September 2008 Women's Adventure Magazine by Women's Adventure Magazine

FEATURES

In Pursuit of Waste

Endangered Encounters

Annie Leonard’s crusade has spanned 20 years, 30 countries, and tons of garbage. By Noelle Robbins

As counterintuitive as it may seem, the survival of certain threatened species might just hinge on ecotourism. By Sarah Murray

They say the journey is the destination. Maybe they’re right. By Mary Catherine O’Connor

cover photo: PatitucciPhoto

Women’s j Adventure

Second Comings

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departments 32

10. The Dirt

People, Places, and Things from Our Outdoor World Governor Sarah Palin chats about Alaska, plus autumn runs, BPA-free water bottles, sandboarding, catching up with Amy Van Dyken, and more

28. It’s Personal

74. Full Squash: The Superfood

Going Deep How a journey into the Rwandan jungle helped a nervous empty-nester rediscover herself

82. Fresh from the Field

30. Letters from the Divide

Art and the Physical World Pam Houston explains what writing and the outdoors have to do with each other.

32. Love on the Rocks

How I Became My More Perfect Self I fell in love with Ben and the mountains at the same time. But only one was built to last.

58. Whole Health

More than just seriously good for you, winter squash is the perfect replacement for all the soon-to-be-fading summer and fall vegetables.

Get Ready . . . Get Set . . . It’s your world, runners. Here’s the stuff to inhabit it in. Go! Travel gear cool enough to inspire you to plan a trip

96. Editorial

The Placebo Effect What pills can’t fix

Turbocharge Your Workout Your guide to eating for energy

66. Yes, You Can Survive in the Wild World of Budget Travel Staying savvy and prepared no matter where

you are on the map

6. Behind the Story 8. Message from the Editor 94. Musings Women’s j Adventure

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behind the STORY Founder/Publisher Michelle Theall

When she attended a screening of the Story of Stuff, Alameda, California–based writer Noelle Robbins was blown away. “I laughed, cried, and got mad,” she says. “Annie Leonard’s message lets us in on the dirty little secret about the impact our consumer lifestyles have on the rest of the planet. I wanted to know the woman behind the film, the story behind the Story of Stuff (“In Pursuit of Waste,” page 34). Thanks to Annie, longtime recycling fanatic Noelle now views the contents of her blue bin in a whole new light. Noelle has also written for the San Francisco Chronicle, Newsweek My Turn Online, and Oakland Magazine.

Sarah Murray has always been skeptical about magazine authors’ “unveiling” sacred natural spots. “Far too often with tourism comes Starbucks, the dimming of local cultures, and the compromise of ecosystems,” says the writer of “Endangered Encounters” (page 44). Sarah struggled with writing this article, asking herself over and over, Is it actually possible to do justice to endangered species by pointing a flashlight at them? “Ultimately,” she says, “I came to the decision that to share these endangered eco-adventures may help find a way to make the conservation of species themselves economically advantageous, or their habitats will continue to be destroyed.” Sarah is based in Boulder, Colorado. You can read more of her writing on her website: www.SarahJMurray.com.

Editor in Chief Christian Nardi Creative Director Randi Pallan, RP Graphic Design Studio Editorial Copy Editor: Elizabeth von Radics Proofreader: Susan Gall Gear Editor: Karina Evertsen Assistant Editors: Bryn Fox, Mariko LeBaron Cycling Gear Editor: Susan Hayse Gear Intern: Corrynn Cochran Photo Editor: Quentin Nardi Editorial queries or submissions should be sent to edit@womensadventuremagazine.com. Products for review consideration should be sent to karina@womensadventuremagazine.com. Nonreturnable samples may be sent to 1722 14th Street, Suite 180, Boulder, CO 80302-7423 Photo queries should be sent to photos@womensadventuremagazine.com. Advertising Associate Publisher: Karina Evertsen West Coast/Rockies/Midwest Sales karina@womensadventuremagazine.com/303 263 2722 Northwest Sales: Michelle Theall michelle@womensadventuremagazine.com/720 635 1380 California Sales: Theresa Ellbogen theresa@womensadventuremagazine.com/303 641 5525 Eastern Sales: Susan Sheerin suesheerin63@yahoo.com/303 931 6057 Automotive/Food/Beverage Sales: Melissa Hickey melissa@womensadventuremagazine.com/303 588 4686 Advertising Managers Joanna Laubscher (Northwest): joanna@womensadventuremagazine.com Alex Ballas (Travel/Tourism): alex@womensadventuremagazine.com For general advertising inquiries, please see the posted media kit on our website or e-mail us at publisher@womensadventuremagazine.com. Office Manager: Lynne Boyle lynne@womensadventuremagazine.com Design Manager: Krisan Christensen

After sending her youngest daughter off to elementary school, Lisa Marshall decided it was time to dust off her passport and once again indulge her wanderlust. First stop: the African country of Rwanda, where she spent three weeks tracking primates in the jungle and getting to know survivors of the country’s brutal 1994 genocide. (It’s Personal, page 28). “There’s something about traveling far beyond your comfort zone that helps you remember who you really are,” says Lisa, a journalist from Estes Park, Colorado. Lisa is a regular contributor to Natural Solutions magazine, Delicious Living, and the Rocky Mountain News.

Circulation Circulation Director: Rick Rhinehart If you’d like to carry Women’s Adventure in your store or would like to explore a partnership to help us grow our subscriber base, please e-mail us at rick@womensadventuremagazine.com. Subscribers and Customer Service If you wish to subscribe to the magazine, have a change of address, or have missed an issue, please contact Kable Fulfillment at 800 746 3910 or e-mail us at ddln@kable.com. Web Web Developer: Susan Hayse

The opinions and the advice expressed herein are exclusively those of the authors and are not representative of the publishing company or its members. Copyright © 2008 by Big Earth Publishing. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without written permission is expressly prohibited. Women’s Adventure makes a portion of its mailing list available from time to time to third parties. If you want to request exclusion from our promotional list, please contact us at ddln@kable.com. Outdoor activities are inherently risky, and participation can cause injury or loss of life. Please consult your doctor prior to beginning any workout program or sports activity, and seek out a qualified instructor. Big Earth Publishing will not be held responsible for your decision to thrive in the wild. Have fun!

Women’s j Adventure

Editor’s Letter

Readers’ Stories Meeting on the Mountain

The Real Deal

In high school I fancied myself a passionate activist. I had big plans to feed the hungry and save the dolphins. I wore Birkenstocks and drove around with an ecology symbol on the bumper of my Volkswagen. My adolescent self would hate me for saying this, but it was all quite romantic, which I think more than anything is what drew me to the idea of saving the world. It was during my college years that getting a job, paying back student loans, and not becoming hungry myself started to become a big reality. I didn’t lose my conviction for the issues that are important to me, but I can’t claim to be one of those people on the front lines righting the injustices in the world—one of the people I aspired to be. Annie Leonard, on the other hand, is. Annie has spent two decades in hot pursuit of trash. For the average person who looks at garbage, it’s just stuff that needs to be thrown away. But Annie can’t leave it at that. She’s made a career of answering the question: where does it go? She’s worked hard to uncover the truth about the stuff we buy, use, throw away, and recycle. As you might suspect, she came up with all sorts of disturbing answers. Annie is now out spreading the word and raising awareness about how we really dispose of things. You might ask, “How does this story fit into Women’s Adventure?” Well, in many ways but probably the first and foremost is If I’m not out there doing this stuff myself, the least I can do is help get out the stories to you about the people who are. So go ahead, start reading; In Pursuit of Waste begins on page 34.

It’s two o’clock in the morning and I lie awake in my tent. The guides will be waking us in an hour, and I can’t seem to get out of my head. I always thought of the mountains as a place where I could go to get away and to enjoy all the peace and quiet it has to offer. But this trip is different. It’s Father’s Day, and it’s been only three short months since my dad passed away. In an hour I will start climbing for the summit of Mount Moran in the Tetons. But all I can think about is what a coincidence it is that I find myself here, in this place, on this day. The outdoors has always been a passion for my family. In May 2005 my dad and I took a father/ daughter trip to Idaho. We went on a two-day whitewater-rafting excursion down the Lochsa River. We had the time of our lives. But little did we know that there was a mass in his chest, and it was growing rapidly. I know now that the trip wasn’t a coincidence. Just a month later I saw him again in Jackson Hole. Our family had gathered for my cousin’s wedding, and it was Father’s Day weekend. It was the last time I would see him, the man with the boisterous laugh, as the healthy, happy man whom I love and respect. We head out for the summit at 3 a.m., I with my dad’s Buffalo Bills hat safely stored in my pack. We’re blessed with clear skies and sunshine. It’s six long grueling hours to the summit, but with every step I lean on my dad, energized by the thought of him. He helps me take each step. He helped me climb that mountain. It was atop Mount Moran, 12,605 feet high, with my dad’s ball cap on my head that I began to heal. The outdoors had brought me and my dad together when he was alive, and I realized it brings us together in his death. On that day I know my dad was with me. I know now that the wilderness is a place to truly keep in touch with the man who taught me to be the person I am today. In the solace of the mountains, I will meet my dad again. —Stephanie Smith If sports, travel, or the outdoors have changed your life or inspired you to do something incredible, we want to hear about it. Go to our website to post your story. If we print it, we’ll send you a Women’s Adventure T-shirt.

Women’s Adventure Online ËKeep your eyes peeled for new contests, giveaways, and promotions! Visit our contests page at: www. womensadventuremagazine.com/ community/wacontests.html ËIs your group interested in receiving sample issues of Women’s Adventure? Contact us through the website at: www.womensadventuremagazine.com/ subscribe/freeissues.html

Readers’ Poll Do you take personal safety precautions when you are outdoors? You answered:

61%

Yes, I’ve got some strategies in place, and I’m always aware of the people around me when I’m outdoors.

29%

I’ve thought about it, but I don’t really have any “plans.”

9% Christian Nardi

Women’s j Adventure

I don’t worry about it; the risk of attack is too small to let it interfere with my outdoor activities. Other

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Dirt

People, Places, and Things from Our Outdoor World ≥ ROAR ≥ GOTTA HAVE ≥ ACTION ≥ The green zone ≥ OUt There ≥ Health NEws

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10 Women’s j Adventure

ROAR

Lady Governor

or Sarah Heath Palin, Alaska’s wildly popular first female governor, being in the outdoors is not about rafting the toughest rapid or climbing the steepest pitch. It’s simply a way of life. A runner, hunter, skier, and angler, Palin, who in 2006 also became the youngest Alaska governor at age 42, grew up skiing the Talkeetna Mountains, hunting the Matanuska-Susitna Valley, and salmon-fishing the famed Kenai and Copper rivers. These days Governor Palin still runs and hunts when possible, and during the summer, when the sun barely sets and Alaskans rarely sleep, she dons her Helly Hansens to help husband, Todd, pull in fish for their Bristol Bay commercial fishing operation.

Getty IMages

“

My parents taught me to respect the land and the wildlife. When it comes to hunting, you’re going to hunt what you consume and leave no waste. You learn in Alaska to respect the elements too. I learned that lesson when I first started commercial fishing with Todd. Bristol Bay fishing struck me as such a dangerous vocation, but he just told me, ‘You have to respect the water.’ My experiences outside and growing up in a family that was very passionate about the outdoors do affect my decisions today. I had the opportunity, growing up, to do things like climbing the Chilkoot Trail. I would like to see more families doing these sorts of things. Here in Alaska we don’t have a very healthy population. We’re too high in obesity and cancer and diabetes, and getting outdoors can encourage healthier lifestyles. It’s obvious, too, that the [Alaska] Department of Natural Resources [DNR] is a focus of my administration. I can recognize that Alaska is known for its natural beauty and its resources. It’s a delicate balance to protect our natural environment while we are developing our resources for the growth of the economy. DNR is not going to solely be focused on the resource extraction that maybe some people would like. We have to combine resource extraction with putting money in the parks and the trails—putting money into those things that make Alaska what it is. Our administration has created the Petroleum Integrity System office, and we’ve really ramped up oversight of the development that is going on on the [North] Slope and with the gas line going in. It rankled some in the Republican Party who thought we were trying to shut down business. But I believe our mission is to have appropriate oversight of development so we can prove to people like the federal government that we are going to have responsible and safe development. I have such an appreciation for what Alaska’s great outdoors does have to offer. Everyone should get to experience it this way too while still growing an economy that is good for Alaska.

”

—As told to Melissa DeVaughn

Women’s j Adventure

The Dirt PRO/CON

Paper Vs. Plastic You know to bring your reusable canvas bags to the grocery store, but, hey, sometimes you forget. So how do you answer that fateful question “Paper or plastic?” Paper Pros: When well packed, a paper grocery bag can hold almost four times the amount of stuff as a plastic bag. Paper bags biodegrade easily and can be composted. Cons: We cut down 14 million trees each year to make the paper bags that Americans use. The process of making paper bags creates 70 percent more pollution than the process of making plastic. Though paper can be recycled, the process is long and complicated and results in a significant amount of greenhouse gas emissions. Plastic Pros: Plastic bags can be easily recycled by a simple melting-and-reforming process, and it takes 91 percent less energy to recycle a plastic bag than a paper one. At least 50 percent of plastic manufacturing uses electricity generated by nuclear fission, which some say has less effect on the environment. Cons: More than 100,000 birds and marine animals die each year from plastic bags that are not disposed of properly. It takes 12 million barrels of crude oil to make plastic bags each year, and plastic can sit in landfills for up to 1,000 years. You be the judge.

Tap Water: A Clear Winner

Americans spend more than $15 billion each year on their hydration habits when they could be spending mere pennies per gallon and reducing consumption of crude oil by more than 50 million barrels annually. The solution: tap water. Municipal water supplies are tested multiple times daily, and the United States already spends $43 billion a year to supply citizens with clean water. Why pay twice? Get yourself a filter for taste and a reusable bottle for convenience and hydrate away!

12 Women’s j Adventure

KIDS’ CORNER

Your Very Own Backyard Wildlife Habitat Have you ever stopped to think about what lived in your yard before you took it over? While we don’t necessarily want to invite everything back onto our property, there are small changes we can make to create homes for the little creatures native to our areas. The National Wildlife Federation (NWF) has a program called Certified Wildlife Habitat that offers easy-to-follow guidelines on how to create a more wildlife-friendly backyard, (i.e., providing a water source for birds and shelter for animals in the form of bushes and brush). Not only does this make a fun project for kids but it’s a unique opportunity to teach them powerful lessons about protecting animal habitats. The $15 fee gives you an NWF membership, a subscription to National Wildlife, and your name on the NWF’s registry of certified habitats. For an extra $25, you get a certification sign to stake in your yard—maybe your neighbors will want to keep up with the Joneses, and you’ll really be on to something. Get certified today: www.nwf.org/backyard

BPA-free Water Bottles By now you’ve probably heard that Nalgene has stopped production on its polycarbonate bottles containing BPA (a chemical linked to cancer) due to consumer demand for safer alternatives. So throw out that tattered old bottle you’ve been lugging around since college and pick up one of these cool, reusable, healthy, and environmentally friendly options that have recently hit the shelves. All these stylish bottles are BPA-free. Nalgene Wide-mouth Everyday Bottle With the same cool look as your Nalgene of yesteryear, this durable update is made of a new copolyester plastic that does not contain the BPA once found in traditional Nalgenes. Look for the telltale “Everyday” on the side of the bottle to know you are safe to hydrate! 32 ounce $11.50. www.nalgene-outdoor.com

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GOTTA HAVE Katadyn Micro This handy bottle-and-filter combo allows you to fill directly from the sink or stream. A microfilter eliminates bacteria while the additional carbon filter reduces chemicals for a cleaner taste. 21 ounce $40. www.katadyn.com Sigg Water Bottle with Screw Top Durable and lightweight, this aluminum bottle is lined with material that is guaranteed to be nonleaching, ensuring that no matter what you put in your bottle (or what you had in there before) it will always taste just right. A wide variety of funky designs and cap options (like screw top or squirt top) make this bottle both functional and fun. 20 ounce $20. www. mysigg.com

2:29:36 PM

CMY

The Dirt On the FRONT LINES

In honor of the twenty-third anniversary of National Breast Cancer Awareness Month this October, we hear from three women whose lives have been touched by the disease.

Maria Pinedo: I am a SISTER Of two sisters diagnosed with breast cancer, Maria lost one of them to the disease. Her strategy for staying healthy? Exercise. “I believe that stress plays a key role in getting sick,” says Maria. “Exercise gives me the opportunity to let it all out. My greatest motivation is my family. I love seeing my kids grow up and spending time with my husband.”

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14 Women’s j Adventure

Get Ready to Rock the Vote Tuesday, November 4, is Election Day. Are you prepared? Register Most state deadlines for voter registration are in October, but they are all different, so check out www.rockthevote.com for your state’s deadline. Get Organized Not sure what ID you need on voting day? Want information about absentee ballots or eligibility requirements? Go to www.vote411.org for answers to lots of voting questions. They’ll even draw you a map. Get Informed Learn more about the candidates at www.votesmart.org. This great, nonpartisan Web site comes complete with candidates’ speeches, voting records, and affiliations.

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3 Peaks 3 Weeks Challenge:

Climb for Africa

Experience Africa while giving back to it. In January of each year, a group of 10 to 15 women spend three weeks climbing Mount Kilimanjaro, Mount Meru, and Mount Kenyaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;all while raising money and awareness for environmental, educational, and health development in Africa. The rapid population growth, lack of education, and widespread commonality of HIV in Africa puts a tremendous strain on both the people and the environment. The populationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s health and sustainability are gravely at risk, but the bold women of this expedition are working to do their part to raise money that will be used to educate Africans about the many community-threatening issues with which they are faced. Teaching sustainable agriculture practices and conservation of their natural resources, increasing the availability of primary education, and offering mobile HIV testing in rural areasâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; all are programs that the funds raised by the 3 Peaks 3 Weeks team supports. The climbers spend three weeks exploring the wonders of nature in the region, and, when not summiting the three peaks, they visit the organizations and project sites that the funds they raise support. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I have a massive amount of passion for Africa in general, and there could be no greater way to display that than to stand on the roof of the country with a fabulous team of friends and a check written out to support amazing work across the region,â&#x20AC;? says participant Laura Hartstone. Applications for the January 2010 expedition are due in September 2008, with final selection being made in November 2008. www.3peaks3weeks.org

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j Adventure 15

The Dirt Spotlight

Amy Van Dyken

Now: At age 35, Amy splits her time between homes in Colorado, Arizona, and Washington with husband and NFL punter, Tom Rouen. Though her day job is sports broadcasting, her passion is charity work. She is involved in various asthma-related nonprofits as well as the Make-A-Wish Foundation. She and dog Georgia are the “spokesgirls” for Paws with a Cause, a foundation that trains and places hearing, assistance, and seizure dogs. Amy also sponsors an event that benefits Colorado Youth Outdoors, an organization started by Tom’s brother-in-law, Bob Hewson, that gets high school students outside. Bob approached Amy and Tom to do a “big-money fundraiser.” “Shooting sporting clays is a part of the curriculum of Colorado Youth Outdoors,” says Amy, “so we thought, What better thing to do than that?” The Tom Rouen and Amy Van Dyken Celebrity Shoot Out was created and is so popular after seven years that they have to turn down celebrities who want to participate. Amy was inducted into the U.S. Olympic Hall of Fame in June. “To be picked among all the Olympians who have done so many amazing things is one of the most touching, heartwarming, and surreal feelings ever.” But Amy is most proud of her charity work. “I really feel that I wasn’t given the gift that I was given and helped out by so many people just to let it go. You’ve got to pay it forward.” —Kathie Reid

Matthew Stockman / Allsport

Then: Diagnosed at 18 months with asthma, Amy Van Dyken was encouraged by her doctor to take up swimming when she was six years old. This twist of fate led her to not just swim competitively but to six Olympic gold medals. At the age of 23, at the 1996 Summer Games in Atlanta, Amy became the first U.S. woman to win four gold medals at one Olympics. She graced the Wheaties box, posed for a “got milk?” ad, took three 1998 World Champion medals, and won two more Olympic gold medals in 2000, after which she immediately retired. Although a shoulder injury played a part, Amy had accomplished her swimming goals. “I’d gone to two Olympics. I got six gold medals. I had world records, American records,” she explains. Amy shifted her focus to Ironman triathlons, but a knee injury in 2000 turned her toward sprint triathlons for charity.

From top: Amy Van Dyken displaying her four gold medals at the 1996 summer Games in Atlanta; Amy and husband, Tom Rouen.

Maureen Gardner: I am a DAUGHTER Thirteen years ago Maureen’s mother was diagnosed with breast cancer. It claimed her life in December 2000. The year before her mother died, Maureen, her mother, and her sister participated together in Race for a Cure. Maureen has participated every year since. “It is a very moving experience in many ways each time I do the race,” she says. “I feel that participating is healing for me and maybe contributes to the healing of others.”

16 Women’s j Adventure

THE GREEN ZONE

The Scoop on Recycling It’s cool to be green. Celebrities drive hybrid cars, global warming is a top issue for voters this fall, and yet, despite seemingly increased awareness, statistics show that recycling ideals don’t always translate to practice. According to the Container Recycling Institute (CRI), aluminum can recycling has actually decreased in America since the 1990s. Americans currently throw away 1,500 cans per second, which becomes 21 billion cans in landfills each year. CRI suggests that our on-the-go lifestyle combined with the lack of public recycling bins leaves people with no other option than to throw drink cans in the garbage. Glass recycling is also down from the 1990s. In 1996, 30 percent of glass bottles made their way back into the recycling channel. But by 2006, according to CRI, it dropped to 20 percent. On the other hand, the American Forest and Paper Association reports that paper recycling has slowly increased in the same time period. In 1996 Americans recycled 45 percent of our paper; in 2007 the number was up to 56 percent. More impressive are the numbers in the scrap tire sector. Historically, scrap tires were separated from other trash but were not recycled. By 1990 one billion tires lay in tire scrap yards. They served no other purpose than taking up space and collecting stagnant water, which is ideal for mosquito breeding. Then commercial uses started cropping up for old tires, and manufacturers began recycling them for asphalt, athletic field surfaces, and other molded-

rubber applications. A small percentage was also incorporated in new tire production. This new demand for tires combined with their accessibility in waste yards makes this ending a happy one. Where’s the good news in all of this? First, tire stockpiles are diminishing at an impressive rate. And if we can take the lesson of separation (that is, don’t throw away your cans, bottles, and paper— ever!), this success can translate to other materials. Have you made big changes this year to lessen your impact on the planet? If so, we want to hear about it. Go to www.womensadventuremagazine.com/enviro.html to give us the details.

OSPREY

Women’s j Adventure 17

The Dirt OUT THERE

Run For The Hills

Haystack Mountain Trail Wilmington, Vermont From late September to early October, you can see peaks in every direction decked out in autumn colors. A relatively gradual uphill climb, this 4.8-mile singletrack trail passes through bogs, fir stands, and an endless spectrum of seasonal foliage, climaxing at an elevation of 3,445 feet, with a view of Haystack Pond below. The trail is marked with blue plastic diamonds and is dog-friendly. Total elevation gain: 1,233 feet Getting there: Drive west from Wilmington on Vermont 9, and turn right on Haystack Road. Fall Creek National Recreational Trail Eugene, Oregon In early to mid-October, you’re able to follow a stream for up to 14 miles through the Willamette National Forest, where you can run through maple, dogwood, hemlock, Douglas fir, and cedar groves. There are sections of whitewater as well as deep pools perfect for a quick dip if you catch it on a warm day. Elevation rolls and ranges from 960 to 1,385 feet, depending on how many of the 14 miles you run. Total elevation gain: 425 feet Getting there: Take Highway 58 from Eugene to Road 18; go 11 miles to the Dolly Varden Campground.

Jen Judge / Aurora Photos

Fall can be the very best season for trail running. The air is cool, the trails are empty, and the trees can be a million different colors all at once—all factors that can contribute to long, peaceful runs with photo ops galore. So grab your trail-running shoes and head out to one of these runner-friendly trails that are sure to deliver scenery, solitude, and good ol’ sweat time.

Finger Lakes Trail Ithaca, New York So popular it has a whole running group named after it, the Finger Lakes Trail yields endless possibilities. With 562 miles to choose from on the main trail (850 including adjacent connections), the route is replete with the gorges that this area is known for and can take a runner on a challenging jaunt in any direction. The trail is clearly marked with large yellow signs with the logo FLT. Local runners suggest parking and running in one direction a quarter of the total distance you want to cover, then going back to the car to refuel and taking off again in the opposite

Kari Vier: I am a SURVIVOR After her mother was diagnosed with stage 2 breast cancer in 2006, Kari herself was diagnosed with stage 1, just nine months later. A runner and cyclist prior to her diagnosis, Kari is taking back her athleticism in October with her first post-cancer 5k. “An active woman means one who is out, setting and accomplishing goals. I am determined to stay in front of cancer when I race. Leaving it in the dust.” Ruth Gordon 18 Women’s j Adventure

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direction. The Finger Lakes Trail is best run through mid-November, before hunting season monopolizes some of the trail and snow begins to fall. Total elevation gain: dependent Getting there: The trail is accessible from all over Ithaca. Dale Ball Trail System Santa Fe, New Mexico A master-planned trail system of hardpacked dirt, the Dale Ball yields 22 miles of mild-gradient singletrack. With a series of intertwining trails (when looped with intersecting trails, you get 33 miles total), you can design your own route of almost any distance without having to double back and retrace your steps. At an elevation of more than 7,000 feet, these trails can be steep at times, although they’re mostly gradual ups and downs—what you would expect in the foothills. With fairly nontechnical terrain and well-marked trails (every sign has a GPS-generated picture of the trail!), this system is ideal for anyone wanting to get their running shoes dirty, novice and veteran alike. Late September is an awesome time to run the Dale Ball trails while the temperatures are just starting to dip and the aspens are turning brilliant shades of gold. Total elevation gain: approximately 1,000 feet from the lowest point to the highest Getting there: From downtown Santa Fe, take Hyde Park Road toward the ski basin. Look for signs for the trail and parking. Virginia Creeper Trail Abington, Virginia From Abingdon to the North Carolina border, the Virginia Creeper Trail traverses 33 miles through the wilds of Virginia. This former railroad line no longer has tracks, but it does have many miles of wide, flat, hard-packed dirt that’s excellent for a long run of rolling grades without any technical spots to slow you down. With access points throughout the trail (at miles 0, 8.5, 15.5, and 25), you can run a different segment each time you go. Because of its popularity with mountain bikers, there are also a number of shuttles that run to a variety of access points during busy months if you want to try a point-topoint adventure. Due to the trail’s popularity, locals recommend running on weekdays for maximum peace and quiet. Total elevation gain: approximately 1,500 feet from start to finish Getting there: Head south on Highway 11 through Abington, turn right on Pecan Street, and follow the signs to the trailhead.

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The Dirt Health News

Flu Shot or Not? As fall approaches, our thoughts turn to colorful leaves, apple cider, shortening days, back to school, and, unfortunately, getting sick. The fear of becoming ill will send many of us into a full-court press to fight it. Frequent hand washing, reducing stress, getting enough sleep, and regular doses of daily vitamins and antioxidants are great ways to stay healthy. But what about the flu shot? There’s a lot of controversy surrounding it. Here are some answers to commonly asked questions. What is the flu? Influenza is characterized by fever (100 to 104 degrees), cough, headache, drowsiness, muscle aches, joint pain, and loss of appetite. Flu kills about 20,000 people a year in the United States (more fatalities than AIDS these days). Several subgroups of the population are more prone to flu or flu complications: • Adults over 50 • Children six months to five years • People with compromised immune systems and chronic medical conditions, such as asthma, diabetes, and heart disease What is the flu shot? Every year a group of scientists study the flu strains from the previous year and determine the three strains that are most

Declare Your Own Mountain Day Every year at Mount Holyoke College, the students are treated to one free day to play outside. Mountain Day is signified by five minutes of continuously ringing chapel bells at 7:00 on an especially beautiful fall morning. No one knows on what day the school holiday will be declared. In fact, since 1838 it’s that anticipation that makes the tradition so beloved at this women’s college in South Hadley, Massachusetts. Declare your own Mountain Day! If you want to get an e-mail from Mount Holyoke College, notifying you of the official Mountain Day, send an e-mail to alumnaeassociation@mtholyoke.edu.

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likely to circulate in the coming year. Flu season can start as early as October and last into May, so the best time to get the shot is in October or November. The flu vaccine is grown in hen’s eggs, so avoid the shot if you’re allergic or if you suffer from Guillian-Barre syndrome, an immune system disorder. What is the controversy? Many people believe that although the shot may not make them sick with the flu, it is nevertheless hard on the body. “I have noticed that for some individuals the flu shot itself causes a certain stress, and for a susceptible person, that stress can make them ill,” says Amy Rothenberg, a licensed naturopathic physician in Amherst, Massachusetts. “It can give them symptoms of the flu or can exacerbate other underlying illnesses.” Many other health professionals and parents are concerned about the preservatives and other contents of the vaccine, which includes thimerosal, a mercury derivative (preservative); ethylene glycol (antifreeze); and formaldehyde (to kill the virus). What are the options? The good news is that flu shots are now available without thimerosal. If you get a flu shot, be sure to ask for one that does not contain the preservative. There is also now a flu mist, which contains a weakened flu virus (the Centers for Disease Control claims it does not cause the flu). The mist is thimerosal-free but recommended only for healthy individuals between the ages of two and 49 who are not pregnant. For more information go to www.cdc.gov/ FLU/protect/keyfacts.htm.

The Dirt is reported and edited by Bryn Fox and Mariko LeBaron.

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nlike most riders, 27-year-old Rachel Steinmetz tried sandboarding before snowboarding. Trekking along the Oregon coast, Rachel quickly caught on to the excitement and won the women’s championship at the 2007 Xwest Huck Fest in Florence, Oregon. “Being out there in the ocean air, hiking around the dunes with my board, and finding fun, new lines and building jumps was what summer soon became all about for me,” she says. Now a resident of Breckenridge, Colorado, Rachel offers these tips for riding the sand. Learning the Skills Although experience on a skateboard or snowboard will give you a leg up in sandboarding, you don’t have to be an experienced rider to learn. Sandboarding is similar to snowboarding in how you plant both feet on a board to turn and jump. “Sandboarding is more laid back than snowboarding because there are no lifts to carry you to the top,” says Rachel. Turning Because you steer with your shoulders, understanding the proper way to turn and position them is important. First you need to learn the difference between a toe-side turn and a heelside turn. A toe-side turn is when you rotate your shoulders in the direction of your toes. To do this, point your front arm in the direction of your toes. You will feel your upper body and your board move in that direction, turning back uphill. In a heel-side turn, rotate your shoulders in the direction of your heels. To do a heel-side turn, “Sit back and lean into the turn,” says Rachel. “It’s a little harder to learn, though, because you can’t see behind you.” Keeping your arms tucked into your body is important as is using your upper body and torso to control the direction. “The biggest mistake you can make is to use your feet or knees [instead of your torso] to turn because you’re probably going to fall,” she says. Jumping Once you’ve got the hang of turning, you can learn how to jump. Most people build their own jumps by shoveling and packing the sand, but you can also use a skateboard ramp and cover it with sand. According to Rachel, the most important thing is to make sure your landing is solid and level.

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The Dirt ≥ Gear Guide Even though pieces of cardboard, car hoods, snow discs, and surfboards have been used to ride the sand, specially designed sandboards do a better job at carving the dunes. There are two main styles of sandboards: ≥ A full-sized board is the same size as a snowboard and is equipped with bindings and boots. It’s especially good for jumps and big spins. ≥ A terrain board is 4 to 5 inches shorter and has Velcro straps for your heels and toes. This is the best board for beginners. Rachel uses a Venomous terrain board. “I prefer to wear socks or go barefoot because I get a better feel for the board.” Of course, you do get sand between your toes, but, Rachel says, “You kind of get used to it. It’s more of a hassle to hike with shoes in the sand.” ≥ Sandboards should glide over the sand and have a smooth base for board wax to be applied before each run. ≥ Beginners should try several styles of sandboards to find one that works best. ≥ Always wear a helmet for protection. ≥ Clothing should be comfortable.

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The Dirt ≥ Firsthand I’d never heard of sandboarding and had never been on a board, but watching my friend inspired me to try. I was nervous about hurting myself, with my bad ankles and poor sense of balance. The fear of falling overwhelmed me, but watching the kids next to me fall helped as I strapped on the board. My friend gave me some pointers and explained that my stance from playing volleyball was similar to that of sandboarding. “Just remember to keep your feet flat for control,” she said. The first time I sailed down the dune, I wanted to do it again. It was a very different experience than anything I had ever tried. Although there were a lot of falls, with each ride I learned to lean, shift my weight, and control the board. It was surprisingly easy and a lot of fun. I went back the following weekend, and now I go as often as I can. I love that it’s a sport that can be done as an individual or in a group. And in any run my dog is right there with me, chasing me down the sand.

—Jessica Hall, on learning to sandboard

As a 22-year-old Oregon native who lives near Eugene, Jessica took her first ride down a sand dune in the summer of 2007. Now she’s addicted.

When setting up for a jump, control your speed by carving back and forth. Carving is done through a series of toe- and heel-side turns to create an S shape on the dune. “Carving comes after you have mastered the transitions of turning in both directions,” says Rachel. “Speed depends on your comfort level and how big the jump is.” As you approach a jump, bend your knees and keep your center of gravity over the board. Lean back a little on both takeoff and landing and keep your arms tucked to your sides. As you jump, pop the board up like you are jumping on a trampoline. Rachel says a trampoline is good for learning jumps because it teaches you how to keep your legs in the air and spot your landing. Falling Falling on a sandboard is inevitable. Fortunately, you have a relatively cushy landing. It is important that you don’t get scared and tense up because that can result in injury. Learning how to fall properly can help you avoid injury if and when you do take a tumble. “On my first time, I didn’t really know what to expect, and I was really scared of falling,” says Rachel. “Now I pretend I’m a rag doll and fall loosely.” Landing on your butt is best. Becoming Fit for Boarding Having a good center of gravity, a strong back, and muscular thighs are important to being a good sandboarder. “You’ll definitely need upper-body strength to steer the direction of the board, but you’ll build muscles as you hike,” says Rachel. Doing squats in your spare time can help you get in shape. Aerobic workouts will also prepare you. Rachel prefers running because it’s a great all-around exercise that keeps your stamina up. Choosing a Dune Look for a dune that is smooth and doesn’t have much grass. It should have natural curves and enough downhill slope. Rachel says beginner dunes are like small rolling hills, and midsized dunes are around 200 feet. Some destinations like Great Sand Dunes National Park (www.nps. gov/grsa) in southwest Colorado beckon sandboarders with dunes as tall as 700 feet. Also check out Lake Michigan’s favorite—Silver Lake Dunes near Mears—which offers fast, clean sand. Along the East Coast, check out Jockey’s Ridge State Park in North Carolina (www.jockeysridgestatepark. com). Sand quality is also important in choosing a dune. If it’s large and rocky, it will diminish your experience. “The best sand to board on is really fine and clean, kind of like powder,” says Rachel. Reaching the Next Level With practice you’ll be ready to tackle amateur or professional competitions in which you can show your skills. Riders are judged on style and technical abilities in categories that include speed and big air. As a comprehensive source for sandboarding information, www.sandboard.com offers a list of competitions. Also be sure to check out Sand Master Park (www.sandmasterpark.com), the world’s first sandboarding park, located in Florence, Oregon.

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Going Deep How a journey into the Rwandan jungle helped a nervous empty-nester rediscover herself By Lisa Marshall

relationships, and sport, my nest was now empty—at least during school hours. I had no excuse now but to forge ahead with my career. But was I good enough? I could run that other

From deep within my brain—that place to where the adventurous, free spirit of my pre-mom days had mostly retreated— an idea emerged.

t’s 1 p.m. on a Saturday, just about the time I’m typically sliding open the minivan door to shuttle a carload of giggling elementary students home from basketball practice. But instead I am 9,000 miles from home, kneeling in the bamboo forest on the flanks of Rwanda’s rugged Sabyinyo volcano, a 600-pound mountain gorilla seated peacefully in the grass before me. He’s close enough that I can hear his lips smacking as he tears through a tender bamboo shoot with his massive black hands and eerily human-looking mouth. I can smell his musky scent. And as I look into his coal black eyes, boring into mine, I am overcome with a strange sense of kinship.

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Suddenly, he lunges to his feet, branches cracking beneath his weight as he barrels toward our small band of startled voyeurs. But I cannot bring myself to move. Instead I stay put as he brushes within inches of me, struck by a newfound bravery that has surfaced more than once on this three-week solo journey. I’m not even afraid right now, I think to myself, surprised. Just six months earlier, life terrified me. It was my youngest child’s first day of kindergarten when I realized just how scared I was. My eyes welled and my stomach churned with a sense of purposelessness as the big yellow bus pulled away from our stop. After a decade of putting mommyhood before job,

marathon now. But was I fast enough? And now that our kids were older, my husband and I might actually have time to talk to each other. But would we have anything to say? From deep within my brain—that place to where the adventurous, free spirit of my pre-mom days had mostly retreated—an idea emerged. I wanted desperately to get her back or at least see if she still existed, and doing so would require something extraordinary. It was settled before I pulled into my driveway. I’d go back to Africa. I’d been before, in the summer of 1994, staying in hostels and swilling Tusker beer as I hitched through Kenya, Zimbabwe, and Tanzania with two girlfriends. Meanwhile, in neighboring Rwanda, a much darker scene was unfolding: ethnic Tutsis were being hacked with machetes by Hutu militias. Before the 100-day genocide was over, 1 million would be killed in a land about the size of Vermont. How will they ever recover? I wondered as I watched the news reports from a beachside guesthouse in Zanzibar, Tanzania.

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Fourteen years later, with my youngest of four firmly entrenched in kindergarten, I returned as a journalist to discover that Rwanda is recovering remarkably well. With a respected president, a growing economy, and one of the safest capital cities in Africa (Kigali), it has emerged both as a beacon of reconciliation (with Hutus and Tutsis trying to coexist peacefully) and as an unlikely tourist draw, thanks to its verdant hills, lush jungles, and rare primates. As a woman feeding her wanderlust for the first time in years, I devoured every adventure I could find. “You’re alone?” asked my polite but puzzled Rwandan guide, before forging, machete in hand, into an unpenetrated wall of dangling vines and shrub in Nyungwe National Park rain forest. The two young British newlyweds were equally puzzled. “You have little kids? What does your husband think?” they asked, slightly annoying me. But three hours later, as we crawled along the muddy jungle floor, pants torn, CamelBaks near empty, in hot pursuit of a tribe of wild colobus monkeys—or later, as we sat, eyes closed, soaking in the cacophony of 400 of them playing in the canopy above our heads—none of that mattered. I was just a fellow adventurer, gutsy enough to be there with them. Don’t lose this moment, I noted to self. Back at the trailhead at dusk, I missed my bus and had to hitch a ride in a speedy white Sedan with four Rwandan tea factory

workers. In the little English they knew, they too expressed their puzzlement at this muddy, bedraggled mom hitching a ride out of the jungle. But my somewhat rusty knack for adult conversation kicked in, and five hours later—when they delivered me to my hotel room in Kigali, after treating me to a cold Tusker at a pub along the way— my Kinyarwandan vocabulary had expanded 10-fold, and we all felt like family. Then, on my last day in Rwanda, came the trek to see the mountain gorillas. With only 700 left, roughly half of them there, I didn’t hesitate to shell out 500 bucks to slog through the fog-shrouded bamboo forest in Volcanoes National Park to spend an hour with these sublime beasts, whom our guide sweetly referred to as “our cousins.” Travel weary and slightly feverish, I teared up as I sat in the grass, watching a mother gorilla suckle her baby. It was time for me to go home. I admit that homecoming was a bit of a buzz-kill. I was eager to see my family, of course, but the drudgery of chores and deadlines left me empty, and those looming uncertainties about my future still nagged. Even now, as I bend to pick up a pile of scattered Barbies in the hallway or spread peanut butter across a slice of bread for yet another school lunch, I sometimes catch myself frozen, eyes glazed, engulfed in a flashback of that carefree, social me forging fearlessly through the African jungle. The difference now: I know she’s still real. I’m not afraid anymore.

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Art and the Physical World

Ron Koeberer / Aurora Photos

Pam Houston explains what writing and the outdoors have to do with each other.

early two decades ago, when I started publishing my short stories about guiding Dall sheep hunts in Alaska and flipping in Wolf Creek Rapids during the hundred-year flood on the Selway, I was often asked, “How in the world do you balance all that time spent in the outdoors against your writing life?” The assumption back in those days was that all writers chain-smoked and lived in New York City and their idea of going outside meant the distance between the cab and the restaurant door. The flipside of that assumption was that given the

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fact that I was a horsewoman and a licensed whitewater river and hunting guide, that I had backpacked on several continents and had ridden my bicycle from Newfoundland to Vancouver, I most likely couldn’t understand the first thing about the making of serious art. My early answers to that question bought into the stereotypes that gave birth to it. It was just two sides of my personality, I said, the yin and the yang of me. All that time strengthening and relying on my body in the wilderness made it possible to come home and sit in a chair for

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long hours and do the kind of living in my head that writing requires. And after a week in my head, nothing felt better than a plunge in the cold clear ocean or the view from a 13,000-foot peak. After a while I began to understand that like any yin and yang, the two things had way more to do with each other than was at first apparent. On the simplest level, the things I was experiencing in the outdoors more often than not became the stuff of my stories: the boulders, the rapids, the mule deer, the bears. So often everything happens very fast in the wilderness; when I revisited those places with language, I could slow down enough to get a much better sense of where I had been. In the beginning writing was less like writing and more like puking. I didn’t know why I did it, I couldn’t control it, but I felt a whole lot better after I was done. Later I came to understand that I write not only to bring to light whatever ugly things still live inside me but also to honor the impossible beauty of the physical world. Now I see that the better I become at describing the things that move me on the outside—a moonrise over Provincetown harbor or the sight of my paso fino pacing through 3 feet of freshly fallen snow—the more likely I am to get at what is on the inside: my deep love of the world, my terror at having (one day) to leave it, my fear that I have not been good enough to earn my place here, the joy that breaks through all of that when the sun comes up outside my window over a meadow full of dew. Lately, I have begun to understand that wild landscapes often suggest a structure for my work. What better way to learn about how to manage time in a novel than by admiring a rock cut that represents 10 million years? What better way to think about the layering necessary in a short story than to study a pinecone or a daisy or a sheet of translucent mica schist? I was a double major—geology and creative writing—and I can see now that that combination was no accident. Sun breaking through fog could teach me about the story under the story. A hummingbird could teach me how to move a narrative forward even as it seemed to stand still. Watching a tribe of wild dogs for a day in the Botswana bush taught me everything I needed to know about fortitude and community. Witnessing a sky burial on a mountaintop in Tibet made me feel two things every writer needs to feel if she is to take herself seriously: the ever-present end of life tapping on her shoulder and the possibility that in the aftermath she might somehow be taken into the sky.

These days my outdoor life and my writing life are so bound up I sometimes can’t tell the difference between walking and writing, between running a rapid and relating a passage of dialogue, between skiing a chute and sticking the landing of a short story. It generates the same kind of adrenaline inside me, and it gives way to the same kind of satisfaction when I am done. Maybe what I am trying to say is that for me writing in response to a powerful experience in the natural world is as logical as breathing and eating and then some. It is a way to love the same river twice. Nothing you or I ever write about the first snow on San Luis Peak or the place on the northern-

The things I was experiencing in the outdoors more often than not became the stuff of my stories. most tip of the north island of New Zealand where the Indian Ocean meets the Pacific will ever approach the magnificence of San Luis Peak or the magnitude of the waves that crash where the oceans collide, but we might write something that will be wonderful in a completely different way. So, next time you go backpacking, take a little book to write in; let your mind go quiet and take in what you see around you. Use all your senses. Be inventive with language and specific with detail. Don’t be afraid to sound like yourself. “A writer should strive to be a person on whom nothing is lost,” Henry James said, and he had probably never even been trekking. You might be surprised to learn how deep and broad your experience was out there in the wilderness when you take time to sit down and find the words for it. You might be even more surprised by what trying to describe the wilderness might teach you about yourself.

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How I Became My More Perfect Self I fell in love with Ben and the mountains at the same time. But only one was built to last. By Elisabeth Kwak-Hefferant

t’s been almost three years since I’ve seen him, three years since our bitter, soap-opera breakup and the total silence that followed, six months since he shocked me with an e-mail saying he wanted to reconnect. Anyone else would have met an ex-boyfriend like that for coffee, maybe dinner—would have gingerly dipped a toe into such a potentially messy situation. Me, I’m going for an emotional cannonball. I’m about to spend three days alone with him amid the twisting rock sculptures of Canyonlands. But Ben and the wilderness are one and the same. What else could we possibly do? The red backpack in my trunk? Ben helped me pick it out. He bought me my tent and my titanium cookset too, but his fingerprints are on more than just

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my gear. They’re on the hiker’s curve of my quads and the hundreds of miles that have passed under my boots in the time we’ve been strangers. Maybe even on the desire that propels me to keep climbing higher, up another mountain and then another. He walks in the door, a few pounds heavier and with longer hair, but still sporting that same dirty visor. We hug awkwardly. He doesn’t seem nervous, just smiles and says, “You look just like I remember.” The mountains were just a pretty idea to me when we first met. Fresh out of college in Philadelphia, I’d taken a summer job at Rocky Mountain National Park to try something new. Ben was the tall trail crew leader who caught my eye almost immediately—a guy who could pound 30

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trail miles into his workday with a chainsaw on his back without thinking twice. We went hiking one June day to Timber Lake, an 11,000-foot tarn set in the shadow of Mount Ida, me with a cotton sweatshirt and a bookbag with no suspension, him loping easily ahead on the steeply pitched trail. I almost passed out that day, trying to keep up, but, heart damn near drumming itself out of my chest, I followed him. Something was changing; maybe it was the altitude or the shocking beauty of the peaks or the way my stomach quivered when he turned to talk to me. By the time we made it to the icy lake, I felt I could follow him anywhere. That summer was a hazy dream. We wrapped ourselves around each other up on the Continental Divide on nights so moon-

too. Ben had seemed flawless that first summer, but as the months went by, the cracks in our relationship started to show. We argued. I cried. Once, after a piercing fight in the shadow of a sandstone arch, I truly thought he might drive off and leave me in Utah. A year later it was over. Not quickly and not as neatly as those three words imply. I went back to Chicago and tried not to think about the gaping hole where he used to be. Without him that beautiful new world—the one where I was strong, confident, and tied to the wilderness—crumpled. But it didn’t disappear. Something inside me began to inflate again, pushed me to ride my bike for hours and cross-country ski the rolling hills of Wisconsin. I turned down a prestigious internship in Washington, D.C.,

Ben kissed me under skies ablaze with the Perseid meteor shower, and I could feel my life reforming. beam-bright I didn’t need my borrowed headlamp. We spied moose and marmots in the Indian Peaks Wilderness on my first backpacking trip (the pack I shouldered was his). Ben kissed me under skies ablaze with the Perseid meteor shower, and I could feel my life reforming. It wasn’t just dizzy love. With every mile we traveled, every time he showed me how to prime a camp stove or read the line of a river rapid, I glimpsed a more perfect version of myself. Ben’s world was active and elemental and tied to the land in a way I’d never known before, but in it I felt amazingly at home. That summer ended on the calendar, but in my heart it was still July. Back in Chicago I missed Ben and the mountains with equal intensity. My old pursuits seemed dull in comparison with the dazzling life I’d just been living. I moved back to Colorado five months later. It was glorious: full-moon skiing together on the Grand Mesa, climbing thirteeners in the Flat Tops, sleeping under the stars in desert canyons. But, slowly, it became terrible

for a spring in the Smokies, hiking every spare minute. This time I traveled the trails alone. Now that Ben and I are descending a bone-jarring slope to the Green River, it’s almost as if the years have dissolved—but now I’m the one setting the lung-burning pace. The backpack he helped me pick out is stuffed with my own gear now (a threeseason sleeping bag, a lightweight down jacket that’s nicer than his), gear that has been with me on countless nights when he wasn’t. Ben still knows his stuff, but now he doesn’t have to teach me. We set up camp on a high rock bench overlooking the water, then drag our sleeping pads to the edge to stare at the stars. Being with him in the immense, wild beauty of the night is strangely familiar, but the girl reflected in his eyes tonight is different than she was before. I still recognize her, though, because I got a glimpse the first time around with Ben. Somewhere in the years without him, I became a more perfect version of myself.

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Annie on the Ganges River, Varanasi, India, 1995

34 Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j Adventure

In Pursuit of Waste Annie Leonardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crusade has spanned 20 years, 30 countries, and tons of garbage. By Noelle Robbins

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j Adventure 35

Annie Leonard doesn’t see herself as a superhero—just someone doing her job. During the past 20 years, she’s squared off against her share of bad guys, managing narrow escapes and prevailing against injustice. She’s taken risks and leaps of faith, witnessed heartbreak, set in motion forces of change and hope, and played a crucial role in making the world a cleaner, safer, and healthier place for us all. In the process she has garnered praise as one of the top activists in the field of environmental and social justice—praise she accepts with genuine modesty. Annie, 43, coordinates the Funders Workgroup for Sustainable Production and Consumption. The organization’s goals fit right in with her worldview: we can create a flourishing global economy that conserves fragile resources and promotes human well-being. Although Annie’s current work often finds her spending time behind a desk and on the phone setting up meetings and conference calls, her life has not always been so tame. Annie’s résumé detailing the past two decades includes investigative reporter, gymnast, and undercover cop. She’s rubbed shoulders and shared feasts with judges and rag pickers, legislators and rickshaw drivers, working with Greenpeace International, Health Care Without Harm, and other nonprofits on the front lines of a struggle to raise awareness about the toxic hazards and the human costs of our contemporary consumer lifestyles. Downright scary, physically treacherous, and lonely at times, Annie’s labors have also often been, as she likes to say, “absolutely hilarious!” Many of her tales of environmental sleuthing revolve around terrifying misadventures with unexpectedly comical twists. Despite the hardships and the fear, she never loses her perspective or irrepressible sense of humor.

“Annie ranks with Al Gore as an iconic spokesperson for sustainability and health on this planet.” Annie is “enthusiastic to the point of obsession,” says her good friend, former Greenpeace colleague Kenny Bruno. “She laughs a lot, even at the depressing, dirty nature of our work and the uphill battles we face.” And, Kenny adds, “Annie is principled but not preachy.” Her principles served her well when her search for the truth about international hazards of toxic waste and recycling met her resolve to share the facts with consumers worldwide, resulting in the creation of her video web documentary, The Story of Stuff, released in the fall of 2007 (www.storyofstuff.com). This spunky, rapid-fire 20-minute film features Annie and, with lively graphic animation, illustrates the birth and the death of consumer products—the tons of stuff we buy, throw away, and buy new again, often without a second thought about where it comes from or where it goes. Annie’s message distills her years of experience: what we purchase, how it’s made, and where it’s disposed of can have negative consequences for people in poor countries throughout the world. Annie never lectures, just asks us to become conscious consumers, offering concrete tips for making choices that can shift the balance toward a cleaner,

36 Women’s j Adventure

healthier planet. It’s a punchy presentation delivered with a dose of wit, and it’s become a global phenomenon. Making a film about the realities of resource use and waste disposal was far from Annie’s mind nearly 16 years ago when she embarked on her quest to uncover the fate of the mountains of plastic we deposit in our recycling bins every day. Working for Greenpeace International as an international toxic trade campaigner, she used the Port Import Export Research Service database to locate ships hauling plastic out of the United States to China. “In 1991, over 75 million pounds of U.S. plastic waste” went to Hong Kong, she says in her Greenpeace investigative report. In 1992 these shipments represented more than half the total of all U.S. plastic exports. Annie found conditions in Chinese recycling factories primitive. She discovered that although the U.S. government does not list plastics as hazardous waste, many contain toxic chemicals, exposing workers, including children, to significant health risks. Plastic residues also find their way into local soil and water supplies. As if that is not enough, Annie learned that products made with recycled plastic are of inferior quality because manufacturing changes plastic composition. The result: shoddy products that ultimately end up in landfills. Uncovering the human and environmental costs of the plastic recycling export business propelled Annie forward through rough, grimy work, her relentless cheerfulness and sense of adventure rarely letting her down. “Oh, my god, it was so funny tracking this stuff down,” she says, feeling a little like Nancy Drew. Our plastic recycling was off to Hong Kong, with Annie in hot pursuit. Armed with nothing more than a list of addresses written in Chinese, which she couldn’t translate, Annie hopped an overnight boat from Hong Kong and rode buses deep into the Chinese countryside, following the trail of plastic. “I had no idea where I was going. I just kept going until I got to the factories and found tons and tons of plastic waste.” Annie would boldly walk into factories using fake ID. She was a student, a journalist, sometimes a savvy waste trader. “I would say, ‘It is so great how you are developing your country on the discards of the United States I want to hear more about it.’ Or I would say, ‘I want to send my garbage here for processing.’ Sometimes I would say, ‘I’m doing a research project.’ Nobody would stop me. I would just walk into these factories. It was so rare for a white person to even be there. The assumption was that there must be some good reason (I was there) because I was in the middle of nowhere in China in these industrial areas. This was before there was a heightened awareness of environmentalists. I got away with a lot of stuff that I could not get away with now. I walked in, started taking all these pictures, and just walked out.” Except for the time she was stopped cold in her tracks. “One time I took so many pictures of this factory that was just full of United States garbage. As I was walking out, a worker came charging after me, and I was like, Oh shit! He demanded that I see the manager. I thought, Oh no, I’m in big trouble! It turns out the manager was upset because I was leaving before I had tea. So we had a cup of tea together,” she laughs. The findings of Annie’s stealthy work supported Greenpeace International’s campaign to ban exports of hazardous waste from the world’s richest countries to the world’s poorest. “Recycling is very often a superdirty, toxic industry, and Greenpeace asked the question, Why do people in third-world countries have to bear the price of our consumption in the U.S.? If we are going to use disposable toxin-laden stuff, we should have to deal with it ourselves,” she says. Annie knew that her research was a key element of the Greenpeace argument, and she followed every lead, inspired and determined. Sometimes, though, during her assignment in China, an overpowering sense of aloneness left her reeling.

A local woman stands in a sea of imported plastic waste, Indonesia, 1992. Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j Adventure 37

Indian environmental health activists protesting at the Basel Convention meetings in 1995. Annie helped organize the protest in collaboration with Greenpeace Internationalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lobbying efforts.

38 Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j Adventure

She remembers renting a video camera from a Hong Kong electronics store to document the horrendous plastic waste processing conditions, endangered workers, and damaged local environment that she observed in factory after factory. The weather turned nasty, and Annie felt trapped. “I was traipsing around the countryside in China, and it started pouring rain, and I had this video camera I had to keep safe. I just remember walking in the pouring, pouring rain, and I had to take my coat off to wrap around this video camera.” She wandered the empty streets in the soaking torrents and became aware of eyes watching from behind curtains in the houses she passed. “I thought, You guys are all watching me in the pouring rain, and nobody even invited me in.” She finally sat on a curb, drenched and miserable, momentarily filled with doubt, and wept. “Why am I not at home in my nice apartment in Washington, D.C.?” In her heart Annie knew that the answer to that question had taken root many years earlier, while she was growing up in the beauty of the outdoors near her Seattle, Washington home. Spending hours with her family, camping and hiking in the forests of the Pacific Northwest, Annie developed a deep love for the natural world. She recalls long drives in the car, gazing at the green farms and woodlands flowing past her window. She also remembers watching suburban sprawl slowly eating away at her beloved woods. Where are the forests going? she wondered.

Gary Yeowell / The Image Bank / Getty Images

She’s taken risks and leaps of faith, set in motion forces of change and hope, and played a crucial role in making the world a cleaner, safer, and healthier place for us all. Annie’s mother, Bobbie Leonard, remembers her daughter’s acute ability to observe and act, starting at a very young age. “She was interested in nature ever since she was a little kid. She would never step on a bug,” Bobbie says. “Once a neighbor illegally cut down some tree branches to improve his view. Annie promptly got on the phone to report the violation.” Needless to say he was not happy about being turned in. Annie was about 11 years old at the time. When Annie left Seattle to attend Barnard in the urban jungle of New York City, she took her passion for nature with her. To her environmental science professor she declared her intention to be the first female secretary of the interior. But somewhere between her dorm room and the White House, garbage got in the way—piles of refuse on the sidewalks of New York to be exact. Annie found herself sifting through the discards initially fascinated, then horrified, by what people were throwing away. A college field trip to the Fresh Kills Landfill on Staten Island, which is large enough to be seen from outer space, produced an aha moment: This is where my forests are going! Annie graduated in 1986 with a degree in environmental and political science and spent the next 10 years working on the Greenpeace International Toxic Trade Team. She never completed her master’s in urban planning at Cornell. “When it came to Friday nights, it was a choice between working on degree requirements and stopping toxic waste dumps in Haiti,” she says. For Annie the choice was easy. And the choices, if not exactly the work, have been easy ever since. In the early 1990s, a Toxic Trade Team assignment took her to the Philippines to record the conditions in factories processing used car batteries and computer

Women’s j Adventure 39

From left: Annie collecting soil samples in Bangladesh while working for Greenpeace, 1992; girl in Bangladesh applying toxic fertilizer by hand

scraps for lead recovery. “That was so depressing,” she shudders. She witnessed scenes straight out of the Middle Ages. “It was so horrific. These people, with no worker protection, smashing open the batteries, draining out the acid, pulling out the lead. I have photos of these guys standing over open vats of melting lead. It was unbelievable.” And it was extraordinarily risky. Work in the Philippines was perilous because officials were used to meddling environmentalists and were certainly not eager to have their hazardous recycling operations exposed to global public scrutiny. Annie hired hotel workers to accompany her to factory sites, leaving them with firm instructions to wait outside. “I’m sure they must have thought I was nuts.” She told them, “If I am not back in one hour, call the U.S. embassy.” She would climb over the walls of factories that wouldn’t grant her access, run around taking samples and photographs, and run out. “In one battery factory, the guards pulled a gun on me and told me to get out of there, so I said, ‘okay!’” One of Annie’s former Greenpeace colleagues and good friends is still in awe. “Annie was always completely focused on raising awareness, on a global level, of the practice of exporting waste to impoverished countries,” says Heather Spalding, associate director of the Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association. “She traveled to dangerous regions of the world with only a camera, a few pieces of clothing, and very limited knowledge of the language.” Annie would capture images of what was happening, sometimes at great risk to her own health and life. “No matter what, she was always totally fired up and ready to go to places on earth that are poor, filthy, and polluted,” Heather says. “Annie is brilliant at strategies and at the same time so humble. She doesn’t care about recognition. All she cares about is getting information to effect change.”

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And she cares deeply about connecting with local residents in countries where she works. Robert Weissman, editor of the Multinational Monitor, has known Annie for more than 12 years. “She does not operate based on an abstract concern for the planet,” he says. “She is driven by concern for people living in marginalized communities all around the world—people too poor to live anywhere else.” This heartfelt concern shaped one of Annie’s most fulfilling experiences. Seeking R&R between her Greenpeace India assignments, Annie discovered Varanasi, a small, quintessential Indian town on the Ganges. Annie and her cohorts who often came to visit became friends with a rickshaw wallah named Mongol. Mongol acted as tour guide to the local temples. Annie and her pals took their turns pedaling the rickshaw. When she asked Mongol what his house looked like, she was in for a big surprise. “He cleaned the whole house,” says Annie. “His wife cooked this phenomenal feast. There were live musicians, all the neighbors—it must have been a source of pride for Mongol but also an enormous expense, a feast for dozens of people in what really was a slum.” The feast became a regular ritual, but Annie insisted on footing the bill. And her financial assistance went far beyond the neighborhood banquet. “One of my friends wondered if Mongol’s kids went to school,” she says. The answer, sadly, was no. So Annie and her friends chipped in to create an education-funding program for his four children. They covered tuition and uniforms and hired a tutor because the parents couldn’t help with schoolwork. “All of that came out to the price of one latte a day per person,” Annie says. “So my friends at home took up a collection and bought me an espresso machine.” In the past 10 years, Mongol’s children have received an undreamed-of chance at a better life.

Bharati Chaturvedi, a toxic waste activist in India, has known Annie since the mid-1990s. She’s not surprised that Annie took charge of the children’s education. “In Hindi we talk about firecrackers. There is no guarantee any will work. Some light up; some fizzle out. Annie is like a firecracker you know will always work. She explodes getting ideas done,” Bharati says. For some problems, however, even Annie comes up short on solutions, a situation she finds heartbreaking. One particularly poignant moment stands out for Annie. In the early 1990s, her work on the toxic trade campaign took her to a Bangladesh village marketplace to search for fertilizer mixed with toxic waste, shipped from a U.S. company and sold to unsuspecting farmers for $5 a bag. Annie found a man who had spread the poison on his fields. “I took soil samples, and he asked me what I was doing. With the help of a translator, we told him the problem and he got so excited. ‘Well I am glad you found out. Now that you found out, I am sure your government will come clean it up.’ My heart sank. I had to tell him, ‘Well, actually, no,’” she says. It made her realize how disposable some people are—and how important it was to change that reality. Sometimes, however, reality dramatically veers from Annie’s expectations, like the time she went to Cuba in 1993 on a global exchange program. When everyone in her group headed off to the beach, Annie went to the dump. “The tour leaders kept saying how great Cuba was, but I was skeptical. The only way I can know

Annie’s Tale

Hiroyuki Matsumoto

what is going on in a country is to visit the dump,” she says. Every dump tells Annie a story. Richer countries have more recoverable materials in the dump; poorer countries have an informal recycling population, which strips the dumps bare. Annie’s spent time in dozens of dumps in Latin America, Europe, Africa, and Asia. “I am used to seeing 20,000 people scavenging for food. I asked one young boy I saw in Cuba, ‘How come nobody lives here?’ I was just stunned. I had never seen a third-world country dump with nobody living there. He looked at me like I was from outer space. ‘Why would they want to live here?’ he asked. ‘They could live in a house.’” Most of her work, however, does not uncover the kind of pleasant shock she found in Cuba. Annie faced one of her biggest challenges on the Greenpeace team in India in the mid-1990s. The goal: support the UN effort to implement the Basel Convention, a ban on the export of hazardous waste from rich to poor countries for recycling. Annie’s task was to investigate import shipments and document the waste trade. She was up against powerful Indian business interests touting the economic benefits of job creation in their desperately needy country. Annie’s urgent charge was to expose the dirty, dangerous recycling industry before India could insert loopholes in the Basel Convention that would undermine its international clout— and time was running out.

Annie’s film is funny and frightening and something every consumer should see. Here in the United States the message really hits home because, as Annie says, “If everybody consumed at U.S. rates, we would need three to five more planets.” You can watch this 20minute film at www.storyofstuff.com. You will also find tips on what you can do to help promote a more sustainable world—a world that values all its citizens and uses its natural resources wisely.

And remember, as Annie also likes to say, “When you throw stuff away, there is no away.” You can learn more about Annie’s work at www.sustainabilityfunders.org. If you would like to follow in Annie’s footsteps, check out these websites: Greenpeace International: www.greenpeace.org Basel Convention—Basel Action Network: www.ban.org Rockwood Leadership Program: www.rockwoodleadership.org Environmental Grantmakers Association: www.ega.org

Mount Fuji, Japan Women’s j Adventure 41

In Bhopal, a city in central India, Annie found the evidence she needed. Huge industrial states were processing waste. “I went to the government guy whose job it was to develop industry, told him it was great they were recycling and that I would love to visit a factory that recycles,” she says. When she was granted access to the factory, nothing could prepare her for the appalling surroundings. “There was hazardous waste everywhere. The workers were carrying baskets on their heads—lead dripping out.” Her secret photos of the scene led to the making of a Greenpeace movie, Slow Motion Bhopal, which was screened at a key international meeting. The film offered graphic proof of the revolting work conditions at the factory and was instrumental in overcoming India’s objections to the Basel Convention. Annie chuckles recounting how events unfolded. “By total coincidence the minister of the environment in India took the head of a factory—the very same polluted factory I had visited, the one Greenpeace filmed—to this pivotal Basel Convention international meeting. This factory was supposed to be a shining example of how well India handled waste,” she says. All the countries at the meeting were unified in their refusal to be the West’s rubbish bin—except India, where government and industry officials insisted that they wanted to take waste for recycling because they handled it so well. “Then they showed Slow Motion Bhopal and jaws dropped.”

The findings of Annie’s stealthy work supported Greenpeace International’s campaign to ban exports of hazardous waste from the world’s richest countries to the poorest. The factory head was embarrassed and in grave trouble for violating environmental laws. Annie’s undercover work helped save the Basel Convention, but she had roiled the political waters, and her life was in danger. Andre Carothers, a longtime friend and neighbor, was used to hearing from Annie late at night, at least once or twice a year, with pleas for help. “She would call, ‘Get me out of this pickle!’” he laughs. “But really there was no one I would rather be with in India. It was thrilling to find yourself in the middle of an adventure with Annie, swept along in the Annie vortex.” Andre, co-founder of the Rockwood Leadership Program, which would later present a life turning point for Annie, had no idea how serious this particular “pickle” was. Death threats followed her back to India. Thugs lured her to clandestine meetings in dark alleys. She managed a slim escape during a hair-raising chase at a factory site by leaping into a bus of startled schoolgirls. Greenpeace hired a bodyguard for her protection, but, she says, laughing, “I was committed to nonviolence; I wouldn’t let him carry a gun.” And she remained undeterred in her mission. “I thought, What kind of inspiration am I to people if I say, ‘Hey, guys, let’s fight toxic waste,’ and the minute it gets scary I run away?” Eight years ago, at 35, Annie’s life mission shifted forever when she gave birth to her daughter, Dewi. Gary Cohen, co–executive director of Health Care Without Harm, who had known Annie for more than 10 years, saw a new, deeply 42 Women’s j Adventure

intimate side of her life. “She protected that relationship—the mother and child bond—with fierceness, like a mother lion with her cub,” he says. At a Health Care Without Harm meeting, Annie demonstrated the power of that profound bond. “We were supposed to bring something that inspired our work, so I brought my brand-new infant and talked about breastfeeding: ‘We think of all the ways big polluting companies violate us—they contaminate our water, put toxins in our shampoos, our food, maybe our breast milk. I wanted to be a mother my whole life; I longed to be a mother. And when I finally got to be a mother, I should have been able to bring my daughter to my breast with 100 percent love and nothing else. But I had a shadow of fear when I breast-fed.’” Her impassioned speech continued: “I feel breastfeeding is the most fundamental human act of nurturing, and it should be safe and sacred. I want mothers everywhere to be able to breastfeed without fear.” Annie’s motherhood fuels her commitment to her work and keeps her close to her Berkeley, California, home. This is fine with her because her world travels impressed on Annie one inescapable truth: change needs to start in your own backyard. “It is like the analogy— you see babies floating on the river and you can keep pulling them out, or you can say, ‘Who’s throwing the babies in the river?’ I had to come home,” she says, “because we’re the ones throwing the babies in the river.” Annie wanted to share what she had learned—the ripple effect our consumer habits have in developing countries around the globe. She wanted to keep the babies out of the river. She had to tell the story. She just needed to figure out how. A Rockwood Leadership Program training retreat supplied her inspiration. This nationally recognized organization coaches nonprofit leaders and activists. “One of the things we talk about is how we communicate our purpose,” she says. Annie launched into a presentation about “materials.” As she reached her conclusion, a well-known political activist raised his hand and said, “I have no idea what you just said.” She was astounded. “I said, ‘You’re kidding! What’s not to understand? Too many materials, too-toxic materials.’” His response? “What’s a material?” She told him it was what he was sitting on. “No,” he said, “I’m sitting on a chair.” Annie didn’t see a chair. She saw vanishing teak forests, displaced woodland dwellers, and toxic varnishes. Then it hit her: “I had gone to so many factories and dumps around the world, where our stuff is made and where it is disposed of, that when I look at something its whole life cycle flashes before my eyes.” The group challenged her to find a way to talk to regular people, and The Story of Stuff was born. Since its web release, The Story of Stuff has had more than 3 million views and has been seen in 214 countries. On some days Annie receives hundreds of e-mails from around the world. Annie admits to mixed feelings about what she has seen during her years of global environmental activism. “I have a love/hate relationship with recycling. I love that it is a way to get people in this country to start thinking about stuff, especially young kids,” she says, “but I worry that it is too often presented as a magic bullet that will solve everything. Recycling is still dirty, it still takes lots of oil, and it still causes pollution. Our goal should not be to recycle more but to waste less.” Gary Cohen calls Annie one of the midwives of a global movement. “She ranks with Al Gore as an iconic spokesperson for sustainability and health on this planet,” he says. Annie accepts praise from her colleagues and friends—accomplished environmental trailblazers in their own rights—with a refreshing blend of reticence and bashful pleasure. But for Annie it’s never been about the accolades; it’s always been about making a difference. Annie Leonard is many things: funny, passionate, and fearless. And when it comes to uncovering the toxic truth about all the stuff we buy, use, and throw away—or recycle—maybe a little bit of a superhero too.

Jeremiah Holland

Annie with daughter Dewi at the Berkeley recycling center, 2008 Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j Adventure 43

44 Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j Adventure

As counterintuitive as it may seem, the survival of certain threatened species might just hinge on ecotourism.

Martin Child / DIGITAL IMAGES / Getty Images

By Sarah Murray

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j Adventure 45

Bukit Lawang, Sumatra, Indonesia About the Sumatran Orangutan Although chimpanzees are

more closely related to humans in terms of genetics, the orangutan shares more features with us than any other living creature. These highly intelligent, red-haired giants spend the majority of their waking hours swinging leisurely through the jungle canopy in search of fruit. There are only two places in the world where orangutans still live in the wild: Sumatra and Borneo, both islands in the Indonesian archipelago. 46 Women’s j Adventure

Paul Kennedy / Lonely Planet Images / Getty Images

in the wild is an experience that strips a human being of all pretenses. For a still moment, everything in the jungle falls away. The cicadas’ song is silenced by the sound of your own pumping heart. The gentle being humbles you with her largesse. A peaceful gaze unveils a sense of shared vulnerability. The captivation transcends pictures and summons an appreciation of the dance between evolution and spirituality. The image, the feeling, the knowing truly moves your soul. And do you suppose the reverse holds true? When that orangutan slowly swings away, have you moved her? We love to catch a glimpse of creatures in the wild, but what is the impact of their exposure to us? While the experience of coming face-to-face with an orangutan or a lion constitutes a supremely satisfying adventure from our perspective, it is naive to believe that our passion for the moment does not have consequences. Since the beginning of time, humans have been an integral part of the destruction of thousands of native plant and animal species. There are now 41,415 species on the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red List—the most comprehensive accounting of threatened species. In the past 500 years, more than 800 species have been forced into extinction, including Caspian tigers, eastern elk, and the imperial woodpecker. So here we are, at a point in history when one in four mammals is in jeopardy of extinction. What now? A logical answer would be to quit our sprawling ways, turn off our car engines and air-conditioners, and think twice about throwing out the most recent direct-mail piece from the World Wildlife Fund. The bad news: That’s not enough. The destruction of native habitats and the disappearance of indigenous species will continue unless we all become proactive about their conservation. The good news: As counterintuitive as it may seem, the survival of certain endangered species might just hinge on ecotourism. “Conserving endangered species in the developing world is a challenge because it is often more economical from the government’s point of view to use wildlife habitat for other purposes, such as to extract timber or for large-scale agriculture,” says Dr. Sonya Kahlenberg, one of the nation’s leading chimpanzee researchers from Harvard University, who has done extensive conservation work. “Ecotourism can play a big role in reversing this trend because wildlife tourists can make animals and their intact habitat a revenue-generating resource. In Uganda, for example, ecotourism is becoming an important source of income for the country. This has positive implications for conservation because it means that protecting endangered species and their habitat becomes a priority for decision-makers.” The line between the positive and the negative impacts of tourism on a threatened population could not be finer. The money you spend on a jungle trek to see an orangutan in the wild can be funneled into rehabilitating ex-captives, conducting research, and generally raising global awareness about their fight for survival on this planet. Ecoconscious travelers wanting to spend time among extraordinary wildlife must be incredibly careful about choosing outfitters with a commitment to preservation. For every company promoting conservation, there are several others who are willing to compromise the health of the habitat or species for your dollar. Ready for an epic encounter? Here are five wildlife adventure trips around the world that will blow your mind while contributing to conservation.

As of 2007 there are only about 7,000 Sumatran orangutans left in the wild, making their status “critically endangered” on the IUCN’s Red List—just one step away from extinction. A major threat to orangutans is logging of their forest habitat. “Logging is often the best job available to people living near forests,” says Kahlenberg. “But as ecotourism is developed as an alternative livelihood, native populations are finding it to be a lucrative and more sustainable income option. The effect is a win-win: people’s lives are improved and at the same time the reduction of logging helps preserve the orangutan habitat.” The Adventure The best place in Sumatra to see orangutans in the wild is the epic Gunung Leuser National Park—a three-hour bus ride from Medan, the capital city. Start your day in the singletrackaccessed Bukit Lawang, with homemade banana pancakes at the perfectly primitive Jungle Inn (telephone: +6281 3707 30151) perched directly across the river from the orangutan sanctuary. If you’re lucky, you can see orangutans playing in the water while you sip the best chai of your life (www.wikitravel.org/en/gunung_leuser_national_park). For the full experience, take a two-day trek into the jungle, which can generally be arranged by word of mouth. Most of the guides in Bukit Lawang grew up in the jungle and have an incredible tracking sense. The trekking is equally rigorous and rewarding, with orangutan spottings multiple times during the day. Coming face-to-face with a

Art Wolfe / STONE / Getty Images

curious relative will leave you humbled and smiling. Cross the river before dusk, bathe in the waterfalls, and fall asleep to the beautiful symphony of gibbons. Day 2 includes a little more trekking and a wild river tubing trip back to town that you won’t soon forget. In between rapids, keep your eyes on the riverbanks, as the area is dense with Thomas leaf monkeys, toucans, and monitor lizards.

The IUCN predicts that if climactic trends continue, the polar bear’s range will be completely gone within 100 years. Currently, they are considered a vulnerable species on the Red List and, as of 2008, they have been added to the U.S. Department of the Interior’s Endangered Species List. It is estimated that between 20,000 and 25,000 polar bears are living today in various areas of the Arctic.

Ethical Outfitters Bukit Lawang consists of a handful of hotels and restaurants that run along the river (Eco Lodge, Jungle Inn, and Sam’s are reliable and can generally be booked upon arrival). Unfortunately, a giant flood in 2003 left the town without Internet. Ask the proprietor at your lodgings for a local guide (“Alec” is highly recommended). Any trip you take into the jungle should include the purchase of a permit, which the guide will secure and you’ll only have to sign. Proceeds from this permit go to the management of the sanctuary.

The Adventure Saying that viewing polar bears in the wild is a

When to Go Trekking into the jungle at Bukit Lawang is best

done during the dry season that runs from April to September. During the other half of the year, daily monsoonal rains often cause mudslides and raised water volume, making trails and river crossings impassible.

Churchill, Manitoba, Canada About Polar Bears Thanks in no small part to Al Gore and

Disney’s Arctic Tale, the world is learning quickly about the plight of the polar bear. Global warming is causing the sea ice to melt earlier in the year. Polar bears can hunt seals consistently only from that sea ice. They rely on fat storages to last for the time that they are onshore—which is becoming longer and longer. The bears are literally starving to death because they can’t hunt from the shores. In late summer and early fall, they are forced to swim in search of food. Beyond depleting precious energy reserves, the bears have been drowning from having to swim longer distances.

once-in-a-lifetime opportunity may not be much of an overstatement. And there’s no better place to see these amazing creatures than at Churchill, which has one of the biggest polar bear denning areas in the world and lies near the southern limit of where the bears can live year-round. Each year they congregate on the shores at Churchill, waiting for the ice to return and the feeding to begin. Churchill Northern Studies Centre offers a learning vacation in November, with all profits going to supporting the science behind conservation. You’ll spend five days learning all you’d ever want to know about polar bears from professional scientists and researchers. The actual viewing happens in a vehicle created specifically for the tundra. Bundle up in the elevated flatbed truck, and, if you’re lucky, curious polar bears will come right up to the vehicle. You’ll also enjoy a helicopter ride and day spent dogsledding, truly capturing the complete picture of this arctic region. Ethical Outfitters Churchill Northern Studies Centre (www.

churchillscience.ca) charges $2,200 for a five-day learning vacation. Several commercial groups offer viewing tours, including the Tundra Buggy Adventure (www.tundrabuggy.com). Prices are typically allinclusive and range from $2,500 to $5,000. Want to see the bears without the hum of a motor? Try one of the Nature 1st Tours walking tours (www.nature1sttours.ca), which cost $70 for a half-day hike and $135 for a full day. When to Go The best time to see polar bears in Churchill is October

and November, when they congregate to await the arrival of the sea ice and its promises of food. If you’re lucky, you might catch a glimpse of a beluga whale at the tail end of its migration. Women’s j Adventure 47

Everyday Ways to Help Preserve the Planet’s Precious Species Use Your Vote At the end of the day, the protection of natural lands and the animal species that depend on them lies in the hands of politicians. Take the time to learn candidates’ environmental views and voting records and, come November, go for the ecovote. Go to www.votesmart.org and click on Animal Rights and Wildlife issues. Revolutionize Your Ring The Center for Biological Diversity offers free endangered species ring tones. Download the sweet song of the beluga whale or the howl of a Mexican wolf. When your cell phone chirps or pant-hoots at the next girls’ night out, spread the good word about conservation to all your friends (www.rareearthtones.org). Donate to an Organization Countless nonprofit organizations conduct research, lobby politicians, and get out in the field to protect wildlife. Join a general organization, such as the World Wildlife Fund, or give to an animal-specific group, like the Mwaluganje Elephant Sanctuary.

Preserve Local Habitats One in four mammals, one in eight birds, onethird of all amphibians, and 70 percent of the world’s assessed plants on the 2007 IUCN Red List are in jeopardy. Chances are good that there are endangered species right outside your door. Do the little things to help preserve native habitats: stay on trails, clean up after your dog, reconsider real estate development, and always follow Leave No Trace ethics when playing outside.

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Fred Felleman / STONE / Getty Images

Reduce Your Carbon Footprint A major contributor to the endangerment of hundreds of species is global warming. What we do in Anytown, USA, has lasting effects on the global climate. Consider what impact you have on retreating sea ice. Drive less, bike more, recycle, reduce your waste, and turn off your lights.

San Juan Islands, Washington About Orcas Also known as killer whales, orcas have a unique aesthetic allure and the ability to capture our imaginations. The largest and most intelligent of the dolphin family, they are widespread on a global scale, although regional populations can be small and highly specialized. Orcas are currently tagged as “conservation dependent” on the IUCN Red List. There are 89 known resident orcas around the San Juan Island archipelago. The three pods (family groups) make up the population known as the southern resident killer whales. The greatest threats to their livelihood have been whaling (prior to the 1981 international moratorium), vessel disturbance, and habitat degradation from industrial contaminants. The compromise of the ocean habitat has dramatically jeopardized salmon, their primary food source, creating a compounded challenge for their survival. The Adventure There is perhaps no more humbling feeling than that of kayaking alongside an orca in the open ocean. With part of your body literally beneath the water in your boat, you can’t help but feel a part of the serene world you’re exploring. The San Juan Islands National Wildlife Refuge off the coast of Washington offers the opportunity to sidle up to orcas. Depending on how much paddling you’re willing to do, your adventure can last anywhere from three hours to five days.

Your greatest chance of seeing orcas is on the west coast of the island, with tours leaving from Friday and Roche harbors. Although outfitters claim high sighting percentages during the season, there is some luck involved. Orcas regularly cover up to 100 miles per day. Kayakers typically move at a pace of about 3 miles per hour. If you want to increase your chances of paddling with orcas, opt for a five-hour or longer trip. Keep your eyes peeled for the harbor seals, porpoises, gray whales, and Pacific white-sided dolphins, who also call the Puget Sound home. Ethical Outfitters Look for outfitters and guides who belong

to the Whale Watch Operators Association Northwest and follow the prescribed guidelines for marine wildlife viewing. San Juan Safaris follows strict National Outdoor Leadership School standards and offers trips guided by trained naturalists who educate guests on orca conservation issues. Prices range from $70 for a threehour trip to $200 for a three-day/two-night paddling adventure. www.sanjuansafaris.com When to Go You’re most likely to see the orcas that reside near

San Juan Island (and experience pleasant weather) from mid-April through September. During these months the orcas feed on salmon that run in the surrounding waters. During the winter months, orcas migrate to the open ocean. Women’s j Adventure 49

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Stan Osolinski / TAXI / Getty Images

The Adventure It is rare to be guaranteed sightings of any

Katmandu Valley, Nepal About the Red Panda Red pandas are small, shy creatures that

look like a cross between a raccoon and a giant panda. They are found in just a few remote regions of Asia, including the Himalayas, northern Myanmar, and in China’s Sichuan and Yunnan provinces. An estimated 7,000 red pandas remain in the wild, making this arboreal species officially endangered. The disappearance of the species is a quintessential example of a natural habitat being compromised for the economic sustainability of a human population. In Nepal the bamboo forests that red pandas inhabit are being logged to support the economy of the 30,000 villagers who live in and around Langtang National Park. Without economic alternatives, the clear-cutting of the forests is unfortunately but understandably more valuable to the local population than the red panda. To be successful, conservation efforts to ensure the survival of the red panda must address the economic needs of the Nepalese. Providing native populations with educational and potential incomeearning opportunities through ecotourism enables villagers to become financially invested in seeing the red pandas and their habitat live on. The Adventure A trip to the Katmandu Valley to spot red pandas is an experience that goes far beyond wildlife viewing. The Red Panda Network runs two ecotrips each year to the heart of the region. Just as conservation hinges on local culture, the trip includes introductions to both biological and cultural life. Beyond the wildlife and the cultural experience, you’ll find yourself trekking in a mountain-lover’s Shangri-La. The journey starts in rhododendron forests in southeastern Nepal. You’ll pass through oolong and Darjeeling tea estates, wander around Buddhist and Hindu temples, and drop-jaw at the magnificent sights of four of the world’s tallest peaks, including Mount Everest. The adventure culminates with a hike to Kalpokhari to search for the red panda in its pristine natural habitat. Although red pandas are elusive, tracking them is made easier by the fact that their home territory is typically just one square mile (for females, twice that for males). In addition to the red pandas, if you’re able to take your eyes off the glorious mountains, you’ll also have a chance to see clouded leopards, wolves, and various rare species of birds.

animal while on safari. A trip to the Mwaluganje Elephant Sanctuary guarantees not just a glimpse of wild elephants but a chance to contribute to their survival. The sanctuary is a community-based initiative aimed at reducing human/elephant conflicts in an area with the highest density of elephants in Africa. More than 200 families have voluntarily contributed land to the reserve, agreeing not to farm this critical habitat. The beauty of this project is that the contributing families are earning more from ecotourism than they would from farming. Gate entrance fees have enabled the community to build school classrooms and enjoy better roads and a steady water supply. As a volunteer, you’ll work with experts from the Kenya Wildlife Service and the local community, identifying elephants, recording herd behavior, and getting an intimate look at the species. Those in search of relaxation fear not—this is hardly a working vacation. Daily game drives and guided walking safaris in Tsavo East National Park are spaced out among white-tablecloth meals and relaxation on the white-sand Diani Beach. Watch the sunset with a cocktail in hand in front of a raging campfire, and doze off under the stars in a private thatched-roof bungalow while being serenaded by the trumpeting of elephants. Ethical Outfitters African Mecca Safaris is just one of

many tour companies that arrange trips to Mwaluganje Elephant Sanctuary and nearby beaches and mountains. Transportation, accommodations, food, entry permits, and game drives are included, with prices ranging from $450 for a three-day stay to $1,500 for a seven-day trip (www.africanmeccasafaris.com/kenya/safaris/parks/ mwaluganje.asp). When to Go Although you can see African elephants at the sanctuary virtually anytime of year, plan your trip to coincide with the great migration of the wildebeest in mid-July through mid-August. Truly one of the most magnificent spectacles of the natural world, more than a million wildebeests travel in a single herd across the savanna in search of rain and fresh grass.

Ethical Outfitters The Red Panda Network, a nonprofit

organization, runs two all-inclusive ecotrips each year for $3,000, which includes food, internal airfare, park fees, accommodations, and transportation. Proceeds from the trips go toward research and community-based education and conservation (www.redpandanetwork.org). When to Go Fourteen-day trips are available in November/ Martin Child / digital vision / Getty Images

December and March/April.

Mwaluganje Elephant Sanctuary, Kenya About the African Elephant Even the world’s largest terrestrial mammal isn’t immune to endangerment. For decades African elephants have been poached for their ivory tusks, which hold disturbing value on the black market even today. With a population of between 470,000 to 690,000 individuals across almost a dozen countries in Africa, the species is considered vulnerable by IUCN standards. African elephants live in savannas, broadleaf forests, and woodlands. Loss of those habitats to a growing human population has threatened the survival of the species. In Kenya only 20 percent of the known elephant habitats exist within protected lands. The result of the majority of elephants living in unprotected areas is constant conflict with humans, who are often afraid of the animals, thus further threatening their lives.

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OND Comings They say the journey is the destination. Maybe they’re right. By Mary Catherine O’Connor

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Flip as she begins her Greenland trek

To these people the activity itself, no matter what it is, is self-rewarding. “People who are motivated through intrinsic regulation persist more frequently even under extreme challenges.” For Australian Felicity (Flip) Byrnes, it’s clear that her source of motivation is linked to her sense of self. Adventuring, she learned relatively late in life, is in her blood. When Flip told her family that her plan for college was to become a photojournalist, her grandmother nonchalantly remarked, “Just like my father.” Upon further querying Flip came to learn that her great-grandfather, whom she had never met nor knew anything about, had indeed been a photojournalist. His name was Frank Hurley, and in 1914 he joined the crew of the Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition and a ship called The Endurance, captained by Ernest Shackleton, bound for the South Pole. That trip, and Hurley’s photos from it, are famous not because the adventurers reached their goal—they didn’t—but because they all made it out alive after ice destroyed The Endurance and the crew spent nearly two years marooned in Antarctica and later on Elephant Island. “It was like meeting a ghost,” Flip says, after also learning that the stark black-andwhite image of an ice-choked ship that had always been hanging in her grandmother’s hallway—a picture she had passed a thousand times without ever thinking much about— was taken by her great-grandfather during that famous expedition. As the years passed and Flip, now 33, completed her studies and became a freelance travel writer, she felt her great-grandfather’s presence grow stronger, until she came to a crossroads. “I was newly single and found some liberty in that, so I made a list of things

I wanted to do; at the top of that was to start pursuing this heritage of exploring. All these random events started happening. I met someone who had been to the North Pole, and he became a mentor to me; then I started contacting all the people I could find who had been to the poles.” Flip set a big, long-term goal for herself. It was the same one that her great-grandfather fell short of: reaching the South Pole. But she knew enough to know that a budding arctic explorer doesn’t cut her teeth on a go at a pole. She would start by crossing Greenland, she decided. She would be only the second Australian woman to cross Greenland but,

courtesy Flip Byrnes

here are a good number of important firsts in the annals of outdoor sports: In 1975 Japan’s Junko Tabei became the first woman to summit Mount Everest. In 2006 Kit DesLauriers became the first woman to ski from the seven summits, the highest peak on each continent (Tabei was the first to climb all seven). In 1993 Lynn Hill became the first person, male or female, to free-climb the revered Nose route on El Capitan in Yosemite. These accomplishments did much to equalize the playing field between the genders and inspire millions of women to follow in the footsteps of these pioneering female athletes. But for each of these successes, there are many more women who fell short on significant firsts, new records, or other important goals. So did these athletes miss their targets due to a lack of dedication, focus, passion, or verve? Certainly not. A seemingly small ailment mushroomed and forced Flip Byrnes to bail out of a recent monthlong trekking and kite-skiing trip across Greenland. Elite rock climber Bobbi Bensman lost a coveted title due to a twist of fate. And back in 1982, Julie Moss made history for not winning the Ironman Hawaii triathlon. These individuals didn’t bring home the gold, so to speak, but what they did bring back is infinitely more valuable. And the fortitude they displayed, regardless of the outcome, is an inspiration all its own. Where does it come from, this drive? Research shows that while external sources of motivation might push us toward an athletic endeavor, it’s the stuff inside us that really gets us there. Philip Wilson, an assistant professor in the Department of Physical Education and Kinesiology at Brock University in Ontario, Canada, has conducted studies into the nature of motivation among athletes. Although his research focused on mainstream sports such as college basketball, some of his findings give insight into the origins of the intense drive shown by endurance athletes as well. “The assumption has traditionally been that motivation is a simple thing,” says Wilson. “If you look at literature that comes with dietary supplements, exercise machines, et cetera, you would think that motivation is simple, but the opposite is true. “No magic bullet exists for all people that will magically motivate them to be active and engage in exercise over longer periods of time,” Wilson continues. Some people are motivated more by external factors—a metaphorical carrot in front of them, such as a gold metal or the admiration of their peers— while others are driven by internal factors: they exercise or eat right or floss their teeth because they know it will keep them healthy. But when it comes to the motivation needed to surmount a huge challenge, such as summiting a formidable mountain or breaking or setting a record (especially if that record is a first for a woman), athletes most likely have what Wilson calls intrinsic regulation. “This means you pursue a goal because it is consistent with your sense of self,” he says.

. . . and in the hospital after being flown off the ice cap

more importantly, the trip would be excellent training because crossing Greenland’s icecap takes about half the time as crossing Antarctica but the conditions are similar. Flip also decided that she’d take along her latest love: a kite-ski. On April 23, 2008, Flip and four others set out from Nagtivit, on the eastern coast of Greenland, on a diagonal course that, according to their plan, would put them in Ilulissat, on the west coast and more than 400 miles away, in roughly a month. The team fought nasty headwinds for the first two weeks. The wind kept them moving at a glacial pace, each hauling about 170 pounds of food, fuel, and gear on sleds. They also carried a rifle should they encounter an unwelcoming polar bear. Flip had been fighting a stomach virus before the trip. To keep themselves fueled, the team attempted to eat about 5,000 calories per day, but Flip’s virus came out of remission and her stomach would not allow it. “I could not keep my food down, and the bug was causing everything that went

in to come up again. I would feel fine and then vomit,” she says. “It was so frustrating. I was desperate to keep food down.” In addition to her nutrition problems, which left her weak and unable to work as hard as her team, Flip developed debilitating blisters on her feet. When she started seeing blood in her urine, it was obvious that it was time to go. “It was a great deal of common sense to make the decision. Things can go very badly very quickly, and I didn’t want that to be my last trip because I didn’t come off it,” she says. The team called in a helicopter to take Flip to a hospital back on the east coast, where it took 6 liters of fluids and a steady dose of antibiotics to get her hydrated and feeling better. (Soon after Flip flew off the icecap, the headwinds subsided and the team was able to reach a summit after they traveled via kite-ski with the prevailing winds. They completed the crossing safely a week later.) “I guess journalists are good at divorcing emotion from facts. It was a hard decision on my ego and my reputation, but they were

never my driving motivations anyway. I did what I set out to do, which was to test myself. It was a perfect reconnaissance for Antarctica because things went wrong. If this same outcome had happened in Antarctica— a two-month crossing—it would have been much worse. For my skills it was fantastic, and more than anything it confirmed for me that, mentally, an icecap is where I want to be. I learned so much on the expedition that I can’t count it as a failure.” And to the icecap Flip plans to return. After a trip to Beijing to cover the Summer Olympics, Flip hopes to travel to Norway, where she’ll kite-ski and train for another go at the Greenland crossing. And, when she’s ready, she hopes to take her kite-ski down to Antarctica. Many years before Flip’s foray into the great white yonder, and many miles away, in Rifle, Colorado, a rock-climbing mecca on U.S. 70 east of Denver, Bobbi Bensman ruled the rock. She was the best female climber in town and one of the top competitors on the international sport-climbing circuit. In 1993 local climber Kurt Smith established a climbing route that he called Slice of Life. He rated it at 5.14a (rock-climbing routes are graded on a decimal system from 5.1 to 5.15, though routes from 5.10 to 5.15 also carry subgrades, a for easiest through d for most difficult).

Fred Knapp / Sharp End Publishing

These individuals didn’t bring home the gold, so to speak, but what they did bring back is infinitely more valuable. Slice of Life was considered an extremely difficult route—perhaps the hardest in Colorado—and no woman had ever climbed a 5.14 in Rifle. One September day in 1996, Bobbi did it. She climbed Slice of Life. “It was a good ascent on my part,” she recalls of her effort. She was 31 at the time. “It didn’t take very long, and it was really cool to link up and do.” But her jubilation was short-lived. The very next day, the route was rerated—and downgraded to a 5.13d. With that Bobbi’s claim on Rifle’s first 5.14 female ascent was dashed. Bobbi Bensman climbing at Three Sisters Park near Evergreen, Colorado, 2008 Women’s j Adventure 55

Carol Hogan

Julie Moss crawling across the finish line of the 1982 Hawaii Ironman

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The first person to identify and successfully climb a new route gets to name and rate it. When Kurt Smith made the first ascent of Slice of Life, he considered it a 5.14. But when other climbers later followed the route, they found a number of spots, called knee bars, where they could rest during the climb. These knee bars suggested that the route was easier than 5.14, and the climbing community reached a consensus and decided to downgrade the rating to 5.13d, right when Bobbi completed the climb. But she says she did not find or use the knee bars during her climb. “It was pretty devastating,” Bobbi says, now 44, who retired from her life as a professional climber not long after the Slice of Life debacle and works as a sales rep for outdoor gear brands Salomon and Gramicci. “The climb was so important to me,” she says, adding that the fact that it happened in her home town was especially tough. But she refused to let the loss she suffered on Slice of Life stop her, and she quickly started working on a new goal: climbing another Rifle route called The 7pm Show, rated 5.14. She nearly completed the climb, but came just short. During her career, Bobbi has climbed more than 125 routes rated 5.13, so why does the lack of a 5.14 cause such a sting? Maybe it’s the curse of the firsts. In Rifle, the 5.14 brass ring remained unclaimed by a woman until 2005, when upstart Emily Harrington, then just 18, sent a 5.14 called Zulu. Bobbi would never have the title. But, of course, she wasn’t the only woman vying for the first 5.14 in Rifle. A number of other top women climbers had been chasing the goal—specifically The 7pm Show, which made it all the more rewarding to Emily when she made that climb her second 5.14. All these years later, Bobbi’s failure to grab a 5.14 still irks her, but it didn’t get the best of her. “I’ve moved on,” she says. “I had a great career, a great run of it. I’ve inspired a lot of people, I walk down the street and sometimes people still say ‘Oh my God, is that Bobbi Bensman?’ So I had an influence on people—especially women climbers.” In fact, perhaps Bobbi’s enduring reputation as a tenacious climber is somewhat underscored by the fact that she fell short of a single, important goal. People like underdogs, especially if they get an A for effort. Take, for example, Julie Moss, the woman who is credited with single-handedly putting the sport of triathlon on the map (both for men and women) . . . with a secondplace finish. In 1981, Julie was a 22-year-old student trying to wrap up her studies at Cal Poly in San Luis Obispo, California, flipping through stations on her TV, when something caught her attention: a broadcast of the Hawaii Ironman. It was just the fourth year of the event, and the second time it had been televised, carried by ABC’s Wild World of Sports. Despite being, at best, a pedestrian athlete, Julie honed in on the race because she saw it as her ticket out of school: she’d finish her

degree in physical education by writing a thesis about her training and competing in the Ironman Triathlon: a 2.4 mile swim, followed by a 112-mile bike ride, and topped off with a full marathon. So, less than a year out from the February 1982 race date, Julie signed up. Then, she says, she didn’t do much. “I procrastinated

“People could relate to Julie more than they could to someone who made it look easy.” with my training,” she says. She didn’t have a coach (triathlon coaches didn’t exist then). “I was so disconnected,” she says. “I bought a cheap bike and then just started swimming back and forth in the pool, but was very bored in the pool. I did run two marathons for training.” Overall, though, her training regimen would make any coach cringe. The marathons were timed far too close to race day, and she was riding her bike way too much on the days approaching the race. There was no pacing in her training, no slow build-up, and certainly no recovery time built in. “My one saving grace was that I had started surfing when I was 14, so I was comfortable in the water,” she says. (Actually, though, she also had natural talent as a runner . . . finishing both of her training marathons in around three and a half hours.) On race day, Julie joined 530 other entrants, and she was one of only 49 women. For the first part of the day, Julie just put her head down and cranked away. Her goal: to finish. “It’s such a long day, it wipes the smile off your face. It makes you operate at a level that I had never experienced before,” she says. But then, at around mile 20 of the marathon, she got some astounding news: she was the leading woman. Plus, there was a sizable gap between her and the second-place woman, Kathleen McCartney. This news changed everything. Julie transformed into a competitor. “I got the sense that I was accomplishing something huge, and something that would look good on paper, too.” She had nearly finished the race, nearly locked in an unlikely victory, when she bonked. And she bonked hugely. Go to You Tube and do a search for “Julie Moss” and “Ironman 1982” and watch the Wild World of

Sports clip that shows her crumbling to the ground, then fighting back to her feet, then falling again and eventually crawling, with a startling, steely stare, to the finish line. It’s no surprise that Julie hit the wall. Sports nutrition was relatively rudimental back then; she was subsisting on water and bananas. “I tried to eat a Snickers during the bike race, but it was melting and I didn’t want to get any on my face, because I could see the TV cameras on me, so I threw it away,” Julie admits. Of course, those same cameras were trained on her throughout the end of the race, as she stumbled and rose and stumbled again, but she paid them no mind. “The world got very small,” she says. “All I could think of was one foot in front of the other, with this underlying feeling that it was worth it.” But it wasn’t enough. Yards from the finish line, Kathleen McCartney closed the gap, passed Julie, and crossed the finish line. But that didn’t stop Julie. She kept crawling, until she collapsed, with one hand over the finish line and a smile on her face. She was soon whisked away on a stretcher. When the race was telecast weeks later, all the lights on the switchboard back at ABC Sports headquarters lit up at the end of the race, says Bob Babbitt, an Ironman athlete and co-founder of Competitor magazine. Some viewers were afraid she was dead. Days later ABC decided to do a live interview with both Julie and Kathleen. Triathlons had arrived. “Endurance sports were not something that Americans were familiar with,” says Bob. “People thought Ironman athletes were weirdoes, endurance freaks. Then in 1982 here is this red-haired, freckled girl, who could be your next-door neighbor, and she is trying to Climb Everest. She does not give up. People are watching her crawl. So they ask: ‘Why is this so important to her?’ “Her performance changed the scope of endurance sports from winning to competing,” Bob continues. “It was a human-interest story. People could relate to Julie more than they could to someone who made it look easy.” And what if she had won the race? What if she had finished first? Bob doesn’t believe that Julie would have made nearly as much of an impact. Julie went on to become a professional triathlete, though she admits it took her a number of years to really find her footing in the sport despite receiving generous sponsorships by gear companies from the beginning. She did well in a few triathlons on the international stage and did compete twice more in the Ironman, each time beating her finish time from the previous race, but she never won. The women’s field grew much larger and competitive after the 1982 Ironman. Now, at 49, Julie is an announcer for world-class marathons and triathlons. “People tell me that I inspired them to start doing triathlons,” she says. “You’d think that my performance would be discouraging, but it was the spirit that got people.” Women’s j Adventure 57

Jay Reilly / Aurora Photos Justin Bailie / Aurora Photos

whole health

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Turbocharge Your Workout Your guide to eating for energy By Kristin Bjornsen

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whole health

t’s time to take your game to the next level. For that, look to your diet. If you’re not getting the right kinds of food before, during, and after a race or hard workout, your body may be stuck in second gear—just when you need it full on. These simple nutritional strategies will help you go faster, go farther, and feel better. Before the Race “One of the greatest myths is that you should have a big pasta dinner the night before a race,” says Adam Korzun, MS, RD, sports dietician with the U.S. Olympic Committee. The underlying rationale—to load up on carbohydrates— makes sense, but you actually need to carbo-load three to four days before the event. In fact, “a big meal the night before can be detrimental to your performance because you don’t have time to process the food, so it’s just sitting in your system,” says Korzun. Instead of the all-you-caneat rotini, try these prerace strategies: ≥Three and four days before the race, chow down on 350 to 500 grams of carbohydrates per day. Your body stores the carbs as glycogen, which gets broken down into glucose (your muscles’ primo fuel) during exercise. Choose mostly complex carbohydrates, like whole-grain breads and pasta as well as fruit. With these foods the sugar releases into your body more gradually than do simple sugars, giving you long-lasting energy. ≥One day before, eat small meals every three to four hours, consisting of complex carbs, vegetables, and lean protein (such as skinless chicken breast, low-fat cottage

cheese, or tofu). “This will give you enough calories to maintain glycogen stores without putting too much in your system for you to digest,” says Korzun. ∑ Up to 80 percent of runners say they’ve suffered from “runner’s stomach” (cramps, the runs, and nausea). If prone to this, shy away from hard-to-digest foods the

“One of the greatest myths is that you should have a big pasta dinner the night before a race.” night before, such as cruciferous vegetables (broccoli, cauliflower, brussels sprouts, and cabbage), fatty foods (only 20 to 30 percent of the meal’s calories should come from fat), and dairy (if you’re at all intolerant). Easierto-digest veggies include asparagus, carrots, and canned vegetables. ≥In the days and hours preceding the race, hydrate up, “until your urine is close to clear,” says Korzun. ≥One to two hours before the race, eat 50 to 200 grams of carbohydrates (such as a bagel, two pieces of fruit, or an energy bar) and 5 to 10 grams of lean protein (one serving of yogurt, a few pieces of jerky, or low-fat string cheese), with fluids. “During exercise your body breaks down muscle fibers for energy,” says Korzun. “But some studies show that eating a little protein—not an entire steak or anything—beforehand slows that degradation.”

During the Race When your body runs out of glycogen, you “hit the wall,” or bonk. You can avoid that by supplying your body with a steady stream of simple carbohydrates—such as those found in energy gels, bars, fruit, pretzels, even candy— and, of course, the ever-important water. Here are some general guidelines: ≥For workouts shorter than 45 minutes, you probably need only fluids, says Korzun. Longer than that and you need simple carbs to stay energized. In one study

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Stockbyte / Getty Images

≥Ten minutes before the race, drink about 10 ounces of a sports drink. Food, however, may upset the stomach. In one study of half-Ironman competitors, all who ate within 30 minutes of the race threw up.

conducted by Chris Byrne, PhD, an exercise physiologist at the University of Exeter, people walked on an inclined treadmill with a backpack. Those who ate carbohydrates during the workout had significantly less fatigue and greater endurance. Every hour shoot for about 30 to 60 grams of carbs (equivalent to one or two gel packs, a large banana, or a medium-sized energy bar, like LUNA or Clif). ≥Although some studies show that eating protein midworkout decreases the breakdown of muscle, others show that it may hinder performance—like fueling a car with slower-burning fuel. While the debate rages, “the most important thing is to maintain fuel supplies by eating some carbs every hour,” says Korzun. ≥Be wary of bars or candy containing sugar alcohols like sorbitol, mannitol, and xylitol. Found in many low-carb or diet foods, sugar alcohols can have a laxative effect. ≥Drink fluids regularly (every 15 minutes, if you’re sweating a lot) because “dehydration decreases aerobic and anabolic capacity, increases fatigue, and decreases performance all around,” says Korzun. In fact, studies have shown that losing just 3 percent of your body weight in water impairs both physiological and cognitive functioning. How much you should drink depends on exercise intensity, the temperature, and your weight. (For instance, you can lose 0.5 liters per hour while walking on a warm day.) Byrne recommends drinking to sate thirst. “Thirst is the body’s excellent physiological mechanism for detecting changes in its body water levels,” says Byrne. “I don’t buy in to the oft-told story that by the time you become thirsty it’s too late, as dehydration is already present.” If you simply drink when thirsty, you might not replace all the fluid you’ve lost exercising, says Byrne, but by “using our thirst as a natural, commonsense, and technical-free approach, you can minimize the negative consequences of dehydration while protecting against the overdrinking condition of hyponatremia”—a life-threatening state in which the body is overhydrated and the electrolyte balance is skewed. ≥If you’re overheating, opt for drinking cold, icy liquids, which draw heat away from the body tissues and into the water, thus cooling you down. Sports drinks or water? You decide. Both rehydrate the body, Byrne says. True, sports drinks also contain electrolytes like sodium and potassium, critical for proper functioning of the muscles and the nervous system. (Foods like pretzels, gels, bananas, and bars provide electrolytes, too.) Just aim for getting about 0.5 grams of sodium every hour of exercise (for a 150-pound, lightly sweating person). Use caffeine wisely. Several studies on runners and cyclists support the ergogenic (performance-enhancing) effects of caffeine, and many bars and gels now contain the stimulant. But if you never eat caffeinated foods or drink coffee while training, don’t start on race day because everyone reacts a little differently to caffeine. Sometimes it can upset the stomach, cause anxiety, or, in people at risk for heart disease, decrease blood flow to the heart, according to a 2006 study at the University Hospital of Zurich.

After the Race Each race or workout should make you stronger for the next one. But that happens only if you give your body the building blocks it needs to repair and refuel muscles. Proper recovery becomes especially important if you’re working out again the next day. Here’s how to refill the tank: ≥In the first 30 to 60 minutes, eat at least 50 grams of simple carbs (an energy bar, fruit smoothie, or dark chocolate bar) and 10 to 20 grams of protein (½ cup of cottage cheese, one scoop of protein powder, or 2 ounces of skinless chicken breast). “During this window of time, your body is primed to synthesize glycogen,” says Korzun. By giving your cells carbohydrates and protein, “they can replenish glycogen fuel stores and rebuild muscle.” After an endurance event, eating healthy unsaturated fats (think vegetable oils, avocados, seeds, and walnuts) helps restore lipids used during the race, too.

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whole health WHAT THE PROS EAT

Natalie Woolfolk This Olympic weightlifter can snatch 231.5 pounds and clean-jerk 264.6 pounds. She holds four U.S. records and competed at the Beijing Olympics last summer. Before the comp: Peanut-butter sandwich, an energy bar, or a smoothie with fruit, protein powder, and fruit-and-vegetable juice. Lots of water. During the comp: LäraBars (especially the key-lime-pie flavor), peanut M&Ms, or a banana. After the comp: I let loose and eat whatever I want—something good and fattening. Can’t-say-no food: Green olives. I could eat the whole jar. Grin-and-bear-it food: I love vegetables but not if they’re mushy or tasteless.

Stephanie Tait Since May 4, Vancouverites Stephanie Tait and Matt Hill have run one marathon every day as part of their Run for One Planet campaign to raise money and awareness for environmental protection. By next spring they aim to have run a total of 11,000 miles across Canada and around the continental United States. www.runforoneplanet.com Before the run: Fruit juices, fried eggs, cheese, avocado, and organic meats, for a balanced mix of carbs, healthy fats, and protein. During the run: Everything from dark chocolate to natural potato chips to a turkey-andcheese wrap with lots of mayo. What stays consistent is a smoothie containing 1 scoop of protein powder, 3 scoops of CarboPro (complex-carb powder), 1 scoop of Gleukos (a glucose-based sports drink), and 1 teaspoon of trace minerals. After the run: Natural fizzy drink, recovery supplements, avocado, and natural chips. For dinner we have one of our “one-pot wonders,” like lean turkey or chicken stir-fries, tofu mix-ups, organic beef, or wild fish. I also regularly take a good multivitamin, vitamin C, iron, and calcium. Can’t-say-no food: Chocolate, fudge, brownies, Brie cheese, and natural chips. I probably have a lot of these each day on the road (hence why my six-pack is slow in coming!). Grin-and-bear-it food: I don’t like quinoa and several kinds of fruit (so I drink lots of Happy Planet juices). Also, I can’t stand downing my iron or calcium supplements because I chew them before I swallow to take in their full nutritional value.

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From top: Corey Rich / Aurora Photos; AFP / Getty Images; Courtesy Run for the Planet

Beth Rodden Top rock climber Beth Rodden has ticked off some of the hardest routes in the world, including the first ascent of a 5.14 crack in Yosemite in February. Before the climb: The day before, I eat cereal in the morning, then have fruit, a bar, beef jerky, and snacks throughout the day, and then for dinner: pasta, soup, or meat. During the climb: I just graze—whatever’s easiest to put in the pack. After the climb: Mostly, I try to get enough veggies and protein (chicken, beef jerky, or beans), which is hard living two hours from a good grocery store! (Rodden lives in Yosemite.) Can’t-say-no food: I love sweets. Grin-and-bear-it food: I’m not good at forcing that.

≥Drink plenty of water to rehydrate—preferably with food because “fluid consumed with a meal post-exercise has been consistently demonstrated to be superior at replacing body water than water alone or any sports drink,” says Byrne.

Some perform best on strict, low-fat, all-organic diets whereas others thrive on jelly donuts. ≥Snack on antioxidant-rich fruit and fruit juices, such as blueberries, cherries, apples, and apricots. Intense exercise creates free radicals in the body, called exerciseinduced oxidative stress. These highly reactive molecules damage cells and have been linked to aging, cancer, and other diseases. You can neutralize free radicals with the antioxidants in fruit. A 2006 study in Clinical Nutrition, for instance, found that cyclists who drank a black grape– raspberry–red currant drink after a strenuous ride decreased the amount of free-radical damage by 25 percent. ≥As a long-term recovery strategy, make sure you get enough iron. More than 36 percent of female athletes are iron deficient, according to a study in the Journal of the American Dietetic Association, often because of iron lost through menstruating, sweating, and blood cells rupturing when the foot hits the ground while running. The Recommended Dietary Allowance for non-pregnant women 19 to 50 years of age is 18 milligrams per day, which you can get from iron-rich foods like lean meats, lentils, fortified cereals, and green leafy vegetables. Take iron supplements only under a doctor’s supervision, however, because overdosing is dangerous. ≥Start an eternal love affair with nutrient-dense foods such as vegetables, fruits, whole grains, nuts, and beans as well as foods high in calcium, such as dairy, spinach, and soybeans. Research has shown that you lose calcium, magnesium, and zinc during exercise, largely through sweat, making it important to eat plenty of vitamin- and mineral-rich foods, not just post-race but as a lifelong habit. Of course everyone is different: Some perform best on strict, low-fat, all-organic diets whereas others thrive on jelly donuts. So figure out what works for you. The biggest mistake Korzun sees athletes make is being solely focused on refueling after the race. “Recovery takes place before and during the race, too,” he says. “If you go into a race with your tank half full, you’re going to come out of it empty and recovery will be harder.” If, on the other hand, you continuously fuel your body with the right food, it will be gunning to go 24/7.

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whole health Charge Up

Power Foods For Every Workout Stage

1 2

5 4 1

BumbleBars. Packed with wholesome seeds, nuts, agave nectar, and fruit, these tasty bars help your body recover by giving it protein, healthy fats, and natural sugars. www. bumblebar.com

Mix1. These fruit-and-protein smoothies are great a couple hours before a race or as a recovery drink. Favorite flavor: Blueberry vanilla. www.mix1life.com

Recharge. This all-natural sports drink gives you electrolytes and carbsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;without artificial colors or flavors. www.knudsenjuices.com

Recovery bar. With the perfect ratio of carbs, protein, and fats to repair muscles, the Recovery bar makes it easy to hit that 30- to 60minute postexercise window. www.powerbar.com

Sport Beans. Not only do Sport Beans taste like jelly beans, but a 2006 study by researchers at the University of California, Davis found that cyclists and triathletes had faster times when they ate Sport Beans partway through a workout. www.sportbeans.com

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yes, you can

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Survive in the Wild World of Budget Travel Staying savvy and prepared no matter where you are on the map

AAGAMIA / Getty Images

By Bryn Fox

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s j j Adventure Adventure 67

yes, you can

raveling on a budget can be the best way to experience a country. Many will agree, however, that the scariest part of traveling on a shoestring is not knowing what you’re getting yourself into and not anticipating the curve balls that might be thrown your way. But if you learn to expect the unexpected and be prepared for disasters of any size and shape, the next time you flash your passport you’ll do so with the finesse of a seasoned veteran. Riding Public Transportation Renting a car while traveling often means reading signs in foreign languages and sometimes driving on the opposite side of the road, among other things. In many cases taking public transportation not only is safer and more cost-effective but can be a cultural experience in itself.

Big-city subways. To avoid having to whip out your “I am a tourist” map in the middle of a crowded station, ask for help with directions in advance at your hotel or a visitor center. It’s also a good idea to find out how much the subway costs so that you can be prepared with the exact change. Most subway systems are color coded, so if you have a hard time finding the number or the name of the line you want, use the colors to guide you. Be sure your train is not an express train, meaning it will skip many of the stops on its route. “In countries where pickpocketing is a problem, never go around with an expensive watch, sunglasses, or a camera around your neck,” advises Thumb. “Never carry your passport and money in a handbag; buy a thin money belt to go around the waist and under the trousers or skirt instead. Only keep day-to-day cash in easily accessible pockets or bags.”

David H. Wells / Aurora Photos

Buses in Latin America. Old school buses go to Latin America to die. While the locals may think of them simply as public transport, most American travelers affectionately refer to them as “chicken buses” because you are almost as likely to share a seat with a chicken as with a person. When getting on, tuck all your belongings neatly into your luggage, as it will be heaved up top and anything not tied down is fair game. You will be packed in like sardines,

so know when your stop is coming up so you can begin making your way to the front of the bus to avoid missing it. “Traveling by chicken bus in Guatemala is a cramped but rewarding experience, as country women get on and dump their infants onto your lap in full expectation that you’ll take care of them for the duration of the ride,” says Tom Thumb, marketing manager of www.roadjunky.com.

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1. A map of the area 2. A business card of the place you are staying 3. Your passport 4. $20 worth of the local currency 5. Your health insurance card 6. Anti-diarrhea medication 7. Your passport number memorized 8. A pen 9. A positive attitude 10. An adventurous spirit

Taxis. Because there is little regulation for taxis (theoretically anyone could pick you up and take you somewhere for money), you have to be extravigilant when getting in one. Look for airport or city taxis that sport official seals. “That way there will be a documented record of your journey,” says Thumb. Check your guidebook to see if there are official taxis, or ask at a hotel or airport information desk. Tell the driver to start the meter so he doesn’t just charge some crazy amount when the ride is over, or agree in advance what the charge will be to get you to your destination. If a driver seems sketchy or unwilling to cooperate, get out and find another taxi. When in doubt, ask other travelers or hotel personnel for recommendations on reputable cab companies. Replacing a Lost or Stolen Passport The U.S. State Department stresses the importance of making photocopies of your passport before you leave home. Ideally, you should copy the whole thing, but at least copy the page that contains your passport number and photo. Stash one copy in your luggage separate from your passport, give a second copy to your traveling companion,

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Report it. If you become separated from your passport, report it immediately to the local police and then contact the nearest U.S. embassy or consulate. You can ask around to locate it, or before you leave home go to www.usembassy. gov to find the locations and contact info for the embassies closest to where you are planning to be. Replace it. Thanks to modern technology, passports have gotten more high tech and therefore can take some time to replace. Once you go to the consular office, you will need to fill out a new passport application, take a photo, and show other ID. They will electronically submit the information back to the passport office in Washington, . . . which will then send the new passport to you via courier. This can take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks. “If you’re broke, we can still get you home,” says Douglas Koneff, director of American Citizens Services at the U.S. State

Don’t fear the natives. Chances are you aren’t the first lost traveler who has wandered through the door. Department. “Usual application fees apply if you have to replace your passport; however, if your money has also been stolen, no fee will be charged and we can issue you a limited-validity passport to get you home safely.” If emergency strikes… The U.S. State Department claims that if there is a true emergency and you have to leave the country immediately, for $100 you can get a temporary passport issued, provided you have all of the necessary identification. This document is good for one year and is at the discretion of the embassy. You can get a temporary passport almost instantly when the situation permits. Dealing With Illness or Injury Plan ahead. If you take regular medication, “it is important to manage your chronic health conditions while traveling,” says Shelly Diaz, public affairs specialist at the Center for Disease Control in Atlanta. “You should plan to take a sufficient supply of medications in original containers.” Make sure you have at least enough to get you through the duration of your trip, plus an extra week’s worth in case you lose some or miss a flight.

PatitucciPhoto / Aurora Photos

10 Things to Never Leave Your Hotel Without

and leave a third copy at home with a friend. Having a copy will speed up the replacement process and will serve as identification.

RUN

CAMP

HIKE

BIKE

TREK

BAD THINGS HAPPEN I NEED HELP FAST!

SATELLITE MESSENGER I’ll activate my satellite messenger to save the day. Wait — It’s useless because its signal is too weak to penetrate the trees and/or clouds (and I forgot to pay the service fee).

CELL PHONE I’ll call for help on my cell phone. Uh oh. My cell phone is useless because I can’t get a signal (and I don’t know where I am even if I could get a signal).

406 MHz PERSONAL LOCATOR BEACON

MY WITS Am I hallucinating from pain? No matter. Using damp leaves and a pocket knife, I can probably fashion some sort of shuttle craft to fly myself back to safety.

GPS I will look at my GPS to tell me where I am. Great! Now I know where I am. If only I could telepathically communicate that information to someone who could save my life!

Like a ray of righteousness, my distress signal will blast through the tree canopy and reach the COSPAS-SARSAT satellite network within moments, triggering a search and rescue operation that will lead rescuers to my precise location.

Under the worst of circumstances, an ACR MicroFix personal locator beacon is your best last chance. Its internal 16 channel parallel GPS determines your position. Then, on the strength of an all-powerful 406 MHz signal, your position and unique identifier code are transmitted through the international COSPAS-SARSAT satellite network to Search and Rescue. It’s a proven system that has saved 22,000 lives worldwide since 1982 — proof positive that when it comes to life and death, sometimes you do have a choice. ACRELECTRONICS.COM ACR Electronics, Inc. is registered by UL to ISO 9001:2000

yes, you can Ian Cumming / Axiom Photographic Agency / getty images

Talk to your doctor. Before leaving home, you can ask your regular doctor to prescribe you some commonly used meds that might serve multiple purposes, such as antibiotics. You can also ask for prescriptions of any other drugs you get prescribed from time to time, like painkillers, allergy medication, or stuff for heartburn or yeast infections. If you tell your doctor you will be traveling abroad, he or she can usually give you a small supply of these to have on hand. This will save you a frantic trip to the pharmacy in the event that an old illness or injury pays you a surprise visit. Get help. If you do find yourself seriously sick or injured, contacting the local consular office will ensure that you are given the best possible care. They can help you get in touch with friends and family at home and will also assist you in getting to an accredited and reliable hospital. Home remedies. “Packing a health kit can help travelers manage minor ailments while abroad,” says Diaz. This should include things like over-the-counter painkillers, anti-diarrhea meds, topical antibiotics, and cortisone cream. If in the worst-case scenario you find yourself in need of medication from a pharmacist who doesn’t speak a language you can understand, there is always the fallback universal language: charades. Staying Safe Be alert. To avoid theft, always keep one eye on your belongings and remember that distraction is a typical way for thieves to get the best of you. Wear hip packs or shoulder bags that stay close to your body in the front (as opposed to backpacks that someone could easily access). “It’s important that your bag is not easy to get into in an instant and that you have something that is close to your body. You want to be able to feel the bag at all times (versus a purse with long straps that hangs),” says Katie Malley, travel agent for STA Travel. You may also want to avoid wearing T-shirts from American colleges and sports teams or expensive jewelry that can scream “rich American tourist,” even if you are not one. Alarms. It can be easy to set up your own alarm system in a hotel room, which can come in handy when staying in rooms with simple latch locks or doors that don’t quite close. Things like the Door Guard (www.travelwithcare. com) serve as a portable deadbolt. It folds flat, can be carried in a purse, and provides an instant secure lock anywhere you need it. When all else fails, a simple bottle on your doorknob (to fall and break if someone tries to enter) can help you sleep a little more soundly.

from resorts, with no English speakers around to guide you, use creative methods of communication that don’t require words. Bring maps and drawings. “Usually, I have a map with my starting point circled so I can point to it and make a distressed grimace, which is universal for ‘I am lost’— no common language needed,” says Brown. She also suggests: “Keep a business card of the hotel you are staying at with you at all times. Make sure it’s written in that country’s language, not in English. Then you can just hand it to a taxi driver.” If you are staying at a hostel, campground, or home that does not have a business card, have someone write the address and phone number on a piece of paper in the local language before you leave to explore.

If emergency strikes… If you purchase travel insurance, it will come with a phone number that you can call collect anytime for help. “If you’re ever in a sticky situation, you can call that number collect from anywhere in the world. Memorize it, put it in your e-mail, slip it in your wallet/ passport/shoe—whatever,” Malley advises.

Ask for help. Taxi drivers, police, and local shopkeepers are excellent resources and have plenty to gain by being friendly and helpful. If you don’t have something indicating your home base, try to find a hotel—the bigger the better. Hotels used to housing international tourists may have English-speaking staff; if they don’t, they will certainly have books and maps of the area, which you can scan for familiar neighborhoods or landmarks. Brown says small shops are great places to go for help. “The owners are part of the community and will have an interest in treating you hospitably as well as making sure you are safe.”

Finding Your Way Sometimes the best way to explore a new city or country is simply to wander. Samantha Brown, travel expert and host of several Travel Channel television series, suggests that if you find yourself not knowing north from south and slums

Be bold. In the end, don’t fear the natives. Chances are you aren’t the first lost traveler who has wandered through the door. Samantha has found the locals of all continents to be friendly and willing to help out a traveler enjoying their country.

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Squash: The Superfood More than just seriously good for you, winter squash is the perfect replacement for all the soon-to-be-fading summer and fall vegetables. By Pamela Bond

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ative Americans once prized winter squash so much that they buried gourds beside their dead to make sure they had enough fuel for the afterlife. Who can blame them? Packed with a wealth of nutrients, squash has remained a healthy staple of fall and winter diets. The high levels of potassium and iron in winter squash can help lower blood pressure and aid workout recovery. The plethora of antioxidant vitamins A and C, as well as fiber, may help prevent lung cancer, arthritis, and heart disease. “You need different vegetables with different vitamins and minerals to cover your bases,” says Kerry Neville, MS, RD, American Dietetic Association spokesperson in Kirkland, Washington. For Neville, squash offers a nice change of pace from, say, carrots, which boast similar nutrients. But winter squash is far more than a seriously goodfor-you vegetable. Its impressive versatility, mildly sweet flavor, and bright orange hue make it a vibrant and fun addition to the fall and winter kitchen, when fresh options fade. “Winter squash feels ancient,” says Joanne Saltzman, founder and director of the School of Natural Cookery in Boulder, Colorado. “The body of these vegetables is usually generously fleshy, offering a great texture when cooked properly. The skins offer a bitter balance to the sweetness of the meat. And the buttery soft squash is easily spreadable on toast in place of butter or mixed with nut butter for a hearty open-faced sandwich.”

The Curcubitaceae family has many members, ranging from small to large and from dark green to tan. “Every year I see new varieties,” says Sarah Krieger, MPH, RD, American Dietetic Association spokesperson in St. Petersburg, Florida. “I suggest you experiment with different types you see.”

Its impressive versatility, mildly sweet flavor, and bright orange hue make winter squash a vibrant addition to the fall and winter kitchen. To help you with your taste testing, we asked the pros to share their favorite kinds and the tastiest ways to cook with them. No matter which variety you try first, select one at the market that is heaviest for its size and not hollow, has a hard rind to protect the flesh, and is free of bruises, blemishes, scabs, and soft spots. And go ahead and stock up—if you store your picks in a cool, dry place, they’ll last for a month or more.

Acorn and Delicata Squash

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Acorn Squash This grocery store regular is pine green with long ridges running up its sides to a yellowish top. The yellow-orange flesh becomes rich and creamy when cooked. “I use acorn the most,” says Neville. “It’s versatile and pretty.” Nutrient bonus: Acorn offers the most potassium (26 percent of daily needs for 1 cup) and vitamin B6 (20 percent of daily needs). Plus, you’ll get plenty of iron at 11 percent— second only to canned pumpkin. Best for: Stuffing. “But you must cook acorn squash fully before adding the stuffing,” says Saltzman. Try it: To make stuffed squash into a substantial and balanced meal, pierce an acorn squash with a fork or knife several times to vent steam. Microwave for 2 to 3 minutes until the squash begins to soften and becomes easier to cut. (The initial microwaving is optional.) Halve the squash and scoop out the inner seeds and the stringy flesh. Place cut sides down in a microwavable dish with 2 to 3 teaspoons water. Microwave covered for another 5 to 10 minutes, until fork-tender (or bake for 45 to 60 minutes at 400º F). Fill squash wells with a sauté of cooked wild rice mix (using only half the seasoning packet), chopped and peeled apple, and lean pork sausage. Sprinkle with Gruyere, and bake until the cheese melts.

Cutting a Squash Step 1: If peeling, use a paring knife or a serrated peeler to strip away the thick skin until you reach the flesh. Step 2: Use a sharp, sturdy knife to cut off the stem. Step 3: Stab the knife lengthwise (from stem end to the point) into the rind. Using a rubber mallet, gently hammer where the blade meets the handle, until the squash splits. Step 4: Use a spoon to scoop out the seeds and the stringy flesh. Step 5: Cook the squash: bake, roast, boil, microwave, or any way you like.

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Butternut Squash

Hubbard Squash Krieger’s “absolute favorite” for its intense flavor, hubbard squash looks like a grayish blue pumpkin with bumpy skin. Nutrient bonus: Although no winter squash can boast high protein counts, hubbard has the most (5 grams per cup) when compared with its peers. Best for: Roasting. “It’s better to roast hubbards than boil them because you’ll retain nutrients and deepen flavor,” says Krieger. Try it: For a hearty side dish to a main course of chicken or pork, peel and cube a hubbard into 2-inch pieces. Toss in a baking pan with other chopped vegetables, such as onions, carrots, and parsnips. Brush on olive oil. Season with salt, rosemary, garlic, and thyme—all to taste. Roast at 400º F for 30 to 45 minutes. Butternut Squash Choose butternut varieties with evenly pale peach skin, a round ball end, and a thick neck. Their flavor will remind you of sweet potatoes. Nutrient bonus: A cup of baked butternut squash has the mother load of vitamin C—52 percent of your daily needs. Plus, you’ll get 457 percent of your needed vitamin A. Best for: Sweet and savory soups, as well as roasting, baking, and spreading. “Butternut is the most versatile,” says Saltzman.

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Try it: Pierce one large squash several times and microwave for 2 to 3 minutes until it starts to soften (optional). Peel and cube. In a large roasting pan, toss squash with chopped onions, garlic, and tart apples. Season with chili powder and roast at 400º F for about 40 minutes. Transfer to a blender or food processor. Add 2 cups vegetable broth and purée until smooth. Transfer to a pot and thin with more stock or 1 cup evaporated skim milk. Season with salt and more chili powder. Reheat and serve.

Prep Tip To lessen preparation time for roasted squash dishes, look for precut fresh squash in the produce section of the grocery store. For soups, buy prepackaged cubed squash in the frozen-foods section. Source: Taming the Flame by Elizabeth Karmel (Wiley, 2005)

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full Best for: Roasting, baking, soups, spreads, or sauces—anything goes. “I treat them like any other squash,” says Saltzman, “but then I capture the seeds too—for soaking and roasting.” Try it: Create a roasted veggie–squash dish using cubed fresh pumpkin instead of cubed hubbards, as suggested. Or use canned pumpkin to concoct a fiber-filled smoothie: In a blender combine ½ cup sugar-free canned pumpkin, ½ cup nonfat plain yogurt, a pinch of pumpkin pie spice mix, a dash of vanilla extract, honey to taste, and a splash of orange juice or milk. Blend until smooth.

Sweet Dumpling Squash “This winter squash variety looks like acorn but has yellow and green stripes,” says Krieger. The taste? It’s the sweetest and most buttery of them all. Sweet dumplings range in size from apple- to cantaloupe-sized. Nutrient bonus: Sweet dumpling shares acorn’s plentiful nutrients but has even more vitamin A. Best for: Stuffing. “The sweet dumpling has a thick, difficult-to-remove, difficult-to-eat skin for the ratio of sweet, soft meat on the inside,” says Saltzman, “but this makes them valuable as containers for, say, a refried grain dish, a sauce, or beans.” Try it: Although Saltzman doesn’t sweeten her squash, Neville loves this simple, traditional preparation: Carefully halve a sweet dumpling and scoop out the seeds and the stringy flesh (you can preheat the squash in the microwave to soften the skin before slicing). Place cut sides down in a baking dish. Add 2 to 3 teaspoons of water and cook at 400º F for 45 to 60 minutes, until fork-tender. Top with butter, brown sugar, and a pinch of cinnamon.

Leigh Beisch / StockFood Creative / Getty images

Pumpkins

Spaghetti Squash Yellow or cream in color on the outside, this elongated squash is filled with sweet yellow spaghetti-like strands. Nutrient bonus: Baked spaghetti squash is as low in calories (42 per cup) and carbs (10 per cup) as pumpkin, but it’s not as rich in vitamins A and C as the darker-flesh winter squash types. Best for: A low-carb pasta replacement. Try it: Pierce several times to vent steam and microwave for 2 minutes (optional). Halve lengthwise and scrape out seeds and pulp. Place cut sides down in a microwaveable dish. Add a sprinkle of water, cover, and cook for 6 to 10 minutes more (or bake for 30 to 40 minutes at 375º F). After it cools a bit, use a fork to gently scrape out the stringy flesh and toss with your favorite marinara sauce and fresh Parmesan cheese.

Pumpkin Sugar pumpkins are smaller (about 1 to 2 pounds each) than decorative jack-o’-lantern types and are usually sweeter and meatier. And, surprisingly, canned pumpkin may be even better than fresh: “I like canned pumpkin because it’s more condensed and so has more nutrition,” says Krieger. Nutrient bonus: A cup of canned pumpkin fills a whopping 763 percent of your daily vitamin A needs and 20 percent of your iron.

Color Cue You can tell how much vitamin A squash varieties have by the color of the flesh: the darker the orange, the more nutrients it contains. Spaghetti Squash

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WomansMagazineJuly2008.indd 1

7/28/08 11:35:10 AM

fresh from the field

Get Ready . . . Get Set . . . It’s your world, runners. Here’s the stuff to inhabit it in.

Celin Serbo / Aurora Photos

By Karina Evertsen and Corrynn Cochran

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TRAIL Montrail Streak Tear up or down anything in these puppies. The Streak is a refreshing addition to the number of trail shoes on the market. The upper is so lightweight you can feel the air circulating through your feet, keeping them cool. Make no mistake: it has durable toe protection for unexpected rocks and roots as well as a supportive structure to keep your feet in place. The sticky sole works perfectly in varied conditions. If you are into speed, this is your go-to shoe of the season. $90. www.montrail.com La Sportiva Imogene The Imogene can take what the trail dishes out. The orthotic insole provides an ultracomfortable fit, and the narrow heel well keeps your foot secure. It offers maximum arch support, and the mesh upper is cushy and breathable. If this shoe had a middle name, it would be traction! The rubber sole and the reinforced rubber toe prevent slippage just about anywhere. $95. www.sportiva.com Saucony ProGrid Xodus The Xodus is surprisingly light and has all the bells and whistles you’d expect from a die-hard running shoe. The outsole grips scree and clings to sloping rock surfaces extremely well, and the arch construction keeps the foot stable on variable terrain. It feels and fits every bit like a Saucony road shoe that left the asphalt to head on a new adventure. $100. www.saucony.com New Balance 840 Consider the 840 akin to trail running in comfy, hip, lightweight slippers. These featherweight shoes glide over terrain. For runners who like to feel the surface beneath their feet, the 840 allows you to feel the trail without tumbling down it. You can attribute this to the nubby rubber outsole that really sticks to the path. One caveat: stick to short, fast runs and select a beefier model for more-epic runs. $80. www.newbalance.com Adidas Supernova Riot The Supernova is a light trail shoe, but to our surprise it offers a great amount of stability when running on uneven surfaces. Adidas has taken great care in designing this shoe to fit like a glove and deliver ultimate heel cushioning when running on rough trails. Our testers found that this shoe actually thrusts them forward, making them feel like they could run farther and longer than they thought they could. $95. www.shopadidas.com Brooks Cascadia 3 Green means go, and the Cascadia 3 will let you do just that on the trail. It is one of the better choices for neutral runners who are looking to get out on smooth to technical terrain. We can attest to its breathable mesh upper’s ability to shed water and quickly dry in the event you hit wet conditions. The outer and midsole give a stable and cushy ride and grip to whatever obstacles are underfoot. This is a trail shoe that will go the distance with you. $95. www.brooksrunning.com

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ROAD Saucony ProGrid Hurricane 10 Wow best describes the Hurricane. This shoe cradles your foot, providing excellent arch support and cushion. Those runners who have little to no arch of the foot will love the all-around stability and comfort. This shoe is incredibly durable and absorbs the shock of the road like nobody’s business. $130. www.saucony.com Avia Avi-Lite II A lightweight road shoe perfect for a quick 4 miles or less, the Avi-Lite provides amazing cushion and support for the heel. The breathable mesh on top of the shoe keeps your feet nice and cool. This is a great shoe for minimalist runners who like to feel the road beneath their feet and not be weighed down. $100. www.avia.com New Balance 805 We can’t say enough good things about the 805. It is extremely breathable and lightweight. If you are prone to rolling your ankles, you’ll be protected in this shoe. The stability is sublime, as is the wide toe box and durable sole. The design of the tread and the structure of the bottom of the shoe propel you forward as you run. We love the nontraditional hourglass-shaped shoelaces that never slip or come untied. You’ll be setting the pace in no time. $85. www.newbalance.com

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1 Adidas Adilibria Shield Sunglasses Yes, they are big; yes, they look a little Hollywood, but, believe it or not . . . they’re great for running—even if it isn’t from the paparazzi. The Adilibria’s light weight keep them in place, and their large lenses give effective coverage and sun protection. $125. www.shopadidas.com 2 Helly Hansen Women’s Sleeveless Tee Hit the road running in this lightweight tank. The polypropylene material is quick drying and anti-bacterial as well as nonallergenic. Contoured to fit the female form, it feels great when you want the comfort of running in a sports bra but the coverage of a tank. $28. www.hellyhansen.com

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3 North Face Hydrogen Jacket Don’t leave home without the Hydrogen Jacket. Weighing in at 2.6 ounces, it’s the perfect backup in the event you need protection but don’t want to carry the bulk. The lightweight, barely there feel of the nylon fabric blocks the wind and repels moisture. A side pocket holds your essentials. Whether you are going for a run, a hike, or a climb, it’s a necessity you won’t want to leave behind. $99. www.thenorthface.com 4 Lululemon Ultra-Short These versatile running shorts are so comfortable you will want to wear them for everything! Lululemon’s signature fabric combines nylon with spandex to create stretchy, supersoft material that wicks moisture away. The mesh liner goes unnoticed, and the seams are flat to prevent chafing. A built-in pocket will keep your necessities safe. $52. www.lululemon.com

CW-X Xtra Support Bra Here’s a sports bra perfect for whatever activity you can throw at it. The CW-X provides maximum support around the ribs and through the chest so the shoulders aren’t left to carry the weight like other bras are prone to do. For those in the D size range, this bra is a sure fit. $57. www.cw-x.com 5

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6 Moving Comfort Alexis Bra The Alexis bra is our number one pick when it comes to great support and style for the gals out there in the A and B categories. It provides a comfortable fit and shape with quick-drying fabric designed to wick moisture away from the skin. Our favorite feature is the added cushion in the cups that won’t expose a thing should you find yourself working out in cooler temperatures. $36. www.movingcomfort.com 7 Moving Comfort Endurance Tight When conditions are less than perfect, the Endurance Tight will give you the added layer you are looking for on cool-weather jogs. The best part: these polyester Lycra tights are made to last. A wide elastic waistband and a dual drawstring hold them up for miles. $50. www.movingcomfort.com

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Go!

Travel gear cool enough to inspire you to plan that next trip

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Patagonia Margot Dress The Margot is as comfortable as wearing jeans and a T-shirt, with a touch more sass. Made from organic cotton and spandex, it moves with you, providing optimum comfort in nearly any situation. The three-quarter-length sleeves make it perfect for fall, and the cut hits just above the knee. It’s a must-have in the suitcase. $65. www.patagonia.com

4 Mission Playground Flirt Skirt Packing a skirt is essential, and the Flirt will travel well. It packs up nicely without leaving wrinkles behind. The comfortable and stretchy merino wool provides a flattering fit. The hem falls below the knee with an asymmetrical cut, and a cute tie belt accentuates the stylish look. $90. www.missionplayground.com

Orage Sachari Pant Pack these pants and you’ll cover all your bases. The Sachari can truly be dressed up or down, depending on your mood. With a slim cut and a low-rise waist, these five-pocket capris are universally flattering, while the water-repellent stretch twill makes them supercomfortable. $75. www.orage.com

5 Patagonia Sugar & Spice Everything nice is packed into these versatile shoes. Wear the soft leather uppers alone for a comfy house shoe or combine with the sturdy latex outsoles for trekking around town. A fastener at the heel secures the upper to the outsole. True to Patagonia form, the Sugar & Spice is made of natural latex and recycled EVA and plastic. $120. www.patagonia.com

3 Smith Optics Amelia Sunglasses Get ready to travel in style. These aviator-inspired shades will keep you looking good on the go. The lenses are slightly curved to optimize clarity, and the metal frames come in four color options. To boot, the shades are backed by Smith’s lifetime warranty. $90; polarized $119. www.smithoptics.com

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1 Eagle Creek Take 2 ORV Trunk 28 This durable roller fits so many purposes it can take whatever kind of packing you require. Although it serves as one suitcase, it can split into two pieces by just unzipping the top from the bottom. Separate your gear by putting the larger, heavier items in the bottom and your clothing in the top for easy access. The detachable gear compartment acts as an overnight bag and features collapsible dividers for optimum organization. $320. www.eaglecreek.com 2 North Face Flyweight Tote Don’t travel without this bag. The compressible nylon can handle almost anything, and it zips up into its own little pouch (which is then turned into a pocket when in use) for easy packing. Use it as a grocery bag or a beach tote or to bring home treasures. $49. www.thenorthface.com

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3 Dakine Diva Packing your toiletries just got a whole lot easier with the Diva. The main compartment holds full-sized shampoo bottles with a clear plastic liner that prevents leaks from spreading throughout the whole bag. A drop-down panel features four zippered mesh pockets for the rest of the products you just can’t leave home without. $25. www.dakine.com 4 Haiku Ultimate Messenger Bag This is a great bag for all your essentials, whether you’re going to and from work or flying across the country. There are plenty of storage pockets, including a padded sleeve for your laptop. The washable vinyl readily withstands wear and tear, and the reinforced rubber bottom protects from scuffing and keeps the bag upright when you set it down. The contrasting colors and unique stitching add style to all that function. $99. www.haikubags.com

Z E U S c a m e t o H E RA a s a b i r d

Pe a c o ck : p r o t e c t o r, t h e m a ny e ye s o f ARGUS

R a i n b o w : I R I S w a s t h e m e s s e n g e r o f H E RA

I AM H E RA \ ( Ha i r-a ) , I A M a G r E E k G o D D Es s, t H E P R OT E C T O R oF � woMEn. I a M t� H E FAC E o F� t H E H E R A FO U N DAT I O N . I aM StanDING UP Fo r woMEn / GIRLS AND t H� Eir FaMiLiEs t o F I n D a C U r E Fo�r o V a r i a n C a n C E r Knowledge is power! The most common symptoms are: Bloating, pelvic or abdominal pain, difficulty eating or feeling full fast and urinary symptoms (urgency or frequency). Other symptoms can include: Indigestion, back pain, bowel problems, abnormal bleeding or unusual fatigue. If ovarian cancer is suspected, see a gyn/oncologist. Pap smears only screen for cervical cancer.

Sept. is Ovarian Cancer Awareness Month. HERA Sept. events: Montrail Run Like a Girl, Sept. 7, 08 , Boston, MA HERA Climb4Life, Sept. 18-21, 08, Salt Lake City, UT Mountain’s Edge Cactus Cup, Sept. 19-21 , 08 , Las Vegas, NV USA CRITS Finals, Sept. 25 , 08 , Las Vegas, NV For more information go to www.herafoundation.org

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2 1 Magellan Maestro 5310 Taking a road trip? Getting directions just got a whole lot easier with the Maestro portable GPS navigation system. Maps and routes are at your fingertips, and an information bar shows how many miles to go until you arrive at your destination. The large 5-inch screen is easy to read and looks pretty snazzy on your dash. It even allows AAA members to access information on restaurants and motels or get roadside assistance. Who could ask for more? $500. www.magellangps.com 2 Sony DVD 810 Handycam Camcorder Document your next vacation like a pro. The Sony DVD 810 Handycam lets you record right onto a disc, so you can easily pop it into your DVD player. There is also 8 gigabytes of internal memory as well as the option to record onto a removable memory stick. Superior lens quality and touchscreen controls will have you making movies in no time. $450. www.sony.com

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3 Canon PowerShot G9 So much more than the average point-and-shoot, the G9 looks like an old-school film camera but has the most updated technology, with manual controls you won’t find on the average compact digital camera. Features include an image stabilizer, 12.1 megapixels that deliver high-quality photographs, and a 3-inch LCD screen. It’s the closest you can come to having a single lens reflex without the bulk but still delivers high-quality images. A 6x optical zoom lens expands photo options and . . . it captures video too! $455. www.amazon.com 4 Mountainsmith Cyber II Camera Bag This handy padded pouch comes in three sizes and is designed to keep your camera safe. A detachable strap and Velcro belt attachment make it easy to take with you anywhere. An inner pocket keeps your memory cards secure. To top it off, it is made from recycled plastic. If you’re matching this up with the Canon PowerShot G9, the large size will do the trick. $13, $15, and $22. www.mountainsmith.com

Women’s Adventure, Issue 5, September/October 2008, is published six times a year for $17.95 per year by Big Earth Publishing, 1722 14th Street, Suite 180, Boulder, CO 80302-7423. Periodicals postage pending at Boulder, CO. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Women’s Adventure, PO Box 408, Mount Morris, IL 61054-0408.

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musings

“The great thing in this world is not so much where you stand, as in what direction you are moving.” —Oliver Wendell Holmes (1809–1894)

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I am a mother.

I am running so my daughter doesn’t have to. I am ... the CURE.

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Sign up today for the Komen Denver Race for the Cure® — the biggest 5K run/walk in Colorado — and help raise funds for local breast cancer programs. Register at www.komendenver.org and race for the CURE. Call 303.576.8705 for more information. Local Presenting Sponsor Premier Sponsors Presenting Media Sponsors Diamond Sponsors Photography courtesy of Sandy Puc’ Expressions. Graphic design courtesy of Barlow Advertising & Design, Inc.

editorial

The Placebo Effect By Michelle Theall

ometimes my legs don’t work right. My brain sends signals it shouldn’t, or it doesn’t send them at all. Always my body feels like I live above a movie theater where the vibrating subwoofer never ceases. Having multiple sclerosis (MS) keeps me on my toes, quite literally. The best medicine I’ve found for staving off the impact of this disease has been activity, specifically tennis and basketball. The quick eye/hand, stop/start movements of both ball sports make my brain work in ways it doesn’t when I run or sit at a desk. In 2003 when I was diagnosed, I started the thrice-weekly injections of Rebif, one of the FDA-approved drugs to slow the progression

Hope doesn’t change the results of an MRI or a blood test or retinal images. of MS. My liver protested, which was normal for this drug, I was told. When I developed small strokes in my eyes, I stopped taking it. It was a personal decision, and, yes, I’m perhaps playing Russian roulette with my health. But five years later I can still manage to run 5 miles and rock-climb and snowboard and work. We want a quick fix. America is a pill-popping nation. The pharmaceutical industry is worth in excess of 350 billion dollars. Roughly 1300 lobbyists work Washington, D.C., to keep the big pharma machine running. Still, we never really needed Nancy Reagan to tell us that drugs are also dangerous, powerful, and sometimes lethal. Even legal and prescribed, they must be used judiciously and with realistic expectations. Enter Obecalp (placebo spelled backward) for children. Obecalp is an over-the-counter sugar pill marketed toward moms. In fact, a mom named Jennifer Buettner invented it this year. If your child complains about a nonexistent tummy ailment, you can give her Obecalp. But how will you know if she’s really sick? Jennifer claims that moms just know. Even most doctors will tell you that placebos do have some power. So what’s wrong with tricking our 96 Women’s j Adventure

children into believing they are being given medicine if it makes them feel better? Isn’t that more innocuous than overprescribed and often unwarranted doses of antibiotics? Obecalp scares me because it teaches our kids that a little pill can fix everything. It’s a convenient white lie for a parent up in the middle of the night with a crying child. Children need to learn to listen to their bodies. Every ache and pain in life doesn’t need medical care, but Obecalp-placated kids won’t know that. Perhaps they’ll never know the difference between being seriously ill and having a common cold. Obecalp grants way too much power to the medical and pharmaceutical industries, implying that whatever ails us can be diagnosed, fixed, and treated. If I had been raised an Obecalp kid, I might not have thought there was anything I could do to improve my health as an adult. I might not have altered my diet or started playing basketball or worked at lowering my stress. I might have continued to take a drug that my body was telling me was doing me more harm than good. I wanted to believe that a drug could cure my disease and ease some of my MS symptoms. But hope doesn’t change the results of an MRI or a blood test or retinal images. And I didn’t need a medical degree to know this. When a child says she doesn’t feel well—when in fact she’s fine—she’s saying that she wants her mom’s attention. That’s the real diagnosis. The whining is just a symptom. No pill can replace Mom. Hugs and kisses are the only placebos our children need.