Knit 2 Socks in 1 THE EASIEST METHOD EVER FOR KNITTING TWO SOCKS AT ONCE
Safiyyah Talley
Photographs by
Kendra Lynece
20
ORIGINAL PATTERNS
Knit Two Socks in One The Easiest Method Ever for Knitting Two Socks at Once
Safiyyah Talley
Photographs by
Kendra Lynece
ß
Storey Publishing
Contents
1 Choose Your Story 00
Foreword 0 Introduction: Why Two Socks in One? 00
Yarn 00 Fiber 00 Yarn Weights 00 Needles 00 Working in the Round 00 Double-Pointed Needles 00 Circular Needles 00 Flexible Double-Pointed Needles 00 Magic Loop 00 Two Circular Needles 00 Notions 00 Scrap Yarn 00 Tapestry Needle 00 Scissors 00 Stitch Markers 00 Measuring Tape 00
2
3
Choose Your Path
Decide Your Ending
00
00
Sock Anatomy 101 00
Squiggle Stripes Socks 000
Choosing a Size 00
Broken Seed Stitch Socks 000
Knitting Your First Sock 00 the Two-Socks-in-One Way 00
Lacy Rib Socks 000
The Everyday Sock 00 Sock Knitter’s Worksheet 00
Ladder Stitch Socks 000 Mosaic Rib Socks 000 A Lil’ Frill Socks 000
Additional Techniques 00 Additional Cuff Lengths 00 Cuff Stitch Options 00 Sock Variations 00
Acknowledgments 000 Appendix 000 Abbreviations 000
2
Choose Your Path THE TIME HAS FINALLY COME TO SELECT YOUR PATH for your two socks in
one adventure. In this chapter, you will learn about sock anatomy, and all of the “knitty” gritty details for knitting two socks in one.
Sock Anatomy 101 Welcome to Sock Anatomy 101. Today, we will be dissecting a traditional sock and comparing it to a two-socks-in-one sock. Class is now in session!
Anatomy of a Traditional Sock Cuff. The cuff should be tight so that the sock stays up with wear. 1{x}1 ribbing makes a well-fitted cuff, while garter stitch and stockinette stitch cuffs have a relaxed fit. Leg. The leg of the sock extends from the heel to the cuff. This is a popular spot for adding knitting motifs because there are no increases or decreases being worked. Also, you do not have to worry about the motifs being uncomfortable on your feet while you walk. Lastly, some motifs can affect the elasticity of the knitting. For example, slipped stitches are less elastic than stockinette stitches. It may be helpful to use special stitch motifs only on the leg, or to use them very sparingly on the foot, so that your motif doesn’t affect the overall fit of the sock.
Cuff
Leg
Instep Heel
Toe
Foot
Heel. From a Fleegle heel to a short-row heel, there are many techniques to choose from to create the sock’s heel. A Fleegle heel is shaped using increases at the instep and no-wrap short rows. A short-row heel is the most common technique and can also be the most daunting because it is easy for new knitters to become lost in the knitting. The short-row heel uses short rows to add extra fabric at the heel. Instep. The instep is the underside of the foot. Usually, this part of the sock is worked in stockinette or reverse stockinette (also known as the princess sole; see page ((00))). Some knitters place increases here to allow for extra room around the ankle.
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KN IT TWO SOCKS I N ONE
Foot. The foot of the sock is the most crucial area for sizing, which is why most sock measurements are based upon foot circumference. Toe. In sock knitting, decreases are used to form a point for the toe area.
Anatomy of a Two-Socks-In-One Sock Two Socks in One is knitted two at a time by simply knitting one long sock. You then separate the sock into two socks with the use of strategically placed lifelines (see page ((00))). Then you add a toe to one sock and a cuff to the other sock. Finally, you will finish the socks off with heels and weave in the ends. Two Socks in One simplifies sock anatomy by using the same techniques for the heel and toes and forgoes the need for instep increases.
Cuff 1 (This is where you start!) Leg 1
Leg 2 Heel 2 Foot 1 Toe 2 (This is where you end!)
Foot 2
Cuff. The cuff is the same as a traditional knitted sock and can be customized to fit the knitter’s personal style and needs. Leg. The leg length can be customized for ankle-, crew-, or calflength socks.
Heel. The heel is a simple triangular shape that is worked in the round and added after the sock is knit. It is exactly the same as the toe. This heel is roomy enough so instep increases are not needed. Foot. The foot is the same circumference as the leg. The size chart allows for wiggle room in the foot, which discounts the need for instep increases. Toe. The toe is knit in the same exact way as the heel and is designed to have extra wiggle room for comfort!
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9
Choosing a Size When I first started knitting socks, my biggest dilemma was finding the right size. Some knitters, in pursuit of the perfect fit, even ask their future sock recipients to create a cardboard cutout of their foot. For me, life’s too short to outline a foot. So, I’ve included a size chart that is unique to the Two Socks in One method and follows all of the industry sizing standards for footwear. When picking a size, start with your shoe size. If you are in between shoe sizes, think about how you like to wear your socks. If you like a tighter sock, size down, and for a loser sock, size up.
SIZE CHART
In Between Some sock knitters include what is known as a heel flap. This is a type of heel that utilizes a rectangular flap placed on the back of the sock, in between the heel and the leg. It is knit flat, usually in a slip stitch pattern called “eye of partridge,” which adds thickness and durability to the sock.
The two socks in one method uses this chart to break down the sock’s anatomy into easy-to-measure parts. This allows for more ways to customize your sock, from tailored to slouchy. Feel free to experiment with sizing. CHILD US SOCK SIZE
Size
Baby
Toddler & Child
X-Small
0–4
5–13
Youth 1–6 & Women’s 4–7.5
inches
cm
inches
cm
inches
cm
Sock Circumference
5.5
14
6.5
16.5
7
17.5
Total Leg Size (with Cuff)
2.5
3.5
4.5
11.5
6.5
16.5
ADULT US SOCK SIZE
Size
10
KN IT TWO SOCKS I N ONE
Small
Medium
Large
Women’s 8–9.5 & Men’s 6–8.5
Women’s 10–12.5 & Men’s 9–11.5
Men’s 12–14
inches
cm
inches
cm
inches
cm
Sock Circumference
8
20.5
9
23
10
25.5
Total Leg Size (with Cuff)
7.5
19
8
20.5
8.5
21.5
Gaps around the Heel Upon completion of your sock, you may notice two small gaps at the base of each heel. These are usually located at the beginning and the midway point of the first heel round. There are two methods to fix these gaps. The easiest is to sew the gap close when you weave in the yarn ends.
If you’ve ever been to a craft or fiber convention, you’ve probably seen a few vendors who specialize in machine-knitted socks. Surprisingly, these are knitted without instep increases because it is difficult to work increases in a sock machine. Instead, these vendors allot for extra space in the sock to make up for the lack of instep. We use this same method when knitting Two Socks in One.
To Instep or Not to Instep?
Another method is to pick up an extra stitch at the beginning and the midpoint of the round, for a total of 2 extra stitches. When you reach each of these extra stitches in the following round, work it as a knit 2 together (k2tog) with the following stitch. The gap will be closed and you will be at your original stitch count.
Look at your foot’s anatomy: it widens in the middle and narrows in the back, where the foot meets the ankle. Because socks need to fit snuggly around the whole foot, in theory it seems like adding extra fabric at the widest part would be the perfect solution.
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And there are some people with unique insteps that may benefit from that extra fabric. But I’m just gonna say it: I do not like adding instep increases to my socks. A great alternative way to create a roomy instep without adding increases is to adjust the sizing of the sock design. Most traditional sock patterns are designed with negative ease, which means that the circumference of the finished sock is smaller than the circumference of the foot so that the sock will hug the foot snuggly. Instead, I’ve designed my socks with zero ease, so the finished sock circumference roughly equals the foot circumference. This gives my socks a touch more wiggle room than traditional knitted socks have, and this little bit of wiggle room ensures a well- fitting instep! Also, hand-knit socks tend to relax with wash and wear. So a sock that fits a smidge too tight on the instep before you wash and wear it will almost always relax into a perfectly fitting sock.
Heels & Toes Okay, I never took anatomy in school. I was too afraid of the dissection, so I took marine biology instead. And you know what? We had to dissect every week. I’m telling you this just so you can get the picture that human anatomy is not my strongest subject. But I do know about heels and toes! Did you know that many knitters knit the toe of the sock and the heel of the sock the same exact way? This type of heel is often referred to as the “afterthought heel” because years ago legendary knitter Elizabeth Zimmerman wanted to find out if it was possible to add a heel after finishing the sock. That way, the knitter could just sit back, relax, knit a soothing tube, and worry about the heel later. And you know what? It worked! Zimmerman realized that the heel and toe areas require about the same amount of fabric because they are anatomically similar . The one problem with Zimmerman’s afterthought heel is that it requires the knitter to locate their desired heel placement and cut into their stitches without any sort of guide. This leaves room for error, a fact that I learned the hard way several years ago when I cut into the wrong stitch for an afterthought heel. With the Two Socks in One method, I removed the guesswork and room for error in the traditional afterthought heel by using lifelines (see ((direction))) and scrap yarn to knit the stitches that are going to be cut. These two adjustments make it impossible to lose any of your stitches and result in an easy and enjoyable knitting process.
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KN IT TWO SOCKS I N ONE
Lifelines A lifeline is a knitting technique in which the knitter uses a tapestry needle to run a strand of scrap yarn through stitches that are either live on the needle or already worked in the knitting. Traditionally, lifelines are used so that if the knitter makes a mistake, they can rip out the work to the lifeline without dropping stitches. This is particularly helpful when working intricate motifs such as lace or cables. In the case of Two Socks in One, you will place lifelines through live stitches (also known as stitches that are still on the needle) to preserve your heel stitches and to make separating your socks a breeze. You will use lifelines twice in the Two Socks in One method. The first time will be to secure your placement of the afterthought heel so that when the socks are separated, you can easily add in the heel. To accomplish this, you will work what I like to call a “lifeline sandwich” as follows: 1
Using a tapestry needle, run a lifeline through your live sole stitches only (this will be half of the stitches on the back of your sock).
2
Work these same sole stitches using a new piece of scrap yarn.
3
Using your original working yarn (the same one that you were knitting your sock with up to this point), knit these sole stitches once more. If you are using circular needles, you may have to slide your live stitches back onto your left needle so that they can be worked again.
4
Run a second lifeline through your live sole stitches.
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What’s in a Name? Some knitters refer to an afterthought heel that uses scrap yarn and lifelines as a “peasant heel.” Some also call it the “forethought heel,” since a true afterthought heel is knitted without either waste yarn or lifelines. For simplicity’s sake, I use “afterthought heel” in this book because that is the most common idiom for describing the heel method in my design, even though it may not be the most historically accurate idiom!
The second time you will use lifelines in the Two Socks in One method is to separate the socks. You will work this lifeline as follows: 1
Run your scrap yarn through each live stitch.
2
Using your working yarn, knit two rounds in stockinette.
3
Run a final lifeline through your new live stitches. You should now have two lifeline rounds separated by one round of plain knitting.
I recommend using either white or undyed yarn for lifelines to avoid unwanted color bleeding onto your knitting. My favorite yarn to use for lifelines is worsted weight cotton because it is inexpensive and does not bleed or stick to your knitting. If you use wool yarn as a lifeline for a wool project, you run the risk of your lifeline meshing with your stitches, which makes it difficult to remove the lifeline later.
Knitting Your First Sock the Two Socks in One Way Now that you’ve learned about yarn and needles and sizing, you are ready to knit your first pair of socks the Two Socks in One way. If you already flipped through this book, you may notice that the patterns are pretty compact. This is because each sock uses the following Everyday Sock Pattern for all of the measurements and stitch counts.
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KN IT TWO SOCKS I N ONE
The Everyday Sock The everyday sock is the perfect sock to begin with, as it is mostly knit in stockinette. I recommend working this sock in a larger gauge (2–4 stitches per inch) so that you can become comfortable with the method.
SOCK STATS • Yarn Lion Brand WoolEase Thick and Quick, 79% acrylic/20% wool/1% other, 92 yards (140g), 2 skeins of Starlight (640-308) • Needle Size US 13 (9 mm) • Gauge 2 sts {=} 1{in} • Size Shown Small • Cuff Standard, 1{x}1 ribbing • Leg Crew
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INSTRUCTIONS STEP 1: CUFF 1 Using your preferred method, cast on the following number of stitches for the cuff:
step 1 CAST ON FOR CUFF
Baby
Toddler & Child
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
GAUGE (sts per inch)
(0–4)
(5–13)
(Youth 1–6 & Women’s 4–7.5)
(Women’s 8–9.5 & Men’s 6–8)
(Women’s 10–12.5 & Men’s 9–11.5)
(Men’s 12–14)
2
10
12
14
16
18
20
3
16
20
22
24
28
30
4
22
26
28
32
36
40
5
28
32
36
40
46
50
6
34
40
42
48
54
60
7
38
46
50
56
64
70
8
44
52
56
64
72
80
Work in 1{x}1 ribbing by working the following round:
Repeat round 1 until the cuff measures the following length:
Round 1: *Knit 1, purl 1; repeat from * to the end of the round. STANDARD CUFF LENGTH
16
Baby
Toddler & Child
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
(0–4)
(5–13)
(Youth 1–6 & Women’s 4–7.5)
(Women’s 8–9.5 & Men’s 6–8)
(Women’s 10–12.5 & Men’s 9–11.5)
(Men’s 12–14)
in
cm
in
cm
in
cm
in
cm
in
cm
in
cm
1
2.5
1.5
4
1.5
4
1.5
4
1.5
4
1.5
4
KN IT TWO SOCKS I N ONE
STEP 2: LEG 1 AND HEEL LIFELINE 1 Work in stockinette for the following length (excluding the cuff):
step 2 STANDARD LEG LENGTH
Baby
Toddler & Child
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
(0–4)
(5–13)
(Youth 1–6 & Women’s 4–7.5)
(Women’s 8–9.5 & Men’s 6–8)
(Women’s 10–12.5 & Men’s 9–11.5)
(Men’s 12–14)
in
cm
in
cm
in
cm
in
cm
in
cm
in
cm
1.5
1
3
7.5
5
12.5
6
15
6.5
16.5
7
17.5
Heel Lifeline 1: Use a piece of scrap yarn to run a lifeline (see page ((00)) through
the following number of stitches:
HEEL LIFELINE STITCHES
Baby
Toddler & Child
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
GAUGE (sts per inch)
(0–4)
(5–13)
(Youth 1–6 & Women’s 4–7.5)
(Women’s 8–9.5 & Men’s 6–8)
(Women’s 10–12.5 & Men’s 9–11.5)
(Men’s 12–14)
2
5
6
7
8
9
10
3
8
10
11
12
14
15
4
11
13
14
16
18
20
5
14
16
18
20
23
25
6
17
20
21
24
27
30
7
19
23
25
28
32
35
8
22
26
28
32
36
40
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Use a second piece of scrap yarn to knit into these same stitches, allowing the tail of your working yarn to hang once all of your stitches are worked. Next, place the stitches worked with the second scrap yarn onto your working needle and knit into them once more using your original working yarn. With scrap yarn, run a new
lifeline through the stitches you just knit with your original working yarn. You should have a lifeline going through half of your live stitches, then a row with those same stitches worked in scrap yarn, and finally, a row knit in your original yarn with a lifeline going through it.
step 3 STEP 3: FOOT 1 AND SEPARATION LIFELINES
Separation Lifelines Rounds 1 and 3: Work in stockinette. Place a lifeline through every stitch in the round.
For foot 1, work in stockinette for the following length (start measuring at the last worked lifeline):
Round 2: Work in stockinette.
FOOT LENGTH
Baby
Toddler & Child
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
(5–13)
(Youth 1–6 & Women’s 4–7.5)
(Women’s 8–9.5 & Men’s 6–8)
(Women’s 10–12.5 & Men’s 9–11.5)
(Men’s 12–14)
(0–4)
18
in
cm
in
cm
in
cm
in
cm
in
cm
in
cm
1.5
7.75
3
10
5
13
6
15.5
7
18
8
20
KN IT TWO SOCKS I N ONE
STEP 4: LEG 2, HEEL LIFELINE 2, AND FOOT 2 Measuring from round 3 of the Separation Lifeline in step 3, work a second leg the same length as the first leg. Heel Lifeline 2: Use a piece of scrap yarn to run a lifeline (see page ((00)) through the following number of stitches:
step 4 HEEL LIFELINE STITCHES
Baby
Toddler & Child
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
(Women’s 8–9.5 & Men’s 6–8)
(Women’s 10–12.5 & Men’s 9–11.5)
(Men’s 12–14)
GAUGE (sts per inch)
(0–4)
(5–13)
(Youth 1–6 & Women’s 4–7.5)
2
5
6
7
8
9
10
3
8
10
11
12
14
15
4
11
13
14
16
18
20
5
14
16
18
20
23
25
6
17
20
21
24
27
30
7
19
23
25
28
32
35
8
22
26
28
32
36
40
Use a second piece of scrap yarn to knit into these same stitches, allowing the tail of your working yarn to hang once all of your stitches are worked. Next, place the stitches worked with the second scrap yarn onto your working needle and knit into them once more using your original working yarn. With scrap yarn, run a new lifeline through the stitches you just knit with your original working yarn.
You should have a lifeline going through half of your live stitches, then a row with those same stitches worked in scrap yarn, and finally, a row knit in your original yarn with a lifeline going through it. Measuring from the last worked lifeline, work a second foot the same length as the first foot.
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STEP 5: TOE Work the following number of rounds in stockinette:
step 5 Baby
Toddler & Child
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
(Women’s 8–9.5 & Men’s 6–8)
(Women’s 10–12.5 & Men’s 9–11.5)
(Men’s 12–14)
GAUGE (sts per inch)
(0–4)
(5–13)
(Youth 1–6 & Women’s 4–7.5)
2
4
4
4
4
4
4
3
2
2
2
2
2
2
4
2
2
2
2
2
2
5
2
2
2
2
2
2
6
2
2
2
2
2
2
7
2
2
2
2
2
2
8
2
2
2
2
2
2
For Magic Loop/Double Pointed needles/two circular needles only Place half the stitches on one needle and the other half of the stitches on the second needle. The needle facing you is now needle 1, and the back needle is needle 2. You will continue to work in the round as you work the following two-round repeat:
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KN IT TWO SOCKS I N ONE
Round 1: Needle 1: Knit 1, ssk, knit to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, knit 1. Needle 2: Knit 1, ssk, knit to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, knit 1. Round 2: Needle 1 & 2: Knit Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until you have the following number of stitches left on the needle:
FINAL STITCH COUNT
Baby
Toddler & Child
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
(Women’s 8–9.5 & Men’s 6–8)
(Women’s 10–12.5 & Men’s 9–11.5)
(Men’s 12–14)
GAUGE (sts per inch)
(0–4)
(5–13)
(Youth 1–6 & Women’s 4–7.5)
2
5
4
5
4
5
4
3
4
4
5
4
4
5
4
5
5
4
4
4
4
5
4
4
4
4
5
5
6
5
4
5
4
5
4
7
5
5
5
4
4
5
8
4
4
4
4
4
4
For 9-inch circular only
Round 2: Knit.
Find the center of your round and place a stitch marker. For example, I had 40 stitches and placed my stitch marker after the 20th stitch.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until you have the following number of stitches left on the needle. As your stitches decrease, you may have to use two circular needles, switch to DPNs, or use Magic Loop.
Round 1: *Knit 1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before marker, k2tog, knit 1, sm; repeat from * to end of the round.
FINAL STITCH COUNT
Baby
Toddler & Child
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
GAUGE (sts per inch)
(0–4)
(5–13)
(Youth 1–6 & Women’s 4–7.5)
(Women’s 8–9.5 & Men’s 6–8)
(Women’s 10–12.5 & Men’s 9–11.5)
(Men’s 12–14)
2
5
4
5
4
5
4
3
4
4
5
4
4
5
4
5
5
4
4
4
4
5
4
4
4
4
5
5
6
5
4
5
4
5
4
7
5
5
5
4
4
5
8
4
4
4
4
4
4
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For all needles Cut the working yarn, leaving a 12{in} tail. Using a tapestry needle, pull the working yarn through all live stitches, slipping them off the needles as you go. Pull the tail tight and weave in the end. STEP 6: SEPARATING AND FINISHING THE SOCKS Locate the row of knitting that is in between your separation lifelines. Snip one leg of a stitch in the row, being sure to pick a stitch that is far away from the beginning of the round. Carefully pick apart this round of stitches until you have two nearly completed socks! You will notice that one sock will need a cuff and the other will need a toe. To knit these stitches, simply slip the live stitches for sock 2 onto your working needles and pull out the lifeline. Knit the cuff for sock 2 in the same way you knit the cuff for sock 1 in step 1, finishing it off with the sewn bind off (see ((direction))). When you have finished the cuff for sock 2, slip the live stitches for sock 1 onto your working needles. Follow the instructions in step 5 to knit the toe for sock 1.
step 6a
step 6b
step 6c
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KN IT TWO SOCKS I N ONE
Heels Carefully pick out the row of stitches that you knit with scrap yarn in step 2. Next, slip onto your needles the two sets of sole stitches that are held by your two heel lifelines. Once your stitches are secured onto your needles, carefully remove both lifelines. Work the heel by repeating the toe instructions from step 5.
step 6d
Finishing Weave in the ends, being sure to close any gaps. Wash and block your socks according to the instructions on the ball band.
step 6e
step 6f
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Sewn Bind Off Remove the stitch marker and cut the working yarn, leaving a tail about three times as long as the length of your live stitches. Work a sewn bind off as follows: Thread the tapestry needle through tail. Step 1: Insert the needle through the first 2 stitches purlwise and pull the tail all the way through.
step 1
Step 2: Insert the needle through the first stitch knitwise and pull the tail all the way through. Step 3: Slip the first stitch off the needle; 1 stitch is bound off. Repeat steps 1–3 steps until 1 stitch remains. Slip the stitch off the needle and weave in the tail.
step 2
Wanna Try the Everyday Sock Pattern Quickly? Make the baby size. They whip up quickly and are perfect for a last-minute gift or a donation to your local NICU. step 3 24
KN IT TWO SOCKS I N ONE
Sock Knitter’s Worksheet You can use this customizable template to document your sock knitting. Refer to the size chart on page ((00)), the Everyday Sock Pattern, and (if desired) the style of your choice from chapter 3 to fill in the blanks.
SOCK INFORMATION
Yarn Weight: Needle Size: Yards/meters used: Sock Size: Sock Recipient: PATTERN NOTES
Pattern Name: Cast on Number: Leg Length: Number of Held Heel Stitches: Foot Length: FINISHING THE HEELS AND TOES
Toe/Heel Instructions: Rounds before Decreases: Number of Decreases: Final Stitch Count:
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3
Decide Your Ending IN THIS CHAPTER, YOU WILL FIND SIX VARIATIONS OF THE Two Socks in One
method. Each variation is completely customizable and works for any foot size and stitch count. You may wish to refer to the Sock Knitter’s Worksheet (see page ((00))), to record your pattern notes.
BROKEN SEED STITCH Red’s Cottage A Long Slumber Bed Socks A Walk in the Woods
28
SQUIGGLE STRIPES
LACY RIB SOCKS
A Good Book Bed Socks Shavasanah Yoga Socks Once Upon a Time Booties
Flower Buds Ankle Maypole Lace Snow Queen Lace
KN IT TWO SOCKS I N ONE
LADDER STITCH SOCKS Royal Coronation Baby Booties Rapunzel’s Ladder Secret Stairwell
MOSAIC RIB SOCKS
A LIL’ FRILL SOCKS
Kingsmen Peddler’s The Littlest Prince(ss)
Frilly Booties A Secret Proposal Make Believe
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SQUIGGLE STRIPES SOCKS The squiggle stripe pattern is perfect for beginner sock knitters. Using a garter stitch ridge in a contrasting color adds interest and texture, while maintaining simplicity in both the style and the knitting process.
Squiggle Stripes Leg Motif Rounds 1–4 Using MC, knit to end of round. Round 5 Using CC, B, knit to end of round. Round 6 Using CC, purl to end of round. Repeat rounds 1–6.
Squiggle Stripes Foot Motif Rounds 1–4 Using MC, knit to end of round. Round 5 Using CC, knit to end of round. Round 6 Using CC, knit half of your live stitches, purl to end of round. Repeat rounds 1–6.
Lacy Motifs and Little Toes You may notice that none of the featured baby socks and booties in this book uses all-over lace on the foot. This is to ensure that little toes do not snag on yarnovers when the socks or booties are being pulled on or worn.
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KN IT TWO SOCKS I N ONE
DECIDE YOUR ENDING
31
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A Good Book Bed Socks The leg of this sock is worked in the Squiggle Stripes Leg Motif and the foot is worked in the Squiggle Stripes Foot Motif. The toes, heels, and cuffs are all worked in the contrasting color.
SOCK STATS
INSTRUCTIONS
• Yarn 1 Nutmeg Fibers Hearth, 100% U.S. merino wool, 150 yds (100g), 1 skein Light Lilac (MC)
STEP 1: CUFF 1
• Yarn 2 Nutmeg Fibers Cottage, 100% U.S. merino wool, 180 yds (100g), 1 skein Twilight (CC)
Cast on the correct number of cuff stitches for your size, based on ((Chart Title)) on page ((00)). Using CC, work in garter stitch (see page ((00))) until you reach the standard cuff measurement for your size, based on ((Chart Title)) on page ((00)).
• Needle Size US 8 (5 mm)
STEP 2: LEG 1 AND HEEL LIFELINE 1
• Gauge 4 sts {=} 1{in} in stockinette • Size Shown Small
Work leg in Squiggle Stripes Leg Motif until the leg (excluding the cuff) measures the correct length for your size, based on ((Chart Title)) on page ((00)).
• Cuff Standard, garter stitch
Work Heel Lifeline 1 as described on page ((00)).
• Leg Long
STEP 3: FOOT 1 AND SEPARATION LIFELINES Work foot 1 in Squiggle Stripes Foot Motif until the foot measures the correct length for your size, based on ((Chart Title)) on page ((00)). (Start the measurement at the last worked lifeline.) Work Separation Lifelines as described on page ((00)).
DECIDE YOUR ENDING
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STEP 4: LEG 2, HEEL LIFELINE 2, AND FOOT 2
STEP 6: SEPARATING AND FINISHING THE SOCKS
Measuring from round 3 of the Separation Lifeline in step 3, work a second leg in Squiggle Stripes Leg Motif the same length as the first leg.
Follow the instructions on page ((00)) for separating your tube of knitting into two nearly completed socks. Using CC, knit the cuff for sock 2 and the toe for sock 1 following the instructions on pages ((00)) and ((00)), respectively.
Repeat the complete Heel Lifeline 1 instructions from step 2. Measuring from the last worked lifeline, work a second foot in Squiggle Stripes Foot Motif the same length as the first foot. STEP 5: TOE Using CC, work the correct number of rounds in stockinette for your size, based on ((Chart Title)) on page ((00)). Work the toe decreases according to what kind of needles you’re using, as described on page ((00)) (for Magic Loop, DPNs, or two circular needles) and on page ((00)) (for 9{in} circular needles) until you reach the correct number of final stitches for your size, based on ((Chart Title)) on page ((00)). Cut the working yarn, leaving a 12{in} tail. Using a tapestry needle, pull the working yarn through all live stitches, slipping them off the needles as you go. Pull the tail tight and weave in the end.
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KN IT TWO SOCKS I N ONE
Bind off using the method of your choice. In CC, add a heel to each sock using the instructions on page ((00)). Weave in the ends, then wash and block your socks.
DECIDE YOUR ENDING
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Shavasanah Yoga Socks This version is knitted using self-striping yarn. Rounds 5 and 6 of the Squiggle Stripes motifs are worked at every color change (work the leg motif version if you are knitting a leg, and use the foot motif version if you are knitting a foot). This yoga/dance sock was created by replacing the heels and toes with half an inch of 1{x}1 ribbing before casting off.
SOCK STATS • Yarn Darn Good Yarn Alanya Sock Yarn, 75% merino wool/25% nylon, 130 yards (30g), 2 skeins Northern Lights • Needle Size US 2 (2.75 mm) • Gauge 7 sts {=} 1{in} in stockinette • Size Shown X-small • Cuff Standard, 1{x}1 ribbing • Leg Long
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KN IT TWO SOCKS I N ONE
INSTRUCTIONS STEP 1: CUFF 1 Cast on the correct number of cuff stitches for your size, based on ((Chart Title)) on page ((00)). Work in 1{x}1 ribbing until you reach the standard cuff measurement for your size, based on ((Chart Title)) on page ((00)). STEP 2: LEG 1 AND HEEL LIFELINE 1 Work leg in Squiggle Stripes Leg Motif until the leg (excluding the cuff) measures the correct length for your size for calf length socks, based on ((Chart Title)) on page ((00)). Work Heel Lifeline 1 as described on page ((00)). STEP 3: FOOT 1 AND SEPARATION LIFELINES Work foot 1 in Squiggle Stripes Foot Motif until the foot measures the correct length for your size, based on ((Chart Title)) on page ((00)). (Start the measurement at the last worked lifeline.)
Measuring from the last worked lifeline, work a second foot in Squiggle Stripes Foot Motif the same length as the first foot. STEP 5: TOE Work in 1{x}1 ribbing for {½}{in}. Bind off using the Stretchy Bind Off (see page ((00))). STEP 6: SEPARATING AND FINISHING THE SOCKS Follow the instructions on page ((00)) for separating your tube of knitting into two nearly completed socks. Knit the cuff for sock 2 and the toe for sock 1 following the instructions on pages ((00)) and ((00)), respectively. Bind off using the method of your choice. Work the heel the same way you worked the toe by knitting in 1{x}1 ribbing for {½} {in} and using the Stretchy Bind Off. Weave in the ends, then wash and block your socks.
Work Separation Lifelines as described on page ((00)). STEP 4: LEG 2, HEEL LIFELINE 2, AND FOOT 2 Measuring from round 3 of the Separation Lifeline in step 3, work a second leg in Squiggle Stripes Leg Motif the same length as the first leg. Repeat the complete Heel Lifeline 1 instructions from step 2.
DECIDE YOUR ENDING
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Once Upon a Time Booties This adorable baby bootie is knit entirely in the Squiggle Stripes Leg Motif.
SOCK STATS
INSTRUCTIONS
• Yarn Caron x Pantone Yarn, 60% acrylic/20% merino wool/20% nylon, 127 yards (100g), 1 skein Faerie Cakes
STEP 1: CUFF 1
• Needle Size US 5 (3.75 mm) • Gauge 4 sts {=} 1{in} in stockinette • Size Shown Baby • Cuff Standard, garter stitch • Leg Crew
Cast on the correct number of cuff stitches for your size, based on ((Chart Title)) on page ((00)). Work in garter stitch (page ((00))) until you reach the standard cuff measurement for your size, based on ((Chart Title)) on page ((00)). STEP 2: LEG 1 AND HEEL LIFELINE 1 Work leg in Squiggle Stripes Leg Motif until the leg (excluding the cuff) measures the correct length for your size, based on ((Chart Title)) on page ((00)). Work Heel Lifeline 1 as described on page ((00)). STEP 3: FOOT 1 AND SEPARATION LIFELINES Work foot 1 in Squiggle Stripes Foot Motif until the foot measures the correct length for your size, based on ((Chart Title)) on page ((00)). (Start the measurement at the last worked lifeline.) Work Separation Lifelines as described on page ((00)). STEP 4: LEG 2, HEEL LIFELINE 2, AND FOOT 2 Measuring from round 3 of the Separation Lifeline in step 3, work a second leg in Squiggle Stripes Leg Motif the same length as the first leg. Repeat the complete Heel Lifeline 1 instructions from step 2.
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KN IT TWO SOCKS I N ONE
DECIDE YOUR ENDING
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Measuring from the last worked lifeline, work a second foot in Squiggle Stripes Foot Motif the same length as the first foot. STEP 5: TOE Work the correct number of rounds in stockinette for your size, based on ((Chart Title)) on page ((00)). Work the toe decreases according to what kind of needles you’re using, as described on page ((00)) (for Magic Loop, DPNs, or two circular needles) and on page ((00)) (for 9{in} circular needles) until you reach the correct number of final stitches for your size, based on ((Chart Title)) on page ((00)). Cut the working yarn, leaving a 12{in} tail. Using a tapestry needle, pull the working yarn through all live stitches, slipping them off the needles as you go. Pull the tail tight and weave in the end.
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KN IT TWO SOCKS I N ONE
STEP 6: SEPARATING AND FINISHING THE SOCKS Follow the instructions on page ((00)) for separating your tube of knitting into two nearly completed socks. Knit the cuff for sock 2 and the toe for sock 1 following the instructions on pages ((00)) and ((00)), respectively. Bind off using the method of your choice. Add a heel to each sock using the instructions on page ((00)). Weave in the ends, then wash and block your socks.