The Good Life

Custom Jewelry

Creating Unique Pieces of Beauty

By Angella A. Arndt

Another holiday season is fast approaching! Seasonal foods,

traditions, and festivities welcome this magical time of year. Many of us are shopping for that perfect gift for someone special. The gift that never goes out of season is jewelry—and custom jewelry can be a thoughtful and distinctive gift for both men and women.

Custom jewelry sends a message. It’s personal. It’s unique. It’s a gift that says you pay attention and you care. Whether it’s a necklace, bracelet, earrings, or ring, a gift of custom jewelry is sure to be appreciated.

There are some things to consider before you visit the jeweler. First, think about the recipient of your gift. What kind of jewelry does he or she typically wear? Statement pendants or delicate chains? Brightly colored gemstones or understated metals? You can also take a cue from your recipient’s clothing style—classic, trendy, vintage, or whimsical? Second, figure out your budget for this gift. Setting a budget will help you make design decisions and help ensure that you don’t spend more than you planned. Once you have an idea in mind and have decided on your budget, it’s time to get into the details of the piece. Current jewelry trends include pearls, chains, charms, hoops, spider-inspired pieces, stars, button earrings, and, of course, diamonds.

When thinking about jewelry, the first thing that usually springs to mind is the gemstone, but the metal that holds it together is just as important. Silver, gold, and platinum are the most commonly used metals. Silver is the most budgetfriendly of the three, but it scratches and oxidizes if worn regularly over a long period of time. Gold is generally mixed with other metals for strength, which means that gold varies in hardness and scratch resistance. Higher karat golds are softer. Platinum is beautiful and durable, although it will wear and scratch over time.

Stainless steel, titanium, cobalt, and tungsten are modern, durable metals that are gaining ground, particularly in men’s jewelry. Stainless steel’s affordability, strength, and durability make it a popular option. Titanium and tungsten are very strong metals, highly resistant to scratching but difficult (or even impossible) to resize. Cobalt is durable and relatively scratch-resistant. Platinum, titanium, and cobalt are hypoallergenic, making them good options for individuals with skin sensitivities. (If your gift is to be a surprise, you’ll need to find out beforehand if your recipient has any sensitivities to metals.)

Historically, gemstones were categorized as precious and semi-precious. Precious stones included diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. All other gems were considered semi-precious. These classifications seem to imply that precious stones are more valuable than semi-precious stones, but that’s not necessarily the case. Semi-precious stones are generally softer (more susceptible to scratching or chipping) and more abundant than precious stones. You should choose a gemstone based on its appeal, its intended use, and, of course, your budget.

Color, clarity, cut, and carat weight (the 4 Cs) are factors used to grade diamond quality. Diamonds are graded on a color scale from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow/brown). Colorless diamonds are rarer and, therefore, more expensive. Clarity refers to the inclusions (internal features) and blemishes (surface irregularities) of a diamond, ranging from flawless to included. Flawless diamonds are extremely rare and costly. Cut refers to a diamond’s proportion, symmetry, and polish, all of which impact its ability to transmit light and sparkle. Cut grades range from excellent to poor. Carat weight refers to a diamond’s weight, with larger diamonds being more expensive. However, two diamonds with the same carat weight may vary greatly in price because of differences in the color, clarity, or cut. All four factors determine a diamond’s final grade.

Since custom jewelry is a significant investment, it’s important to choose a professionally trained, certified jeweler. Visit jewelers with well-established, good local reputations. (You can start by asking family or friends for recommendations.) When you’re speaking with custom jewelers, take note of how you feel—do they seem knowledgeable and trustworthy? Do they listen to you and appear interested in your needs? You’ll also want some general information about the business. How do they handle diamond certification and appraisals? Do they have a reasonable return policy? Do they offer a warranty?

Of course, commissioning a custom piece takes longer than buying something out of the case. You can expect the process to take one to three months, depending on the complexity of the piece. Be sure you understand the details of the process before you begin.

Custom jewelry is a personal gift—a wearable work of art that is sure to be cherished. Visit a jeweler today to bring your style to life or to celebrate someone you love.

Sources for this article included: americangemsociety.org, gia.edu, gemsociety.org, and jewelers.org.