myanmar? Burma is the historical name of the nation and the one used by dissidents who oppose its military junta. Myanmar is the name given to Burma by the violent military-led coup of the State Law and Order Restoration Council (SLORC) that took power in this Buddhist country in 1988. When the National League for Democracy (NLD) won free elections in 1990, the SLORC led by General Saw Maung ignored the results and jailed nonviolent NLD leader Aung San Suu Kyi, making the golden-spired Southeast Asian paradise an anathema for foreign tourists. In 2007 protesting monks were

met with violence that was broadcast around the world, Kyi is still under house arrest, and the United States has instilled stiff sanctions on Myanmar. But because much of it is closed to foreign tourists, it remains one of the few mysterious destinations in Southeast Asia. While Vietnam and Thailand have become flooded with Americans and beach resorts, Myanmar remains unsullied. Despite the violence of its dictatorship, it is a Buddhist nation, filled with warm, friendly people—excited to see tourists—and some of the most stunning landscapes and architecture on the planet.

Adventures

Mic Looby, Michael Clark, and Joe Cummings (Lonely Planet, 2005). In Letters from Burma by Aung San Suu Kyi (Penguin, 1998), Burmese dissident and 1991 Nobel Peace Prize winner Kyi writes intelligent and impassioned letters from her prison cell.

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treks to and from its rugged shore. One of the best outfits heads from the stilt houses of the lake toward the hills and the rice paddies of the countryside to Nyuang Shwe, which has its own golden pagoda and gigantic Buddha.

Tours

Pacific Discovery runs a 15-day trip in Burma that includes Inle Lake and strives for responsible tourism that profits local businesses. Another option is to volunteer for an organization like Thirst Aid, which is working to provide Myanmar with clean drinking water and sustainable industry using ceramic water filters. (www.thirst-aid.org; www.pacificdiscovery.org)

Required reading

Lonely Planet: Myanmar (Burma) by Steven Martin,

and other tourist services (and all foreign operations) are partially owned by the government, so if you support them you are giving money to the dictatorship; try to choose local operators.

Safety concerns

Foreigners usually travel to Myanmar only with package trips, and they are closely monitored. Oddly, the brutal dictatorship of Myanmar makes the country fairly safe for visitors (some Americans even feel that in a strange way it’s one of the safest places they have ever visited) though deadly for native Burmese who have something to say about the way their country is run.

Recent demonstrations have been met with violence.

Many hotels, restaurants,

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Because travel in Myanmar is so closely monitored, it is more or less impossible to simply explore the wilds of the jungle nation. But that does’nt mean it’s void of adventure. The site here is the 320-foot-high golden Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon which, according to legend, King Okkalapa built 2,500 years ago to enshrine eight hairs of the Buddha. It’s a site that many Burmese wait their whole lives to see. Likewise the sprawling ruins of the ancient city of Bagan look like they came straight out of a Rudyard Kipling book and rival the more famous ruins of Angor Wat in Cambodia.

For true adventure head to Inle Lake in the mountains, where the Intha people paddle their fishing canoes with their feet and live in bamboo stilt houses.

Many tour groups offer

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Cave in central Serbia

Prokuplje, South Serbia Belgrade bike path

While the peaceful Velvet Revolution of the late 1980s and early 1990s freed most of Eastern Europe from Communism, it sent the republic of Yugoslavia into a spiral of war and genocide as diverse ethnic groups of Serbs, Croats, Muslim Bosniaks, and Albanians fought one another to create autonomous states. While the rest of Europe prospered in the 1990s, Serbia stood in the center of the war led by strongman dictator Slobodan Miloševic and was blamed as a perpetrator of ethnic cleansing. The Balkan state’s deep, tranquil mountains reverberated with mortar fire, and buildings constructed by Ottomans and Austrians lay in rubble. Since the war ended,

Croatia has blossomed (some might say it has been overrun) as a hot destination for American tourists seeking cheap prices and Mediterranean beaches.

But few venture into Serbia, which was opposed by the United States government during the war and bombed by NATO in 1999. That’s a shame because this is a mountainous paradise brimming with opportunities for cycling, hiking, paddling, skiing, snowboarding, and climbing—sans the high price of the euro and with the chance to explore a nation long off the map for North Americans.

Adventures

by film director and leader of the band the No Smoking Orchestra, Emir Kusturica.

The whitewater of the Kumanica and Sopotnica gorges lures paddlers and supports commercial rafting outfitters. The limestone of Grdoba near the city of Valjevo offers some great sport routes and the opportunity to work on new projects: you can tune up your skills and get beta from locals at the Hala Sportova bouldering and climbing gym in Belgrade. And in the winter, the resort of Kopaonik lures skiers and snowboarders.

reasonable prices—a weeklong cycling tour out of Niš runs about $800. (www.ace-adventurecentre. com; www.vekoltours.com)

Tours

Safety concerns

Serbia is a sport playground on the verge of being discovered. Its winding mountain roads that dip into local villages make for some amazing cycling, especially in the southeast part of the country around the city of Niš, where you can break up the riding with excursions into the bowels of Resavska Cave or a visit to the fortressed walls of the Manasija monastery. If you choose to try mountain biking near the northern village of Mokra Gora, you’ll find an enticing network of trails that have yet to be discovered by fat tires.

One quirky must-visit place to stay in the midst of a cycling trip is the village of Küstendorf (or Drvengrad), a traditional, wooden Serb village with modern flashes, including a cinema and a basketball court recently built

Vekol Tours specializes in adventure travel with whitewater trips on the Tara River and will create custom tours with an adventure focus. A.C.E. Cycling and Mountaineering Center offers bike trips at extremely

Required reading

Serbia: The Bradt Travel Guide by Laurence Mitchell (Bradt, 2007). Madness Visible: A Memoir of War by Janine Di Giovanni (Vintage, 2005) is stark eyewitness history of the war in the Balkans. It’s also worth seeing Emir Kusturica’s 1995 film Underground for an absurdist and very poignant national history.

with Kosovo, where tensions are rising once again and even U.S. government employees travel in armored vehicles. It’s also best to travel with a tour group in parts of the backcountry, as many land mines and unexploded ordinance from the war remain.

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Leaving My L

to Live It

Author Sarah Murray guides us through her decision to leave Nirvana (and her noble beast Maverick) in search of something more.

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Life

I.

I live a good life.

The sun shines some 300 days a year in the town where I’m a local. On most days I get outside to feel the warmth on my cheeks. And when I’m perfectly exhausted, friends meet me at a pub, where I’m received like family. A foamy head of laughter overflows onto the big, wooden tables and, on most nights, settles into deep talks.

My bike is made of carbon and, finally, my muffler is not attached by a hanger. I have a job with the Women’s Sports Foundation that pays me well and is easy on my conscience.

Sleep comes easily every night, with my partner holding me tightly around the middle. When we wake up, we don’t rush the day into action. No fighting traffic or job dread. We eat eggs, toast with our coffee mugs, and talk about which singletrack to enjoy before the sun sets.

Life is beautiful.

And I am leaving.

II.

Three years ago I wrote a feature story for this very magazine, called “The Aha Moment.” It was about five women who made seismic shifts in their lives in the name of personal growth. There was Dana Flynn, who left a vee-jay job with MTV to open a yoga studio, and Sally Taylor (James’s daughter), who started a nonprofit to help victims of landmines.

Each story of these “cowgirls of the moment” was more inspiring than the one before.

In all honesty, I didn’t write it for you.

That story was born out of a need to be inspired.

It was just about that time that I started grinding my teeth at night. The dentist wanted to mold me a mouth guard. To hell with the Band-Aid—I wanted to get to the root of it. Here was this laid-back hedonist getting all stressed out when my conscious mind surrendered. But why?

My childhood was tumultuous, filled with ups and downs that far outweighed my years. I lived in 16 different places by the time I was 16. When I had the opportunity to create my own reality after college, stability was paramount. For the past eight years, I have been in the same relationship, the same job, the same town, and, embarrassingly enough, wearing many of the same fleeces. My outdoor adventures were my stretch; everything else was consistent and familiar.

It finally hit me at 12,000 feet on a hut trip in Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness on my thirtieth birthday. I realized that I was grounded, and now that stability was strangling me. I could learn more, grow more, give more. I was coasting. Here I was, a woman with an ability to write, who was spending all day long editing the writing of others.

The girl who used to taunt change with an outstretched tongue was living in fear of leaving the comfort zone. Thriving, truly thriving, would require more than hut trips, triathlon training, and regularly scheduled promotions. What a cop-out!

Snap.

The epiphany was instant relief, in that sucker-punch-to-the-gut kind of way.

III.

Glory be the realization—but without a direction the inspiration was meaningless. What exactly did “more” mean?

For the next year, I tried to figure that out. I read books about taking a “gap year,” searched virtually every page on the Internet, became a horoscope hound, and flashed my soul to anyone willing to listen. Turns out the answer is not on Facebook.

The blueprint for this shift would need to be the homegrown sort.

And so I tapped into the veins of my existence and started to ask myself the big questions: What do I want to be doing every day? Why am I here on this earth? What makes me unique and valuable?

The answers came slowly and at the most unlikely times, inspired by song lyrics, snowboarding sessions, and teary conversations with my partner. I began to piece it together...

I need a timeout from the everydayathon, a break from expectation and the linear drive to succeed.

I have wanderlust.

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I am good at helping women and girls find their power through sports.

I need room to explore the untouched depths of my creativity; maybe I could be a documentarian, a banjo player, a spoken-word poet.

And the toughest part: these needs were uniquely mine, and only I could follow through on them.

On no particular day, those puzzle pieces all finally fit together. The vision just came to me. I would take all the airline miles I had accrued over the years and book a free round-the-world flight. I would get in touch with individuals and organizations helping to empower girls and women through sports and offer my services to them pro bono. I’d build websites, shoot and edit video, and get them networked online to increase exposure and, hopefully, funding. The route would be determined by where I could find organizations in need and where I could find brilliant adventures. I would drink coffee at odd times, play soccer with strangers in dusty lots, and surf breaks at the bottom of the world.

This was my “aha moment.”

And I bought it. And it fit. And I believed I could pull it off.

IV.

In one month I will sit by myself on a plane to South Africa.

I will cry. I will miss.

Excitement and fear seesaw constantly as the reality of this sets in, and I am working to embrace all of it, even the virulent pangs of questioning that haunt me. Why would I jeopardize my relationships; trade hikes in the Rockies for lonely nights in hostels; leave Maverick, my beloved big-hearted black Lab mix; willingly enter a state of financial rubble?

Despite the conflict, once I committed to the vision I instantly stopped grinding my teeth at night.

Getting honest with myself about this life change has been one thing; unfurling the concept to my family, my friends, and my raised-eyebrow colleagues has been an entirely different beast.

The time came to share the news with my co-workers at the Women’s Sports Foundation in New York about a month ago. As I stepped out of my hotel in Chelsea, gumption strapped tightly to my chest, I heard music. Literally. At seven 52 WA OAPR’2009”

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in the morning, a guy with an acoustic guitar walked right past me on this unlikely side street, singing his guts out.

An omen. Amen. This would be a good day.

The reception at the home office in New York was basically what I expected: a congratulatory celebration with a touch of that nightmare realization that you’ve gone to work naked. Bearing my soul to women who share my passion was a magic affirmation of having spent the past 10 years in this job.

Naturally, there were a few skeptics.

“What will you do when you get back?”

“You’re going alone?! Nutso.”

My defense for this line of questioning is dialed in. I listened, apprised them of the precautions I’m taking, and tried to gently quiet this vicarious fear that can most simply be understood by turning on the evening news. And it’s not just my coworkers. My mother’s husband insisted on spending Thanksgiving evening teaching me how to use a jacket as a shield in the event of a knife fight.

All the concern surely comes from a place of love. And maybe they do have a point. In my life I do take risks that many Americans choose not to take. And the deeper the challenge, the greater the jeopardy. But in my mind this is not a foolhardy way to live; I consider this the only way to live.

V.

There are but a handful of perfect days each year. This one was the fall kind— Aspens glowing, air so crisp it thrust deeper into my lungs than ever before.

With the trip looming, I went on a hike with my best friend, Maverick, and his gal pal, Mavis, a fluffy chow.

As I put one foot in front of the other, I considered again the heft of the decision to walk away, even temporarily, from this beautiful existence. Inhale.

Exhale. Who would put this dream of a life up for grabs?

Maverick and Mavis must have felt the perfect spirit of the day, too. Every critter or rustling leaf was fair game. Up the hillside with a sprint, back down to plop in the stream. For some reason I decided to let them completely go. I didn’t call them to come; I just let them be dogs and savor the day.

Five minutes after I decided to let them run free, Maverick had a heart attack. Instantly, without pain, he lay down and made that his last hike. In shock three rangers and I, like pallbearers, car-

ried him out of the woods on a stretcher, yellow leaves carpeting our walk, tree branches forming a canopy overhead.

Maverick had always possessed a Buddha-like calm and wisdom. He was truly enlightened. On that day he taught me a lesson of impermanence. Just as I let him run free, he too gave me the permission to do the same.

VI.

Order the video camera online. Stop my gym membership. Research permits for getting into Tibet. Write this article.

My plane leaves Denver International Airport in exactly 34 days. My itinerary callously reminds me that in two months I will be in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, and, in four, Lima, Peru. I am two paychecks away from unemployment during the worst economic downturn in decades.

But let’s be honest: the world has woes greater than Wall Street’s.

Days seem to be defined by checkedoff items on the to-do list, last-minute this and that’s, and emotional conversations.

My sister announces she is pregnant— due two weeks after I return to the States. I practice yoga constantly, trying to keep a tight grasp on The Power of Now. Eckhart Tolle is losing the battle.

As I count down to this self-inflicted personal upheaval, all I know to do is commit to feeling—the butterflies in my stomach, the pride in my shoulders, the enormity of my potential. So many people go through their lives afraid of failure and new tastes. That will not be me. I will gulp hard and plunge into this fear like I would a cold ocean wave that rips the breath out of my body. I will embrace all the new beauty that is before me. I will open my heart to the possibility of becoming more fulfilled than I have ever been in my life.

If not for the richness of feeling, why live at all?

Follow Sarah’s journey and the Girls’ Sports Media Project at www.sarahjmurray.com.

Previous page: The late Maverick Photos from left to right: Sarah at the Cape of Good Hope, South Africa; Vinyard road, South Africa; Cape of Good Hope; Stone Town, Zanzibar; Girls in Stone Town; Team Tesfa training in Ethiopia; Team Naftech in Ethiopia heading home after practice; Outsole in a training field; Girl in Addis Ababa. womensadventuremagazine.com

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The Spring Before you head out to revamp your wicking wardrobe or upgrade to a new road bike, you’ll want to peruse and save this special section.

Why? Over the past six months, Women’s Adventure has tested more than 1,000 products (many newly launched spring items) and selected the best of the best for this issue.

We’ve done the research. Now all you have to do is shop and play!

Edited by Karina Evertsen Photography by Corrynn Cochran 54 WA OAPR’2009”

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BH Cristal “Fast and sexy!” “Fits like a glove.” Those were just two of the comments this bike received from testers. BH is a Spanish company you may not be familiar with, but they’ve been around for 100 years, building bikes that have won pro races in Europe for decades. The Cristal was born for speed, not for all-day comfort. Rock solid on the straightaways with sharp, precise handling, the Cristal may just be, as one competitive racer said, “the first women’s-specific bike I’ve tried that gets really serious about winning— finally!” You’ll love it if you want to stay ahead in races or on shorter, more competitive rides. And watch out on windy days—you just might take flight.

Price: Ultegra $3,799; Dura-Ace $6,399. Weight: 14.8 pounds (53 cm without pedals). www.bhbikes-us.com Ellsworth Scant You’ll be in for a quick, frisky ride on the Ellsworth Scant. It is the only road bike in our lineup with a scandium-aluminum alloy frame. You’ll like that feature if you find that full-carbon mutes the ride too much, but this one is by no means rough. The wheelbase is more than an inch shorter than most of the other bikes featured here, meaning it leans more toward speed and acceleration than stability. The Scant is definitely race-worthy, built for speed and acceleration and riding away in a race-winning, head-down position.

Price: Frame/fork only $1,999; complete bike $3,900. Weight: 2.8 pounds (frame/fork only); ~16 pounds (complete bike). www.ellsworthbikes.com Look 566 This was a favorite ride for our testers who preferred a more aggressive, racier position in their bike. The 566 is Look’s entry-level road bike; it has a head tube that’s taller than Look’s higher-end models (to increase comfort), but you’ll still get this bike to really take off thanks to the stiffness of its frame. Our testers reported a fairly low level of road vibration—perfect for long, fast rides. If you prefer a women’s-specific fit, the 566 might not be for you; the frame is a traditional geometry that may have some women feeling a bit stretched out in the torso.

Price: Frame only $1,999; complete bike: SRAM Rival $2,699. Shimano Ultegra $3,199 Weight: 18 pounds (55 cm). www.lookcycle-usa.com

Specialized Ruby Comp Compact The Ruby Comp strikes a nice balance between eager acceleration and carbon cushioning. With this frame—you won’t feel uneven asphalt. If you’ve been riding a unisex bike and experiencing discomfort in your neck, or had to shorten your stem so you can reach the handlebars, do yourself a huge favor and test-ride this women’s-specific frame. Our testers felt the Ruby was a “little slow on the uphills,” and the positioning may be slightly more upright than some prefer, but all-day rides will be a pleasure with the level of comfort the bike delivers.

Price: $2,700. Weight: 18 pounds (54 cm). www.specialized.com Trek Madone 6.5 WSD Want to wander the wine country on a 50-mile ride or crank it up and win a sprint in a friendly competition? No problem! This bike sports a relaxed upright position, women’s-specific saddle, and bump-eating carbon frame, stem, and seat post. And Trek’s Project One program offers a choice of paint colors, components, and even cable colors, allowing you to enjoy customization and adjust the price tag. One tester raved, “Light, climbs like a fiend, rockets down descents, stable, and fantastically comfortable.”

Price: $6,930 stock (price varies if the bike is Project One). Weight: 15.7 pounds (54 cm). www.trekbikes.com

Cannondale Synapse Carbon Féminine 4 (left) The Synapse Féminine 4 gets our vote for the most versatile bike in our roadie lineup. For just under $2,500, you can ride an almost perfect blend of comfort and speed with SRAM’s Rival drive train. The Synapse never felt sluggish or unresponsive and climbs and descends with ease and control—in part because of a wider handlebar. This wasn’t the lightest bike in our lineup, but, as one rider put it, “It rides lighter than it weighs.” By the way, we were wowed by the beautiful blue paint job too!

Price: $2,450. Weight: 17 pounds (54 cm). www.cannondale.com WA OAPR’2009”

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1. Look KéO Elle Pedals If you’re ready to take the “clipless” pedal plunge, Look pedals are a great choice. Yes, the Elle is women's-specific largely thanks to color, but adjustable spring tension makes releasing a little easier for lighter-weight riders, too. KéOs provide a larger platform to clip into, preventing hot spots on your feet, and the rubbery cleats make dismounting easy and less damaging to floors.

2. Shebeest S-cut Jersey Print

3. Pearl Izumi P.R.O. Bib Short

We had a slew of gorgeous jerseys that really delivered, but the S-cut stood out in the fit department. This jersey moves with you in every direction and doesn't ride up at the hem. Period. It’s got a nice length for taller women and features X-static fabric technology with silver, neutralizing odor and keeping your body temp regulated whatever the weather. XS–XL.

One tester said these bibs were as close to riding naked as you could get. If you haven’t already tried bib shorts, these should be at the top of your wish list. Although bibs are a little harder to slip out of at potty breaks, they have no waist constriction at all and you can take deep breaths without any problem.

Featuring Pearl Izumi's very comfortable PRO 3-D chamois. XS–XL.

$70. www.shebeest.com

$150. www.pearlizumi.com

$119. www.lookcycle-usa.com

4. Tifosi Scout Sunglasses $60. www.tifosioptics.com 5. Giordana Silverline Gloves $20. www.gitabike.com 6. Rudy Project Zuma Helmet $115. www.rudyprojectusa.com 7. Gore Xenon Lady Jacket $190. www.gorebikewear.com 8. DeFeet Aireators $10. www.defeet.com 9. Diadora Speedracer Shoes $120. www.cannondale.com 56 WA OAPR’2009”

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Cannondale Féminine Rush If you’ve just been bit by the mountain-biking bug, the Rush won’t disappoint. It’s attractively priced and outfitted with good components, so you’re set to explore dirt roads or not-too-technical singletrack. “This bike has excellent pedal stroke and power transfer as well as very smooth shifting,” said our tester. It’s a great all-around bike that rides consistently on uphill and downhill terrain, with a solid suspension system and 5 inches of travel.

The only drawback is that it’s a bit on the heavy side, but not so much that it’ll make a difference on a beginner-level ride.

Price: $1,440. Weight: 27 pounds. www.cannondale.com Giant Cypher 1 Without a doubt the Cypher 1 is a top choice in the bang-for-your-buck category. Every one of our testers liked this bike. “The weight of the bike was ideal—light, but with just enough substance to keep me grounded over the technical terrain.” With more travel in the suspension system, climbing can be more difficult, but the Cypher 1 performed perfectly when needed.

It got a thumbs-up for being comfortable while not sacrificing agility on tight corners, giving a “liquid” ride over bumpy roots and babyhead rocks.

One tester called her ride over a rocky trail “butter.” Another went out and bought one after our test weekend.

Price: $2,900. Weight: 26.6 pounds. www.giantbicycles.com Pivot Mach 5 XT As its name indicates, this bike is fast. The Mach 5 (5.5 inches of travel) is built to reduce downhill sections to nothing but fun, taking on tight handling around corners as well as technical terrain. The shifting stood out for our riders, who appreciated being able to change gears by pushing forward or back. Despite the stiff ride, the Mach 5 delivers the “perfect balance of maneuverability and stability.” One drawback that all our riders mentioned was that the rear brakes were too “grabby” and made slowing down awkward, especially at high speeds.

Price: $4,399. Weight: 26 pounds. www.pivotcycles.com

Specialized Safire Elite The first word that comes to mind with the Safire is comfort. With geometry that has you in a more upright stance, this is a great pick for all-around mountain riding. Because you are set toward the rear of the bike, climbing didn’t come as easily as with some of the others. It got rated well on the downhills, with most testers saying they had more confidence on those sections of trail due to stability and handling. As one tester observed, “it rolled right over boulders and roots at slow uphill speeds and turned quickly on downhill switchbacks.”

Price: $3,100. Weight: 23.6 pounds. www.specialized.com

Trek Top Fuel 9.8 WSD One of the first nuggets of feedback that we got on this bike was that “it demands to be ridden fast.” The Top Fuel 9.8 brings together, geometry and performance, creating a mountain bike for competitors and experienced riders. Designed with a longer top tube and a shorter head tube than some other women’s-specific bikes, the Top Fuel 9.8 places your body in an aggressive position. All our riders agreed that it is a powerhouse on the uphill and is precise and easy to control on the downhills. As one tester put it, “I felt like I had just hopped aboard a rocket ship.”

Price: $4,949. Weight: 23.1 pounds. www.trekbikes.com Ellsworth Project Pink Epiphany (previous page) The Epiphany is a perfect choice if your skills have outgrown your current bike. Handcrafted from the wheels to the frame, every detail is a work of art, and it rides that way too. With 5.25 inches of travel and an upright position, this bike handles a vast variety of terrain, smoothing out whatever you roll over (if you even notice it). In fact, one rider said, “Downhills are superfun, the suspension soaks up everything I had the courage to throw at it.” Also, $50 goes to Susan G. Komen for the Cure.

Price: X9 Build $4499. Weight: 5.5 pounds (frame only) www.ellsworthbikes.com 58 WA OAPR’2009”

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7 1. Specialized Propero Helmet. $110. www.specialized.com 2. Descente Shelter Jacket. $200. www.descenteathletic.com 3. RaceFace Fersey Blossom Jersey $55. www.raceface.com 4. Julbo Run Glasses. $120–$160 (depending on lens). www.julbousa.com 5. Dakine Girls Nomad Pack. $95. www.dakine.com 6. Harlot Houlihan Shorts. $70. www.harlotwear.com 7. Kona XC Gloves $35. www.konaworld.com 8. Sock Guy Socks. $9.95. www.sockguy.com 9. Sidi Dominator 5’s. $299. www.sidiusa.com WA OAPR’2009”

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Brooks Infiniti 2 Easy on the road and on your conscience. The patented BioMoGo midsole on the Infinity 2 keeps its cushy feel mile after mile and also degrades in the landfill at 50 times the rate of your typical EVA. Hydroflow (encapsulated fluid pads) in the heel and the forefoot dampens the beating of excessive mileage. Half-milers and marathoners will appreciate the energy return. Our testers raved, “I could run forever in these shoes.” For neutral to moderate pronators. $125. www.brooksrunning.com

Asics GEL-Kayano 15 For 15 years and running, literally, the GELKayano remains a perennial favorite for serious runners. How do you improve on perfection? Update to an asymmetrical lacing system for a better fit (your foot is asymmetrical too) and a lighter midsole. Great for long training runs or races, with enough stability to guide the foot through a natural gait. Testers say, “Supercomfortable fit. Felt broken in within 10 minutes.” $140. www.asics.com

Saucony ProGrid Triumph 6 The Triumph is a sweet ride for neutral runners. Comfortable, energetic, and lightweight, it neatly absorbs the impact of concrete and pavement. Arch-Lock provides exceptional fit through the midfoot, and heel-strikers will benefit from the SRC Impact Zone, a patented technology that takes road shock and transfers it to forward motion. Hit the road. Train. Testers say, “fast and light without sacrificing a single thing.” $125. www.saucony.com

New Balance 769 ST For overpronators this shoe is the bomb.

Plus, it’s actually cute, instead of coming off like a “special shoe.” The curved, padded tongue fits anatomically to the top of the foot, and the wavy lacing system adds a feminine touch while actually providing some welcome function (the waves give traction in the eyelets so you essentially are cinching them up). Relieved tester said, “my flat feet couldn’t roll to the inside. Good-bye hip and ankle pain.” $100. www.newbalance.com

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Vasque Momenta This historic hiking-boot company introduces another solid trail-running shoe. The Momenta is built for speed, with an anatomy that propels the runner forward. Testers say, “great on scree and stable on big rocks,” with a wider forefoot and heel counter. If you race or train short to middle-distance routes, the Momenta will put you in front of the pack. $105. www.vasque.com

New Balance WT875 Our pick for women who prefer the fit and the comfort of traditional road-running shoes when they go off-road. These lightweight trail-runners have exceptional cushioning as well as midsole and skeletal support you won’t notice until you need it. The aggressively rugged outsole and straight last keep you stable on uneven terrain and, as on tester put it, “protect you from feeling every rock and twig.” $100. www.newbalance.com

The North Face Voza The Voza transitions from road to trail and back again with ease. Our testers loved its simplicity and light weight. Even though the Voza sports clean lines, it responds with performance and endurance for the long haul.

And no matter how much you sweat, your shoes will remain smell-free because of the AgION antimicrobial silver that’s woven into the top layer of the Northotic (ergonomically designed) foot bed. Best for slightly wider feet. $95. www.thenorthface.com

Salomon XT Wings GTX W Get maximum all-terrain gear for your feet.

Whether you’re on dirt, mud, snow, scree, rocks, or asphalt, these babies perform with agility and stability. The thoughtful design includes a Gore-Tex–wrapped toe, quick-drying (stylish) and breathable mesh weave, and a single-pull lacing system akin to those found on snowboard boots. Testers raved, “lots of bells and whistles. An all-wheel drive SUV for serious trail runners.” $120. www.salomonrunning.com

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1. Descente Thermal Deluxe Hoodie This layer must have a thermostat because it regulates body temperature from warm to cool and back again. We loved the thoughtful blanket-soft Microfleece interior, the hand-warming cuffs, hidden zipper MP3 pocket, breathable/wicking underarm panels, and superstylish trim patterns. $89.95. www.descente.com

2. CamelBak Annedel. $45. www.camelbak.com 3. Tifosi DEA Sunglasses. $59.95. www.tifosioptics.com 4. Brooks Pacer Sport Tank. $40. www.brooksrunning.com 5. Polar FT40 Heart Rate Monitor. $180. www.polarusa.com 6. Brooks PR Mesh Skort. $42. www.brooksrunning.com 7. Amphipod Handheld Pocket. $17. www.amphipod.com 8. Pearl Izumi Chase Splice Knicker. $55. www.pearlizumi.com 62 WA OAPR’2009”

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9. Marmot Crystalline Jacket If there’s a lighter waterproof (seam-sealed) jacket on the market, we haven’t found it. At just 6.5 ounces, you can take this jacket everywhere and never miss a run because of wind or rain. $130. www.marmot.com

10. Rossignol Sundance Tank in Cocoa. $35. www.rossignol.com 11. Zeal Tensai. $130. www.zealoptics.com 12. Patagonia Multi-Use Skirt. $55. www.patagonia.com 13. Fox River Mills Driven Ultra Light Weight Socks. $9. www.foxsox.com 14. Garmin Forerunner 405 Watch. $300. www.garmin.com 15. Marmot Vogue Tank. $45. www.marmot.com 16. Moving Comfort Cool Run Short. $34. www.movingcomfort.com WA OAPR’2009”

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The North Face Minibus 2 The North Face has put a great deal of thought and effort into customizing the best pole-and-pitching system out there with this three-season tent. A series of innovative clips and hubs connect to provide an astonishing amount of headroom as well as plenty of space for storage and organization.

Pockets and gear loops abound, and the color-coded clips and poles making pitching a cinch. Big doors on both sides offer easy access in and out.

Strap on the rain fly to ward off the weather and keep all your gear dry in the enormous vestibules on either side. A funky bus window lets you see out of the highly waterproof canopy. The one con: it’s a bit heavy for the backcountry, weighing in at 6 pounds 12 ounces. $389. www.thenorthface.com 64 WA OAPR’2009”

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Marmot EcoPro 15 So you want to decrease your carbon footprint without sacrificing performance? This synthetic bag is rated for just below 30o and has all the bells and whistles you’re looking for. EcoPro’s shell and liner are both made of recycled materials. With pull-tabs both inside and out, you can unzip in the middle of the night without fumbling.

It has a slightly larger toe box area for wiggle room down by your feet and a highly water resistant shell to keep you dry. This bag weighs in at 2 pounds 13 ounces and will keep you toasty through some pretty cold and wet conditions. $165. www.marmot.com

Exped Ibis WB The Swiss take things seriously, and there was no exception when it came to designing this three-season bag. Rated for a blustry 20o, the 750-fill goose down Ibis is the perfect choice if you are looking for a waterproof bag for cooland wet-weather use. Our testers really liked the storm flap over the zipper that keeps the weather at bay. You’ll get a bit of extra weight and bulk as a result of the bomber construction and the nylon material featured on both the shell and the stuff sack, but it’s well worth it if your goal is to stay dry on your next adventure. $400. www.outdoorresearch.com

REI Halo 25 REI’s Down Fill Calculator gets it right, again.

With 750-fill goose down, this 31-ounce bag is comfort-rated to 25o making it perfect for early spring backpacking. A favorite among testers for its water-repellent shell, full-length draft protection along its zipper, and an exterior chest pocket (a close-at-hand stash spot for a headlamp or lip balm) this bag’s features include sleeping pad loops that will help keep even squirmy sleepers off the ground. $259 www.rei.com

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Gregory Jade 25

Osprey Aura 50 Pack

Stuff all your essentials into this go-anywhere daypack. One large chamber holds all your goods. There’s a pocket for an internal hydration bladder, an inner mesh one for stashing the small stuff, and a front stretchy pouch to hold a helmet or layers you want to have on hand. Two stretch side pockets house water bottles and snacks. The waist belt and the shoulder straps are designed for a comfortable fit, and a suspension system on the back distributes the weight evenly and allows for maximum ventilation. This basic, everyday backpack is functional, comfortable, and just technical enough to take anywhere.

Available in three torso sizes and with a women’s-specific shoulder harness, almost anyone can find a good fit in this 3-day top-loader.

With 20 pounds in tow, testers loved the lightweight suspension system that evenly distributed weight and the waffle-foam hip belt and shoulder straps that save ounces without sacrificing comfort and cushioning. Though there’s plenty of room for a weekend trip—3,000 cubic inches inside, stretchy front and side pockets, sleeping-bag straps and loops for ice tools or extra gear—you can use handy cinch straps to reign it in for day hikes, too.

$129. 2 pounds 13 ounces; 1,525 cubic inches. www.gregorypacks.com

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$199. 3 pounds 6 ounces; 3,000 cubic inches. www.ospreypacks.com

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Mountainsmith Scarlet

Arc’teryx Briza 62

Think storage. This basic and simple multiday pack is every organizer’s dream. When you have a place for everything, it makes everything easy to find. The front pocket contains internal compartments for all the small stuff, one of which is fleece lined specifically to keep glasses scratch-free. A clear sleeve on the inside of the removable lid held our map for quick reference on our treks, and we could easily reach our water bottles from the two side pockets even when the pack was on. An internal pocket holds a hydration bladder, and a separate compression compartment holds the sleeping bag; compression straps hold the sleeping pad in place with quick-release clips. There is also room for an ice ax or trekking poles. Our favorite feature: the pack is made from 100 percent recycled fabric.

When it comes to gearing up for an expedition, this pack has everything you’ll need. Internal compartments house your sleeping bag and hydration bladder. A large front kangaroo pocket keeps clothing handy and could also separate rain-drenched gear from the pack’s dry interior. Remove the lid and—voila!—you have a fanny pack great for a day excursion from camp. Two side pouches provide easy access to food and water. Technical features include two daisy chains, ice ax loops, and wand pockets. Even fully loaded, the pack fits perfectly with its super-padded waistband and shoulder straps.

Other great features are the durable water-repellent nylon, watertight zippers to keep your goods dry (easy to use even with mittens on), and an option for a custom-fit waistband.

$179. 4 pounds 7 ounces; 3,082 cubic inches. www.mountainsmith.com

$350. 5 pounds 12 ounces; 4,390 cubic inches. www.arcteryx.com

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Katadyn Micro Bottle Meeting EPA standards for the removal of giardia and bacteria, this 21 ounce bottle provides one of the easiest ways to filter your water. A simple cartridge system fits with the accompanying water bottle. Fill up the bottle, insert the filter, and tighten down. Flush the system before your first sip, or you’re in for a mouthful of the carbon taste. The Micro is best suited for shorter day hikes, but can be used on long trips where water is abundant. Each replacable filter is good for 26 gallons of safe-to-drink water. $40. www.katadyn.us

Katadyn Hiker PRO The Hiker Pro kicks out water at about a liter per minute. What makes this filter stand out is the fact that it’s superdurable for those of you who are rough on your gear. Our testers liked the hydration pack adapters, which make filling them much easier. It weighs a mere 11 ounces, which is a huge plus when you’re looking to go light.

We suggest learning how to use it before you hit the trail (it’s not too difficult, but it’s better to be prepared). $80. www.katadyn.us

SteriPEN JourneyLCD Purifier If you’re headed overseas—or anywhere you feel you might need extra backup in the water safety department—the JourneyLCD should make its way into your bag. It purifies filtered or tap water in seconds, using ultraviolet light to kill off little buggers like cryptosporidium as well as viruses and bacteria. The easy-to-read LCD screen lets you know when the water is ready and how much more water you can purify, and this mid-size version can be used along with the SteriPEN’s classic Pre-filter. $100. www.steripen.com

MSR Sweetwater Purifier System The Sweetwater system is tried, tested, and even used for many years by one of our editors. Different colored hoses eliminate confusion about which end provides clean water and there’s an adapter to help fill wide-mouth bottles.

This field-cleanable “system” comes packaged with 80 gallons-worth of a chlorine-based purification solution that offers extra protection and peace of mind. $90. www.msrgear.com

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1. GSI Pinnacle Dualist

2. Optimus Crux Lite Stove

Here’s our pick for durable, nonstick cookware that accommodates two in the backcountry. This BPA-free setup includes a 1.8-liter pot with a strainer lid, two 20-ounce insulated mugs with sip lids, two 20-ounce bowls, two utensils, and a welded stuff sack that can also be used as a sink. We love that each cup, bowl, and utensil is color coded so you know which one is yours. All containers fit snugly into the pot, and a folding handle locks the lid in place.

Meet the little backpacking stove that could. Lightweight and efficient, it fits in the palm of your hand. This baby can boil a liter of water in less than four minutes. Although it does not fold down as small as its counterpart, the Optimus Crux (the immobile joint saves 21 grams), this lighter version retains the adjustable simmer knob for heat control.

We’ve found that the flame burns well in cold conditions at high elevations and stays lit even when the wind picks up. Inside the accompanying stuff sack, it packs so small you risk losing it.

$60. www.gsioutdoors.com

$40. www.optimus.se

3. National Geographic Trails Illustrated Maps (available in 65 titles). $9.95. www.natgeomaps.com 4. Leatherman Juice XE 6. $106. www.leatherman.com WA OAPR’2009”

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Kayland Convert W Get ready for multiday treks in absolute comfort.

As beefy as these boots are, our testers found plenty of cushion to soften the impact of a tough hike. The waterproof suede upper held up to mud puddles and branch snags perfectly, and the reinforced toe offered bomber protection for unexpected rocks and roots. The Convert W supports your feet beautifully under the weight of a heavy pack, alleviating fatigue. The only caveat: at 2.4 pounds per pair, they may be a bit heavy for a casual day hike. $200. www.kayland.com

Scarpa Nangpala GTX Lady Here is a great choice for low mileage, two- to three-day backpacking trips. The beauty of these boots is that no break-in is needed—they are great right out of the box. The Nangpala GTX are pretty flexible but still give ample ankle and foot bed support. The Gore-Tex lining kept our hikers’ feet dry in even the wettest conditions, and the sticky Vibram sole prevented slippage on wet rocks. The only bummer is it is geared more toward those with narrow feet. $175. www.scarpa.com

Asolo Omni GV ML The Omni is a form-fitting approach shoe that we ended up wearing as our day hikers. There’s enough support with these shoes to carry a bit of a load on your back, and the roomy toe box got a thumbs-up from our crew. The Gore-Tex upper keeps moisture out and is well insulated to keep your feet warm yet—to our surprise—more breathable than any other we tried. The Vibram sole provided sticky traction and a firm grip on rocks, scree, and trail. $130. www.asolo.com

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1. Rossignol Uintas Shirt. $45. www.rossignol.com 2. Isis Cassandra Pant. $119. www.isisforwomen.com 3. Ibex Scoop T. $75. www.ibex.com 4. Leki Poles Aeragon Diva. $139.95. www.leki.com 5. Bridgedale Women’s Endurance Trekker Sock. $9. www.bridgedale.com 6. Salomon Vertigo Shorts. $45. www.salomonsports.com WA OAPR’2009”

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Bell Northwind Canoe Sexy, sporty, and stable—sorry, ladies, it’s a canoe. Bell canoes are a true blend of performance and beauty. Beginners and advanced paddlers alike will appreciate how effortlessly they paddle. Kids, dogs, cooler, weekend or weeklong trips—at 17 feet 6 inches and 51 pounds, the Northwind can handle it all, with an optimal load capacity of 350 to 650 pounds. Although the initial stability of the shallow arch hull may feel a little loose to the novice paddler, don’t be fooled; the canoe actually feels more stable when moving and is exceptional in rough conditions. Beginners will grow into the feel, and advanced paddlers will love its nimble nature. $2,974. www.bellcanoe.com Epic Relaxed Touring Paddle When paddle shopping remember that lighter is better, and this 23 oz., carbon fiber featherweight paddle is one of the best around. This classic touring-style blade sports a length-lock system that allows you to break down the paddle into two pieces and enables you to adjust the paddle length up to 10 centimeters. So change boats, change paddlers, or just change your mind. $479. www.epickayaks.com Necky Eliza Kayak The Necky Eliza was born from female paddlers looking for comfort, fit, and performance in a lightweight package. A low-profile deck and an ergonomic cockpit design grant better contact, while more room in the hips accommodates the female form. A shorter cockpit length allows for easy installation and removal of the spray skirt. On the water the Eliza is a balance of stability, tracking, and maneuverability in all conditions. At 15 feet 3 inches and 22 inches wide, the polyethylene model weighs in at 49 pounds (easily car-topped solo). Perfect for the small to medium-sized paddler for day or weekend trips. $1,449. www.neckykayaks.com Sawyer Kai Paddle Beyond beautiful, available and renewable, bamboo offers a weight-to-strength ratio stronger than graphite. The Sawyer Kai uses bamboo (carbon-reinforced in the shaft) coupled with ash laminates in the blade to maximize strength, flexibility, and efficiency in one gorgeous, 20-ounce package. $160. www.paddlesandoars.com Waterman Stand-up Paddle Board Stand-up paddling is an ancient Hawaiian sport reborn. With its origins in the surf culture, it has broadened its following to flat-water touring and river running as well. The 12-foot Holoholo is a flat-water cruiser designed with the efficiency of a racing paddleboard and the stability of a cruiser. Glide effortlessly on a coastal tour, your favorite lake, or a meandering river. With its double concave hull, the Holoholo will track straight and handle wind, waves, or currents with ease. One of our favorite features is the unique “easy strap” carrying system that utilizes your paddle as a carry handle, making it supereasy to transport. $1,867 (includes fins and deck pad). www.c4waterman.com Werner Carve Paddle For stand-up paddling, Werner’s Carve is a premium fiberglass paddle with a long and slender blade that offers a smooth and balanced forward stroke. The 7.3-inch blade allows for a higher cadence of paddling while still being gentle on your joints. The ABS palm-style grip and the oval index shaft offer comfort in hand and great control. For all-day touring and fitness paddling, this is a great choice.

1-piece $219; adjustable $259; 2-piece $234. www.wernerpaddles.com Wilderness Systems Tsunami 120: This boat is categorized as “transitional touring” and received our nod for a number of reasons. If you are just getting into paddling or are the casual enthusiast, the Tsunami is easy to manage on the water. Although not “women’s-specific” it is designed for the smaller paddler with a slimmer depth and scaled down cockpit (25.5 inches in width). It is a bit heavy at 53 pounds but that is normal for the category and materials used in construction. $995 www.wildernesssystems.com 72 WA OAPR’2009”

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womensadventuremagazine.com

It’s a different style of outdoor adventure.

Set foot, wheel, rod, ski or paddle on a Women’s Wilderness Adventure, and you initiate an experience that’s uniquely your own.

Our trips are designed for the way women like to learn and play. Join us for an unforgettable vacation in Colorado, Wyoming or Utah.

Backcountry Skiing & Snowboarding Wilderness Yoga Retreats Mountain Biking Rock Climbing River Trips Creative Retreats and so much more.

Get inspired. womenswilderness.org 303.938.9191

© 2008 The Women’s Wilderness Institute

Photo: Karen High

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1. Pelican 1020 Micro Case

2. Astral Bella PFD

3. Kaenon Polarized Baton Sunglasses

Pelican cases are a must on any paddling adventure. With infinite possibilities for use and more sizes than you can imagine, these watertight, crush-proof cases can stow your camera, cell phone, iPod, GPS— whatever you take with you on the water.

The Micro series offers perfect protection for all your precious cargo.

The Astral Bella is truly innovative. We like it so much that this is the second time it’s made our cut (we featured this beauty in our July issue’s “Fresh from the Field”).

With a built-in sports bra, independent buoyancy panels, internal back band, and PVC-free foam, this PFD is a perfect blend of design and function. The independent panels move with you to offer maximum mobility to accommodate the shorter torsos of many women. The internal back band hugs your back and provides welcome support for all-day paddling.

Show your eyes some love on the water.

Kaenon Polarized offers a soothing solution to that all-day glare. Its proprietary SR-91 lens material lets you have it all, with the clarity of glass and the shatter resistance of polycarbonate. These shades offer up a truly distortion-free view of the world, and their style will have you looking your best on and off the water—though they’re available in six colors, we loved the Ocean Reef finish of this pair. If only everything in life could be so clear.

$18 and up. www.pelican.com

$209. www.kaenon.com

$157. www.astralbouyancy.com

4. Seatlle Sports Dry Bags $34-$50. www.seattlesportsco.com 74 WA OAPR’2009”

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womensadventuremagazine.com

Photo: Nick Hall

CHASING ADVENTURE From day and weekend trips to expeditions and extended excursions, the TSUNAMI touring and sea kayak series delivers all the tracking, stability and responsiveness you need. Offered in a wide range of models, you’ll find the perfect size, overall fit, and premium Phase 3 outfitting for the ultimate in comfort.

See our entire 2009 product line and discover why our obsession for better performance, finer materials and unmatched comfort produces kayaks that are widely considered the most satisfying paddling experience in the sport.

Recipient of WOMEN’S ADVENTURE magazine’s 2009 Editor’s Choice Award

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Musings

Just because you’re not paranoid, doesn’t mean they’re not out to get you.

- Colin Sautar

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Advertorial

Spring Product Guide

The ride you want, the way you want it with a look that expresses “me.�

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Women’s Adventure (ISSN 1945-1946), Volume 7, Issue 2, April 2009, is published bi-monthly - Feb, Apr, Jun, Aug, Oct, Dec - for $17.95 per year by Big Earth Publishing, 1637 Pearl Street, Suite 201, Boulder, CO 80302-5447. Periodicals Postage paid at Boulder, CO. Canada Agreement# 40063731. Returns to: Pitney Bowes IMS, Station A, PO Box 54, Windsor, ON N9A 6J5. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Women’s Adventure, PO Box 408, Mount Morris, IL 61054-0408.

Advertorial

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Editorial

Bad Journalism The polar bear alongside the boat makes a low chuffing sound. He dives to escape us. Each time he surfaces, he moves farther into open water, farther from land. A few passengers ask our guide, Wally, if we’re stressing the bear. I don’t hear his answer. I’m too busy kneeling low on the deck with my Canon. I stretch out one hand. The bear swims just beneath it, and he’s magnificent.

What little I know about polar bears I’ve learned through the media. Polar bears can swim more than 60 miles without rest, but they also can drown. This time of year (August), they are usually fasting, conserving calories until the ice forms and allows them to hunt seals again. Climate change means that the ice melts sooner in the spring and freezes later in the winter. Only after I’ve clicked off about 100 images does it occur to me that Wally might be chasing this bear because of me. I’m with a travel magazine. I’m worse than global warming. I’m a journalist.

Guilt’s a heavy souvenir, and I take it home with me.

Immediately after I take my seat, Wally tries to herd the bear back toward shore, using the boat like a cattle dog on a ranch. But the bear is labored and confused and only wants to get away from us. There’s no land in sight. We leave him adrift in Hudson Bay. Guilt’s a heavy souvenir, and I take it home with me. Every time I look at the images from Churchill, Manitoba, I get a sick feeling. The only thing that would make me feel better is to know that my bear made it home, too. But I don’t get to know that. I get to live with the knowledge that my overexuberance might have cost this bear his life or, at the very least, pissed him off.

It’s been five months since that trip. I

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write up this editorial and show it to my assistant editor. She has lots of questions. Aren’t there laws against a guide bringing tourists that close to a polar bear? Shouldn’t Wally be reported?

How can tourists find reputable guides for similar trips?

I e-mail Wally, expressing my concern— as I should have on his boat last summer. His response makes me feel better (see entire letter posted on our website at womensadventuremagazine. com). First of all, Wally loves polar bears and is heavily involved with the researchers and the Manitoba conservationists who track the bears’ health and well-being. Polar bears living in estuaries (such as the Seal River off Hudson Bay) continue to eat throughout the summer because seals and beluga whales remain plentiful and easy for the bears to hunt from large boulders and tidal pools. They don’t need the ice to land their prey. These polar bears,

A polar bear swimming in Hudson Bay, Manitoba

Wally writes, “contrary to international media reports, are not in dire straits.”

Researchers from the Canadian Wildlife Service have spotted bears for days at a time more than 30 miles offshore. The guideline for tour boats, which Wally helped set, is a maximum of 10 passes on each side. And he maintains that the bears are not scared of people at all. They are curious and, because of their frequent visits to town, they’re apt to land in the famous Churchill Polar Bear Jail. It takes cracker shells or bird bombs to keep them out of trouble.

I’m guessing that my bear made it home, but I still feel like an intruder at best. The bear did not seek me out.

And when he tried to get away, I chased him. It may have been legal—a common practice even—and may have caused no harm to the bear, but it crossed a line for me. And the photos I carry from that trip will serve as a reminder that just because I can do something doesn’t mean I should.

-Michelle Theall womensadventuremagazine.com

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