Worcester Magazine September 3 - 9, 2020 by Worcester Magazine

SEPTEMBER 3 - 9, 2020 WORCESTERMAGAZINE.COM

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Defying the odds

The challenges of opening a restaurant during the pandemic

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S E P T E M B E R 3 - 9, 2020

IN THIS ISSUE

S E P T E M B E R 3 - 9, 2020 • V O L U M E 46 I S S U E 2 Find us on Facebook.com/worcestermag Twitter @worcestermag Instagram: Worcestermag

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Cover Story ...............................................................................11 Artist Spotlight .......................................................................15 Lifestyle......................................................................................16

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the cover Defying the odds; The challenges of opening a restaurant during the pandemic Story on page 10

Owner of Stave & Still, Jessica Valby pours a blackberry bourbon lemonade Photo by Christine Peterson ; Design by Kimberly Vasseur

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At Broad Meadow Brook, the shutdown is for the birds VEER MUDAMBI

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S E P T E M B E R 3 - 9, 2020

hen people think of the lockdown, crowds are not what come to mind, but that was exactly the case at Broad Meadow Brook Conservation Center and Wildlife Sanctuary back in March. With schools and workplaces closed, Worcester residents turned to the great outdoors as a way to dodge the virus — and boredom. Bird-watching, in particular, became a popular activity during the pandemic. Mainly due to its ubiquitous nature, seeing as how one can quite literally participate from anywhere: a park, a parking lot, your window, the woods and even urban spaces. Broad Meadow Brook in Worcester is the largest urban wildlife sanctuary in New England. Run by the Mass Audubon Society, it has more than 400 acres, about 80 species of butterflies, 164 bird species and more than 700 plant species, which can be all viewed from trails leading through woods, fields, streams and marsh. “We saw an amazing increase in visitation here,” said Martha Gach, education manager and conservation coordinator, “The parking lot was packed, the trails were packed.” It was a genuine craving for an engagement with nature given the limitations of the state guidelines. However, for the first month, most of the wildlife made themselves scarce in the face of this heightened activity. Spring is usually a favored time for bird-watching but this year, it appeared to be chart busting. Unfortunately, so much foot traffic, which would have been more than welcome any other time, did not align with social distancing guidelines, and the trails were shut down from mid-April to the end of May. That period coincided with the highpoint of bird nesting season, and the wildlife, especially birds, took advantage of having the woods to themselves for once. “I think they were very appreciative,” chuckled Gach. She even saw a red-shouldered hawk nesting only 10 feet from the trail. “I don’t think they would have done that if there were more people around.” Slightly smaller than the red-tailed hawk, red-shouldered hawks are a

Martha Gach is the Conservation Coordinator at Broad Meadow Brook Conservation Center and Wildlife Sanctuary. RICK CINCLAIR

southern species more commonly seen in the mid-Atlantic regions that have been slowly moving north. While they have been seen regularly in the sanctuary over the past three years, a nest was not confirmed until this year. So is the increased avian activity a direct result of decreased human activity like fewer cars, planes and trains? The anecdotal evidence certainly supports that. The lockdowns roughly corresponded with the spring migrations of many species, which is the best time for new birders to look upward and get hooked on the hobby.

However, Gach is not so sure, “the pandemic kept people close to home and they paid more attention to nature in their own neighborhoods,” including Gach herself. Though she did see more birds in her area, it was unclear “whether it was because I was there more often or they were more active.” While closing the trails may have given the birds a much needed break, staff at Mass Audubon went through a period of furloughs resulting in significantly reduced staffing. This in turn meant less trail maintenance — putting up necessary signs to make trails one way for social distancing,

picking up discarded masks, removing fallen branches, etc. — at a time when visitor levels began to pick back up in June and July. As the state begins to open up, sanctuaries, like Broad Meadow, are dealing with a kind of misalignment — staff decreases at the same time as visitor increases. Ironically, even the visitor center is still closed — the required plexiglass for the cashier is in short supply these days. Gach is clear-eyed about the challenges faced by an urban sanctuary, that making the woods a welcoming place for visitors is a demanding task. “We understand there are

people who will come to visit who are not comfortable being out in the woods so we make sure the trails are cut back and stay on top of trees that fall across the path.” Doing it with a vastly reduced staff is even tougher. In addition to staff furloughs, the loss of income from shutting down educational programs will also have future repercussions, but donations from both individuals and foundations have helped Broad Meadow avoid the worst of it. “One of the very encouraging things that’s happening is the sanctuaries are becoming more linked,” she said. “Educators are talking more to each other so we have an

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understanding of shared goals.” Overall though, the public’s renewed interest in the natural world can only be a good thing, as far as the staff at Broad Meadow are concerned. Community engagement appears to be on the upswing, state guidelines notwithstanding. Gach reported that “we’re seeing people we haven’t seen before,” including markedly more young people between 20 and 30. Hopefully this is an indicator of the next generation’s investment in local ecosystems, making them better stewards of our natural spaces. Gach, at least, is hopeful. “We’re looking at this as a real boon for increasing enthusiasm for protecting open space.” Amateur birders can help provide biologists and conservationists with information on migration patterns by using National Audubon Society’s bird identification apps — such as Merlin ID or Smart Bird ID — and sending their sightings to global databases such as eBird.

Walking trails are now oneway at Broad Meadow Brook Conservation Center and Wildlife Sanctuary. RICK CINCLAIR

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Coyote tracking app helps keep Worcester’s canine citizens safe VEER MUDAMBI

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S E P T E M B E R 3 - 9, 2020

coyote picks her way slowly through the nighttime woods and stops to sniff a tree. Joined by another, a male, who does the same thing before they both pin their ears back nervously. This is a mated pair and they have caught the scent of an unknown coyote. The male marks the spot before tossing his head back to howl. His mate joins in with yips and shorter howls to fill in the gaps. Right now, it’s only the two of them, but they must keep the area safe for when the pups are born. Coyotes have a rigid family structure; packs consist of an alpha pair and their pups, born in spring. Around seven weeks, the pups will

leave the safety of the den but only two may make it past their first year. These may disperse in the autumn but periodically return to the original pack, like college kids coming home for laundry. To the members of a human family that lives 20 yards up the hill, the pair in the woods sound like a full pack. Tomorrow, the humans may log their experience in Worcester’s online coyote tracker, stating how they heard a dozen coyotes behind their house. The option to report coyote sightings was made available Feb. 25 on Worcester’s Animal Control page. The tool is a web application that sends data in real-time back to the city’s Customer Service Center. Residents select the location and

add relevant details. After the tracker went live, the reported sightings started immediately and continue to come in on a regular basis. To date there have been 175 reports. Councilor-at-large Moe Bergman advocated the implementation of the tracker for Worcester, after hearing increasing reports of coyote activity where the animals were threatening pets and worrying people. “You don’t want to have someone lose a pet or pay thousands of dollars to keep a pet alive,” said Bergman. The idea is based on similar measures enacted in other towns. Knowledge is the best defense, according to Bergman, allowing owners to make informed decisions when walking their dogs or letting them out at night. “A lot of people have dogs, and we don’t want

to see our dogs get hurt,” he continued, being a dog owner himself. Over 40% of city residents own dogs, so there is a strong incentive to add to the database. Especially in the spring mating season, some coyotes will be more combative. Large dogs are seen as competition by male coyotes, but they won’t approach if a human is close by, though even big dogs are fair game running through the woods. The period soon after the app went live coincided with the mating season, which would explain the numerous sightings. Combined with more people at home or spending time outdoors, this increased activity raises the likelihood of tense encounters. Well suited for suburban living, coyotes need a single copse of trees to hole up while using woodland corridors for movement. The reason they are spotted everywhere is that they are everywhere, just well hidden.

A coyote hunting in the field behind the Masswildlife headquarters in Westboro in 2018. FILE PHOTO/CHRISTINE PETERSON

The Technical Services Division discussed options to achieve this goal but decided to implement the process in the city’s existing Online Customer Service Center application. It was already in use to accept citizen requests and complaints, as well as display previous requests on GIS maps. Adding an option to report a coyote sighting and view previously reported ones was a quick

plug-in, completed in just a few hours of work. Bergman credits Jake Sanders, the chief of staff in the city manager’s office, for taking the lead on the initiative. The IT department has yet to find a way to eliminate the older sightings to prevent the map from becoming overcrowded. Though such improvements would be welcome, Walter Bird, the city’s media relations specialist, said that the map meets the needs of the public and the city has no plans to update it at this time. Tracking is a far more effective tactic than killing coyotes, which can lead to more coyotes. If one or both of the alphas are killed, other coyotes may move in, dividing the territory between themselves. Thus increasing the population for the given area and making hunting almost counterproductive. Coyotes want to stay away from us as much as we want to stay away from them. The rare bite is often due to the animal becoming habituated and losing its fear of humans. This is where the tactic of hazing, a basic behavior modification, is useful. Coyotes have a comfort zone and will only let humans get approximately 25 feet before running. Walk forward, making eye contact and the coyote will run once you pass that comfort zone. If you stop at this point, the coyote will only run about 50 to 60 feet before turning around to reassess. Keep following with an aggressive posture until it keeps running. The average weight of a coyote is only 25 to 35 pounds. The tracking initiative was not without a few detractors, said Bergman. “Some people believe that any kind of tracking must be for nefarious purposes,” he said, but he is quick to point out that the city is not in favor of hurting any animal including coyotes. In fact, the aim of the tracker is to be able to peacefully “coexist rather than demonizing the animals in any way.” Incidents are thankfully uncommon and statistical probability of a coyote attack on a dog is low, but “If you save one dog,” he said, “it’s enough.”

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Zack Slik gets some help from friends on ‘I’ll Get Happy Someday’ ROBERT DUGUAY

took the time to edit the sound.” The sound quality is impressive, with “Up All Night Again” starting it here are certain musicians who can take a sound from off and capturing the tone of Slik’s banjo in excellent fashion. “Stackthe past and bring it into ing Wood” is an instrumental track the present day. Hearing that has a backwoods these types of acts PHOTO SUBMITTED country vibe to it, and perform can take the title track features the mind to a difa kazoo during the ferent time while beginning while being giving it a glimpse relatively optimistic. of what things were There’s a plethora like back then. of rhythm within Worcester’s Zack “Thought I Told You Slik has a knack for (Down The Road)” that bringing this kind of comes from the flurry vibe when he plucks of picking courtesy of his banjo and begins Slik’s impeccable skills to sing. It’s the kind on banjo. Finishing off of the EP is of vintage folk music that’s remi“Miss You,” a heartbreaking ballad. niscent of ragtime and other styles Overall, the record runs the gamut of that blossomed during the early emotions while exhibiting clear and 20th century. His latest installment poignant production. of this approach is “I’ll Get Happy Because of the pandemic, things Someday,” an EP he self-released on have been difficult for Slik as a Aug. 17. The record comes from Slik want- full-time musician, but he got a job at a local restaurant right before ing to record a bunch of material everything shut down which has while also dealing with the current helped him a ton. He also would like COVID-19 pandemic. to record some more songs if time “I have a lot of songs to record,” he allows it. says on how he got around to mak“It has been somewhat difficult ing the record. “Before COVID-19, I lately,” he says. “I’ve been a full-time was going to go into the studio with musician for the past seven years, a friend and record some of them. but I started working part time as There were some other songs rea cook at Goodstuff Smokehouse served for another band I work with, but then the virus came and I was un- in Blackstone before COVID-19 able to be with people or in a studio. I canceled all my gigs. They helped out kept thinking of some kind of project I a lot putting me in the kitchen now could record and the idea came while full time and I’ve been playing some socially distanced outdoor gigs lately, I was talking to my friend Scrimmy trying to keep as safe as I can. If the Boucher in New Hampshire, who time presents itself, I would like to records EPs for some of his bands. record some more short albums next He lit the spark that I should make year. One project I have in mind is to an EP and it was the same night that another friend, Casey Galfas, gave me record some more of my songs with a a piece of art which later became the fiddle-playing friend of mine, Jess Fox. “She has named a couple of the cover art for the album.” tunes I wrote in the last year that will Fellow Worcester musician Jon be on that release,” Slik adds. “Also, Bonner assisted by handling the there is the project to be recorded mastering duties. by Scrimmy for an EP with other It was a real community effort. “Geoffrey Oehling, who is another musicians added to the mix. I’m just unsure on when I’ll be able to start local musician, also gave me the these. We are all trying to be as safe Tascam 4 Track cassette recorder I as possible and keep each other safe. recorded these songs on,” Slik says. There are still so many more songs “Jon and I have been playing music I’ve written over the last few years I’d together for the last around five or so years in a local band called Boogie like to get out in the world.” To stream and purchase “I’ll Get Chillin’. When I let him hear the Happy Someday,” visit zackslikmusic. rough tracks he offered to master bandcamp.com. them for me, I was grateful that he

S E P T E M B E R 3 - 9, 2020 WORCESTERMAGAZINE.COM

CITY VOICES

HARVEY

LETTERS

No more pencils, no more books

JANICE HARVEY

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S E P T E M B E R 3 -9, 2020

et’s start with the positives regarding Worcester’s decision to go fully remote for returning to school during the ongoing pandemic: Teachers don’t have to spend time and cash decorating their classrooms. Kids don’t have to worry if that creepy kid on the bus will be back to torture them, and no one has to wait for the bus in the rain. Parents don’t have to spend a ton of money on back-to-school clothes and supplies for their kids. Neither do teachers. Oh, and we just might cut down on cases of COVID-19. That’s my list. If I think of anything to add before I’m done writing this column, I’ll be sure to include the sunny side of things. For now, here’s a not-so-swell thing about remote learning: Nobody likes it. That’s right. Nobody. Not the teachers, not the kids, not the parents. Not the bus drivers, the custodians, the cafeteria workers or the employers of parents trying to accommodate the fractured schedules they’re juggling. Personally, I hate it. I’ve been an educator for 30 years now, first as an instructional assistant and eventually as a teacher of English Language Arts. There is nothing more important than having kids in front of me. I can’t assess their well-being from here — here is not there. Can I ask those questions I have to ask, like “Did you have breakfast?” without insulting a parent? Fact: We ask

kids questions like that all the time. We artfully inquire about bruises. We take note if clothing needs to be laundered. We recognize pink eye, and sadness, and lack of sleep. We know the smell of weed, and alcohol. Am I dreading fumbling around online? You bet. I stink when it comes to technology. I still type with two fingers, because I took art history instead of typing at South High. I’m “old school” school, and so are many teachers in my age bracket. That said, was Worcester right to keep its students home for the first 10 weeks of school? Yes. Absolutely. My career began in a preschool classroom. I know only too well how yucky little kids can be. I also know that teens don’t like to follow rules. They buck them at every turn. Chances are slim that they would be social distancing, wearing masks and sanitizing their hands till their skin peels away. Not all of them fight authority, but it only takes one to convince others that these measures are stupid. Then what? I’m sure the biggest logistical nightmare is transportation. There aren’t enough bus monitors in the world to keep kids virus-free on school buses. I’m not known for backing administration (Hell, I’m probably in the “WPS Pain in the Arse Hall of Fame,” if they have one) but I don’t know what else could be done given the stealthy nature of a stubborn little disease that has claimed nearly 180,000 lives nationally. I don’t have a better solution to offer, quite frankly.

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Like many older teachers, I’m looking to my younger colleagues for assistance. For me learning this remote stuff is like trying to master a foreign language — after three years of French I only remember “Je m’appelle Janice” and “Au revoir,” which is pretty much what I feel like saying right now. Last spring was a trial run. We closed the doors on a Thursday in March and never opened them again, not knowing what to expect, how to get online learning up and running, or where we could score a roll of Charmin. We know a little more since then, but we’re truly a work in progress. I think I speak for most teachers when I say we’re only asking for patience and understanding from the public, as we struggle to keep your kids from falling woefully behind. Look on the bright side: MCAS testing is on hold! A cheer rose from every teacher and kid in the state over that decision. And there, ladies and germs, is the sunny-side positive fact I promised I’d add to this column. Au revoir!

Some questions to ask yourself PHILIP P. BRUNELLE

s that who you are? Does your reflection give a clue? Do you take the time to really look into your own being?

It’s all that matters. The praise and encouragement to do not of your will, but of theirs. They are such good friends. Are you satisfied at what you are doing? Does it give you peace?

Have you offended anyone in your quest? Who is your influence, does it have sense and is it fair? My wish is for you to go in peace and serve and love one another.

Philip P. Brunelle was born in North Brookfield in 1930. Was in the Navy and married, and married in 1955. He’s lived in Worcester all his life on Grafton Hill.

CITY VOICES

Celebrate Life's Important Moments

WORCESTERIA

Hope for LGBT refugees VEER MUDAMBI AND RICHARD DUCKETT

Stop in to see our selection of diamond anniversary and wedding bands!

SEEKING ASYLUM: The LGBT Asylum Task Force, based in Worcester,

has good news to celebrate and the proceeds from the fourth annual gala next month will be icing on the cake. “Envision the Future,” will be held virtually on Sept. 26 and it will include a silent auction, stories from asylum seekers and a world premiere documentary. The acquisition of a multi-unit property after a two-year search is “sort of like the sun peeking out behind a very black cloud on this planet right now,” according to Judy Hanlon, pastor of Hadwen Park Church and co-founder of the LGBT Asylum Task Force. Funds used to purchase the property were raised through private donations, grants and benefits from annual galas. While the country seems to be turning its back on society’s most vulnerable, news like this can be a much needed morale boost. The organization helps house and support those who have fled violence in other countries due to their sexual orientation or gender identity. What could be more American than providing shelter, offering a sense of community and a bit of hope. The house could replace three of five apartments that the task force is currently renting to house asylum seekers, ranging from 24 to 28 at any time. The costs are $32,000 a month to take care of expenses, and as Hanlon points out, “we’re out hustling all the time and this house means we will either be able to avoid renting three apartments or just fill it with more people if money comes in at the gala.” Created in 2008, the LGBT Asylum Task Force has helped more than 200 people from more than 20 countries. Hanlon said it was simply a question of them “being in the right place at the right time to be alive right now.” They come from everywhere, almost always alone and oftentimes with no support from a local immigrant community. “Our African immigrants can’t take part in the cultural scene in Worcester because the African immigrant community can be very homophobic,” adds Hanlon. The social isolation along with the added COVID shutdown creates a hazardous mental health situation. Asylum seekers are not permitted to work in the U.S. until they are granted a work permit and a Social Security number. The process can take more than a year since the present administration has changed the wait period from 180 days to 360 days. During that time, asylum seekers are not eligible for most forms of support. (VM)

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NEW LOOK: The Worcester Arts Council is inviting Worcester-based

creatives to apply to redesign its logo. The selected designer will receive a stipend of $1,500. In an announcement about the project, Worcester Arts Council Chairman Yasmin Goris said now is the perfect time for WAC to rebrand. “The mission of the Worcester Arts Council is to promote excellence, access, education and diversity in the arts, humanities and interpretative sciences to improve the quality of life for Worcester residents and contribute to the economic vitality of our city. And, there is so much energy pulsing through our creative community right now,” Goris said. “We are inspired by the way Worcester’s artists and creatives continue to grow and adapt to the times — there is a lot of passion, vibrance and talent here. We want the WAC brand to really reflect that back to our community.” For the logo redesign, WAC wanted an application process that would be accessible to experienced and up-and-coming creatives alike. It was also important to WAC that funds for this project go directly to the local community, so only those who live in Worcester are eligible to apply. “There are so many local creatives whose work we already admire, and we hope to get to know even more Worcester artists and designers through our logo redesign project. We are excited to see a variety of talent through our open application process — whether it’s someone who already has professional experience in logo design or someone who is just starting out,” Goris said. “First and foremost, WAC wants to work with someone who has fresh ideas and creative chops. The right person will also understand how to effectively collaborate, implement feedback, and work efficiently to deliver a great final product on time.” Those interested should apply by Sept. 30. WAC will review all applicants in October and make its final selection by November. The Council will then work with the selected designer to complete the logo redesign project by the end of December. WAC will roll out its new logo early next year. For more information and to apply, go to airtable.com/shrGTsm2xImP4gvwR/. (RD)

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COVER STORY

Opening during a pandemic Passion, perseverance and a belief in their dining concepts fuel the owners of new restaurants STEPHANIE JARVIS CAMPBELL

Dudley, began their journeys more than a year ago, in the springtime of 2019. Though both are now operational, the countdown to opening was long. Jean-Luc Wittner, owner of Suzette Crêperie & Café with his wife, Evelyn Darling, originally envisioned opening in Boston, but

found most locations to be too pricey. After hearing about the construction of Polar Park for the WooSox, they decided to explore Worcester instead. Wittner is from France and wasn’t familiar with the city, but his wife was, having graduated from Clark University. When she discovered

the former Weintraub’s Deli building was available, she urged him to inquire immediately. That was March 1, 2019 — and Wittner had no idea what would occur over the course of a year. Construction was about twothirds finished when COVID-19 changed everything. “I remember

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S E P T E M B E R 3 - 9, 2020

he COVID-19 pandemic has forced many businesses to close, and restaurants have been no exception. But some restaurants have opened in recent months and are flourishing, even with

tight regulations regarding operations and dining, and owners say that despite the challenges, they are thrilled to be serving up their favorite foods. Two area establishments, Suzette Crêperie & Café at 126 Water St. in Worcester and Ice Cream Pharm at 185 West Main St. in

Jean Luc Wittner, owner of Suzette Creperie & Cafe in Worcester, which recently opened in the former home of Weintraub’s Jewish Delicatessen. ASHLEY GREEN

COVER STORY

Jessica and Craig Valby in their new restaurant, Stave & Still, in Webster. CHRISTINE PETERSON

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loaning supplies when ingredients are low or providing mental support. For Aaron Peek and Carmela Manzaro, opening Ice Cream Pharm was a long time coming. Two years ago, the husband-andwife team decided to make Peek’s love of making ice cream into a full-time venture. Peek grew up in the northeast corner of Texas about 100 miles outside of Dallas — hometown population, 400. “There’s nothing to do except make sweet tea and homemade ice cream. We used to make it in the sink at home,” he said. But then, just as they were near opening in March, the coronaviurs forced a delay. Fortunately, they said, their contractors continued the work and then the couple just had to wait on the final inspections from the town. They finally were able to open on July 18, serving unique homemade hard ice cream that is made on location. “We can’t complain if it’s only four months after we wanted, in light of everything that’s happened,” Manzaro said. “It’s summertime, and everyone wants their ice cream. At least we had the summertime.”

With the regulations on indoor dining, Peek and Manzaro were concerned that customers would not want to go into the establishment to order or to eat, but they would like to soon have online ordering capabilities so they can meet their customers curbside. They are hopeful that their flavors of the week, nondairy and sugarfree offerings, and all-natural ingredients and specialties like ice cream pies, doughnut a la mode and Dole Whips will keep people coming back. They continue making the favorites — “Oreo chocolate chip cookie we can’t keep,” Manzaro said — and are trying to secure a liquor license so they can offer alcohol-infused ice cream. They’ll also try to make customer requests in small batches, Peek said, adding, “If you have an ice cream flavor, let us know.” Despite the pandemic, the couple believe they have a business that will succeed, fueled by Peek’s love of creating different ice cream flavors and Manzaro’s previous experience in the industry — she owned an Italian restaurant in Worcester back in the 1980s. “If you look at the places

S E P T E M B E R 3 - 9, 2020

the day when they shut everything down,” Wittner said. “I thought it may kill us. I was just sitting on the bench, trying to figure out things.” Not only were further construction and the permitting process delayed, but Wittner was unable to secure any of the business grants that were being offered, most of which required owners to show loss of revenue. “When you have no sales, you cannot lose sales,” he said, adding that he spent an immense amount of time seeking help. “The help I got was zero dollars — zero-point-zero dollars.” Once Wittner made it through those tough months, he planned to open on July 14, Bastille Day, which is the national day of France, but the permit didn’t come through in time. Instead, he opened on Aug. 15 — just as appropriate, he said, because it is the birthday of the late Julia Child, the famous American chef known for her traditional French cooking. “We are born on the same day as Julia Child, who brought comfort food to America,” he said of his café. But COVID-19 has continued to bring challenges even after the grand opening. Wittner worked on perfecting a vegan/gluten-free crêpe, and then, there was a shortage of buckwheat, which is the main ingredient in that particular recipe. “I had to reinvent a recipe that took me three to four months to create,” he said. In addition, right now the café has a limited menu and reduced hours due to COVID-19 — on hold is an “amazing brunch menu” that Wittner said will debut later when he can open earlier in the day. Another difficulty is that “COVID has changed the way people eat. Right now, everybody wants delivery. Everybody wants to eat at home,” he said, adding that crêpes are not suitable for delivery because the dough will be too mushy upon arrival. “Quality is my biggest concern. I want to have the best quality possible.” Despite the setbacks, Wittner pointed out some positives, such as the outdoor dining aspect, which he hopes the city of Worcester will make permanent. And, he said, local restaurant owners have become essential in helping each other through the difficulties of COVID, whether it’s

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S E P T E M B E R 3 - 9, 2020

around here, it’s all soft-serve or it’s not made on site,” Peek said. “Twelve hours after I make it, it’s ready to be served.” Unlike the other proprietors, Jessica and Craig Valby, owners of Stave & Still at 131 Main St. in Webster, opened their restaurant because of the pandemic, not in spite of it. The two had owned an event production company in Florida — “an extremely lucrative and fun job,” she said — but everything changed because of COVID-19. With restrictions on the number of people allowed at gatherings, the couple watched as all their scheduled events for four years out were canceled. Having some time on their

hands, they flew to Massachusetts to celebrate Jessica’s mother’s birthday. Valby hadn’t been to her hometown of Webster for years, and during a drive through town, something just clicked. “I said to my husband, ‘Want to open a restaurant in Webster?’” she recalled. “With not having a business, it was a no-brainer. What did we have to lose at that point? We packed up our four children and two dogs into our Expedition and came up, not knowing how long we would stay.” They found a location in downtown Webster that had been vacant for about a year, put their house in Florida on the market and bought a home in Con-

Above, Carmela and Aaron Peek, co-owners of Ice Cream Pharm in Dudley. Below, the interior of Suzette Creperie & Café. ASHLEY GREEN

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Above, Peter Reno, owner of Olo Pizza, which is housed in the former Dacosta Pizza Bakery building, at 40 Millbrook St., Worcester. CHRISTINE PETERSON

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reworked space that uncovered some of the buildingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s forgotten gems â&#x20AC;&#x201D; such as the shiplap woodwork that was covered by some panels and an unused staircase landing leading to the second floor that they now use for access to the whiskey loft â&#x20AC;&#x201D; as well as a menu that, according to its description, is â&#x20AC;&#x153;upscale yet approachable,â&#x20AC;? combining a speakeasy-style with Southern hospitality. Since opening, the positive response has been â&#x20AC;&#x153;overwhelming,â&#x20AC;? she said, particularly with an outdoor patio where they can offer live entertainment and dining tables for those who do not want to eat inside the restaurant. â&#x20AC;&#x153;One of the reasons we chose this space was because of the outdoor patio,â&#x20AC;? Valby said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We saw

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necticut. They signed the lease for what would become Stave & Still on June 1 and opened just two months later, on Aug. 1. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We knocked everything out and met all our timelines. For the most part, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s better than we envisioned. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been a whirlwind,â&#x20AC;? Valby said, crediting the Webster town administrator with shepherding the project through completion. Even with Massachusetts only in the beginning stages of reopening at the time, the couple didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t see it as a challenge. They did talk about the pros and cons of opening a restaurant during a pandemic, and essentially starting their lives over, but eventually, she said, their â&#x20AC;&#x153;adapt-or-die mentalityâ&#x20AC;? won out. What resulted was a completely

S E P T E M B E R 3 - 9, 2020

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S E P T E M B E R 3 - 9, 2020

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that people were more comfortable outdoors. We definitely want it to feel like it was purposeful, instead of knee-jerk.” At the Grid Hospitality Group, which operates most of the dining establishments on the Franklin Street block, including the Beer Garden, executives have made it their business to also purposely work around the challenges presented by the pandemic and limitations regarding dining. A vacant space at 72 Franklin St. in Worcester has been transformed into a restaurant that exclusively features takeout items only, and the menu is an eclectic range of international street food fare, including banh mi sandwiches, grain bowls, arepas, gyros, tacos and burritos. It officially opened on Aug. 17 and offers takeout, online ordering and delivery options. The location had previously been home to Grid-owned Stix Noodle Bar, and Gary Benacquista, director of operations for Grid Hospitality Group, said they had been discussing what to do with the empty space. They knew they would have some challenges serving people in a sit-down restaurant, particularly because regulations at first limited dining to take-out only and then to outdoor seating. At the same time, he and Terrell Wilson, executive chef of Franklin Street Fare, were talking about all their favorite foods, and “we started putting two and two together,” Benacquista said. Benacquista invited Paul Apaarian, with whom he collaborated on a restaurant a couple of years ago, to look at the Franklin Street space and he suggested making it look like the side of a food truck. Ryan Gardell, of Artifakt Studios, created and completed the design, and “it literally looks like a food truck inside a building,” Benacquista said. For Franklin Street Fare, the process to opening was a little easier because the space had previously been a restaurant, according to Benacquista. “We moved pretty quickly. That was one of the silver linings of the shutdown. We just focused on basically trying to retool the area, make each space as safe as possible and make it COVID-compliant, and open as quickly as possible,” he said. They have had some supply issues and the pandemic has required them to be flexible and

Clockwise from top left: Jessica Valby owner of Stave & Still drops in a watermelon ice ball for a tequila mocking bird cocktail (Christine Peterson); Olo Pizza on Millbrook Street is under construction (Christine Peterson); Suzette Creperie & Café, which recently opened in the former home of Weintraub’s Jewish Delicatessen (Ashley Green); Ice Cream Pharm in Dudley (Ashley Green). creative, Benacquista said. “We’ve kind of had to pivot a little bit in creating the menu,” he said. But, he added, “you can’t really complain about it. We’re in the middle of a pandemic. Human lives are more important than anything. You have to accept a certain amount of interruption to the regular routine and figure out how to adapt and work around it.” Over at 40 Millbrook St. in Worcester, the site of the former Dacosta’s Pizza Bakery, Pete Rano and business partner Richard Romaine are doing that as well, as they work on their new venture, Olo Pizza Neapolitan Pie Co., even as the pandemic continues. The two had discussed growing their existing restaurant, Smokestack Urban BBQ, possibly with a

second location, but then decided to focus on a pizza-based eatery. They do not yet have an opening date, but hope to make an announcement within the next several weeks. “I’ve always wanted to open a Neapolitan wooden pizza place,” Rano said. “Our heart and soul is going to be the pizza. It’s really going to be different than what Worcester has seen before. I’m excited to give it to them.” Construction began after they closed the deal in June, and with extensive renovations amid a pandemic, certain aspects, such as slower shipping times and inaccessible products, have been challenging, Rano said. They also have to space out the contractors to keep everything as safe as

possible — “let the floor guys deal with the floor, let the paint guys deal with the paint, and try not to stack everyone on top of each other,” Rano said. Although he and Romaine discussed whether it was right time to open a new restaurant due to the pandemic, “it’s not going to last forever. Let’s put the pedal to the floor and move forward. We’re in it for the long haul,” Rano said of the restaurant. Wittner echoed those sentiments, saying, “I’m really happy overall I made it. Even if it’s tremendously difficult and challenging, if you are creative enough — I think I am — and you have a unique concept — we do — and if you have a vision for the long term — and I had a very clear vision —

if I do all this, I’m convinced I will survive.” All the owners agreed that adaptability and creativity during a pandemic is key, while still being operational. “You can do a passion project and do it in a way you’re keeping yourself, your staff and your community safe,” Benacquista said. And for some, like the Valbys, as hard as the pandemic was for them job-wise, it gave them a reason to start their own passion project. “We actually opened this because of COVID,” Valby said. “If it weren’t for COVID, our event production company would still be booming, we’d be traveling all over the country, and we wouldn’t have done this.”

CITY LIFE If you are an artist, or know of a local artist, email WMeditor@gatehousemedia.com. Fair warning, in order to publish your work, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll need to provide a small bio and high resolution digital copies of some of your art. We reserve the right to choose what will run, based on resolution and what will reproduce best on newsprint.

ARTIST SPOTLIGHT

S E P T E M B E R 3 - 9, 2020

about six years. Painting is her passion and she hopes to move forward and create more opportunities for herself.

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Wendy Romero is a 21-year-old, self-taught painter of

CITY LIFE

LIFESTYLE

I took an electric vehicle on a 400-mile road trip and developed range anxiety

SARAH CONNELL SANDERS

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artists released a bevvy of EPs and singles that demonstrate both the here was a recent article in the region’s musical excellence and the stylistic diversity within the genre. Boston Globe where the author was lamenting that there “I Wouldn’t Trade Being Black were no modern equivalents For Anything,” by Tha Capital G: to Aerosmith, the Cars or the Pixies Tha Capital G doesn’t mince words: in the contemporary Boston music scene. Without getting too deep into “Every day I leave the house/I look it, I wasn’t a fan of the article, but one out for police,” he raps, on the EP’s opening track, “If the Police Kill Me.” assertion it made particularly irked me: He said Boston wasn’t known for “I’m scared they might pull me over/ its hip-hop scene. Clearly, the author and kill me in the streets.” Throughhas not been paying attention to the out the album, the rapper interrogates the landscape of the current serious talent that’s been emerging from both Boston and Worcester. As political culture, and paints a picture of both Black fears and Black exhausif to illustrate my point, several area

tion at having to wrestle with those fears. This song, along with “White Supremacy Is the Enemy,” “Jesus

Was a Black Man With Dreads” and “Black Women” each capture racial oppression from a particular angle. “The kicker is slavery was never abolished,” he raps, on “Supremacy,” “they just changed it to prison systems/ they evolved it.” It’s a stark, bracing album, one that looks at the cultural nightmares of the current moment straight in the eyes, and refuses to back down.

“Black Coffee,” by Ashley Deyj ft. Duane Lux: With this short, bracing album, Deyj demonstrates her ability to create an irresistible hook. The title track is sheer caffeine, two

ASHLEY DEYJ/PROMOTIONAL PHOTO

New England hip-hop is very much alive VICTOR D. INFANTE

going to be a stretch. I coasted as much as I could, trying to keep the gauge in the leafy green range on the screen. It felt like a video game, that is, until my car died approximately 20 feet from the charger. First, I put it in neutral and tried to push. For every inch I moved forward, the car would roll six inches back. Eventually, I collapsed in the grass on the side of the road and dialed triple-A. The tow truck driver assured me that this was not the first time he had assisted with an electric vehicle, although, this was by far the shortest distance he’d ever had to give a tow. He said on the West Coast, AAA has the capability to jumpstart EV’s, but there aren’t enough of them on the east coast to warrant the investment. I proposed a 400-mile road trip in a 2020 Chevrolet Bolt EV Premier. Chevy said yes. The rest was operator error. I thanked him for his help, plugged in, and puttered around Walmart for SARAH CONNELL SANDERS a while, making friends with small stripped down to my underoos and and beautiful. By the time I made it dogs in babybjörns. jumped into the waves. I don’t care to the dune shack trail in P-town at The next leg of my journey was the end of the weekend, I was ripe for who knows. It was a moment of 165 miles. I charged to 185 just to healing and self-forgiveness. My bout a transformation. Shipwrecked sailbe safe. Blame it on the topography, with the Bolt had made me more ors were said to inhabit the shacks but I started to run low just short in the 1800s. Since the 1920s, they’ve patient with myself and more cogniof the Sagamore Bridge when the zant of my surroundings. It had also served as an escape for creatives clock struck 10 p.m. Lucky for me, I made me very late, but who’s telling like Jack Kerouac, e.e. cummings, located a level 3 charging station at time anymore? I can’t recommend Norman Maler and Jackson Pollock. the entrance to the Plymouth County an EV for a traveling salesman, but I like to visit the remote shore each Correctional Facility. A fitting concluI will say, I cherished it on vacation. summer for inspiration. sion in my comedy of errors. Sometimes we all just need to slow When I conquered the dunes Charging stations on the Cape are down. and reached the deserted beach, I much like the Cape itself — snoozy

THA CAPITAL G/PROMOTIONAL PHOTO

S E P T E M B E R 3 - 9, 2020

he pandemic has opened my mind to a host of new possibilities. I learned to cook a whole chicken, I went viral on TikTok, I taught myself how to longboard (sort of) — and all from the comfort of my own city. When I realized I had only filled up my gas tank three times since March, I began to wonder: “Could I hack it in an electric vehicle?” Chevy has been kind enough to give me carte blanche in executing many of my wackiest content ideas. Last month, I proposed a 400-mile road trip in a 2020 Chevrolet Bolt EV Premier — retail $41,895. They said yes. The rest was operator error. The first thing you need to know about driving a Bolt is it can go 259 miles on a full charge if your air conditioning is off and the terrain is flat. A driver info center tells you how many miles you have left, and unlike your gas gauge, there’s no wiggle room. More on that later. If the majority of your trips are local or you are a two-vehicle household, having an EV on hand makes sense. For the perpetually late or those in a hurry, I would advise a different path. I was comforted to learn that there are over 100 public charging stations within 10 miles of Worcester and 68%

of them are totally free. Sounds promising, right? But, only 15% of them are fast-charging, meaning you can get to full capacity in approximately two hours. The rest could take a full day or more to recharge. To be a seasoned electric vehicle owner is to be an exquisite planner. My journey included a baby shower doubleheader that would conclude with my annual soul searching hike at the dune shacks in Provincetown. Despite a robust Chevrolet app designed to help drivers meticulously plan their journeys, I spent the weekend in a constant state of “range anxiety” chasing chargers and praying for downslopes. Most of the level 3 chargers are located at Walmarts and malls where I inevitably ended up shopping to kill time while I waited for a charge. I was 45 minutes late for the first baby shower. (Don’t worry, I made it in time to give the expectant mother a Leonardo Dicaprio biography for the nursery — talk about an environmentalist.) Because I was running late, I ignored the flashing display that said I needed to “charge immediately” and pressed on with my journey. When the last wipe warmer had been opened, I climbed back into my Dicaprio-grade eco-friendly chariot and found my options looked bleak. The shower was in a very rural town and the closest charging station was

layers of voices rapping over a beat sampled from classical violin. It’s C O N T I N U E D O N PA G E 18

CITY LIFE

TABLE HOPPIN’

Glazy Susan doughnut owners eager for opening at DCU BARBARA M. HOULE

Susan and Joseph Skrzek are opening Glazy Susan in the DCU Center soon. They are photographed with their namesake glazy susan donut, left, and their guava cheesecake donut RICK CINCLAIR

making the doughnuts. Get ready to enjoy your favorite Glazy Susan doughnut with a cup of fresh-brewed Vietnamese coffee!

New Englanders loving PunchPops

The New England Burger Bah at Kelley Square’s Worcester Public Market got a recent surprise visit from Worcester Railers mascot, Trax. No word if he dropped in for a bite or chat. Executive chef Al Maykel of the former Evo Dining and Bootleggers Prohibition Pub in Worcester and Domenic D. Mercurio Jr., founder of Worcester’s Best Chef, operate the New England Burger Bah. Besides Trax, it appears parents of incoming college students in the city are bringing business to vendors at the public market Mercurio, the public market’s executive director, said he recently received a note from a college student’s dad who had ordered the Grafton Hill Angus Burger at the burger bah and told him it was the “best tasting hamburger” he has had in years. “Service was outstanding and the food was cooked to perfection. On a stressful day thank you for making such a delicious meal,” was the diner’s message. Compliments to the chef ! Visit www.worcesterpublicmarket.org for list of vendors and hours.

Franklin Park Zoo in Boston hosts a special display, “Boston Lights: A Lantern Experience,” through Nov. 1. The illuminating displays, presented by National Grid, are open nightly through Labor Day. After Labor Day, the display will be open Thursday through Sunday, continuing until Nov. 1. Hours are 6 to 10:30 p.m. For the full schedule and ticket prices, visit www.zoonewengland. org. Spanning the 72 acres of Franklin Park Zoo, Boston Lights has more than 50 large-scale displays composed of hundreds of colorful lanterns. Special features include dramatic arches, a walk-through 66foot long shark tunnel, a 26-foot tall giant panda, a 197-foot long dragon, whimsical ocean scenes, vibrant flowers, traditional Asian lantern scenes and more. “We are thrilled to bring this unique experience to Franklin Park Zoo inspired by the beauty of the natural world, incredible wildlife and rich cultural traditions,” said John Linehan, Zoo New England president and CEO. “We look forward to welcoming visitors of all ages as they immerse themselves in the beauty of the lights.” Marcy Reed, president National

If you have a tidbit for the column, call (508) 868-5282. Send email to bhoulefood@gmail.com.

Nassim Aoude, co-founder of the Worcester based PunchPops, shares news that the company has sold more than a million pops since its New England launch last summer. Most of the company’s plans for this year were “squashed” as a result of COVID-19, said Aoude, but sales of the alcohol-infused PunchPops grew. Aoude and Michael Melkonian started the company together. PunchPops are promoted as a refreshing summer treat with a kick. The wine-based pops are gluten free, with 88 calories and 7.5% alcohol. No artificial sweeteners. Lemon ice is the original flavored ice pop. Raspberry was introduced this year. The pops are sold individually at a suggested retail price of $1.99; 12-packs, $19.99. Aoude said the product is avail-

‘Lantern Experience’ at Franklin Park Zoo

Burger Bah open for business

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The husband-and-wife team formed Glazy Susan in the summer of 2018, making doughnuts at the Worcester Regional Food Hub and selling them at pop-ups. Their inspiration to open a shop came from experiencing and loving different doughnut flavors in doughnut shops they visited traveling across the country. Downtown Worcester development and the fact that the city was without an independent artisanal, from-scratch doughnut shop encouraged the couple to open in their hometown. Joe Skrzek is assistant director of budget and planning for the University of Massachusetts system and alum of the College of the Holy Cross, where he received a degree in economics. A pharmacist, Susan Skrzek graduated from Worcester State University with a degree in biology and received a Doctorate of Pharmacy from MCPPH-Worcester. She plans to work as a per diem pharmacist, allowing her more time to spend in the new business. Joe Skrzek continues to work for the University of Massachusetts and also helps with

Grid, Massachusetts, said the displays offer a wonderful opportunity for visitors to enjoy the zoo and all it has to offer. “The zoo’s programs and exhibits enhance our quality of life and we are pleased to do our part on behalf of the customers and communities we serve,” she said. All the lanterns are illuminated with energy-saving LED lights. The same health and safety measures in place for a daytime visit to the zoo are also in place for Boston Lights. Advance tickets for a designated day and time only. Safety protocols are listed on the zoo website and visitors are required to wear face coverings and social distance.

S E P T E M B E R 3 - 9, 2020

ans of Glazy Susan doughnuts welcomed news earlier this year that owners Joseph ( Joe) and Susan Skrzek would open a location inside Reign Café at the DCU Center. The couple last week announced that they would be selling their handcrafted, artisanal doughnuts in early September at the former Figs & Pigs DCU location. Talk about having a doughnut moment! Different in their flavors and just plain irresistible, Glazy Susan doughnuts will be sold on Saturdays and Sundays only, at a tent outside Reign Café until the café opens to the public later this fall. Until then, only the doughnuts, coffee, smoothies and other beverages will be available for take-out only. The weekend opening date is expected to be posted on social media. The Skrzeks are partners in Reign Café with Tam Le, owner of Reign Drink Lab in Dorchester, and Son Vo, owner of Kaizen in Sturbridge and Pho Sure in Shrewsbury. The partnership is a great fit, according to the Skrzeks, who previously had looked into the downtown location prior to DCU Center’s general manager Sandra Dunn suggesting they reach out to Le and Vo. The café project partnership got off the ground last year. Worcester natives, the Skrzeks said they take great pride in the city and they are excited to create something positive in Worcester in an otherwise difficult time. The decision to delay the grand opening of Reign Cafe to late fall is a result of COVID-19, according to Joe Skrzek. Once the café opens, customers will be able to sit inside and enjoy food, beverages and doughnuts, he said. “The perfect plan would have the cafe open six days a week, but everything now really depends on COVID-19,” said Skrzek. Glazy Susan’s owners not only are committed to making doughnuts from scratch, but also sourcing local ingredients. The mere word of the company name elicits a passionate response from devotees.

able in more than 1,300 liquor, grocery and convenience stores in Massachusetts, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Maine and Vermont; online ordering and delivery is in 39 states. Visit https://drinkpunchpops.com; connect on social media. “Despite the competitive landscape, PunchPops has managed to remain the top seller in its current five states,” said Aoude. “Overwhelming success in Maine (the birthplace of the idea for the product) has catapulted the company to be one of the top performing wine suppliers in that state,” he said. Given the brand’s success in the New England region, the company looks to gain growth nationally with a focus on southern and western states, said Aoude.

CITY LIFE

FILM

The shocking death of Chadwick Boseman

S E P T E M B E R 3 - 9, 2020 WORCESTERMAGAZINE.COM

arresting, as is the call-and-response of “Espresso” and the pugilistic spirit of “Heat Rises.” Lux is given a lot of lyrical space, maybe more than Deyj herself, but it takes a few listens for that to really stand out: He’s got a steadiness that well balances Deyj’s more rough-and-tumble flow. It’s a brisk little effort, at a mere four tracks, but when the final song, “Hot Topic Deluxe,” rolls to a close, there’s a definite sense of satisfaction. “Social Absence,” by Cliff Notez: In a mere three songs, Notez manages to take the listener on a tour of the sense of anxiety and alienation that permeate the current moment. The opening number, “Voodoo Doll,” is a robust piece of work, with Notez capturing a sense of mania as the song builds to a fever pitch, descending at the end to a short interlude of jazz before giving way to the paranoia-laced “Spiral.” “I’m not swimming in this spiral,” he raps, “I’m just trying to stay afloat/I should look them in the eye/show them that I got a soul.” The whole

song reverberates with a sense helplessness and a lack of control, and that discordant vibe nestles its way into the listener’s chest. It all resolves — as well as these things can — with the controlled vocal grind of “Repeat,” where Notez ponders cycles of both social and personal pain: “From your lips to God’s ears,” he raps, “We are still here.” “REDvolution,” by Jazzmyn RED: Boston rapper RED creates here a multilayered sonic landscape that reaches back to the likes of Gil Scott-Heron and Billie Holiday, building off their iconic work while speaking to a contemporary audi-

ence. It’s an absolutely spellbinding piece of work, with songs such as the title track, which echoes ScottHeron’s “The Revolution Will Not Be Televised,” and the subsequent “Cry No More” tracing the outlines of the artist’s own psychic armor: “Making pain into poetry,” as she raps in the latter song. From there, she delves into an archaeology of pain and heartache. On “ShootHER” she raps, “How can you defile a child and feel no consequence?/how can you abuse a woman and condemn

violence?/a product of entitlement/ the sum of all corruption/a plague

Chadwick Boseman starred in the iconic superhero film, “Black Panther.” He died Aug. 28 at the age of 43. MARVEL STUDIOS/DISNEY

Boseman’s death will not slow the march of a franchise character. I’ve already found myself spinning through a roster of actors most likely to next wear the coolest cos-

tume in the Marvel Universe. But that’s a conversation for another day. A talented man has died young. I was a fan of his work, and I regret I won’t see more of it.

on the environment.” RED isn’t holding anything back on this album, and that makes for a gripping listening experience. When she takes a more R&B turn with “Monster,” it both breaks up the album’s energy and recasts the political narrative: “You’ve created a monster,” she sings, and it’s an act of defiance, a pushback against the cultural toxicity that the album’s been illustrating. This is, ultimately, an album with bite, but it’s also one with hope, as illustrated by the closing number, “We Gon Make It.” “I’m gonna speak my truth,” she raps, “even if my voice shakes.” The album’s a stirring piece of work, one that positively radiates with energy and defiance, and it’s immensely rewarding.

singles are less about competition and trying to top one another, as the titles would suggest, and more about having one another’s back in

“’98 Sosa,” “Bonds & McGuire” and “Power Hitters,” by Juice Headz: Worcester-area rappers Ghost of the Machine and Weapon E.S.P. have hit a number of home runs in their hip-hop career, both separately and together (such as on their Savageland project earlier this year), but here they seem to be leaning into the idea a little literally. Surprisingly, though, these

/CHRISTINE PETERSON

GHOST OF THE MACHINE

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C O N T I N U E D F R O M P A G E 16

Brown in “Get on Up.” Spike Lee must have known of Boseman’s health challenges when he enlisted him to play Stormin’ Norman in the Vietnam saga “Da Five Bloods.” Lee says he could envision no one more capable of portraying the warrior supreme whose battlefield death still haunts his buddies, even if Boseman’s condition was growing precarious. The sense of loss we feel when an actor like Boseman dies is largely about us — we mourn the performances we will never see, we grieve the lost kinship we’d internalized from his movies and late-night interviews (not only was Boseman a fine actor, he also seemed to be a solid guy). Boseman, of course, didn’t know us from Ant Man. That’s the deal we strike with film stars: We admire their work, and we hope they maintain some awareness of our collective appreciation. Someone else will play Black Panther one day. We’ve chugged though multiple Batmans (and Jokers), Supermans and SpiderMans in a relatively brief span, and

JAZZMYN RED/PROMOTIONAL PHOTO

hen I scan the T&G in the morning, I start from the obituaries. It’s my first read of the last call. You might think this morbid, but I see it differently. My initial interest is to learn whether I know someone who’s passed — something my grandparents used to do, then my parents, and now me. The older I get the greater the likelihood of spotting a familiar name. Many people I interviewed during my reporting days have died: World War II vets who recalled their combat experiences, sometimes through tears; amateur historians of the Wachusett towns I covered; teachers, politicians, and, sometimes, former co-workers with whom I’d fallen out of touch, despite our shared insistence that we never would. I’m most intrigued by the stories. Every day I make it a point to read at least one obituary of someone I hadn’t known. Where did they work? What were their hobbies?

What gave them joy? Whom did they leave behind? Within only a few paragraphs a human being emerges — not full-blown portrait, but now not a complete stranger. The young deaths make you gasp, and are the hardest to absorb. And when youth is coupled with celebrity, it’s an earthquake. What a shocking development then to wake up on Sunday morning and learn that Chadwick Boseman had died of colon cancer at the age of 43. He’d kept his diagnosis concealed from the public for four years, and did so very well. Who could have guessed the finely muscled physique inside the Black Panther costume had been bullied by multiple surgeries and chemotherapy treatments? In his too-brief career, Boseman had come to define Black heroism on screen in both its fictional and true-life incarnations. In addition to the regal T’Challa in “Black Panther” and the recent “Avengers” movies, he played baseball legend Jackie Robinson in “42,” Supreme Court Justice Thurgood Marshall in “Marshall” and singer James CLIFF NOTEZ/CHRISTINE PETERSON

JIM KEOGH

an insane world, especially in the latter song where they’re insinuating taking bats to neo-Nazis’ heads and rapping lines like, “I march with you, Dark Phoenix/to try and influence the White Supremacists.” This is some bare-knuckled work from the pair, set to some interesting, offkilter beats. There’s a heaviness and a touch of darkness to the work, but there’s a sense of momentum that helps transform the music’s weight into power.

CITY LIFE

THE NEXT DRAFT

Grafton, let’s work together to bring a brewery to town MATTHEW TOTA

Meet Grafton’s biggest advocates for a brewery opening in town: Reunion Tap & Table owners, from left, Shawn Briggs, Josh Briggs and Sargon Hanna. MATTHEW TOTA

But their example should not turn away potential breweries. And they remain optimistic that Grafton will have a brewery one day. “I love the idea of a brewery here, and there’s no question there would be a demand,” Shawn Briggs said. “Look at a brewery like Cold Harbor in Westboro. If it can succeed in that small space, in that odd location — a lot of people don’t even know how to get there — there’s definitely a chance for Grafton.” I find solace in their optimism. Consider Marlboro, my former city: It got proactive to net a brewery in its downtown, actually putting out ads in beer magazines looking for breweries, saying it would help with small business loans and permitting to ensure a smooth opening. And in one year, two arrived. So, Grafton, let’s follow that example. I’m here for 30 years, at least, plenty of time to lure a taproom or two.

WORCESTERMAGAZINE.COM

What ends up happening is business owners tend to get stagnant. When you have no competition, you get lazy. It’s just human nature. Why do I

have to try harder if no one will stop me or no one will beat me? Even if a brewery is a competition, it’s a good thing for me, because that will make me up my game.” Hanna’s partners at Reunion, brothers Shawn and Josh Briggs, feel the same way. And as the owners of Wicked Twisted Pretzels, they have an intimate knowledge of what it takes to run a brewery, having built relationships with many of New England’s top brewers. Once, they even tried to open a brewpub here themselves. “The site was septic, though, and the town wouldn’t let us tie into the sewage system because of our water usage,” Shawn Briggs said. “I’ve worked in the restaurant industry my whole life, so it made more sense to do a restaurant with a beer focus, rather than trying cut through the red tape,” his brother said. It hurt to hear that, knowing the success of Wicked Twisted Pretzel.

S E P T E M B E R 3 - 9, 2020

ast Sunday marked my first full week as a homeowner here in the place of small stones. I have but only one complaint. There are no breweries. Why point this out? Grafton has strong schools, safe streets, plenty of fine restaurants — don’t kvetch. I moved from Marlboro, a city with three breweries. The transition from three taprooms to no taprooms has proven especially difficult for this beer columnist. Grafton has never even received a proposal from a brewery, as far as I can tell. In recent years, the town has focused on netting more biotech companies and now seems a popular location for the marijuana industry. A brewery would no doubt thrive here. And the town sees the potential economic benefits of one. In 2016, for instance, local officials and residents approved an amendment to Grafton’s zoning bylaws that added specific definitions for breweries and expanded the areas in town where a brewery could open. The amendment came out of a large push by town planners to make Grafton more friendly and welcoming to new businesses. Four years later and still no brewery. And yet Grafton residents have an obvious thirst for craft beer. You can see it at places like Reunion Tap & Table, which has one of the most dynamic tap lists in Central Massachusetts. On Sunday morning, I dragged Reunion’s co–founder, Sargon Hanna, away from his family to talk Grafton’s lack of breweries. We met at Reunion, a day removed from its two-year anniversary, and sat outside — the restaurant’s long, impressive draft menu scrawled in marker on big glass windows to our left. Hanna seemed fine with my bothering him at 10 a.m. on his day of rest for this relatively unimportant matter. He drank water, while I — don’t judge — had a double IPA from River Styx Brewing. One of Hanna’s many duties as coowner of Reunion includes ordering the beer. He loves the local stuff, while also peppering in some of the hard-toget, out-of-state brews, like those from Connecticut’s Fox Farm Brewery and

Vermont’s Foam Brewers. He did not share my surprise over Grafton’s dearth of breweries. A lifelong resident who has served on both the Planning Board and the Board of Selectmen, he said the town had a reputation for being unfriendly to new business, but that has started to change in recent years. One of the main hurdles for a brewery eyeing Grafton is the town has had no available real estate. “Our downtown, our commercial zone, is really along Route 122 with a few other spaces in South Grafton,” Hanna said. “But the buildings in those areas have been there for a while. A lot of them are preexisting, nonconforming. And there are a lot of wetlands around them. Most of these buildings can’t move, and many of them are occupied. They weren’t suitable for breweries.” That landscape is changing, too, owing in large part to projects like the North Grafton Transit Village Master Plan, which would create prime real estate for business and residential development on over 800 acres of land off Route 30. “There’s a huge opportunity for a brewery to come in and do something there,” Hanna said, highlighting the industrial areas around Westborough Road as a perfect fit for breweries. When a brewery finds the right location, it will see that Grafton has much to offer. The town has been among the fastest-growing in the state and, with restaurants like Reunion and the Grafton Grill & Crust, has begun to change its bedroom community image. “A taproom would kill here,” Hanna said, fully embracing any potential competition. “I don’t think competition is necessarily a bad thing,” he said. “Competition is good for all businesses.

CITY LIFE

ADOPTION OPTION Welcome to Adoption Option, a partnership with the Worcester Animal Rescue League highlighting their adoptable pets. Check this space often to meet all of the great pets at WARL in need of homes.WARL is open seven days a week, noon-4 p.m., 139 Holden St. Check them out online at Worcesterarl.org, or call at (508) 853-0030.

SARA MCCLURE

WORCESTERMAGAZINE.COM

S E P T E M B E R 3 - 9, 2020

Meet Aura! This spunky, silly girl came to us as a stray. She is not only beautiful, but she is sweet and smart! Aura came to us with Entropion in her left eye. This is an eye condition where the eyelid rolls inward, causing rubbing and irritation. Aura had surgery to fix her eye and is much more comfortable and able to see more clearly now. Aura is very energetic and likes to “talk” She would do best with an active family, who has no small children and no other animals. Aura has a big personality and she will be all you need. She will happily jump right into your lap, not realizing she is not lap dog size, this girl has so much love to give she cannot contain herself. Her happygo-lucky personality is sure to win you over and make you fall in love. If you would like to meet Aura, please contact the shelter.

WARL COVID-19 Procedures As of March 25, 2020

As the COVID-19 pandemic continues to evolve, we want to share with you some changes we have implemented so that we can continue to serve the pets and people of our community while keeping our team protected. • ADOPTIONS: At this time, adoptions are being held BY APPOINTMENT ONLY. If you are interested in adoption, please visit our website worcesterarl.org/adopt/ to learn more about our available animals then call us at (508) 853-0030 ext.0 or email us at info@worcesterarl.org to schedule an appointment. • Casual visits to the shelter are prohibited. We will strictly enforce this in order to keep our animal care team protected while still maintaining the most essential function of our operation... finding homes for animals in need.

• ANIMAL SURRENDERS: Our business practice for surrendering a pet remains the same. All pet owners must contact WARL in advance of surrendering a pet. Please call (508) 853-0030. • SPAY/NEUTER CLINICS: All scheduled appointments will be honored. If you have a scheduled appointment, we will be contacting you to discuss changes to our drop off/pick up procedures. • DONATIONS: We will not be accepting linens of any kind or used, stuffed dog toys. While we are grateful for your thoughtfulness, we will not accept these donations if brought to the shelter. • Pet food, cat litter, and other shelter supplies will be essential in continuing to provide for our animals and to assist community members in need. To avoid unnecessary travel and exposure, items can be purchased online from our Amazon Wishlist - https://www.amazon.com/gp/ registry/wishlist/3AX342JIL73M0

• Weekly training classes are suspended until further notice. • The WARL Volunteer Program is temporarily suspended. All regular volunteer shifts are on hold. We look forward to welcoming you back as soon as we can. We have many animals in our care who depend on us to stay healthy and well. The above measures help to protect our staff and community from the spread of COVID - 19 by minimizing face-to-face interactions while continuing to operate only core essential services. Please continue to follow our Facebook page for additional updates. Should you have any questions or concerns, please contact the shelter at (508) 853-0030 or info@worcesterarl.org.

Thank you for your continued FURiendship and support.

GAMES

J O N E S I N’

36 Ultra-bright 41 Go quickly 42 Muscle that makes things stand upright 46 Entire range 47 Trump’s ex 48 Dashboard 49 Annoy your bedmate, in a way 52 Composer Stravinsky 54 Part of a reversal, maybe 55 Actor Ed in a famous “Tonight Show” tomahawk-throwing stunt 56 Pigsty 58 Phone line invasion 59 Lance of the O.J. trial 61 Leave change on the table

Last week's solution

WORCESTERMAGAZINE.COM

Down 1 Fanfare noise

2 Deputy played by Michael Weston in the “Dukes of Hazzard” movie 3 They’re stroked but not seen 4 Sarkisian, for Cher, once 5 Gathering dust 6 County gatherings 7 Like some refills 8 Lincoln or Grant, e.g. 9 Not-quite-ready-to-fold remark 10 Tayback who played Mel on “Alice” 11 Lang. that doesn’t really contain that many words for “snow” 12 Forest floor growth 13 Blurry area, maybe 14 Witherspoon who played an angel in “Little Nicky” 21 Confidential phrase 24 Outdo in 26 Pt. of ESL 27 “If ___ be so bold ...” 28 Shat this clue has 29 Took on, as a burden 30 Redundant-sounding cash dispenser 31 Dominant figures 33 “___ of Me” (1993 PJ Harvey album) 34 Auction grouping 35 Capital home to a Viking Ship Museum

S E P T E M B E R 3 - 9, 2020

Enjoy Fun By The Numbers puzzles? Then you’ll love sudoku. This mind-bending puzzle will have you hooked from the moment you square off, so sharpen your pencil and put your sudoku savvy to the test! Here’s How It Works: Sudoku puzzles are formatted as a 9x9 grid, broken down into nine 3x3 boxes. To solve sudoku, the numbers 1 through 9 must fill each row, column and box. Each number can appear only once in each row, column and box. You can figure out the order in which the numbers will appear by using the numeric clues already provided in the boxes. The more numbers you name, the easier it gets to solve the puzzle!

Across 1 Starts the golf game 8 Steel worker of sorts 15 All pointy and line-y 16 Season division 17 Yell directed at a much-hated portal? 18 Speedo bunch? 19 Org. 20 “Classic Concentration” puzzle type 22 Word before Moines or Plaines 23 Target of crunches 25 “Charlotte’s Web” author White and namesakes 26 In ___ (actually) 27 Voicemail message opener, if you know someone well 30 Georgia airport code 31 One-named comedian and host of “Celebrity Fit Club” 32 “What’ll break if I break up with you” response, for a thuggish couple? 37 Where letters are sent to the mil. 38 Futuristic van Damme flick of 1994 39 Sweet suffix 40 Vegetarian’s “Duh!” response to why they hate their formerly vegan pal? 43 Brit or kiddie follower 44 Actress Jillian 45 Illegal lighting 46 Early gay rights advocate André 48 Campus comedy with a cameo by George Clinton 49 Wind dir. 50 Mass ___ (Boston thoroughfare, to locals) 51 Play cowritten by Mark Twain and Bret Harte 53 Prepare the day before 57 Drink Mencken called “The only American invention as perfect as the sonnet” 60 Library’s attempt at copying milk ads? 62 Like leftovers 63 Ripken’s team 64 He’s a little froggy 65 Keep in check

“Join Up!” -- Two and two are indeed four. [#215, Aug. 2005] By Matt Jones

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LAST CALL

Lord Smokey Bruja L ord Smokey Bruja’s final local show “Bee Like Honey” will take place at The Bridge at 300 Southbridge St. Sept. 5 from 4 to 9 p.m. When did you arrive in Worcester? In 1985 when I was almost 10 years old. I was born in Puerto Rico.

Of course. Oh my god, I’m sorry I didn’t put that together. What happened? I was working with a lot of musicians. It just got to the What is the theme of your point that I really wasn’t paying upcoming show? The theme is attention to the characteristics of bees and honey. The queen bee has some of these people. One day, I been slaughtered. Her life taken met the wrong guy and I worked away. For some reason, she has the with the wrong person. It affected power to continue on. This gets me in a profound way. I fell into a really personal. She is bound by really deep depression and I felt her community and her job is to like what happened was that they continue to give life over and over killed her. Burned her at a wooden again. Where there is sacrifice stake. When I speak about her, I there is growth. But it isn’t just speak of her as though she was my about Bees for me its about Love sister and she died and nobody and Fear. It’s about strength and ever found the body. That’s how survival. I feel. I have no way of knowing where she is or if I’ll ever find her I only want you to share what again. I’ve gone through therapy. It feels comfortable. Sarah, you was constant, constant, constant, would know me by an old name constant pain. If I want to survive that I don’t go by anymore. You as an artist — if I want to survive and I have actually met before. as a mother, I have to leave here. I need to save myself. If it seems like We have? I feel like the artist I I’m giving up because I’m leaving,

I’m not. I’m expanding my power to a whole new place and I’m taking my throne with me. I don’t think you’re giving up. This show is a rebirth. New beginnings are so hard and I applaud you. I admire you. Thank you that means a lot. I still want to see Worcester thrive but there’s nothing left here for me. I’ve already conquered this place. Like a good friend said, “You’re too good for this place. Worcester is too small for you.” He knows who he is. Do you have any last words for Worcester? I want everyone to know they are not alone. I’m just doing the best to stay alive. That’s what this show is about. It’s about being as small as a bee, but making something as beautiful as golden honey. I’m taking that power with me. The only thing I’m leaving behind is my art. – Sarah Connell Sanders

When people started to view your art as ‘fine art’ versus ‘urban art,’ had your visual style changed at all, or was it just their perception? It hadn’t changed then, but I’m starting to change now. Galleries usually earn about 30% of whatever you make. I ended up having to raise the prices of my work so I could actually get into the art galleries and make a living. But essentially

used to be was murdered. You knew me by the artist name [redacted].

WORCESTERMAGAZINE.COM

Tell me about your career trajectory as an artist. Originally, I was considered an “urban artist,” but then over time, I started to get a lot more attention from fine art galleries. I did a short tour in the New England area. All of a sudden, I started getting phone calls from more galleries and I thought it was really strange. Artists are pretty much used to begging to get on a waiting list. This was different for me. They wanted me. Showing work at a gallery in Boston increased the value of my work.

it was the same work. It was the matter of who wanted my work and how much they were willing to pay for it that transitioned my work from Urban Art to Fine Art. That’s the industry! That’s every industry.

DYLAN AZARI

S E P T E M B E R 3 - 9, 2020

How did your love of art begin? It was all I had as a kid. My family was pretty much poor. We followed my uncle around everywhere because he was in the military. He was the youngest of seven and I was adopted by my maternal grandmother so I was brought up with him and my other uncle. We spent a lot of time moving around and my mother pretty much did whatever she could for me, but I grew up without many toys. I remember I had two stuffed animals. One was an elephant and the other one was a camel. Art was a healthy way for me to be able to keep myself occupied. When I was about four years old, we were living in Jersey City and I remember I couldn’t sleep. My mom drew a picture of a rooster on a napkin because we didn’t have anything else. I just kept copying the rooster over and over and over again. And then the rooster became a cat and then the cat became a dog and then the dog became a horse. And then my mom was just like, “Wow, my daughter can do things. My daughter has a talent.” It was the only thing she could actually provide me with that would nurture me and keep me out of trouble.

My first gallery show was in Manhattan, but as I got into my late 30s, I decided to focus on my own community more. I had helped build the very first Worcester Youth Center back in the ’90s. I was one of the first city workers at Worcester Community Action Council. My career took me to other places, but eventually, I realized it was important to start mentoring other artists here in Worcester. I wanted them to know that they had a chance. I never had anybody tell me as a kid that art was going to bring me more life. Instead, what I mostly got was people laughing at me and saying things like, “What makes you think you’re going to succeed? What makes you so special?” I never forced it. For some reason, when you do something really special, it makes a lot of people angry. I didn’t want to be like that. I wanted to be the opposite. When my kids got older and they moved out, I was just like, “Okay, now it’s time for me to take life into my own hands and make something of it.” I knew what made me happy, and art is it.

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Worcester Magazine September 3 - 9, 2020

Articles inside

Last Call

Classifieds

The Next Draft

Table Hoppin

Featured

Artist Spotlight

Cover Story

Games

Adoption Option

Film