November 2008 Women's Adventure Magazine

+ realize.thenorthface.com

Hilaree O’Neill

| Gasherbrum II, Karakoram Range | Photo: Kristoffer Erickson

Photo: Michelfelder Š2008

Lynsey Dyer riding the Scratch Girl BC in Kicking Horse, BC With the new Girl BC, Lynsey has the confidence to attack every line no matter the snow conditions. Backcountry airs, bottomless pow or an in-bounds cirque session, the Scratch Girl BC is the ultimate women's backcountry tool.

FEATURES

34

So, You Think You’ve Got What It Takes to Make the U.S. Bobsled Team?

Get prepared for the longest minute of your life: enthusiasm, determination, and brute force will get you there—or not.

By Vanessa Pierce

Last Outpost 40 The The woman who started and runs the Everest Base Camp Medical Clinic is neither an elite climber nor an adrenaline junkie. She’s a doctor from Montana who wanted to help the Sherpa and Nepali people. Now she’s in charge of the highest-altitude emergency room in the world.

By Kim Thielman-Ibes

Get Your Glide On Snow season? Finally. This year consider a cross-country escape where you can put your best foot forward . . . and then follow it with the other one.

By Debra Bokur

Ezra Shaw / Getty Images Sport

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cover photo: Ian Coble

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departments 18

20

12. The Dirt

64. Yes, You Can Keep Up Your Bike Commute in Winter How to brave the wettest, coldest time of year and

People, Places, and Things from Our Outdoor World New green gear, holiday shopping with a conscious, snowbiking, mogul tips, and more

28. It’s Personal

Extreme Worry A mother’s concern for her child doesn’t go away with age—especially if there is freeskiing involved.

30. Letters from the Divide

32. Love on the Rocks

72. Full The Fifth Food Group

Winter Daze No need to compromise on fit, comfort, or style this season. Our snow gear picks are made just for you.

96. Editorial

A Girl’s Guide to Gift-getting You can tell a lot about a man by the presents he gives you.

Cheese, glorious cheese! All foods should be as versatile, varied, and tasty.

80. Fresh from the Field

Lizard Liberator It was not just the yoga and the massage that made Pam Houston feel like a different person at her recent spa retreat. It was her new mission: reptile redeemer.

arrive at work happy

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The Sisterhood of Our Traveling Pants An item of clothing can mean a lot to a girl.

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58. Whole Health

Joint Overload Have questions about arthritis? Here are the answers.

8. Behind the Story 10. Message from the Editor 94. Musings Women’s j Adventure

Now that’s a snow day!

Get out of the office and hit the powder – you know you want to. And with Marmot’s Randonnee Glove you’ll be able to immerse yourself in the fresh snow without freezing your digits. Featuring PrimaLoft® One Insulation, the Randonnee Glove’s is soft, lightweight, and toasty.

And its waterproof core will keep your hands dry along the way. Snow days aren’t just for school kids…so make something up and get out there.

Photo Gabe Rogel, Chamonix, France

P E O P L E / P R O D U C T / P L A N E T™

From our extraordinary partners – to the high performance clothing and equipment we design – to the measured steps we’re taking toward global sustainability, this is Marmot for Life ®.

M A R M OT.COM

behind the STORY Founder/Publisher Michelle Theall

The first time Kim Thielman-Ibes met Luanne Freer, MD, founder of the Everest Base Camp Medical Clinic, was at the base of Big Sky, Montana, on a stormy midNovember day (“The Last Outpost,” page 40). “My backside was eight hours into a series of medical presentations for the 2004 ski patrol refresher,” says Kim, “and thankfully her overview of the first-ever extreme-altitude medical clinic hit us like an ice-cold can of Red Bull.” Kim was instantly struck by Dr. Freer’s PPP motto: profession, passion, and philanthropy. “It’s taken a long time, but I’m trying hard to incorporate this idea into my life,” says the Bozeman, Montana–based writer. Kim’s stories have appeared in Big Sky Journal, Climbing, Distinctly Montana, and Horizon Air Magazine.

Editor in Chief Christian Nardi Creative Director Randi McEntee, RP Graphic Design Studio Editorial Copy Editor: Elizabeth von Radics Proofreader: Susan Gall Gear Editor: Karina Evertsen Assistant Editors: Bryn Fox, Mariko LeBaron Cycling Gear Editor: Susan Hayse Photo Editor: Corrynn Cochran Editorial queries or submissions should be sent to edit@womensadventuremagazine.com.

Products for review consideration should be sent to karina@womensadventuremagazine.com.

Nonreturnable samples may be sent to 1637 Pearl Street #201, Boulder, CO 80302-5447 Photo queries should be sent to photos@womensadventuremagazine.com.

En route to watch her sister compete in an extreme-skiing competition in Telluride, Colorado, Boulder–based writer and former executive editor of Skiing magazine Helen Olsson drove through a whiteknuckle, snow-pounding blizzard. Her mother (and co-pilot) calmed her down by calling out the clues to a crossword puzzle. “Even though I’m 42, my mom has the power to soothe me,” says Helen. In “Extreme Worry” (It’s Personal, page 28), she discovers how a mother’s worry never diminishes no matter how old her babies grow to be. “I have three little kids,” says Helen, “so this is not good news to me.” Helen’s stories have appeared in the New York Times, Self, Warren Miller’s SnoWorld, Women’s Sports & Fitness, and Sports Illustrated for Women.

Advertising Associate Publisher: Karina Evertsen West Coast/Rockies/Midwest Sales karina@womensadventuremagazine.com/303 263 2722 Northwest Sales: Michelle Theall michelle@womensadventuremagazine.com/720 635 1380 California Sales: Theresa Ellbogen theresa@womensadventuremagazine.com/303 641 5525 Eastern Sales: Susan Sheerin suesheerin63@yahoo.com/303 931 6057 Automotive/Food/Beverage Sales: Melissa Hickey melissa@womensadventuremagazine.com/303 588 4686 Advertising Managers Joanna Laubscher (Northwest): joanna@womensadventuremagazine.com Alex Ballas (Travel/Tourism): alex@womensadventuremagazine.com For general advertising inquiries, please see the posted media kit on our website or e-mail us at publisher@womensadventuremagazine.com.

Office Manager: Lynne Boyle lynne@womensadventuremagazine.com Design Manager: Krisan Christensen

Vanessa Pierce wasn’t quite sure what to think about getting invited to try out for the U.S. Bobsled Team. During four days of camp at the Olympic Training Center in Lake Placid, New York, she was surrounded by 250-pound men and women with quads that looked like tree stumps. “You need to be big to push a 400-pound sled down the track and withstand the 5 g’s crushing you to death,” says Vanessa, who writes about her experience in the feature “So, You Think You’ve Got What It Takes to Make the U.S. Bobsled Team?” (page 34). “It’s the most painful, uncomfortable minute of your life.” Through those painful but entertaining days, Vanessa forever became a fan of bobsled. She is the features editor of Ski Racing magazine and has been published in Outside, the Ski Journal, Powder, and the Washington Times, among others.

Circulation Circulation Director: Rick Rhinehart If you’d like to carry Women’s Adventure in your store or would like to explore a partnership to help us grow our subscriber base, please e-mail us at rick@womensadventuremagazine.com.

Subscribers and Customer Service If you wish to subscribe to the magazine, have a change of address, or have missed an issue, please contact Kable Fulfillment at 800 746 3910 or e-mail us at ddln@kable.com.

Web Web Developer: Susan Hayse

The opinions and the advice expressed herein are exclusively those of the authors and are not representative of the publishing company or its members.

Copyright © 2008 by Big Earth Publishing. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without written permission is expressly prohibited.

Women’s Adventure makes a portion of its mailing list available from time to time to third parties. If you want to request exclusion from our promotional list, please contact us at ddln@kable.com.

Outdoor activities are inherently risky, and participation can cause injury or loss of life. Please consult your doctor prior to beginning any workout program or sports activity, and seek out a qualified instructor. Big Earth Publishing will not be held responsible for your decision to thrive in the wild. Have fun!

Women’s j Adventure

brooksrunning.com

Editor’s Letter Reaching for the Stars

In the eight years I’ve worked in the outdoor industry, there is one thing I’ve never really been able to wrap my head around: the urge to climb Mount Everest. I get that it’s spectacular and a challenge, but the potential horrendous weather conditions, altitude sickness, or slip of a crampon possibly resulting in joining one of the many bodies strewn on the mountainside has never really appealed to me. When journalist friends go there to report a story, I put on a brave face and wish them a safe journey. But really I’m a wreck, worrying that maybe the mountain will claim them too. And for what?

And then I learned about Dr. Luanne Freer. Luanne is not an extreme mountaineer with a list of peaks she aspires to conquer.

She is a doctor from Montana who fell in love with the Sherpa and Nepali people. She saw the need that many of them had for access to medical care close to their workplace— which just happens to be Mount Everest. Through perseverance, determination, and countless hours of fundraising, Luanne opened the highest-altitude emergency room in the world. In the past six years, the Everest Base Camp Medical Clinic hasn’t lost a single life. Rather than being about the casualties left for dead on the mountain, this Everest story is about saving lives and aiding the community of hardworking locals, who depend on the mountain and their health to feed their families. And it’s about one brave, badass individual.

But then that’s what this magazine is all about. Fortunately for us, there seems to be no shortage of outstanding women who are following their hearts and achieving what many would consider the unobtainable. As we bid good-bye to one year and greet another, I hope, like Luanne, that you will be inspired to make what seems like the impossible possible. And I promise to keep looking for the women and the stories that fuel that inspiration—even in the most unlikely places.

In the meantime, happy holiday season. I’m going to start here with reaching for what may seem the unimaginable and hope for peace for everyone everywhere.

Christian Nardi

Women’s Adventure Online

ËWe are adding new contests and giveaways each month. Please visit www.womensadventuremagazine.com/community/wacontests.html to check them out.

Readers’ Poll

What do you think about traveling to see endangered species in their natural habitats?

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47%

They should be preserved by being left alone.

38%

I think it’s a good idea to boost ecotravel in their natural habitats to raise money to help save them.

15%

Other

Reader’s StorY Fourteen on a Fourteener

“Is that the summit?” I asked my Aunt Flossie for probably the fifth time so far on our quest to summit Mount Yale. My aunt just laughed, and I stared at her in bewilderment. We had been hiking for maybe only two hours and had not even come close to the tree line.

I shrieked when I first saw the snow.

I was in Denver on vacation from Philadelphia, and summiting Mount Yale was my very first real hike. When I looked down after bouldering across 20 yards and saw the rolling hills I only a few short hours ago believed to be the real summit, I laughed at myself; they were so far down.

I had learned to visualize at camp.

When I told my aunt I was visualizing, she told me that visualizing where my foot would go would help me get down.

I seemed to fall a lot. I laughed and told her I was visualizing an ice-cold Dr. Pepper and a bag of SunChips.

When it was all over and my visualization had become reality, I realized that material things (no matter how cold that Dr. Pepper was) could not compare with rolling down the snow on the side of a mountain 13,000 feet up, or feeling the exhilaration of peering over the boulders on the edge of the summit (I thought the summit was a flat plateau—I wish), or even sleeping in a tent beside people I love, knowing that the best therapy would be looking at the vast nature around me and realizing my problems are small in comparison.

—Deirdre O’Leary

The Dirt

People, Places, and Things from Our Outdoor World ≥ ROAR ≥ GOTTA HAVE ≥ The green zone ≥ OUt There ≥ ACTION

Jessica O’Connor

≥ Sports Clinic

Carmen Adamyk and her team navigate overflow on the Teklanika River.

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ROAR

The Mushing Life

D

Jessica O’Connor

“

enali National Park’s assistant kennel manager, Carmen Adamyk, gives us a glimpse inside her unconventional life.

My main responsibilities in the winter are to lead the backcountry and teach volunteers how to run dogs. We usually have right around 30 sled dogs at a time. That’s enough to run three dog teams, which is ideal for our longest patrols in the spring months. Backcountry patrols range from day trips of around 16 miles to our longest trip of the season, which can last up to five weeks. Mechanized equipment is prohibited [in the park], therefore our dog teams are a prime means of transport for researchers and their equipment, as well as for supplies or other equipment needed to be transported by other park entities to areas that are not accessible by road. We also act as a presence in the backcountry, helping law enforcement rangers protect the resources by patrolling the park for people poaching the land with snow machines.

There are a lot of women involved in backcountry patrols. This winter it happens that we are all women. It all depends on the applicants and whom we believe will work well with the dogs as well as with each other in very demanding, high-stress situations. My job in the winter is very field orientated, being out on the trail with the dogs for the majority of the winter. The summer is spent in the kennel yard, keeping the dogs healthy and happy as well as facilitating the summer demonstrations, which helps educate the 40,000-plus visitors about how we use the dogs.

There are definitely exhilarating moments on the trail—dropping down wind-packed chutes; trying to keep your sled upright as you wind around an open hole, which your dogs cut short and you end up upside down in an open-water stream; dark nights trying to find shelter in an area you have never been; skidding around and bouncing off willows as you use your sled as a shield as your dogs speed down a steep, icy creek; and cold, north winds on top of temperatures of 30 below zero day after day of mushing— all these things get the adrenaline going.

Mushing is a wonderful way to spend the winters in Alaska. I remember while growing up, getting to school in the dark, watching the short days of daylight pass by out the window, and heading back home in the dark. I believe that the key to living in a place where your daylight hours are limited is to be out in that light when it’s around.

This job requires you to be outside and physically active during those hours—and there’s no better way to spend a day outside in the winter than running with these dogs in this park.

”

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13

The Dirt PRO/CON

Driving Vs. Flying For short trips across the state, you know you’ll drive. For long trips across the country, you know you’ll fly. But for those middle distances, it’s always tough to decide. When you’re heading to visit the fam for the holidays, how should you get there? To simplify your decision just a tad, we’ve done some research for you.

We evaluated the pros and cons of both driving and flying, based on a trip from Denver, Colorado, to Salt Lake City, Utah (approximately 500 miles), though the exact details will vary somewhat for your particular journey. Next time you head out for a long weekend, consider the following facts.

DRIVING ›› Total mileage: 537 miles each way on major roads and highways ›› Total travel time: approximately 7.5 hours each way (not counting stops for gas, bathroom breaks, and your share of gas station candy) ›› Cost of gas: $86 each way (based on a car that gets 25 miles per gallon (mpg) at $4 per gallon)* ›› CO2 emissions: 0.21 tons per vehicle (each way)* ›› Safety: 1 in 5,000 chance of being involved in a car accident Cost in gas and CO2 emissions is total per vehicle, so this number will be reduced per person if there is more than one person in the car. *

Winter Pet Health Yes, dogs are resilient and built to weather the seasons, but they still need extra care as the weather turns. fewer daylight hours, it can be 1 With tough to get your dog’s exercise in before dark. If you do need to walk ol’ Spot after dark, get him a lit or reflective collar and always keep him on a leash if you are in an area with traffic. leave a dog alone in a car 2 Never when the temperature drops below freezing—and learn to recognize the signs of hypothermia. Shivering can be a preliminary sign, but the more advanced stages of hypothermia are lethargy, disorientation, and slowed or irregular breathing. sure to dry your pet thoroughly 3 Be when you bring him inside so he warms up quickly!

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FLYING ›› Total mileage: 380 miles each way, as the crow flies ›› Total travel time: approximately 3.5 hours each way (total time includes 1.5 hours in flight, 1.5 hours for check-in and security, and 30 minutes to get to the airport, park, and walk) ›› Cost of plane ticket: $60 one way (based on round-trip flight per person) ›› CO2 emissions: 0.163 per person each way (according to www.nativeenergy.com)* ›› Safety: 1 in 11 million chance of being involved in an airplane accident CO2 emissions are per person, assuming a full flight, and do not include the additional impact of driving to and from the airport. *

The Solstice

It may have taken a backseat to other wintertime holidays in modern culture, but throughout history the shortest day of the year has been universally regarded as a time of rebirth and celebration.

Solstice, or “standing still sun,” has been celebrated since Neolithic times and falls every year on December 21 or 22. Agrarian cultures were so dependent on the sun that the winter solstice was a major celebration to mark the point when the cycle was returning to summer.

Winter solstice celebrations universally include candlelight, evergreens, and feasting. In the United States, there are many well-established events that also incorporate music and festivities. This year the solstice falls on December 21, so mark your calendar—and check out your community’s local celebrations!

Gotta Have

Sustainable Gear Many companies are taking an initiative by bringing us great new gear with the least environmental impact. Buy yourself one of these awesome new sustainable winter must-haves and know that with your purchase you just might be improving your odds for a good season. Fashionable. Functional. Good for the Earth. How about that for retail therapy?

Smith Optics Evolve I/O Goggles These goggles are made from 96 percent reground excess waste from the medical industry (don’t worry, it’s unused!), and all logo treatments are made from bamboo.

The rimless lenses are interchangeable, and the whole set is helmet compatible. $180. www.smithsport.com

Arbor Push Snowboard This dynamic and flexible board is made from bamboo—quite possibly the most sustainable building material on Earth due to its innate ability to reproduce continuously in a totally organic fashion.

(This stuff grows so fast no pesticides are needed.) The women’s-specific Push also has a protective layer of nylon to make sure your board stays in for the long haul—and out of the landfill. $430. www.arborsports.com

Keen Betty Bag This durable messenger-style bag is perfect for a day out and about. It’s made with a 100 percent recycled polyester lining and 100 percent recycled aluminum components.

Keen uses the aluminum and rubber scraps from its footwear manufacturers and makes them into hardware like snaps and buckles.

The bag’s sturdy base keeps it from wearing out too quickly and is made from reclaimed materials. $50. www.keenfootwear.com

Women’s j Adventure 15

The Dirt KIDS’ CORNER

Happy New Year— Wherever You Are! So you can’t make it to Times Square? That doesn’t mean your New Year’s celebration can’t be one for the books.

How to celebrate if you are . . . . . . near the beach The moon will be small on December 31, so head out for a skinnydip. Even your most modest friends can’t argue in the pitch-blackness. Just don’t forget where you left your clothes. . . . in the mountains Head to your nearest ski resort, mountain, or hillside and go sledding. Remember how fun it was as a kid? Guess what? It’s even more fun at midnight with an open bottle of champagne. Don’t have a sled? Sit on your snowboard! Run up. Slide down. All good. . . . at home Not into making yourself stay up ’til midnight just to watch Dick Clark count down the clock? Sydney, Australia, is the first major city to ring in 2009, 14 hours before the ball drops in NYC. Start your fiesta in the morning with brunch. By midnight you’ll be tuckered out and tucked in bed.

The Book Tree

A few years ago, when my children started anticipating the holidays, I realized I had an opportunity to create lifelong memories for them.

I thought about the traditions I grew up with and wanted to pass on, but I also wanted to establish new ones.

My husband and I both love reading, and we wanted to share that with our daughters. I decided that, in addition to our Christmas tree, we would decorate a separate tree dedicated to books.

It always turns out to be a rather Charlie Brown–type tree—small and spindly—but we decorate it with bright glass balls and a garland of quotes from holiday poems and stories. Most important is its bounty of books.

Like the 12 days of Christmas, each night leading up to the twenty-fifth we go to the book tree to pick one book to open and read before bedtime. I enjoy rediscovering the books I remember from my childhood, and I always feel good about infusing my kids’ libraries with new bedtime stories.

—Mariko LeBaron

FREE STUFF

Your New Winter Coat Heading out for a long winter walk? Give your ski jacket a rest and grab this classic bomber-style jacket from Marmot instead. Filled with MarmaLoft insulation and trimmed with a faux fur collar, the St. Moritz Jacket will keep you warm and cozy no matter what conditions the winter season brings. Stylish quilting gives this jacket a feminine look without sacrificing die-hard warmth. It’s available in sizes XS to XL and retails for $150. Enter to win yours for free by going to www.womensadventuremagazine.com/marmot12 by December 31. The winner will be announced January 15.

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win 30 trips in 30 days‌ Après Snow Chow

Warm up with this delicious winter soup. It’s perfect after a busy day outside—and ideal for a crowd. It pairs well with a slice of soft, freshly baked bread. Enjoy!

Which experience will you choose?

Nana’s Butternut Squash and Apple Soup 3 tablespoons butter (or ½ cup olive oil) 2 large yellow onions, chopped 2 tablespoons curry powder 1 teaspoon chili powder 5 cups chicken stock 1 large butternut squash (8 cups), peeled, chopped, and seeded 3 firm, tart apples (granny smith) peeled, cored, and diced Salt and pepper to taste ½ cup cream (optional)

Trek the Inca Trail Be led by a local through Cesky Kru mlov Walk the Great Wall Sleep in a Balkan Monastery Become a nomad Watch the sunrise over Angkor Wat Ca mp out in the Sahara Try hilltribe life Walk with the Gods Sail the Turkish coast Set sail on the Nile River Salsa the night away Bag a bargain at a Mayan market Ca mp out in the Serengeti Walk on a glacier Experience life on the Ganges Trek the Inca Trail Be led by a local through Cesky Kru mlov Walk the Great Wall Sleep in a Balkan Monastery Become a nomad Watch the sunrise over Angkor Wat Ca mp out in the Sahara Try hilltribe life Walk with the Gods Sail the Turkish coast Set sail

In a heavy skillet, melt butter/oil and sautÊ onions until translucent— about 5 minutes.

on the Nile River Salsa the night away Bag a bargain at a Mayan market Ca mp out in the Serengeti Walk on a glacier Experience life on the Ganges Trek the Inca Trail Be

Add curry and chili powder and cook for 5 more minutes. Add 2 to 3 cups chicken stock and simmer.

Transfer to soup pot; add squash, apples, and the rest of the stock.

Season with salt and pepper.

Simmer 45 minutes to an hour or until squash is tender. Stir often to prevent sticking.

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Blend to a purĂŠe and place in a clean pot. For richer soup, stir in cream just before serving.

Serves 4 to 6.

THE KING OF TRAILS

Jeffrey Green / stockfood creative

CONTINENTAL DIVIDE TRAIL

Support America’s HIGHEST, WILDEST, and MOST REMOTE trail.

www.cdtrail.org • 888-909-CDTA Women’s j Adventure 17

The Dirt SPORTS TREND

Snowbiking

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—Rebecca Kane

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Norbert Eisele-Hein / Look / getty images

ou love skiing. You love biking. Now you can love snowbiking. Originating in Europe, the sport of “sit skiing” evolved into “ski bobbing.” Its popularity soared in the 1960s largely due to a scene in the Beatles’ movie Help (Check it out at www.youtube.com/watch?v=TateUuCUI6c.)

Snowbiking is now gaining momentum in the United States. The first program was introduced in 1998 at Vail Ski Resort in Colorado, and, as of today, more than 20,000 riders have tried it there.

The snowbike is uniquely designed with two skis in place of wheels. Two tiny outrigger skis also attach to your ski boots. These four points of contact on the ground enable incredible carving, control, and stability on any terrain. Just sit back, squeeze your legs together, and let the bike slide. From this seated position, you don’t have far to fall.

The snowbike has full suspension, so you can either carve under moguls or spring right over them. To control your speed or stop, you simply turn your head and edge uphill.

When skiing or snowboarding, you use mostly leg muscles, but snowbiking involves your entire body. This takes the pain out of your joints and is perfect for those recovering from beat-up ski knees.

Many ski resorts offer “learn and rent” programs. Search a ski area’s website for slopecyling, skibiking, or snowbiking. For more information visit www.snowbike.com.

THE GREEN ZONE

How I Changed My Ways in 2008 Small or not so small, it seems we’ve all made changes in our everyday habits this year. Whether it’s driving less, buying different things, or recycling more, ask anyone, and chances are they did something to directly reduce their carbon footprint. Here’s what some of our readers did: “We shop locally as much as we can. We’ve pretty much stopped eating red meat, for health reasons but also because of its impact on the environment. We have also signed up for half of our energy bill to come from green energy.”

—Monette Magrath, Los Angeles, California “We’ve always been pretty militant about recycling, but I just bought the “wrap-n-mat,” which is a great product that’s plastic on one side and fabric on the other. I use these to wrap the kids’ sandwiches for lunch. I just wipe them down and reuse them.”

—Andrea Bibeau, Austin, Texas

“I’ve combined my errands. If I needed something, I used to run out and get it. Now I wait for the day when I do all my errands.”

—Jeanne Howard, San Diego, California “My sisters and I have made it our passion to become greener. At home we all have changed to CFLs [compact fluorescent lamps] and reduced our energy use by unplugging or limiting usage; we carry bags for shopping, we use rain barrels to water our flowers, and we own hybrids. We’re also looking into solar and tankless water heaters for future changes.”

—Heidi Haas, Streamline, Illinois

Have you made big changes this year to lessen your impact on the planet? If so, we want to hear about it.

Go to www.womensadventuremagazine.com/enviro.html to give us the details.

Women’s j Adventure 19

The Dirt OUT THERE

Glamping The newest trend in outdoor fun, “glamping,” or glamorous camping, can satisfy your craving for the outdoors and your penchant for a good meal and a nice glass of wine. Check out these luxury camping accommodations scattered throughout the country and plan yourself a nice little vacation from ramen noodles and stinky sleeping bags.

Sequoia High Sierra Camp

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STEAL

Fourpeaks, Adirondacks, New York Fourpeaks lies on a 700-acre lot and is home to seven different “camps,” each reminiscent of a nineteenth-century farmhouse.

There is no electricity or running water; propane powers these homesteads, and bathing is done with a portable shower. Twenty miles of hiking trails grace the property, as well as endless wildflower viewing and, in the fall, apple picking. Kitchens come stocked with biscuit-making ingredients, and there’s a general store on-site.

Camps start at $375 for three nights, each one sleeping two to eight people. www.4peaks.com Chattooga River Resort, Georgia Nestled along South Carolina’s Chattooga River in the Great Smoky Mountains, the Chattooga River Resort offers a mingling of lifestyles with its tent sites and gourmet meals. Bring your tent and sleeping bag, but once you’re there you can order “room service” and have a gourmet dinner delivered to your tent, along with a bottle of wine from an extensive wine list. Hike all day and treat yourself to a massage when you get back to camp—or rent a DVD to watch in your campsite complete with electricity. Though bathrooms are communal, you’d never know it by the marble showers, gold fixtures, and amenities like mouthwash and shaving cream at your disposal.

The only downside is you now have no excuse to skip the shower.

Tent sites start around $20 per night. 864.647.1110 Paliuli Luxury Camp, Big Island, Hawaii Escape the cold this winter and head to Hawaii, where you can play and sleep outdoors year-round. Totally solar powered, Paliuli Luxury Camp sits on 7 acres, where mangoes, papayas, and bananas grow wild for the pickin’. Spend your days hiking, snorkeling, or exploring the many miles of coastline or volcanoes and come home at night to a safari-style tent complete with queen-sized bed and your own private outdoor shower. If you are on a tighter budget, you can still enjoy the jungle with amenities like wireless Internet and gas barbecue grills, but pitch your own tent or, better yet, sleep in one of the army-style tents already set up and ready for you to crawl right in. Luxury tents start at $100 per night, army-style tents start at $41 per night, or pitch your own campsite for $27 per night. www.paliuli.com

SPLURGE

Lakedale Resort, San Juan Island, Washington These soft-sided cabins set on the lake don’t have running water or electricity, but they do have big cozy beds and private decks. The communal coin-operated showers are complete with Aveda products to up the luxury factor. There is a luxurious lodge and basic tent sites on the 82-acre property. Bring Grandma or your tree-hugger sister. Lakedale has a place to sleep for everyone. Canvas tents start at $139 per night. www.lakedale.com Sequoia High Sierra Camp, California After hiking into the remote Sequoia wilderness, the High Sierra Camp will look like a mirage. Take the adventurous route and park at the Sequoia National Park Visitor Center and then hike 12 miles through the Sierras (your pack will be light as you need no food, bedding, or toiletries!); or take the easy route and park at a nearby trailhead and cruise the 1 mile into camp. Either way you’ll have a view of Kings Canyon as you eat gourmet meals while sharing stories from your day of hiking and fly-fishing with other campers.

Simple tent cabins have warm comforters, luxurious towels, and plenty of big windows to blur the line between indoors and out.

This is also an excellent home base for a snowshoeing trip in the great Sierra Nevada. Beds, meals, toiletries, and good times are provided. The whole shebang will run you $250 per person per night. www.sequoiahighsierracamp.com

Going Lux Can’t get to a luxury campground but still need a little spoiling?

Turn your own campsite into upscale accommodations with these fabulous amenities.

Lexan Martini Glass Screw the acrylic glass onto the stem and you’ll be ready for happy hour. Comes apart for easy storage. Don’t forget the olives. $5. www.redrockstore.com

REI Comfort Cot Get off the ground and onto this padded full-length cot. Folds up for easy packing. $129. www.rei.com

Extreme Stovetop Hot-water Shower Just fill with water and put on your camp stove; in 10 minutes you’ll be ready for a hot shower. $120. www.hotcampshowers.com

Coleman Camping Coffeemaker Just like your favorite drip coffee at home, but it brews on the burner of a camp stove. $40. www.coleman.com

Women’s j Adventure 21

CFFB =FI K?<J< DFLEK8@E ?8I;N<8I GIF;L:KJ N@K? N@E;JKFGG<I =89I@: K<:?EFCF>P% NFD<EËJ D@EO A8:B<K

The Dirt ACTION

Holiday Shopping for Humanity Fleece so soft, you might forget about the technical pedigree.

WINDSTOPPER ® fleece does as the name promises.

Rib-knit cuffs and collar for warmth and comfort.

Before you blitz the local mall this year to buy presents for your nearest and dearest, consider giving something through a charitable organization.

More and more nonprofits offer gift catalogs and creative ways to donate, which allow spreading the spirit of the season even farther than the hands of the recipient. Here are some ideas for your list.

MOM Silk scarf $50 Save the Children offers a whole line of products designed by children, which includes neckties, scarves, note cards, and mugs. The organization also sells Save the Children logo items, such as fleeces, travel mugs, and picture frames. Proceeds help children in areas of crisis around the world. www.savethechildren.org, click Shop.

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DAD Book: National Geographic Journeys of a Lifetime $40 UNICEF offers an array of gifts, including beautiful candles, candleholders, picture frames, journals, ornaments, and more. UNICEF works globally to provide children and mothers in need with education and medical attention. www.shopcardsandgifts.unicefusa.org CHILD Sea otter $50 You can “adopt” a wild animal through the World Wildlife Fund. For as little as $50, you can give a lucky kid a plush version of the animal you sponsor, along with an adoption certificate and a gift bag. You also get the satisfaction of knowing you’re helping wildlife in crisis. There are 80 animals from which to choose. www.worldwildlife.org, click Adopt a pet.

A Mountain Hardwear original, made with WINDSTOPPER ® micro fleece. Taslan overlay on shoulders and arms protects against abrasion. An essential for windy, cold activities.

To locate a Mountain Hardwear retailer near you, visit: www.mountainhardwear.com

G < I = F I D 8 E : < < C < M8K < ;

WINDSTOPPER®, GORE® and designs are trademarks of W.L. Gore & Associates, Inc.

22 Women’s j Adventure

FRIEND/TEACHER Tote bag $18 Support the Nature Conservancy by buying one of its logo items, adopting an acre of endangered land, or giving a gift membership. Proceeds help the organization protect ecologically important landscapes and bodies of water. www.nature.org You can also make item donations to needy families in impoverished countries.

Through the following organizations, you can give livestock, blankets, and school supplies. Your loved ones will receive a card, notifying them that you made the donation in their name, and you both feel good knowing the money went to someone truly in need.

Heifer International: www.heifer.org Oxfam International: www.oxfamunwrapped.com World Vision: www.worldvision.org

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The Dirt

SPORTS CLINIC

24 Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j Adventure

Nailing THE

Bumps

Skiing and snowboarding moguls can be mentally challenging, physically exhausting, and downright frustrating. Here expert instructors provide some universal tips to help you the next time you’re face-to-face with a bump run.

Skiing Moguls Find Level Ground “A skier is ready to tackle moguls when she is a solid, blue (intermediate level], parallel skier. She should be comfortable enough skiing that she doesn’t use her upper body to turn and can ski with a narrower stance,” says Rob Sogard, assistant director of Snowbird Mountain Resort in Snowbird, Utah, who has taught mogul skiing for 23 years. “Whenever you want to increase difficulty, like going from groomed runs to moguls, you bring the pitch down,” says Rob. “When I teach moguls to solid blue skiers, we go to flat ground and practice two skills: pivot turns and side slipping.”

Master the Skills A pivot turn is basically steering the skis around 180 degrees without moving down the hill. A normal ski turn is an arc, which travels forward as it bends, but a pivot stays in one spot. “When people begin skiing moguls,” says Rob, “they think the turn is short and jumpy. Instead it’s a slippy, skiddy turn called side slipping that pivots 180 degrees around the bump and slides down the backside. You actually travel very slowly.”

Know the Drills Drill #1: “Skiing moguls requires being comfortable with a lot of terrain changes. I have students traverse bump fields, of course making sure it’s safe from other skiers,” says Rob. “The goal is to keep your hips at the same level but let your legs extend and go over the bumps without using your poles. You’re teaching your legs to absorb the terrain without affecting your balance.”

Drill #2: Poles also become very important in the bumps, so another traverse drill uses your poles. Point your skis across the traverse but twist your body to face downhill. “As you hit the terrain,” says Rob, “your body wants to realign, but keep it from turning over your skis by using your downhill pole to keep your body facing downhill. The goal of this is twofold: to keep the upper body out of it and to learn to use your poles as a third contact point.”

Take It to the Next Level “As you become more comfortable in the bumps,” says Rob, “you want to try to use less slipping and sliding and stretch the pivot turn out into more of a ski turn. The goal is to bring it back to the normal turn, but to do this you must really be solid in pivoting.”

Women’s j Adventure 25

The Dirt Snowboarding Moguls What It Takes “You need the experience on groomed terrain to develop the balance and confidence necessary to board moguls,” says Meredith McFarland, Sugarbush Ski & Ride trainer, in Warren, Vermont, who has coached snowboarders on moguls for 15 years. “Beginners tend to look down, but to board moguls you need your line of vision farther out. You also need to practice dynamic skidded turns and short-radius turns on level terrain so you can build independent leg movement. Once you have these skills,” says Meredith, “you can begin moguls.”

Go Nastar “One of the things I do with my students before tackling moguls is go through a Nastar (race) course,” says Meredith. “Weaving in and out of the course forces them to look ahead and plan their turns—two skills they need when navigating a mogul field.”

Choose the Right Run “When you start out, you want to choose a run that has a mellow grade with traverses that allow you to easily get on and off,” says Meredith. “It’s going to be tiring, so it’s a mental safety net knowing there is a way to get out. It’s also helpful to choose the right day. You don’t want a lot of hard snow and ice, and it’s helpful to have some powder in the troughs.”

Make a Garland “Like a garland on a Christmas tree, I have my students weave in and out of the moguls across the field as opposed to pointing straight down,” says Meredith. “Start by dropping the nose of the board into the trough and ride up and over the moguls. Keep your body flexing and extending through the turns. I like to keep my body low—your legs are your suspension.”

Boarding Better in the Bumps Once you’ve gotten comfortable on moguls and want to go faster, here’s what Meredith McFarland recommends: • Change your terrain to a steeper grade.

• Look out 10 to 12 moguls ahead.

• Go through woods—like skiing a Nastar course, it forces you to tighten your board control techniques and keep your gaze ahead.

• Ride on the tops of the bumps—it’s a technical way of riding and a challenge, but it’s very pretty to see someone do this well.

• Play mental games and create challenges like seeing how quickly you can board the mountain from top to bottom.

• Ride the bumps under the chair. The audience keeps you on your toes.

The Dirt is reported and edited by Bryn Fox and Mariko LeBaron.

26 Women’s j Adventure

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But we’ve worked this one out and come up with a pretty clever, pretty comfortable solution: GorE-tEX Footwear with Xcr Product technology. the climate management system helps your feet cope with whatever the weather throws at you. Better still, they are extremely breathable and draw away perspiration and excessive heat.

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it’s personal

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Extreme Worry A mother’s concern for her child doesn’t go away with age—especially if there is freeskiing involved.

Oskar Enander

By Helen Olsson

Clare Burns competing in Switzerland

28 Women’s j Adventure

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> “Don’t tell Mom,” my sister implored.

A fellow competitor had hucked herself off a 40-foot cliff in Crested Butte and landed so hard she was coughing up blood. After 14 years of teaching skiing in Val d’Isère, France, Clare had decided to toss her pompommed hat into the world of freeskiing competition (once known more accurately as “extreme skiing”). At 37 she was coming a tad late to the game. Most participants are twenty-somethings with rubber knees and little fear. Clare assured me she had better sense than to jump quite like that. She would, however, ski big rock-strewn lines at warp speed and drop off smallish cliffs. But she didn’t want Mom to worry about that stuff.

Last February my mother and I went to Telluride to watch Clare’s first event, the Subaru Telluride Freeskiing Open. On that trip I discovered things about the relationship between a mother and a daughter—how some elements of the bond evolve over time and others, regrettably, stay the same. Now that I’m a mother of three, including one spitfire of a girl, I have a brand-new perspective on the mother’s journey.

At first my mom didn’t worry so much about Clare. I think she didn’t fully grasp the hazard at hand. In Telluride my mom kept asking the skiers wearing numbered bibs what time “the race” was starting. “It’s not so much a race, really,” they would try to explain.

My five siblings and I grew up ski racing in Buffalo, New York. Over those formative years, there must have been a certain amount of maternal nail-biting. We bashed slalom gates and hit speeds of 50 miles per hour in downhill courses—which is darn fast when you’re 12. Sure, there were potential downsides—you’d shred a knee hooking a gate (I did once) or maybe break a leg (Clare did once). But in ski racing you would not, in all likelihood, leave the venue in a body bag.

In Telluride we watched the competition from the bottom of Prospect Bowl, a steep cirque peppered with hunks of protruding granite. The skiers dropped from the cornice, rooster-tailed through the powder, and bounded over rocks. I stood next to another competitor’s mother, her fingers laced in a tight knot. When her daughter cartwheeled through a rockband, the mother blurted, “F***!” then turned to me and said, “Sorry.”

(Her daughter skied away from the fall.)

My sister skied strong and fast, ending in a respectable sixth place. Later Mom remarked, as only a mother can, “Clare was the best, don’t you think?”

After the competition was over, Mom and I went skiing. The day was bluebird and warm, the trails soft. I helped knock snow chunks off her boots and cinched up her gloves. I

waited at the bottom for her to catch up, and at lunchtime I bought her a bowl of elk chili. I realized, with me in my forties and her in her seventies, there’s been a role reversal in the nurturing department. Not in obvious ways, like finding a nursing home, but in subtle,

I realized, with me in my forties and her in her seventies, there’s been a role reversal in the nurturing department. caring ways, like editing my CD collection for the car ride to keep the tunes PG. The fact is, my mom still rips on skis. Some things haven’t changed as our collective wrinkles have accumulated. While we were shopping in Telluride’s small market, the grandmother of my children refused to buy me a six-pack.

She even made that little maternal clucking noise of disapproval. (I was just trying to delegate, people.)

After two days of watching elite skiers ripping impossible lines, some throwing backflips off cliffs, others tumbling like ragdolls, my mom did begin to worry in earnest. For the rest of the season, she would wait nervously for Clare’s phone calls from competitions in Squaw Valley, Crested Butte, and Europe.

During the Alaska event, news of a competitor’s death aired on our local news.

My phone rang: “Clare’s in Alaska, right?

Did you hear?” my mom asked. “Oh, sacred heart.” When my sister told me of other competitors’ injuries, I kept it to myself. If I told my mom, she would only break out the rosary beads and start praying—and losing sleep.

Thankfully, all the fretting was in vain: Clare finished the season unscathed and even took a first-place finish in Nendaz, Switzerland.

I had always figured that once the chicks left the nest, a mother could relax. I worry now about my children because they are small: 2, 4, and 7. Danger lurks in parking lots, in swimming pools, and in locker rooms.

When my daughter stands on a kitchen chair, swinging her soft pudgy arms before hurling herself onto the hardwood, I worry. And now I know: it is just the beginning.

in thE comfort ZonE: Balancing tEmpEraturE

La Sportiva Ultranord GTX® XCR® GORE-TEX® Footwear with XCR® Product Technology

When choosing lightweight trail running footwear, biomechanics are important, but we think thermal management is too. That’s why we created a footwear system that allows your feet to help manage your body temperature.

GORE-TEX® Footwear with XCR® Product Technology is breathable, preventing excessive moisture buildup during intense activity.

All this and you get footwear that protects you from wet ground conditions with the GUARAnTEEd TO KEEP YOU dRY® promise.

Shop for trail running shoes from La Sportiva and learn more at gore-tex.com

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© 2008 W. L. Gore & Associaes, Inc. GORE-TEX®, XCR® , GTX®, GUARAnTEEd TO KEEP YOU dRY®, GORE® and designs are trademarks of W. L. Gore & Associates.

Women’s j Adventure 29

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letters from the divide

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Lizard Liberator It was not just the yoga and the massage that made Pam Houston feel like a different person at her recent spa retreat. It was her new mission: reptile redeemer.

Once a year, in hopes of getting my body stretched, my energy realigned, and my attitude adjusted, I indulge myself in four days at an all-inclusive desert spa, the kind with the eucalyptus steam room and yoga instructors from 10 different countries and one lady whose entire job is to make berryand-protein smoothies so that if at any point during the day you get even the slightest hankering, you can walk past the snack bar without slowing down and she will put one right into your hand.

I walk in there all bent over and stressed out with a big invisible sign across my forehead that reads: “Fix me and use any available tools.” And the beautiful thing is that those people know how to read it. They come with their Watsu and shiatsu, their Trager and Thai, their Abhyanga/Shirodhara and their acupuncture, and they bring it hard.

After 100 hours in their care, I not only feel better—and I do feel better—I am conversant with the universe in such a way that every rattlesnake is my brother and every lizard is my sister. You think I exaggerate, but I don’t.

It was my sisters the lizards who got my attention on my recent trip, specifically the way they would get themselves caught in the chain-link fence that keeps the balls from the driving range from conking unsuspecting clients on the head as they walk the path from their rooms to the spa. The fence has an unusually tight weave, the perfect size for the lizards to get themselves stuck, front feet on one side, back feet on the other, and no way to maneuver themselves all the way through. Because of the extreme heat (104 degrees F in the shade), it takes less than a few hours for a thrashing lizard to turn into a bleached-out shell of lizard dust, a few flies buzzing around its eyes.

My friend Cindy and I were walking back from the spa on our first afternoon. She had had a nice desert scrub and herbal wrap to start things off, and I had had something called Jin Shin Jyutsu.

I had told my personal program director, Marlene, that I wanted the best people, and I didn’t care much what they did; she pointed me toward Daryl, who had begun our Jin Shin Jyutsu session by saying, “I can see that you

30 Women’s j Adventure

>> >>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

are doing a lot of spiritual work because look how far you are out in your hair.”

I wasn’t sure what to say to that, so Daryl continued: “I am not afraid of your pain, Pamela. I am not afraid of your grief. I am not afraid of your terror. Do you want to know why I am not afraid of your terror?”

I nodded.

“Because I have gone inside the monster, and inside the monster is pure wonder.”

This is often how it goes for me at these all-inclusive spas. The next thing Daryl did was ask my father to leave the lower half of my body.

Cindy shook her head as we walked along the cactus-lined path. “And what do you have in mind for tomorrow?” she asked. “What treatment naturally follows an exorcism in a health-and-wellness plan?”

It was at that moment we saw the struggling lizard.

“We have to save her!” I said.

“Her?” Cindy said.

I didn’t know too much about lizards, but I was pretty sure they didn’t bite, so I crouched down with my newly father-free lower body and tucked that lizard’s little back leg right up under her belly and tried to poke it through to join her front legs. That first time it was like brain surgery, slow and careful. I was afraid I would break her leg or puncture her belly, but perseverance paid off, and soon she was pulling her fourth leg through on her own and scampering off to some much-needed shade.

After the first lizard rescue, they went much more quickly—lizards turn out to be way more bendable than you might think. We would be returning from a restorative yoga class, say, or maybe a singing-bowl meditation for peace, and on the way home I would stuff a half dozen lizard legs to the freedom side of the fence.

The days passed in a lavender- and verbenascented haze. A man named Jason taught me to dance under the water like a dolphin. A woman named Jennifer gave me the secondbest Thai massage I have ever had. A man named Aaron drained my lymph glands so sweetly it made me weep. And one day while Cindy and I were walking the labyrinth, we were visited by a swarm of entirely invisible bees.

We were sitting on comfy couches in the lobby on the last morning—cleansed, blissful, and some far better versions of ourselves— filling out our survey forms and waiting for our airport shuttle when Daryl walked by.

“When one of the doing lines in your life intersects with the circle of your now,” he said, “what happens?”

“I don’t know,” I said. “What?”

“It has to bend,” he said, already moving down the hallway. “It bends and bends and eventually becomes a circle.”

“Is this kind of talk going to make sense to us,” Cindy asked, “when we get back to our real lives?”

“No,” I said. “Three days from now, we will be unrecognizable to the selves who sit here today.”

“We need a memento,” Cindy said, arms stretched over her head, legs flopped over the armrest, “something that kicks us back to this feeling right here.”

By the time I completed my own reentry, I couldn’t have told you what I had written in the survey. I was sure I had praised my

After the first lizard rescue, they went much more quickly-lizards turn out to be way more bendable than you might think. therapists, the mattresses, and the 100calorie peanut butter soft serve, but any memory of Pam Houston, lizard liberator, was already gone.

Two weeks later, this letter arrived:

Dear Pam: We were delighted to have you with us recently and grateful that you have completed a guest survey. Your comments are valuable in helping us to maintain the high standards that we have worked diligently to maintain for nearly 30 years.

To address your concerns about lizards that get caught in the golf nets: Although we cannot raise netting since it would not keep other critters out, the spa director has assured me that his staff will begin surveying this area regularly to release any lizards that become entangled. We are appreciative of your empathy and thank you for your input.

We look forward to seeing you again.

in thE comfort ZonE: pErcEption vs. rEality

Nike Air Pegasus+ 25 GTX® GORE-TEX® Footwear with XCR® Product Technology

A runner’s perceived comfort plays an important part in maintaining the strong physical and mental state needed to perform at peak. Discomfort can quickly become a distraction, potentially diverting energy and causing performance to suffer.

The solution is GORE-TEX® Footwear with XCR® Product Technology. Runners of all levels need breathable footwear, which prevents excessive heat and moisture buildup during high activity and warmer conditions, while blocking all external water. The result is more focus on running, less time worrying about comfort.

Shop for trail running shoes from Nike and learn more at gore-tex.com

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© 2008 W. L. Gore & Associaes, Inc. GORE-TEX®, XCR®, GTX®, GUARANTEED TO KEEP YOU DRY®, GORE® and designs are trademarks of W. L. Gore & Associates.

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love on the rocks

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A Girlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Guide to Gift-getting You can tell a lot about a man by the presents he gives you.

By Elisabeth Kwak-Hefferant

32 Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j Adventure

>> >>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> A boyfriend once gave me a tent—a high-quality backpacking tent that’ll last me for decades. I was thrilled to open it—and not just because I needed one. When he’d said an hour earlier, “I’ve got something for you, but we probably should have talked about it first,” I felt like I’d been sucker-punched. At, “Yeah, this is a really big step. I don’t know if you’re ready,” I was choking back nervous vomit. By the time he said, “Well, just open it. If it’s too much, I’ll take it back,” I was in full-blown panic.

I was so filled with sweet relief at receiving that big package containing the tent and not an engagement ring that I wasn’t even mad about his little joke—which is a pretty clear sign. I dumped him a few weeks later in the hopes of finding someone whose impending proposal wouldn’t prompt my gag reflex. It just goes to show: gifts are important—and it’s not just the gift itself but how he gives it. ’Tis the season for gifts galore—and there’s a lot more than a holiday token wrapped up with those ribbons and bows. What he chooses to give you can be illuminating. But what if the signs aren’t as clear as they were for me with the tent? Never fear. With a little interpretation and this handy guide, his next present will be nothing short of a plate-glass window to his soul.

Underwear What he says: “This would look so great on you!”

What it means: Well, that depends. Push-up sports bra? Sorry to be the one to break it to you, but he’s been fantasizing about Jenna Jameson all this time. Bulky thermals? He found a buy-one-get-one-free deal while shopping for his grandma: the thrill is gone.

Sexy yet functional, silky-smooth yet wicking undies with a matching bra? Score! And I do mean score.

Avalanche beacon What he says: “Backcountry bowls, here we come.”

What it means: Red flag: he’s one of those dudes who calls you five times a day “just to check in,” isn’t he? Double red flag: the “receive” mode on your beacon is mysteriously broken—it’ll only “transmit.”

Sleeping pad coupler/set of Lexan wineglasses/biodegradable massage oil What he says: “Picture it, baby: You, me, this, and some John Mayer on my iPod speakers.”

What it means: He’s a hopeless romantic who will shower you with roses and affection. Or he’s a skanky Don Juan who showers everyone with roses and affection. Dead giveaways

that he’s the latter: He unbuttons the top five buttons of his shirt. He decorates his bedroom with mirrors. He leaves “ribbed for her pleasure” condoms in strategic places, like the medicine cabinet, the nightstand, the glove compartment, tucked into his cycling shorts . . .

Stove-cleaning kit What he says: “I figured this would come in handy.”

What it means: He put more thought into what he fed his German shepherd this morning than your gift. And even though you’re an independent supergoddess, do you really want a guy who’s going to make you clean your own stove?

New climbing rack What he says: “It’s everything you need to rock that 5.11!”

What it means: This also depends. Are you the next Beth Rodden? Then he respects your passion, values your relationship, and uses words like “amazing” and “I’m so lucky” when he talks about you to his mom. But if he’s the climber and you’ve never so much as laced up a pair of rock shoes, he doesn’t care that you win marathons or paddle class 5 drops with ease. He just wants to mold you into his personal Bouldering Barbie. Run (but keep the rack—you can get some sweet cash for it on craigslist).

Cooking set What he says: “I know how you love cooking.

Why don’t you whip up some fondue?”

What it means: From now on backcountry meals are your responsibility. And they’d better be good. He didn’t hike hard all day only to sit down to some crappy mac and cheese, you know.

in thE comfort ZonE: GivinG fEEt a hand

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The engineers at Gore know that the hands and feet play a large role in managing body temperature during running. While runners can pull gloves off and on as conditions dictate, they need shoes that allow the body to achieve a thermophysiological balance across a range of conditions: cold, warm, wet and dry.

The solution is GORE-TEX® Footwear with XCR® Product Technology, which allows the feet to manage temperature and humidity while remaining protected from weather and wet ground conditions.

Shop for trail running shoes from Salomon and learn more at gore-tex.com

Backpacking tent What he says: “It’s new, it’s light, and I got you the footprint too. And I picked the blue one ’cause it matches your eyes.”

What it means: Nope, he doesn’t sparkle, but he’s solid, dependable, and will give you a lifetime of happy camping if you treat him right. (Unless, of course, he made you think it was an engagement ring and you almost puked. In fact, that goes for any present: if you taste bile, say good-bye.)

Surprise long weekend getaway at Whistler What he says: “I packed all your gear, we’re in the lodge, and, oh, I booked you a massage.”

What it means: He’s the One. Get down on your knee and propose.

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Ezra Shaw / Getty Images Sport

So, You Think You’ve Got What It Takes to Make the U.S. Bobsled Team?

Get prepared for the longest minute of your life: enthusiasm, determination, and brute force will get you there—or not.

By Vanessa Pierce

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B

obsledding is the longest minute of your life. It’s like being trapped in a tin can and withstanding a 9.0 earthquake.

After pushing the 400-pound “bob” maybe 5 seconds, you jump in and pray the driver gets you down the track smoothly. But smoothly isn’t comfy. The bob has no padding—it’s just a hull made of fiberglass—and the protruding brakes in the backseat destroy your inner thighs. The g-force attacks you after the first curve, with a pressure on your back so destructive that if you’re not ready, you’re broken. At 75 miles per hour, your head—though you try to keep it straight—bobs around like a bobblehead. Your teeth rattle and shake and even chip.

When the minute is done, you’re not sure whether you should cry or die. Concussed and out of breath, you don’t ever want to get back in the bobsled again.

But you do. And you love it.

After four days of trying out for the U.S. Bobsled Team in Lake Placid, New York, that was the general feeling. I hated it, but it was painstakingly addicting. The sport isn’t necessarily “fun,” but the buzz is why athletes bobsled—for the challenge and the adrenaline.

Few people grow up bobsledding; the U.S. Bobsled and Skeleton Federation recruit you. It’s the one Olympic sport that transplants athletes from other sports such as track, soccer, and weightlifting into the world of bobsleigh.

“What’s unusual about this is that we can take someone who has never been in a bobsled before—a phenomenal athlete,” says Bill Tavares, U.S. Bobsled women’s assistant coach. “Depending on their athleticism and gift to learn how to bobsled, they can make our national team in one year and, quite possibly if they came out on an Olympic year, make our Olympic team. We’re the only sport that can do that—take someone from obscurity to the Olympic level.”

Take Vonetta Flowers, for instance. She was the 2002 Winter Olympics gold medalist with teammate Jill Bakken. Vonetta had planned to make the Summer Games as a track athlete but didn’t qualify. She learned how to bobsled in 18 months to become Jill’s

Author Vanessa Pierce arrives at the U.S. Olympic Training Center in Lake Placid, New York.

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brakeman. She’s only 5 feet 7 inches tall and 28 years old. She became the first black person—male or female—to ever win a Winter Games gold medal.

But not just any amazing athlete makes it in this cutthroat sport.

Women’s bobsledding teams consist of two athletes: a brakeman and a driver. For the brakeman the sport lasts about 30 meters, and her

At 75 miles per hour, your head—though you try to keep it straight—bobs around like a bobblehead. job is to push the bob down the ice track. Then she jumps in, and the driver takes it from there, using cables to steer the bob to the finish. The concept is simple; the sport is not. Plus, you have to be “jacked”—huge with more muscle than you know what to do with—to withstand the bobsled ride. The women on the U.S. team are generally taller than 5 feet 6 inches and weigh more than 160 pounds. They can Olympic-clean—an exercise where the weight bar is heaved from floor to shoulder—100 kilos and run a sub-4.0 second 30-meter sprint. They are genetically made for such a sport.

I fit the criteria. So how did this journalist get the chance to try out? It’s simple. I applied online. I always thought my body was more fit for some sort of anaerobic sport, but I played soccer in college. For four years at the University of Washington (UW), I helped my team to a PAC-10 title, the best NCAA showing at that time, and co-captained with now U.S. National Soccer Team keeper and 2008 Olympic gold medalist Hope Solo. I was an Academic All-American and a UW Hall of Famer, and I never thought much about bobsled because I was nearly done with college in 2002, when the International Olympic Committee allowed women to compete.

Fast-forward five years to a career covering skiing for local and national publications. I was touring the Utah Olympic Park Ski Museum, where they were advertising bobsled rides. My mom, who was in town for a visit, says, “Why haven’t you ever tried bobsled?

Your body is perfect for it.” At 5 feet 7 inches and 165 pounds of muscle, I agreed. But I was too old, surely. Curious, I went online to the U.S. Bobsled and Skeleton Federation home page, and right there in the upper-right corner is an icon that reads, “Think You’ve Got What It Takes? Come Try Out for the U.S. Team.”

I checked out the criteria. Five years ago I was there. Could I do it again at 27? I sent in my college stats and received an invitation to try out at the Olympic Training Center (OTC) in Lake Placid. It was early December, and I had until April to get back to fighting form.

With a summer workout packet from my college days, a progression of sprint work and weights, I got started. Instead of freeskiing on the weekends, I methodically did lap after endless lap at Alta Ski Area in Utah—without stopping. My quads were solid. I was squatting reps of 260 pounds and cleaning 180 pounds. I biked and ran and skied. I was scarily strong and ready to go. But not just any über-in-shape person is cut out for bobsled. From day 1 to day 4 of camp at Lake Placid, I soon found out it was an uphill challenge.

Day 1: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 On the first morning of camp, we meet up with the coaches—Bill Tavares; Julie Childress, an injured U.S. brakeman; and Phoebe Burns, a U.S. driver. Both girls have personalities that are larger

than life. Their voices, their laughter, their auras—all are loud and in charge. They strike me as the typical bobsledders—a bit cuckoo (to go down in that tin can) but extremely fun. Julie is a former weightlifter who likes riding motorcycles, and Phoebe is a restauranteur who grew up in Lake Placid and has been driving for a couple of seasons now. In her first year, she got an overall silver medal in the America’s Cup (one tier below World Cup) and is vying for the spot to drive the third U.S. sled.

“They say that you can always tell a bobsledder when they walk in the room because they are so loud,” Julie tells me later. “We’re the loudest people traveling. I would have to say that none of the girls I know are shy. A couple of them are pretty quiet, but most of them are outgoing and have a zest for life.”

Everyone here is cool and has that zest, especially my roommate, Tracy Call. She is one of three girls, including me, and seven guys at the camp. At 31 and completely competitive, she decided to give bobsled a go. She is a rugby player and has a solid professional career as a consultant for Attention Marketing in Minnesota.

This morning the coaches explain to us the nuances of the sled, which can run up to $30,000 for a brand-new two-man model.

“Don’t scratch it; don’t carry it wrong; don’t breathe on it” was their warning. We comply.

From there we each get to take our first run in the bobsled. Most of us are stunned when we emerge from the bob. “I can’t really say I loved it, but I didn’t really hate it either,” says Tracy about her first ride down the track. “It literally takes your breath away.”

One of the athletes in the group gets motion sickness and asks the coaches if it gets better. Overhearing, a skeleton (basically face-first luge) athlete says, “Bobsled is the most painful, miserable sport. I would never do that again.”

I think after the first run, most would agree, but unlike him we all want to go again. (Maybe that’s why he switched to skeleton.)

Although the ride hurts your infrastructure—you can feel your bones rattle, not just your muscles—it’s oddly fun. It’s not quite the comfy fun of the Matterhorn ride at Disneyland but is crazy-masochisticbrutal fun.

That afternoon we get a tutorial in pushing. Back at the OTC gym, we learn the specifics of pushing on a “push cart,” or a cart with weights that simulates a bob. The technique is difficult to learn.

The pusher essentially has to commit to falling forward with both hands on the sled’s handholds and then explode forward. It may sound simple, but it’s not. It reminds me of learning shot put in high school. The concept is easy to grasp, but perfecting the technique, especially the explosion from the hip at exactly the right time, can’t be picked up the first time. Everyone is frustrated, but we also know that we have only this one session before getting timed in it. The stress is mounting.

By dinner we are all feeling the pain. Phoebe pops into the OTC dining room and screams, “Make sure to take four ibuprofen.” That pretty much sums up the day.

Day 2: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 We’re sore, but the guys are complaining more—and we’re talking NFL players and former collegiate athletes. Tracy and I can’t help but poke fun at them: huge 200-plus-pound babies. After breakfast we head out again, load up the sleds on trucks that take them to the top of the track, and prepare to push. Tracy and I get a little competitive now that we’re used to pushing on the ice track without track shoes. She pushes a 6.23, and I get a 6.29, but my sled wins that round with better driving by Phoebe. For comparison, USA1 sled and 2006 Olympic silver medalists Valerie Fleming and Shauna Rohback push about a 5-second split.

To make it worse, I suck at testing. I get a 4.7-second 30-meter sprint. I have to shave off 0.7 to be average. Though I can clean just as much as the U.S. bobsledders, that’s not so important here.

Sprint testing clearly is the one and only test. Based on sprint results, Bill makes decisions about who has potential. The other tests, including the five-jump test, the vertical, and the next day’s push scores, don’t seem to matter much or get the coaches’ attention.

Vanessa Pierce and Phoebe Burns begin a run down the track.

I’m heartbroken, realizing that all the training I did over the winter seems to have been in vain.

Tracy gets good news about her sprints. Bill says the score is “good” and that she has potential. Her next day’s push score is proving his point. She’s fast.

“Coming out of my cushy life to try out is a big step for me,” Tracy says. Before arriving she lost 20 pounds and paid a personal trainer to help her get fit, but she didn’t have big expectations.

She admits that she didn’t do much sprint training or major weightlifting either, but some people just have that natural speed, and she’s a brute.

I hear the painful truth later: “You never know what someone puts down on the résumé,” Bill says. “So we get them here and test them and see where they stand. Truthfully, there are some who really can’t make our elite level, but if they want to continue in the sport, we won’t stop them. We’re not going to stop anyone from participating in this sport. If you love it, you love it.”

At this point I’m not loving it. I cap off the day by chipping my tooth by biting a hangnail. I decide to call it a bobsled accident. It sounds more hardcore. Overall, though, I am pretty bummed.

Day 3: Thursday, April 17, 2008 “I shit my pants!” one of the campers says, pointing to his poopy tights already off and put in his bag. Within seconds everyone knows that someone had an accident during the bobsled ride. It’s not too uncommon actually. With up to 5 g’s pressing on your body while it’s getting wracked inside a fiberglass shell, your body wants to do all sorts of things that don’t seem so classy. (The next day Ethan sees a poop stain in the back of his sled; everyone gathers

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Clockwise: Coach Bill Tavares, Phoebe Burns, the track at Lake Placid, New York.

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around and nearly dies from laughter.) The culprit, Ryan Mertens, had had his gall bladder removed last year, and his colon can act up. We call him “poopy pants” the rest of the day.

That afternoon at push testing, I decide that the sport is simply beyond my level. It’s hard to admit that as a competitive athlete. It sucks actually.

It’s not quite the comfy fun of the Matterhorn ride at Disneyland but is crazy-masochisticbrutal fun.

“You’re not in control and you’re expendable,” says Julie about the life of a brakeman. “If a girl comes down (the pipeline) and is a few hundredths faster than you, you will not be in that sled pushing because they want the fastest girl, and that’s this sport.

You’re going to form friendships and be in someone’s sled, but it’s not about friendship when it comes to race day; it’s about who wins the race off, who’s the fastest.”

Last year Phoebe was forced to pick experience and weight versus friendship when her coaches wanted her to get better, and she could do that only with a better pusher. She decided to ditch her friend, with whom she came into the sport, at least temporarily. They are still training together, but in bobsled a brakeman’s position is never permanent. “It’s a fine line between team and individual sport,” Phoebe says. “This sport is timed down to the hundredth second— everything counts.”

Julie adds: “You are pushing yourself to the ultimate brink if you want to compete at that level. You have to be relatively tough.”

Upon hearing this I’m not sure if the reward is worth giving up my full-time job, and beating myself up and fighting against the clock. At this point I’m just happy to be there for the experience.

Since all the testing is over, the group decides to hit the town for a drink at a local restaurant that overlooks a frozen Lake Placid.

Then we head out to bob driver John Napier’s house, where he builds a raging bonfire. At around 11 we take off to play some pool at Wiseguys in town. It doesn’t get too out of hand, but hanging out with big bobber guys with larger-than-life bodies and personalities is always a fun time.

Day 4: Friday, April 18, 2008 I’m just having fun now. The stress is off, so I jump in the sled for one more ride. My head bangs up against my knee, and I realize that that’s why the knee is bruised. My head had been bobbing around all week, and I was bruised everywhere, from the helmet bumping the knee, from the brakes protruding from the bottom of the sled, from whiplash—everything.

Tracy slips and still gets a 6.25 push time. I get a 6.33. Bill tells her she can come back in August for push camp with the World Cup team, but her strength (particularly upper-body) and sprint times have to improve. She needs a sub-4.0 sprint and a better push time, but she’s willing to put in the time because it gives her a goal.

“So you’re going for it?” I ask.

“Why not? You only live once,” she responds.

Otherwise it would be back to her “cushy” life as usual. A number of clients already told her they would sponsor the effort. She’s lucky because her job allows her to pursue something like this. She works from home and makes a nice salary. A lot of people don’t have the luxury to go for such an expensive dream. Funding doesn’t come until you are one of the top World Cup athletes on the team.

Being that Tracy hasn’t ever lifted upper body and didn’t train in sprints, she’ll likely improve and make the team. From there, she’ll be in the pusher pool of athletes who are vying for a USA1–3 sled spot. The reality is that her scores and efforts have to be stellar.

In an Olympic year, the pressure and the competition are fierce.

Former bobsledders who took a break to pursue sports in the Beijing Games are coming back. But for Tracy there is a clear natural ability, and it seems that it has to be that way with this sport. Julie mentions Elana Meyers, a softball player who didn’t sprint or lift much but shows up and blows everyone away, running a 3.9 at 180 pounds and cleaning about 100 kilos. Tracy has amazingly huge quads and natural strength and power. I, on the other hand, have to work so hard to be at that level.

Ryan “Poopy Pants” Mertens gets told that he has to improve his 30 by a few tenths. He can come back in August and retest at the next camp, and if he improves he will be invited to compete against the team’s current members. He’s dedicated the past few years to making the Olympics, first as a cyclist (but health problems failed him there), then at bobsled. He dumped a longtime girlfriend because she wanted to get married and have babies and he wanted to be an Olympian. Even if he gets in the pool, the harsh reality for someone who doesn’t blow away the competition at this camp is that he or she definitely won’t when up against the finest specimens participating in bobsled.

So today I just have a good ride and say my good-byes. These bobbers are some of the best people I’ve met in a while because they do have the bobsled spirit: that outrageousness and zest for life that seem innate in a human who wants to slide down an ice track at 75 miles per hour in a tin can.

Here’s What It Takes In August, Tracy went back to test. She didn’t make the World Cup team, but she was invited to push at the America’s Cup level. As for Ryan, he didn’t make the cut, but he says he will continue to train and try again this spring.

In other words, it’s tough to make the team. But if you meet the following criteria, you have a good chance of at least trying. Remember, however, that in an Olympic year the competition is even tougher.

If you think you have what it takes, visit www.usbsf. com to apply for camp. The camps are held in March/ April and August/September at the U.S. Olympic Training Center in Lake Placid, New York. The cost of each camp is around $500 and covers food, housing, coaching, and evaluation. You are responsible for your travel to and from the camp.

Criteria Height: 5' 6''–6' Weight: 150–175 lbs.

Speed: 4.10 seconds or faster in 30-meter standing-start sprint (reality is closer to 4.0 and below); 3.80 seconds or faster in 30-meter fly-start sprint (i.e., head start of a couple of feet) Jumps: Vertical jump of at least 25 inches

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Grant Dixon / Lonely Planet Images

the last OUTPOST

The woman who started and runs the Everest Base Camp Medical Clinic is neither an elite climber nor an adrenaline junkie. She’s a doctor from Montana who wanted to help the Sherpa and Nepali people. Now she’s in charge of the highest-altitude emergency room in the world.

By Kim Thielman-Ibes

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“I was really concerned that Joe (Hughes) might not make it through the night. They’d brought him down through the Khumbu Icefall—over 7,000 feet—to our medical clinic at Everest base camp. His face was blue, each breath was a struggle, and he was drowning in his own blood,” says Luanne Freer, MD, founder of Everest Base Camp Medical Clinic (EBC Clinic), the highest-altitude emergency room in the world. “It was too dicey for a helicopter to land. The air was too thin, it was dark and snowing, and we already had the remains of one helicopter from years past sitting outside our tent. By the next morning, conditions had not improved. We put him in the Gamow bag, artificially lowering his altitude. That bag blew up. We put him in another, and it held. Joe pleaded with me to stay in the medical tent until the helicopter could land. I was concerned that his high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) would get worse unless we got him down quickly, yet we couldn’t wait for the weather to clear for the chopper. This man was as close to death as I’ve seen from HAPE.” In 2003 the establishment of the EBC Clinic by Dr. Freer, a Bozeman, Montana, emergency care physician, came with a lot of skepticism. “That skepticism,” says David Morton, Alpine Ascents Mount Everest guide, “is something that goes with the whole world of climbing. There’s always curiosity about people’s backgrounds, and the majority of climbers feel that most doctors lack the knowledge base on high-altitude issues because they don’t spend the time on the mountain. Luanne’s limited climbing background was initially a source of doubt.”

Dr. Freer may not have “extreme climber” on her résumé, but she’s absolutely earned her stripes within this elite climbing community. “Yes, I felt the suspicion,” she says. “And even though my crampons may not take me above 22,000 feet, showing up year after year with a heartfelt purpose and determination is a proven way to ingratiate oneself into a tough group.” David notes that over the past six years Dr. Freer has overcome the naysayers through the strength of her personality, her clinic’s lifesaving track record, and her passion for the Sherpa and Nepali people.

For more than 85 years, summiting Mount Everest has been and remains one of the world’s ultimate challenges. Known in Tibet as the Mother Goddess of the Universe, the mountain has a reputation for attracting swashbuckling adventurers, rogue personalities, and nomadic tribes of climbers. In 1923, less than a year after George Mallory led a summit attempt, he was asked why he wanted to climb Everest. His immortal reply: “Because it’s there.” As of 2008 more than 3,000 climbers have braved violent storms, towering séracs, bottomless crevasses, mountain sickness, delirium, and broken and exhausted limbs, pushing themselves to the brink of insanity and financial despair to summit this highest surface on earth. Unlike Joe Hughes, more than 200 alpinists have failed to return to their loved ones. Many remain forever entombed in Everest’s icy grip, while hundreds of others, thanks to the EBC Clinic, safely returned home. Dr. Freer has become an integral part of Mount Everest’s epic journey.

“Well before we met Luanne, our decision to go to Everest was influenced by her and the presence of the EBC Clinic,” says Liz Pace Hughes, accomplished climber and wife of Joe Hughes. “I followed a lot of what Luanne was doing in 2003 when she established the clinic. We didn’t have a doctor on our team, so I knew that if something happened to us, she would be the one to help.” Liz and Joe made their life-changing climb in 2004, during one of the busiest years Everest had ever seen, with more than 330 climbers summiting. (It took 71 years for the first 600 to summit, but 2007 saw 597 climbers summiting in a single season.)

Joe contracted HAPE on his summit attempt between camp 1 (at 19,900 feet—the first of four camps above base camp) and camp 2 (at 21,300 feet—just under 8,000 feet from the summit). “I’d been

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through the Khumbu several times before, but that day I felt like I weighed a million pounds,” says Joe. “I was so tired, but I knew I just had to keep walking. With the aid of a Sherpa, I made it into base camp. Luanne was put there to save my life—and she did.”

As the number of climbers has increased so too has the number of guiding services. Beyond the full-service guides like Alpine Ascents and Mountain Professionals—where guides typically have an emergency medical technician or first-responder background to support their expedition teams above base camp—the number of à la carte expedition services has grown. These guiding options cost significantly less, but they often come with significantly more risk, zero to minimal medical support, and less stringent requirements regarding a climber’s big-mountain experience. With the increase of climbers over the past several years, Everest base camp can swell to 1,000 people and in a busy year attract up to 10,000 trekkers.

Medically, anything above 11,500 feet is considered high altitude; above 18,000 feet it’s extreme. Everest’s base camp resides on the Khumbu Glacier at just under 18,000 feet, and Everest’s summit peaks out at 29,035 feet. The fascination to conquer this “death zone” comes with severe medical risks offset and often ignored for the undeniable personal rewards that this cold, hard mountain begrudgingly hands out. The mountain holds certain dangers for sure, but it is the increasingly thinning air and the lack of oxygen that consistently wrecks the most havoc on one’s body. The lack of oxygen can and will exacerbate any lingering medical conditions and may ignite otherwise unknown physical ailments.

“There is no question that altitude is the foremost issue in everyone’s mind in terms of serious medical problems while summiting Everest,” says David Morton. “It’s what we worry about the most. The medical problems we consistently see are the Khumbu cough—it can actually break a rib—and other altitude-related respiratory issues.

These are the things that cost my clients or keep them from summiting. Many of the respiratory issues happen at base camp while acclimatizing. Our approach to medical has changed since 2003, and that has everything to do with Luanne and the EBC Clinic.”

Alpine Ascents, one of the five main full-service commercial guiding services, once brought its own doctor each season. David notes that most of them volunteered, primarily for the climbing opportunity. “Our doctors used to come to us with various backgrounds in terms of medical training, and most didn’t have that solid high-altitude knowledge base that Luanne and her staff have. Teams still bring doctors, but most of them end up going to Luanne for consultations, especially in regard to high-altitude-related illnesses.”

Ryan Waters, a Mount Everest guide for Mountain Professionals, finds that each expedition has varying levels of medical expertise and kits. “You always want to have this feeling of self-reliance, especially higher up on the mountain, but it’s great to know that once at base camp you can hand it over to the EBC Clinic physicians,” he says. (The EBC Clinic has neither the funds to pay for costly annual climbing permits nor the expertise at this time to manage technical emergency evacuations above base camp.)

Waters also praises the clinic’s medical coverage of their Sherpas.

Prior to the establishment of the clinic, many of the Sherpas would forgo medical treatment, concerned that it would cost too much and that it would eliminate them from the climbing expedition. Because Sherpas rely on Everest for the majority of their annual income, no work means no pay.

Dr. Freer not only is aiding the Sherpa and Nepali people who work at Mount Everest through medical care at the EBC Clinic but also is teaching them first aid through the Khumbu Climbing School.

“The Sherpas rave about the medical knowledge they’ve received from this school,” says David Morton. “There’s this sort of machismo attitude with the Sherpa, but really it’s a lack of knowledge. They don’t want to say that they’re sick because they don’t want to lose

Dr. Luanne Freer in front of her first Everest Base Camp Clinic, April 2004

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rob becker

Dr. Freer checking on a patient prior to transporting, May 2006

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Prior to the EBC Clinic, the porters and the Nepali people working at Everest didn’t have access to a lot of medicine or knowledge of altitude sickness.

their job. With Luanne around they’re more likely to get something taken care of before it becomes a big problem. It’s pretty cool to watch that.”

Dr. Freer speaks some Nepali, though her students sometimes tell her she’s speaking Spanish to them again. “My students here really value education,” she says, “and I value the education I receive from teaching them. They appreciate what they have instead of longing for what they don’t have, and they reorient me every year, helping me remember what’s really important in life: relationships, family and friends, being kind to yourself, and giving yourself to help others.”

Back in Montana on a warm, sunny day overlooking Gallatin Valley, Dr. Freer sits at her kitchen counter with Tuck, a sweet golden Labrador she’d rescued from the pound, contentedly lapsed on the floor beside her. Her dark brown hair hides part of her face as she leans over her computer and listens to the Medcor intercom sitting next to her keyboard. Medcor is a privately held company with hundreds of clinics around the world. It provides clinical interventions and related management services. Dr. Freer oversees Medcor’s clinical and emergency services in Yellowstone National Park and has recently assisted the company in putting together a similar program at Midway Atoll, a cluster of three islands between Hawaii and Japan (ironically, one of the lowest elevations on earth).

Much of Dr. Freer’s work is done remotely, allowing her to spend a large chunk of her time networking and fundraising for the EBC Clinic, along with providing her three months each spring to oversee the clinic personally.

As much as her life is constantly evolving, her door is constantly revolving. She’s just returned from Thailand, where she spent her fiftieth birthday on the back of an elephant. “I’ve had this dream since I was two years old,” says Dr. Freer. “I’ve always wanted to swim with the elephants. I was turning 50, and I didn’t want another year to go by without making that dream a reality.” Turning dreams into reality is at the core of how she approaches life.

“Luanne has always been very self-directed,” says Robert Shesser, MD, professor and chair of the Department of Emergency Medicine at George Washington University Medical Center. “She was a leader and an opinion maker in our program from the start.

Her work in Nepal is something we’re very proud of. She’s always strived to improve the situation of others.”

When Dr. Freer was a senior resident, her faculty advisor, Mark S. Smith, MD, asked her what her niche was. Stumped, she asked for an explanation. He told her it wasn’t enough to be good at what you do, and he counseled her to marry her passion with her profession.

Dr. Freer remembers that he warned her against simply punching the clock, as it would only lead to disappointment. Her passions combined medicine with camping, climbing, and canyoneering. So, in 1992, 12 hours after graduation, this board-certified emergency physician packed her bags and moved out west from Washington, D.C. She found a seasonal job performing wilderness medicine with Yellowstone Park.

“The backbone of wilderness medicine was not and is still not huge,” says Dr. Freer. “Figuring out the best thing for a patient in the backcountry is an evolving science, but it’s exciting stuff.” She had found her niche. She not only is the medical director for Yellowstone National Park but also is the past president and a current board member of the Wilderness Medical Society (WMS). Founded in 1983, the WMS is the world’s leading organization devoted to advancing wilderness medicine healthcare, research, and education.

Dr. Freer is also a volunteer for the Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA), a voluntary nonprofit organization whose objective is to reduce casualties in the Nepal Himalayas. Beyond her first-aid class for Sherpas at the Khumbu Climbing School in Nepal, Dr. Freer maintains a close association with her alma mater by setting up rotations in wilderness medicine for its residents.

It was in Yellowstone Park that Dr. Freer first started researching the effects of altitude on the human body. “Over a quarter of my patients in Yellowstone were developing some form of altitude sickness,” she says. “The more I researched the subject, the more I wanted to know.” Opportunity knocked in 1999 via a link from Yellowstone to Vancouver, B.C., and finally Nepal. Dr. Freer had become a bear expert in Yellowstone and was asked to share her expertise in a speech to the Wilderness Medical Society in Vancouver.

From there she was approached by a fellow physician who was organizing a trip to volunteer at a clinic in Nepal. Nineteen days later Dr. Freer found her true calling: philanthropy.

“It was my first trip to Nepal, and after just a few days I knew I needed to figure out a way to keep coming back,” she says. “This was my destiny.” Dr. Freer fell in love with the Nepali people, their culture, and their snowcapped landscape. She unofficially adopted a Nepali family and sponsored their children through school. “We would go to these villages, where the nearest doctor was 10 miles away on foot,” she says with a note of wonder in her voice. “In these remote villages, we would see 600 Nepali over the course of a couple of days. Can you imagine?”

In the spring of 2002, unencumbered by debt or family and graciously supported by her employer, Dr. Freer spent three and a half months living and volunteering for the HRA in a Sherpa village just a few thousand feet below Everest’s base camp. Friends on an Everest climbing expedition persuaded her to trek up to base camp, and the rest, as they say, is history.

“Once at base camp,” she recalls, “I was approached by quite a few climbers for medical advice, many on teams without physicians and many on teams with physicians unfamiliar with the treatment for serious altitude or diarrheal illness and the medical system in Nepal.” Known for her swift calls to action, Dr. Freer immediately lobbied the HRA Board of Directors to support a new nonprofit clinic at Everest’s base camp. The goal was to support the HRA’s mission of reducing casualties due to high-altitude sickness in the Himalayas and to provide low-cost medical care for the Nepali people. Though she garnered their support, it came without funding. Dr. Freer left for the States with a mission, spending countless

Women’s j Adventure 45

From top: Dr. Freer’s physician services sometimes includes some general dentistry for the locals, April 2006; Dr. Freer climbing the icefall at the base of Everest, September 2008

hours recruiting sponsors and previous HRA volunteer physicians and collecting donated equipment and medical supplies.

“Luanne went into this with her usual style and tremendous energy,” remarks Dr. Shesser. “She’s very active in getting things done.” True to form, within one year this novice-climbing doctor from Montana, in partnership with the Himalayan Rescue Association, put a new page in the history books by establishing the EBC Clinic—the first and only high-altitude emergency room in the world.

“With the clinic’s tie to the HRA, it’s really there to help the Sherpas and the Nepali people,” says Ryan Waters. “Prior to the EBC Clinic, the porters and the Nepali people working at Everest didn’t have access to a lot of medicine or knowledge of altitude sickness.”

Things have changed dramatically for the EBC Clinic since Dr. Freer’s first year. “I cried a lot that first year,” she says. “It was discouraging. Our power source failed, but somehow it all worked out. We saved lives and got the experience needed to come back the following year.” Along with the rest of Everest’s base camp inhabitants, the clinic (a 12-by-20-foot canvas tent) sits on the Khumbu Glacier—a continually moving sheet of ice.

Thankfully, the EBC Clinic finally owns its new and improved medical tent and much of its medical equipment. These aren’t the only changes taking place. During 2006 Dr. Freer attempted a climb to camp 2. At 20,000 feet she developed HAPE, the same illness that Joe Hughes contracted three short years before. “It came on very suddenly, without warning,” she says. “After some hesitation, I realized I’d have to do what I tell my patients and turned around. I don’t think I have the right stuff.”

Just don’t tell that to Liz and Joe Hughes. “She saved our baby girl and she saved Joe,” says Liz. Both of the Hugheses were supposed to summit that fateful year. Liz, hoping to be the first female climber from Malta to summit, fainted while acclimatizing at base camp. They immediately sought help at the EBC Clinic from Dr. Freer, who broke the good news: Liz was pregnant. After much backand-forth discussion, Liz returned to the States while Joe pursued their dream solo.

“Two miracles happened at the EBC Clinic,” says Joe. “It’s karma; it’s fate. It saved our lives and our daughter’s.” Their daughter’s name is Tara Luanne, Tara for the goddess of compassion, and Luanne . . .

“What Luanne did for us is amazing,” says Liz, “but what she’s done for the Nepali people is priceless.”

Through the past six seasons the EBC Clinic has come to the aid of more than 1,300 people; half were Sherpa or Nepali—and all of these locals were treated for free, subsidized through the fees paid

by Everest’s climbing expeditions and their clients.

“We haven’t lost a patient yet,” says Dr. Freer. “We provide excellent care for people at base camp and for those who can get to us from high on the mountain. Joe Hughes was the closest we’ve come to losing a patient, and that’s why his story is so important.

He was able to get down the mountain; once here he had a fighting chance.” It’s because of Joe Hughes and the many other climbers who weren’t so lucky that Dr. Freer has been asked by Nepali officials to set up a technical rescue team for mountains in the region. “I may not know what ropes to get, what technical equipment is necessary, but I do know what medical training is needed, and I’ve worked with and have the resources of the best climbers on Everest for the technical climbing expertise,” says Dr. Freer.

She squirms in her chair when others applaud her as selfless for her work on Mount Everest. “What I do is very selfish,” she says, “because I get back so much more than I give.” Dr. Freer recently spoke to a class of fifth-graders in the Cottonwood Elementary School in Bozeman, Montana. Her parting comment was a favorite quote by Howard Thurman: “Don’t just ask what the world needs, ask what makes you come alive, then go and do it. Because what the world needs is people who come alive.”

For more information on the Everest Base Camp Medical Clinic, visit www.everester.org.

46 Women’s j Adventure

kim ibes

Dr. Freer at home in Bozeman, Montana, 2008

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j Adventure 47

48 Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j Adventure

Get Your Glide On Snow season? Finally. This year consider a cross-country escape where you can put your best foot forward . . . and then follow it with the other one.

By Debra Bokur

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j Adventure 49

O

courtesy Tamarack Resort

ne of the great gifts of a snowy landscape is how absolutely silent it can be—a feature that evaporates pretty quickly in a noisy lift line or in a crowd of skiers all swooshing down the same slope. A pair of cross-country skis provides a portal, allowing you to disappear into an alternate universe—one still filled with snow but with a slower, quieter, and far more contemplative perspective to explore.

“A lot of people’s reaction to cross-country skiing is that it’s superhard and demanding,” says Kikkan Randall, cross-country ski racer and member of the 2002 and 2006 Olympic Cross Country Ski Teams. “In reality, putting on skis and heading outdoors to glide across the snow is a great experience, and it gives you the chance to move at a different pace. You have the time to really appreciate your surroundings—you become familiar with the snow patterns and how the snow rests on the trees. It’s really your own personal experience.”

When planning a cross-country ski vacation, advises Kikkan, don’t just focus on the accommodations. Pay attention to what’s offered in the way of terrain and trail maintenance. “Well-groomed trails are very important,” she says. “That doesn’t mean they have to be freshly groomed; it can just be that some tracks have been laid down. I prefer places that have a good variety of trails and terrain, and it’s always a bonus to be able to ski right out the door or access trails from very close by.”

No matter where you are in the country, the following cross-country ski destinations fit the bill.

PACIFIC NORTHWEST

Tamarack Resort Nordic & Snowshoe Center, Idaho 90 miles north of Boise in Idaho’s Payette River Mountains Named for the tamarack trees—a conifer that changes colors in the fall and loses its leaves—that fill the valley glades in western Idaho, the groomed trails here are part of the 25 K Lyle Nelson Nordic and Snowshoe Trail system. Tracked with both classic and skate-ski lanes, the terrain is also ideal for snowshoeing. The 10 K stretch of the Canoe Ridge Trail affords sweeping views of both Indian Valley and the Frank Church–River of No Return Wilderness Area north of Boise, where the terrain ranges from wide meadows and aspen groves to thickly forested trails bordered with pine, fir, and those namesake tamaracks.

Bonus: Dogs are allowed on both Nordic and snowshoe trails. Day use fees for the trail system are $15 adult and $7 youth.

➤Specials The Backcountry Discovery package (January 2 to March 22) starts at $295 per person per night and includes a fullday backcountry experience. The price is based on an eight-person occupancy in one of the resort’s Estate Homes—so it’s time to call your seven closest friends! www.tamarackidaho.com Sheep Mountain Lodge, South Central Alaska On Glenn Highway between Palmer and Glennallen Alaskan natives Anjanette and Zack Steer own and operate this secluded getaway, located about two hours’ driving time from Anchorage. “I always advise guests to plan their stays here around the lunar schedule so they can experience the Northern Lights,” says Zack. “The show starts by early November and continues through the end of March or later. It’s often bright enough to ski at night without needing headlamps.” Besides 12-plus miles of groomed classical and skate-skiing trails with interpretive signs along the way, there’s easy access to unlimited backcountry skiing among stands of balsam, poplar, spruce, and aspen. You’ll have 160-degree views of Matanuska Glacier and the Chugach and Talkeetna mountain ranges. Zack, a repeat participant in the historic Iditarod sled race, keeps a sled dog kennel on the premises, and the Steers are happy to customize vacation packages to include mushing, guided snow treks, and wildlife viewing (Dall sheep, moose, or bears, anyone?).

50 Women’s j Adventure

On the trails at Tamarack Resort

➤Specials Cross-country ski escapes in a Deluxe Cabin begin at $189 per night for one to two guests, with a $10 charge for each additional person; Classic Cabins begin at $149 per night for one to two guests, also with a $10 charge for each extra person. Access to the woodstove sauna and Jacuzzi are included; ski rentals and meals are not. Groomed trails start right outside your door. During winter months you’ll be preparing your own meals in your cabin’s fully equipped kitchen—so be sure to stop for groceries on your way to the lodge. www.sheepmountain.com Where the Locals Go Anchorage, Alaska, maintains an enormous system of groomed and backcountry trails surrounding the city, with 425 K of wilderness trails and 193 K of paved urban trails. In other parts of the state, the Alaska Railroad provides twice-yearly ski train service, chartered by the Nordic Ski Association, to rugged backcountry areas (www.anchorage-nordicski.com; www.travelalaska.com; www.anchorage.net). A few short miles northeast of Fairbanks (www.explorefairbanks.com), the Birch Hill Recreation Area includes both the Birch Hill Cross Country Ski Center and the Jim Whisenhant Cross Country Ski Trail System (8 K of these trails are lighted for night skiing). In Oregon public cross-country terrain suited to all levels surrounds Mount Hood and its lower slopes (http://gorp.away. com/gorp/resources/us_national_forest/or/ski_moun.htm). Farther north in Washington, Crystal Springs Snow Park includes the Iron Horse State Park trail and the Erling Stordahl ski trails, with a 20 K skate-ski lane and a 3 K snowshoe trail. Permits are required, with single-day permits available (www.parks.wa.gov/winter).

NORTHEAST

Bethel Inn Resort, Bethel, Maine About 50 miles southwest of Augusta and 70 miles northwest of Portland Bethel Inn was founded in 1913 as lodging for the patients of wellness pioneer John Gehring, MD, who advocated the importance of combining medical and mental therapy with regular outdoor exercise for overall health. Today the inn offers fine dining, luxury accommodations, a spa, and 40 K of stellar ski trails. The undulating landscape of forest paths and wide fields rimmed by stone fences is typical of western Maine, with bonus views of the Mahoosuc Mountain Range and the Androscoggin River valley. The majority of trails offer a full skate-ski lane plus machine-groomed tracks (with several trails limited to classic Nordic skiing). For experienced cross-country skiers, the local Pine Hill Competition trail system is a scant quarter mile away (you can ski there) and provides an additional 10 K of more challenging terrain, winding among stands of mature white pines. There’s a full-service Nordic center with a ski shop, instructors, and twice-daily lessons for all levels.

➤Specials The resort’s Cross Country Ski package begins at $70 per person per night, with unlimited cross-country skiing, full use of the resort facilities, and standard accommodations. Meals can be added for $40 more per person per day (hearty breakfast and four-course dinner). www.bethelinn.com Eagle Mountain House, New Hampshire 70 miles from Portland and 140 miles from Boston

➤Specials Winter season cross-country packages begin at $69 per person per night for a standard room plus discounted trail passes.

Complete cross-country packages, including room, trail passes, and a full breakfast, start at $99 per person per night. www.eaglemt.com Stoweflake Mountain Resort & Spa, Vermont About a half-hour drive from Burlington and three and a half hours from Boston Perched at the foot of Mount Mansfield, Vermont’s highest peak, Stoweflake has been owned and operated by the same family for three generations. The property has 60 acres of cross-country ski area, including 5 K of groomed trails. These trails join directly with the largest interconnected cross-country trail system in the country, covering 100 K of the state’s rural, mountain slope terrain, suitable to all abilities.

Bonus: this eco-friendly resort is powered almost exclusively by geothermal-generated electricity, and only natural, local ingredients are used in the spa and the restaurants.

courtesy EAGLE MOUNTAIN HOUSE

Listed in 1995 on the National Trust for Historic Preservation in Jackson, New Hampshire, this elegant New England hotel has nearly 150 K of Nordic ski trails, covering meadows, open paths, three

river valleys, and old-growth New England forest, maintained by the Jackson Ski Touring Foundation (www.jacksonxc.org). Foundation trails also connect with Appalachian Mountain Club trails in Pinkham Notch and with White Mountain National Forest backcountry trails. The Eagle Mountain Fields route is a fairly easy 4.5 K of even and gently undulating terrain, with scenic loops around fields and the banks of Wildcat River Valley. Eagle Mountain House was the site of last year’s National NCAA Cross Country Finals and is affiliated with nearby Great Glen Trails, located at the base of Mount Washington. Hotel guests receive reduced ski rentals and have access to lessons from past members of the U.S. Olympic Cross Country Ski Team.

Eagle Mountain House, Jackson, New Hampshire Women’s j Adventure 51

Skate, Nordic, Classic?

courtesy Women’s Winter tour

Confused by all the terminology? Kaye Krapohl, director and founder of the Women’s Winter Tour, clears things up: “Nordic is the umbrella term for cross-country skiing in general,” she explains. “There are two basic legs to Nordic skiing: classic and skate-skiing. Skate-skiing is like speed-skiing, sometimes also referred to as freestyle. Classic refers to your traditional cross-country tour skiing. Tracks for classic skiing are usually narrow, but skate-skiing requires much wider tracks. Many resorts groom their trails for both and may or may not designate separate areas for snowshoeing.”

➤Specials Winter getaway options include a three-night CrossCountry Ski or Snowshoe package with resort accommodations, daily breakfast, and a three-day trail pass from $414 per person, based on double occupancy (available for nonholiday periods only). www.stoweflake.com Where the Locals Go Stretching the length of Vermont and the Green Mountains, the Catamount Trail is the longest public Nordic trail in North America, with 300 miles of wilderness routes, groomed cross-country trails, and old logging roads, with stretches appropriate to all skill levels of cross-country skiers and snowshoers (www.catamounttrail.org).

In Rangeley, Maine, the Rangeley Cross Country Ski Club’s trail system is 65 K, comprising several interconnecting loops that wind through forests and across fields (www.rangeleymaine.com/ nordicski.shtml). The town of Conway, New Hampshire, has a 100acre trail network, and the White Mountains National Forest has extensive backcountry trials, some following old logging roads (www.mtwashingtonvalley.org). The Jackson Ski Touring Foundation, a community-based nonprofit, maintains 148 K of trails in and around the village of Jackson, New Hampshire (www.jacksonxc.org).

MIDWEST

Crystal Mountain, Michigan In Michigan’s lower northwest, about 28 miles from Traverse City and 130 miles from Grand Rapids More than 40 K of groomed cross-country trails coil through the resort grounds and extend through Michigan Legacy Art Park, a 30-acre preserve with more than 40 sculptures interpreting Michigan’s history and culture. “Crystal offers a diversity of terrain that appeals to both the elite racer and those new to the sport,” says Kaye Krapohl, director and founder of the Women’s Winter Tour (WWT), held annually at the resort. “The terrain is challenging but not threatening. It’s also very scenic, winding through meadows and pine forests. The back 15 K is in the woods and is also a great place to snowshoe.” Après-ski, Crystal has a new, LEED-certified 18,500square-foot spa for posttrail pampering.

➤Specials Plan your stay from January 30 to February 1 and enjoy the WWT (many competitors arrive in costume for the themed cross-country ski race). Specially priced packages for the weekend begin at $159 per night (accommodations range from hotel rooms to five-bedroom townhouses), with trail pass and special rates at the spa. Other activities include the LUNAFEST Film Festival (proceeds benefit the Breast Cancer Fund and a local domestic abuse shelter), chocolate-and-wine appreciation classes, cross-country and downhill ski clinics, and a party with live music. www.womenswintertour.com; www.crystalmountain.com

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Hamming it up at the Women’s Winter Tour, Crystal Mountain, Michigan

Telemark Resort, Wisconsin In the northwest part of the state, about an hour-and-a-half drive from Duluth “The Telemark Resort cross-country ski trails connect over 100 K of meticulously groomed routes traversing the glacially created roller-coaster terrain of this area,” says Gary Crandall, an American Birkebeiner skier and the founder and organizer of the Chequamegon Fat Tire Festival. In addition to the internationally renowned Nordic racecourses of the World Cup Trails, you can ski the mixed-terrain 51 K Birkie Trail and Birkie Classic Trail, both of which are groomed and maintained year-round by the American Birkebeiner Ski Foundation. Alternately, you can slip out the door directly onto the resort’s own 40 miles of trails, which include a mix of flat, wooded, open, and hilly terrain and are appropriate for classic or skate-skiing.

➤Specials The Cross Country Heaven package includes two nights’ lodging and a winter trail pass, valid from the day of arrival through the day of departure. The resort staff will gladly customize a package for you to include meals or even wine-and-cheese gatherings for larger groups. Traditionally rustic lodge rooms feature cedar paneling and private balconies. Check website for package prices. www.telemarkresort.com Where the Locals Go The Wisconsin Nordic Network provides statewide cross-country skiing information, including the famous Birkie Trail, which contains a variety of terrain, with Olympic-level tracks (http:// xcskiwinn.org, www.travelwisconsin.com). Michigan’s Upper Peninsula has numerous public trails of varying difficulty (www. exploringthenorth.com/trails/ski.html).

Walk on the

Wild Side Feel the need to decelerate even more? Snowshoeing can provide the same access to quiet wilderness experiences as cross-country skiing but at an even slower pace. Try these destinations, some of which offer guided trekking adventures.

Spring Creek Ranch, Jackson Hole, Wyoming Naturalist-led snowshoe hikes depart from the reception area at 10 a.m. every Tuesday and Thursday, weather permitting. $50 includes use of snowshoes and poles. www.springcreekranch.com

Scott Markewitz / Aurora Photos

Solitude Mountain Resort, Park City, Utah The resort’s Nordic Center offers 20 K of forested, groomed terrain for classic and skate-skiing, plus marked snowshoe trails. Rentals available. www.skiutah.com/resorts/solitude_mountain_resort The Sagamore, Bolton Landing, New York At this historic upstate New York hotel on Lake George in the Adirondack Mountains, snowshoe rentals are available at the on-site Nordic Shop for exploring the extensive grounds and snowcovered golf course. In addition, the Lake George Kayak Company, located close to the resort, offers rentals and guided treks into the surrounding landscape, with tours of varying levels of difficulty. www.thesagamore.com Golden Hills Resort, Lead, South Dakota Two miles from the legendary Gold Rush town of Deadwood in the Black Hills, the George C. Mickelson Trail offers more than 100 miles of gradual slopes, with four tunnels and more than 100 converted railroad bridges. $3 day use fee. www.blackhillsportal .com/dbs/goldenhillsresort Gunflint Lodge, Grand Marais, Minnesota About a three-hour drive from Duluth, this rustic lodge has more than 5 miles of snowshoe trails and connects with the Upper Gunflint Trail System, surrounded by the vast Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, with more than 50 miles of separate trails of varying difficulty designated specifically for snowshoers. Walk alone or take advantage of the lodge’s nighttime Full Moon treks. Guided ecology, geology, wildlife, and photography snowshoe excursions are also available. www.gunflint.com

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Norbert Rosing / National Geographic / Getty Images

Old Faithful Geyser, Yellowstone, Wyoming

WEST/SOUTHWEST Devil’s Thumb Ranch, Colorado In Tabernash, about two hours west and northwest of Denver

This environmentally conscious ranch has garnered awards from the Environmental Protection Agency and the International Conservancy, which selected the property in 2007 as one of the top 15 eco-friendly hotels and resorts in the world. With more than 100 K of groomed and tracked trails and 5,000 acres of privately owned and managed wilderness area, Devil’s Thumb is suited to both beginners and advanced skiers. Besides wide meadows and gentle terrain at an altitude of 8,800 feet, trails flow through aspen groves and stands of conifers, with paths of varying difficulty. The Adventure Center stocks classic and skate-skiing equipment, with options for waxless or waxed skis (the staff will even wax them for you based on the day’s weather conditions). Achy quads? The 12,000-square-foot Ranch Creek Spa provides a full menu of massages, body therapies, and treatments.

➤Specials Winter ski packages start at $210 per night for a new lodge room and $325 per night for a one-bedroom cabin, with a $15-per-guest fee for a Nordic trail pass. Lodge rooms offer a mix of fireplaces, balconies, and views. A limited number of cabins are dog-friendly (for an additional $50 per night per dog). Check the website for last-minute packages and specials, often available during slower periods in fall and early winter, in January, and in April and May. www.devilsthumbranch.com 54 Women’s j Adventure

Angel Fire Resort, New Mexico About two and a half hours from Santa Fe and 45 minutes from Taos At Angel Fire Resort, you can enjoy the amazing New Mexico snow on a dozen-plus acres of groomed Nordic track. Debra Ledford, a physical education teacher at Moreno Valley Charter High School in Angel Fire, has been exploring the valley on cross-country skis for 21 years.

“One of the best features is the feeling of seclusion,” she says. “You’re briefly surrounded by the noise and the business of the lift area, but when you disembark at the top you’re surrounded by peacefulness.

The trails are groomed and tracked for classic skiing, but you can also skate-ski, and the gradual loops and occasional uphill climbs make it appropriate for beginners as well as more-experienced skiers. It’s also perfect for snowshoeing.”

➤Specials Beginning at $89 per person per night, the Stay & Nordic package runs from January 2 to February 28, with a two-night minimum stay. The price includes lodging at the slopeside Angel Fire Resort Hotel and a lift ticket for access to the Nordic trails. www.angelfireresort.com Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel and Old Faithful Snow Lodge, Yellowstone, Wyoming A little over two hours from Billings and 90 minutes from Bozeman; you can also drive 50 miles from Cody and take a snowcoach from there to Old Faithful “Where else,” asks Jeff Brown, education director for the Yellowstone Association, “can you ski through a primordial landscape with frosty

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The Osprey at Beaver Creek, Colorado About two hours from Denver and 15 minutes from Vail Steps from the Strawberry Park express high-speed chairlift leading to the trail system at McCoy Park, this newly renovated property in Beaver Creek Village is in the heart of Rocky Mountain ski country.

Beaver Creek Nordic Sports Center offers access to trails within the White River National Forest for backcountry skiing and snowshoeing adventures. “Nordic trail systems are typically located in a valley or on a golf course,” explains Nate Goldberg, Beaver Creek Nordic Sports Center director. “Beaver Creek’s McCoy Park trail system is situated on top of Beaver Creek Mountain, where the majestic views and the diverse terrain are second to none.” McCoy Park is one of the few mountaintop trail systems in the United States and features more than 30 K of groomed trails for cross-country skiers, skateskiers, and snowshoers. Trails range from easy to difficult. You’ll have heart-stopping views of three mountain ranges, plus plenty of opportunities to view the local residents, including porcupine, deer, elk, snowshoe hare, and fox.

12, 2009. Packages begin at $708 per person per night (rates are higher during peak season) and include deluxe accommodations and lift tickets for two to either Vail or Beaver Creek. How long you stay or ski free depends on the number of nights you book. http:// ospreyatbeavercreek.rockresorts.com; http://beavercreek.snow.com Grouse Mountain Lodge, Montana In Whitefish, approximately 20 minutes from the airport in Kalispell Situated in the northwest part of the state, there’s snow available here from mid-November through April. You can ski 15 K of open terrain with groomed tracks by day and enjoy a 5 K trail by the light of the moon and the stars. Before heading to bed, relax with something hot and steamy by the outdoor firepit. There are also extensive backcountry routes through Glacier National Park (about 25 miles from the lodge). In winter a good portion of the park’s 700-mile seasonal hiking system (past lakes and peaks and through sloping valleys) is transformed to cross-country and snowshoe territory.

Trail entrance to Glacier National Park is free during the winter season. Bring your own gear or arrange for rentals and transportation through the Montana Adventure Company, via the resort.

➤Specials Winter Ski & Snowboard packages start at $132 per

bison lumbering past steaming thermal features—or ski to a backcountry geyser and watch it erupt?” In Yellowstone National Park, of course, where you can cruise some of the country’s premier bear, wolf, and bison country alone or in the company of a naturalist or guide from the Institute for Backcountry Skiing. You’ll experience geysers, mud pots, rugged backcountry, and legendary landmarks, including Blacktail Plateau, Lamar Valley, Yellowstone’s Grand Canyon, and the foot of the Gallatin Range. Did we mention the wildlife?

➤Specials Among other things, the Yellowstone on Skis package includes three nights’ lodging at Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, two nights’ lodging at Old Faithful Snow Lodge, four breakfasts and lunches per person, and daily ski trips led by a naturalist. Part of the Lodging & Learning program called Trails through Yellowstone offered by Xanterra Parks & Resorts and Yellowstone Association Institute, the package also offers in-park transportation for field trips and to lodging sites as well as optional evening programs with members of the National Park Service. Available select dates in December, January, and February. $1,099 per person, double occupancy; $1,375 for single occupancy. www.travelyellowstone .com/lodging-and-learning-193.html 56 Women’s j Adventure

person per night and include lodging in an executive room, a full breakfast, and an all-day lift ticket plus transfers to and from the resort from the airport, train station, and downtown Whitefish.

Rates are slightly higher during the holidays, so check the website for specific prices. www.grousemountainlodge.com Where the Locals Go Just outside of Moab, Utah, the La Sal National Forest provides unlimited backcountry skiing and worked trails (many are unmarked routes). A mountain hut system is available for extended excursions (www.discovermoab.com/skiing.htm). A network of 7 miles of crosscountry trails can be easily accessed from Mammoth Lakes, California (www.visitmammoth.com), which also offers winter Full Moon tours.

In Colorado’s high country, Aspen/Snowmass maintains an enormous, free, groomed cross-country trail system (www.aspennordic.com), with more than 65 K in the network. Enjoy 43 K of Nordic and snowshoe trails bordering the shores of Lake Dillon in Frisco, Colorado (www.breckenridgenordic.com), or ski nearby backcountry trails that are part of the Tenth Mountain Hut System (www.huts.org). The Bighorn National Forest in Sheridan, Wyoming, has two trail systems: the Sibley Lake Ski Trails, with 15 miles of groomed track at an elevation of 8,000 feet, and the Cutler Ski Trails, 3 miles of groomed trails that are dog friendly (www.sheridanwyoming.org).

Joe Kusumoto

➤Specials The Ski Free Stay Free package is valid through April

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Come Experience the Alpine Meadows Women’s Ski and Snowboard Camps The Alpine Meadows Women’s Ski and Snowboard Camps are offered three times throughout the season; twice in the form of a three-day ski camp, and once as a three-day ski and snowboard camp. Alpine’s Women’s Camps are among the most popular in the west, and are coached by some of the country’s best women athlete coaches. Technical skill, strength, flexibility, and above all, fun, are top priorities; as well as providing a supportive team atmosphere focused on an unforgettable mountain adventure.

Camps include a morning welcome breakfast, lift tickets, and three full days of skiing or snowboarding with top female instructors. Comprehensive video analysis, one-on-one coaching consultation, tips on choosing and fitting equipment, and après ski fun on the town make for a great outdoor adventure focused on all-around fitness.

The women who coach Alpine’s camps are among the country’s finest professionals. As members of the K2 Women’s Alliance, coaches Leigh Pierini and Deanna Neu offer cutting-edge technical advice; and as one of the country’s top big-mountain competition athletes, coach Lynn Kennen gives camp attendees a guided insider’s look at Alpine’s legendary terrain—deemed some of the country’s best by Powder and Skiing magazine.

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Alpine Meadows operates in the Tahoe National Forest

Unfiltered.

under a special permit from the Forest Service.

Women’s j Adventure 57

Patrik Giardino / Iconica / Getty Images

whole health

58 Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j Adventure

Joint Overload Have questions about arthritis? Here are the answers.

By Kara Thom

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j Adventure 59

whole health

A

higher risk. Some OA studies demonstrate that those who train competitively for most of their lives (i.e., Olympiclevel or lifetime marathoners) are at a higher risk of OA as opposed to those who exercise for fitness or pleasure.”

She cautions, however, that these studies are small and limited to certain sports, which make it impossible to generalize for all people.

Dr. Husni encourages those of you who do train at a high intensity to take measures to prevent injuries, which can compromise surrounding joints by damaging the soft tissue that acts as shock absorbers, putting you at risk for OA no matter how much you train. Also, make strength training a priority in your fitness routine. “Weak muscles allow joints to move more than they should and accelerates the wear-and-tear process,” she says.

When Squeaky Joints Start to Scream Osteoarthritis has many calling cards, most notably joint pain. Another common symptom is something called gelling—when you experience short-term stiffness in a joint after periods of immobility. And that crunching sound you hear in your knee, shoulder, or elbow? That’s a symptom

Ty Milford / Aurora Photos

fter reading a list of risk factors for osteoarthritis (OA), the noninflammatory form of arthritis that results from wear and tear, I began to wonder what my future held. The risk factors included: Getting older. Check.

Being female. Check.

Joint injury or overuse. Check.

Was I supposed to just wait for the diagnosis?

The answer from rheumatologist Elaine Husni, MD, MPh, from the Orthopedic and Rheumatologic Institute of the Cleveland Clinic, was a resounding no. But for all of us active and getting-older females who like to play hard, that no is qualified. “If you have modifiable risk factors, decrease them,” says Dr. Husni.

I can’t change being female or stop myself from getting older, and I don’t have any other risk factors for OA (see sidebar). That leaves me with joint injury and overuse.

Now I was ready for the doctor to tell me I was doomed.

But crossing the overuse line for any particular person is impossible to determine, Dr. Husni says. “In general, physicians do not have a cutoff in terms of number of days per week or number of hours per day that will put you at

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called crepitus that occurs when cartilage wears away and the joints rub against each other.

If you feel you have these symptoms on most days during a month (especially if you are, ahem, in middle age), it’s time to see your physician. The only way to tell

In general, physicians do not have a cutoff in terms of number of days per week or number of hours per day that will put you at higher risk. if osteoarthritis has invaded your joints is through an X-ray. A look at your bones can pinpoint cartilage loss (which can lead to the bones of the joint rubbing against each other) and detect any bony overgrowth, called osteocytes, which can also irritate the surrounding bones.

“If you’re worried about pain and it’s chronic, it’s important to get diagnosed,” says Dr. Husni, especially if it’s keeping you from daily activities. “The condition is progressive and can get worse without treatment.”

Osteoarthritis Risk Factors AGE: With each passing year, your cartilage—the rubbery substance that lubricates the ends of bones—starts wearing down, and the body’s repair process can’t keep up with the deterioration.

FEMALE: It’s an issue of alignment; the female pelvis is usually wider, so the line from hips to knees is at an angle, putting more pressure on those joints. Researchers are also looking into whether menopause has an impact on OA. WEIGHT: More weight puts more stress on joints. The knees are particularly susceptible.

PREVIOUS INJURY: Once a joint has been injured, its integrity is compromised and it becomes more susceptible to OA. MISALIGNED JOINTS: Having joints that don’t quite match up like the puzzle pieces they should be—say, from dislocation or double-jointedness—can cause them to rub the wrong way and contribute to OA. HEREDITY: Certain gene defects affect collagen and the speed of deterioration.

DISEASE: A few rare metabolic diseases are associated with OA.

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whole health Juicing Your Joints There isn’t a cure for OA, nor is there a way to reverse the progression. But you can slow it down with a continuum of treatment options.

Early-stage treatment usually starts with nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory medications, such as aspirin, ibuprofen, or naproxen (all available over the counter). If these aren’t well tolerated or the pain is too severe, the next course of action is a corticosteroid injection directly into the joint.

Physical therapy enters the picture to help patients beef up opposing muscles surrounding a joint. If osteoarthritis is advanced and pain is debilitating, the last resort is surgery, either arthroscopic or joint replacement.

A small 1999 study published in the Annals of Internal Medicine showed that 63 percent of people who visited a rheumatologist for osteoarthritis, rheumatoid arthritis, or fibromyalgia also used some form of complementary medicine.

Chiropractic was among the most sought-after form of complementary treatment. Seventy-three percent of patients in the study who tried chiropractic care found it to be helpful. Another popular treatment was acupuncture, which is available to patients as an adjunctive therapy at the Cleveland Clinic’s Orthopedic and Rheumatologic Institute. Scientific studies suggest that acupuncture is effective for pain relief, although how it works remains a mystery. Still, Dr. Husni sees acupuncture making a

difference in her practice. “Patients tend to take less medications, and it’s very low risk.”

Supplementation is another option. Perhaps the best-known supplement for joint health is glucosamine.

Osteoarthritis patient Mimi Englander, 47, from Littleton, Massachusetts, started taking glucosamine two years ago because, she says, it seemed to work for her dog.

“Since going on the glucosamine, I have only a vague recollection of how the pain in my knee used to be a factor in getting out of bed every day.”

Dr. Husni cautions that it may not work that well for everyone. In fact, a National Institutes of Health study found little benefit with glucosamine compared with a placebo, but the anecdotal evidence is strong. Dr. Husni recommends that patients try it for three months; if they feel a benefit, it’s worth the money.

Another supplement she encourages patients to try is fish oil, especially if they have difficulty tolerating nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs. “It has antiinflammatory properties, and there’s no harm in a threemonth trial.”

For those just feeling the crepitus creeping up, new treatments are being studied, among them cartilage regeneration and cartilage grafts. “There aren’t a lot of OA therapies this minute, but a lot of funding is going into osteoarthritis and it’s an exciting time,” says Dr. Husni.

Rheumatoid Arthritis Symptoms

Osteoarthritis

Rheumatoid Arthritis

Joint pain

x

x

Long-term stiffness/ morning stiffness

Arthritis isn’t one disease but an umbrella term for many.

The most common types are osteoarthritis, which is a degenerative disease caused by too much stress on the joints, and rheumatoid arthritis (RA), an autoimmune disease. RA affects the lining of the joints, or synovium, and because it’s a systemic disease, sometimes other areas of the body too, such as the tear glands, salivary glands, heart, and lungs. RA is considered an inflammatory form of arthritis and has a symmetrical distribution, meaning joints on both sides of the body are affected. OA can strike a joint on just one side and is considered noninflammatory. Like OA, RA is also more common in women, but it typically strikes earlier, when a woman is between 20 and 50 years old. Juvenile arthritis conditions affect approximately 1 in 250 U.S. children under 18.

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x

Gelling (short-term stiffness after inactivity)

x

Tenderness

x

x

Swelling

x

Fever/fatigue

x

Crepitus (crunchiness) High rheumatoid factor found in a blood test

x x

yes, you can

64 Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j Adventure

Keep Up Your Bike Commute in Winter How to brave the wettest, coldest time of year and arrive at work happy

Kyle George / Aurora

By Lucy Burningham

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j Adventure 65

yes, you can

W

ith rising gas prices and global warming, it’s time to park the car and hop on a bicycle. Although riding a bike during the winter may seem daunting, it’s completely doable, especially when you consider that going everywhere from work to the library by bike will pad the wallet, reduce your carbon footprint, and increase your fitness level.

And while it’s easy to come up with a list of reasons not to ride—especially when you’re facing snow, slush, and rain—every potential problem comes with a simple solution.

Besides, you’ll feel better when you arrive by bicycle than you would if you drove a car. Even in the winter. Guaranteed.

Consider it an act of selfishness.

Malika / Photonica / getty images

Get in a good state of mind.

Unfortunately, all the perks don’t guarantee an easy start.

Even experienced commuters struggle to get in the saddle during the shortest days of the year. You’ve got to be mentally prepared.

“Mind-set is the biggest challenge,” says Kristi Wood, who commutes by bike year-round in Anchorage, Alaska. “Eighty percent of bike commuting happens above the shoulders.”

Braving subzero temperatures, limited daylight, and a route that takes her through homeless camps, Kristi says

the benefits of riding her bike still outweigh driving, including saving money, keeping one more car off the road, and not having to buy a gym membership.

“The exercise and fresh air work miracles for my mental well-being,” she says. “When I get to work, I am in a positive mood and ready to start the workday. By the time I get home, I feel 100 percent recovered from the stress of the day and am ready to relax with my family.”

Start by setting a reachable goal—say, riding your bike to work two or three times a week—to take some pressure off yourself. And ride on the days that make sense.

“I want my bike commute to be the fun part of my day, so if something comes up that makes riding seem stressful, I drive,” says Alisha Hilde, who commutes to school in Minneapolis, Minnesota. “Those drive days are rare, but they give me the freedom to view riding as something I get to do.”

Also consider working public transportation into your bike commute. Try riding one way (during the nicer time of the day) and putting your bike on a bus for the other leg.

Don’t give yourself the opportunity to back out in the morning. Commit to riding the night before. Pack your bags for work and set aside your clothing. Do a quick check of the bike for tire pressure and any mechanical problems.

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yes, you can Pick a bike, any bike.

You can commute on any kind of bicycle, from something sleek with skinny tires to an old, trusty cruiser.

“I know a number of people who bought old beaters from craigslist for next to nothing and are quite happy with the bikes for commuting,” says Kristi, who commutes on a mountain bike without suspension.

If you already have a bike, use it. Once you start riding on a regular basis, you can consider fit, weight, and other factors for getting your ideal commuter bike.

And while it’s easy to come up with a list of reasons not to ride . . . every potential problem comes with a simple solution.

Think instead about simple functionality. Sharon prefers to ride in professional-looking clothes made of stretchy materials that have thin seams and won’t wrinkle. She wears capris or leggings that don’t need to be rolled up to avoid the chain and shoes with treads that prevent her feet from slipping off the pedals.

Invest in a stash of cheap ankle straps to wrap around wide pant legs. Get a few sets of warm gloves with grip on the palms and fingers and a beanie or cycling cap that will fit under your helmet.

And remember that what you wear can help keep you safe.

Be visible by wearing bright-colored clothing with reflective strips. And always, always wear a helmet.

Dress for success.

Wearing comfortable, weather-appropriate clothing will drastically affect how much you enjoy your ride.

Some women choose to ride in clothes appropriate for their workplace; others like to change once they get there.

Plan to arrive at your destination a few minutes early to give your body a chance to cool down.

Wet climates call for breathable, waterproof gear: jacket, pants, booties, and a helmet cover during heavy downpours.

For cold, snowy weather, wear layers, starting with long underwear; a waterproof jacket and pants will block wind.

Remember, your body will warm up quickly when riding, so don’t overdress.

Never consider the weather a barrier to riding, says Sharon Huber, who lives in rainy Portland, Oregon, and has been commuting to work by bike for 10 years.

“Once I’m out on a dreary rainy day and moving, I actually enjoy it,” she says. “You appreciate any kind of weather if you’re not always hiding from it.”

Remember, you don’t have to look like a hardcore cyclist.

Depending on the length of your ride, you might opt not to wear a chamois. The same goes for clipless pedals with bike shoes.

68 Women’s j Adventure

J.C. Leacock / Aurora Photos

No matter what you ride, attach two fenders to the frame, which will keep mud and water from splashing your body and legs. Also attach a rack to the front or back for panniers, baskets, or anything you can strap down with a bungee cord.

In below-freezing temperatures, studded tires will prevent slipping on ice and snow. And rainy-weather commuters should consider getting disc brakes, which stop wheels quickly no matter how wet the tires.

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yes, you can Things to keep at work • Deodorant • Extra shoes • Hand and face wipes • Headbands, barrettes, and other hair fixers • Makeup • Healthy snacks, such as trail mix and energy bars

Must-haves • Helmet • Lock—U-locks prevent theft better than cable locks.

• Lights—a white light in front, and a red in back. Don’t leave the house without them, even if you’re planning to ride only during daylight.

• Tire repair kit and pump—Know how to change a flat tire on the bike you ride.

• Water bottle in a cage

Should-haves • Cell phone • Bell—to alert pedestrians and other bikes that you’re coming • Seat cover (plastic shower caps work well)—to keep your seat dry on wet days • Bike computer—to track mileage and speed as part of any fitness plan • Allen wrenches—for making common adjustments to your bike • Tire tube—to use instead of a patch kit to speed the tire changing process • Bungee cord—to strap stuff to your rack

70 Women’s j Adventure

Carry cargo.

As a general rule, riding a bike while wearing a backpack puts unnecessary strain on your back (and will help soak your shirt with sweat).

Instead, try a messenger bag with one padded shoulder strap.

Even better, let your bike carry the weight by attaching panniers or baskets to racks. Panniers come in all shapes and sizes. Many are waterproof; some have pockets for keys, cell phones, and laptops.

Try riding one way (during the nicer time of the day) and putting your bike on a bus for the other leg.

“I use a bomb-proof, watertight bag from Basel year-round to keep things dry,” says Sharon.

Keep empty panniers attached to your bike for unexpected loads, from a stack of files to a baguette.

To lighten your load, consider taking a supply of clothing and shoes to work on a day when you drive.

Head the right way.

If you’re not out for a joyride, plan your route ahead of time.

Check your city or county’s website for information about bike paths and lanes. Use as many as possible. Otherwise, avoid high-traffic roads and dangerous intersections.

If you’re curious about distances, plot your ride on Gmaps Pedometer (www.gmap-pedometer.com).

Leave early, giving yourself time for unforeseen slowdowns, such as construction, traffic jams, or a flat tire.

Be safe.

Take extra precaution in the winter. Leave more space between you and cars. Navigate turns slowly, especially if there’s a possibility of black ice.

“In the winter I wear brighter colors and more reflective gear,” says Sharon. “When it’s dark and rainy, you’re less visible, and people are just not paying as much attention.”

Add extra lights and reflectors to your bike.

Many cities offer bike-commuting classes that teach urban riding skills.

Contact the League of American Bicyclists (www.bikeleague.org) to find courses near you.

Ride as though you’re the smaller, more vulnerable vehicle (which you are). Never assume that a driver will give you the right of way. Try to make eye contact with drivers and people along the route. Kristi Wood smiles and nods as she passes the homeless camps on her commute.

“Potential predators do not prey on people who are clearly aware of their surroundings and have taken a good look at them,” she says.

Most importantly, if a situation doesn’t feel right, ride away.

Finally, when you’re cruising down the road, enjoying the weather, passing gridlocked cars, and feeling strong and energized, remember: You have every right to feel good about yourself. After all, you’re doing something fun that feels good, a selfless self-indulgence.

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72 Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j Adventure

The Fifth Food Group Cheese, wonderful cheese! All foods should be as versatile, varied, and tasty.

By Radha Marcum

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j Adventure 73

full

A

s a lacto-ovo vegetarian, I’ve had a lifelong love affair with cheese. I’ve savored Pecorino in the hill towns of Italy, devoured entire wheels of goat Brie on long bike rides, and scarfed down countless Cheddar and pickle sandwiches. I love cheese. What I like about it most—more than any other food group (yes, I mean food group)—is how many varieties of flavors and textures there are and how well they complement fare in all seasons.

Chèvre with fresh peas or field greens in spring. Smoked Gouda over polenta and roasted vegetables…hmmm, for dinner tonight? I can’t think of a dish that isn’t made better—made complete—with a little cheese.

Cheese is really just another word for carefully ruined milk. No matter from which animal (commonly cow, goat, or sheep), it undergoes a series of manipulations that have been passed down through the generations. Most cheese

starts by adding coagulating agents to the milk, such as lactobacillus cultures and rennet, to clump milk proteins and separate the curds from the whey. (You can even try this at home: just add a little lemon juice to a glass of whole milk and watch what happens.) After the whey is poured off, curds are sometimes cut, cooked, salted, dyed, stirred, shaped, wrapped, and possibly aged in specific climatecontrolled conditions. The whole process can take a few hours or several years.

Like wine, good cheese has a terroir—the taste of the region from which it comes. This is particularly true of farmstead and artisanal cheeses, says Kim Guertin, pastry chef and cheese buyer for Larkspur restaurant in Vail, Colorado. This is because artisanal cheeses are more likely to be produced from the milk of animals raised right there on that particular farm or dairy—a practice that has become

Cheese and Fruit Plate 101 Cheese buyer Kim Guertin suggests choosing a theme, such as cheeses made from goat’s milk, or blue cheeses, and then sticking to these basic rules: • Pick no more than three cheeses.

“Any more than that and the palate gets overwhelmed,” she warns.

• Aim for a variety. For example, if your theme is goat’s milk, choose one fresh, one softripened, and one aged cheese.

Include some that are strongtasting (such as an aged Cheddar) and others that are mild (such as double-cream Brie).

• Pair with fresh or dried fruits that complement the cheese’s predominant flavor. For blue cheese, go with tart apples or tangy apricots. A mild cheese pairs best with peaches, plums, or sweet dried fruits. Avoid berries, which are too delicate for most cheeses.

Corrynn Cochran

• Serve with a palate-neutral flatbread or sliced baguette.

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new HERA sock. A high performance blend of Indego and recycled polyester, featuring a high density cushioned sole and arch with added ventilation and a smooth flat toe seam for additional comfort.The teal detail raises awareness of ovarian cancer and $1 from every purchase helps HERA fund research. Price: $10.

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huge 36”x 48”x 5” landing surface and features lightweight foam, padded backpack straps, metal buckles and Velcro attachment systems that allow multiple pads to be connected. $6 from each crash pad goes to HERA. Price: $139.95 Buy at REI or online at www.madrockclimbing.com

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I a M S t a n D I N G U P Fo r w o M E n / G I R LS A N D t H� Eir Fa M i L i E s to FI n D a C U r E F o r o V a r i a n C a n C E r . A G I R L’ S G O T T O S H O P , W I S E LY !

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Knowledge is power! The most common symptoms are: Bloating, pelvic or abdominal pain, difficulty eating or feeling full fast and urinary symptoms (urgency or frequency). Other symptoms can include: Indigestion, back pain, bowel problems, abnormal bleeding or unusual fatigue.

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full more popular in the United States in recent years. When the animals eat grasses or other plants growing in the region, such as clover or wild onions, it imparts a unique flavor.

“If the goats eat thyme, the cheese will have herbal notes,” says Kim. Some Wisconsin cheeses have a mineral flavor, she says, and it’s almost as if you could taste the northern California coastal mist in Cypress Grove’s Humbolt Fog chèvre, one of my all-time personal favorites.

There’s no doubt that eating cheeses in their native regions imparts a heightened relationship to that flavor, but venturing beyond the standard options—you know, the ones they offer on your burger—has never been easier. Just take a trip to your grocery store’s cheese counter or find out if there is a specialty shop in your area (you’d be surprised). You might even have an artisan cheese maker or two within striking distance. Farmer’s markets are a great place to find them. For starters, check out the cheeses below, then let the tasting begin!

Basic Cheese Types In general, the younger the cheese, the milder the flavor.

Fresh/soft Unripened, not aged, mild flavor e.g., feta, mozzarella, mascarpone, ricotta, and chèvre Excellent addition to pasta, fresh greens, and casseroles Semi-soft High moisture, creamy, and fresh e.g., California Teleme and certain styles of Monterey jack Serve melted in sandwiches or with sautéed vegetables in omelets

Soft Ripened Cheese ripened from the outside-in; becomes softer as it ages e.g., Brie, camembert, and other fine stand-alone cheeses.

Accent with fresh or dried herbs or roasted nuts; serve with crisps or crackers Washed Rind Washed in a ripening solution during the aging process; pungent flavor, “smelly” cheese e.g., Taleggio and most monastery-style cheeses Adds sophistication to cheese plates; pairs well with rustic bread Semi-hard Lower-moisture cheese; strong but flexible texture e.g., cheddar, Gruyère, and Swiss Best choice for fondue or grilled sandwiches Hard Aged longer than other types; lowest moisture e.g., Asiago and Parmigiano-Reggiano Grate into pasta, shave onto salads, or sprinkle on grilled vegetables; also excellent for cheese plates Blue Any cheese that has blue/green veins created by penicillium roqueforti mold; adds mild-to-pungent flavor e.g., Roquefort, Cambozola, and Gorgonzola Fantastic in sauces, paired with tart fruits, or enjoyed solo

For the French, refrigerated cheese is gauche, says Carole Latimer, outdoor chef, founder of Call of the Wild adventure travel for women, and author of Wilderness Cuisine: How to Prepare and Enjoy Fine Food on the Trail and in Camp (Wilderness Press, 1991). So why not pack a little and dine in the wild (or the gondola)?

“Notice how much better it tastes at room temperature,” says Carole, who serves a variety of cheeses to her clients on multiday trips. You don’t have to confine yourself to hard cheeses, she says. A soft goat cheese will easily last several hours—if not a day or two—in a cool part of your pack. Hard cheeses will last even longer—a number of days, she says. For longer outings Carole suggests Gruyère or an aged Gouda, such as old Amsterdam or Prima Donna.

And (this is important!) you don’t want to store your cheese in an airtight plastic bag. “Most cheeses quickly develop a rather disgusting outer film when you carry them in plastic,” she says. Instead, wrap the cheese in layers of cheesecloth, cover in a plain brown paper bag or freezer paper, and secure with a rubber band.

76 Women’s j Adventure

Corrynn Cochran

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full Artisan Picks For tips on selecting, storing, and serving cheese, visit the American Cheese Society’s website at www.cheesesociety.org (under Education, choose Tips for Cheese Consumers), then look for the following award-winning cheeses.

Old Chatham Sheepherding Company (New York), Hudson Valley Camembert A creamy, milder version of European camemberts, made from sheep’s milk www.blacksheepcheese.com

Haystack Mountain Goat Cheese (Colorado), Snowdrop A mildly tangy, soft-ripened goat cheese with a delicate, edible rind www.haystackgoatcheese.com

Fiscalini Cheese (California), San Joaquin Gold An American original made from cow’s milk, with a nutty, buttery flavor www.fiscalinicheese.com Beehive Cheese Co. (Utah), Barely Buzzed A cow’s-milk white Cheddar rubbed with lavender and espresso, giving it a subtle smoky taste www.beehivecheese.com

Corrynn Cochran

Carr Valley Cheese Company (Wisconsin), Snow White Goat Cheddar “Best in Show” winner at the 2008 American Cheese Society annual competition www.carrvalleycheese.com

78 Women’s j Adventure

Mike Truelove / getty images

fresh from the field

80 Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j Adventure

Winter Daze No need to compromise on fit, comfort, or style this season.

Our snow gear picks are made just for you.

By Karina Evertsen, Corrynn Cochran, and Krista Crabtree

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j Adventure 81

fresh from the field The Boards

K2 Fling Tested by our own in-house K2 aficionado, the Fling ranks as one of the most playful and energetic boards on the market. While K2 is typically known for manufacturing stiffer boards, even for the park and pipe the Fling is downright bouncy. But don’t let the bend factor fool you—the Fling holds a nice edge and gets good speed on the groomers. $400. www.k2snowboarding.com

Salomon Sickstick All that our testers had to say about this board was “Wow!” Salomon creates a topof-the-line ride that’s also eco-friendly by replacing layers of fiberglass and resin with bamboo. The “popster” core in this board is more than just marketing hype. “I could feel the energy at high speeds. The board would pop me back out of my turns,” one tester said.

Fierce in powder and for switch riding, the Sickstick leads the pack of freestyle boards. $599. www.salomonsnowboard.com

Ride Promise All of Ride’s women’s snowboards are designed with our bodies in mind. A true all-mountain board, the Promise is a sweet ride. It stood the test of being able to handle the most aggressive riding but performs just as well on the groomers. This board will certainly last the seasons, and the sharp top deck designs aren’t too shabby. $399. www.ridesnowboards.com

K2 Affair Access K2 ups the ante by focusing on the inner lining of this boot, an oft-neglected but critical area in terms of securing the foot and getting the perfect fit. With the Affair Access, K2 added technology to the forefoot of the inner sleeve, so you can tighten it with the twist of a knob. A Velcro strap at the top allows you to secure the calf. But perhaps our favorite thing about this boot is the plush stuffed-animal fur of the lining that makes for extreme comfort without compromising performance. $199. www.k2snowboarding.com

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The Accessories

POC Skull X Helmet This sleek, contemporary helmet brings a cool look to the mountain. POC stands out for its innovative designs and technologically advanced safety details. The Skull X features ventilation in the front that streamlines over your head to keep it cool and a grip panel on the back that keeps your goggles from slipping. $150. www.pocski.com

RED HI-FI Helmet The HI-FI is a great bang for your buck. The velvety liner comes in fun prints (our favorite is the zebra one). The ear pads are compatible with audio if you like to ride powder with tunes, and they are removable when the temperature rises. $100. www.redprotection.com Smith Intrigue Helmet The Intrigue is the helmet with all the bells and whistles. Its lightweight yet durable construction is its first noteworthy feature.

A close second is the venting system: with an easy slide of a lever on top of the helmet, you can go from nice and toasty to cool and breezy. Don’t like ear pads? These simply snap off. Finally, it can be adjusted to fit your head perfectly with a turn of a knob that tightens it to your liking. $120. www.smithoptics.com

POC Iris Comp Goggle If you have battled with finding the perfect goggle, we feel your pain—but help is on the way. The Iris Comp passed our test with flying colors. These goggles fit perfectly with most helmets. The flexible frame fits snugly on the face, with a strap that’s lined with rubber to keep them secure. Included are three different shades of single lenses that you can switch out for excellent visuals no matter what the conditions. $90. www.pocski.com

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fresh from the field What does “women’sspecific” mean, anyway?

Here’s some good news: For a decade ski manufacturers have been improving skis by implementing women’s-specific components to address women’s physiological needs. Translation? You get a ski that works with you, not against you—and a good chance of having a blast on the slopes.

The most widely used women’sspecific component is a forward mounting position. By having a binding that’s 1 to 2 cm ahead of the standard unisex position, women are able to get more forward on their skis and therefore turn the skis more easily.

Women’s hips tend to be wider than men’s, which results in a lower center of gravity and the feeling of being in the backseat. But this feeling can be corrected during the construction phase of the ski. “Recognizing that the normal woman’s pelvis structure impacts her balance differently than men’s, most manufacturers have created molds that integrate a greater ramp angle in their ski/binding systems,” says Jeannie Thoren, women’s category manager for Dynastar. Ramp angle works like a heel lift inside your boot to elevate your heels and help you get more forward on your skis.

The result? Skis turn more easily and women feel more in control.

Finally, women’s-specific skis tend to be softer flexing and lighter weight than unisex skis because women tend to have less muscle mass than men, so lighter and softer skis bend more easily for women.

But don’t expect wet noodles under your feet: specially made cores use high-end materials to shed pounds without losing integrity.

—Krista Crabtree

Rob Kingwill

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RUN

CAMP

HIKE

BIKE

TREK

BAD THINGS HAPPEN I NEED HELP FAST!

SATELLITE MESSENGER I’ll activate my satellite messenger to save the day.

Wait — It’s useless because its signal is too weak to penetrate the trees and/or clouds (and I forgot to pay the service fee).

CELL PHONE I’ll call for help on my cell phone.

Uh oh. My cell phone is useless because I can’t get a signal (and I don’t know where I am even if I could get a signal).

406 MHz PERSONAL LOCATOR BEACON

MY WITS Am I hallucinating from pain? No matter.

Using damp leaves and a pocket knife, I can probably fashion some sort of shuttle craft to fly myself back to safety.

GPS I will look at my GPS to tell me where I am.

Great! Now I know where I am.

If only I could telepathically communicate that information to someone who could save my life!

Like a ray of righteousness, my distress signal will blast through the tree canopy and reach the COSPAS-SARSAT satellite network within moments, triggering a search and rescue operation that will lead rescuers to my precise location.

Under the worst of circumstances, an ACR MicroFix personal locator beacon is your best last chance. Its internal 16 channel parallel GPS determines your position. Then, on the strength of an all-powerful 406 MHz signal, your position and unique identifier code are transmitted through the international COSPAS-SARSAT satellite network to Search and Rescue. It’s a proven system that has saved 22,000 lives worldwide since 1982 — proof positive that when it comes to life and death, sometimes you do have a choice. ACRELECTRONICS.COM ACR Electronics, Inc. is registered by UL to ISO 9001:2000

fresh from the field The Boots

The Scoop on This Season’s Skis This season, skinny is out and fat is in. Skis are now classified by the width of their waist—or the middle of the ski. A ski’s dimension includes three figures: the widths of the tip, waist, and tail. A narrow-waisted ski (75 mm or below) would handle like a sports car—quick, nimble, and able to turn on a dime. A midfat ski (between 75 and 90 mm) is an all-wheeldrive sedan—still quick and easy to turn yet wide enough to float on soft snow or cut through crud. Fat skis are the SUVs of the group; their wide platform of 90+ mm allows them to float in the powder.

Unless you’re lucky enough to ski powder every day, midfats are the best choice for skiing a variety of terrain and snow conditions.

—K.C.

Head Dream 12 The Dream 12 has a ThermaLuxe fleece lining and a supportive heel, which creates a fit similar to that of a running shoe. You wouldn’t take it on your morning run, but by the last run on the slopes the Dream 12 may help increase your stamina, thanks to the double adjustable tongue, which helps eliminate hot spots on your calf. $700. www.head.com

Tecnica Attiva Dragon 100 UltraFit This boot lives up to its lengthy name: a plush fur lining, easy cuff catches, and a calf adapter—all address women’s foot issues and provide a comfortable “ultrafit.” But the Dragon personality comes out on the mountain in the form of a powerful and aggressive allmountain boot. $660. www.tecnicausa.com Nordica Olympia Sport 14 Soft on the inside, the Olympia Sport 14 has a cushy fur lining and new technology called NFS (natural foot stance), which puts your foot in a natural position to reduce stress on your knees. But the outside is all business and provides a high level of performance for intermediate to expert allmountain skiers. $655. www.nordicausa.com 86 Women’s j Adventure

The Planks

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1 Fischer Vision Zeal Don’t judge a ski by its top sheet, but the cool-looking Vision Zeal will get your attention on the chairlift.

Its surfboard style echoes the performance it offers in soft snow: an ample 92 mm waist floats through the fluff. The Zeal comes in three different lengths, each with a smaller or wider waist according to how long it is, customizing the ski to suit your height and ability. $775. www.fischerskis.com

K2 Tough Luv Those of you who were fans of the Phat Luv will be happy to note that it gets even fatter this year, and the 88 mmwaisted Tough Luv muscles into its place. This versatile ski acts like a lion when it needs to—through crud and cut-up snow—but its women’s-specific wood core and dampening technology, which absorbs bumps for a smoother ride, help it purr like a kitten on soft snow and groomers. $1,250. www.k2skis.com 2

3 Salomon Origins Jade If your idea of a good time is passing up the guys on the mountain, the Jade may be your true companion. Strong skiers will appreciate the integrity that comes from a full wood core as well as the forgiving, balanced flex from the forward mounting position. And at 83 mm underfoot, it’s wide enough to conquer off-piste slopes yet narrow enough to carve up the front. $1,050. www.salomonsports.com 4 Völkl Aurora Get your game on! Völkl’s European ski-racing heritage imparts a first-class level of performance on this highoctane ski that will please the most aggressive skier. But you don’t need legs of steel: the women’s-specific features— such as the lightweight core construction, which makes the ski easy to bend, and the forward mounting position, which keeps women from getting in the backseat—make the Aurora a girlfriend with an attitude. Front-side aficionados may appreciate the 73 mm–waisted Fuego, and powder hounds will love the abundant Kiku, at 105 mm underfoot. $1,175. www.volkl.com

Women’s j Adventure 87

fresh from the field The Apparel

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1 Powderhorn Calamity Jacket You’ll be prepared for anything in this do-it-all jacket. The fleece lining will keep you toasty, the faux fur hood will have you ready for a film festival, and the internal goggle pocket will keep your lenses unscathed. When not whipping down the slopes, remove the zip-off powderskirt and insulated hood for a night on the town. $485. www.powderhornworld.com 2 Powderhorn Calico Cord Pant Cowgirl up with these stylish western-inspired cord snowboard pants. They may seem too good to be true, with a soft, waterproof outer shell and an inner lining like a dream. The ultrasoft leather belt loops make for quite a style statement, and internal gaiters keep the snow at bay. $275. www.powderhornworld.com 3 Scott Tundra Glove We’ve done the work for you and found the best of the best. The soft leather Tundra glove is ultracushy and tremendously warm—and you can still move your fingers! Adjustable bands tighten the gloves around your wrists, pull straps make getting them on a cinch, and pockets stash your goodies and come with a swatch to wipe your goggles. $65. www.scottusa.com

88 Women’s j Adventure

4 LeVel Edge Gore 2 in 1 Mitt We have a special place in our hearts for these sweet mitts. Once you slip them on, you’ll never look back. They are a mitten on the outside but feel like a glove on the inside. Waterproof Gore-Tex material keeps your hands dry, and an inner liner divides the mitt down the middle. Slide your hand in one side for maximum warmth; slide your hand in the other side for less insulation and more grip. $90. www.levelusa.net 5 Mountain Hardwear Mynx Jacket Mountain Hardwear may have just outdone itself with this superduper soft fleece. Not only does it get high marks for the cozy factor but the inner lining is made with Windstopper fabric to ward off blustery conditions. $200. www.mountainhardwear.com

6 Chaos Biquette Hat You’ll be sure to turn heads with this flashy winter hat. Braided tassels with cute mini poms gussy up your look. It’s 100% soft acrylic with a faux fur lining. $28. www.chaoshats.com

The Apparel

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7 Westcomb Mirage Jacket The Mirage Jacket wins best in show when it comes to quality, flattering fit, and optimal performance. It’s extremely waterproof yet surprisingly breathable. An adjustable bungee tightens around the waist from within the pockets to keep the snow from creeping in, while a funky zipper adds some sass. $450. www.westcomb.com

Burton Polka Square Sock This midweight sock will keep your feet warm while adding a touch of pizzazz. $20. www.burton.com 8

9 Salomon Thruster Pant Loose Bring on the moguls! The Thruster pant is loosely fitting and a tad stretchy, providing maximum mobility on the slopes. You’ll stay dry with the waterproof outer hardshell, and an adjustable waistband comes in handy after you’ve eaten too much chili. $200. www.salomonsports.com

10 Snow Angel Doeskin Base Layers These midweight base layers are some of the most comfortable on the market. Not only does the Microfleece/spandex combination have a soft feel against the skin but the material is moisture wicking, so you’re guaranteed to stay dry and warm. Zip T-neck $70; legging $56. www.snow-angel.com 11 Tecnica Acacia Boot These trendy boots will keep you strutting your stuff in style all winter long. A shearling fur liner keeps your feet fashionably toasty. Who says you have to sacrifice flair for function? $460. www.tecnicausa.com

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92 Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j Adventure

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WOMENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ADVENTURE (ISSN 1945-1946), Issue 6, November/December 2008, is published six times a year for $17.95 per year by Big Earth Publishing, 1637 Pearl Street, Suite 201, Boulder, CO 80302-5447. Periodicals postage pending at Boulder, CO. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to WOMENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ADVENTURE, PO Box 408, Mount Morris, IL 61054-0408.

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Women’s j Adventure 93

Larry Williams/zefa/Corbis

musings

“Behind every successful man is a strong woman.”

—Source Unknown

94 Women’s j Adventure

{THRIVE IN THE WILD } TM

editorial The Sisterhood of Our Traveling Pants

By Michelle Theall

96 Women’s j Adventure

Corrynn Cochran

K

arina Evertsen has a hole in her pants. This might be more humorous than noteworthy if she weren’t the gear editor for Women’s Adventure and thus able to get her hands on a variety of apparel at any given time. The pants in question are a five-year-old pair of black (rather standard-issue) Patagonia Scythe, but the label is a bit hard to see beneath the silver duct tape Karina has used to splice the shredded vestige together. It’s 2007. I’m her boss. And we’re about to get on the lift at Vail. Rather than fire her, I mock her profusely and beg her to get a new pair of pants worthy of her position as a gear guru. Seriously, what does it say about our magazine when its gear editor wears an old pair of pants held together with tape?

When I ask Karina how the pants got so torn up, she tells me she left snacks in the pocket after a day on the slopes and her Great Dane/Ridgeback (named Hank) ate them (“them” meaning stale trail mix and said pants). So, normal wear and tear (for Karina this means halfpipe, boarding through thick pines, and skimming over rocks on her bum when the snow is scarce) can’t destroy the Patagonia pant, but a dog the size of a Palomino can. The pants haven’t been washed in eons because, of course, the tape would fall off and Karina can’t bear the thought of them disintegrating during the final (oh so final) spin cycle. She loves the pants.

When I decide to write about Karina’s love for the Patagonia pants, I ask her for details to help me flesh out the article. It’s August 2008 in our office in Boulder and 90 degrees outside. I expect Karina will have to go home and hunt through her winter gear to find them. Instead, she wheels around at her desk and grabs the pants off the floor.

“Should I ask?” I say after shielding my eyes from the glare of fluorescent lights off the silver-taped seams.

“I’m planning to send them back to Patagonia to see if they can be repaired before this season starts,” she says. “You know, they don’t make these anymore.”

I do know. I have a pair of Horny Toad shorts that have been with me up Kilimanjaro, across Wrangell–St. Elias in Alaska, and more recently within inches of a polar bear in Manitoba. They’ve served as stuffing for a makeshift pillow, a chamois to clean my sunglasses, and as regular office attire that I see fit for trade shows and meetings with just about anyone. And, nope, they don’t make them anymore. Had I known they were on the endangered list, I’d have bought up one (perhaps even two) of every color in my size.

Alas. At the end of every summer, I pray that they’ll have one more season left in them.

The office at Women’s Adventure is our dream world, where we see and test just about everything before it ever hits the stores.

Our UPS man, Joe, is Santa. Except better. Because Joe arrives daily bearing gifts—toys and clothes for the outdoors. So, I see nothing special about Karina’s pants. And, in return, she thinks my shorts are boring.

So I have to ask, “Come on, Karina. What’s so great about the pants?” She doesn’t think about it for very long before telling me, “It’s stupid; I know. But they were the first big-ticket item I purchased when I decided to take up snowboarding.” Then she adds, “Yes, they are supercomfortable and durable, but that’s not why I’ve continued to nurse them along. They have a story. It’s sentimental. It’s my story.

And Hank’s eating them only makes the story better.”

Outdoor industry manufacturers have spent time and research hoping to find the secret to reaching women and capturing their hearts and loyal shopping dollars. All they really need to do is listen to Karina and the story of her pants because it’s never really been

The pants haven’t been washed in eons because, of course, the tape would fall off and Karina can’t bear the thought of them disintegrating during the final spin cycle. about the stuff. If it works and fits (and it better), we’ll take it to glacier-fed lakes and hot springs and on multipitch climbs. And if we take it on enough journeys, we’ll start to associate that thing with our glorious adventures. Then that single item (a backpack, a chalk bag, my shorts, or even Karina’s holy pants) becomes just like a photograph—etched with memory. River soaked. Campfire baked.

Powder-day exhilarated. So bring on the duct tape and the needle and thread. Because if a pair of pants can make you smile, you’ve found something absolutely priceless.