Fresh Concept

Anti-Aging Potions and Procedures

Wrinkle Reduction for a Smoother You!

By Janette Calabro

There’s an old saying that age doesn’t bring wisdom—it just brings wrinkles. The truth is that age usually brings both, but age isn’t the only contributor to what some people lovingly call “character lines.” Let’s look at what causes wrinkles, who is most susceptible, and what we can do about it.

As we get older, the middle layer of our skin, the dermis, starts to thin out. All of the elastin and collagen that makes our skin firm gets weaker, retaining less moisture than when we were younger. Environmental factors play a role in wrinkles, too. Too much ultraviolet radiation from the sun (or tanning beds!) causes skin to age prematurely. Being dehydrated is problematic, too, since the dermis is already losing moisture. Smoking also adds creases and wrinkles, as does exposing your skin to polluted air. If you’re expressive with your face when you talk, smile, and emote, then all of those repeated facial movements put you at a higher risk for wrinkled skin (not that you should let wrinkles stop you from smiling!).

Your skin type itself plays a role in how susceptible you are to wrinkling. People with darker skin have more melatonin to combat the sun’s damaging rays. All other things being equal, people with lighter skin tend to have more wrinkles than similarly aged people with darker skin. (Note that dermatologists advise people of all skin tones to wear sunblock.) As I mentioned above, hydration counts when it comes to wrinkles! That means that oily skin may make you prone to breakouts but will also ward off wrinkles because the oils keep skin moist.

Regardless of skin type, the newest wrinkle reduction creams keep getting better. Moisturizing skin is not only good for wrinkle prevention; it can also make existing wrinkles look less severe. What should you look for in a face cream? Ingredients matter! If your goal is to fight free radicals (pollutants like smog, dust, and cigarette smoke) that cause damage to skin’s DNA, choose a formula with antioxidants, which work to protect skin from those aggressors. Antioxidants can even repair damage already done. Look for creams, serums, toners, and lotions with vitamins C, E, and A. Remember that these vitamins should be part of a healthy diet in addition to being topically applied.

Collagen is a fibrous, supportive protein in our bones, ligaments, and skin. It gives our skin elasticity, strength, and the ability to bounce back. As we age, our bodies produce less collagen; this deficit contributes to sagging and wrinkles. Potions with collagen can help by lifting and smoothing the skin. Although these solutions are not permanent, keeping skin sufficiently moisturized does have a cumulative effect against wrinkling.

Exfoliation ingredients are great in a wrinkle cream, and the gold standard for many dermatologists is retinoid, a form of vitamin A. Simply put, retinol formulas are weaker versions of retinoid that are available over the counter. Because the drugstore varieties contain a lower concentration of retinoid, they are less irritating to the skin but take longer to create the effects we’re looking for. Retinols help soften wrinkles, help fade spots, and help the skin produce more collagen for smoother, lifted skin. Look for microdermabrasion scrubs and different strengths of retinols while shopping. Start slow to gauge how your skin responds. For those who want strong results faster, check with your dermatologist for a prescription-strength retinoid.

Other types of exfoliation for smoothing out lines contain alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) or beta hydroxy acid (BHA), both of which help generate new cells and plump skin. AHAs are water-soluble acids, usually made from fruit sugars, to help peel away the skin’s damaged surface. BHAs are great for acne-prone skin because they penetrate deeper into the skin, dissolving oils and smoothing out fine wrinkles. Salicylic acid is also a great addition to speed the peeling process; this helps fight both acne and wrinkles.

Hyaluronic acid is a big hitter for fighting wrinkles. This acid is a clear, gooey substance naturally produced by the body. Found in skin and connective tissues, it keeps your tissues well lubricated. You can find it in a supplement, but most people use topical serums. Almost half of the hyaluronic acid in the body is present in your skin, where it binds to water, helping to retain moisture.

Since anti-aging and wrinkle creams work on multiple levels, they can multitask with a combination of ingredients. You might see improvement in a few days, or after a baseline rule of four to six weeks, but deeper changes might take up to six months to come to fruition. Try taking before and after pictures to see if you can tell the difference after treatment. Fighting wrinkles doesn’t come down to one magic potion. Be sure to preserve and protect your skin, since it’s easier to prevent wrinkles than get rid of them.

If creams and lotions aren’t producing the wrinkle-fighting results you desire, it might be time to look at wrinkle reduction procedures like resurfacing or injectables.

Ultrasound energy is unique in that it can tighten skin and diminish wrinkles. Check with your favorite medical spa or dermatologist’s office for this process, known commercially as Ultherapy. Focused energy is deposited deep below the skin’s surface to stimulate new collagen growth, plumping skin and increasing its elasticity. This procedure is non-invasive, takes about 90 minutes, and is typically done on the brow, neck, and chin. Radiofrequency is similar but uses heat energy instead of ultrasound energy.

Chemical peels can resurface skin for a fresh, dewy look. To erase deeper wrinkles, try laser resurfacing, including the commercially known Fraxel. Laser resurfacing is safe and minimally invasive, treating fine lines and wrinkles on the face, neck, chest, and even hands. It removes the top layer of skin—all of those dull, dead skin cells—to leave you with a healthy glow. The gentle laser essentially creates micro-injuries, which promotes cell turnover and jumpstarts your skin’s natural healing process. You should expect to see continued improvement during the three to six months after the procedure.

Every time we squint, frown, laugh, or smile, we use our facial muscles. Those repetitive expressions are the stuff of life, but they also create crow’s feet and brow furrows between our eyes—a look that makes us seem tired and older. That’s where Botox and her cousin, Dysport, can help. Both are made from a purified version of the botulinum toxin. When injected into frown lines, they block the signals that tell the facial muscles to contract. The result? Softer wrinkles around the forehead, eyes, and eyebrows. Average results last about four months. The Mayo Clinic recommends that Botox injections be performed by an experienced doctor.

According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, dermal fillers continue to top the list for non-surgical treatment of wrinkles. Volume-boosting injectables aren’t going anywhere, and they keep getting better every year.

Juvéderm Voluma was FDA-approved for chin enhancements this year, marking the first time a filler has been approved outside of the lip and cheek areas. Juvéderm, a hyaluronic acid, adds volume for a youthful look. Another popular filler, Restylane, is made from hyaluronic acid, a substance naturally produced in the body. We already know the benefits of topical hyaluronic acid. As a filler, Restylane can immediately correct mild to moderate wrinkles around the mouth, eyes, and even the backs of your hands. Today’s fillers have fewer chemical modifications than in the past, which means a purer hyaluronic acid that more closely mimics your body’s natural acid.

A combination procedure called a “liquid face lift” gets good results without surgery. The procedure is customizable, relying on a combination of dermal fillers and neuromodulators like Botox in just the right quantities.

Over time, the cumulative effects of our lifestyle choices, along with sun exposure and simply the passage of time, can make us look…well, old. When you look in the mirror and decide it’s time to turn back the clock, improve your self-esteem, and get on with your life, make a plan with your med spa doc, plastic surgeon, or dermatologist for a brighter and better you. The topical creams, dermal fillers, and noninvasive surfacing procedures that science and medicine have brought us can help brighten, tighten, and erase those wrinkles.

Sources for this article included: mayoclinic.org, healthline. com, and realsimple.com.