Wool trade 2013

Wool TRADE Speciality Fibres & Yarns

| Reports from wool producing countries

| Wool - a niche fibre? | Campaign for Wool five years on

| British wool yarn latest trends

| Roadmap to cleaner wool dyeing from Huntsman

| Wool in bedding products | Mohair prices surge ahead | China looking to new markets GLOBAL WOOL TRADE DIRECTORY 2013-14

2 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL

WTI

FROM THE EDITOR

Acknowledgements:

American Sheep Association

Ass. Nazionale del Commercio Laniero (Italy) China Australia Wool Quality Joint Working Group Australian Wool Testing Authority British Wool Marketing Board Campaign for Wool (CfW) Canadian Wool Co-Operative Cape Wools South Africa

Dear Reader

China Wool Textile Association International Wool Textile Organisation Mohair South Africa Nanjing Wool Market New Zealand Wool Testing Authority SGS Wool Testing Authority Wool Testing Authority Europe Wool Testing Bureau of South Africa Contributors: Roberto Cardellino Bridgette Kelly Robert Wang

Welcome to WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013/14.

In this issue we bring you interviews with industry participants, feature articles, opinion pieces, and reports from all major wool producing countries. You will see many familiar faces on these pages - read about the companies you do business with and read about the companies you may be interested in doing business with tomorrow.

This publication will enable you to network with existing and new business partners worldwide from the comfort of your own office!

We cover topics on greasy, carbonised and scoured wool, and

Art & Design:

wooltop. We feature reports on speciality fibre such as mohair, and

Ely Torres

the innovative use of wool in bedding products, and of course the

Polyprint Pty Ltd

latest developments in woollen yarn, textile machinery and wool

Melbourne, Australia

testing.

Published by: International Trade Publications

There is a lot to read, so please keep this copy handy and browse through it at your leisure over the coming months.

PO Box 11, Caulfield South

We hope that these pages will help you to link with old friends and

Melbourne, Victoria 3162

new, and that they will help you to access the best fibre for your

AUSTRALIA

needs.

Tel. 61 3 9533 0627 Fax 61 3 9533 0727

We wish you happy reading and thank the many contributors that

E mail info@woolnews.net

have helped us to provide such a diverse read.

Web www.woolnews.net Editor: Victor Chesky

Victor Chesky Editor Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 1

IN THIS ISSUE

ContentS Industry Highlights 8 Wool - a niche fibre?

12 An hour with Philip Stucken 16 Lempriere - forges new paths 18 Manos del Uruguay - a handmade story 22 Campaign for Wool: Five Years Since First Seeds Sown 23 IWTO: Strengthening Sustainable Claims 24 Chargeurs Group responds to changing market conditions 25 Woolmark launches a new brand – ‘Woolmark Nurture’ Special Reports 46 Woolen Yarn - Wool dyeing - roadmap to cleaner future 105 Mohair - surges ahead as fibre of choice 120 Logistics & storage - Secure logistics from Kes Distri in Germany 139 Wool in Bedding - increasing interest from consumers 144 Textile Machinery - latest technology from NSC, Tecomeccanica, Sant Andrea Novara, Valvan, and Gualchierani 156 Wool Testing - latest in wool certification from Australia, NZ, South Africa and Europe

Countries Reports 15 Argentina - China continues as main wool buyer 26 USA - Wool Producers: Stewards of Land and Sheep 30 UK - wool selling season - volatile & unpredictable 53 NEW ZEALAND - offering the best in NZ wool 68 CHINA - wool textile industry navigating the challenges 76 AUSTRALIA - China Australia Wool Quality Joint Working Group - working for common good 94 MALAYSIA - Compass Wool takes up position in commission scouring 97 SOUTH AFRICA - Wool production increases, clean yields have improved substantially 110 HUNGARY - increasing interest from Europe 112 GEORGIA - a logical new choice in wool supplies 114 GERMANY - offering the best in European wool 122 RUSSIA - Slavyane Wool -looking beyond other traditional consuming markets 124 TURKEY - wool exporters focus on Europe 128 SPAIN - Lanas Cuesta - expanding supply and delivery 130 ITALY - Associazione Nazionale Del Commercio Laniero launches “The world of animal fibres” book 136 INDIA - wool tops used by noted brands beyond its shores 138 CANADA - more wool buyers choose Canadian Wool 168 URUGUAY - 2013-14 season - expects slight increment in wool production 6 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

12

68

105 Front cover photo: Photo commissioned by Campaign for Wool.

Photographer - Chris Everard. Wool House - a Campaign for Wool interiors event. Product from Willer, Studio Claudy Jongstra, Designers Guild, Roger Oates, Rowan Yarns.

143 years of Wool Knowledge Quality Reliability Service Experience

Supplying quality wool to apparel and bedding markets Producing the highest quality scoured and carbonised wool

All products APEO free and OekoTex certified

Rectified Top This top is perfect for sliverknitters, allowing them to make high quality products with minimal waste and high density fabric.

All Wool processed in Michell owned factories in Australia and China

Mycraloft - the superior high loft bedding wool For more information Tel: +61 8 82094400 Email: michell@michell.com.au

Loose Wool Super Wash for the Bedding market

Felt Wool This product is the cleanest wool available and great for high end felts with virtually no contaminents.

michellwool.com

INDUSTRY

Wool - a niche fibre?

by Victor Chesky

2013/14 season is expected to be another season of tight wool supply.

Main wool producing countries including Australia, China, New Zealand and Argentina are all expected to produce less wool. Only India is expected to see a rise in wool production. Italy is predicted to show a 1% drop in volume to 1.1 million kgs clean for 2013 - 14. Uruguay and Mongolia will see a small increase in production and with India’s bigger clip, this will balance out the falls in other countries.

T

his latest data was presented to IWTO Congress in Biella by Chris Wilcox Chairman of IWTO Market Intelligence Committee.

This data shows Australia retaining its position as the world’s biggest wool producer, with a predicted 245 million kg (clean) in 2013 -14 down 1.4% from this year’s production of 249 million kg. China’s production is expected to fall 1% to 167 million kgs, while New Zealand’s drought will mean production could slip 5% to 121 million kg. Mr Wilcox said that tough seasonal conditions from Mkg clean

2012e

2013f

spring to autumn in Australia and New Zealand, along with seasonal woes in China would push production down. The drop in production in Argentina was due to a swing from wool to growing crops.

The short-term outlook suggests wool production would increase by 2%. But, Mr Wilcox predicts that wool production will fall in 2013-14 due to poor seasonal conditions in Australia, New Zealand and the UK and farmers sell-offs.

The drop in demand in 2012 was due to lower economic

% change

2014f

% change

Australia

243

249

+2.5%

245

-1.4%

China

165

169

+2.5%

167

-1.0%

New Zealand

123

127

+2.7%

121

-5.0%

India

34

35

+2.3%

36

+2.3%

Argentina

29

27

-6.4%

26

-3.0%

South Africa

27

29

+6%

28

-1.9%

Uruguay

24

24

+2.5%

25

+2.7%

UK

23

25

+5.9%

23

-5.6%

Mongolia

13

14

+7.3%

15

+4.0%

USA

8

7

-1.8%

7

-2.4%

Brazil

8

8

+4.5%

7

-8.7%

Others

400

401

+0.3%

401

+0.0%

Global

1,097

1,115

+1.7%

1,102

-1.2%

NCWSBA - IWTO note: 2012=2011/12 for Australia, NZ, Uruguay, Argentina, South Africa and Brazil.

8 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

growth in all major consuming countries. A weak consumer confidence resulted in lower demand for clothing at retail level. Interior textile retail sales did slightly better.

IWTO business conditions survey showed that conditions were tough, particularly in early stage processing and garment making.

‘Prospects are for a slow improvement in economic conditions by the end of 2013, which expectations of a moderate improvement in wool textile conditions and raw wool demand by the year’s end and first half of 2014,’ says Mr Wilcox.

AWI Group Manager, Market Intelligence and Reporting, Dr Paul Swan identified major growth opportunities for wool at retail, both by country and product sector.

In his presentation, Challenges & Opportunities: Strategic Wool Market outlook, Dr Swan pointed out that wool is increasingly becoming a rare noble fibre and that wool consumption patterns will change in coming decades. ‘This changing world of wool will offer an incredible opportunity that it is hoped will not be missed’, says Dr Swan.

Dr Swan believes that wool volume share in global fibre consumption will inevitably drop to 1% by 2022 – this is because while the annual production of wool has plateaued at around 1.05 mT, the combined production of MMF and cotton is increasing at around 6 mT per

INDUSTRY

annum. Asia will be the main region driving global economy and spending. Rapid changes in world population patterns will have a major impact on wool consumption. The wealthy will drive spending in woollen apparel, he says, and traditional major markets for apparel such as Germany, Italy, Japan, USA, and UK will become secondary to emerging markets in Russia, Brazil, China, and India.

A rapid growth in the middle class (440 million in Asia alone) and an affluent aging population will open opportunities for increased wool consumption, according to Dr Swan. Traditional areas for wool use will need to be defended against an increasing use of competitive fibres.

The main goal will be to grow luxury suiting and lightweight knit markets, but more importantly to create new markets for wool use in babywear, medical use, underwear and sleepwear.

Claudio Lacchio CEO G. Schneider Group believes that wool should follow the path of other speciality fibres such as silk and cashmere have achieved by taking advantage of the benefits as being perceived as a niche, luxury fibre rather than My Lacchio, in his IWTO presentation this year, demonstrated that wool in the 1990s produced 2 million t and the EMI AUD was 650cents/kg. Today 1,1million t of wool is produced at EMI AUD 1,000cents/kg.

This represents a price increase of 54% and a volume decrease of 45%. If this is compared to silk in the 1990s produced 80,000 t at 30$/kg and today production 165,000 t and the price is 50$/kg. This represents a price increase of 67% but the volume as also increased by 106%. The same can be said about cashmere increasing in both price and volume.

For wool to achieve an increase in both price and volume it needs to be sought after as a luxury fibre rather than as a mass produced fibre such as cotton and man-made fibres. So, the way to growth, says Mr Lacchio, is to position wool as a niche fibre and direct this message to the consumer.

Acknowledgement: Dr P. Swan Group Manager, Market Intelligence and Reporting AWI, C. Wilcox, IWTO Market Intelligence Committee and Executive Director of the National Council of Wool Selling Brokers of Australia.

C. Lacchio, CEO Schneider Group - 82 IWTO presentation on behalf of Italian Wool Textile Industry Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 9

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Wool on display and looking good at Wool House

➊

T

he 2013 Campaign for Wool exhibition was held at Somerset House in London. It exhibited to an enthusiastic public, a range of exhibits in wool from craft and fashion to furnishings and interiors, and acoustic wool. Bridgette Kelly, The Campaign for Wool’s project director said, “It is the most expansive venture the Campaign has seen to date as it looks at all the key uses of wool under one roof and shows the amazing versatility of the fibre and its potential to be both stunningly beautiful in use and yet incredibly practical too.” Arabella McNie curator at Wool House commented that the exhibition showed wool as a modern fibre and visitors were treated to a broad spectrum from ultra-modern and hi-tech to highly luxurious and more traditional. She hoped that the show had inspired greater use and understanding of wool fibre.

Photo 1 - Classic Drawing Room, designed by Fox Linton Associates.

Luxurious wools were used in the furnishings for this drawing room display.

The satin weave of the 10 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

walling and curtain fabric lends a subtle sheen, and the boucle wool the armchair completes the visual picture. Even the wallcovering and the light fittings are in wool. The colour

pallette of navy, soft blue, and white is classic and stylish, were offset by copper accessories. Mary Fox Linton is an interior designer who specialises in architectural projects.

INDUSTRY

Photo 2 - Wool used for its acoustic and aesthetic properties - Anne Kyyr Quinn regularly collaborates with leading architects and interior designers for private residences as well as public spaces. Quinn combines 100% wool felt acoustics for aesthetics and functionality by using her signature threedimensional techniques.

➋

Photo 3 - Bespoke tailoring from Savile Row - including a pattern cutting table with a chalked out suit length, paper patterns and various tools of the trade The Savile Row Room display offered a unique behind the scenes look at life on the street that is synonymous the world over with the finest bespoke tailoring and the inimitable part that wool plays in it.

Photo 4 - Josephine Ryan’s brief was to create a room with a country feel, using more naturally coloured and coarser textured wools instead of her trademark linens. Inspired by her Celtic roots, she has used old Arran jumpers for her upholstery and a mix of knit and weave textures to create a very layered interior. Warm browns add a rich tone to the more neutral palette of greys and creams.

➌

Photo 5 - Donna Wilson was asked to create a fantastical nursery that would feed a child’s imagination. This singular approach to design for children is very unique. The wonderland scheme of trees and sky, clouds and raindrops comes alive with the three dimensional felt leaves on the walls, and lambswool cushions, wool knot carpet, wool for blinds, lambswool blankets and knitted creatures.

Photo 6, 7 - Rooms were dedicated to fashion celebrating the importance of wool in the fashion industry.

➐

➍

➏

➎ Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 11

INDUSTRY

An hour with Philip Stucken

by Victor Chesky

Stucken Group - 150 years old and still going strong. This is no small achievement in any industry. The company is well known as a supplier of speciality fibre and wool products.

Through its offices in Port Elizabeth,South Africa and Bremen, Germany as well as through its agents in many countries worldwide, including China, it supplies its customers with greasy, carbonised and scoured wool, all types of speciality fibre including silk, mohair, camel and rabbit hair, as well as cashmere and angora. The company also processes and exports wool and mohair tops and yarn and recently branched out to produce mohair blankets under its own brand. I asked Philip Stucken, Chairman of the Groupabout the road that has led to the longevity of this well known trading company and how he views its future.

had grown considerably in the intervening years since Russian industrialisation the company and its assets were lost as the Russian Revolution of 1917 unfolded. By 1934 trading activities resumed as H. Stucken & Co. However with the rise of national socialism an authoritarian economic system made free wool trading difficult.

I

have led the Group since 1992, following in my father Rudi’s footsteps. And I am

proud to say that the company

Passing on the passion for wool Philip Stucken and grandchildren

using their commercial fleet of sailing ships. The eldest Stucken son, Engelbert Stucken (1854-1900) saw opportunities

is still in the family! The sixth

in the Russian wool trade and

generation, namely Anthony,

joined his uncle Carl Stucken

Daniel and Nicholas are now

in Moscow, trading as Stucken

operating

& Co.

the

business

here

Stucken traders took

in South Africa’, says Philip

part in the industrialisation of

Stucken.

Tsarist Russia. They established

It all started in 1863 when Georg Adolph

Stucken

(1824-1882)

together with his brother-in-law Wilhelm Klugkist founded the

the WolgaSpinnereiManufaktur spinning mill and two wool washing facilities between 1880 and 1890.

trading house Adolph Stucken &

The third generation led by Hans

Co. These two partners were the

Stucken (1881-1942) joined the

first Bremen businessmen to start

company shortly before World

wool

War l and while the company

trading

internationally

12 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

Rudolf (Rudi) Stucken, eldest son of Hans, (1915-1995) was sent to Romania to buy wool for the Bremen Wool Association.

After WW2 he helped to rebuild the Bremen company but later concentrated his sights on establishing a wool business in South Africa, building on the Blenkinsop & Stucken, a branch that existed before the war.

The wool trading company Stucken & Co was established in Port Elizabeth in 1951 by Rudi Stucken with the assistance of Otto Isenbeck, a skilled wool man. The company expanded rapidly and by the 1970s Stucken & Co was well established as a leading buyer, processor, and exporter of wool in South Africa. ‘Yes, you can see from the history of our company that we have always moved with the

INDUSTRY

times’, comments Mr Stucken.

‘We started in Germany and branched out into Russia, Romania and South Africa. As the industry shifted its focus so did we.

‘One of the key factors to the long term stability of Stucken & Co has been the multi-fibre aspect of the business. We are always able to supply a great variety of products to the market’.

The establishment of the hair department in the late 1950s and the subsequent merger with the rare fibre division of C. Melchers & Co has enabled the company to become one of Europe’s key speciality fibre businesses.

Stucken Melchers is the ‘extended arm’ of Stucken PE in Germany and other European countries.

‘Our niche silk and other rare fibre business in Bremen is based on long standing and reliable relationships in China.

Combined with a established wool business for the felting industry, these factors help Stucken Melchers set itself apart’. (see separate article on Stucken Melchers & Co - German Report).

‘The establishment of mohair combing in South Africa was an important milestone for us.

Up until that point South Africa had exported nearly all of its greasy mohair to processors and spinners worldwide, but mainly to the UK and Europe. In the late 1970s we opened top making facilities at the Gubb&Inggs mill, using Schlumberger combs.

This new technology resulted in lower conversion costs, helping to make South Africa the largest exporter of mohair tops to Japan, India, Korea and Taiwan. The mohair division was further consolidated with

6th generation family members Nicholas, Daniel and Anthony now operate the business in South Africa, seen here in front of the latest in spinning and winding machinery at MSSA - with Philip Stucken

the establishment of Mohair Spinners SA (MSSA) in 1996, about

100

years

after

our

forefathers opened a spinning mill in Russia. Most recently the processing chain was completed with the addition of a mohair blanket

weaving

mill

called

Hinterveld’. The company is always looking to the future.

It

has

made

some

recent

investments in state-of-the -art

spinning, winding, and roving machinery for MSSA.Work is also being done at Gubb&Inggs to ensure more eco-friendly wool and mohair scouring processes in line with EU requirements.

The spinning mill will introduce a new top dyeing facility to supply high quality weft yarn.

Over the last six generations we have transitioned into a global trading business’,says Nicholas Stucken who runs Mohair Spinners SA (MSSA). We are supported by a strong and well-functioning international network. We will continue to maximize our operation and still remain flexible.

The company plans to broaden its weaving capabilities from blankets, throws and shawls into the future. It has purchased modern weaving looms to allow for a greater variety to its blanket manufacturing line. A major part of our weaving capacity is taken up by private label customers for whom we manufacture products as per their specifications of Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 13

INDUSTRY

seize, design and colour. At the same time we have developed our own Brand ‘Hinterveld’ which we are trying to establish in the retail market place.

This is unfamiliar marketing territory for a Group traditionally selling raw and semi-processed material and Daniel Stucken has taken up this challenge with enthusiasm.

for our raw materials from China and so the opportunity for growth in primary wool processing is limited.

75% of South African wool was processed here some 15 years ago but now 80% of greasy wool is exported for processing, so value adding options are high on the agenda,’ comments Philip Stucken.

see the future for these and other

‘There is always room for expansion.

Our vision for growth includes the expansion of value-added products in spinning, weaving and possibly knitting. There is strong competition

Stucken is a niche wool and open top supplier. It operates the only carbonising mill and open top facility in South Africa. This complements its position in mohair tops and yarns.’We

fibres for which no doubt there will be

speciality fibres as secure.What possibly sets our Group apart is the active involvement of family shareholders, a young sixth generation, committed to upholding values of excellence, integrity and fair play. This will be our strength moving into the future.

We are dealing with wonderful natural a growing market share in top - end garments. We look forward to teaching the 7th generation about these fibres – concludes Philip Stucken.

China looking to new markets Looking back on 2012/13, it was a tough season for the Chinese wool textile industry. Lack of purchasing orders from around world, particularly Europe, compounded by a significant reduction in orders for government corporate uniforms domestically, has brought the industry to its knees.

T

he industry in China experienced ongoing restructure during the entire season as it tried to be leaner and more efficient.

But despite all of that, China continues to be the biggest wool buyer in the world.

According to industry statistics, China bought more than 75% of the Australian wool clip during the last season as well as being the principle buyer of raw wool from every wool producing country.

Some may wonder then, with the marketing situation both internationally and domestically so depressed, what has happened to all the wools exported to 14 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

By Robert Wang, China Manager AWTA

China? This question has puzzled most analysts. To answer this question we need to review the recent history of the wool textile pipeline to China.

To begin with, global wool production remained historically low. The main wool producing countries showed no increase in wool production quantity.

Therefore, the supply has been

so tight that the price has continued to stay at very high levels. This has triggered “hand to mouth” purchasing and this has been the case for the past few years. It has also resulted in the wool pipeline being empty at the beginning of the season.

Until that point, the Chinese wool textile industry had not experienced significant constraints in terms of regular demand. It needs to generate a certain quantity of wool stock in expectation of fulfilling future orders domestically and offshore.

But these orders from offshore and even domestically have not eventuated to expected levels.

ARGENTINA

This was not anticipated by the Chinese wool industry as it continued to purchase large quantities of raw wool from around the world, ended up with a significant stockpile.

Does this suggest that the Chinese wool textile industry is in trouble?

The answer is, not at all.

Many Chinese manufacturers have recognised the challenge and decided to develop new customers in new markets for their products, rather than wait for orders to come. We have seen significant investment made by Chinese manufacturers in the research and development sector. Trendy designs and products manufactured using new technologies such as circular knitting are obvious attempts to win the hearts and minds of the consumer worldwide.

Also noticeable is an increase in China’s participation in international shows, exhibitions and conferences whether in Europe, Asia or North America. Such a new phenomenon demonstrates that the Chinese wool textile industry is moving closer to the international market place in order to build a better profile for their products and better service.

The beginning of the new season (2013/2014) has shown that the wool supply will still be under pressure. With economic conditions around the world improving, and in particular the steady economic improvement in the US and to some extent in Europe, we will see the Chinese wool industry again dominating the supply of wool textile products to the world.

And I have no doubt that this will be the case.

Buying wool in Argentina exclusively a private practice For over 150 years the Lempriere Group has been sourcing and processing wool. Today the company is one of the world’s largest wool merchants and processors. In 2000 Lempriere Group expanded its global sourcing strategy and opened businesses in Argentina, USA and South Africa.

L

empriere Argentina was established in 2003. The location was chosen for its importance as a wool producing country with great potential. ‘The southern region of Patagonia was of particular interest to us’, says Claudio Ulrich of Lempriere Argentina.

‘This is the home of some of the best quality wools and our main objective has been to link our business in this region to our global network of offices.

For many years we have enjoyed a solid reputation as a greasy wool exporter. Our expertise in scoured wool and wool tops gives us an important advantage over our competitors and colleagues worldwide’.

Wool purchasing in Argentina is exclusively a private practice.

There is no auction system and as such it is extremely important that buyers develop a close working relationship with wool growers on a daily basis.

More than 80% of wool grown in Argentina is exported.

Although the industry has resisted exporting its wool in greasy form such exports have been increasing gradually over recent years. China has been a dominant buyer in the last couple of years purchasing over 30%, followed by Germany and Italy. Mr Ulrich points to

Pedro Ticinese, Claudio Ulrich (front), Daniel Chocron and Mariano Guerra

extensive promotion of local Argentine wools, supported by national policies such as “Prolana”, which established improvement programs for wool sorting at farms. The “Prolana” program that has been operating since 1994 deals with all aspects concerning adequate preparation of wool and shearing techniques in order to deliver wool properly prepared and packed, with no contamination.

‘In addition, intensive resorting takes place in our own warehouse. This ensures our own best business practice and guarantees the quality of the wool we deliver’, says Mr Ulrich.

Lempriere Argentina can be contacted at wool@lempriere.com.au Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 15

INDUSTRY

Australian exporter forges new paths The first time I visited the Lempriere offices in Melbourne was back in the early 1990s. At that time Italy and the Soviet Union dominated wool buying. Even then as one of Australia’s oldest wool company’s, with some 150 years of trading history, Lempriere was a leader in the global wool industry. It has been a major Australian exporter supplying wool to many famous labels around the world. Since its establishment in 1857 2.0 billion kilograms of the finest sheep wool or 20 million bales have been sourced from the highlands of Tasmania, the alps of New Zealand, the outback of Australia, the wilderness of Patagonia and the savannah of South Africa.

T

oday the Lempriere Group remains a wholly family-owned enterprise that operates in all sectors of raw material supply, from growing wool through to brokering, exporting and early stage processing.

It has approximately 15% market share in Australia, and is a dominant wool buyer in New Zealand, South Africa and both the South and North American markets.

either as raw wool, scoured wool, or wooltops depending on the customer’s specific requirements. Approximately 15.0% of the business’ volume is commission based buying.

‘Although a different business today, wool trading remains the cornerstone of our business’, says William Lempriere, fifth generation managing director at Lempriere. Lempriere is first and foremost a service organisation aiming to meet its customers’ wool supply requirements.

Lempriere Group typically buys greasy wool as a principal and sells it to customers

Lempriere Group has created a very competitive company structure that enables it to deliver customers with low cost solutions for all their fibre needs.

This structure is streamlined through all sectors of its business including fibre sourcing, funding, processing and manufacturing, logistics, and administration. The company has also been diversifying its product

In 2000, Lempriere widened its global sourcing strategy and opened offices in Argentina, USA and South Africa.

It also opened offices in China and Japan.

mix and broadening its production asset base into different fibre markets.

Earlier this year, through its affiliate company Lempriere Capital, and in partnership with Shandong Ruyi of China it acquired Cubbie Station out of administration.

Cubbie Station is a 93,000 hectare cotton growing farm in Queensland, Australia and produces over 50,000 tonnes of cotton lint at a value in excess of $100m.

Lempriere has further extended its product and service portfolio, and global footprint, through the recent acquisition of NZ Wool Services International (WSI), one of the biggest wool processing and exporting companies in New Zealand. ‘It is a very logical add-on to the group’, says Mr

Left to right: William Lempriere with Tony McKenna Managing Director of Lempriere Capital Partners, and Michael Davis CEO of Lempriere, at Cubbie Station 16 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

INDUSTRY

Lempriere. ‘It gives us a foothold into a coarser wool market that we were not present in before. We have privatised the company and now own 100% of its shares. WSI has a very competent and professional management team and enjoys an excellent reputation internationally.’ (See separate article on WSI in New Zealand Report).

‘As one of the world’s largest wool merchants and processors our objective is to provide solutions to any customer specification’, says William Lempriere.

‘We can acquire the best fibre from wool growers through our offices in all main wool growing countries. And through our own top making mill in India we have achieved the most cost effective production of wool tops.’

Lempriere’s mill in India contributes approximately 30% of total Lempriere wool top sales. The remainder is

contracted through top making mills in China, Italy and Argentina.

goods but has no entrenched culture

In recent years there has been a fall in demand for finer merino wool and William Lempriere predicts that this lower demand will continue at these depressed levels until 2014. ‘The biggest concern is the falling demand for tailored and bespoke suiting. This high end sector is crucial to demand for fine merino wool’, says Mr Lempriere.

this stage such promotion is missing

Mr Lempriere further comments that, ‘In my view, the wool industry urgently needs marketing and promotion to build a culture for the love of wool garments. This culture is firmly imbedded in countries such as Italy and Japan where fine suiting is the only acceptable business and formal wear, but it is completely lacking in such countries as China. China is the world’s biggest market for luxury

growing countries to further increase

for quality business attire. I feel that at from wool industry marketing radar and unless we as an industry address this issue future demand will continue to weaken.’

As to the future, Lempriere Group plans to consolidate and focus on its internal efficiency and continue to look for opportunities in all wool its geographical reach.

‘We have been a reliable supplier for over 150 years and our company offers excellent service and product choice.

Our customers in China can ring our office in Beijing, and in one telephone call, purchase wool or wooltop of any origin. And this, I think, is something unique. ‘

AWEX - information at your fingertips

A

WEX provides a number of online and live reports that provide a wide range of information including Current and Historical Auction Data, Indicator Time Series, Exports Data, and more importantly Market and Futures Reports.These reports are subscription based and are made available through AWEX Online, an internet based information system.

‘These reports are distributed to subscribers online or via email and fax and are available daily or weekly’, says Mark Grave CEO AWEX based in Sydney.These reports are designed to provide instantaneous sales results and a host of statistical reports to assist the day to day wool trader.’

The Early Market Report is made available just one hour after the commencement of sales. It contains commentary on early market trends, analysis and quotes. The Regional

Wool Market Report is made available to subscribers at the end of the trading day and includes information on regional indicators, micron price guide, main buyer list, and general market commentary. It also provides AWEX-ID based quotations for fleece, skirtings, locks and crutchings, and lamb’s wool categories. These quotes cover merino and crossbred styles depending on the availability in each region.

Point of Micron reports contain daily point of micron prices for all fleece descriptions. It includes a lot count indicating volume of wool sold.

A more comprehensive buyers list report includes information on all auction buyers, number of lots and bales of different wool types purchased. This report also includes sale offering figures and a season to date comparison. AWEX also offers detailed reports on superfine wools

(19.5 micron and finer). It also includes analysis, buyers, quotes and point of micron prices.

The

most

widely

used

report

is

the Weekly Market Report with a comprehensive overview of each sale week for the national market. Details include market indicators, micron price guides, offering analysis, AWEXID quotes, commentary, main buyers’ list and point of micron prices, end of week summary including the main components from each daily regional report

e.g.

indices,

micron

price

guides, offering analysis, commentary, futures activity, AWEX-ID quotations and main buyers.

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lplunkett@awex.com.au Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 17

INDUSTRY

In recent years wool has been better promoted as a fibre of choice.

Consumers have an ever increasing interest and concern for traceability and the environment.

Manos del Uruguay a handmade story

T

he story of Manos del Uruguay is a truly handmade story.

Starting some 40 years ago it is

also an ongoing and enduring story of craftsmanship and social conscience.

Well known entities such as The Campaign for Wool and the International Wool Textile Organisation promote the benefits of wool and ensure that the buying public is better informed.

However there are other organisations that are working with wool that enhance the story of this beautiful fibre...

18 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

Manos del Uruguay is a non-profit organization

that

has

successfully

combined opportunities for women to work at their craft and also achieve an end product that is sought after the world over. It has generated and developed work sources for women in the rural areas of the country and provides economic, social and cultural opportunities to all its members.

‘Manos del Uruguay was established in 1968 looking for a way to help women in Uruguay’s countryside to help generate income opportunities’, says Cecilia Lelanne, Product Development Manager at Manos del Uruguay.

The founding members seized on the idea of bringing together the knitting products of woman, often from remote villages around Uruguay, who had been hand-dyeing and spinning their own yarns for sale.

By collecting their products through a central sales body it strengthened their selling opportunities to achieve a more cohesive and profitable business module. ‘This has provided a tremendous opportunity for these women to help support their families, pulling them up out of poverty and into the commercial world of 21st century trade’, says Ms Lelanne.

Manos del Uruguay is run by a centralized committee made up of representatives of the cooperatives. The members of the Managing Committee change every two years. ‘We run a very transparent management and

INDUSTRY

01

02

01 ‘Manos colours are our trade mark. The secret lies in the patient kettle dyeing in small pots, and using precise colour recipes. This crafted process creates the subtle nuances in our striated colours as well as the fantastic shading of the space-dye’ 02 Hand-spun and hand-dyed yarns for the clothing and hand-knitting trades are sold in the most sophisticated retail shops around the world.

03 Cecilia Lelanne, Product Development Manager, Manos del Uruguay

03 commercial structure that deals fairly and respectfully with the craftswomen, their cooperatives and our trading partners’.

There are 13 cooperatives that bring together 250 craftswomen distributed in 19 localities in the interior of the country. Cooperatives have their central offices in cities and towns of the interior of the country, and, in addition, there are groups of craftswomen operating in different localities. The Service Center is located in Montevideo and employs approximately 90 people who provide the cooperatives with different services such as products design, supply of materials and raw materials, technical training, manufacturing and tool maintenance, sale of production, financing, advising and training for the directors of the cooperatives, and performing administrative functions.

‘We are proud to support job opportunities for these women across Uruguay. It means that families can stay together in their traditional villages, rather than having to migrate to the bigger cities in search of work’, says Ms Lelanne. The company has transparent management procedures in place and its commercial relationship with each co-operative across 17 villages is fair and respectful.

Manos del Uruguay uses wool, alpaca, silk and cotton and employs skills handed down from generation to generation. Manos del Uruguay Wool Clasica is hand-spun and kettle-dyed.

The natural variations in texture and colour produce a rich knitted fabric ideal for outerwear; the yarn takes particularly well to simple stitch patterns and felts beautifully. The broad colour range is wonderful for home decor projects.

Manos’ is a member of the World Fair Trade Organisation and is committed to good environmental practices. It is careful and considerate in its use of water and avoids the use of harmful chemicals in its dyeing process.

‘You can tell the provenance of each hank of yarn that we make because the person who dyed it has also signed the label. When you purchase this yarn you know exactly where it has come from’, says Ms Lelanne. ‘Manos colours are our trade mark. The secret lies in the patient kettle dyeing in small pots, and using precise colour recipes. This crafted process creates the subtle nuances in our striated colours as well as the fantastic shading of the space-dye’.

For more information on products offered by Manos del Uruguay contact Cecilia Lalanne at clalanne@manos. com.uy www.manos.com.uy Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 19

INDUSTRY

NSC offers insight into innovation plant. The showroom is located at the NSC fibre to yarn factory in Guebwiller, France.

NSC fibre to yarn is a world leader in supplying the most advanced fibre and yarn processing machinery and it is therefore not surprising that such an innovative move would come from this company.

Patrick Strehle and a GC30 chain gill in the NSC fibre to yarn showroom specifically designed for customers to view completely assembled machines, see them running, and even enable them to test process their wool to see the end result and quality

A

showroom where clients can view fully assembled machinery for the manufacture and processing of fibre and yarn - sounds like a good idea? Well, NSC fibre to yarn has done just that. The machines are fully operational and customers can assess the performance and suitability of the machinery before installation at their own

20 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

‘Those interested in purchasing machinery can even send their wool to us for a test run on this machinery so that we can demonstrate the results that can be achieved. We change the machines in our show room every 6 month or so to enable customers to see the latest technology as it is developed’, says Patrick Strehle, Commercial Director at NSC fibre to yarn.

‘We have developed a variety of textile machinery for fibre to yarn for a wide range of customers, both small and big. Our showroom allows our customers to familiarise themselves with the inner workings of our newest machines and see how these machine keep up with the latest market demands and trends’.

For more information please contact: Patrick STREHLE, e-mail: Patrick.strehle@nsc.fr Tel : +33 (0) 3 89 74 41 41

CAMPAIGN FOR WOOL

Campaign for Wool: Five Years Since First Seeds Sown

by Peter Ackroyd

D

uring the recent IWTO Congress in Biella in June, several delegates and heads of delegations were asking for an update on the Campaign for Wool and seeking assurances of an ongoing commitment from the Patron and the funder nations. I spoke to some of the key players funding the Campaign at a specially convened meeting in the CittaStudi and the gist of my appraisal of the very encouraging situation ongoing follows.

On Australia Day 2010, the 26th of January, His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales launched the Campaign for Wool to an audience of more than 200 prominent personalities in the UK fashion and interior world. The initial purpose of the Campaign, it must be remembered, was to assist

beleaguered farmers throughout the Commonwealth and beyond who had seen a dramatic drop in wool prices over the years, to the point where many were questioning the future of livestock farming. The serious global environmental impact of such a situation had not escaped the world’s leading environmentalist, HRH The Prince of Wales.

Several influential designers in the UK with a global fashion footprint quickly backed the Campaign.

Amongst the more notable were Sir Paul Smith, Dame Vivienne Westwood and Christopher Bailey, the Creative Director of Burberry, together with leading UK retail brands such as Harvey Nichols, John Lewis and Harrods.

The backing of many more in the industry worldwide saw the Campaign’s profile extend beyond the UK to France, Spain, Germany, Holland, Japan, USA, Italy, Korea, China, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa, through a series of Wool Weeks involving major retailers and fashion houses. All readily used the ‘green credentials’ inherent in the Campaign to reinforce their support of the LOHAS ( Lifestyle of Health and Sustainability) consumer, a caring being we heard a lot about in Biella.

Since the dark days of early recession, the price of wool has rallied and is now, dare I say in these widely read pages, relatively stable, seeing a surge in demand for ‘things natural and local’ at a time when caring consumers are asking serious questions about provenance and sustainability.

Wool has the answer to many of these concerns through its natural, biodegradable and renewable qualities, as Elisabeth van Delden, the IWTO Secretary General describes elsewhere in these columns.

Many at the recent Biella Congress expressed a willingness to become more involved in the Campaign, seeing the environmental work of the IWTO as the perfect complement to the promotional work being carried out under The Prince’s patronage.

Building on the recent success, we will seek to reinforce the key environmental messages of the Campaign through greater involvement of the entire wool pipeline from farm to fashion and lifestyle. The Campaign will fully exploit the concept of ingredient branding as a highly effective means of communicating environmental excellence to consumers who ‘ look beyond the label’. In support of this pivotal approach to wool as a sustainable choice, The Prince of Wales has committed himself to the Campaign far beyond the original five years initially discussed in early 2009.

Details of the Campaign’s very full global programme are available on the Campaign website, as are the latest brand guidelines that are being made available as we speak. Finally, can I ask all who read these pages and who are involved in our industry to become active in the Campaign for Wool. This is easily done by contacting me in the first instance at ackroyd@iwto.org.

22 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

IWTO I.W.T.O.

IWTO: Strengthening Sustainable Claims

W

hile all of us know what a great fibre we work with, wool is at the same time constantly being challenged by consumers, legislators and NGOs about its sustainable properties. These concerns of our external stakeholders need to be addressed not only through promotional work as it is done by the Campaign for Wool but also by fibre advocacy as it is done by IWTO. Two excellent examples of IWTO’s work can be seen in the progress made on defining wool’s environmental credentials and the newly developed welfare guidelines.

Published during the IWTO Congress in Biella, the IWTO Guidelines for Wool Sheep Welfare define best practice principles for ethical wool sheep production around the globe.

The objective of these guidelines is to clearly define and widely promote animal welfare practices in wool production, relevant to the wide diversity of production environments.

The guidelines for wool sheep welfare provide a ready resource for anyone interested in the applicable standards for wool sheep production globally, as well as those interested in developing individual country codes.

The guidelines will be of significant assistance to spinners and weavers working closely with downstream manufacturers in the global market.

The document was developed through a consultative process involving representatives of individual grower countries and technical internal and external experts in the fields of animal welfare and veterinary science within the IWTO Sustainable Practices Working Group.

IWTO has also made progress in the area of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) through the Environmental Credentials Working Group. The

working group’s goal is to show wool’s excellent contribution to environmentally sustainable practices, and LCA will provide the industry with the tools to achieve that goal.LCA methods are used to evaluate the life cycle environmental footprint of products, such as wool apparel, carpets or interior textiles and are crucial in presenting wool’s environmentally strong position.

LCAs provide a baseline measurement of environmental impacts and will help identify areas for improvement.

To have sound LCA data, a Wool LCA Technical Advisory Group (TAG) has been formed with LCA experts from across the world to provide technical resource to the Environmental Credentials Working Group. In order for the environmental credentials of wool to be accurately and consistently reported, the TAG seeks to resolve several priority issues. For example it aims to collate the best available LCA data and identify any gaps to allow for more accurate LCA results. It also drives the discussion on allocation of environmental impacts between coproducts in sheep production systems, e.g. what proportion of the total greenhouse gas emissions or water land use on-farm should be attributed to wool and how much to other products such as meat, milk and skins.

With its positive environmental credentials, wool can make an important contribution towards a sustainable future. In order to accomplish this, IWTO’s objective is to further promote wool’s environmental strengths. LCA will play a critical role in these activities, but this also needs close collaboration

by Elisabeth van Delden Secretary General IWTO

with the industry’s stakeholders. From farmer to industry, from manufacturer to designer, from government to end user, all bodies involved have a positive influence on the analysis and usage of wool and IWTO is happy to provide the platform for creating a sustainable future for and with wool.

These are just two examples that show how IWTO members work together to build a professional and sustainable wool industry. All involved in IWTO acknowledge that addressing current economic, environmental and social challenges is vital for individual businesses and an opportunity for a sustainable future. Challenges such as climate change and economic crises affect the entire industry and reflect systematic issues which no single company can solve. Through collaboration within the IWTO network, members can accelerate improvement of economic, environmental and social performance for the industry as a whole.

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 23

INDUSTRY

Chargeurs Group responds to changing market conditions

T

he name Chargeurs has been synonymous with wool and particularly wool top for as long as most can remember. It is hard to find anyone in today’s wool industry that at one stage or another has not worked with or for Chargeurs. Recently the company shifted its focus to that of a service business with very limited industrial assets. Chargeurs Wool then finalised its partnership agreement with the Otegui family group last September, by selling them a 50% interest in its wool operations in Uruguay. In addition, Chargeurs partnered with an Argentine entrepreneur by selling him a 50% stake in local wool operations in December 2012. During a recent visit to Uruguay , Victor Chesky spoke with Mr. Federico Paullier, recently appointed Managing Director of Chargeurs Wool.

Chargeurs is a global diversified group and a leading player in niche manufacturing and service markets. It operates in three business segments: Temporary surface protection, through Chargeurs Protective Films; Technical textiles, through Chargeurs Interlining; Topmaking and combing wool sales, through Chargeurs Wool.

Its wool division has been operating for as long as the Group itself. ‘In recent years we have been adjusting our size and scope in response to production over capacity and due to a reduction in demand. 2011 and 2012 were shaped by a general slowdown in Europe’s largest economies and a period of turbulence in Asian growth that affected Chargeurs’ main apparel markets.

This led to a decrease in delivered volumes in the wool business. The Group responded swiftly to this 24 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

wide range of our tops and origins will continue to be a strategic part of our business’.

Federico Paullier joined the Chargeurs Group in 1989 and during his time at Chargeurs Wool he has held various positions. Mr. Paullier was appointed MD of Chargeurs Wool in March 2013 and works from its office in Montevideo, Uruguay.

situation with measures to realign Chargeurs Wool with these changing market demands’, says Mr Paullier.

Chargeurs is a public company and its objective, according to Mr Paullier, is different to that of a privately owned company. ‘We cannot afford to be profitable one year and not the next.

As a public company we must try and deliver steady performance’.

Chargeurs Wool represents a third of Chargeurs Group, with a turnover of €524 million in 2012 and remains a world leader in topmaking and combed wool sales. ‘The wool industry has changed dramatically in the last 10 years. We are developing a new structure that is focusing on operating as a service business with a minimum investment in industrial assets.

Our focus is to work jointly with local entrepreneurs who operate in wool producing countries and we will continue to strengthen partnerships and supply chains with our key selective customers, together with our well known reliable and consistent service.’

‘Our worldwide set-up will continue to be our principal strength’, says Mr Paullier. ‘The excellent quality and

As to the future, Mr Paullier believes that wool will continue to be under pressure. ‘It is competing not only with other fibres but also against land space for dairy, grain, timber, and beef meat to name the most notable ones.

We have seen a reduction in wool production in many countries over the last 25 years, and wool is transforming more and more into a niche business’, he says.

‘In early wool processing we have seen China become the largest wool consumer by far. But as costs and currency strengthens in China it will become less competitive in processing fibre. China also has a huge processing over capacity and this makes competition in China very tough’.

‘But I believe wool prices will find good support and I can see them strengthening in the next few years.

Consumption of wool in China will increase, USA and Japan are stabilizing, and Europe will come back despite the current depressed and uncertain situation. Today most customers prefer to keep lower stock levels and have short term commitments. This will put additional pressure on delivery time but may offer better prices. Reliable service and quick response will be the key to profitable trading’.

‘Research and development in our fibre, and genetic improvements are a must.

I strongly believe in direct marketing.

Educating sellers at retail points, in order to educate the consumers about the properties of wool fibre is also a must. And more wool promotion will make a difference’, concludes Mr Paullier.

INDUSTRY

Woolmark launches a new brand ‘Woolmark Nurture’ Nothing could be more natural than clothing your children in Merino wool. Luxuriously soft and smooth, it is resilient and easy to care for, and helps keep little ones warm when their environment is cold and comfortably cool when it’s hot. And to ensure a good night’s sleep for both mothers and babies, studies have revealed a correlation between wool bedding and quality sleep patterns.

M

erino wool is the natural choice for clothing for babies and young children, as well as expectant mothers. It’s great for sleepwear, wraps and blankets along with bedding. You can trust Merino wool to help your children grow up in a safe and comforting natural environment.

A critical part of The Woolmark Company strategy is to find new markets for Merino wool – especially those markets that highly value Merino wool’s natural attributes, and in which consumers are prepared to pay premium prices.

The market for baby and infant wear is an important example of such a lucrative market, and The Woolmark Company’s “Mothers and Babies” program has been set up to drive demand for Merino wool in this market. The program works in three main areas: funding scientific research into Merino’s health benefits, innovative product development and creating awareness of the fibre’s benefits.

There is very little Merino wool used in this market at present, compared to the very large number of babies born each year. But there is a huge potential for growth in demand for Merino wool, plus it is an all-year-round market.

A major focus of the program is validating and communicating the health and wellbeing benefits of Merino wool products in this area. The fibre’s natural attributes make it well placed to become an integral part of each new parent’s health regime for their newborns and infants. Preliminary studies have already shown that wool can contribute

to a better health and well-being for infants such as better sleeping and therefore faster growth and development.

There is also a strong trend in this market towards natural and environmentally friendly products.

‘Woolmark Nurture’ is backed up by Woolmark product specifications that enable Woolmark licensees that have OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 (or equivalent) certification to use the Woolmark Nurture brand as an independent quality endorsement of the licensee’s certified products.

The diameter of the Merino wool fibre in certified products has an upper limit for each product category to ensure the products are comfortable for babies.

For instance the upper limit for next-to-skin apparel is 18.5 micron. Certified products must pass other requirements including colour fastness.

To help promote the brand, The Woolmark Company has once again teamed up with famed photographer Anne Geddes to produce a stunning image (pictured above) to support this new quality certification.

The Woolmark Nurture brand uses the widely recognised Woolmark symbol but has its own branded labels and tickets available for licensees. The program receives wide marketing support from The Woolmark Company’s network of global account managers.

Source: AWI Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 25

AMERICA

U.S. Wool Producers:

Stewards of Land & Sheep The U.S. wool industry is populated with family businesses that have generations of experience and pride themselves on good animal welfare and sustainability. The industry is full of engaged family-ranch operators who are committed to practices that protect the environment, improve land management and maintain animal well-being.

R

ecently, an industrywide survey of producers representing all major regions of the United States was conducted to identify best practices within the industry regarding environmental impact and animal care practices. Both of these issues are becoming increasingly important elements to wool consumers, and U.S. wool producers recognize this when implementing best management practices.

The health of pastures and ranges significantly affects the health of a flock and must be properly maintained. Nearly 100 percent of respondents in the survey monitor pastures for optimal grazing conditions, using at least one key indicator. Producers understand and respectthe land and have found that many grazing practices leave pastures and fields in better condition, restoring soil health and native vegetation.

As one of the respondents said, “We are first and foremost stewards of the land.” Almost half of the respondents report that targeted grazing by their flocks led to a reduction in the use of diesel, agrochemicals and fertilizers. Sheep and lambs are used for a multitude of

26 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

Ernie Etchart’s sheep grazing on public lands high in the San Juan Mountains in Colorado

land management purposes, including noxious weed control, post-harvest crop clean up and reducing the risk and severity of wildfires.

It is in the producers’ best interest to raise a healthy flock for optimum wool production.

There is an undeniable bond between the family-run ranches and range operations and their flocks, which demand 24/7 attention.

One respondent reported, “Our operation is built around the balance of healthy pastures and a healthy flock.”

In regards to flock care, respondents reported using best management practices such as experienced herders, flowing corrals, shelter against weather, well-trained dogs and trailing instead of trucking. Protection

from predators is a continual challenge for wool producers, especially those that raise sheep in the vast lands of the West.

Preventative actions to deter depredation is taken by nearly 50 percent of the respondents, which include moving the flock or increasing the presence of herders or guard animals.

The American wool industry recognizes the importance of communicating a stance on what constitutes good woolsheep welfare practices. With that in mind, the American Sheep Industry Association(ASI) produced theSheep Care Guide almost 20 years ago. The guide was developed to serve as a reference tool for the sheep producer using a variety of management and production systems and has been written in recognition of an ethical responsibility for the humane care of sheep. This educational document is not only intended for sheep producers, but also can be used by allied industries and others who are interested in the U.S. sheep industry’s animal-welfare and well-being recommendations.

As a follow-up to the Sheep Care Guide, ASI developed the Sheep Safety and Quality Assurance program. The purpose of this program is to maximize consumer confidence in, and acceptance of, sheep products by using research and education to improve management during the production of safe and high-quality sheep products.

Producers actively participate in the program through three levels of online training with the third level designed to verify that producers have implemented the SSQA program and that they are following

AMERICA

the guidelines outlined in the manual. In addition, verification is accomplished by a third party who visits the production units to assure that appropriate objectives and procedures are in place, are being monitored and are effective.

ASI has been proactive in the areas of sheep welfare issues since its formation when it adopted an industry code of practice regarding nutrition, health, handling and equipment, management and body condition. The policy states: “Domestic sheep production has been a part of the human way of life for thousands of years.

Responsible sheep husbandry has always included a concern for the well-being and humane treatment of the animal, as well as a commitment toward good stewardship of the land.

Sheep operations in the United States are very diverse, owing to the adaptability of sheep to a wide range of climates and management systems. Sheep are efficient converters of renewable forage to high-quality food and fiber.”

Members of the U.S. wool industry by and large are families that care about their sheep and their land and are striving to achieve excellence through the balance of animal care and environmental stewardship.

Honing in on a Centuries Old Practice: Grazing High atop Engineer Pass in southwest Colorado, way above tree line, at around 12,800 feet, grazes a flock of Ernie Etchart’s sheep doing their part to help the environment.

28 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

Peter Orwick (second from left), ASI’s executive director, participated in the panel addressing animal welfare at IWTO’s Congress in June. He spoke of ASI’s Sheep Care Guide as a guideline for wool-sheep welfare.

“There is just a lot of perception out there that isn’t factual,” says Etchart of public lands grazing.

ASI’s Sheep Care Guide is not only intended for sheep producers, but also can be used by allied industries and others who are interested in the U.S. sheep industry’s animal-welfare and well-being recommendations.

It can be viewed at www.sheepusa.org/ Publications

The science of grazing in the San Juan Mountains has been honed over decades of employing the practice.Sheep were predominantly brought into the area to provide miners with lamb and wool, but as the mining boom slowed to a crawl, the sheep remained and thrived grazing the alpine tundra, which is a fragile ecosystem of grass and forbs perfectly suited for sheep.

In fact, sheep, when properly grazed, stimulate root growth of alpine vegetation, control weeds, help distribute seeds and encourage vegetative production as grazed plants become more vigorous.

“The biggest misconception is that sheep ruin everything they have been on,” says Edna Mason with the U.S. Forest Service.

“Sheep have been grazing up here as long as mining has existed. You can see the scars from mining, you can’t see any from grazing,” Etchart says.

Jim Lovelace, Bureau of Land Management, says there are many uses of public lands and they can work together for everyone’s benefit.

“Recreation is just one of the uses – sheep grazing is a traditional use,” he says. “By and large, the sheep don’t impact the people’s recreation experience,” he says.

“The sheep herders are good about keeping sheep off trails and anywhere there would be a conflict.”

And the outcome from grazing on America’s vast public lands is a natural and sustainable fiber that was produced in an environmentally conscious manner.

AMERICA

Quality wool clip key to Lempriere USA The US wool clip is small and very diverse, providing a niche product for almost every type of manufacturing operation from weaving applications to value based woollen manufacturers. ‘Because of the diversity of the US clip, it is very important to know the farmers, the fibers, the brokers, the logistics, and the hidden costs’, says Rick Powers, division manager at Lempriere USA. ‘At Lempriere we are well positioned to provide that knowledge and do so for each and every client they serve.

L

empriere’s USA offices, located in the south eastern city of Charleston, South Carolina and in Texas, provide ready access to the entire USA wool clip. The Lempriere team has great experience with international top making and scouring as well as 10 years successful raw wool marketing to overseas merchants and

Rick Powers

processors. Rural Sheep station and brokering backgrounds and love of the fiber and wool industry enables the team to communicate effectively with in the farm community, through auction houses, and through to the manufacturing and fashion industry they serve. ‘Our goal is to supply our international buyers with the best

quality wool to meet their specific processing needs’, says Rick Powers.

‘Our team is very knowledgeable in US wool and its processing suitability and we also offer our clients extensive services in shipping and logistics’, concludes Mr Powers. Lempriere USA can be contacted at wool@lempriere. com.au

Down Memory Lane – A Remarkable Coincidence

I

n rare instances in our lives we are privileged to experience a remarkable coincidence that allows us to meet up again with colleagues in the wool industry that we have shared a bond with in both domestic and international circumstances in another era, but had unfortunately completely lost contact with for a significant number of years. Such was the case at the IWTO 82nd Congress in Biella in June, 2013. It was facilitated by a new tradition started at this Congress by Peter Ackroyd, President of the IWTO – that being to encourage and facilitate long-standing “woolies” of the industry to attend the IWTO Congress.

in 1982 at the Leipzig Fair in Leipzig, DDR (“East Germany”) as it was then known. Needless to say, many stories were swapped about the good times and comradeship experience in the 3 – 4 years they all attended the Leipzig Fair as well as other locations in the world that were shared in one another’s company.

The first part of this incredible and unlikely reunion was when I, previously having worked at G.H. Michell & Sons (Australia) Pty Ltd) , Ian McIvor, Orange, Australia – previously Dalgety, Australia and Sid Coombe, Melbourne, Australia – previously Elders Australia, meeting at the Biella Congress. The last time that all three of us had met was

The second part of this incredible experience came at the Presidential Dinner. Ian and Sid were introducing Ambassador David Ritchie, the Australian Ambassador to Italy, to IWTO members at the Dinner.

When Ambassador Ritchie was being introduced to members at the table that included Barry Savage, there

by Barry Savage - American Sheep Industry Association International Consultant, Boston USA

was an instant & mutual recognition between the two!! Discussion ensued regarding where it could possibly have been that they last met. It turned out that in the period including the early 1980’s Ambassador Ritchie was the Australian Ambassador to the DDR & attended all the Leipzig Fairs (two per year) at that time. Remarkably, Ambassador Ritchie and Ian and Sid had not had the opportunity to discuss this connection previously, so it was a complete surprise to all!! Again, needless to say, some further stories were swapped! Kudos to Peter Ackroyd for a new tradition just beginning !!

IWTO Biella-left to right Peter Ackroyd, David Ritchie, Sid Coombe, Ian McIvor Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 29

UNITED KINGDOM

The British Wool Marketing Board (Board) acts on behalf of 40,000 UK sheep farmers through the whole chain from farmer to retail promotion. We collect, grade, warehouse, test, auction, market and promote the British Wool clip, as well as carrying out Shearing Training and Research & Development.

F

or the Board, the 2012/13 wool selling season has been very difficult, reflecting the market for the rest of the Sheep industry - volatile, unpredictable and, compared to the 2011/12 season, largely disappointing. However, we look forward with confidence to 2013/14. by: Ian Hartley CEO British Wool Marketing Board

Sales during the 2012/13 season were very erratic. We only sold 8 m kg (including 5 m kg stock) in the first seven sales, but 28 m kg in the next 14 sales whilst maintaining price as far as possible. In these last 14 sales clearances were very strong, despite putting more weight in each sale, with the result that we cancelled the last sale of the season on 12 June, and start the 2013/14 season with a very limited stock carryover of 0.58 m kg compared to 4.7 m kg last season.

Looking forward, with the buoyant market over the last few months it is reasonable to assume that the general economic situation going forward will be an improvement on last year and, with no stockpile, that next season’s auction price will be higher, especially in those fine and medium wools favoured by China. Supply will be the determining factor, not demand. We carried forward a stock of nearly 5 m kg into the

30 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

2012/13 season and sold nearly 37 m kg, but with an anticipated reduced clip and no stockpile we will have only approximately 30 m kg available to sell in the 2013/14 season (19 % less).

The Board strongly believes it is essential to continue to work closely with the global textile industry to promote and educate consumers about the unique attributes and benefit of the fibre. That is why the Board supports the Campaign for Wool (CfW), a massive global endeavour to refocus the retailer and consumer interest in wool.

In September 2012 we launched the CfW to American consumers. We have introduced the ‘Wool Book’, a resource guide for consumers and the interior design community, and now have a CfW app. An online educational programme for interior designers and architects will also be developed in the coming year, to ensure that there is educational understanding of the fibre and its performance properties. We have made changes within our Marketing Department to put the CfW at the heart of our promotional strategy.

The CfW has already achieved far more than originally envisaged and, with renewed commitment from HRH The Prince of Wales and from the major funders, we believe the CfW will continue to grow over the next few years.

On a similar collaborative style, as with the CfW, the Board is also working with other parts of the global industry, through The International Wool Textile Organisation, in respect of the Environmental Credentials of Wool and Sustainable Practices for Animal Welfare.

UNITED KINGDOM

Heritage & tradition

Planet friendly

Created by you

Centuries of wool production. A small island with a huge terrain and a wild climate. Delivering beautiful, strong wool.

Natural, sustainable, carbon efďŹ cient and environmentally assessed. Because it matters for our future.

Stunning products from a quality ďŹ bre guaranteed to inspire. Quite simply, a work of art.

British Wool: Our heritage is a work of art With over 60 different sheep breeds and long-standing tradition British Wool is truly exceptional. No other country can offer as much choice in shade and texture. Our sheep are born free to roam and produce wool that is recognised as the strongest and most durable wool in the world today. Naturally renewable British wool offers strength, durability and long lasting appearance retention to carpet.

PATRON: HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES

With our heritage you can create a work of art. www.britishwool.org.uk

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 31

UNITED KINGDOM

Statistically speaking Italy

Swan Group takes hold in Asia

Italy consumes (per year): 20,000 t of wool tops 75,000 t of woollen yarn 60,000 t of woven fabrics

Italy exports: 40,000 t woollen yarn 36,000 t of woollen fabric

1 person in 8 is employed in the textile industry 60% are women

Italy accounts for 45% of textile production in EU-12

Fabrics: exports 60% domestic 40%

Yarn: exports 53% domestic 47%

Acknowledgement: C. Lacchio, CEO Schneider Group 82 IWTO presentation on behalf of Italian Wool Textile Industry 32 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

Andrew Price and Dr. Hua Wang

T

he Swan Group was proud to launch Swan Wool Asia, at last year’s Nanjing Wool Conference in Sanya. Based in Shanghai, and managed by Dr. Hua Wang, Swan Wool Asia continues the investment of the Swan Group in the future of the industry. ‘Swan Wool Asia will focus on growth in the Chinese market, and will provide direct sales and technical support to clients,’ said Andrew Price, Managing Director of Bradford based Swan Wool Europe Ltd. ‘This is another significant step in our growth, and we look forward to developing strong long term relationships, and offer our technical assistance to our valued clients.’

‘Fibre knowledge and diversity are the key components to a successful future. There is a danger that wool will be traded like most other

commodities, on a piece of paper. But those of us who live and breathe wool know that this is not in the best interests of our clients, or the long term future of the fibre. Wool is the supreme technical fibre, and in this fast paced world we live in, clients need to be assured they are receiving a product that performs on the machines, and improves yields. First cost is just that, it’s the end cost that matters most and technical expertise is essential. Our hands-on approach, and worldwide fibre knowledge, is the cornerstone to our business.’

“The last 12 months have again been challenging for the wool industry, as the world tries to recover from the ongoing economic slumber. Market and currency volatility has eroded long term speculation, to be replaced with short term, hand to mouth purchasing. But what we are seeing is genuine demand, which appears to be consistent with supply. We are confident about the future of our industry, and will continue to invest.

“Our company policies and direction is quite simple – we offer our collective experience, in a timely and professional manner to all of our clients. We strive for quality in product and service, and look to build long term relationships”, Mr. Price said. “We also take pride in what we do and try to enjoy ourselves along the way, and hope it shows”.

UNITED KINGDOM

Innovation is the Key to Success When Harry Dawson first created the wool trading company that bore his name, little did he know that 125 years later his enterprise would remain one of the most trusted and well-renowned wool suppliers in the world. from many other companies within the wool industry. Mr Swift oversees general trading activities in the UK and helps the worldwide teams to coordinate their market strategies. ‘Our customers look for a quality, consistent, competitive product backed up by excellent service every time.’

Jo Dawson

Last year the New Zealand H. Dawson business secured a deal to supply 15-micron ultra-fine merino wool to the prestigious Japanese designer and retailer, Konaka. They are using it to replace cashmere, as it is both luxurious and durable but

more affordable, and entirely traceable.

One year on from that original deal, H. Dawson Wool’s New Zealand business continues to develop its great relationship with Konaka and other retailers who have been excited by this project, to supply large amounts of wool for their clothing and interior products.

Not just popular in Japan, wool is enjoying a revival across the world, from high end designers creating bespoke merino suits to crafters who use wool tops for home-spinning due to its softness. H. Dawson Wool’s sister company, The Wool Room, has become the ‘go to’ place for the artisan community who are able to purchase its stock of different

H

. Dawson Wool has developed into a financially secure, respected and trusted business which now trades wool from 35 countries to customers in over 75 international destinations.

Its ability to source the best wool for the customer, at the right price and with excellent delivery options has placed H. Dawson Wool as the supplier of choice for many customers.

Jonathan Swift, Trading Director at H. Dawson’s UK head office believes that this innovative approach sets H. Dawson apart

34 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

Konaka representatives, farmer Tony Clarke and Craig Smith Business Development Director at H. Dawson Wool NZ at Closeburn Station with 15 micron 100% NZ merino wool

UNITED KINGDOM

to find the right solution for our customers and help them increase their knowledge of wool and how it can work for them’, says Jo Dawson.

H. Dawson has offices in China, New Zealand, Australia, South Africa, India, Italy, Ireland and England and works closely with growers of wool to supply its valued customers with a product that they can always rely on.

Jonathan Swift, Trading Director at H. Dawson UK

colours and types of merino wool through the company’s website. Chris Tattersall, Managing Director of The Wool Room, said: “We have become a crafter’s dream destination as we have made it easier for them to find what they are looking for.

We offer the chance to buy more specialist fibres which cannot readily be found elsewhere. With knitting, spinning and felting a hot trend, the public reaction to our fibres has been wonderful.

Our wide selection offers people the chance to take a step back and start working the fibres from their purest stage.”

Jo Dawson, H. Dawson CEO, who is also actively involved in the international Campaign for Wool added: “Recently there has been a tangible change in the way consumers see wool and this is such a great opportunity for the wool industry to unite to maximise this resurgence. The industry itself has traditionally been quite divided which is in stark contrast to the very well-organised synthetics industry. Everyone involved in the wool industry can learn a lot from one another and we should help each other become stronger, better wool businesses. My vision for the future is one where we move on from the days of internal unrest to a time where we are united, mutually supportive and working towards the strengthening of the wool industry as a whole – I believe this process is happening as we speak.”

‘We have faith in our wool and our ability to find the right type for every customer, every time. We don’t need to bow to the pressures which affect other fibre producers, such as cutting corners during processing or supplying a product which lacks consistency. This means we can be trusted 36 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

H. Dawson Wool’s Ireland office is based in Galway which makes the most of the wool sourcing and buying opportunities in this beautiful part of the world.

The rich landscapes, lush countryside and long farming history make Ireland the perfect place to grow quality wool. H. Dawson’s presence in Ireland, in

‘‘

Even though wool may have been around for thousands of years, we are finding that people who are new to wool benefit from the support H. Dawson can offer them and they appreciate our insight and new ideas about how to source and use wool,

’’

Michael Cooke, Senior Trader, H Dawson UK

close proximity to the farmers who grow the wool they source and buy ensures traceability.

Jonathan Swift from H. Dawson Wool, said: “Irish wool is worldrenowned for being very white and clean. This makes it ideal for the clothing and interiors markets and year on year we are witnessing growing demand from these producers. Our Ireland operation is expanding to meet that demand and to ensure that we can keep sharing the best wool with customers around the world.”

‘We take the time to really understand our suppliers, to find out how they grow wool and what makes their product really special’, continues Jo Dawson.

‘We forge strong relationships with our customers, to gain an insight into the exact nature of their business, how they like to operate, what they need and how we can support them. By having such strong relationships with growers, we can cut the lead times on delivery without compromising quality or increasing costs to the customer’.

H. Dawson is regularly asked to provide large quantities of traceable wool to customers who have come to learn that it can deliver order after order of wool that is consistent and of a very high quality. ‘We are proud of our reputation as the world’s ‘go to’ wool supplier and work hard to maintain this status. We can stay ahead of the curve, able to seek out the right wool at the right price, from 35 countries, 365 days a year,’ concludes Jo Dawson.

Follow H. Dawson Wool on Twitter @HDawsonWool and find them on Facebook.

Standard Wool Where we lead, others follow.

With over 200 years industry experience, state-of-the-art technology and servicing more than 30 countries world wide, it’s not surprising more and more customers are turning to us for all their wool requirements.

WWW.STANDARD-WOOL.CO.UK

STANDARD WOOL (UK) +44 (0)1274 756600

STANDARD WOOL (Nanjing) +86 25 5807 1182

Passionate about wool

UNITED KINGDOM

Generations of experience from Standard Wool UK

F

rom trading and scouring facilities in West Yorkshire, UK, right through to operations in Chile, China and New Zealand, everything about Standard Wool reflects a unique combination of heritage and experience complemented by modern-day business practices, professionalism and technology.

From speciality wools and stock blends to unique bespoke mixtures, Standard Wool UK converts greasy wool into a variety of clean and consistent finished products to match customer requirements. ‘And our sales team make it their business to ensure products are delivered on time, and that the convenience which comes from using our own scouring facilities translates into genuine flexibility on delivery and turnaround times’, says Andrew Jones Sales Executive at Standard Wool UK. ‘The company can source greasy wool from all over the world.

Whether your need is for a few bales or full containers, we can deliver to your requirements’.

Standard Wool UK remains one of the biggest buyers of British wool at auctions operated by the British Wool Marketing Board last season. It provides a consistent, reliable supply to the European carpet trade as well as supplying scoured and greasy wool of all origins, top making wools, and noils. It also has an office in Nanjing, China through which British, Chilean

38 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

greasy, scoured wool and wools of other origins are traded.

‘The company is committed to sourcing, processing and supplying superior quality wools and by-products, including the company’s latest organically produced UK blends’, says Mr Jones.

Compliance with ISO14001: 2004 attests that guarantees of environmental standards are high. Closely monitored and carefully controlled waste disposal mean that customers can be satisfied that the strict requirements of the Environment Agency are met.

Thomas Chadwick & Sons, the scouring division of Standard Wool in the UK. It supplies scoured wools, predominantly for the carpet industry and finer wools for the apparel sector. It has been awarded ISO 14001 2004 environmental management certification for the processing of organic wool. These wools are becoming increasingly popular with bedding and futon manufacturers worldwide.

The company investment in extra dedusting machinery has resulted in a cleaner whiter wool. ‘Our clients appreciate the results that are achieved by using this new machinery’, says Mr Jones.

Quality Tops & Scoured Wool from Standard Wool Chile Standard Wool UK has been a major force in Chile for some

100 years. It has a scouring and combing plant in Punta Arenas in the heart of the Magallanes region of Chile and has been a major influence in the promotion of Chilean Corriedale and Merino fleece wools.

Standard Wool Chile (SWCH) is a fully owned subsidiary of Standard Wool UK and is the largest purchaser of the Chilean clip. It has access to the best quality wools at the best possible prices, and typically accounts for the purchase of 60% of the country’s entire annual clip. It takes 6 million kg greasy from Chile and other countries in the region and offers tops, noils, greasy wool and scoured wool to the international market.

The bulk of the production is shipped by container to key markets in Italy, UK, China, USA, Japan, Iran, Spain, and Turkey amongst others.

The plant is equipped with modern French carding Standard Wool UK Sales Executives Andrew Jones (left) and Richard Moore

UNITED KINGDOM

plant has a capacity of 4 million kilos of product. Quality control is carried out in house with an Interwoollabs accredited laboratory with modern equipment including laserscan micron measurement.

Mr Sugden, General Manager says, ‘our company has a long-standing relationship with farmers throughout Chile and has extensive knowledge of the different wools produced by each farm.

Dean Sugden General Manager Standard Wool Chile

and combing machinery and has a 2.4m wide Andar 6 bowl scouring line with a 3 stage Alfa Laval wool grease recovery plant. A modern effluent treatment system is used for the treatment of waste water. The

‘We source from over 500 farms and buy most of our raw material directly from the farmers by private negotiation. The other popular method is on a sealed bid tender basis’. This knowledge and relationship with the producers allows wool types to be selected to guarantee standard, high quality products.

The most important wools in terms of quantity and quality are produced in the south of the country. The wool is generally 20 - 30 microns of snow

white colour and has exceptional characteristics for length, strength, handle, and low VM. It is especially popular for knitwear manufacture.

The tops processed by Standard Wool (Chile) meet the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 - Product Class 1.

Standard Wool UK is also focused on employing a new and younger management team. ‘Passion is a prerequisite’, says Paul Hughes snr, group Managing Director. ‘We are training for the future. We have been in the business for many years and employ more than 140 people. And we continue to adapt where necessary to remain competitive and reliable for our customers worldwide’.

For more information contact: Dean Sugden at dsugden@standard-wool.co.uk Andrew Jones at ajones@standard-wool.co.uk Tel. + 44 1274756600

Passion & Expertise passing to the next generation

‘Our business stretches back over 200 years. However, we are a forward thinking company’, says Paul Hughes Senior, Group Managing Director of Standard Wool UK. ‘And I am pleased to be able to pass on my passion for wool and our company expertise to the next generation.’

P

aul Hughes junior, who is a qualified accountant has been working in the company for the past three years, has been gaining experience in all areas of the Standard Wool group. ‘Our diverse business operations have given me a great opportunity to experience all aspects of the growing, processing and sales components of our business’, says Paul Hughes Jnr. ‘The wool business is a truly fascinating and exciting industry to be a part of, with many factors effecting the price

of wool, one thing that is constant is our pride and passion as a company in delivering quality products in the most economical and efficient way possible.’ says Paul Hughes jr.

‘From our trading and scouring facilities in West Yorkshire, UK, right through to operations in Chile, China and New Zealand. Everything about Standard Wool reflects our unique combination of heritage and experience complemented by modernday business practices, professionalism and technology’.

Paul Hughes senior and Paul Hughes junior at their Bradford office Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 39

able

Norway is a product of excellence and is only available

UNITED KINGDOM

from Curtis Wool Direct.The prime objective of the two organisations working closely together on this enterprise is to ensure that all our customers aspirations are met, ensuring that we can build a confident future together.

able

able

tant

ured

Viking Wool tops in demand ‘To make the best product you start with the best raw material’, says Tim Holgate joint Managing Director at Curtis Wool Direct. ‘That is why the tops we make from Viking Wool so popular with our customers.’

The vast majority of Viking Wool is scoured in Bradford, at Haworth Scouring Co Ltd. The company takes great care and attention at each stage of processing to ensure that its Viking Wool retains its best qualities. Hand sorting by skilled craftsmen into sixteen different classifications results

in the wool being ideally suited for a multiplicity of different and important end uses. Luxury yarns have been developed for the fashion industry as well as the more traditional sectors including knitwear, cloth, hand knitting yarns, carpets, rugs and throws.

A valuable natural resource

from Norway

ol Direct Ltd te, Mills, st Yorkshire. UK

Viking Wool from Norway ranks well alongside other famous wools such as the Merino, Real Shetland wool, British wool and New Zealand wool. Indeed many manufacturers prefer it because of its naturally inherent qualities. It is good colour, strong yet soft, springy and very versatile. It ranges from 28 to 40 microns and includes lambswool, fleece wool and is also combed into tops.

Viking Wool has been grown for centuries on the hills and pastures of the beautiful scenic

)1274 563444 1274 518720 s@curtiswool.co.uk

wooldirect.co.uk

40 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

Norwegian countryside. These unique sheep breeds have evolved over time to enable them to adapt to the different climatic conditions they encounter. The natural environment in Norway, with its pure air and a pesticide free landscape makes it an ideal place to grow this beautiful wool.

Curtis Wool Direct (CWD), a British based company, together with their Norwegian partner Nortura of Norway has created the exclusive Viking Wool brand.

‘We are working more closely than ever with our customers in the UK, Europe, the USA, China, Japan and in Norway itself to develop new and exciting products from this wonderful fibre.’

For more information please contact Curtis Wool Direct at + 44 (0) 1274 563 444 E wools@curtiswool.co.uk

Lawrence House, Dowley Gap Business Park, Bingley BD16 1WA Tel: +44 (0)1274 563444 Fax: +44 (0)1274 518720 daniel@curtiswool.co.uk tim@curtiswool.co.uk martin@curtiswool.co.uk simon@curtiswool.co.uk wools@curtiswool.co.uk

www.curtiswooldirect.co.uk

British Wool Sales 2013/14 BW47

7th August

2013

BW58

22nd January

2014

BW69

13th August

2014

BW48

21st August

2013

BW59

5th February

2014

BW70

27th August

2014

BW49

4th September

2013

BW60

19th February

2014

BW71

10th September

2014

BW50

18th September

2013

BW61

5th March

2014

BW72

24th September

2014

BW51

2nd October

2013

BW62

19th March

2014

BW73

8th October

2014

BW52

16th October

2013

BW63

2nd April

2014

BW74

22nd October

2014

BW53

30th October

2013

BW64

16th April

2014

BW75

5th November

2014

BW54

13th November

2013

BW65

7th May

2014

BW76

19th November

2014

BW55

27th November

2013

BW66

11th June

2014

BW77

3rd December

2014

BW56

11th December

2013

BW67

9th July

2014

BW57

8th January

2014

BW68

23rd July

2014

Suppliers of the worlds premier wools

Wool Scourers & Exporters of all types of British, New Zealand, Norwegian, Real Shetland and all other origin Wools. Speciality Topmaker.

Suppliers of all types of shrink resist wool and tops.

UNITED KINGDOM

EUROPA WOOL personalised, efficient service and quick delivery

‘We established our business 25 years ago with the view to servicing small to medium sized clients’, says David Morsley Managing Director of Europa Wool in central UK. Today the company supplies scoured and carbonised wools of most origins, tops and speciality fibre, as well as synthetic fibres including nylon and polyester.

Europa_Advert_2012.pdf

1

08/05/2012

Richard, Gina and David Morsley

08:59

‘We have a broad customer base’, continues Richard Morsley whose role it is to focus on sales and day-to-day issues. ‘We stock mostly European customers with 50% coming from the UK and other 50% from Western and Eastern Europe’.

generation involved in Europa

Richard Morsley

Gina is the person with the

Morsley and Gina are the second

Wool. ‘The first point of call for our customers is Gina’, says Richard. ‘She is familiar with our current clients and because Gina is always in the office, clients can be confident that they will get consistent and reliable service. information at her fingertips’.

25 years in the industry

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

CELEBRATING

Call or email for our latest stock and price list

1988-2013

www.europawools.com

42 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

UNITED KINGDOM

‘We always have stock at hand and where some companies have been holding back on forward orders we can fill orders that are last minute and required urgently’.

Europa wool sells to manufacturers of woollen fabric, woollen knitted yarn, tops and worsted spinners.

It also dyes to specific customer specification using reactive dyes which are environmentally friendly. The company offers a very personalised service driven by its small but experienced team. ‘And our customers can be assured of our very stringent quality control. Spinners can come to us with a specific colour requirement and we will match it. We will also source wool for a particular requirement and produce yarn needed. We can supply 6 different colours in one delivery’, says Mr Morsley. The company product

list includes wools from many origins from 18 – 35 microns. It is a British Wool Marketing Board licensee and mainly supplies British and European

scoured wool and wool from New Zealand and Australia.

Customers interested in contacting Europa Wools info@europawools.com

SPB

Delivery in 7 days or less from SPB There are not that many commission wool processors left in Europe. But those that are left have modern facilities, and great experience in processing all types of wool. When you process with Speciality Processors Bradford (SPB) your wool is in very safe hands’, says Albert Chippendale of Speciality Processors Bradford, who has been processing wool for over 25 years.

T

here are always standards that everyone follows but for us each customer has an individual requirement that we always follow to the letter. Confidentiality is also guaranteed to all of our clients’.

SPB is in close proximity to Europe, a convenience enjoyed by customers that require quick delivery without a compromise in quality. The company provides this service for quantities both big and small, from 500kg to 100 tonnes.

‘Our location allows for a quick response time, especially for European customers, and we pride

Albert Chippendale with shrink proof tops - in high demand by the knitting sector Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 43

UNITED KINGDOM

44 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

ourselves in offering a flexible service and still delivering orders within days’, says Mr Chippendale.

‘We are quick and highly cost competitive compared with China or India where there are long delays in terms of delivery. When a knitwear manufacturer needs to respond to current market trends quickly a short lead time is very important’.

we look after the clients

SPB provides a service in shrink resistant wool processing for topmakers and spinners.

‘Manufacturers that offer natural products that perform better and that are also environmentally friendly will always be one step ahead of their competition’, says Mr Chippendale.

value at minimal cost.

Traditional markets for SPB products in knitwear include the UK, Western Europe, Scandinavia and North America. ‘We treat wool for hand knitting as well as for high performance apparel such as ski wear.

Hand knitting has enjoyed something of a resurgence in America and this is an area of wool treatment that we are expert in, shrink proofing and getting rid of the itch factor’.

in the UK to be approved

natural

products

SPB is a company that is constantly looking for ways to innovate and grow and frequently upgrades its machinery. ‘Our process allows our clients to receive the right wool handle, right colour, and good washability properties according to specific requirements. And as a commission scourer

are

environmentally

consignment

from

start

to finish’. The company is totally independent. It is not aligned or linked to any topmaker or wool trader.

There are many benefits to SPB’s treated wool and the processing

is

constantly

monitored to the highest standards.

It

gives

the

manufacturer and consumer alike,

maximum

added

A finished product made from shrink resistant wool can exceed the equivalent of 50 domestic washing cycles without any deterioration due

to

compacting

or

felting and can prolong its life considerably.

SPB is the first company under stringent European legislation as an integrated pollution prevention and control plant.

‘Our plant meets all the most advanced treatment specifications operate

to

and ISO

we 9001

quality standards and we are

registered

with

Environmental

the

Agency

in the UK. We can offer that

friendly, with OEKO TEX certification’.

SPB

also

complies with Woolmark specifications for washable wool.

For more information please contact Albert Chippendale at

speciality.processors@

btopenworld.com

UNITED KINGDOM

Providing assurance to both manufacturer & consumer The ENco Global Testing Services laboratory in Bradford is responding to the growing strength in consumer concern for the production of environmentally tested wool. ‘An increasing demand for ENco Certification is coming from manufacturers in all sectors of the textile industry. This is being driven by the retail consumer demanding more environmentally friendly manufacturing methods’, says Dr Mike Madden, Head Scientist at ENco Global Testing Services.

T

testing of fibres and blends, in terms of microns, length, colour and wool content.

his environmental concern is affecting wool processing methods from scouring to finished product.

ENco Global Testing Services laboratory offers an independent environmental testing and consulting services specifically for the wool and textile industry across the world.

The laboratory works closely with wool and allied fibre textile industries including manufacturers of raw wool, scourers, yarn spinners, yarn and loose fibre dyers, carpet manufacturers, fabric finishers and textile and carpet retailers.

‘Our work is based on more than two decade’s experience of solving cost, production and legislative issues with a full appreciation of the commercial realities faced by manufacturing companies in the textile and other industries. We offer a wide range of services to our customers.

We analyse and report on testing of effluents and emissions for IPPC permits’, says Dr Madden.

‘We also provide certification for mothproofing application, control and management in effluent, and environmentally friendly inspection in carpet yarn scouring and finishing, fibre, and yarn and fabric finishing’. The company offers

Lord Mayor speaking to Dr Mike Madden, Head of ENco Ltd at its global testing laboratory.

The future of the wool textile industry around the world is inextricably linked to traceability of good environmental practices from the farm gate to the retail floor. Wool processors that can provide proof of their environmental credentials will always be ahead of their competition. ‘At ENco we can assist wool and textile companies to obtain the necessary certifications for a variety of

environmental consultancy services. We can do that quickly and professionally’, says Dr Madden. ‘An increasing number of companies at the retail end now demand environmental accreditation from suppliers.

Obtaining the necessary accreditation is a must in today’s competitive world’.

Mothproofing is one of ENco’s biggest services. ‘Insect attacks are on the increase, often because processors have not been vigilant in the use of moth proofing applications.

At ENco we analyse the level of mothproofing and insect resistant chemicals present in yarns, carpets, fabrics, and military apparel. We are working on developing an eco-friendly insect repellant with a natural repellant that does not kill the insect. Of course this is good for those manufacturers aiming for a greener label.’

‘The global textile industry is becoming more and more aware that planet friendly products are what the consumer is demanding. From fibre to retail product we can issue ENco certifications prove and verify environmental compliance ‘, concludes Dr Madden.

For more information please contact Dr Mike Madden, ENco Global Testing Services, Cashmere Works, Birksland Street, Bradford BD3 9SX, West Yorkshire, England.

Tel +44 (0) 1274 846 599 Email info@encoglobal.com www.encoglobal.com Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 45

YARN

TopSpun Yarn - finest merino, non-mulesed and ecological

T

TopSpun Yarn is an ethical yarn supplier focusing on quality raw white worsted circular knitting and upholstery yarns for the merino active-wear and wool interiors markets.

opSpun Yarn provides circular knitting and upholstery weaving yarn in a full range of single and two ply yarns from 18nm (56Tex) to 80nm (12.5Tex) using only the finest, whitest merino and X-bred wool.

This circular knitting yarn is machine washable (Woolmark Total Easy Care standard) and is supplied primarily to the merino active wear sector and upholstery yarn to weavers for the interiors markets. TopSpun Yarn is an ethical yarn supplier that sources its quality raw white merino and x-bred wool for worsted yarn from key wool growing regions in Australia, South Africa and New Zealand.

TopSpun Yarn uses non-mulesed wool from 100% fleece wools from farms that are certified non-mulesed and are committed to best animal welfare practices. These wools are selected from the finest fibre for; its lower CV Diameter for better Comfort Factor; its naturally whiter colour; less short fibres for lower pilling rates; and length for better tenacity and elongation in the yarn.

According to TopSpun Yarn, they can manage a complete supply chain from greasy wool, to wool tops, to yarn. This gives the company the ability to deliver the best quality product in line with an increasing traceability demand for ethical and environmental products.

Yarn Certification is to Oeko-Tek 100 Class 1 - tested for harmful substances and suitable for babywear. Additional options include EU Eco-label for Pesticide Free Wool with Biodegradable Processing and GOTS Organic certification for fibre sourced from accredited wool. All TopSpun supply chain partners only use chemicals that are accredited to EU REACH standards - using only biodegradable lubricants and detergents that adhere to these standards of chemical use.

For more information about TopSpun www.topspunyarn.com E yarn@topspunyarn.com

TopSpun Yarn’s in-depth knowledge and expertise in wool throughout the supply chain ensures it works with only proactive and customer focused supply chain partners and manufacturers that are dedicated to environmental and social welfare standards. Relevant certifications are available throughout the manufacturing process.

+ 61 3 8625 6519 yarn@topspunyarn.com www.topspunyarn.com

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 47

YARN

By Bridgette Kelly

T

he best conditions for wool buyers are long term stability in prices, and wool has always previously been fairly consistent on that front. Until of course, the international economy took a big knock introducing all sorts of mayhem including the volatile trading conditions of the last two years, which inflicted constant pressures on spinners and manufacturers who had never seen so many price rises in such a short time.

The real impact is always felt after any spikes in the price indicator have passed because once the Tsunami tides have settled you see the impact of the crashing waves.

However, whilst higher prices make spinners and manufacturers reach out for alternatives and in theory consumers seek the lesser product to balance the budget – it also seems that British Wool may have defined itself better in the process.

“Ultimately, quality manufacturers can take the pressure of increased costs because the right product can justify the increase. So good Tweed jackets, high-end clothing, good rugs and carpets absorb the cost for a while and then put the price up.” Tim Booth of the BWMB says.

Trend toward

British Wool Yarns

48 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

Wool prices at the fortnightly auctions in Bradford are now more settled and there are signs of a global improvement in the economy too. At the bulk end of the textiles market, which shifted to lesser blends during the price increases, the arrival of new and softer synthetic wool substitutes does not worry everyone in the wool trade. Martin Curtis, Director of Curtis Wool Direct feels that there is no way that wool should compete with lesser fibres – “Synthetic fibre manufacturers tell us that their products are new and improved but they still lag behind

YARN

the virtues of wool with its natural springiness, softness and resilience – it has a whole package of added value,” he says.

He reflects the general view that British Wool is still maintaining a good position with the industry that prizes its crisp crimp and strong yarns. So, is the trend for British Wool in yarns on the increase? The answer is yes according to Mr Curtis, “British Wool produces a magnificent yarn and many spinners in the UK are investing in new equipment to meet the demands of the modern customer. Spinners overseas are also creating new and exciting products from British grown wool.”

At the high end of the American carpet industry there are interesting developments with British Wool yarn and a growing affinity for the rugged reliability of the yarn in niche product. Trends are influencing new developments and increased innovation with texture within designs is sought after. Textured, naturally coloured wool and robust strength are a particular quality of British sheep breeds. The wool is uniquely strong on the loom and takes dye very well – these attributes are all part of its interest across the carpet sector and increasingly in knitwear and garments too – young designers at the cutting edge of textiles see that potential.

their wool stories and have recognised that this can return more revenue from the same fibre simply packaged differently. This reflects a cultural shift seen in the consumer market.

“More manufacturers want to position British Wool within a product that is marketed with a little more identity and which reflects consumer values.”

Tim Booth, marketing manager at the BWMB explained.

Internationally, there is growth for British Wool yarns – China is on the ascent as their domestic market becomes more affluent. “A growing percentage of our wool goes to China.” Mr Booth comments. “But understanding the British Wool bulk

grades and microns is quite a new world for those more familiar with the uniformity of other wools.”

Embracing the blending capability of, for example, the Pick and Super types with a Halfbred and a Swaledale blend to get the perfect shade of natural Ecru for a carpet range poses a learning curve for them but the higher wool volumes going to China clearly show the interest.Ultimately, the blending of British Wools is a little like a recipe – as many spinners already understand, you can achieve great results with the right balance of ingredients.

The British Wool Marketing Board (BWMB) is seeing more manufacturers seek out a heritage or origin story for their products.The consensus that bulk sales of lower priced product keeps the market strong hides the fact that profit on volume is often low across the chain.

Manufacturers are now more aware than ever of the impact of marketing Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 49

YARN

Roadmap to cleaner wool dyeing processing. Mr Gruener pointed to an example of this, where a famous Italian manufacturer Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna Figli, made a change to chrome free dyes and after a two year pilot trial found that the chrome-free dyes were more effective in dyeing wool in black shades compared to chrome dyes.

T

he wool textile industry is not new to campaigns against it by animal rights groups and environmental activists.

The Detox Campaign, organised by Green Peace in July 2011had the objective of getting the textile industry to stop using hazardous chemicals in textile preparations. Green Peace targeted leading brands including Levi’s, Adidas, and Zara.

According to Franz Gruener, Head of Application Technology Colors at Huntsman Textile Effects, in response to this Green Peace campaign, several major brands committed to work toward zero discharge of hazardous chemicals by 2020.

Franz Gruener

Huntsman Textile Effects is a leading manufacturer of a broad range of chemical and dye products that are chrome free.

At the IWTO Congress held in Biella Mr Gruener presented ‘Turning Risks into Opportunities - How to Dye Wool Sustainably’. This presentation outlined the way to cleaner supply chains and increased transparency for all dyes used for wool.

As far back as 1997 Huntsman had developed the first Lanasol® CE dyes to replace chrome dyes. The European Union, as well as China, is now enforcing stricter health and safety measures in relation to the use of chrome dyes. Chinese legislation for the textile industry will ban the use of chrome dyes from 01 January 2015.

“But today approximately 25% of all dyes still used for wool are chrome dyes’, says Mr Gruener. ‘Particularly for dyes used in Black and navy shades’.

71% of experienced wool dyers chose the sample dyed with Lanasol® Deep Black CE-R. 50 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

According to Mr Gruener new environmentally friendly dyes such as Lanasol® CE are just as effective, or even better, than the old hazardous dyes. An industry sized test conducted

by Huntsman showed that the Lanasol® CE range out performed traditional chrome dyes right across the board - at every stage of dyeing and

Ermenegildo Zegna made a public statement that chrome free dyes are the way to go, and is providing the Italian wool industry with a push towards greater standards of environmental sustainability.

In its own survey among 100 customers and internal wool experts Huntsman provided two wool samples, dyed to the limit of saturation. One sample was Lanasol® Deep Black CE-R and the other Chrome Black.

When asked which sample showed the deeper black, 71% of experienced wool dyers chose the sample dyed with Lanasol® Deep Black CE-R. ‘Lanasol® Deep Black CE-R can replace chrome dyes at similar cost, with similar fastness level and shade, and reliable efficiency in wool dyeing’, says Mr Gruener. ‘It is also safer for the preservation of wool fibres resulting in significant commercial benefits throughout various production steps.’

IWTO President Peter Ackroyd, in his opening address at the latest IWTO Congress, underlined the new direction IWTO had taken over the last two years by devoting considerable time and energy to getting wool’s green message right.

If the wool industry is to live by its green image it will have to embrace the use of environmentally friendly products throughout the processing pipeline to the exclusion of harmful chemicals and waste disposal.

NEW ZEALAND

It’s all in the ‘recipe’!

by Victor Chesky

Nigel Hales (left) and Tony Cunningham examine wool from Topmaster scouring line

Over 80% of New Zealand crossbred wool is exported already scoured but traditionally most fine wool is exported in greasy form. Cavalier Woolscourers is set to change that. According to company CEO Nigel Hales Cavalier Woolscourers has the “recipe” to process ultra fine wools at its Topmaster scouring line, offering the best in cost and the best in quality. I met up with Nigel Hales and Tony Cunningham at their Hawkesbury Woolscour plant in Napier to discover this secret recipe.

T

State of the art computer controlled greasy blending systems reduce effluent loading on the traditional scour setup by over 40%

he Napier and Timaru plants process in excess of 100 million kilos of greasy wool and speciality fibres every year. Both plants run ANDAR processing lines and are located close to main port facilities for cost effective logistics.

‘We provide the right ‘recipe’ for each and every customer.

We offer a tailored service that is an extremely cost competitive wool processing service. We are the only New Zealand wool scouring company that has been specifically set up with ANDAR “Top Master Woolscours” to scour Fine Wool to exacting quality standards’, says Nigel Hales. ‘Our machinery can process from coarser to finer wools, from merino to drysdale - we can do it all’.

Tony Cunningham comments that Cavalier Woolscourers is a stand-alone commission wool scourer. ‘We don’t own or trade wool and therefore we have no conflict of interest with our customers. ‘ ‘We can process the wool to a cleaner level and with a minimal residue content’, says Mr Hales.

‘We have processed wool that has the lowest levels of fibre residue in the world’.

The company has achieved a brighter wool due to raised Base Y values. ‘For example’, says Mr Hales, ‘greasy wool supplied with a Base Y value of 64.0 will typically measure at Base Y 65.0 or higher after washing, without artificial whiteners. We can achieve a maximum yield through our careful processing and our pre-scour treatment results in less entanglement of the finished product, less felting, and subsequently we achieve a higher percentage of product, better suitable for the market’.

‘We

wash

wool

to

a

very

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 51

NEW ZEALAND

Crystal white wool from Cavalier Woolscourers - in demand around the world

high

standard’,

says

Mr

Cunningham. ‘Evidence of this is measurable. Very low residuals are left on the wool, and we have the ability to lift the Y value 1 full unit without chemical additions’.

‘Our scouring plants include unique

state

of

the

art

computer controlled greasy blending systems

systems. include

These multiple

greasy wool openers which individually cope for each style and length of wool.

These allow us to reduce the effluent loading on the traditional scour setup by over 40%.’

All

management

members

at

staff Cavalier

Woolscourers are qualified wool classers. The efficient management

structure

ensures quick response to customer demand.

‘And

we can usually scour wool within 48 hours of delivery to the plant’.

52 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

The company offers all traditional scouring services such as individualized bale branding/marking options, Nylon woolpacks, Red, Blue or Green bands, bale weights to meet specific mill requirements, “ICE” pure white wool option.

Green

‘We also lead the way with World Best Practices for environmental issues such as low water usage, energy usage and recycling. All wash water is fresh pure natural water from artesian ground wells onsite, not recycled water that has been stripped with copious amounts of acid and polymers or that has previously been through someone’s kidneys!’, comments Mr Cunningham.

have

The company is accredited with ISO 9001, Global Organic Textiles (GOTS) for “100% Organic Scoured New Zealand Wool” also Environmental Choice which links to the worldwide

Building

standards,

Asure Quality Organic, Bio Grow NZ Organic, Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries (MAF) transition facility and more. ‘We rate ourselves as the most quality conscious commission

scouring

company in the world and the

certificates

to

prove it!’, says Mr Hales. The company is also a strong supporter of the Campaign for Wool.

‘We are totally focused on continuous

improvement

and new scouring technology, not

only

operate

at

to

continually world’s

best

practice levels but to ensure that the quality of the wool we wash for our customers is and remains measurably the best in the world’.

Please contact Nigel Hales – nigel@hbws.co.nz or Tony Cunningham tonyc@ctyscour.co.nz www.cavalierwoolscourers.co.nz

NEW ZEALAND

Business as usual for leading New Zealand wool exporter

A

period of uncertainty for the New Zealand wool industry has been put to bed with the recent acquisition of New Zealand Wool Services International (WSI) by Australia’s Lempriere Group. Lempriere acquired 100% of its shares at the end of last year and as such WSI is now a privately owned company. WSI is New Zealand’s largest wool exporter with an annual turnover of approximately NZD 200 million. Its head officeis in Christchurch, New Zealand, with international offices in China and India.

The company owns and operates two modern scouring plants: the Kaputone Wool Scour in Christchurch, and the Whakatu Wool Scour in Hawkes Bay. Both are equipped with the latest

➊ scouring machinery and process some 40% of New Zealand’s coarse wool and a combined capacity to process 400,000 bales per year.

‘This acquisition is a welcome outcome’, says WSI Managing Director

Michael Dwyer. ‘’It is business as usual for us. We will continue to offer wool exporters in New Zealand the choice of scouring facilities and therefore protect and encourage competitiveness in the New Zealandwool industry’.

William Lempriere, Chairman of Lempriere Group said: ‘It is a very logical add-on to the Lempriere Group.WSI gives us a footprint into the coarser wool market, a market segment that we were not present in before. WSI has a very competent and professional management team and enjoys an excellent reputation for ➌ quality.’

Lempriere has been in the wool industry for over 150 years and is a family-run business. ‘We are serious, long term wool industry participants.

The purchase of WSI was a measured response to facilitate the direction our company is moving’.

➋ 54 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

WSI is well known around the world for its Purelana™ brand. ‘Bales strapped with a single Red Band

NEW ZEALAND

are instantly recognisable by international buyers as virgin wool which comes exclusively from New Zealand Wool Services International’, says Malcolm Ching NZWSI Purelana Manager.

PurelanaTM is available in a range of wool types to meet industrial demands of, for example, tufted carpets or axminster carpets.

Every PurelanaTM shipment is covered by an extensive warranty and detailed testing certification, incorporating length and colour measurements.

‘We use only top quality raw material grown in New Zealand by skilled woolgrowers and we scour and process it in the most sustainable way, and to the highest environmental standards. This makes our wool unmatched in its sophistication, consistency, colour, strength and purity’.

‘A seamless production system means PurelanaTM wool can be traced from the sheep’s back, through the scouring process, direct to the manufacturer and beyond if necessary. It is produced from 100% pure New Zealand wool’.

Strict systems of environmental care are enforced and only pure New Zealand water is used in the scouring process. Organic waste used is then used to manufacture superior compost products. The company works to ISO 9001 and 14001 standards.

China is the biggest market for WSI but it is also one of the largest exporters of New Zealand wool to India and Turkey.’We have long and well established supply links to spinners and weavers in India’, says Mr TC Bilandani Manager WSI office

Delhi. Mr TC Bilandani is a qualified textile engineer with three decades of experience in working with New Zealand wool.

Turkey is also a growing market for New Zealand wool. Mr Mustafa Gozne, WSI representative in Turkey says ‘spinners and weavers in Turkey recognise and value the quality of New Zealand wool they receive under the PurelanaTM brand’.

➌

WSI has been a major contributor and supporter of the Campaign for Wool. In recognition of HRH the Prince of Wales tireless work on behalf of the world wool industry, WSI commissioned a unique six square metre rug bearing his coat of arms, handcrafted in Christchurch from New Zealand Glacial wool, which is to be presented to him.

‘The Prince of Wales is the most significant sheep farmer in the United Kingdom and the world’s foremost advocate for wool.

He launched the international Campaign for Wool in 2010 to educate the world about the extraordinary benefits and versatility of wool in furnishings, fashion and everyday life”, said Mr Dwyer.

➍

➎ ➊ Red Band offers assurance and consistency ➋ NZ Wool Services management team Left to right: Liang Jun, Malcolm Ching, John Dawson, Michael Dwyer, Paul Steel ➌ Left to right: Nathan Arthur and Bruce Reid Wool buyers, Malcolm Ching, Purelana Manager ➍ TC Bilandani Manger WSI office Delhi ➎ Mustafa Gozne WSI representative in Turkey ➏ Michael Dwyer with unique six square metre rug bearing the coat of arms of HRH the Prince of Wales, hand-crafted in Christchurch from New Zealand Glacial wool

➏ Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 55

New Zealand Wool Services International Limited 30 Sir William Pickering Drive, PO Box 29 383 Christchurch, New Zealand Phone: +64 3 357 8700 • Fax: +64 3 357 8720 • Email: marketing@woolserv.co.nz

NZSWI India: "Kiwi Hutt" C1530 Sushant Lok-I, Guragon 122002 India Tel: +91 124 6460645 • Fax: +91 124 4105479 • T.C. Bilandani - CEO: +91 981001 7995 • Email: tc@woolservices.com Ruzgarlibace Mah. Acarlar Is Merkezi, F Blok Kat:7 D 17 81640 Kavacik, Istanbul, Turkey Tel: 90 216 425 31 33 (Pbx) • Fax: 90 216 322 28 79 • Email: mgozne@imisk.com.tr

NEW ZEALAND

Access to NZ’s biggest wool broker provides advantages to Bloch & Behrens Bloch & Behrens NZ (B+B) specializes in crossbred carpet grade wools. It exports New Zealand wool to over 30 countries and supplies a number of wool users in New Zealand. First established in Denmark in 1856, B+B has been exporting New Zealand wool since 1949.

as B+B to advise them about the most appropriate wool for their manufacturing needs. Our strength is in providing such customised advise’.

both our international customers and our farmers with price certainty. Providing the vital link between the sheep farmers and manufacturers is essentially what PGG Wrightson and B+B do, living up to our mission statement: “Servicing the wool industry, adding value from farm to market”.

‘We have the expertise needed to provide each of our customers with wool deliveries that have been produced to their exact requirements. Having direct dialogue with our customer – big or small, means that we have been able to identify exactly what is important for them.’

Palle Petersen

C Hans Bering

arpet mills around the world are keen to buy from reliable exporters’, says Palle Petersen General Manager at B+B, ‘and at Bloch & Behrens we have the ability to supply on demand quickly and efficiently. It is certainly an advantage being the trading arm of PGG Wrightson, the biggest wool broker in New Zealand. This connection provides us with the opportunity to source a wider variety of wool types.

Through our Brokering Division we are also able to forward contract wools direct with growers, providing

58 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

B+B also supplies wool destined for other products such as bedding, felts, insulation, as well as lamb’s wool for upholstery, blankets and knitting yarns.

B+B’s main markets remain UK and Europe, but they are also very well represented in places like North America, India, South Korea and Japan.

‘Our European customers are serviced by Hans Bering, who is based in Copenhagen. He can provide immediate answers to any urgent requests, and can be at our customers’ mills with very short notice if required. In Italy we are represented by Torben Christensen, who is based in Biella.’

‘We view ourselves as more than just a wool supplier. In addition to supplying our customers with top quality product, and on-time delivery, we provide our customers with market information and technical advice. Today most mills have very little technical expertise of their own and they rely on wool exporters such

‘Supplying millions of dollars worth of wool to a manufacturer involves a good amount of trust.

We are proud of the reputation we have in the market place, and we enjoy having built up some very special relationships around the world – in many cases these have developed into true friendships. That is how we like doing our business.’

Mr. Petersen was recently appointed to the position of Honorary Consul, representing Denmark in the South Island of New Zealand.

Mr Petersen also comments that some NZ wool types are seasonal, but the company endeavours to hold these types in stock to ensure uninterrupted supply throughout the year.

Manufacturers interested in tapping into our resources and expertise, are welcome to contact us for more information about our products and services’.

For more information please contact Palle Petersen.

Email bbnz@blochwool.com

BLOCH & BEHRENS WOOL (NZ) LTD

Servicing the wool industry, adding value from farm to market.

Bloch & Behrens has been a supplier of New Zealand wool to the global market for generations. Our long-standing relationships with manufacturers worldwide, means you can rely on Bloch & Behrens to deliver high quality wool that meets your exact requirements.

Bloch & Behrens Wool (NZ) Ltd A subsidiary of PGG Wrightson Wool PO Box 9024, Tower Junction, Christchurch 8149, New Zealand P +64 3 343 9100 E bbnz@blochwool.com

www.pggwrightsonwool.co.nz

NEW ZEALAND

NZ merino wool offers a variety of options John Marshall & Co has been supplying the world wool markets since the 1930’s. This New Zealand company exports crossbred and merino greasy wool, scoured wool and slipe wool, and wool tops and specifically treated wool for the bedding industry to a wide range of end users.

J Marshall specialises in working with individual customers to address their specific needs.

‘We are known to deliver specified wool types for a wide range of applications that includes carpet manufacturers, bedding manufacturers and manufacturers of specialised products such as the baby care market.

Peter Crone with wooltop from New Zealand merino

A

ccording to Peter Crone Managing Director at John Marshall & Co. ‘Our customers are getting a product with better parameters. Good quality wool, good environmental practices and a reliable service are what we are all about at John Marshall & Co.’ John Marshall is among the top 10 wool export companies in New Zealand. It sources its wool direct from farmers as well as from auction and has a reputation for it quality merino wool. ‘Our New Zealand merino wool comes directly from a selected group of growers situated in the southern region of New Zealand. They all produce wool from the same blood line using Forest Range rams.

Forest Range is one of the largest producers of super fine wool in the southern hemisphere.

These sheep produce high quality merino wool that is particularly well received by European top makers’, says Mr Crone.

60 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

New Zealand wool is naturally very white and free of black fibres, making it easier for manufacturers to produce dense and uniform colour. It is a sustainable fibre, farmed outdoors and naturally long and strong. A unique spiral crimp built into the wool fibre means wool carpet will retain its looks for longer because it has natural bounce-back abilities. ‘This is why our NZ wool is considered the premium eco-friendly carpet fibre.’

‘Wool fibre takes only a fraction of the energy used to produce synthetic fibre. While there are some glamorous sounding “eco-bling” fibres on the market - if you take a look past the green-washing you’ll find that the majority of the content is synthetic and the warranties are less impressive once you read the fine print’, says Mr Crone.

About 10% of the wool John

Marshall purchases each year is used to produce the company’s high-end Joma Wool. This specially processed wool is created by crimping the wool, which increases its bulk by 40% to 50% and further enhances its natural resilience. Each fiber of the wool functions as a miniature spring and the vertical alignment of the fibers and crimp work together to create a cushion under the body that facilitates air circulation. This helps to diffuse water vapour and regulate temperature, “creating a natural comfort zone for sleepers,” Mr Crone says. Wool has other characteristics—it’s flame retardant, non-allergenic and mildew resistant—that make it appropriate for use in a wide variety of sleep products.

J. Marshall has been working with American and European bedding manufacturers that use Joma Wool to develop superior quality products such as mattresses, pillows, and other bedding products. (See article on Joma Wool in Bedding Report).

Mr Crone has been involved in the wool industry since the early 1960s and is a past Chairman of the New Zealand National Council of Wool Exporters. He says, ‘we are always interested in developing new relationships with companies that are interested in using New Zealand wool for their products.

For more information please contact Peter Crone at peter@joma.co.nz

PATRON: HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES

PATRON: HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES

NEW ZEALAND

NZ company offers wide range of wool types New Zealand’s clean green environment and sustainable farming practices produce the whitest, brightest and cleanest wool in the world. ‘Good climatic conditions combine with the unique characteristics of New Zealand wool make it an attractive fibre for a wide range of products’, says Michael Inkson Managing Director of JL Crichton.

F

Michael Inkson Managing Director (left) and Colin White past Managing Director who retired last year after more than 40 years in the NZ wool industry

62 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

or fifty years J.L Crichton & Co Ltd has been specialising in supplying world markets with New Zealand raw and scoured wool including scoured lamb wool, and slipe lamb wool.

we can select the best wool for

‘Our expertise and knowledge of New Zealand wools means that

and we supply on time and to

each customer’, says Mr Inkson.

‘When you need a special kind of wool to give your product life and colour, you can to talk to us. We can match the right wool to each customer specification budget’.

NEW ZEALAND

JL Crichton offers a range of wool types including wools for products and applications in carpets, hand knitting, wool spinning, non woven, bedding and babywear. ‘With the worlds increasing awareness of the benefits of natural fibres for both our health and the environment we believe that New Zealand wool types are suitable for the many new and exciting products from baby wear and bedding right through to industrial applications’.

All JL Crichton wool is tested prior to sale, at an accredited testing facility, which provides objective measurements of commercially important characteristics. The characteristics tested include yield, condition (moisture content), fibre diameter, colour, length, strength, and bulk.

The company believes direct communication with the client is a key to ensuring that their specific needs are met. ‘We always deliver to customer specification’, says Mr Inkson.

‘The seasonal supply of certain wool types can be an issue. So, having a supplier that is right there when the best quality wool can be purchased must be a benefit to the customer’.

We look forward to continuing our service to existing clients and receiving enquiries from new customers,’ concludes Mr Inkson.

For more information www.crichtonwool.co.nz or wool@crichton.co.nz

Global wool solutions from H. Dawson NZ H. Dawson Wool’s New Zealand team is currently working closely with high profile clients in the fashion business, to develop wool products which surpass quality expectations whilst helping to maintain a budget.

B

y understanding the technical qualities of the fibres they buy and sell, H. Dawson Wool’s development team have the expertise to blend various different fibres to achieve the perfect end result for discerning clients.

Craig Smith Business Development Director from H. Dawson Wool New Zealand, said: “We take our knowledge of the way wool behaves and its special qualities and we combine that with out team’s technical knowledge about how to blend fibres to achieve a certain result.

“More and more clients want to understand the process that wool goes through, and rightly so. We are able to help design an

end product with our customers with wool that may not be what they traditionally use, but it’s amazing what can be done when all concerned in the pipeline actually talk together. This makes sense for the client, and the farmer also benefits because we want to make sure that through the innovation comes financial sustainable profits” We have a truly global presence and we actively look for opportunities throughout the entire wool pipeline, from field to fleece and beyond. We don’t limit ourselves to being ‘just a wool supplier’ because we are successful in so many other areas of the wool industry. We embrace challenges and our

Craig Smith

reputation for being innovative and creative drives us forward every day.

Our customers come to us because they need a consistent supply of wool with a dedicated service that is tailored for their individual needs and requirements.’

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 63

NEW ZEALAND

H. Dawson Invests in Storage Facility H. Dawson Wool has invested further in its New Zealand operation with a state-of-the art storage facility in Timaru. The large, purpose-built warehouse is located 160 kilometres southwest of Christchurch in the country’s South Island.

This development is just one of a range of H. Dawson initiatives taking place in New Zealand, where the company has been since the 1950s. The Timaru facility is situated adjacent to the scouring plant used to process all of H. Dawson’s wool products, which means that the wool is handled and transported less, helping to maintain the wool’s quality. The storage area holds around 6,000 bales of different wool types and its location near the port of Timaru means that orders can be quickly and efficiently dispatched to countries in Asia, Europe and the United States.

Wayne Robertson the General Manager of H. Dawson Wool New Zealand, said: “We pride ourselves on our wool being not only of a great quality, but completely traceable.

Investing in our new storage facility means that we maintain control of our products at all times and we are able to assure our customers of its origin and its journey.

“We have had a long-standing partnership with the Canterbury Wool Scour facility next door to our warehouse and we are proud to work closely with them to ensure our wool is tested properly, appropriately treated and stored in optimum conditions. We welcome our customers to visit the Timaru storage facility to see for themselves the lengths we are happy to go to, to ensure they receive the best product for their needs, on time.”

64 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

Responding to changing market demand ‘Direct communication with clients and being in tune with their changing needs is fundamental to our business module’, says Peter Christensen, Director of Fuhrmann New Zealand. ‘In today’s environment it is important to be able to react quickly to changing market conditions.’

O

ne of New Zealand’s oldest wool trading companies is Fuhrmann New Zealand, based in Christchurch.

us to source the right wool for the

The company is part of the prestigious international Schneider Group that has been trading wool since 1735.

‘The Group operates around the world and it is certainly an advantage for us to be aligned to a Group with such a large international network of offices’, says Mr Christensen.

NZ also has offices in Amsterdam

Europe is Fuhrmann New Zealand’s biggest market after China. The company is represented in Europe by Jeffrey Losekoot who has extensive knowledge in New Zealand wool.

finest merino fabric and apparel to

‘We are in constant contact with our customers in Eastern and Western Europe’, says Mr Losekoot. ‘This allows

buy and rely on experienced staff to

right purpose’. Mr Losekoot is based in Biella Italy and has worked with the company for many years. Fuhrmann Netherlands, Germany, Australia and China.

The company trades in all aspects of New Zealand greasy, scoured and slipe wool. The company supplies New Zealand wool for a wide range of manufacturing purposes from the blankets and to highly specialised carpet wool. ‘Our emphasis has always been on quality control ’, explains Mr Christensen. ‘We see all the wool we ensure that our customers are always satisfied’.

CHINA

China wool textile industry navigating the challenges

By PENG Yanli China Wool Textile Association

higher year on year. China’s economy increased moderately with a softened growth rate in 2013. GDP growth rate in the first half of 2013 was 7.6%.

The per capita income of the urban population grew by 6.5% in June, 3.2 percentage points higher than the same period last year.

The first half of 2013 was good for the wool textile industry in China. In the first quarter, production and sales increased year on year. Wool yarn production from enterprises above designated size grew by 3.47% year on year in the first quarter, while wool fabrics grew 6.52%.

N

onetheless, the growth of production and sales eased in the 2nd quarter. YTD wool yarn production declined by 2.86% and YTD wool fabric production grew a mere 1.75% in June.

Although the recovery of the US economy is being seen, other countries are not faring as well, especially the long-term depressed EU economy, and this is not positive. In addition, the Chinese RMB has been forced to appreciate because of the super QE policies by some countries.

Exports are increasingly affected

by RMB appreciation and labor costs in China. Wool product

66 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

exports have been down since April.

The statistics from China Customs shows that YTD value of wool products was 3.78 billion USD in May, 2.68% lower year on year. Exports to the US market accounts for 10.5%, and 1.1% higher year on year; exports to EU accounts for 19.1%, 0.5% lower year on year; exports to Japan account for 13.2%, and 9.1% lower year on year; exports to HK account for 10.2%, 30.3% lower year on year. On the other hand, we can see an acceleration in the pace of industry transfer – exports to ASEAN accounts for 11% of total export value, 40.7%

Currently China is shifting from survival consumption for food and clothing to developing consumption for living, education, travel, etc. According to National Bureau of Statistics of China, YTD sales value of commodities of clothing, shoes, and knitwear increased 11.9% in June, 5% percentage points lower than that of June last year, and 6.1 percentage points lower than last year. In May, YTD sales of men’s suits in 100 largescale primary national retail enterprises grew 14.00% year on year, YTD sales of cashmere/ wool knitwear decreased 0.95%.

Enterprises made some progress by changing their product mix. New lines of products are constantly developed. There is a trend toward high-end and green products. Generally speaking, the industry tends to elongate the industry chain and add value to industry. According to companies’ feedback, the amount of orders for the 2nd half of the year is reducing and the prospect is not promising.

CHINA

First port of call for wool traders in China

C

ompanies from outside of China that are interested in setting up offices in China, or that are forming joint venture arrangements with Chinese wool and textile companies should consult with China Wool Textile Association (CWTA) or Nanjing Wool Market (NWM).

‘NWM should be the first point of contact for any wool company that wishes to do business in China. We are engaged in wool buying as well as facilitating effect business relationships between Chinese and foreign companies’, says Madam Yang, General Manager at NWM. ‘Although NWM is well known internationally for its China Wool Trade Fair & Information Conference’, says Madam Yang, ‘we are also a large importer of wool from around the world.

We encourage wool exporters to contact us if they are interested in using our contacts to sell their wool in China.’

the China wool industry. We can assist companies from outside China that require advise and introduction to companies here in China’, says Madam Yang.

The conference provides an

NWM membership includes woolgrowers, traders, primary processors, spinners, weavers, garment makers and retailers of wool and allied fibres all over China and also includes some foreign membership.

also offers exhibition space for

The NWM hold its annual conference each September and this attracts over 600 delegates.

This is a major conference for the wool and early wool processing industry in China and is attended by executives of all major Chinese wool buying and processing companies.

It attracts representatives of the wool processing industry, and commercial circles from within China and from all wool producing countries.

excellent opportunity for all delegates from around the world to meet with China’s biggest wool buyers, all in one place. It companies wishing to exhibit their products. The Conference is open to delegates from all around the world. Speakers at the Conference offer insight into the China wool industry and its future plans. It offers an excellent opportunity for delegates to mix with current and new clients.

More

information

about

NWM can be obtained on the English language website www.woolmarket.com.cn This website features the latest market reports, wool prices and other relevant information of interest to the international wool trade.

NWM was established in 1988

by China’s Ministry of Textile Industry. It is a sub-committee of the CWTA with the responsibility of looking after issues of the early stage wool processing sector. It is also known as the Raw Wool Committee and is based in Nanjing.

‘As a statutory authority, we deal with information exchange, wool auctions, brokering, industry training, and technology consultation within

Madam Yang, General Manager of Nanjing Wool Market and her management team Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 67

CHINA

Tianyu dominates wooltop production in China Tianyu Wool Industry (Zhangjiagang Free Trade Zone) Co., Ltd was established in 1999. It has an annual capacity of 80,000 tons of scoured wool, 20,000 tons of slivers and 5,000 tons of treated wool tops. Based on the statistics of China Wool Textile Association, the company has ranked as the number one wool top maker and scourer in China for three years in a row (2009, 2010 and 2011).

Mr Qingnan wen, Chairman Tianyu Wool

T

ianyu produces a number of new and high-tech products in Jiangsu Province, such as its versatile high-purity lanolin and tangle-free superfine scoured wool.

In 2012 Yuxin Wool Industry Co., Ltd was certified as a new and hightech enterprise. As a member of Interwoollab, Tianyu has received ISO9001 Quality Management System Certification, ISO14001 Environment System Certification, and EU Ecolabel Certification.

Tianyu is equipped with the most sophisticated scouring, combing, wool top mercerizing, shrink proofing and Basolan treatment devices in the world, including an ANDAR TWIN 3M TOPMASTER scoring line and ANDAR Basolan treatment devices from New Zealand, and a mercerizing production line from Italy. It has a number of scouring lines which can be customized for various grades and specifications of wools with 68 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2012

appropriate process parameters. These provide easy and highly efficient scouring operations which minimize connection time, reduce the need to change processing parameters, and offer stable and outstanding quality scouring. Its scouring lines consist of a scouring line for medium fleece (22.0UM and thicker), a second scouring line for fleece and good skirts (21.0UM-19.5UM and finer); and a third scouring line for superfine wool (18.5UM and finer), and a forth scouring line for skirts with low yield and high VM. Further, Tianyu has two imported top-making lines offering customized services for its high-end customers in China and other countries. Each top-making line is dedicated to wool tops of a certain specification offering sophisticated processes and a stable quality. With an outstanding professional management team and many years of experience in the industry, Tianyu is in a great position to provide quality wool top products to satisfy the needs of its world-class wool textile customers around the world.

Tianyu not only provides quality personal service in pursuit of wool production traditions, but also continues to make an effort to protect the environment and fulfill its social responsibilities. Its waste water treatment has met the requirements for

acceptable discharge. It also works with a number of universities and research institutes in China and other countries to develop liquid fertilizers from wool scouring byproducts, and organic fertilizers and landscape fertilizers from wool scouring sludge. The company has always worked toward energy saving, emission reduction and recycling of wool scouring waste water to turn waste into a product of value.

Since 2008, it has invested a total of RMB$100 million in environmental facilities.

In the meantime, Tianyu continues to enhance its corporate social responsibilities and is actively involved in charity work. Over the years, the company has always pursued its goal to contribute to society and provides financial support to communities, especially in education, aged care and religion.

Tianyu has always made, and will continue to make, an enduring effort to pursue its goals of professionalism, quality and specialty in wool.

CHINA

Lianhong - delivering wool tops, yarn and garments to the world Environmentally friendly processes and products are the cornerstone of Lianhong Textiles. This company is Oeko—Tex Standard 100 accredited, has ‘Woolmark’ and ‘Woolmark Blend’ certificates issued by the International Wool Secretariat, and is ISO9001: 2008 Quality Management System and ISO14001: 2004 Environment Management System certified.

Zha Xiao Gang, President at Lianhong Textiles

L

ianhong Textiles is one of China’s leading producers of cashmere knitting yarn, wool knitting yarn, knitted garments and wool tops. It was established in 1956 and is based in Zhangjiagang, a port city in the Yangtze Delta.

Lianhong Textiles is listed among the Top 10 Enterprises in China’s Woollen and Worsted Spinning Industry and its

70 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

cashmere yarn is recognised in the Top 10 Brands in China’s Cashmere Yarn Industry.

spinning frames from Zinser and

Lianhong Textiles has an annual production capacity of 6,000 tons of wool tops, 3,500 tons of woollen yarn, 1,000 tons of semi-worsted yarn, 3,000 tons of worsted yarn, and 2.5 million knitted garments. These products are exported to all parts of the world.

with

‘We remain focused on innovation, and research and development,’ says Mr. Zha, President at Lianhong Textiles.

‘We employ more than 1,000 people, including 200 technical personnel and personnel advancement is also high on our agenda’.

basis and have made significant

The wool top making subsidiary of Lianhong Textiles has 3 lines from Thibeau and NSC and 2 lines from Octir and Sant’Andrea.

The woollen spinning subsidiary has 15 lines from Kyowa and 6 lines from Gaudino, and has become the largest woollen yarn production base in Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghai. The worsted spinning subsidiary has 4 preparation lines from NSC and Sant’Andrea, 20,000-spindle

all winders from Schlafhorst. The knitting subsidiary is equipped 123

computerized

flat

knitting machines from Stoll.

‘In the last decade we have responded

well

to

global

demand, and we have withstood such economic tests as the Global Financial Crisis,’ Mr Zha says. ‘We have increased our overall turnover on a yearly achievements in product quality assurance. The support of local government teamwork

and

of

our

the

strong

employees

have played a crucial role. As a result we have not experienced any difficulties and business continues to improve.’

‘Our company can satisfy the demands of buyers of wool tops, yarn, and garments. We welcome enquiries

from

interested

in

customers establishing

mutually beneficial relationships with us,’ concludes Mr Zha. For more information please contact Jianwen Zhang. Email: heinrichzhang@lianhongtex. com.

Tel:

+86-512-58416016

www.lianhongtex.com

A success story spinning more than years

50

Jiangsu Lianhong Textiles Co has been supplying its customers worldwide with tops, yarn and garments for over half a century. It is one of China’s leading producers of cashmere knitting yarn, wool knitting yarn, knitted garments, and wool tops. Our range of products and our attention to quality & service always put us ahead. ✔ 6,000 tons of wool tops ✔ 3,500 tons of woollen yarn ✔ 1,000 tons of semi-worsted yarn ✔ 3,000 tons of worsted yarn ✔ 2.5 million knitted garments ✔ Woolmark certificate ✔ Woolmark Blend certificate ✔ ISO9001:2008 Quality Management System certificate ✔ ISO14001: 2004 Environment Management System certificate ✔ Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certificate

Jiangsu Lianhong Textiles Co Ltd

No. 7 Renmin Road, Miaoqiao Town, Zhangjiagang, Jiangsu, China 215615 Tel: 86-512-58416016 • Fax: 86-512-58460872 • Email: heinrichzhang@lianhongtex.com

www.lianhongtex.com

CHINA

Introduction of Jiangsu Australian Harvest Group

B

ased in the Free Trade Zone Australian Harvest is a leading company in the world wool textile industry with seven branches including fully imported scouring and Topmaking equipments and technologies as well as testing facilities.

The Company is currently producing 25,000 tones of scoured wool and 15,000 tones of wool tops. The products have won good reputation and are mainly exported with a portion to be sold into the domestic market. The company has had more than 20 years experience in wool trading and early stage processing.

Mr. Zhu Zhongxian, Chairman and President of Jiangsu Australia Harvest Group

The company has received accreditation by ISO9000 in 2001, and accreditation by Interwoollabs in 2002. The company was nominated by the Jiangsu Provincial Government in 2005 as the Reputable Enterprise with AAA rating.

Since 2005, the company has been rated by the Bank of China as the AAA credit recipient. The brand of wool top of the Australian Harvest has been elected as one of the top trading brands by the government both in 2005 and 2009.

The company was also elected and is a standing member of the China Wool Textile Association in 2006, 2008 and 2011.

In addition, Australian Harvest has been nominated to be the member of the China – Australian Joint Working Group on Wool. Since 2003, the company has been rated as one of the top 50 enterprises in the Chinese wool textile industry.

On behalf of the group, Mr. Zhu zhongxian, the Chairman and the Managing Director welcomes cooperation with clients both new and old to achieve win/ win business results in the future.

CHINA

Chinese manufacturer Woolmark & Oeko-Tex® accredited China is the world’s second-largest economy. It is the worlds’ major producer of yarn and garments. Established in 2004, Hangzhou Pashing Woollen & Fashion is a leading manufacturer and exporter of yarn and garments to the international market. It is an integrated enterprise with autonomous import and export rights, and is involved in research and development, production and sale of knitted sweaters, and a variety of woollen and semi-worsted yarns. It has its own sweater, woollen and semi-worsted plants.

Association for Research and Testing in the Field of Textile Ecology for its knitted sweaters and yarns, and has obtained the Woolmark and Woolmark Blend licence from the International Wool Secretariat. Furthermore, it has also passed the social responsibility review of the Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI).

T

he production facilities of the company are based in Xinchang County, Zhejiang Province, which cover a land area of 3.33 hectares. It has modern standard production plants with a construction area of 22,000 square metres.

At present, it has 400 employees. Its main production equipments consist of 11 sophisticated woollen production lines imported from Italy and Japan, a 1,680-spindle semi-woollen production line made in China, and 140 fully-automatic or semi-automatic German Stoll-brand or China-made computerized flat knitting machines of various types.

The company specializes in the production of all types of woollen and knitted products, conventional yarns such as 8-90 NM/2 woollen yarns, semi-worsted wool yarns, cashmere yarns, rabbit hair yarns, blended silk and cashmere yarns and Shetland wool yarns, and specially blended yarns of any combination of acrylic, cotton, 74 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

linen, modal and Tensel fibres, with an annual production of 1.5 million sweaters and 1,200 tons of various types of yarns.

The company mainly supplies yarns to large garment manufacturers in Europe, America, Japan and Mainland China, and exports 100% of its woollen and knitted products to Europe, America, Japan and other countries and regions.

With excellent technical strength, the company has a full range of specialist staff and has its own independent physicochemistry laboratory for textiles. It has received the Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 (Confidence in Textiles) certification of the International

Xinchang County is located in a hilly area with a humid climate, which is very appropriate for textile production.

It has a well-developed local industry of textiles and textile machinery, which has evolved into a sophisticated industrial cluster with a full range of support facilities for the industry. Being connected by Shangsan Freeway and Yongjin Freeway and close to Ningbo Port, it has easy access to transport, which is good for the transportation of its products.

With its focus on “quality, customers and integrity,” Hangzhou Pashing Woollen & Fashion Co., Ltd is seeking to expand into a larger market to win more customers.

For more information please contact: Telephone: + 86 571 289 122 33 Email: pashing@pashing.cn

AUSTRALIA

China Australia Wool Quality Joint Working Group

by Victor Chesky

working for a common good

Madam Peng Yanli, President of CWTA and Mr Robert Ryan, Chairman of the Federation of Australian Wool Organisations sign the General Terms & Conditions agreementat the 2012 Nanjing Wool Market Conference in Sanya China.

The Group includes all main Federation of Australian Wool Organisation members: Australian Council of Wool Exporter and Processors....................... Mr Michael Avery Australian Wool Exchange................................................................ Mr Mark Grave Australian Wool Innovation.................................................................Mr Paul Swan Australian Wool Testing Authority................................................Mr Michael Jackson Federation of Australian Wool Organisations.................. Mr Robert Ryan (Chairman) National Council of Wool Selling Brokers of Australia..................... Mr Matt Pedersen WoolProducers Australia................................................................. Mr Geoff Fisken Secretary / translator......................................................................Mr Robert Wang FAWO Secretary........................................................................ Mrs Bianca Heaney

The Chinese members of the Joint Wool Quality Working Group: China Wool Textile Association.......................................................... Mrs Peng Yanli Nanjing Wool Market................................................................Mrs Yang Xiaoxiong Tianyu Wool Industry (ZJGFTZ) CO, LTD........................................ Mr Wen Qingnan Zhangjiagang Yangtze Combing Co. Ltd...........................................Mr Ji Qianlong Jiangsu Australia Harvest Group Co. Ltd.......................................Mr Zhu Zhongxian Michell (Suzhou) Wool Co. Ltd................................................................ Mr Leo Suo Nanjing Textile Imp/Exp Corp. Ltd........................................................ Mr Feng Wei Tianjin Hengshenda International Trade Co. Ltd........................... Mr Wang Xiaolong Jiangsu CIQ..............................................................................Mrs Wang Xiaoping

76 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

T

he China Australia Wool Quality Joint Working Group was established to address issues that present themselves from time to time in wool trading practices between Australia and China.

Such a move is not surprising as China imports over 75% of the Australian wool clip every year.

Robert Ryan is the Chairman of the Federation of Australian Wool Organisationsand also chairs the Australian JWG. He spoke about the Group, its inception and current activities.

The China Australia Wool Quality Joint Working Group was originally established in 2007 to investigate wool contamination concerns and resolve ways to deal with this

AUSTRALIA

issue. The Group has since developed to encompass many other issues pertinent to a good working relationship between the Australian and Chinese wool industry.

‘To date a main achievement’, says Mr Ryan, ‘is the creation of the sale contract known as the General Terms and Conditions Governing the Purchase of Australian Greasy, Scoured and Carbonized Wool, Wool Top and all other Types of Wool Fibre.

In fact, this was an impetus for establishing the Group.

We needed a framework for dealing with issues relating to contractual obligations. This contract has been designed specifically for sales of Australian wool to China and is available in both Chinese and English.

‘Further Group discussions have

suggested that many issues could be resolved through training and education’, says Mr Ryan.

‘We actively promote training activities for Chinese wool buyers. This training includes wool classing, wool testing, understanding of wool auction procedures and Australian export rules. These education programs are run in both Australia and China’.

To further advance this education program Chinese representatives were invited to Australia in February 2012. The program included a farm visit at Lal Lal Estate, Victoria, a visit to a wool store, auction sales, and a wool testing facility.

A further young trainee group from China came to Australia in May. This visit also included a farm visit, woolstore visit,

and visits to show floors, auctions, AWTA, AWEX, and AWI. ‘Training will continue to be high on the Group agenda and organisations within the Federation of Australian Wool Organisation such as AWTA and AWEX and AWI will continue to provide ongoing training to the wool industry in China’.

Presently, discussions also include environmental issues and will refer to any new legislation that may occur from time to time that could affect the wool industry in either or both countries.

‘Building a working relationship with our buyers in China is good for all. Over time we have developed a rapport that is friendly and useful. Our meetings are beneficial to both Australia and China’, concludes Mr Ryan.

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 77

AUSTRALIA

AWEX Woolclasser Ambassador travels to China AWEX (Australian Wool Exchange) has selected a woolclasser to travel to China as woolclasser ambassador. The appointment followed a lengthy review of nearly 60 applicants for the newly created role. The 2013 Woolclasser Ambassador is Phillip Kennedy of Nyngan NSW. ‘Phillip is a worthy Woolclasser Ambassador. He has 28 years of woolclassing experience and a broad range of experience across the wool industry’, says Mark Grave AWEX CEO. ‘Phillip is also a natural communicator which is an important part of the role of Woolclasser Ambassador and he will represent his peers well.’

M

r Kennedy attended the Nanjing Wool Conference held in Suzhou city this year. The Nanjing Wool Conference is the largest wool conference of its type in the world and is attended by over 600 wool industry personnel from across China, including some of the world’s largest processors, top makers, spinners, as well as representatives from other major wool producing countries.

‘The objective of this visit is to meet with major wool processors in China to develop relationships that will increase understanding of the role played by woolclassers in Australia’, says Mr Grave.

The Australian wool industry’s reputation for the best apparel wool and the best prepared wool relies on professionally qualified AWEX woolclassers.

In the last 20 years AWEX has registered and trained over 20,000 woolclassers in Australia to

Mark Grave CEO AWEX at Nanjing Wool Market Conference

class the Australian wool clip.

It also publishes The Code of Practice - the standard set for preparing wool to meet the needs of wool processors. It is an important aspect to woolclasser registration.

‘Australian wool is prepared on farm prior to processing. It is therefore very importantfor processors of Australian wool to understand the process of quality assurance in wool preparation’.

AWEX

also

runs

training

seminars that are an additional educational

component

to

conveyinformation to Chinese wool

industry

personnel

aboutwool classing, what they 78 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

should expect from a wool consignment prepared by a woolclasser, and how the woolclasser contributes to wool quality assurance.

‘Purchasing wool without an AWEX woolclasser stencil is a risk. The buyer will not know who prepared the bale, or to what standard it has been prepared’, says Mr Grave. Wool buyers and processors around the world can easily recognise a bale of wool prepared by a registered and trained woolclasser by the unique AWEX woolclassers stencil number and identification mark place on each bale.

AWEX also presents Woolclasser Forums around Australia.

Theseforums provide a platform for the Woolclasser Ambassadorto speak about his experiences gleaned through his travel and meetings. The Boadtalk newsletter is distributed to over 20,000 woolclassers and businesses in the wool industry, including brokers, exporters and classing houses. It contains current and relevant topics which ensure that woolclassers have the latest information at their fingertips.

AWEX is committed to ensure that wool traded in Australia meets international customer standards and that these standards are communicated to all those involved in the supply chain.

AUSTRALIA

143 years of innovation continues at Michell Michell Wool sees a solid future for the Australian wool industry and continues to invest heavily in innovative new techniques in early stage processing. know where the wool is and when sheep will be ready to be shorn. We can then match this with a client’s specialized requirements”, said Mr Michell.

“It is a win, win situation. We get a guarantee of supply and growers get downstream feedback on their wool and market intelligence from Michell that would otherwise not be available.

Steven Read, CEO-Michell and Michael Whitehead, International Trading Manager inspect wool prior to processing.

T

he family has been an integral part of the Australian wool industry for more than 140 years and in that time they accumulated a wealth of knowledge in not only the early stage processing (their core business) but the requirements of their downstream clients. This knowledge has helped them work collaboratively with their clients to innovate change that benefits their client’s products and manufacturing process.

The last 5 years has seen a reinvention process spread across the whole Michell business. Since taking control of the business in 2005 the fifth generation company directors David and Peter Michell have been putting their money where the manufacture is, reengineering the scouring and carbonising process at the Salisbury factory to achieve world’s best practice in the preparation of greasy wool for the world’s woollen trade.

80 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

“We had to reinvent ourselves to remain at the top of the scouring and carbonizing process. Over the last five years we have halved our water and energy consumption. We have always had a strong focus on reducing our environmental impact but now we have proved that sustainability really is good for business. It has helped keep our costs under control and has allowed us to maintain a competitive price point while improving quality” said Peter Michell.

Continued expansion at Suzhou is underway with the installation of Mycraloft machinery that produces this unique Michell bedding grade wool . This is a superior bedding product that passes TM31 tests and is machine washable and tumble dryable. This product is used in the manufacture of quilts, doonas and other bedding applications and was pioneered in Australia and is now available in China. Other new equipment will be operational by September 2013 and will facilitate production of: • Rectified Top - This top is perfect for sliverknitters, allowing them to

“We are trying to innovate across the business and this has seen us go back to the future. This involved reconnecting directly with Australian wool growers through the establishment, in 2010, of a wool broking arm - Michell Direct Wool.

“We need to guarantee supply to our Australian and Chinese plants, and it also means we can source specific wool types/specifications for our clients. We

Quality is checked at every stage in the processing

AUSTRALIA

make high quality products with minimal waste and high density fabric.

• Felt Wool - This product is the cleanest wool available and great for high end felts with virtually no contaminants.

Adding this to the existing list of services such as: Commission Carbonising - Carbonised wool for the (Woollen, Felt, Bedding, Blanket markets).

Wool can be greasy picked and product picked.

- Loose Wool Super Wash for the (Bedding market) - High quality carbonised products.

- Competitive prices - Greasy wool inspection and advice - On line product picking Puts the Michell Suzhou plant at the peak of Chinese based wool processing.

Michell’s Adelaide plant produces the same range of carbonized product in addition to their range of scoured wools. Both plants produce APEO free products and are OekoTex Baby Class 1 certified.

Michell sees a strong future for the Australian wool industry and throughout the many ups and downs in the sector Michell always actively advised customers on new techniques, often developed through Michell R&D.

“Researching and then promoting new techniques for processing and uses for wool is something that everyone in the industry should be actively involved in. There is a real future for wool if you work collaboratively with your clients to establish innovative new ways to process wool that solve their problems, You need to be flexible and open to changing the way you do things.” said David Michell.

As one door closes another door opens for Ultimate Clip Competition In announcing the national winners of the 2013 Ultimate Clip Competition Andrew Blanch, Director of New England Wool (NEW) noted that 2013 would be the end of an era for the Ultimate Clip Competition in its current format.

T

he

Competition

was

started in 1993 by New England Wool and its

Italian

Successori

based Reda

shareholders and

Vitale

Barberis Canonico to support producers

of

commercial

quantities of superior superfine wool, judging the whole clip – not just a fleece or a bale. Each year of the competition New England Wool has purchased more than 60% of the entire fleece lines offered by those

clips that have been judged as ‘finalists’.

‘But we are making new plans for the future. Where one door closes, opportunity arises’, says Andrew Blanch. ‘At the 20th year juncture of this competition it is a good time to say farewell to the competition as we know it, and make way for different ventures that will support our wool growers into the future.’

“We’re very happy to be ending

on such a high note, with a record number of entrants making it the largest competition of its kind in the world. The Ultimate Clip Competition has served a valuable purpose for New England Wool, its shareholders and for all Australian superfine wool growers.”

National award winners this year were Chris Dunne and Linda Waters from Uralla. Their prize includes a sponsored trip to Italy to visit the spinning and weaving mills of Reda and Barberis and meetings with the chief decision makers from these prestigious companies. “The Italians are always so welcoming Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 81

AUSTRALIA

2013 National award winners Chris Dunne and Linda Waters from Uralla with Andrew Blanch

to the winners of the Ultimate Clip Competition each year”, Mr Blanch said. “They have the utmost respect for these visitors to the Biella region because they acknowledge just how integral they are to their own success. The winners’ efforts are certainly rewarded handsomely during their time in Italy”.

‘In many ways, Chris and Linda’s win absolutely sums up the spirit of the Ultimate Clip competition which has always been an avenue for providing valuable information to growers about the type of wool that New

England Wool seeks to purchase on behalf of its shareholders in Italy’, says Mr Blanch. ‘Chris and Linda prepared an outstanding clip this year. They are two of the most passionate and dedicated wool growers I know.’

Second place was awarded to the Wood Family, also from Uralla (JW/URALLA), and third place was awarded jointly to Grahame and Wendy Baxter from Guyra (GDB/NE) and Wiley, Roy and David Reeves and families of Grabben Gullen (BIA-GRAB).

The 2012 winners Janet and Tony Gall have just returned from

Tony and Janet Gall (Front left) with Reda senior staff in Italy 82 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

their visit to Reda and Barberis Canonico mills in Biella Italy.

‘The few days visiting the Reda and Vitale Barberis Canonico mills gave us a great opportunity to share our passion with the worlds premium fabric makers, and to appreciate first-hand their dedication and commitment to excellence. Our impressions will last forever’, says Tony Gall.

‘It made us feel proud that we could supply these mills with the magnificent fibre to make this possible.

‘We are indebted to New England Wool and the “Ultimate Clip Competition” for making all this possible, and for providing encouragement and recognition for the efforts of the professional superfine wool grower.’

New England Wool has consistently been the largest buyer of spinner type superfine wools (18.5u and finer) in Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. The company purchases approximately 30,000 bales per annum for its Italian shareholders and has offices in Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. Mr Blanch is also the author of A Guide to Classing and Preparation of Wool Clips 18.5u and Finer, published in 2008.

‘New England Wool will continue to communicate with growers and support them as we head into the future. Our company and its shareholders are totally committed to doing just that, and we too will be changing and evolving. There is no doubt that success will only come by understanding the requirements of the consumer and continuing to source the highest quality raw product,” he says.

AUSTRALIA

Proven formula for success

by Victor Chesky

Although there are over 40 registered wool exporters in Australia, this competitive business is dominated by a very few. So when a new player enters such a competitive space, and in a short period of time is able to climb within the top 10 exporters it must be doing something right! Australian Merino Exports has only been exporting Australian wool for some five years but already exports around 90,000 bales of wool or 12 million kgs annually. I caught up with James Thomson and Chris Kelly, principals at their Australian Merino Exports office in Melbourne, to ask them about their formula for success...

‘One of the reasons for our rapid growth is our proven reliability. We are big enough to satisfy our customers both big and small with all their wool needs while still retaining a personal relationship with each’, says James Thomson. ‘Our experience and great passion for wool has also helped.’

Both Chris Kelly and James Thomson are personally involved in every aspect of wool trading for every client. ‘We value the wool available for purchase as well as buy in the sale room which gives us added strength. We also negotiate finance terms, shipping and any other issues that may arise’, says Mr Thomson. Larger companies tend to have one person dealing with each faze and aspect of the

transaction. This can get messy.

Our method is more personal, less disjointed.’

variations in the composition of blends that will not affect quality,

main auction buyer in Australia and exports to a diverse range of customers including Europe, UK, India and Japan. It has been sourcing specific types for its customers that include Eco Wool, Tasmanian

speciality

types,

Organic Wool and Non Mulesed types. ‘We buy extensively from auction as well as from private dealers and growers and this enables us to offer our customers a wide range of wool types and

‘We can advise them regarding

the

Australian Merino Exports is a

but

may

offer

considerable savings. We have many clients that have taken our

continuous supply’, says Mr Thomson.

Australian

Merino

Exports can also supply wools of other origins such as South Africa and New Zealand wools to its customer base.

advice and adopted new wool

As to future plans for AME,

blends into their production

James Thomson comments that

with great success, and now use them as their standard types. ‘

the company will continue to service its existing clients with all their wool needs and plans to expand its customer base in Europe, China, India and Japan.

‘We are aware of the cost pressures experienced by wool processors everywhere. Our personal service and

low

overhead

business

model is a real advantage, as is our knowledge and resources in sourcing the most suitable wool at competitive prices’, concludes Mr Thomson.

For more information please contact Chris Kelly (left) and James Thomson 84 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

James

Thomson

at

trading@australianmerino.net.au

AUSTRALIA

New facility for Australia’s biggest wool exporter Techwool Trading (TWT) is one of Australia’s largest wool exporters with over 220,000 bales exported each year. It supplies all standard types from fine to medium Merino fleece wools, crossbred fleece & blend types as well as skirting and carding types. TWT traditionally values greasy wool by style, top length, tensile strength, and background colour.

E

urope is familiar territory for us. We have proven over many years that we can service the European market and we know how to do this within traditional European parameters’, says Rod Franklyn, Managing Director at TWT. ‘We understand the different requirements that exist between companies processing wool in China, India, or Europe’, In the past 10 years European wool-textile manufacturing has consolidated to compete with manufacturing in Asia. This has created a demand for a wider variety of wool types that manufacturers can use in their production processes.

‘We work closely with our clients to develop and deliver a greater variety of wool types to meet this demand’, says Josh Lamb Trading General Manager at TWT. ‘We also appreciate that our customers’

Techwool team (left to right) front row: Ken Welsh, Rod Franklyn, and Josh Lamb. Back row: Stuart Greenshields, Brendon Miller, and Geoff Stevens 86 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

Techwool’s new warehousing facility in Melbourne

need uniform deliveries of wool that will process consistently time after time.

Techwool has recently moved

‘We always take the time to discuss each customer’s needs and can advise them about the best way for any type of wool to be processed. We can advise a client what type of product is best suited to a particular wool.

We are much more than just a trading company. We are a wool company’, says Ken Welsh India Trading Manager at TWT. ‘We constantly check and assess how wool will perform best during processing.

modern facility has enabled us

Utilising direct buying and the traditional auction the company ensures that it can deliver wool at competitive prices. ‘We are one of the bigger direct/private buying companies in Australia’, says Mr Lamb. ‘We operate our own depots in Hamilton and Benalla in Victoria, and Kensington in South Australia where wool growers can bring their wool to us and receive a direct price at the depot door.’

are a wool company and we can

its head office to new and larger premises in Melbourne. ‘This to consolidate grower stocks and streamline our logisitics to provide greater efficiencies in handling’, says Josh Lamb Trading Manager TWT. The good relationship between TWT

and

its

customers

worldwide has developed over many

years.

The

company

supplies greasy wool to a large number of combing, carding and carbonizing mills. ‘We are not just a trading company, we advise mills in the best possible wool types required to achieve their desired outcome. ‘We offer our services to customers small and large and pride ourselves in providing a quality service as well as a quality product’, concluded Mr Franklyn.

For more information please contact Josh Lamb or Ken Welsh Email trading@techwool.com.au

AUSTRALIA

New website offers stress free wool buying & selling

Sell or buy wool, tops, or yarn online 24 hours a day

Check this out at www.woolbuy.net

WOOLBUY.net is a new website designed for wool buyers and sellers to display and sell their products online.

This website is free to both buyers and sellers.

‘Woolbuy is an exciting new way to buy

and sell your wool, wooltop, or yarn’, says Victor Chesky CEO International Trade Publications (ITP). ‘Simply login and see what you can buy, or login and list your wool for sale. This 24 hour interactive platform is easy to use and free to all. Anyone can log in and list their wool for sale and we are not a party to any financial transactions between buyers and sellers’, says Mr Chesky. ‘When you want to make an enquiry or buy wool you communicate directly with seller, there are no other parties involved’.

Until now there has been no independent website for a free online

sales platform. We envisage that the website will be used by sellers who have no access to auction systems, or wish to sell independently’. Woolbuy.net website facilitates direct links between buyers and sellers of greasy, carbonised and scoured wool, wool top, open top, yarn, and speciality fibres.

Woolbuy.net also provides advertising opportunities, including banner adverts that can be linked to your company website. Only a limited number of banners are available every year. The cost of a banner advertisement is USD 650.00 per month (minimum contract 4 months).

ITP also publishes a monthly online newsletter - www.woolnews.net and international trade magazines - WOOL EXPORTER CHINA and WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL. For more information please contact us on info@woolnews.net 0r log in www.woolbuy.net

Fox & Lillie - with history on its side

W

remain

wool, scoured wool, wooltops and

a leader in the supply of scoured

Managing Director of Fox

open tops. ‘Our clients rely on us as

wools to the industry. We produce an

& Lillie Australia. ‘Our customers have

a one-stop-shop for all their fibre

extensive range of very low vegetable

been relying on us at Fox & Lillie to

requirements from greasy wool to

matter scoured lambs types for the

supply the right wool for their specific

tops,’ says James Lillie. ‘We have an

hosiery industry, and also make the

requirements since 1948’.

established international network of

full range of scoured types used in the

representatives servicing our clients

woollen weaving industry, from best

in virtually every wool consuming

colour fleeces to the poorer colour

market in the world.’

short stains’, says Mr Lillie.

from all over Australia, as well as other

‘We continue to offer a comprehensive

In addition to its export division the

major wool producing countries. It

range of types, and with the expertise

company operates Fox & Lillie Rural

can supply greasy combing wools

gained

- a large wool broking and direct

more than 65 years, sourcing wool

88 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

from

owning

carbonised

we

according to James Lillie

in the Australian wool industry for

wools,

facilities,

and

The company has been a major player

carding

production

hat’s in a name? Alot,

our

own

AUSTRALIA

buying operation with a turnover of more than 90,000 bales per year. ‘We have a long and successful history of ensuring strong connections between our broking, direct buying and export division’, says Fox & Lillie Rural’s Managing Director Jonathan Lillie.

‘Through this division Fox & Lillie is able to source a substantial amount of wool directly from farms all around Australia. Both our wool growing clients and export clients benefit from this association with direct supply opportunities along with first hand access to market information’, he adds.

In 2006 Fox and Lillie partnered with OTCL in a state of the art open top processing plant in Zhangjiagang, China. ‘This 10,000 square meter factory and office building houses the only dedicated open top production facility in the world. OTCL believes that its dedication to the exclusive production of open tops will make

OTCL one of the best processors of this type of wool in China, if not the world’, says James Lillie.

‘Our shareholding in the OTCL combing mill in China has strengthened our ability to supply superior open tops to our customers’, he adds.

This mill mostly processes tops using Australian wool however it also sources wool from New Zealand, South America, South Africa, and Europe in order to increase the type range. Types range from 15.5 micron to 30.0 micron, and from 40hm to 55hm in super colour, good colour and discoloured, including the option to Superwash, and Basolan treat.

Fox & Lillie also supplies wool top from Italy. ‘Our company provides

a very personal, reliable and flexible service to our customers and we continue to embrace the simple and timeless philosophy on which the company was founded in 1948 – quality and service in wool. ‘Whatever the fineness, length or style, we can supply it,’ says Mr Lillie.

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 89

AUSTRALIA

Scouring wool in Australia makes sense There are many reasons why top makers and spinners should buy Australian scoured and carbonised wool rather than importing greasy wool to process in their own country. Firstly, and most importantly they can be confident that they are getting 100% Australian wool that has not been blended with inferior types. Australian quarantine laws prevent the importation of foreign wools onto its shores. Further, Australian scoured and carbonised wool is very competitively priced. credentials and we are constantly upgrading our effluent treatment plant, and reducing our water consumption’, says Myungjin (Jim) Kim who established VWP in 1990.

Left to right: Mr Myungjin (Jim) Kim and Paul Ferronato.

T

opmakers and spinners around the world should ask their greasy wool suppliers to quote the cost to import Australian wool in greasy and carbonised or scoured form and see which makes better financial sense if you take into account the extra interest and handling costs and environmental sense, comments David Ritchie General Manager at Victoria Wool Processors (VWP) VWP is Australia’s largest wool processor, offering a varied range of scoured and carbonised types to suit a cross section of requirements from spinners and weavers. From new season merino lambs to full length merino fleece and all crossbred types, VWP can supply a product to suit any requirement.

It also offers a full commission scouring or carbonising service tailored to each customer.

‘We have been processing Australian wool for over 20 years. We have excellent environmental 90 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

According to Mr Kim those who believe that wool processing in Australia is more expense than in Asia are wrong. The cost of labour, energy, water treatment, and transportation has risen considerably in Asia. These factors coupled with quality and cost efficiency offered by VWP gives them the edge in offering customers the best possible processing options.

‘We scour and carbonise wool at very competitively priced in Australia. It costs virtually the same as processing in China’.

‘By the time you take the cost of local transportation and storage charges into consideration and then add shipping costs that are higher for the heavier greasy wool it could be more cost advantageous for a wool processor to import scoured and carbonised, rather than greasy wool. We deliver our wool directly to the mill. It is of uniform quality and ready for processing. A further benefit to buying processed wool is that

there is no pollution to the local environment.

‘Our expertise and our advanced carbonising plant enable us to carbonise from the finest merino wool to the coarsest downs wool. Using clean Australian water combined with the latest in processing technology, our wools are well known for cleanliness, strength and consistency’, says Paul Ferronato, Senior Wool Buyer at VWP. ‘We can supply carbonised wool of all types, lengths and qualities to customers throughout the world. We can work directly with spinners to develop specific types most suited to their needs’.

VWP has wool buyers in all wool buying centres in Australia and can buy wool for customers if required. It also offers forward and prompt shipping and logistic services to all parts of the world. The company employs Chinese, Korean, Italian and Japanese speakers, making communication easy for its customers in any part of the world.

‘Scoured and carbonised wool provides a win win outcome to both exporter and processor.

Both parties receive what is specified, and they save money on transportation costs when the wool is already clean, and contamination remains in the country of origin’, concludes Mr Ferronato.

Email: paulf@vwp.com.au www.vwp.com.au

AUSTRALIA

Victoria Wool Processors

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 91

AUSTRALIA

A Clear and Positive Direction for Wool When Australian Wool Network (AWN) first entered the wool broking market in 1999 it did so in a quiet and considered way, going about its business of servicing Australian wool growers and bridging the gap between them and wool processors.

More recently, and in acknowledging its core strengths and alliances in the wool industry, the company is now looking to the future with greater vigor and determination.

M L to R; Australian Wool Network wool growing clients Will and George Grimwade, Victoria with AWN Wool Specialist Ron Creek.

92 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

anaging Director John Colley said the company has taken a clear and positive direction toward becoming Australia’s leading wool and sheep specialists. ‘Wool is our core business and continues to be our long term vision for

the company. We are strongly committed to this market segment and are seeking ways in which we can further expand our services and trading partners in the wool arena’.

Over the past 12 months the company has appointed an

AUSTRALIA

additional five wool specialists (and this is in addition to the nine appointed last year) to source wool from Australia’s key wool growing areas.

Furthermore, and to strengthen its position as a leader in the wool industry, the company has established three new wool buying divisions; in Hamilton and Horsham - the wool growing heartland of Victoria - and in Mount Gambier in the South East of South Australia.

Mr Colley said ‘The expansion into wool buying broadens our relationship with our existing wool grower base and provides an opportunity to source even more wool for our international wool trading partners.

The wool industry in Australia is certainly changing. However we are well positioned to source an even greater proportion of wool from some of the country’s best wool growers. Because the type of wool produced by our wool growing clients varies we can meet a number of different types of wool processing orders. We can source and supply wools ranging from ultra-fine merino grown on native bush runs in Tasmania and in the New England area of New South Wales, right through to broader medium and strong wool merino and even Dohne style wools.

than ever before. We are continually working with processors to provide a continuity of wool that will meet their specific requirements.’

Our long held vision to bring wool growers and wool processors closer together is stronger today

Australian Wool Network can be contacted on + 61 2 9912 6222 or via email at enews@woolnetwork. com.au or by visiting www.woolnetwork.com.au

Sell or buy wool, tops, or yarn online 24 hours a day

Australia’s best wool on offer

Check this out at www.woolbuy.net

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 93

MALAYSIA

n o i s s i m m o c n i n n a o i i s t i y s a l o a p M p s in u s e ak nd top t r e a m o g c n i New scour As China and India become less attractive due to rising costs and government regulations it is inevitable that wool processors will look for alternatives to stay competitive.

Malaysia, with its competitive labour costs and close proximity to the growing economies of South East Asia believes it can offer early wool processors another option.

C

ompass Wool Processors (CWP) is the first commission only 3 stage wool processor to set up in Malaysia. It is located inNusajaya in Johor State just 15 km from Singapore. The company has built a new 40,000 sqm plant to accommodate all of its scouring and processing requirements on one site. CWP is a subsidiary of NK Ingredients, one of the largest wool grease refineries based in Singapore.

bobbins 400mm, and shrink resist tops include - TEC/SW/ Basolan/Mercerised’,says Stefan Bernerius, Business Manager at CWP.

‘We are aiming to provide customers a one-stop-shop option for scouring and top making of sliver and open tops and providing shrink resistance treatments. We will offer bumps 400/800mm and

‘We are confident that we will become an integral part of the global wool supply chain and will be able to offer our customers a very competitive service in quality, cost and logistics. We expect to deliver our product

94 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

The company sees itself as a central hub for processing wool in South East Asia. It will deliver a finished product to customers in Europe in less than 9 - 10 weeks and offers a very real alternative to the rising costs and difficulties being experienced elsewhere in the region.

Stefan Bernerius Business Manager at CWP

to customers in Korea, Japan, India, Thailand, Indonesia, Eastern Europe, Italy, Mexico, Germany and even China’, says Mr Bernerius.

Mr Bernerius believes there are clear advantages to processing wool in Malaysia. ‘We can shorten lead times for delivery to Europe. The nearest key ports are within an hours’ drive.

Delivery of wool from Australia or any other wool origin country is straight forward and quick.

Also, we have no duties, quotas, or customs issues to deal with’.

‘Further advantages include local government support that has provided the necessary infrastructure to attract

MALAYSIA

- 30c enable reduced energy consumption in climate control and wool preparation. further foreign investment in many growth areas of social development such as education, as well as medical industries and manufacturing’.

CWP is gearing up to scour around 45 million greasy kilos of wool per year by 2015 and processing 12 million kilos of tops and treat 3 million kg. It will concentrate on processing 17.5 - 25 microns in merino wool, but will also have the technology to process extra-fine merino as fine as 14-15 microns.

In addition, the company will process crossbred types of 26 - 32 microns and is also considering opening up a processing facility to process carpet wools of 35 - 40 microns in the near future.

Environmental standards as well as good working conditions are an integral foundation to CWP business approach. An on-site water treatment facility will recycle at least 50% of its water. Capturing local rainwater for cleaning scouring is also a feature in meeting all strict local requirements. ‘Our employees will be paid within the standards of Malaysian law with full equality and no child labour. We hope to develop a sense of trust and integrity in all aspects of our business’.

Quality control is a main object for the company in relation to all processing stages. ‘We will apply for Interwoollabs accredition

and IWTO Testing Certificates, as well as certification in Oekotek 100 and EU Ecolabel, and eventually GOTS and ISO 9001/14001.

‘Our management team comes from around the globe’, says Mr Bernerius.

‘We currently have a staff of 50 but expect this to grow to around 250 when full production is reached in mid 2014.We also expect to draw from the local region as well as senior commercial and technical management personnel from Australia and the European Union.

CWP is the first Malaysian company to join the IWTO. ‘We are looking forward to participating as an active member of this world wool organisation and look forward to working with many clients from around the world and welcome enquiries regarding our products and prices’.

Stefan Bernerius can be contacted by email at processing@compasswool. com

‘We have installed textile machinery from European manufacturers that are well known for achieving a high quality finished product. We are using Andar, Octir, Thibeau, NSC, and Saint Andrea machinery.

CWP offers its customers standard Superwash (TM31), Total Care, Kroy, Mercerised soft lustre treatment and Basolan soft handle processes. The company has committed to use only EU REACH approved chemicals.

Malaysia offers ideal climate conditions for wool processing.

High humidity and consistent temperatures of between 25 Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 95

COMPASS WOOL PROCESSORS

96 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

SOUTH AFRICA

South African

Wool production increases

S

outh Africa experienced excellent seasonal conditions in the majority of wool-growing areas this past season, particularly during the early part of the season, and good rains fell in most regions.

As a result the quality of the bulk of wool deliveries has been good and clean yields have improved substantially compared with previous seasons. The quality of the wool was also exceptional with little variation with sound growth.

The good growing conditions have also contributed to an

increase in wool deliveries, which up to the final sale in June show a 10,4% increase yearon-year. Another factor that played a major role in increased production was the absence of Rift Valley Fever, which previously had a devastating effect on sheep flocks all over the country.

No outbreaks of the disease have occurred in the past two and a half years.

It also appears that many farmers did not market their lambs due to low meat prices, which resulted in an increase in lambs’ wool

received this season. A production figure of around 49 mkg is expected for the 2012/13-season.

Production for 2013/14 is expected to remain unchanged but the general expectation is for production to gradually increase over the next seasons. The current micron profile shows that the bulk of the South African clip (46%) falls in the 20-22µ-category, an increase of 1% compared with the previous season. Around 25% of the wool tested 19-20µ, with 16% testing below 19µ.

Predators remain a major problem The South African Predation Management Forum (PMF), which represents over 50 000 farmers in the wool, red meat, mohair and game industry, Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 97

SOUTH AFRICA

Increase in Merino wool offered at auction There has been a considerable increase in Merino wool offered at auction this past season compared with the previous season.

Cape Wools’ statistics indicate that a total of 213 651 Merino bales were offered compared with 194 365 bales in 2011/12 – an increase of almost 10%.

The number of bales containing other white wool increased by 5,4%.

Excellent seasonal conditions in most wool-growing areas have contributed to the increase in production this past season

has set up a database of photographic evidence of the damage caused to livestock by predators.

PMF

This database will be used when necessary to raise public awareness concerning the severity of the predator problem in the livestock industry.

of photos of predator carcasses

Predation, particularly by jackal and caracul, remains a major problem for small-stock farmers and wool producers, causing losses amounting to billions annually.

chairperson

Johannes

Klopper said the distribution created a bad impression of farmers and results in campaigns by animal rights’ activists.

“The public gets upset when up on a wire. We need to show the damage predators cause to livestock.” He urged producers to take photos of predator damage and to send these to the forum.

The PMF has also just completed the production of a pro-active DVD to improve the image of farmers and ranchers by emphasising that farmers are responsible people who care for the biodiversity of South Africa and the environment in general and not villains.

The DVD will also focus on the extent of damage caused by predation in the small stock and gaming industries as well as the financial effect and impact on

98 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

The excellent seasonal conditions also resulted in much higher clean yields this season and the average clean yield of Merino wool was 64%, which is up 1% from the previous season.

they see pictures of jackal strung the other side of the story –

Good seasonal condition has resulted in excellent wool quality

A high sales percentage was maintained throughout the season and the 99,5% of wool offered at auction was sold.

farming and production.

Increase in exports to China An analysis of wool exports to South Africa’s top export destinations this season clearly illustrates the effect Europe’s economic woes have had on shipments to that region, with shipments to most European countries down, while exports to China were up.

China remains the main destination for grease-wool with exports, increasing by 36% in volume compared with the corresponding period last season. This can be attributed largely to the normalisation of exports, which dropped considerably after the outbreak of Rift Valley Fever. No new outbreaks have been reported in

SOUTH AFRICA

shipments to Italy dropped by a substantial 40%.

While Germany’s orders for grease wool dropped by 51% and shipments of scoureds were down 33%, orders for wool top increased by 31%.

Grease-wool shipments to India also dropped sharply – down 44% on last season.

Wool top exports to France, another important market for South African wool, however, rose sharply – up 78%.

China remains the main destination for South African wool.

This season saw an increase in exports to China

over two years and the disease seems to be under control. Shipments of both grease and processed wool to Europe were markedly down.

There was a slight decrease in grease-wool exports to the Czech Republic, which were down 3%, while

There was also a substantial increase in grease-wool shipments to Egypt, a fairly new export market, which rose 80%, albeit from a low base.

Classing remains a priority At the recent annual national conference of the National Woolgrowers’ Association wool producers have been urged to maintain classing standards and comply with the standards and guidelines laid down in the South African Code of Practice for Clip Preparation.

Meticulous classing has always been an important aspect of the wool harvesting process.

One of the most important criteria of the Code is for the classer to obtain evenness of any measured or immeasurable properties within an individual line. Thus, minimum variation around properties such as micron, length, strength, vegetable matter (VM), yield, quality and appearance, is critically important.

Classing according to the standards and guidelines laid down in the South African Code of Practice for Clip Preparation remains a priority for South African producers 100 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

However, unnecessary fragmentation of a clip is not encouraged as this increases post-farm gate handling and

marketing costs and does not guarantee a higher price for the grower. The key to efficient classing is balancing these two conflicting requirements for maximizing the income from the clip as a whole.

The Code provides for a wide range of classes into which the various components of a shorn fleece can be assembled and packed for the market.

However, this does not mean that the classer has to use all of the classes available.

The second, and equally important responsibility of the classer is to identify, prevent and remove all contamination from a line of prepared wool before it is packed and pressed.

This includes wool stained with tar, urine, dung, blood, paint, branding fluids or discoloured by fungi or chemicals.

Wool from the back of the sheep that deviates in appearance, quality and VM contamination from the rest of the fleece is removed and packed separately.

Similarly, neck-fold wools, breech wool or portions of the fleece containing excessive vegetable matter is packed separately and marked with a single length symbol according to the guidelines laid down in the code.

Farmers who do their own classing regularly attend classing courses. Other farmers prefer to use the services of accredited trained classers. These classers are required to attend two oneweek courses after which a strict screening process is followed. The standard of classing achieved by these classers is monitored when the wool is received at the wool brokers’ store.

SOUTH AFRICA

Technical expertise from Standard Wool SA

M

ulesing, virtually unknown in South Africa, is a further product advantage offered by Standard Wool SA. Over the years South African merino has been bred for less skin folds.

Companies concerned about the mulesing issue can buy South African wool from Standard Wool SA knowing that this will not be a problem for them further down the processing pipeline. The company supplies both greasy and scoured wool to customers worldwide.

‘We have experience in South African greasy wool, ranging

from the lowest quality spinner style fine wools.

to

Our South African merino wool has earned a reputation for uniformity, softness and high staple strength. Although our wool doesn’t have the same specifications in yield and vm as Australian wool, if used correctly South African wool will perform just as well or even better. Users of South African wool worldwide know of these attributes and this is why we have seen such an increase in purchases worldwide’, Paul Lynch joint managing director at Standard Wool SA.

Mark Wright (left) and Paul Lynch with South African scoured wool

Standard Wool SA is quick to point out that while it is a large enough company to guarantee supply, it is not too big to stint on quality service and quality product. All wool is tested by an independent

Exporters of South African greasy scoured, carbonized wool

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 101

SOUTH AFRICA

IWTO-accredited

laboratory

(Wool

strongest asset”. ‘I think we must be

wool. ‘Our processed products and

Testing Bureau of South Africa) and

perfectionists’, says Mr Wright. ‘We

greasy wool prices are competitive

IWTO test certificates are used as a

employ the very best technical people.

and we ensure that the correct wool is

basis of trading as per the international

Our people are experts at what they

bought to produce the correct product

norm. According to Mark Wright joint

do and have a deep knowledge and

at the right price. We will be working

managing director at Standard Wool

understanding of our product. And

hard to ensure that our customers

SA, the company checks its wool for

then Mark and I check it all again

have their orders filled on time and to

before our customers receive their

budget.

quality not once, but twice, before it leaves the brokers store for transport

orders each and every time’.

to its clients around the world. ‘We

Standard Wool SA buys in the region of

Paul Lynch at paul@standardwool.co.za

employ the best technical experts

100 000 bales each year, the majority

or Mark Wright mark@standardwool.

in South Africa. Our people are our

of those bales are exported as greasy

co.za

For more information please contact

H. Dawson Wool Returns to South Africa H. Dawson Wool is proud to announce that it has returned to South Africa, where it first opened an office in 1969, to restart the business and help breathe new life into the country’s wool industry.

The office, which is located in Port Elizabeth in the beautiful region of the Eastern Cape, will be a hub for customers and suppliers to find out more about what H. Dawson Wool has to offer. The company is proud to be back in South Africa, where it is looking forward to sourcing some of the area’s finest wools, including Merino, German Merino and Crossbreds.

In recent years, South African wool has become very popular in China and exports to the country have significantly increased. This move has offered H Dawson South Africa a great opportunity to restart the business under the leadership of Ivan Smith, who is working very closely with the extremely experienced, knowledgeable and well-respected HD Beijing team.

H Dawson South Africa is planning to focus on the Chinese, Indian and European markets. The team includes Ivan Smith and Lizelle Marais, who have the contacts, the industry knowledge and the ability to ensure the highest quality South Africa wool is supplied to customers in China.

102 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

Ivan Smith

CEO of H. Dawson Wool, Jo Dawson, said: “H. Dawson Wool is proud of its international reach and to re-open the office in South Africa will enable us to further strengthen our position in the global wool market. By investing in this area, not only are we sending out a strong message to suppliers and buyers that South Africa has some fantastic wool products, but we can

Lizelle Marais

continue to tell consumers that wool matters, wool is fashionable and wool is desirable.” Ivan Smith said: “South African wool has for many years been acknowledged for its great processing characteristics due to good classing standards maintained in South Africa. This, coupled with strong client relations, will be the basis of our approach. H. Dawson Wool has been around for 125 years and reopening our South Africa office shows foresight and determination to once again become a key supplier of merino wool.”

We are very well positioned all over the world in strategic locations, which means we can deliver wool quickly to customers wherever they are based.

Our wide reach and our expertise in the international market means we are able to listen to customers, really understand what they need and guarantee them a reliable, consistent product and service. Our customers are looking for that traditional combination of consistent deliveries and a great service and everyone at H. Dawson Wool is committed to ensure our customers’ needs are met every time’, says Ivan Smith.

Contact HDSA on office +27 41 4842021 or mobile +27 83 459 2242.

Twitter @HDawsonWool

SOUTH AFRICA

in tune with fast-moving fashion trends ‘Hinterveld products are not only striking in beautiful colour and design, but also in creative composition and construction’, says Jackie Gant at Hinterveld. ‘Every year our team works hard to refresh our product portfolio, ensuring that customers receive an on-going delight in ‘something new’. Collaborations with both well-known as well as up-and-coming designers is proving to be a positive strategy for the company.

Extensive investment and commitment to product development and marketing, including regular participation at international trade fairs, ensures Hinterveld remains firmly in touch with fast-moving fashion trends.’

H

interveld is part of a vertically integrated textile manufacturing group. The group sources its mohair and wool from the farmer at South African source. At primary processing stage (at the original mill, Gubb&Inggs), the raw fibre is cleaned and combed into tops, which are then spun into yarns (at the spinning mill, MSSA,)and the yarns then dyed (at the dye house, Speciality Yarn Dyers) and woven into fabric for the manufacture of throws, blankets and accessories, at Hinterveld.

Hinterveld is a dedicated weaver of mohair and other natural fibres such as wool, silk, cotton and linen. The mill is situation in Uitenhage in the greater Nelson Mandela Bay area, in the Eastern Cape of South Africa. It is owned by the Stucken Group, as well as a minority shareholder from Australia, St. Albans.

‘Our clients are discerning, stylish, love beautiful things, value authenticity and appreciate good contemporary design.

Hinterveld resonates with them for all these reasons, while the personal experience of the genuine warmth, comfort and elegance that a Hinterveld product brings to their everyday lives, wins their hearts!’, says Jackie Gant.

‘Our weaving mill is flexible and offers an array of production capabilities. Our Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 103

SOUTH AFRICA

a private label service which allows clients to have their labels stitched onto the blankets produced for them. ‘Sometimes a client will know precisely what they want from the start and we manufacture accordingly.

However, sometimes we present design suggestions from which the basis for a project is born. Either way, we are proud to be growing a reputation for our creativity, product quality, and customer service’, says Mrs Gant.

principle focus will always remain on being a natural fibres based operation.

This fact, together with our flexibility, thanks to our vertically integrated operations, is what sets us apart.’

Hinterveld started out as only weaving throws, blankets, and accessories (scarves, shawls, cushion covers), but today, it manufactures fabric by the meter. ‘We are constantly experimenting with new yarns that give an exciting hand knitted effect, but are produced by industrial weaving machinery. We are able to produce respectable volumes in short time frames, whilst maintaining a product look and finish that remains exciting, original, and on trend. We like to work closely with our clients, from design to delivery.’ Hinterveld offers

two types of supply options. Firstly, a stock supported range which includes a rich choice of varying qualities, compositions, and fresh colours and designs. These are available for immediate shipment and no minimums apply. Secondly, it offers

Hinterveld is committed to making a meaningful contribution to society. To this end it is involved in developing and exploring dynamic ways to involve the less fortunate members of society, in order to improve their circumstances by creating opportunities that promote dignity and self-worth.

Lempriere South Africa variety of South African wools, from crossbreds to superfine spinners’ wool and offers forward contracts, delivering promptly to specification’, says Angus Hooke, Lempriere SA Manager. ‘Our shipping department can ship to all parts of the world and guarantees clear documentation and on time deliveries.

We are also well-known for supply quality product at the right price.’

Lempriere South Africa front row, left to right – Angus Hooke, Martin Botha. Back row, left to right – Mariska Strydom, Wimpie Mueller, Amanda Bouten

L

empriere Group has been sourcing and processing wool for over 150 years. Lempriere South Africa is an integral component of this global wool sourcing, buying and processing network. It has been exporting South African wool for more than a decade. ‘Lempriere buys a wide 104 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

The main markets for Lempriere SA’s wools China, India, Europe and the Americas. South African wools are all non-mulesed and Lempriere can offer certification to clients on request.

Merino wools produced in South Africa has excellent characteristics, high staple strengths and is well known for its uniformity. Because of these characteristics it is often preferred by some international textile manufacturers. In the last few years the clip has seen significant increase in production of 19 - 20 micron wool and this now represents over 25% of

the total clip. Around 98% of the clip tested 24 micron and finer with 16% below 19 microns. This wool is well classed and known as excellent apparel wool for fashion markets.

The Code of Best Practice for clip preparation facilities

are

ensures well

that

shearing

managed

and

wool bales free of contamination.

Approximately 50 000 000kg was sold in 2012/2013 season of which 90% have been sold via auction system and 10% privately. Lempriere SA bought 65 845 of the 326 475 bales offered at auction.

‘Our young and dynamic team at Lempriere SA has more than 35 years of combined experience in the wool industry and we are constantly seeking new opportunities in this ever changing market’, says Mr Hooke.

Lempriere South Africa can be contacted at wool@lempriere.com.au

MOHAIR SA

Mohair surges ahead as fibre of choice D

espite the economic doom and gloom that has seen many commodities battle to survive, mohair producers have had much to smile about this summer as prices in most categories reached new record heights. The continued strong demand for kids’ and young goats’ hair resulted in the average market indicator gaining 44% and 23, 5% respectively since the 2012 summer season.

be ascribed only to a temperamental fashion cycle. Credit

How did this happen when all around the rest were tumbling?

our noble fibre, and mohair became the best kept secret in

Although driven by the strong demand in the knitting and velour sectors for young goats’ hair and the long awaited return of the mohair look in worsted mohair cloth for which kids’ hair is used, this recrudescence should not

As a result, MSA, a non-profit company managing the

should be given for the brave decision by the industry organisation in South Africa, Mohair South Africa (MSA), to take responsibility for marketing its own product.

After a lack of focus on marketing or promotional awareness since the demise of the International Mohair Association in 2001, a generation of young designers and consumers grew up without any knowledge or awareness of – or liking for – the world. interests of the entire mohair industry in South Africa, was left with no choice but to adopt the international generic marketing role.

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 105

MOHAIR SA

A

ssuming

this

responsibility

for such a versatile fibre that reaches across so many uses

is a daunting task. Understanding the niche market sectors where mohair is utilised takes time, understanding, energy and commitment. In fact, marketing the fibre effectively on a global scale, with the South African currency being what it is, demands mercurial financial wizardry!

Mohair is indeed a very versatile fibre and its uses are often determined by its micron count. The lower the micron, the closer to the skin the mohair can be worn, and this is where most of the kids’ and young goats’ hair is utilised in the knitting and fine worsted fabric 106 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

sectors. The higher the micron, the stronger the application that it is suitable for. This is contained in the adult sector of the flock. Adult hair is often used for carpets and commercial applications where the hardwearing and lustre properties of the mohair are utilised.

furniture fair which is held annually in April and is the largest of its kind in the world. It showcases the latest in furniture design from countries across the world and is considered to be a leading venue for new products by designers of furniture, lighting and interiors.

The first faltering steps into the marketing journey that MSA embarked upon in 2010 in collaboration with Li Edelkoort now seem to be paying dividends. As a respected and worldrenowned trend forecaster, Li did much to focus the attention of the world on the fibre in general, and the marketing team have now endeavoured to investigate and to promote every niche sector in an effort to expand its horizons, increase its market share and create opportunities for new uses, while simultaneously stimulating the interest of young designers.

During the fair, Casalis, a company that produces carpets, plaids, and pouffes and which aspires to explore all interior design possibilities, dedicated most of its stand to mohair, which included its new wall-to-wall mohair carpeting range, as well as customised pieces woven with a new weaving technique and made from 100% mohair yarn.

One of the drawbacks of not being commercially market-focussed was that the image of the fibre had stagnated.

What was needed for renewed interest was innovative, cutting-edge design and technological creativity, and to this end MSA collaborated with innovative interior design companies at Salon di Mobile, the Milanese

To further enhance its understanding of commercial contract assignments for interiors, MSA was invited to attend NeoCon in Chicago as guest of the Vescom group of companies.

NeoCon is viewed as one of Vescom’s most successful and influential trading arenas and marketing team soon saw why! The Vescom stand exhibited several mohair velour samples and made good use of the opportunity to launch new mohair patterned velour.

The team also attended some insightful seminars. The message from all of

MOHAIR SA

these workshops was that mohair is on trend as far as the demand for luxury natural fabrics of quality, including carpets, is concerned. New technology and fibre combinations are leading the way in developing new applications for and fresh perspectives on acoustic materials – and of course mohair velour will always retain a classic elegance that will add supreme value to any interior.

T

he knitting sector, which includes both machine and handknitting yarn, is a very important segment of the mohair market and is showing a great resurgence as crafters and knitters grab the needles to knit away their financial woes or satisfy emotional and creative needs alike.

After a quiet season in 2012 in terms of Chinese importers of South African mohair, exports to that country have surged during the first half of 2013, thanks mainly to the fancy yarn sector aimed at machine knitting.

MSA had a very prominent generic mohair presence at the Spin Expo in Shanghai at its winter show in March this year. There is a thirst for technical knowledge and know-how in this market sector and the Spin Expo is

a valuable platform for exchanging much-prized information on design and manufacturing which speaks directly to the Chinese manufacturing sector.

Mohair and alpaca formed part of the Fibre Lounge, an exclusive exhibition space focusing on seasonal trends.

Shifting its marketing energy to the other side of the globe also saw the marketing team address the very lucrative craft and handknitting market in the USA when, in April this year, the team participated in Vogue Knitting Live, one of America’s largest live experimental knitting events.

This is a very vibrant marketplace for handknitting in a sector that consumes millions of kilograms of yarn, and where a passion for handknitting and crocheting still rules supreme.

With terms like ‘gorilla knitting’,‘ yarn bombing’ and ‘kniterati’ in the air, it was clear to see that there is enormous enthusiasm and creative energy in this market. People knit for the pure pleasure of it and seem to express a creative need while doing so. Knitting events have become quite an effective marketing technique, and it is not uncommon to see public statues ‘bombed’ with yarn – meaning

Mohair SA marketing team left to right: Anle Marais and Lindsay Humphreys

that statues are covered in knitted garments to draw attention to public issues. The knitting craze has taken the USA market by storm and ignoring its potential would be foolhardy … as well as being economic suicide for the natural fibre trade.

The presence of Steven Be, a renowned kniterati from Minneapolis in the USA, at a handknitting workshop held recently in Port Elizabeth, the mohair capital of the world, saw many amateur and professional knitters flock to the venue for new inspiration, knitting techniques and advice, proving that all continents have now caught the knitting fever, for which the only antidote is creative Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 107

MOHAIR SA

and exciting new yarns! The debate on where the available marketing budget would be best spent – on local or on international consumers – will probably always be with us … but MSA decided that, given the fact that a large part of our local economy is emerging and has great spending potential, it would be unwise to ignore the local market.

This has seen the team participating in local derbies like the Kirkwood Wildsfees, a very popular local festival that stretches over 3 days and where more than 40 000 feet – all possible buyers –pay steep entrance fees to attend an outdoor festival focussed on game and lifestyle. Here the company sponsored the venue – a very upmarket marquis tent that was beautifully merchandised so that local manufacturers could offer their goods

for sale to the public. The trade during these three days was phenomenal, underscoring the need to bring our product to the people in the right upmarket format and in a relaxed atmosphere.

Design continues to play an important focal role in the way forward and the team has identified the need to encourage innovation in the local South African arena. The Design Indaba in Cape Town has become the showcase of African design and talent and every year MSA encourages interactive opportunities for companies and designers to form part of its exhibition. In 2012, Li Edelkoort and her team from Paris, Collectif France Tricot, took an innovative new look at knitting and crafts and featured events like guerrilla knitting where students knitted ‘around’ live models, drawing

much attention to the DIY movement.

In 2013, the stall featured the mohair and wool felted nest by Porky Hefer, a creative designer who uses natural elements in creative designs in order to call attention to environmental issues.

What started off as tentative steps in the marketing world to bring this niche specialty fibre to the attention of consumers seems to be encouraging bolder moves towards cementing it in its rightful place in the textile market.

What has become patently clear is that unless you tell the world about your product and keep people excited about it, you run the risk of obscurity. In the words of Milan Kundera ‘Business has only two functions and responsibilities – marketing and innovation. Success normally follows on these.’

Mohair regains its lustre Producing natural fibres successfully in a fairly hostile economic and environmental climate where the normal rules pertaining to profit margins apply takes insight, determination and plain old-fashioned guts.

T

by Deon Saayman Mohair SA

here was a time during the mohair boom period in the mid-eighties when it seemed inconceivable that mohair would lose its price lustre, but that was before producers were confronted by new production cost increases that put enormous pressure on their profit margins.

Thankfully, there seems to be a tenacious determination among South African producers not to accept defeat. They masterfully identified and confronted some of the issues that stood in the way and now the mohair price seems to be regaining its shine in leaps and bounds.

Confronted by new labour legislation, predator losses, an inability to increase production because of expanding

108 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

game farms, and marginal profitability saw South African mohair production drop to an all-time low of 2, 23 million kg in 2011.

Some production issues were easier to overcome than others. For instance, good seasonal rains contributed to excellent grazing conditions in the production areas, seemingly heralding a turnabout in the delivery of mohair that began in 2012, which increased production for the first time in 23 years! Official figures record an increase of 3-4% of volumes weighed in and offered on auctions in the summer selling season of 2013. This is good news for users and the industry in general, ensuring that a sustainable production level can be guaranteed for the industry going forward.

MOHAIR SA

The exceptional quality of the clip, which could be ascribed to the outstanding grazing conditions, contributed to keen competition among the buying houses, and record prices for all types seemed to be the norm at every sale.

The continued strong demand for kids’ and young goats’ hair resulted in the average market indicator for these two sectors gaining 44% and 23, 5% respectively since the 2012 summer season. Young goats are still driven by the velour sector, as well as the substantial growth in the handknitting sector, while kid mohair is experiencing a long-awaited return to the mohair look in fine worsteds, supported to a large degree by some of the top brands showcasing new developments in mohair cloth. The return of this sector of the market in the Asian Pacific countries has also enhanced competition for the kids’ hair on offer. The excellent quality of hair offered, coupled by strong demand, led to a world record price of R601,00/kg being paid for a bale of super-style 24 micron kid mohair.

The adult market also showed significant gains from the 2012 summer season and a resilient turnaround from the pressure experienced during the 2012 winter season.

After a quiet season from Chinese mohair importers in 2012, it was pleasing to notice their renewed market interest in 2013. The good performance of the adult sector was driven by a strong demand from China, as well as by the greasy exporters entering into the market to secure sufficient supplies of the good quality clip.

MSA has been watching the mohair market in China with interest and noticed a keen interest in and a thirst for knowledge of mohair spinning from Chinese manufacturers and spinners alike during the Spin Expo trade show in Shanghai. Educating manufacturers and consumers on the vast continent of China on the properties, qualities and design possibilities of mohair remains a challenge, but even so offers tremendous economic advantages for the fibre. Timely intervention and assistance to South African producers from the Mohair Trust, aimed at serious implementation of solutions to production problems, did much to change the status quo.

The appointment of a vet with specialised knowledge of the husbandry needs of the Angora goat will contribute greatly to addressing the veterinary concerns of the producers. This vet is at the disposal of producers to help solve industry problems, address meaningful animal health issues and represent the industry on executive research and veterinary health forums.

The economic growth in China will remain the unknown factor in respect of future demand for the adult sector, but this risk should be cancelled out to a degree by and upswing in demand What has also become patently clear Mohair fashion on display, for the adult sector fromdesigns the greasy is that there is a greater awareness of

by Kelly Esterhuyse exporters. the carbon footprint of textiles and

that consumers are becoming more sensitive to the origins and production cycle of their products. When Miyuki Keori, a top Japanese worsted fabric company, awards a trophy for sustainable mohair production, this also puts responsible stewardship of resources and production methods in the limelight. The mohair industry has been proactive in this matter and has produced sustainable guidelines to encourage social, economic and ethical norms and standards for mohair production. What is pleasing is that the sustainable verification process of competitors for the Miyuki Competition is now officially being conducted by an independent qualified authority.

MSA has taken the responsibility for marketing and promoting mohair generically squarely on its shoulders, but carrying out this mandate in an effective manner takes enormous resources, energy and knowledge, and its success will depend on partner developments and marketing collaborations. So much more can be achieved as a strong, united team.

So, let us clear the fluff, spin the yarn and spread the mohair story together!

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 109

HUNGARY

Statistically Speaking World sheep population:

Increasing interest in Hungarian wool Hungary is becoming an increasingly attractive trading partner. It has a reliable workforce, sound infrastructure, is centrally located in the heart of Europe, and labour costs are still relatively low.

China 134,000,000 Russian Federation 79,529,000 India 74,731,000 Australia 73,099,000 Iran 54,000,000 Sudan 52,079,000 Nigeria 36,230,000 United Kingdom 31,395,000 New Zealand 31,130,000 Pakistan 28,078,000 Ethiopia 25,254,000 South Africa 24,600,000 Turkey 20,923,000 Spain 18,181,000 Syria 15,046,000 Uruguay 7,500,000 World total (including other countries) 1,084,305,000

in its two warehouses.

It is an established broker and exporter of 100% Hungarian merino wool.

‘We sell pure Hungarian merino wool in the 23 – 24.5micron range. The vm is 1.5 to 2.5% because we keep the sheep inside for 3 months of the year.

Our wool is good for top making’, says János Vass, company director at Hungarowool. Hungarowool packs quality Hungarian greasy merino wool for export in 24 ton container lots.

Each bale is packed in 350 – 400 kg bales in jute or synthetic packaging.

The company was established in 1997 and Mr János Vass, has been working in the local wool industry for over 30 years.

source: IWTO Wool Statistics 2012

World Production of Clean Raw Wool

János Vass with selected wool delivered to Hungarowool warehouse from neighbouring farms

Australia 244,958* China 165,090 New Zealand 130,870* ungary is historically well Russian 98,457 known as a wool growing India 36,800 country. Today wool is grown Argentina 33,337* by local farmers running merino South Africa 28,065* flocks, usually small herds of between Sudan 27,500

H

Iran 24,750 Uruguay 24,693* United Kingdom 22,016 Other countries 265,488 World Total (including other countries) 1,102,064 *Production on seasonal basis measured in tonnes Source: IWTO Wool Statistics 2012 Production figures include fleece wool, and skin wool from sheep handled through the abattoirs.

600 – 1000 head. There are some larger

farms that operate with some 6,000 head. These sheep are kept in sheds for some three months each year, due to the harsh winters in Hungary. This protects the quality of the wool from weather damage but does not affect the colour which is off white.

Hungarowool is a well established Hungarian wool export company that collects wool from these farms and sorts to individual client specification

110 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

‘Like many of the people we employ today I started in the wool sorting rooms. Some of our people have 15 – 20 years experience and we are training younger people too. We don’t want to lose the expertise we have built up over time so training is very important to us’.

‘We export 100% Hungarian fleece’, says Mr Vass. ‘Over the years the quality of our Hungarian merino has been improved by the introduction of Australian merino. Our company guarantees its product and we provide testing certificates from Wool Testing Authority Europe (WTAE)’.

Past testing of Hungarian wool by New Zealand Wool Testing Authority (NZWTA) has shown the staple strength at 35 N/KT. This result demonstrated that there was no weak positioning along the fibre and that it could be

HUNGARY

Local farmer with his Merino flock outside Kiskunfelegyhaza

relationships with wool producers in neighbouring countries such as Romania and we are able to sell their wool on request’, says Mr Vass.

Hungarowool office is situated in the picturesque

Hungarian

countryside

surrounded by farms less than two hours drive from the capital city of Budapest. ‘We invite interested buyers used by spinners at a maximum speed

packed for export. Wool export is

to visit us in Kiskunfelegyhaza to view

with maximum breakage / downtime.

a small industry in Hungary with

our pure Hungarian merino wool’.

Hungarowool’s

in

around 1 – 1.2 million sheep, says Mr

For more information about Hungarian

the same locality as the farms where

Vass. ‘We know the farmers and we

Merino Wool please contact János Vass

the raw wool is sourced, sorted and

know the sheep’. ‘We also have good

at hungarowool@freemail.hu

warehouses

are

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 111

GEORGIA

Georgian wool logical new choice Georgian sheep have a very long history. The ancient legend of the Golden Fleece relates the story of the Argonauts journey to Kolkheti (a Georgian territory) to obtain the Golden Fleece.

Agriculture Department is set to boost growth.

Wool buyers across the globe are increasingly exploring alternative wool supplies. Wool sourced from Georgian is such an option, offering an opportunity for buyers to use this wool as a viable alternative in its own right or to blend with other wools.

Today Georgia is rapidly developing its wool export market, reaching out beyond its European borders. It now produces around 700 tonne every year. It currently exports all wool in greasy form.

Beka Gonashvili during lambing season on his farm in Georgia

T

here are two types of sheep reared in Georgia today. The Tushuri sheep is mostly grown in the Eastern part of the country and the Imeruli sheep, mostly grown in the Western part of the country. Imeruli have a coarser

112 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

wool and its uniqueness is in its reproduction functions. It can be bred any time of the year, about 2-3 sheep per gestation period and its pregnancy period is shorter, about 137-143 days.

The agricultural sector in Georgia, is experiencing a revival in interest. The industry of sheep for meat as well as sheep for wool is developing fast in Georgia, a nation state in the Caucasus.

The existing market both locally and abroad is growing. The demand in Georgian products is gaining momentum. The new government, recently elected in Georgia, is looking at rebuilding the agricultural sector and in particular the historically vibrant Georgian wool industry.

This support from the Georgian

Situated at the crossroads between Europe and Asia, Georgia has a unique and ancient cultural heritage. It is famed for its traditions of hospitality and cuisine. It is a very mountainous country with diverse climate conditions and is an ex-Soviet Republic that runs along the Great Caucasian Range. Animal husbandry, mainly the keeping of cattle, pigs, and sheep, account for about 25% of Georgia’s agricultural output.

The change to better farming practices, in particular in sheep and wool is spearheaded by the Sheep Breeders Association in Georgia. Together with the Georgian government it is assisting and educating Georgian sheep growers to become more productive and more quality driven.

GEORGIA

Mr Beka Gonashvili who heads the Sheep Breeders Association in Georgia says the Association supports farmers in seeking export partners for their wool and seeks to promote knowledge about Georgian wools. It was established by farmers and sheep owners under the protection of Ministry of Agriculture of Georgia.

‘Our goal is to provide all the help necessary for sheep owners in Georgia to communication with government structures and potential buyers of their products’. Mr Gonashvili is making great inroads into modernising agricultural practices. His animal husbandry business is also one of the largest in the country and is wellestablished and operating to recognised standards.

‘Our wool has an average fibre

length of 110-160 MMAverage fibre fineness 31-32 microns yield 75% Moisture 15-17% Grease content 3-5 % Burr content 1.3% approx., and is white in colour’.

The sheep are shorn twice a year and lambs once each year.

Shearing occurs in spring and summer (August) and lambs in summer only (July). Wool shorn in summer is a better quality and is cleaner.

‘Our sheep are grown in a 100% eco-friendly environment. They feed on our natural grasses all year around. Our ewes give birth at the end of January - February, in the Eastern part of the country where the winter is warm and the grass is good.

Each sheep can give about 2-2.5 kilograms of wool and a lamb about 1-1.5 kilograms. The annual production capacity is

therefore 1,700,000 kilograms of wool per year. The domestic price per kilo is about $6 USD. Georgian sheep are also attractive in terms of milk production, especially for cheese production. It gives less milk than a cow, about 1-2 litres, however its milk is full of fat and is considered a healthy alternative. ‘And it is important to note’, says Mr Gonashvili ‘that exports of wool will grow as an interest in Georgian sheep for meat trends up, due to world food demand’.

‘Sheep and wool farming is now very popular in Georgia and we are keen to establish contact with buyers around the world’, says Mr Gonashvili.

Mr Gonashvili can be contacted at beka@me.com

Georgian Wool 100% natural • Average fibre length of 110-160 MMAverage • Fibre fineness 31-32 microns • Yield 75% • Moisture 15-17% • Grease content 3-5 % • Burr content 1.3% approx • White in colour

Georgian Livestock Export LLC 15th, 3-rd Kheivani St. Tbilisi, Georgia E-mail: BEKA@me.com Tel: +995 599 56 71 31; +995 558 07 77 66 General Director - BEKA GONASHVILI

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 113

GERMANY

Delivery in a few short days ‘Supplying wool all over Europe and delivering orders within short lead times is what we at Global Wool does best’, Otto Kettenburg one of four company directors at Global Wool in Bremen, Germany.

T

he company delivers to any destination within Europe usually in a couple of days. Stock includes wooltops, open tops / broken tops, carbonized wool, carbonized noils, scoured wool, greasy wool, noils, wool waste, spinning waste, synthetic waste, and selected specialty fibres. ‘Our main warehouse is located in Bremen, an historic trading spot for wool’, says Christoph Behrens. Stock is also available from warehouses in Prato and Verviers.

Global Wool provides a wide range of products including some 180 types from 25 different origins. ‘We have expanded our staff to ensure that we are

114 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

always able to provide quality advice and service to our customers’, says Mr Kettenburg. ‘We have continued to expand with a greater product range and provide our customers with quick and flexible delivery’.

‘We are a forward looking company, with a vibrant and experienced team and a commitment to the industry.

Each company partner specialised in different areas from greasy to yarn.

Our team includes Otto Kettenburg, Jochen Bremer, Christoph Behrens and Fabian Knappik. We believe that to be prepared for the challenges that lie ahead for our industry, and to keep the profession of the wool merchant

alive, we would do our part to ensure that the next generation could acquire the knowledge and love of wool that is integral to us’, says Jochen Bremer.

Where some companies cannot hold large stocks due to financial constraints Global Wool does. ‘We can deliver one bale or a full truck and pride ourselves on delivering right the first time’.

A prompt supply is facilitated by good stock and on forward delivery terms from origin. This enables a high level of flexibility to the customer, and includes a service where customers can place orders that may combine various types and quantities in a single shipment.

For more information please contact Global Wool at info@global-wool.de Phone +49 4269 104478

GERMANY

Secure storage for wool imports to Europe

E

xporters of greasy, scoured wool and wool tops are under consistent pressure from their customers in Europe to deliver with speed and certainty. The competitive market today suggests that a customer is less likely to wait for 60 days for his consignment to be delivered from South Africa, Uruguay or Australia.

It makes sense to keep stock in safe secure storage in Europe for immediate delivery.

Bremer Woll Services (BWS) provides secure storage facilities for exporters of wool and wool related products in Europe. The company utilises ex BWK warehousing facilities in Bremen, Germany. ‘Bremen is still the best point of entrance for wool into Europe’, says Benedykt Nadolski. Mr Nadolski has over 30 years experience in wool handling and transportation working as transport manager for BWK. He is

also an experienced wool sorter and therefore understands wool and how to deal with it.

BWS is a storage company and is not involved in wool trading. It has secure warehousing facilities and can arrange transport to all destinations in Eastern and Western Europe. ‘We can hold exporters consignments in bond warehousing and so forestall the 2% duty payable until it is sold. We have a fully computerized system and can handle all documentation for exporters from around the world from customs to delivering to bonded warehousing and final transportation to the end customer. We offer a very personal and competitive cost structure to our clients’, says Mr Nadolski.

Benedykt Nadolski at one of two warehouses where wool is stored for customers around the world

‘We have extensive experience in handling wool and wool related products because we have been doing

BWS can be contacted at E b.nadolski@bws-bremen.de Tel. + 49 421 6091 253

it for BWK for many years. Bremen has been a point of entrance for greasy and scoured wool as well as woollen tops and we are ideally located to assist in secure storage facilities’ says Mr Nadolski.

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 115

GERMANY

BWHK - stock available now

Bremer Wollhandelskontor GmbH (BWHK) has stock on hand. ‘Although some wool types will be in short supply this season, we have wool in stock to supply our customers as and when they need it’, says Jens Behrmann, Director at BWHK.

T

ops, anti-shrink treated tops and greasy wool are the main products BWHK

is offering to its customers.

‘We are known for quality in supplying finer types from 23 microns and finer. These types of tops are no longer widely produced in Europe, however we can supply and we can deliver quickly if required. Our European clients receive a justin-time stock service on a wide

Within its product range BWHK supplies E-TEC Non-chlorinated Anti-Shrink Wool Tops. This product is IMO/GOTS Certified and is exclusive to BWHK. ‘It has a softer touch compared with conventional treatments and is odour free. This treatment also results in a brilliant white, superior colour compared with conventional treatments and superior nepp characteristics.

It is also Anti-Shrink to TM31

warehouse in Bremen’, says Mr Behrmann.

BWHK is located in Bremen, and is ideally positioned as a major hub for transporting wool throughout Europe, as well as being near to the main deep sea ports of Bremerhaven and Hamburg for exports to clients.

It

operates

an anti-shrink proofing plant processing

superwash,

chlorinated E-TEC

non

, shrink

proof wool specialising in finer micron tops.

116 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

Standards’, says Mr Behrmann.

BWHK supplies organic certified wool tops in which the supplychain from the farm to the comber are IMO/GOTS certified, with focus on environmental and socially responsible manufacturing, throughout the textile chain. It provides a credible and certified organic assurance to it’s down stream customers.

‘Where other processors stick to the standard specifications when processing tops, at BWHK we constantly try to achieve the highest standards – thinking outside the square. We are always prepared to try new techniques’. BWHK sources and selects raw material using its long experience in determining what is best to buy to achieve the best quality product.

selection of wool tops from our

overseas

E-TEC Nonchlorinated AntiShrink Wool Tops being manufactured at BWHK plant

Jens Behrmann, Director at BWHK

For more information about the products and services offered

by Bremer Wollhandelskontor GmbH please email: info@ brewoko.de

GERMANY

Stucken Melchers

dominates speciality fibre supply Not many wool companies can claim to have been in business since 1863 and still be trading today. But Stucken GmbH & Co. KG based in Bremen Germany is one such company. Its subsidiary company Stucken Melchers GmbH & Co. KG combines the experience and expertise of its two shareholders – C. Melchers GmbH & Co. KG and Stucken, both of whom remain businesses of their founding families. In 1997 these companies joined forces to create Stucken Melchers. Today it is one of Europe’s leading textile and natural fibre merchants. This year Stucken celebrates 150 years of successful trading. (see separate article page 12).

T

he company is well known as a supplier of silk, cashmere, camel, rabbit hair, angora, mohair, and other speciality fibres. It is Oekotex-100 certified for mulberry silk, tussah silk, camel wool, yak wool, and cashmere tops. ‘Our customers

range from spinners, weavers and manufactures of apparel and home textiles. We keep extensive stocks in Bremen and selectively at our warehouses around Europe’, says Klaus Gravert managing director.

Stucken Melchers sees its role as a

Klaus Gravert with a variety of products including silk, camel hair and scoured wool

source of supply and distribution of high quality raw materials as well as offering an all-encompassing service

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 117

GERMANY

have a highly qualified team in place that is able to draw on many years of experience in their respective fields’.

The sales team includes Ralph Behnke who services customers in Western Europe and Tobias Beck who assists Frank Meyer with sales to Italy and Eastern Europe.

Frank Meyer (left) and Ralph Behnke with silk tops.

which is an essential aspect of a modern fibre trading company today.

customer contacts us in the morning

‘Our extensive stock ensures that we can supply our customers quickly. We have a warehouse in Biella, Italy as well as several other storage facilities throughout Europe. So, if a local

We also offer generous payment terms

we can deliver that same afternoon. to our customers’, says the other managing director Frank Meyer who leads the company sales team from its head office in Bremen. ‘Above all we

The company’s strength is its ability to source the right fibre for specific use.

Recently the company has seen an increased from customers purchasing wool as well as speciality fibres. ‘Our customers have been asking us to supply them with wool, so we have been doing more and more of this’, says Mr Meyer. ‘We supply European wools from all over Eastern and Western Europe, particularly German wools as well as South African carbonised wool and wool tops, and scoured wool tops from Australia’.

To obtain more information about the products available from Stucken Melchers Frank Meyer can be contacted at meyer@stuckmel.de

Offering the best German wool Although not so well known to some wool processors around the world Germany has been producing excellent coarser wool types 35 - 36 microns and also finer German merino wool of 28 - 30 microns. This is due to consistently improving wool farming practices and its North Sea climate.

‘German wool has been very consistent in recent years, particularly regarding characteristics, low VM, length and colour. It is an excellent choice for scourers and spinners who predominantly buy European wools’, says John Semmelhaak, Manager at Friedrich Sturm, in Hamburg Germany.

John Semmelhaak 118 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

Friedrich Sturm collects wools from Schleswig-Holstein in Germany’s West, Centre and Eastern regions. SchleswigHolstein is a particularly famous wool

growing region in Germany just outside Hamburg.

In the past year more collection of merino wool in the east and south east of the country has been added and operations have expanded. A second larger collection centre in the area, with the same full selecting and baling infrastructure will be established and running in the last quarter of 2013.

In recent years this company has become one of Germany’s largest

GERMANY

and most efficient collectors and exporters of wool and animal by-products. Wool is collected almost exclusively from farmers and shearers.

There is no mixing or blending with other wools of other origins. This specification assurance gives Friedrich Sturm a competitive advantage over other exporters.

‘Today, when a customer opens a container he wants to be reassured that what is inside is exactly what he ordered. All our wools are tested, offering clients the highest level of security regarding the product and its consistency. Every lot is sorted to client specification and it is tested by Wool Testing Authority Europe. We have an excellent knowledge in German wools and source the right wool for the right use for our customers’, says Mr Semmelhaak.

The company’s sorting process has added to its ability to streamline the process for greater speed and efficiency. It operates a 6m long, 1.5m wide moving conveyor belt. The wool is emptied onto the moving belt where it is examined for foreign objects such as manure, straw, vegetable matter and other fibres. After sorting, the wool continues along the conveyor belt until it drops into the bale

compressor where it is pressed and packed in approx. 400 kg bales. Friedrich Sturm has been developing its operation into a European hub where other wool producers from other European countries can go to link the sale of their wool to customers around the world. ‘We work closely with other European wool producers and in addition

to our German wool we can also offer wool from other European countries to wool buyers around the world’.

For more information about Friedrich Sturm please contact John Semmelhaak at sturm@fsturm.com or jrs@frsturm.com www.frsturm.com

Wool Specification List TYPE

MICRON

W.YIELD %

AVG. LENGTH

Eider

34 / 36 my

65-70

8 - 12 cm

Merino I

28 / 30 my

58/ 62

5 - 9 cm

Merino II

30 / 32 my

58 / 63

5 - 9 cm

Geest

35 / 37 my

58/60

8 - 12 cm

Schwarzkopf

30 / 32 my

58/64

7 - 9 cm

Brown

34 / 36 my

58/62

8 - 9 cm

Schnucken

38 / 42 my

55/65

8 - 15 cm

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 119

WOOL LOGISTICS

100% Secure Wool Logistics from KES DISTRI

More than 150 wool companies from all around the world use the services of KES DISTRI for their storage and delivery requirements.

of the client and will not be delivered and released to the purchaser until all contractual obligations are satisfied.

We work very closely with our customers at all stages of the process. And as the wool is not delivered to the buyer until we have clear instruction from the owner the system is safe and straightforward’.

KES DISTRI website is user friendly and clients can track their wool lots as they make their way from port of origin to destination. The system is secure and transparent.

‘Our experienced team can take control of all your logistical needs, avoiding long delays and additional costs for storage at customs depots and other fees.

Red Sun China sales director Mr Shao Wei Yang (right) and Mr Nick Chen (middle) assistant to the managing directors at Red Sun with Harry Starkus during a recent visit to KES DISTRI offices and warehouse in Bremen.

T

his German logistics company transports wool and all textile fibres by truck throughout Eastern and Western Europe. ‘We offer prompt deliver in quantities both large and small, from one bale to 60 and more. We have trucks leaving our depots every day for all European destinations’ says Harry Starkus, Managing Director at KES DISTRI in Bremen Germany.

both large and small orders with

‘Our services include in house customs clearance and delivery payment insurance. We provide a service that is stress free for our customers’. KES DISTRI delivers

Mr Starkus. ‘We can make this

trucks leaving every day for multiple destinations in Eastern and Western Europe.

For 40 years KES DISTRI has specialised in the transportation of wool and natural fibres. It operates a large transport fleet, modern trans-shipment facility and warehouse, and a reliable, individual customer service.

‘Your wool is safe with us’, says guarantee because wool lots delivered to the KES DISTRI warehouse

from

the

client

remain under the ownership

120 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

KES DISTRI works with exporters of greasy wool, as well as importers of tops and yarn, and traders and wool merchants from South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, China and South America and many other countries within Eastern and Western Europe.

‘When an exporter entrusts us with their wool we manage sea transportation, customs clearance, delivery to our warehouse, secure storage, wool testing by an accredited wool testing house, and delivery of the wool lot to its final destination’, says Mr Starkus.

KES DISTRI is accredited with all IWTO testing houses and can perform core tests at its warehouse facility.

Testing certificates are delivered directly to nominated parties. KES DISTRI is also GOTS certified for storage and processing of organic products. As well as safe secure transportation services KES DISTRI is thus able to provide sellers of wool tops and yarn

WOOL LOGISTICS

storage facility, as well as on the spot selling to customers and make future sales for companies looking for smaller quantity and immediate quick delivery all over Europe in small or big quantities. This allows importers to use our storage facility as a retail floor, where they can view their available products via our website and make sales for bigger or smaller lots as required. Of course, the owner can track these sales via our secure website as well’.

The owner from greasy wool to yarn can also see what is in stock and available for sale at the KES DISTRI warehouse by viewing the website at www.kes-bremen.de Orders can be made online.

Bremen is the best port of call for importing fibre into Europe according to Thomas Fuhrmann Director at KES DISTRI. ‘The laws for importing greasy fibre in to Europe are very complicated due to stringent health regulations and KES DISTRI can assist in clearing cargo as soon as it arrives in to Bremen. It is much easier to import wool in to Europe via Bremen. Customs here are used to wool being imported and with our assistance all custom and duty tax is made easy, as we do it every day’.

This is in contrast to the situation where wool is imported into such other European countries as Italy.

European import and customs regulations regarding the import of raw fibre are complicated, vary from country to country and changes all the time. ‘As a logistics company we have a team dedicated to staying up to date regarding these regulations. In the long run it is cheaper and less problematic to import wool via Bremen than any other port in Europe’, says Mr Fuhrmann.

Thomas Fuhrmann using KES DISTRI website - exporters can track their wool from port of origin to destination Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 121

RUSSIA

Increased interest in Russian wool 30 years ago Russia was the world’s largest export market for wool, importing and processing over 160 million kilograms to clothe the military and communist party. However, with Russia now a free-market economy the focus is on high-quality apparel. It has become a member state of the International Wool Trade Organisation.

W

e have a population of over 140 million people, we have economic growth, and we need to manufacture warm clothing’, says Mr Sergey Puzanov Director of Slavyane Wool Company.

‘We are also looking beyond other traditional consuming markets such as the US and Europe and already have a presence in China and India’.

The wool production sector in Russian today consists of individual farmers running 300 – 1000 sheep, or farming conglomerate / units with 25,000 – 30,000 sheep. In 1998 there were 12.6 million sheep in Russia, by 2010 there were 20 million. Today only 60% of Russian sheep are merino breeds and as in most other countries dual purpose sheep is a tendency for farmers. The best sheep in Russia are grown in the Stavropol Region.

‘More and more companies in Europe are appreciating our Russian wool’, says Mr Puzanov. ‘More Russian wool is being purchased by European, Indian and Chinese wool buyers. Some parts

of Russia produce excellent quality merino. It is competitively priced and is tested by international testing houses such as SGS’.

Slavyane Wool Company is the biggest exporter of Russian wool and purchases up to 2,000 tons of greasy wool and up to 300 tons of feather and down material annually. Slavyane Wool Company supplies merino wool, semi-fine wool, semi coarse wool, wool tow, wool clip (hide-shorn), and scoured wool. The company recently expanded its product list and now offers wool top through its offices in Mumbai, Biella and Beijing.

‘With the wool processing industry under pressure from higher wool prices and a lack of demand, accessing and using an alternative wool supply has become more important’, says Mr Puzanov. ‘Our customers appreciate our reliable service and the quality of wool and wool top that we supply’.

‘We have many wool processing customers that are now quite familiar with Russian merino wool’, says Mr Puzanov who lives and works in Beijing. ‘Our offices in Italy and India can facilitate quick and easy communication.

We have been supplying wool processors in Europe, India and other countries around the world with Russian wool for many years and we are very familiar with their requirements’.

Slavyane Wool Company operates a number of strategically located wool

122 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

Sergey Puzanov

collection points in Stavropol to which wool is delivered direct from farms and sorted by experienced staff.

Particular attention is paid to sorting wool, based on client requirement, and the employment of the best packing materials.

‘The people that work for us are industry professionals who have been involved in wool for the greater part of their working lives. Because of this we are able to guarantee quality and answer customer demand quickly and professionally. We source the right wool for each client’s particular purpose and this has always been the focus of our business.’

WoolSlav also works closely with partner companies in New Zealand and Australia and can supply wool companies with wool of most origins.

The company also has direct links with an expanding Russian textile industry and can easily facilitate introductions of foreign companies that are interested in joint ventures in Russia.

‘Our competitive prices and our good understanding of the Russian market make us an ideal business partner for companies interested in buying wool of all origins, and for companies that are interested in expanding into Russia’, concludes Mr Puzanov.

Sergey Puzanov can be contacted at woolslav@mail.ru or you can contact Inna Varivonchik at our Biella office tel: +39 328 4486166 E-mail: innava@bk.ru skype: innavarivonchik

TURKEY

Consistency of quality & supply to European manufacturers

Akel Tekstil has been supplying scoured wool to Italian and Belgium manufacturers for many years. ‘We supply manufacturers of top, bedding covers and mattresses, as well as fake fur products, and fabric, carpet and rugs manufacturers’, says Baris Gelenbe shareholder and director at AKEL TEKSTIL.

Baris Gelenbe with scoured wool at Akel Tekstil plant

‘Turkey is close enough that we can quickly travel to clients to see first-hand what machinery is being used and what product is being manufactured, to clearly determine the best scoured wool for each individual client and each individual order’.

‘We offer a consistent quality to our customers in Europe’, says Baris Gelenbe shareholder and director at AKEL TEKSTIL. ‘And we are able to deliver the quality required by our long-standing customers’.

‘We are the only Turkish company to supply 20.2 micron 124 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

scoured wool, approved by an accredited wool testing house report. We produce high quality scoured wool and compete in both quality and price with the best processors around the world’, says Chairman Omer Ozden.

visits

Akel’s scouring plant in Usak is being kept busy with a steady flow of Turkish and Romanian wool as well as a variety of European wool and wools from Australia, New Zealand and Britain. The wool is sorted and processed on commission, as well as for the company’s own use.

with customers both big and

Akel supplies these wools to processors, some of which are used for blending to reduce cost. ‘We have the knowledge and expertise to advise our customers on the best wools for their particular manufacturing needs’, says Mr Gelenbe who

customers

to

see

the

machinery they are using and the products they are making to better advise them as to the best type of wools to give them the best result.

‘We are happy to send small shipments if needed and work small. The wool we deliver is always as per sample and we stand by the veracity of our wool’.

Large

warehousing

facilities

are complemented by a new scouring line to keep up with demand. The company has a scouring capacity of 25 metric tons per day. The scouring line now has 8, 2 metre wide pools and dust machines. The result is a better quality output. AKEL has the capacity to supply 2000MT scoured wool & 5000MT greasy wool per annum.

TURKEY

Turkish wool exporter focuses on Europe Pozitif Wool specialises in exporting Turkish and Romanian wool around the world. Founded in 2009 by Erdogan Akavci it operates from a 40,000 sq m facility in Uşak Turkey and runs two scouring lines.

T

‘One of the main advantages we have is our sister company, SC Tolga srl based in Romania. Because of this partnership we are able to source larger

he company supplies Turkish & Romanian wool in greasy and scoured form. ‘We offer Romanian wool from 24 - 38 microns of various lengths and tannery wool from 21 - 36 microns from origins such as Australia, UK, African, and Turkey’, says Mr Akavci, Chairman of Pozitif Wool

quantities of Romanian wool.’

‘We have a scouring capacity of 50 metric tons per day and export to many markets in Easter and Western Europa as well as to Central Asia’, says Mr Erdogan. ‘One line is for finer wool

makers who use our wool types for

Pozitif Wool has continues to expand its product range and values product quality and customer service. It is environmentally

conscious

endeavours to employ good business practice in all areas of its operation.

‘We are well known to European top Mr Erdogan Akavci, Chairman of Pozitif Wool

their

products,

including

blended

types. We offer consistency of supply and we stand by the quality of our

coarser wool (30 – 40 micron)’.

wool’, concludes Mr Akavci.

Y SCOU AS

H&

W

RK

OO

TU

L

D RE

GR E

(22 – 30 micron) and one scour for

IS

126 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

and

R O M A NIA

N

TURKEY

Mafilo looking after its customers in good times and in bad

For more than 10 years this Turkish company, based in Istanbul, has been an agent representing major suppliers and producers of wool and top from around the world. Mafilo offers New Zealand scoured wool, Australian carbonised wool, as well as tops from Uruguay. It also sells silk, cashmere and angora – mostly to Turkish companies but also acting as an agent for companies in Europe and South America.

‘We pride ourselves on transparency and accuracy with all our clients. We work directly with wool exporters and top manufacturers so that our customers know the origin of the wool we supply to them each and every time. We are able to provide our clients with information about the best prices and the best qualities of wool from any country,’ says Mert Atakoglu of Mafilo Tekstil.

Mafilo

has

established

a

strong

presence in the international arena and can supply major clients with all types of wool and speciality fibres for worsted weaving yarn, flat knitting yarn, fancy yarn, hand knitting yarn, open end/ring and semi-worsted and woolen carpet yarns.

Mafilo offers an on time delivery service, looking after its clients when prices are up and when prices are

down. ‘We offer good representation in Turkey to all our clients’ says Mr Atakoglu. ‘Our clients know whose wool they are getting and we include as clients such companies as Segard Masurel and Tops Fray Marcos and Engraw in Uruguay. It is a great advantage to our clients that they are not in the dark regarding where their wool is coming from. They will always get exactly what they ordered’.

‘Turkish spinning mills are encouraged to contact us at Mafilo’, says Mr Atakoglu. ‘We offer a prompt reliable service and because we are local, speed and communication are of course a big boost to quick effective business transactions’.

Mert Atakoglu is a third generation family member to be involved in the textile business. Decades of experience in the wool and textile industry, together with a location positioned

Mert Atakoglu of Mafilo Tekstil in his office in Istanbul with Uruguayan wool tops, Argentinean wool, New Zealand scoured wool, and silk

on the doorstep of Europe, and a well serviced port facility are all advantages when dealing with Mafilo for quick deliveries all over the world.

‘In the past Australia was known as the main wool supplying country’, he says. ‘We specifically established Mafilo Tekstil to provide a competitive alternative that includes wools from a variety of origins such as Uruguay, Argentina, South Africa, New Zealand, as well as from Australia. We provide a reliable service, fast delivery, and competitive prices’.

As well as importing wool and other speciality fibers into Turkey Mafilo Tekstil also exports local and imported wools to markets beyond Europe, including China, India and Iran.

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 127

SPAIN

Lanas Cuesta - expanding supply of Spanish wool position to take advantage of this increase in overseas demand for textile and apparel. This Spanish company has been selling clean Spanish wool for over 75 years.

Lanas Cuesta exports wool top, scoured wool, noils and greasy wool to Europe, Africa, Asia and America. Company directors are Juan Antonio Cuesta and Pablo Cuesta. Both are well known to the European wool trade and have some 30 years of experience in trading and processing European wools.

Pablo Cuesta and Juan Antonio Cuesta ‘2008 to 2012 dealt a heavy blow to the Spanish textile and apparel sector, where sales have dipped some 21%. However, some Spanish companies with brands such Mango, with an

128 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

international presence, have found a lifeline in the emerging markets of Asia and the Middle East, as well as Russia, where their exports and sales are increasing.

Lanas Cuesta has been in a

Lanas Cuesta works with all kinds of wools, principally Spanish wool from 22 microns up to 37microns, although it does specialize in Spanish merino wool from 22.5 to 23.5 microns

SPAIN

with a length of between 56 to 60 mm. Lanas Cuesta exports wool that is 100% pure wool and can also supply French and Portuguese wool if required.

‘Our

wool

and

wooltop

is

cheaper than Australian or South American wools. Though the characteristics of our Spanish merino wool are different, our prices are lower and we are able to effectively mix our wools with wools of other origins, or to meet client requirement’.

Administration

and

documentation

requirements

in relation to shipping and transportation established,

are

well

enabling

speedy

handling and movement.

The company sources wool direct from farmers and farm co-operatives, predominantly from the south of Spain. It has strategically located warehouses throughout Spain with experienced and dedicated staff who undertake the classification of the wool.

‘We also buy wool at auction and source wool from other wool merchants when specific wool types are required by our clients’.

‘We can provide the facility for wool washing or we can work with other commission combers to make use of their processing facilities. We comb our wools in different combing plants in Spain, Portugal and

Italy, always ensuring that client specifications are followed’, says Mr Cuesta.

‘We have long standing arrangements with many clients and agents around the world.

We always ensure that our clients are satisfied with our standard of quality and with price competitiveness’.

‘We welcome enquiries from wool buyers that are interested in tapping into our experience in the wool trade’, says Pablo Cuesta, joint director.

For more information about the products and services offered by Lanas Cuesta please contact Pablo Cuesta at lanascuesta@lanascuesta.com

Australian Wool Packs: The next generation

F

ollowing nearly two years of extensive trials the AWEX (Australian Wool Exchange) Board has approved changes to the Australian Wool Pack Standard. The changes to the standard will improve road transport compliance with road regulations; a key objective of this review.

‘Complying with road regulations is a matter of safety, a priority of the wool industry and in the interests of all’, says Mark Grave, AWEX CEO. ‘Whilst over length bales appears to be a relatively simple matter to resolve, we were conscious that the solution needed to be pragmatic and recognise the investment woolgrowers have in infrastructure and minimise ant implications for the cost of wool logistics through the pipeline’.

The Road Rules state that a legal load is one that does not exceed 2.5 metres in

width. The main cause of over-width loads of wool on trucks is when wool bales that are 1.25 m are placed endto-end on a truck, therefore exceeding the 2.5m maximum.

The key changes to the wool pack standard are the introduction of a four-seamed base and a bale fastening guide (BFG) on each flap. ‘The four seamed base will provide greater structure to the wool bale, a square base and reduce the ‘bulge’. The BFG will provide wool pressers with a mark to pull the bale fastener too when closing a bale. This is a best practice mark’, says Mr Grave.

AWEX trialled 1,800 wool packs on properties throughout NSW and Victoria to ensure that all factors were considered including environment, sheep breed and wool press type.

‘The trial was extensive and we are grateful for the support and

cooperation which we received from government and its agencies, as well as AWEX members, wool growers and stakeholders. The participation of the many wool growers, wool brokers and private treaty merchants in the trials has been essential to successfully completing the review’.

‘Extensive trials take time and diligence to complete and we believe that the recommendations approved by the AWEX Board will vastly improve the performance of wool bales. The issue of over-width loads of wool bales is not new to the industry, having been raised as a problem in 1995 when wool packs were made of HDPE or jute’, says Mr Grave. Wool growers will see the new designed wool packs by the end of 2013. A copy of the published trial paper and analysis is available on the AWEX website.

Source: AWEX Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 129

ITALY

Pantex offers a wide range of products & fast delivery ‘We are well known as a one-stop-shop for European wool and top buyers.Last year we celebrated 40 years of successful trading’, says Piercarlo Zedda Joint Managing Director of Pantex in Italy. Pantex is run jointly by Piercarlo and his brother Giovanni Zedda. wools blend, and carbonized noils.

Wool waste sales are also a commodity well established by this company and include combing wool-wastes, spinning wool-wastes and weaving wool wastes.

Giovanni (left) and Piercarlo Zedda

P

antex continues to expand and add new lines to its already extensive list of products. Its excellent network of suppliers around the world enable it to supply its extensive worldwide customer base.

Standard types offered by Pantex include tops, open tops, re-combed tops, scoured wool from Australia, New Zealand, South America, South Africa, and Europe. The company versatility and diversity enables it to offer wool blends, carbonized wools, carbonized

Pantex operate centralised sorting, cleaning, blending and opening of fibres. ‘All wool brought to our plant is tested and classified. Even if the wool is unclassified it is still tested to ensure that the client will get the quality ordered’, says Piercarlo Zedda who is also immediate Past President of the Italian Wool Trade Association and current Vice President of IWTO. The company offers long term contracts as well as one off buying from warehouses with stock at hand opportunities. ‘We are known for our fast delivery, wide range of products and competitive prices. Our clients know that we can be flexible and versatile, and our experience in selecting the right wool is the reason why they come back to us for orders time and time again’, says Giovanni

Pantex warehouse facilities 130 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

Zedda. ‘Many of our clients have been coming to us for 30 years. In fact most of our customers don’t even ask for a sample - delivery goes straight through because the quality of our wool products are so consistent’.

Pantex warehouse facilities are based in the heart of Biella, Italyand the company is represented throughout Europe.

‘New wool types have created an increase in business for us. Our business is growing and we are offering a more diverse range of products to reflect the needs of our customers. We are diversifying and changing in line with the industry and this is our strength’, says Mr Zedda.

Pantex continues to offer the most standard types in stock but if customers want something different, it can be sourced quickly. Mr Zedda comments that more and more customers are approaching them for individual types of wool and tops for specific needs, and he remarks that the company can source and deliver to these needs because of it extensive world contact.

Piercarlo Zedda can be contacted by email at pantex@pantex-spa.it or www.pantex-spa.it

SETTING THE

STANDARD IN QUALITY

T o p s Open Tops

Scoured & Carbonised Wool

Raw & Carbonised WOOL N O I L S A N D W astes

PANTEX S.p.A.

PANTEX

Via Monte Grappa 11, 13888 Mongrando, Biella, Italy Tel: +39 015 666160 • Fax: +39 015 667272 • Email: pantex@pantex-spa.it www.pantex-spa.it

ITALY

Associazione Nazionale Del Commercio Laniero launches book book describes more than 250 breeds of sheep and includes 153 photographs.

But in addition to the various breeds of sheep producing different types of wool, a third of the book is dedicated to animals that produce special or rare and precious fibers, valued by the taste and creativity of our textile industry.

T

he Associazione founded in 1910 has been operating for over 90 years and its numbers have swelled to almost 40. It brings together the suppliers of more than 90% of all raw animal material used in the Italian wool and textile industry.

‘We are celebrating this important anniversary with the publication of a bilingual book (English and Italian). “The world of animal fibres” (published by Botalla) is a journey around the world (Great Britain, Australia, New Zealand, Latin America and other places too) that lead the reader through the various breeds of sheep and goats, including llamas, angora rabbits and silkworms. The

“When, three years ago, the Associazione proposed we produce a book that would raise awareness about the many animal fibers in the world, we did not think it would take well over our ninetieth anniversary to be published’, said Associazione President Mario Ferrarone.

‘The project was conceived from a desire to forestall the loss of this cultural background in our world.

Having, among our associates, Mario Fila Robattino, a recognized expert of fibres, supported by a keen working group and spurred on by our president Piercarlo Zedda we have achieved our aim. The book has been entirely selffinanced, no sponsorship has been needed‘.

For can

those interested, the be purchased directly

book from

the Associazione Nazionale Commercio Laniero.

Del

Biella hosts 2013 the IWTO Congress It has also been a busy year for the Associazione Nazionale Del Commercio Laniero as Biella hosted the 2013 IWTO Congress. The congress theme was “Excellence in manufacturing - Heritage for the future”. The focus was on key industry strategies such as wool’s sustainability credentials and new applications for wool in the area of human health and wellness. Speakers from around the world offered insight into the current issues of the industry, future consumer markets as well as new market opportunities. As always, the IWTO Congress offered plenty of networking and business opportunities for major players in the wool industry.

Office bearers at the Associazione are President Mario Ferrerati Ferrarone, Vice President Micaela Fiorina and an executive committee that includes Truscelli Francesco, Nigel Thompson, Claudio Lacchio, Pierluigi Mazzia, Mauro De Lorenzi and Luciano Gandini. Guido De Luca is the financial controller and Wilma Rosso is secretary and administrative officer.

Italian agent linking buyers and sellers in Europe De Luca Lane has been connecting buyers and sellers of wool for 45 years.

The company, established by Carmine De Luca, is now run by sons Guido and Matteo. Both have practical experience gained from working with wool and wool top exporters in Bradford, Australia and New Zealand.

W

e welcome contact with companies that are looking for the services of an experienced agent in Europe’, says Guido De Luca Director at De Luca Lane in Biella, Italy. ‘We know the

132 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

European market, and particularly the Italian market and work closely with major suppliers of wool and woollen products from all major wool producing countries’.

The European market consists of many thousands of small

textile companies and De Luca Lane has established relationships with a number of these companies, supplying them with wool, wooltop and other textile products. ‘For our customers in Italy we offer quick delivery and a very personal service. We are a well known supplier of greasy, scoured and carbonised wools of all origins, as well as wool tops of all ranges’, says Matteo De Luca. ‘We are trusted to provide the

ITALY

Carmine De Luca (centre) with sons Matteo (left) and Guido (right)

best wool for their particular needs.

Most companies have unique interests, but perhaps not the knowledge and connections. This is why using us to help facilitate communication and to sell your products is beneficial.

Going direct to companies does not always work well’, says Guido De Luca. ‘Australian and New Zealand wool exporters have been using our services to sell their wool in Europe because they understand that we are an effective link to Europe. Our strength is our firsthand knowledge

of the European and particularly the North Italian textile markets’.

De Luca Lane will supply ‘out of range’ wool types for particular end use and can hold this stock for its clients. ‘As agents we are always looking for new

contacts, so if you are interested in being represented in Italy you should talk to us’, concluded Mr De Luca.

For more information about De Luca Lane and its products contact cdlwools@tin.it Tel. + 39 015 29039

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 133

ITALY

Specialist agent provides opportunity to European buyers says Mauro Trapella Director at Laniera Italiana. Any wool export company from outside Europe that wishes to export its products to the European continent needs an agent or representative who can offer a knowledge of the European market, experience with a variety of fibre, including wool and speciality fibre., says Mauro Trapella Director at Laniera Italiana.

This has never been as important as it is now, when general consumption in European countries is falling. Such an agent should also have a proven record, as we do’, says Pierluigi Mazzia. The company is managed jointly by Mr Trapella and Pierluigi Mazzia who has been working in the European wool industry for over 30 years.

Pierluigi Mazzia and Mauro Trapella Directors at Laniera Italiana.

W

orking with an agent, who is on the ground, speaks the local language and is familiar with and experienced in local laws and regulation is an asset to any business’,

Laniera Italiana represents wool and wool top exporters and processor from all major wool producing countries.

The company, based in Biella Italy, has been successfully representing exporters of wool and speciality fibre for over 22 years. The company focuses on supplying wool tops, scoured and greasy from Australia, New Zealand, South America, and main European countries such as Spain, Portugal, Hungary, Germany, Holland and France. The company also offers traditional speciality fibres such as mohair, cashmere, angora, alpaca, llama, silk and camel to customers in Europe.

‘In the last 5 years the trading conditions in Europe have changed quite dramatically’, says Mr Mazzia who is also a past treasurer of the Italian Wool Trade Association.

‘There was substantial stock of scoured wool and wool tops available in Europe, but in the last 5 years there has been virtually no stock available. We are now more and more involved with our clients in working on plans to import sufficient quantities for their use at the right time and at the right price’.

Today Laniera Italiana has expanded its activities and now has a representative office in Istanbul Turkey and in Shanghai China. These offices are fundamental to our dayto-day business activities’, says Mr Trapella. ‘They support our ability to quickly assess wool market situations on the ground, including stock availability, customer need and current prices and opportunities and we can access a wide variety of products. This is the key to our success to date’.

Companies interested in contacting Laniera Italiana should contact Pierluigi Mazzia or Mauro Trapella at wool@ lanieraitaliana.it

134 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

ITALY

Greystone Wools as busy as ever reliable and quick when supplying tops, open tops, scoured

and

carbonised

wools from all origins as well as noble fibers such as dehaired cashmere and dehaired cashmere tops and angora’.

In most instances Greystone Wools can deliver within days if prompt delivery is required.

Mauro Delorenzi

‘We to

are

always

establish

looking contact

with exporters of wool and speciality fibre and manufacturers of tops and noils around the world and I would be very happy to speak with new customers about their wool needs and to help them determine the most suitable wool currently available’, concludes Mr Delorenzi.

Mauro Delorenzi can be contact in Biella Tel. 039 015 8497172 E. mauro@gw-srl.it

Biella, in Northern Italy, is traditionally known as a hub for companies involved in European wool and textile production and Greystone Wools has its office in the heart of this picturesque but always busy town.

W

e supply scoured wools from New Zealand, scoured and carbonised wools from Australia and customers can contact us for their particular requirement types’, says Mauro Delorenzi, who has been with Greystone Wools since 2006 and has 25 years experience working in the wool industry.

The company supplies its customers with wool direct from origin on a fleece basis and has well established links to suppliers in New Zealand, Australia and in Europe.

‘We offer a service that is Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 135

INDIA

Jaya Shree wool tops used by noted brands beyond its shores The woollen sector of the Indian textile industry

processed to provide wool tops as well

caters to a majority of big brands around the world.

as worsted spun yarn of world-class

Jaya Shree Textiles (the textile manufacturing arm of Aditya Birla Nuvo Ltd) is a leader in this with a sound understanding of brand marketing and consumer trends. In India Jaya Shree is the biggest importer of Australian Merino wool and India is the second largest raw wool importer from Australia after China.

J

aya Shree is taking a leading role in India’s wool export industry. Its raw wool is sourced from the finest

quality Merino wool from Australia, New Zealand & South Africa and is

136 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

quality. Safe working condition and a focus on environmental sustainability for generations to come are the team philosophy.

The company has been operating for more than 18 years and sells its products in over 50 countries. ‘We are proud to be associated with processing renewable natural fibres such as wool and linen. Apart from linen yarn and fabric we offer a wide basket of wool products, starting from WOOL TOPS in the micron range of 14.5 to 24.0 to worsted spun wool and wool-blend yarns in a count range 16 to 120

INDIA

NM for weaving & knitting. Our recent addition of CASHMERE TOPS has further enriched our product basket’, says Mr. Santosh Patodia, Joint President (Wool).

‘Our initiatives in manufacturing excellence, concern for the environment, health, safety and contributions to society are recognized by the accreditation of ISO 9001:2000, ISO 14001:2004, OHSAS 18001:2007 & SA 8000:2001 as well as Oekotex, class 1’.

‘The quality of our wool tops and service are highly appreciated by our global customers and we are a preferred choice to top grade global spinners’, says Mr. Manoj Marda, Assistant Vice President (Wool Combing). ‘This quality, competitiveness and the service to customers has given us an edge at Jaya Shree over competitors which has worked as an impetus for us to grow to an annual capacity of 10 mkg wool tops and 3 mkg scoured wool today.’

Wool tops is delivered in 10 kg bump form in compressed sea-worthy bale packing of about 320 kg.

For more information on Wool tops, please contact Mr. Manoj Marda at manoj.marda@adityabirla.com.

Jaya Shree offers custom-made worsted spun ecru & dyed yarn for application in apparel (suiting), knitwear, accessories (shawl, stole, etc.) and furnishing with an annual capacity of 4 mkg. ‘We have weaving yarn customers spread over all the 5 continents. Europe is the major suiting yarn market and our yarn is regarded there at par with top grade suppliers’, says Mr. Naveen Chandra, Assistant Vice President (Worsted).

‘Our product basket includes pure wool, wool/polyester, wool/nylon yarn, siro-spun, siro-lycra, compact-spun & crepe yarns.’ For more information on weaving yarn please contact naveen.chandra@adityabirla.com.

‘We have a variety of knitting yarns for flat-bed (sweater), circular (jersey) and socks in wool (normal or machine wash, total-easy-care) as well as wool blends with polyamide (nylon 66), acrylic, silk, bamboo, cashmere, mohair, etc.’, says Mr. Aloke Roy, General Manager (Worsted).

‘Nuvolana, our brand name for sweater knitting yarn, has won many nominations from international brands and nation-wide, is the most preferred yarn to match Italian quality’. For more information on knitting yarn, you may contact aloke.roy@adityabirla.com.

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 137

CANADA

Wool buyers choose Canadian Wool Canadian Co-operative Wool Growers (CCWG) is a national cooperative that has been serving the Canadian wool industry since 1918. It collects, grades, measures and markets the wool on behalf of farmers. It grades and markets close to 3 million pounds of raw wool each year, in each of the three main classes of fine, medium and coarse. Canadian wool ranges from 22 – 35 microns with the bulk of production being between 29 -31 microns.

Eric Bjergso, General Manager at Canadian Co-operative Wool Growers Ltd (CCWG)

Canadian whiteface sheep

C

anada is well adapted to sheep and wool production. Wool has played an important role in clothing both civilian and military populations, contributing not only to home industries but also to a substantial commercial textile industry.

‘Wool buyers around the world are now considering Canadian as an additional source of quality wool’, says Mr Bjergso, General Manager at CCWG. ‘Canadian wool lends itself to a wide range of applications that are suitable for a variety of products. We supply the right wool for the right use to top makers around the world’.

‘The main market for Canadian wool has been China, USA, India and Uruguay this year as well as a domestic market here in Canada. Canadian wool offers excellent choices to, for blending with other wools, or for use in its own right, for a wide range of products’, says Mr Bjergso.

CCWG grades and markets its wool

138 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

according to accepted international wool industry practices and standards.

All wool types are objectively measured after grading. ‘We believe that this gives us an essential edge. Accurate measuring for each wool lot offered for sale is appreciated by our customers.

They know they are receiving a well prepared and better quality graded wool that results in a higher market value for their product’.

CCWG has been busy visiting new and established customers from Uruguay to China. It has also made enhancements to its Wool Preparation Incentive Rebate (WPIR) program. ‘We have developed trusting relationships with long established customers in these markets for a wide range of graded Canadian wool types. The reputation of graded Canadian wool is very good because we have strived to make consistent quality deliveries on an ongoing basis’.

For more information contact Mr Eric Bjergso Email: ericb@wool.ca

WOOL IN BEDDING

Innovation in bedding wool comes to Michell Suzhou, China

Michell produce the unique Mycraloft bedding wool which is the leading bedding wool product in the market, renown for its superior loft and resistance to felting.

T

he continued innovation at the Michell Australia and China plants is set to continue for years to come as they continue to invest in new processes and techniques.

The last 5 years has seen a reinvention and innovation process that has seen Michell fifth generation owners David and Peter Michell invest heavily in new processes and techniques.

“The process of reinventing ourselves has seen us halve our water and energy use on the scouring and carbonising lines. By going through this rethinking process we had to think outside the square and draw on knowledge from previous generations. This reengineering process has had added benefits in the production of Mycraloft.

Feedback from customers is that the product is now even better than before and has allowed them to produce the highest quality doonas and quilts,” said Peter Michell.

These production improvements and their confidence in the growing Chinese domestic bedding market has seen invest further in their Suzhou, China plant. Mycraloft machinery has been installed in Suzhou and is under going final testing. Mycraloft was originally pioneered in Australia after exhaustive R&D and has shown to be a superior product in the bedding market.

The development was done in consultation with a leading bedding manufacturer in Australia and the

unique to Michell product now leads the Australian market. The wool is perfectly treated ensuring high loft and protection against felting. The product passes TM31 tests and is machine washable and tumble dryable. Mycraloft is APEO free and OekoTex Baby Class 1 certified.

When you add this to the already impressive list of products produced at the Michell Suzhou and Australian plants you can understand why Michell leads the market in the production of bedding grade wool. Commission Carbonising - Carbonised wool for the (Woollen, Felt, Bedding, Blanket markets).

minimal waste density fabric.

and

high

• Felt Wool - This product is cleanest wool available and great for high end felts with virtually no contaminents.

Michell sees a strong future for the Australian wool industry and throughout the many ups and downs in the sector Michell always actively advised customers on new techniques, often developed through Michell R&D.

Wool can be greasy picked and product picked.

- Loose Wool Super Wash for the (Bedding market) Adding to this the existing list of services such as: • Rectified Top - This top is perfect for sliverknitters, allowing them to make high quality products with

Quality is everything at Michell

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 139

WOOL IN BEDDING

Sleeping beauty

B

from New Zealand

edding manufacturers are increasingly using wool to meet environmental demands made by customers. Products made from wool are chemical free, non toxic and flame resistant. In addition, a research study by the Woolmark Company and the University of Sydney shows that wool bedding products breathe more naturally than synthetic counterparts, increases REM and ensures that the body gets to a comfortable sleeping temperature quicker and maintains it longer.

‘And this message is getting across to bedding manufacturers around the world’, says Peter Crone Managing Director of J. Marshall & Co. ‘To meet this customer expectation more quality bedding manufacturers are looking at using wool in a variety of bedding products. ‘ John Marshall & Co, one of the oldest wool export companies in New Zealand and Aotearoa Wools, a wool processing company, joined forces to process Joma® Wool. The process increases the wools bulk by between 40 - 50% and decreases felting migration

Peter Crone with Joma® Merino Pure. The smooth surface of the fabric blends in seamlessly, the texture is inviting and creates a natural environment for the body. It is knitted into a protex / cotton backing, and provides a critical performance enhancement for modern mattresses.

140 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

by 40%. ‘It is an ideal product for bedding manufacturers interested in tapping into this environmentally conscious, growing market’, says Peter Crone.

‘We have enhanced the natural resilience of the merino fibre by applying additional crimp. Each individual hair functions like a miniature spring, holding the body weight gently, while the spring ‘action’ actively circulates the air around the fiber. The vertical alignment of the fibers and the crimp create an active air cushion under the body. The gentle air circulation is fuelled by the slightest movement or change in temperatures. The air cushion allows the wool to work its magic effectively: higher wool and air volume enhance the benefits of temperature and water vapour diffusion, keeping the body within its natural comfort zone’.

‘Our other wool products for bedding are ‘hi bulk’ and ‘halo’, explains Peter Crone. ‘Hi Bulk cleansed wool is naturally high in bulk and ideal for bedding products.’ The wool is scoured, carded and then randomly opened. This process results in good inter-fibre cleaning and removal of contaminants.

The fibre is very even and greatly assists the running on predominantly synthetic fibre cards. Halo washable wool is also naturally high bulk wool and is chlorinated and Hercosett resin treated to give the wool fibre good anti-felting, shrink

resist properties. The sanitized wool can be given a greater ‘Halo’ of protection by applying Healthguard or Ultrafresh antimicrobials. This wool is used mainly in the production of high end duvets.

J. Marshall & Co works closely with bedding manufacturers in the US and North American markets and has partnered with such companies as Glenoit Fabrics (TT) Corp. in Tarboro, N.C. ‘Working together we have produced two sliver-knit fabrics with direct applications for bedding. Sliver is wool that has been carded, but not yet twisted into yarn. Sliver knits are double knits, in which the backing fabric is yarn and the face fabric is sliver.

In conjunction with Glenoit, J. Marshall & Co is also developing a four-way stretch, sliver-knit fabric that can be used on innerspring, specialty and hybrid mattresses. It is also working with a US foam supplier to produce a soft visco-elastic foam specifically designed to be used with wool. ‘We ensure that the physical benefits of our fibres are matched by its economic and technical performance.’

To meet the demand J. Marshall & Co has distribution centres in Charleston, S.C., and in Los Angeles. ‘These centres enable us to provide quick and easy delivery.’ ‘We are always looking for partnership opportunities around the world.

We are focused on long term working relationships to market and develop ever increasing advances in bedding products using wool’.

For more information please contact Peter Crone at peter@joma.co.nz

Stay one step ahead use Joma速 Wool

PATRON: HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES

WOOL IN BEDDING

Wool treatment for bedding child’s play for SPB Speciality Processors Bradford is a commission wool processor that specialises in processing loose wool and other animal fibres for manufacturers of bedding products. ‘As a commission processing company we do not process our own wool. Our clients are our priority’, says Albert Chippendale Director at Speciality Processors Bradford (SPB).

products that are of a high quality.

The company works to Woolmark specifications for washable wool.

‘Our plant meets all the most advanced treatment specifications and we operate to ISO 9001 quality standards. We are also registered with the Environmental Agency in the UK.

S

PB has been treating wool and wool tops for bedding manufacturers for some years.

‘We have a lot of experience using this treatment. Our company is 100% independent and we are not aligned to any other wool export company. As an independent processor, customers can send their wool to us for treatment, with confidence that it will be processed to their specification’.

‘We have a quick turnaround and customers usually receive their product back within days’.

Clients associate the name Speciality Processors Bradford with bedding

Treated wool - in big demand by the bedding industry

We offer natural products that are environmentally friendly, with OEKO TEX certification’, says Mr Chippendale.

OEKO TEX is an independent testing and certification system for textile products from all stages of production (fibres, yarns, fabrics, ready-to-use end products, including accessories) along the textile value chain and is particularly important for bedding manufacturers such as SPB that offer products for children’s bedding.

A

n increase in demand for eco friendly bedding products by consumers has fuelled this resurgence in production.

‘This demand from the consumer for such non toxic natural textile products has been a challenge to the wool processing industry’, says Mr Chippendale. However, SPB was one of the first companies in the UK to receive approval under stringent European legislation as an integrated pollution prevention and control plant.

‘Our main process for bedding utilises Kroy technology’, says Mr Chippendale.

‘This is a tried and tested method for providing machine washable wool which will last the useable lifetime of the product.

142 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

WOOL IN BEDDING

This system of chlorination control eliminates inconsistencies associated with earlier wool shrink proofing processes. The Kroy method of continuous wool top shrink proofing provides superior results with the additional advantages of improved colour and soft handle, better dyeing properties and reduced pilling’.

F

or the consumer who prefers a process which does not incorporate chlorine, SPB has developed its own process to render the wool machine washable without the use of chlorine. However as Mr Chippendale points out even chlorine treated wool from his plant contains less chlorine than drinking water!

‘We have been developing our own in-house technology that enables us to treat wool using a chlorine free ecofriendly process’, says Mr Chippendale. This has been successful and the company is now looking to the future to develop this process for wool tops as well.

‘We know European wools and we know how to get the best out of European wools’, says Mr Chippendale. Sending wool to Asia is not the most cost effective way to achieve the best result insists Mr Chippendale.

The company is located in Bradford UK and is central to Europe, always an advantage in respect to quick transportation and delivery.

For more information about SPB eco friendly bedding products please contact Albert Chippendale at speciality.processors@btopenworld.com

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 143

TEXTILE MACHINERY

What’s new in fibre processing technology?

NSC fibre to yarn has over 25,000 machines currently operating around the world. It designs and manufactures a wide range of machines for yarns of natural or synthetic fibres and promotes innovating and efficient production lines for long staple fibre process. It is a world leader in fibre textile machinery including such well known brands as Cognetex, Sant’ Andrea Novara, N. Schlumberger, and Seydel. It supplies most combing and recombing units operating in the world textile industry and has a market share of over 75%.

T

extile manufacturers around the world are being challenged to achieve more cost efficient production. Manufacturers are also under increasing pressure

from their customers to provide environmentally friendly certified products throughout the production pipeline. To achieve these goals manufacturers are installing new machinery that is more cost effective and environmentally friendly, as well as upgrading their existing machinery with innovate new parts.

In the last 18 months NSC fibre

to yarn has been busy supplying new equipment and upgrading existing machinery for a number of companies around the world.

‘Customers today appreciate that to stay competitive they need the latest textile machinery available.

The machinery that is user friendly, highly automated, saves money on energy and has low operational and maintenance costs and is therefore more cost effective.

To achieve savings we definitely see new machinery as a preferred option. Our customers that have upgraded to the latest models experience a faster turn-around, better quality outcome and more trouble free production’.

As an example Mr Strehle points to is the latest ERA combing machine. ‘This latest machine has a very high production capacity. It combs at more than 50kg per hour for a 21/22 micron wool and in recombing 2.5 - 3 kg per hour for grey wool. This machine guarantees a high quality of combing and is very gentle to the fibre. It can increase productivity by 25%.

All NSC fibre to yarn machinery is equipped with highly efficient motors (class IE2) for engines with 0.75 to 375kW. This is fully compliant with a new directive

by EuP Technical Europe Lot 11 that supports the new IEC

144 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

TEXTILE MACHINERY

60034-30 standard classification performance of electric motors.

ERA Combing Machine

Also high in demand is the GC30 chain gill, with a delivery speed that reaches 600m/min. The D3/D5 GC30 blender defelter is a GC30 with a defelter and blending zone, can also be equipped with an electronic autoleveller.

‘We have developed textile machinery with the latest technology for a variety of customer needs including small and big operations. We are well positioned to deliver customers fully integrated systems and deliver complete production lines from fibre opening and blending to finished bobbins.

We work with other leading machinery manufacturers to supply specific equipment that is not in our product range but is complementary to it, and we manage installation from start to finish. We provide our customers guarantees and assurances’, says Patrick Strehle, Commercial Director at NSC whose head office is in Guebwiller France.

✓ Progressive combing, uniform speed of circular comb, pinned on 360° ✓ Reduced amplitude of carriage and detached rollers in motions ✓ Very high quality tops ✓ High productivity, more than 50kg/hr in 21/22 wool

‘After sales service and customer care is also an integral part of our business. We have representatives in many key locations around the world. We provide a friendly, fast, and meticulous spare parts service using genuine manufacturer’s spare parts’, says Philippe Kohler.

✓ Textile adjustments from machine screen or centralised

‘Our after sales team are expert in all technical issues and we can provide training courses for our customers’ staff. We also offer programs in audits for existing machines, kits for machine renewal and ongoing maintenance programs.’

✓ Possibility of machine interconnection and remote adjustments

For more information please contact: Patrick STREHLE, e-mail: Patrick.strehle@nsc.fr Tel : +33 (0) 3 89 74 41 41

Patrick Strehle, Commercial Director NSC Fibre to Yarn

✓ Memorised recipes for work parameters and easy reproduction ✓ Decrease in operational and maintenance costs

✓ Telediagnostic (optional)

CA6 and CA7 semi worsted card – one of the many top making machines offered by NSC fibre to yarn - from its innovative production range

✓ For all types of wools

✓ CXF hopper feeder

✓ 2.5 to 3.5m working width

✓ TRE/TRD drafting head

✓ CA7 TRIO card for wools with high VM

✓ Integrated suction ✓ Screen control

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 145

TEXTILE MACHINERY

New innovative design in Burr-Beaters for Woollen Cards from Tecnomeccanica After much research and development Tecnomeccanica has developed a new Burr Beater for woollen cards. ‘For some time now woollen mills around the world have found that to replace their Burr Beaters has become more difficult and more costly to replace’, says Mario Ploner of Tecnomeccanica in Biella Italy.

‘We have developed a new design that lasts longer and it is more competitively priced than other models currently available on the market’. ‘Our new design is a special cylinder that turns quickly and can be adjusted very closely to the morrel. It fits all existing machinery and is usually tailor made for each machine’.

and steel to ensure a long life and a perfect result. Wide cylinder has a conical shape to copy the flections in order to achieve a straight surface in the working point against the morrell. We can also supply the spare burrs collector box constructed in sizes according to the existing machine’.

diameter becomes too small and the complete cylinder must be replaced.’The average life span is a maximum 5 years so if you consider that a top maker working with n.8 cards like the Thibeau CA6 is using a minimum of 24 cylinders every 5 years, this is value for money’, says Mr Ploner.

‘Our Burr Beaters can be constructed for THIBEAU CARDS CA 6 AND CA7 and also for OCTIR and for woollen cards. They are produced in a working width of 2500mm or 3500mm and are dynamically balanced to run up to 1600 rpm.

Flayers are hardened in a special combination of nickel, chrome

This new design has a variable number of knives (from 30 to 46) embodied in the cylinder.

They are perfectly straight and hardened in order to remove all vegetable matter from the wool.

Each woollen card has 3 or 4 Burr Beaters (Chasseurs) and these must be removed every 6 months. Each cylinder works for 6 months in a clockwise direction and can then be utilized for a further period in the opposite direction. After this double usage grinding will only reduce to a maximum of 1mm on its radius (2 mm in diameter). After 4 grindings the 146 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

‘Wool top makers all around the world have been concerned about solving the problem in finding this special critical spare cylinder. The technology to produce this special item is quite complicated but at Tecnomeccanica we have developed the technology to manufacture Burr Beaters for the industry’, Mr Ploner commented.

The new Burr Beaters have been tested at some top making plants in Europe and South America. new Burr Beater for woollen cards

For further technical information please contact mario@tbsrl.it

TEXTILE MACHINERY

Innovation in fibre preparation & blending from Tecnomeccanica Tecnomeccanica, synonymous with innovation in textile machinery, has kept up the momentum with its new Burr Beater, now on the market (see separate article).

T

ecnomeccanica has been producing textile machinery for 45 years and is a world leader in the design, manufacture and installation of machinery for staple fibre processing, combing and spinning.

‘To produce quality textile products that meet the right environmental credentials, fibre processors must use the most up-to-date textile machinery’, says Mario Ploner Commercial Director of Tecnomeccanica Biellese srl.

‘Changes in environmental laws has already forced many companies to up-grade their textile machinery. Old and second hand textile machinery can no longer meet today’s demands. We are well aware of the challenges faced by

fibre processors and we work together with them to achieve the best possible result in the most competitive way’, says Mr Ploner.

Mario Ploner Commercial Director Tecnomeccanica

The company is particularly well known for supplying combing mills around the world with automatic plants for opening, beating and blending greasy wool with automatic feeding to scouring lines.

‘Our machines have been used by wool processors and textile manufacturers all around the world for such companies as Loro Piano, Zegna, Modiano, RedaBarberis, Miroglio and many others’.

‘We provide the latest machinery to assist combers in areas of beating and dusting of scoured wool, pneumatic transport to automatic storage bins for scoured wool and card feeding.

We also design and install suction and recycling units for by-products from carding and combing departments’.

‘We are still in the business of upgrading, renovating and repairing machinery should a company need our expertise. We always respond to our clients needs with upgrading and implementing new innovation into their existing structure’, says Mr Ploner. ‘But the future definitely belongs to new and advancing machinery’, he added.

Tecnomeccanica is also a well known supplier of blending

Blending plant designed and manufactured by Tecnomeccanica 148 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

equipment for woollen and semi worsted spinning. It supplies semi and fully automatic plants for preparing blending, dust removal and automatic feeding of carding machines.

Tecnomeccanica has the ability to implement its technology while working within the existing space and machinery of individual clients. It is often favoured for its ability to be extremely flexible when working with customers no matter where they are based.

For more information please contact Mario Ploner at mario@tbsrl.it or www.tbsrl.it

Need new customers?

You will love what these magazines can do for your business Reach buyers worldwide by Advertising in WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL & WOOL EXPORTER (CHINA) magazines • business to business trade directory - circulation 10,000 copies in more than 48 countries worldwide • protect your market share and reinforce your position as a preferred supplier to your existing clients • attract new business - by promoting your company and its products to this targeted readership • cost effective way to reach new clients and your existing customer base • place an advertisement and a Company Profile article - to tell buyers why they should buy from you and not from your competition •

these magazines are kept and referred to by our readers as a buyers’ guide for their purchasing needs for the year ahead

• published only once each year (September) - don’t miss this once a year opportunity - book your advertising space now If you require any further information please contact: Victor Chesky at victorch@bigpond.com

www.woolnews.net PO Box 11, South Caulfield, Melbourne, Victoria 3162, Australia Tel: +61 3 9533 0627 • Fax: +61 3 9533 0727 • Mob: +61 402 076676

TEXTILE MACHINERY

New life for existing machinery Sometimes buying new machinery is just not an option. But with a competitive market demanding quick delivery and the latest product quality, having up-to-date machinery is a must for anymanufacturer.

E

ven old machinery can run like new’, says Frank Vandeputte CEO. ‘We offer spare parts and service for companies that wish to maintain and upgrade their existing machinery.We can deliver new technology that can be fitted into older machines to make them perform faster and more efficiently.’

Valvan Baling Systems is a modern engineering company specializing in the design and the construction of hydraulic baling presses and peripheral equipment, such as feeding systems,

150 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

automatic wrapping and strapping systems, bale handling and automatic warehousing of bales.

The company has responded to changing market needs and has innovated in step with its customers.

‘The fast and reliable worldwide service we provide to our customers is carried outby trained technicians and engineers. They are specialized in mechanics, pneumatics, hydraulics, PLC programming, networking’,says Frank Vandeputte CEO. ‘For example, we have developed a fully automatic

TEXTILE MACHINERY

off-line wrapping and strapping press that wraps and straps all bales coming from several existing baling presses. Thanks to this off-line wrapping and strapping press the production speed and performancehas beengreatly improved. Advances in our computer technology allow us to integrate visualisation systems and to offer remote internet access support to better assist customers, in any location around the world’. Over

the last 15 years, Valvan has taken

exported all over the world. Many of

over several well-known baling press

them are still running in production

manufactures, such as LVD (fiber

plants. Valvan provides spare parts for

baling presses), Piferoen, AteliersSt

all these machinery brands.

Eloi (bump presses). A strong and supportive working relationship with sister company Gualchierani Baling Systems exists.

The company also offers consumables such as: Cut and loop wire, Polyester strap,

Quiklinks,

Rewound

coils,

Steel strap, and Wrapping material.

Some of these manufacturers have

For

been producing baling presses for more

Valvan

further

than 50 years and the machines were

www.valvan.com E: sales@valvan.com

Baling

information Systems

about Website:

Widest range of baling presses for wool Valvan Baling Systems in Belgium offers the widest range of baling press solutions to textile producersas well as horizontal presses for waste materials.’While the cost of fibre is generally influenced by market demand, the cost of labour can be controlled and reduced by using the latest machinery’, says Frank Vandeputte CEO. ‘The introduction of an innovative baling system into any wool processing line will increase productivity and reduce downtime’.

V

alvan provides customized solutions for all stages of fibre handling. Especially for greasy wool collectors and sorters, it designed a single box press with a production capacity of up to 2.000 kg/ h and a bale weight of up to 450 kg.This single box press is equipped with a movable slanting feeding belt to facilitate the filling.

For baling scoured wool the company offers single box presses with a production capacity of up to 1.200 kg/ h and a bale weight of up to 320 kg/ bale. For higher capacities,it can installsemi and full-automatic swivel box presses (lift box type)up to 3.500 kg/ h and bale weights up to 500 kg.

For low production capacities of up to 800 kg/ h, Valvan manufactureslow cost horizontal channel presses and basic single box presses, producing bales of up to 200 kg.

For the wool top industry, Valvan offers bumps presses of 400-600-800

mm with a capacity of 20 bumps/h with manual loading and manual rope-tying or up to 50 bumps/ h with automatic rope-tying.

For each of these applications Valvan can supply custom-made peripheral equipment such as feeding systems, automatic wrapping and strapping systems, and bale handling and warehousing systems in order to facilitate or eliminate manual labor.

‘All our machines are designed in 3D and produced in our own workshops, including hydraulic power packs, hydraulic cylinders and electrical cabinets. This ensures our quality level and allows for short lead-times on spare parts’, says Mr Vandeputte.

years Valvan has successfully taken over three other well-known baling press manufacturers - LVD (fibre presses), Piferoen (horizontal presses) and St.-Eloi (bump presses). A strong and supportive working relationship with sister company Gualchierani Baling Systems exists.Some of these manufacturers have been producing baling presses for more than 50 years and the machines were exported all over the world. Many of them are still running in production plants. For all of these machines Valvan can supply service and spare parts.

For further information please contact Valvan Baling Systems nv Tel: +32 56 521 380 – Fax: +32 56 518 334 Email: sales@valvan.com website: www.valvan.com

Valvan employs a team that deliver a high level of technical support, and the multilingual after-sales department offer fast and reliable, remote and onsite service. For new machines, it also supplies systems for remote support through internet access. In the last 15 Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 151

TEXTILE MACHINERY

Market leader for bump presses for wool and acrylic tops Gualchierani Baling Systems and sister companies Valvan Baling Systems and Saint-Eloi have joined forces and lead the market in bump presses for wool and acrylic tops.

I

n 2010, Gualchierani Baling Systems (GBS) joined forces with Valvan Baling Systems (VBS). In 2005 Valvan Baling Systems alreadyacquired the bump press business for acrylic and wool tops from St-Eloi.

This has resulted in a combined knowledge and experience in bump pressing and baling pressing.

While the company still produces the traditional and simple St-Eloi presses with rope strapping, it has experienced an increasing interest in automation

possibilities of existing bump presses, especially from China, mainly due to increasing labor costs.

The company recently installed a bump palletizer system after a St-Eloi bump pressin China, where a gripping mechanism takes a bump from the ejection position of the press and places it automatically into a specially designed cart. The palletizing robot is equipped with an accurate positioning mechanism that neatly stacks the bumps in the appropriate composition.

By using 2 rows for carts, a

continuous stacking process is guaranteed: when a cart is full, the robot automatically starts filling the empty cart in the other row. In the meantime, an operator has time to remove the full cart in the other row and replace it with an empty cart.

For low capacity, the full carts can be brought manually to the baling press where the cart is automatically emptied and a high pressure bale is made.

For customers with high capacity requirements, the company can offer automatic cart transport by using special shuttles.

In the past Gualchierani Baling Systemsproduced several High Density Baling Presses for scoured wool.

The scope of supply includes baling presses for scoured wool with a production of bales of 400 to 420 kg and dimensions 740 x 720 x 1.140 mm allowing to load 20 to 22 tons in a 20’ container.

After filling of the press box, the main press ram comes down, compacting the wool.

As wool is very resilient, this induces a lot of stress on the side walls of the press box.

If the press box gets lifted under pressure, this can cause damage to the fiber. To avoid this, the machine is especially equipped with side walls that can move outwards before they get lifted.

An innovative option provided by GBS is a system to automatically take samples of the scoured wool while the bale

152 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

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is on the evacuation roller conveyor. Gualchierani Baling Systems is a project oriented company. The customer can discuss its requirements and based on this GBS will propose the best solution.

This can result in changed box sizes, number of straps, etc.

For every application the company provides a customized control system that could be a simple relay technology or operator friendly PC controlled network with operational remote control.

Introducing such latest baling technology will enhance a faster turnaround, offer considerable savings in labor costs and protect the quality of the product.

Presses are assembled at the Valvan factory in Belgium. All enquiries for Gualchierani machinery and after sales service is also handled at the Valvan head office.

Gualchierani Baling Systems nv continues to improve and produce High Density presses (up to 500T) for scoured wool.

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 153

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Sant’ Andrea Novara delivers the latest in worsted units, preparation and spinning machinery features which determined the success of the previous RF 4 model (modular structure and double rubbing) have not changed in the new vertical finisher but its performance is improved by new technical solutions.

Today combers, spinners and weavers must manufacture their products at great speed, in great quantities and at a great price, and the only way to achieve this is to use the latest technology that is offered by leading textile machinery manufacturers.

S

ant’ Andrea Novara is a brand well known to all textile processing companies around the world. It is a world leader in manufacturing and installing high-performance machinery for top making, blending and spinning in the sector of wool and other fibres. You will rarely find a processing plant anywhere around the world that does not utilise Sant’ Andrea machines. Based in the Italian city of Novara, Sant’ Andrea has been supplying textile machinery since 1928.

‘The investment we have made in research and development has enabled us to offer the most advanced textile machinery. Our Sant’ Andrea Novara machines are a benchmark in terms of quality and efficiency, says Silvio Givoni, Sales Director.

‘Our RF5 is a vertical finisher with a double apron. The modular design means that it can run at all times. It produces a high quality of sliver at maximum speed with 2200 strokes per minute with a speed of up to 300 metres per minute.

The ratch settings on the RF5 drafting assemblies can be adjusted through a servo-control mechanism, in between feeding and drafting, allowing fibre control to all diagrams’.

The

154 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

main

construction

‘It has an excellent working speed and is mechanically reliable, and in terms of efficiency and quality results is considered the most advanced in its field’, says Silvio Givone.

The RF5 is available in two versions, to meet any process needs. The RF5a version is recommended for medium/fine and extra-fine counts, while the RF5b version is suitable for medium/large counts and high production speeds.

The SH multi-head drawing frame is another line favoured by textile processors around the world. The new SH drawing frame is used for the preparation to spinning of wool-diagram fibres.

The Multi-head drawing frame has separate sliver paths to eliminate any “marriage”. Intersectingdisc control heads with rotating disk movement guarantees the delicate handling of the fibres and the excellent quality results. The multi-head drawing frame SH is equipped with the new Dialoguer user machine interface.

Sant’ Andrea Novara also markets machinery specifically dedicated to cashmere fibre processing - The Sant’ Andrea Novara VSN draw frame is capable of working this precious fibre. The screw gills VSN guarantees an optimal quality with increased production. ‘Our customers include some of the most important and prominent names in Italian cashmere’, says Mr Givone.

Another key machine from the Sant Andrea Novara machines range is the ALFA combing machine results in a better sliver cleanliness due to the increased combing time of the circular comb, as well as remarkable production results (speed up to 260 cycles/min), and reduced time for the changing of lots’.

For more information please contact Silvio Givone E-mail: info@santandreanovara.com

s it n u n r a y o t e r ib f Long staple

07/2012

Cognetex promote Sant’Andrea Novara and production lines. innovating and efficient Cognetex Sant’Andrea Novara and a wide range design and manufacture e of natural of solutions for yarns mad and synthetic fibres: • Top making lines recombing lines d an ng di en bl , ng lti fe De • • Tow to top lines • Semi-worsted lines

TEL. +39 0321 3721 info@santandreanovara.com

WOOL TESTING

AWTA launches new interactive Raw Wool website

T

he new AWTA (Australian Wool Textile Authority) website launched by the company was developed as part of AWTA’s ongoing efforts to enhance the quality and availability of information.

It provides a variety of information to users of Australian wool to assist them in understanding testing methods and technical aspects of Australian wool.

It also offers quick and user-friendly navigation to essential information on the broader AWTA Ltd group.

This website includes information on testing raw wool, scoured and carbonised wool and speciality fibres such as Mohair, Alpaca and Cashmere.

It also provides information on sampling, testing and certifying the yield, fibre diameter, vegetable matter content, staple length and staple strength of greasy wool before it is sold.

Users of Australian wool can also use this website to verify testing certificates in both English and Chinese. They can also view the latest information on wool testing equipment available through AWTA. www.awta.com.au

Quick return of certified test results

T

oday buyers and sellers of Australian wool require a quick return of certified test results. AWTA (Australian Wool Textile Authority) provides three different levels of service to meet customer needs. Its Express Service issues 95% of certificates the following morning, Fast Service issues 95% of certificates within 3 days, and the Normal Service issues all certificates within 5 days.

AWTA laboratories operate in Australia 24 hours a day 5 days a week. Sampling 156 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

is conducted in 38 cities and towns throughout Australia.

Virtually all Australian wool is measured and tested prior to sale.

With the benefit of AWTA certification wool processors purchasing Australian wool can confidently expect that wool purchased to their price and processing specifications and will perform to their requirements. Growers are assured of being paid according to the objective specification of their wool.

‘While the availability of objective measurements for Yield, Vegetable Matter and Mean Fibre Diameter improved many aspects of the prediction of processing performance, it is also influenced by other parameters of which Staple Length & Strength is considered to be the most important’, says Ian Ashman, AWTA General Manager Customer Relations.

That determines the value of combing wool with an average fibre length, which will be achieved after processing.

This length is known as Hauteur.

Research has shown that Hauteur is closely correlated to the staple length and staple strength of greasy wool.

‘Most processors today use a more diverse mix of combing wool types. It is vital that all lots purchased are tested for Staple Length & Strength’, says Mr Ashman. ‘This is doubly important in skirting types where the variability within sale lots will be higher than fleece types’.

‘All Australian wool can be easily tested. Such wool testing enables wool processors to predict how the wool will perform during processing and what the end result will be before the processor even starts his machine’.

AWTA only certifies tests that have

been taken by AWTA sampling officers or where sampling operations have been supervised on a fully time basis

by AWTA. This process is endorsed

by Australian National Committee of IWTO.

Electronic certification offers assurance to buyers of Australian wool

E

lectronic Certification has been available to buyers of Australian wool for some time. Buyers and users can validate their wool testing certificates by using the (Australian Wool Textile Authority) AWTA online verification system. They can use this system to check the authenticity of wool measurement certificates that they receive. The results of verification are sent by email in a secure pdf format.

‘Our principle business has always been the certification of greasy wool for trading’, says Ian Ashman AWTA General Manager Customer Relations.

‘We see ourselves as providing a bridge between the research and the commercial application in testing. The introduction of electronic certificates is just another extension of this and provides an additional level of assurance and security to all sectors of the wool industry’.

AWTA Raw Wool Australia is the largest division within AWTA Ltd and provides independent and objective wool certification services. AWTA Raw Wool’s major services are sampling, testing and certifying the yield, fibre diameter, vegetable matter content, staple length and staple strength of greasy wool before it is sold.

AWTA certificates can be viewed at www.awtawooltesting.com.au

For Results you can Trust

WOOL TESTING

NZWTA tests wool from Chile and the Falkland Islands

F

or over 25 years NZWTA Ltd has been sampling and testing wool from Chile. In recent years the proportion of the wool clip being tested has increased significantly.

The majority of the Chilean Wool is produced in Magallanes Region in the South of Chile based around Punta Arenas. Sheep breeding is founded on the Corriedale sheep introduced from New Zealand in the 1950’s and 60’s.

The wool clip has important wool qualities with fibre diameter ranging from 16 to 30 microns. The wool has exceptionally good colour, and low Vegetable Matter content.

NZWTA Wool Trade Diary 2013/2014 NZWTA Ltd has released the 20132014 edition of its popular Wool Trade Diary. The diary contains a comprehensive list of NZWTA Contacts, New Zealand wool statistics, New Zealand Wool Trade Contacts, and the 2013/2014 Wool Sale Roster.

The Diary is available free of charge to wool industry businesses. For the past three years a version of the Wool Trade Diary has been available in Chinese. The diaries can be obtained by contacting NZWTA directly or through their China representative Zhang Pei Yi. website www.nzwta.co.nz emailing testing@nzwta.co.nz or by contacting Zhang Pei Yi (Penny) in Shanghai Phone: 0086 21 6317 4823 Mobile: 0086 21 1592 1013 302 Email: zhangpenny@hotmail.com

158 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

According to NZWTA’s Customer Services Manager Phil Cranswick, the introduction of certified wool testing to Chile has enabled both local and international processors to purchase wool with confidence that their processing expectations will be met.

“Wool testing has opened the Chilean wool clip up to the world” he says.

More recently wool from the Falkland Islands has been sampled on the Islands and sent to New Zealand for testing. This wool is white and bright and ranges from 18 to 30 micron with low VM. Testing the wool prior to shipping has enabled a marketing programme to be undertaken, with the purchaser having certainty over processing performance.

Falklands Island wool was traditionally shipped directly to the UK but testing on the islands

has created options for wool growers for sending wool direct to processors in both South America and Europe.

NZWTA Website proves a valuable resource for the International Wool Trade The website www.nzwta.co.nz is a popular site for members of the international wool trade. The website provides a detailed list of New Zealand Wool Industry contacts, as well as details of wool and textile tests and the wool auction roster for the current season.

It also includes NZ Wool Production Statistics for the past 3 seasons.

Seasonal variations in fibre diameter, colour yield and Vegetable Matter content are available for Merino wool, and crossbred wool in both North Island and South Islands. A handy conversion table of comparative yields is also included.

The website provides access to the

WOOL TESTING

“certificate verification” service established by NZWTA to allow purchasers of wool to validate the test certificates they have been presented.

This service can be accessed by all certificate holders and is particularly useful where copies of test data have been emailed or faxed to customers.

The verification process can be accessed using the link http://verify.nzwta. co.nz/. The results of the verification are sent via email in a secure pdf format.

Where customers have samples for testing, importation procedures and documents are available to be downloaded from the website.

Textile testing just part of the new laboratory services offered by NZWTA Ltd In December 2010 NZWTA purchased the long established textile testing laboratory from AgResearch.

The Laboratory had been the centre of the world-renown Wool Research

heads a team of staff with extensive industry and laboratory experience.

“Between our laboratory and that of our parent company AWTA Ltd we can provide a comprehensive range of tests”, she says.

The laboratory has a focus on carpet and Textile Operations Manager Lorraine Greer with Textile Technologist Christian Judan discussing pack specifications for New Zealand Woolgrowers.

Organisation of New Zealand (WRONZ), based at Lincoln near Christchurch.

Textile Operations Manager Lorraine Greer has continued to manage the relocated laboratory and is delighted with the way it has incorporated into the NZWTA business. “We transferred the laboratory to Napier and achieved Accreditation to ISO17025 within weeks of the transfer. The laboratory has been successfully integrated into the raw wool testing facilities of NZWTA in Napier,” she says. Lorraine

fabric

testing

with

specific

attention to products for the New Zealand market. Increasing emphasis has been on “High Visibility” safety garments. “We also test the suitability of wool packs for the New Zealand market”, says Lorraine Greer.

With New Zealand providing large volumes of wool grease to international markets a suite of tests have been developed for both quality control and trading.

A comprehensive list of tests and prices can be obtained from the NZWTA website www.nzwta.co.nz or by contacting Lorraine directly.

Phone +64 6 8335621 Email Lorraine.greer@nzwta.co.nz

Independent wool testing services across the globe SGS Wool Testing Services is extensively used by wool producers, buyers, brokers, and wool export companies in New Zealand, as well as by animal fibre growers, sellers and buyers worldwide.

T

Scoured wool - container loading verification 160 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

he company has been independently measuring greasy wool, scoured wool, and tops and sliver to verify quality and quantity across different criteria for over 40 years. It operates to International Wool and Textile Organisation (IWTO) standards.

‘Certification must be provided by an organisation totally independent of parties involved in the transactions’, says Jeremy Wear manager of SGS Wool Testing Services in New Zealand.

‘SGS is completely independent, and has no producer, seller, buyer or processor interests’.

WOOL TESTING

The company is well known to buyers and exporters of New Zealand wool but its services can be used by companies anywhere in the world. ‘Contact us here in New Zealand and we will liaise with the SGS office closest to the origin of the wool you wish to buy to arrange for that fibre to be tested with us. This service is quick and cost effective, particularly when a number of samples are provided. SGS operates more than 1500 offices and laboratories worldwide.

‘When you need to be sure about what wool you are buying we can provide inspection, verification, testing and certification services – anywhere in the world’, says Jeremy Wear of SGS Wool Testing Services in New Zealand.

SGS provides online services as well as a greater involvement in on-farm sampling and testing.

Last year SGS NZ tested a 10.7µm bale, the finest bale that it has ever measured. The wool was grown at the Emmerson family farm in the Canterbury region of the South Island. The Emmerson family has been using SGS fleece testing

services

for

animal

selection and objective classing for nearly 2 decades.

In addition to the Interwoollabs standards, SGS uses 13 and 15 micron validation tops specially sourced from Italy and measured at a number of internationallyaccredited laboratories.

SGS also offers yarn, fabric and carpet inspection and testing through their extensive network of accredited Consumer Testing Services laboratories, situated in all major exporting or consumer countries. Jeremy Wear can be contacted at nz.wool@sgs.com

Anna Emmerson with 10.67 micron bale - the finest NZ bale that SGS has ever measured

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 161

WOOL TESTING

WOOL TESTING WOOL TESTING AUTHORITY AUTHORITY EUROPE EUROPE

Europe’s premier wool testing service accuracy and precision Wool Testing Authority Europe (WTAE) carries out tests to describe the characteristics of wool and predict its processing performance. Wool buyers and processors are prepared to pay more for wool that has been tested. Testing provides a good understanding of each bale of wool, its key characteristics, and how it will perform in processing. Exporters who test their wool can provide these assurances and will generally get better prices than those that do not.

Wool Testing Authority Europe Ltd Unit 7, Lon Barcud, Wool Authority CibynTesting Industrial Estate Europe Ltd Unit 7, Lon Barcud, Caernarfon, Gwynedd, LL55 2BD Cibyn UnitedIndustrial Kingdom Estate Caernarfon, Gwynedd, LL55 2BD Tel: +44 (0) 1286 678 097 United Kingdom Fax: +44 (0) 1286 678 039 Tel: +44 (0) 1286 678 097 email : info@wtaeurope.com Fax: +44 (0) 1286 678 039 wtaeurope.com email : info@wtaeurope.com wtaeurope.com Tim Parkes, General Manager Wool Testing Authority Europe (WTAE).

‘Providing your customer with WTAE Certification offers them vital information and assurance’, says Tim Parkes, Managing Director at Wool Testing Authority Europe (WTAE).

Accredited to ISO 17025:2005 by United Kingdom Accreditation Service (UKAS).

Accredited to ISO 17025:2005 by InternationalWool Textile Organisation (IWTO) Licensed.

United Accreditation Service (UKAS).

MemberKingdom of the Independent Laboratories Round Trial (ILRT) InternationalWool Textile Organisation (IWTO) Licensed. group of laboratories the Independent Laboratories Round Trial (ILRT) Member of Interwoollabs. group of laboratories Member of Interwoollabs.

162 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

Testing certificates provide both buyer and seller with certainty about the wool offered. ‘Clean wool yield varies considerably depending on wool type, quality of grading or classification and geographical origin. To know the quantity of clean wool which can be obtained from a greasy shipment is important for both commercial and processing reasons’, says Mr Parkes. Some European greasy wool exporters will find that testing their wool can open new markets and attract new buyers.

WTAE tests wool using the procedures specified by the International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO). These methods are regularly reviewed by the IWTO. The WTAE offers an Online Certificate Verification service which provides confirmation to wool users that the details on the IWTO Test Certificate or Test Report in their possession are

WOOL TESTING

correct. By entering the Test Number, Verification Code and email address in the appropriate boxes the wool user will receive a PDF copy of the Certificate in return. This will enable a rapid comparison and verification that the documents you hold, and the results in the WTAE database, are the same.

The company operates from locations in Caernarfon, North Wales, Bradford, West Yorkshire and has an extensive sampling capability across Europe. It provides an objective, cost effective wool testing service to providers and users of wool throughout the Northern Hemisphere and the rest of the World, ensuring both independence and integrity of wool certification.

WTAE core tests greasy wool for yield including Vegetable Matter (VM), Fibre Diameter and Colour. Scoured wool and wool tops can be tested

for Conditioned Weight (Regain & Moisture Content), Yield including Vegetable Matter (VM), Fibre Diameter, Colour and Residual Grease. Fleece Measurement is available for Fibre Diameter, Staple Length, Washing Yield, and Colour.

‘We use a series of analytical techniques to firstly determine the quantity of clean dry wool fibre in a shipment of greasy wool. “Wool Base” is the amount of oven dry fibre cleaned from all impurities like dirt, mineral material, vegetable matter and grease’.

In addition to Wool Base, WTAE Certificates show “Calculated Commercial Yields”. There are a number of different calculated commercial yields which can be shown on the certificate depending on customer requirements. The two commercial yields usually requested are “IWTO Scoured Yield at 16%

Regain” and IWTO Schlumberger Dry. IWTO Scoured Yield at 16% Regain is the Wool Base and Vegetable Matter Base

plus

16%

Moisture

Regain

expressed as a percentage of 100% minus a small allowance for VM Residual Mineral Material and Grease.

IWTO Schlumberger Dry also predicts the amount of Top and Noil which can be combed from the shipment.

Processing fibre losses are generally higher in percentage for European Wool then wools from the Southern Hemisphere. This is important to understand when selling or buying wools from Europe.

For information about how your wool can be tested please contact Tim Parkes at WTAE tim.parkes@wtaeurope.com or info@wtaeurope.com.

Telephone 0044 (0) 1286678097

Are you looking for more customers?

I

wool processors and topmakers, manufacturers of yarn, carpets and rugs, spinners and weavers, cloth and garment manufacturers including major brand names and major retail chains.

rrespective of how successful your business is today communicating with new buyers is important to staying ahead of your competition.

It is also important to constantly remind your existing customers that continuing to buy from you, not your competitor, is a benefit to them as well.

If telling 5000 companies around the world about what your company can offer sounds like an impossible task - advertise in WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL and reach them all.

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL magazine is circulated to buyers in more than 52 countries worldwide including Eastern and Western Europe, the UK, USA, South America,

India and Australasia. WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL is a trade directory that is published once each year (September).

It is circulation to 5000 textile companies including importers of wool and speciality fibres,

Many of these companies keep this publication and refer to it for their purchasing decisions over the coming year. The next issue of WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL will be published in September 2014.

Companies wishing to see the latest issue and find out more about advertising opportunities and costs should contact the Editor, Victor Chesky by email at victorch@bigpond.com.

WOOL TRADE INTERNATIONAL is an English language publication. Circulation 5000 in over 52 countries worldwide including Western Europe: Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Italy, Netherlands, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Eastern Europe: Bulgaria, Croatia, Czech Republic, Georgia, Hungary, Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Romania, and Russia. Australia, India, Iran, Japan, Nepal, South Korea, Pakistan, New Zealand and South Africa. South America: Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Columbia, Mongolia, Peru, and Uruguay. Mexico, Turkey, UK, USA and more. Published by ITP Postal Address: PO Box 11, Caulfield South, Melbourne, Victoria, AUSTRALIA Tel. 61 3 9533 0627, Fax 61 3 9533 0727 www.woolnews.net

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 163

WOOL TESTING

Wool Testing Bureau South Africa The Wool Testing Bureau (WTB) had experienced positive growth during the 2012/2013 season. The number of Yield and Diameter tests increased by 4.8%, as a result of an increase in the volume of wool produced locally. The outlook for the coming season is positive and wool volumes are expected to stay at current levels.

T

he number of Length and Strength tests has also increased significantly.

The adoption rate, expressed as the percentage of Yield and Diameter samples tested for Length and Strength, has increased from 53.6% to 59.2%. This growth in Length and Strength testing has necessitated an increase in testing capacity. As a result, the Company purchased a sixth ATLAS machine which will be commissioned in time for the next wool season.

The increased adoption of additional objective measurements has direct benefits for buyers and processors, who can use the information to predict the processing performance of the product they purchase. Predictions, by means of the TEAM 3 formulas, allow mills to optimise raw wool inputs to meet the required specifications in the top.

Wian Heath General Manger Wool Testing Bureau South Africa

The Company introduced electronic Certificates in 2012 to simplify the documentation process

related to the sale and export of South African wool. These documents are available as encrypted, digitally signed PDF files. The validity of certificates can be verified by using an online verification service available at http:// verify.wtbsa.co.za.

A comprehensive range of specialised testing services are also available from the Textile Testing Services Division of WTB. This includes SANAS accredited testing for Chemical, Colour Fastness, Dimensional and

Yarns,

Stability, Flammability,

Fabrics Floor

coverings and Automotive Testing.

To accommodate the expansion of the Scope of Accreditation, a larger diversity of testing services and a growing customer base, the Company is continuously investing in new equipment.

WTB is actively involved in IWTO to ensure the correct application of the latest technical standards relating to wool testing and certification within the Company and the local industry.

Participation in proficiency testing programs such as Interwoollabs and the ILRT group enables the harmonisation of test results with other major international Test Houses.

WTB maintains a high level of technical competence and is committed to providing world-class testing services to the South African wool industry.

164 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

WOOL TESTING

OFDA technology offers clear advantage in speed and accuracy OFDA2000

OFDA 4000

O

ptical-based Fibre Diameter Analyser (OFDA) technology has been designed for Rapid Automatic Measurement of Diameter, Length and Curvature of wool, alpaca, cashmere, synthetic, glass and other fibres by video image analysis. Today there are now more than 380 of these units in use in 30 countriesworldwide.

OFDA technology is used at all stages of the wool-processing pipeline, from greasy fleece through to yarnand fabric.

“With the price and comfort of wool and cashmere so strongly dependant on diameter, from Mongolia to Italy, OFDA should be the instrument of choice. Demand for the OFDA range of instruments remains strong from the wool industry in emerging processing countries, and is increasing in the cashmere and alpaca industries”, says Mark Brims, Western Australian based scientist and CEO of BSC Electronics.

‘Accurate measurement is a vital factor in quality control for these fibre types. Some of the instruments have measured over 1 million samples.’

BSC Electronics developed the OFDA 100 some 21 years ago and is a world leader with a unique range of fibre measurement instruments. ‘The main

166 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

software application systems.The latest OFDA2000 is now fully digital and can be interfaced to the PC via USB.The OFDA 2000 was a natural next step and has provided an efficient and cost effective way for woolgrowers to more consistently meet industry demands.’OFDA2000 has been used to class wool into the finest bale ever produced’.

The OFDA4000is fully digital and connects to the PC via USB, which carries the same advantages as the OFDA2000. IT is recognised for measuring diameter, hauteur and optical length in IWTO -62.

advantages of this technology are its accuracy and portability. It can be used on farm or in the laboratory.

It is easy to operate and runs on standard Windows PC to allow easy networking, printing and export of data to spreadsheet formats’, says Mr Brims.

The original OFDA100 instrument has been replaced by the OFDA2000 which is available in 2 versions: laboratory and portable. Both versions are equal in speed and accuracy and can measure fibre snippets on 70x70mm glass slides in the same way as OFDA100, as recognised in IWTO47. Both versions can also measure the fibres in staple mode, to allow rapid measurement without washing and cutting the fibres, and can measure the diameter variation along the staple caused by changes in the animal’s diet and environment.

‘We needed to achieve a level of testing accuracy that would meet Australian and IWTO wool testing standards’, says Mr Brims. ‘We knew that it would need to be lightweight, portable, extremely durable and quick and easy to operate. We developed it using the proven OFDA 100 systems, in conjunction with management

‘OFDA4000 is the first instrument to measure length by direct optical means and as it does not use a capacitance based sensor it is able to accurately measure blends of different fibre types and different fibre diameter’, says Mr Brims. Calculated Hauteur values are also provided for compatibility with previous technology. Optical length measurement is recommended for more accurate short fibre content and adjustment of processing machines to provide the best quality product.

Its main advantage is its ability to measure all main wool fibre characteristics in one measurement, with greatly reduced operator involvement. Diameter vs. length is also provided.

The cost, size and weight of the OFDA400 system is considerably lower than the 3 instruments (Fibroliner, Almeter, OFDA100 or Laserscan) that it replaces. The software is included to allow viewing, blending and exporting results to spreadsheet.

There is no need to buy extra software to combine results from different instruments. OFDA instruments are sold under license worldwide - to find an agent in your country please visit www.ofda.com

URUGUAY

Full traceability from farm to finished tops offered by

Lanas Trinidad S.A. Uruguayan top makers must compete internationally in quality and price as well as in animal welfare and environmental issues. Today Uruguayan wool top makers adhere to high quality animal welfare, and employ high environmental standards, and are still internationally competitive according to Mr Otegui Managing Director of Lanas Trinidad. ‘Environmental credentials and reducing the carbon footprint should not be a deterrent to selling competitively priced wool tops’.

Uruguay produces 28 million kilos of tops annually, making it the second largest exporter in the world. Lanas Trinidad is the biggest topmaker in Uruguay with a processing capacity of 12 million kgs of wool top. It supplies customers in China, Eastern and Western Europe, USA, South Korea, Japan, United Kingdom, and South America.

‘Our wool tops come with full traceability papers, all the way from the farm to the finished top. The papers include information about the growing conditions and care management of the sheep. We can also provide our customers with total assurance that detergents and chemicals used by us at Lanas Trinidad are all biodegradable. And of

Pedro Otegui, Managing Director at Lanas Trinidad

“ What the customer needs is what the customer gets. Customer satisfaction is paramount at Lanas Trinidad

”

course we do not mules in Uruguay’, says Mr Otegui.

Fine and super fine Merino, Dohne Merino, Ideal, Merilin and Corriedale, come directly from the fields and are packed in polyethylene film. The fleeces are separated one by one according to their different fineness and quality, thus completing the first link in a solid traceability system.

‘La Barraca’ The company’s greasy wool laboratory is accredited ISO / IEC 17025:2005.

It examines the various parameters and characteristics of wool that will then be developed into products that fit each customer’s requirements accurately expressed to the nearest tenth of a micron.

Lanas Trinidad produces tops in the range of 18-30 microns presented in rolls or bumps of different weights for different export markets.

They are certified Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and comply with the requirements established by the REACH (European Regulation on Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemical substances).

‘Our wool scouring uses about 800 cubic meters per day of fresh water. To ensure that we are self-sufficient, we have constructed a dam with a capacity of one million cubic meters and an

168 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

URUGUAY

suitability for various uses in many climates.

Waste water biological treatment and forestry irrigation

aqueduct to transport the water 7 kilometres from the dam to the plant. This is rain water, a renewable resource, therefore avoiding the use of river and underground sources for the washing process’.

Uruguay is excellent quality. It possesses characteristics of high value for industrial processes and products.

Fine and superfine wools are increasingly in demand in the world, with

Lanas Trinidad’s processing facility covers an area of 140 ​​ hectares. After the removal of wool grease, factory effluent containing biodegradable organic substances are treated biologically with anaerobic and aerobic processes. Once processed, the water purity levels far exceed the requirements of legislation and are suitable for discharge into natural resources allowing for other uses such as tree irrigation. The trees agronomic irrigation facilitates faster growth contributing to the uptake of carbon dioxide, one of the gases causing the greenhouse effect. The factory boiler is fed exclusively with wood. This is a renewable energy source and is in balance with the preservation of the atmosphere.

Such a self-supply circuit of water and wastewater treatment promotes biodiversity in treatment ponds by planting native species such as trees, reeds and cattails, which

Lanas Trinidad treats water after processing for use in irrigation for local agriculture

are used by local craftsmen.

Now that the water treatment plant has been completed the company has commenced work on a generator plant for methane gas and electricity next to the mill. It is expected that 25% of all electricity will be sourced from this plant.

Certification offered by Lanas Trinidad includes: • Oeko-Tex Standard 100 • 2013 Interwoollabs Certificate • Global standards for organic textiles (GOTS) certified

by IMO (Institute for Marketecology) • System Safety Management and Occupational Health as required by the OHSAS 18001:2007 • Quality Management System according to the requirements of ISO 9001:2008 EX: 7.3 and 7.5.2 • ISO / IEC 17025:2005 General Requirements for the competence of testing and calibration laboratories • System Environmental Management as required by ISO 14001:2004 ‘In additional to our traceability and environmental management programs we offer a personal service. What the customer needs is what the customer gets. Customer satisfaction is paramount at Lanas Trinidad’, concludes Mr Otegui.

For more information about Lanas Trinidad – Email: CwUruguay@wtp.com.uy www.lanastrinidad.com Tel: 598-26061819/26010024 Fax: 598-26060032

170 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

URUGUAY

Uruguay Wool Industry in Review Uruguayan wool growers have aimed to produce finer mid-micron type wools, as well as fat lambs (dual purpose with finer wool); and Merino wool growers with fine wool producing programs are still in operation aiming at producing finer wools (less than 20 microns) of good strength and colour (at present = 1.5 mkg greasy).

Exports of raw wool and wool tops in the 2012/13 season reached a total volume of 41 mkg (greasy basis) which represent a 7% decrease compared to the 2011/12 season.

Due to the variety of sheep breeds in Uruguay there is a wide range of wool with different microns and product purposes offered to the most varied and demanding requirements of the markets. However the majority of the offer lies in the mid-micron range, between 25 and 32 microns (65%).

In terms of volume, the exports of wool tops represented 65% of total wool exports, greasy wools 20% and scoured wools 15%. The volume of greasy wools exported during 2012/13 was also reduced in 12%.

Uruguay’s wool production profile 18.5um & finer - 4% 18.6um to 24.5um - 31% 24.6um to 32.5um - 62%

F

or the 2013-14 season it is expected that a slight increment in wool production will be achieved by increasing production per animal. It is estimated that the sheep population will reach 8.2 million in 2013-2014.

‘The current seasonal conditions have been good compared with the previous season and there has been no change to the

Roberto Cardellino

on-farm production mix. It is therefore expected that the sheep population will remain at the same levels to the end of 201314’, says Roberto Cardellino.

However, in the last few months, and as a consequence of very low price levels for mid micron wools, there has been an increase in the slaughtering rate of breeding ewes, which might eventually cause a new reduction in the number of sheep.

The main issues facing the Uruguayan Wool Industry remain as in previous years and include; mixed livestock farmers (beef and sheep) continue to perceive better returns for alternative farming enterprises which could put pressure on the present sheep population; internal wool prices in Uruguay are at present higher than long term averages, but well below 2012 prices. Over time

32.6um & broader - 3% Uruguay ranks as the second largest exporter of wool tops in the world, after China. This is the result of large investment in local combing plants (5) where this process is carried out.

‘Nevertheless increasing energy costs and the strength of the Uruguayan currency over the last 10 years has resulted in the closure of the few spinning, weaving and garment mills once operational in Uruguay’, says Mr Cardellino.

The lukewarm presence of China in the market of greasy wools and wool tops during this year, plus the patchy participation of Europe in the market has seen challenging market conditions for Uruguayan exporters.

China, Germany and Italy accounted for nearly 63% of total wool exports. The remainder is distributed to over 50 destinations. Most of the greasy wool is exported to China (78% of total), but India is increasing purchases.

Regarding the exports of wool tops, the situation remains the same, with China as the main individual market (24%), followed by Germany (20%) and Italy (13%).

Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 171

URUGUAY

although we believe that up 20% of this seasons’ clip has been held back by farmers, hoping for better prices, we are still able to satisfy our clients worldwide’.

Rantex meets demand for greasy wool Rantex has retained its position as leading exporter of greasy wool from Uruguay. ‘Over 51% of all greasy wool exports from Uruguay come from us’, says Richard Seizer, company chairman and current President of the Uruguay Wool Exporters & Scourers Association.

T

he company buys direct from farmers and consignee houses through its collecting warehouse based just outside Montevideo.

It classifies the wool fleece by fleece. The result is grading by style and micron in a wide range.

The micron achieved is between 20.0 to a maximum medium crossbred at 33 – 35 microns.

Mindful of the plants’ environmental impact Rantex

complies with effluent treatment according to Uruguayan regulations. ‘We meet the requirements of each individual client, whether they need greasy or scoured wool, while maintaining environmental considerations’.

Rantex also operates a grease extraction facility, adding wool grease to its list of export products. ‘The demand for our greasy wool is still good. And

Rantex is managed by Richard Seizer and sons Maximiliano and Alejandro from its Head office in Montevideo

‘We handle the wools in our 6.600 m2 warehouse; we classify and sort according to the requirements of our clients.

This individual approach is something that is not so usual these days, but is certainly appreciated by our clients’, says Mr Seizer. Rantex can class and press pack around 50 tons of greasy wool per day. ‘We meet the requirements of each individual client, whether they require greasy or scoured wool.

The company scouring plant is located on the same site as the warehouse. It has a daily production of 35/40 tons of greasy wool. It can scour 30 tons of wool in a 24 hour period.

‘We have a quick service with a quick turnaround. Over the years we have built a reputation for personal service, quality products and an extensive knowledge of Uruguayan wool’, says Mr Seizer.

‘Companies interested in importing greasy wool, scoured wool and wool grease from Uruguay are welcome to contact us’, says Richard Seizer. wool@ rantex.com.uy

Leading and Reliable Exporter of Greasy and Scoured Wool from Uruguay

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The best of Uruguayan wool The rapid increase in wool prices worldwide and a tightening of wool supply has seen Uruguayan wool in greater demand from wool processors around the world.

W

ool production in Uruguay has been stable and the weather conditions favourable for good quality wool.

Uruguayan wool is generally available in a wide product range from 15 micron super fine wools to 30 micron and coarser wools. ‘The industry has excellent animal health and welfare conditions that guarantee excellent quality wool with a variety of types for a variety of applications’ says Malcolm Morton, Director at Thomas Morton SA. Thomas Morton S.A. is a family company trading in greasy and scoured wool from Uruguay. ‘We do export greasy and scoured wool worldwide, but China is a main destination for our greasy wool and Europe takes the bulk of our scoured wools’, says Mr Morton.

The company can also supply wools from Peru, Brazil and Argentina and has regular contact with practically all wool consuming countries.

‘We can supply our customers with all types of Uruguayan wool as well as wool from other South American

countries. We control all stages of wool for sorting that is brought to us from farms or from wool brokers. This ensures that quality control is assured and we can deliver to our clients the wool they specify. Good wool and strong connections with farmers in Uruguay and neighbouring countries has been the hallmark of our wool export business’.

Malcolm Morton

‘We personally value each lot. We have an understanding and knowledge about the wool we buy and sell that only an uninterrupted chain of involvement and long experience can bring’.

All wools can be tested by Laboratorio Tecnologico del Uruguay (LATU) an accredited and internationally recognised testing house.

‘We welcome enquiries from companies looking to buy the very good style wools we can offer. Our policy is to offer flexibility in order to fulfil orders from all buyers at all times’, concluded Mr Morton.

For more information about this company please contact Thomas Morton SA at tmorton@adinet.com.uy Tel. 598 2 924 4158

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From farm shed to your mill Export volumes have increased in recent years for Estancias Puppo - one of the largest wool growing farms in Uruguay. According to D’jalma Puppo, managing director, this increase is due to customers recognising and valuing their ability to supply good quality wool, to exacting customer specification.

E

stancias Puppo only sells wool that is in stock and the shipment of this wool to customers is usually arranged within a week.

‘We are very particular about contracts. If a customer order specification is for 21 microns super choice fleece, then this is what he will get’, says D´jalma Puppo. ‘Our customers are dealing with the person who grows the wool. We manage the traceability of each wool lot.’

According to Mr Puppo buying direct from the wool grower has many advantages. ‘Our existing customers appreciate that the wool they receive comes directly from our farms located in one of the best growing wool regions of Uruguay.

There is no intermediary. We control the process from farm animal to export product. Our consistent work at the farm, to improve wool quality, begins with shearing and sorting, to ensure that no contamination or dark fibre is present in packed orders. Mulesing is not practised in Uruguay’.

Main export markets include China, India and Europe in greasy wool from 20 – 24.5 microns, with VM at 0.1% and average Schlumberger dry yield of 80%, with no coloured or dark fibres, and no contaminants of any kind.

Estancias Puppo can achieve larger volumes of wool by collecting and sorting wool from other farms that adopt its same strict quality processes. “Because we are producers ourselves, we know the other producers from whom we buy directly in order to fulfil larger orders and participate in the international market in larger volumes, thus achieving more competitive prices” says Mr Puppo, who also emphasizes that he is happy to deal with customers both big and small.

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The company can also supply Chilean wool, Argentine wool, and wool from other South American countries.

‘Our knowledge and direct communication with other farmers ensure that we can guarantee that there is no blending of different categories. We do not blend, and the producers we buy from do not blend either, our priority is offering quality’, says Mr. Puppo. ‘We manage each phase of wool production. Every step of the process is monitored, from sheep grazing and nutrition to genetic programming. We carefully select female hoggets and rams for mating to ensure top quality wool”.

The company has its own shearing team, trained in shearing and sorting according to the code of practice laid out by SUL, (Uruguayan Wool Secretariat). Estancias Puppo was the first company to receive the “green label” by SUL. The green label is a mark of distinction in shearing and sorting of wool. The sorted wool is classified into different fleece quality types (AAA, AA, etc) and inferior categories such as pieces, bellies, locks and crutchings are separated.

D’Jalma Puppo and Margarita Cortabarría of Estancia Puppo SA

‘We have hosted buyers from China, Europe and India and we are looking forward to welcoming other buyers who are interested in visiting our beautiful countryside and buying our fine wool”, concludes Mr. Puppo. For more information please contact Ing. Agr. Margarita Cortabarria at exportaciones@estanciaspuppo.com Tel: +598 2 7075614 www.estanciaspuppo.com

Uruguayan wool exporter offers merino wool Wool buyers and wool processors around the globe are quite familiar with Uruguayan wool. It is well known and valued for its good staple length, low vegetable matter content, no chemical contamination and low coloured fibre content and will continue to be in demand in the future.

‘We have been working with companies

near to near Montevideo where all wool

with his son Ignacio and daughter

in Europe, and in particular in India

types are core tested by Laboratorio

Maria. It exported over 2 million kgs of

for many years and are well aware of

Tecnológico del Uruguay (LATU) prior

Uruguayan and South American wools

their requirements and specifications.

to export. ‘The wool is sorted to strict

during the last season and sources its

Our motto is “We deliver what you

client specification’, says Mr Diaz, ‘it is

wool direct from farms.

need” ’, says Carlos Diaz company

then baled, and prepared for shipping.

president at Ulana. Mr Diaz has more

The result is a faster delivery time to

‘We sell mainly greasy wool, all type of fleeces, pieces and bellies, lambs wools,

than 43 years experience working in

customers.’

the Uruguayan wool industry. ‘We are

In the last couple of years we have

cheaper types that buyers can request’,

a family business and our customers

concentrated in delivering excellent

says Ignacio Diaz.

appreciate the personal service we

merino wool in the range of 18 - 22.5

provide.

microns to customers worldwide.

The Ulana warehouse is located very

Ulana is managed by Mr Diaz together

black brown wools and blending or

‘Business has been increasing from year to year. We export 70% superfine merino - between 17.5 - 24.5 microns Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013 | 175

URUGUAY

helped result in improved colour, length, strength and clean quality wool.

Carlos, Ignacio and Maria Diaz

and 30% crossbred wools. The wool has been of good quality in part due to the introduction of genetics’, says Ignacio Diaz. There has been strong evidence that

176 | Wool TRADE INTERNATIONAL 2013

the work undertaken in genetics in Uruguayan wool breeds has been good, particularly in regard to merino. Good sanitary condition for animals has also

‘When wool buyers need the right wool they should contact us. We have the ability to source the right wool from all over Uruguay and we can do that at a very competitive rate. We can also advise wool companies that have not used Uruguayan wool before in how to incorporate Uruguayan wool into the mix of wools they buy, comments Ignacio Diaz.

Please contact Carlos Diaz or Ignacio Diaz at ulana@ulana.com.uy

remer B

Wollhandelskontor GmbH