JULY 23 - 29, 2020 WORCESTERMAGAZINE.COM
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Restaurant workers in limbo
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23 the cover Server Khary Richardson works at The Fix. Story on page 10
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Singer Honest, Honeycutt One Productions team for song to memorialize George Floyd
Honeycutt One Productions and singer Honest are putting out a song to mark the death of George Floyd and other victims of police brutality. Pictured at the new Black Lives Matter mural are Johnhaynes Honeycutt, producer Jesse Mave and singer Honest. ASHLEY GREEN
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RICHARD DUCKET T
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song being recorded locally to mark the twomonth anniversary of the death of George Floyd May 25 in Minneapolis is dedicated to his 6-year-old daughter, Gianna Floyd. It will be part of a video album put together by Honyceycutt One Productions in Worcester that will also have songs honoring other people of color who became victims following encounters with the police, including Trayvon Martin and Sandra Bland. “The list goes on,” said Worcester singer Honest, who is writing, singing and recording the songs in collaboration with Johnhaynes Honeycutt of Honeycutt One Productions. Honest and Honeycutt have known each other since high school, and both wanted to do something in response to the death of Floyd, who was killed by a police officer kneeling on his throat. “We did some talking,” said Honeycutt, a musician, actor and author whose Honeycutt One Productions seeks to provide opportunities to creative people in music, acting, broadcasting and related fields. “We wanted to put together a song for
(Floyd’s) two-month anniversary. It’s essentially a letter to his daughter,” he said. “It’s like a letter explaining to her that black is beautiful and there’s nothing wrong with being black at all,” said Honest. Honeycutt said, “It’s essentially keeping (Gianna’s) spirits up. Knowing who you are as a person. Knowing people love you. Not allowing the evils of life to corrupt you.” Honeycutt One Productions will donate any proceeds the song raises to Gianna, Honeycutt said. With that in mind, Honyecutt hopes other Worcester area artists will take Honest’s recording as a springboard to record their own songs to Gianna and become part of the project. From initially making the one song for Gianna Floyd, the project has expanded into the album and video also dedicated to other victims of police brutality, and people are being invited to come on board for that as well. “I talk about police brutality (in the Gianna song),” Honest said. “She said her dad was gonna change the world. Her dad really did change the world.” Since May 25 those changes have reverberated to Worcester and sur-
rounding towns, including a “Rally for George Floyd” downtown and the recent painting of the first Black Lives Matter mural. “Other songs are dedicated to some of the other victims that have fallen to police brutality,” Honest said. The video will have Honest walking down a street “and noticing everything that’s happening,” he said. “I just hope our president can be able to hear this and see the damage that’s being done around the world. We just want peace, and hopefully he makes the change,” Honest said. “We’re looking to bring artists of Worcester together to join this project,” Honeycutt said. “We’re looking to get organizations involved.” The idea is to have the album finished by September. Songs will likely premiere on Facebook Live, Honeycutt said. People will also be needed to appear in the videos. Anyone interested in becoming involved should send an email to johnhayneshoneycutt@gmail.com. Honeycutt, who has lived in Worcester his entire life, didn’t take the conventional route after graduating from Holy Name High School and going to college as he initially planned. He has traveled a lot to
pursue acting and has appeared as a background actor on several TV shows and movies, including “Love Life” starring Anna Kendrick. Meanwhile, he become a business owner and entrepreneur in Worcester. Earlier this year, his novel “RISE” was published; it tells the fictional story of Yolanda Davis from her early childhood in the Jim Crow South of the 1940s to becoming a prominent member of the Black Panther Party for Self Defense in the 1960s. Especially after the assassination of Rev. Martin Luther King Jr., young men and women of color were tired of turning the other cheek, Honeycutt noted in a previous interview. There are potentially damaging consequences for Davis in becoming a major voice for the Black Panther Party. “The Black Panther (Party) is something not covered as much as it should be,” Honeycutt said. The party introduced a free breakfast program and informed and influenced many people about their civil rights, he said. At the same time, J. Edgar Hoover was trying to destroy them. Honest is originally from Ghana, and came to Worcester when he was 8 years old. “In Worcester, there are some po-
lice who will stop you,” Honest said. On the other hand, he said, that’s not all police, and he has a cousin who is a police officer. However, “I myself have been harassed,” Honest said. On one occasion, he said, he was driving his mother’s car at Kelley Square when he was stopped by a police officer who “asked me to get out the car. He was searching the car. He said, ‘Is there any marijuana in the car?’ I was stopped for no good reason.” Honest is a residential counselor at the Dr. Franklin Perkins School in Lancaster. As a singer, his style is “more like R&B but with poetry. It’s like talking with melody,” he said. He’s performed around Worcester but took a pause and is now getting back into music and performing again. He and Honeycutt were both in talent shows at Holy Name High School. “We kept in contact. This is a project he brought to and I’m glad he chose me,” he said of the singing for George Floyd, Travyon Martin, Sandra Bland and the many others. And for Gianna Floyd. “I hope she gets to hear it and really likes it and gets some good advice from what we’re doing,” Honest said.
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WooHaHa! has its first comedy show since COVID-19 at the Worcester Beer Garden CRAIG S. SEMON
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ive comedy is officially back in the Heart of the Commonwealth. The WooHaHa! Comedy Club had its first comedy show July 16 since the coronavirus pandemic shut down comedy clubs (and practically everything else) back in mid-March. However, the standup showcase was not at the home of the WooHaHa! but a stone’s throw away at the Worcester Beer Garden Pavilion. Under an open-sided, airy and spacious white tent, shut-in comedy lovers going stir crazy because of COVID-19 weren’t cooped up anymore. In fact, about 50 of them came out to see standup comedians Corey Rodrigues, Christine Hurley, Jimmy Cash and Ben Bosunga yuk it up. Easily six feet away from one another on the arrow-marked floor, most tables had only two patrons, some had three and four, and, on one occasion, one had six. Bar patrons wore masks when they walked in and were escorted to their respective table by an attendant, also wearing a mask. Although you could take your mask off at your table, all workers wore masks throughout the evening and patrons wore masks whenever they walked around the premises. If anyone was nervous about entering a comedy club, they left their anxieties at the door. Sarah Boisvert of Charlton and Heather Ponte of Rutland said they were not nervous about being there. “People are wearing masks and social distancing and I feel that is appropriate and I am not worried about catching it (the coronavirus),” Boisvert said. “I think the restaurant does a good job cleaning everything thoroughly and taking the precautions that were asked of the state,” Ponte added. Not only were Northboro couple Ed Ward and Jennifer Foley not afraid to come out to see live comedy Thursday night, they had already did it the weekend before at Mohegan Sun. “Opening the comedy thing is awesome,” Ward said. “It’s good to be out with other people.” “With the tables being six feet apart, it seems a little bit less disconcerting,” Foley added.
Winner of “The Catch a New Rising Star” and “The Funniest Comic in New England” competitions, Corey Rodrigues declared “We are back!” Describing himself as being “germaware” not a “germophobe,” Rodrigues, who graduated from Becker College, joked about his hatred of masks and not being able to read one’s facial expressions anymore. “I just want to eat grapes while I’m there (at the grocery store),” Rodrigues lamented about a life-
long passion of his that has been squashed by the coronavirus. The Ashland-based comedian also joked about losing friends over “stupid fights” on whether the coronavirus is real or a hoax. For those keeping score at home, Rodrigues is on the side that it’s real. “The quarantine has got me,” Rodrigues said. “My back is fat.” One of his most uncomfortable but funny routines (even more uncomfortable than a toe-sucking routine
he did) was being on a plane with a quivering-lipped man with a chronic, “sneeze Febreze in the air” cough. When a young woman sneezed in the audience, Rodrigues, without missing a beat, said, “Bless you. Coronavirus alert!” After his headlining set (which was his second post-coronavirus since reopening the Comix Roadhouse at Mohegan Sun a week earlier), Rodrigues said it feels good to be performing standup and see
people coming out again. “People are excited,” Rodrigues said. “They can’t wait to get out. People are like, ‘Oh, it’s OK.’ Good. They’re waiting for someone to say it … They’re waiting for someone to give them the green light.” Rodrigues said he’s not concerned about catching the coronavirus. “I’m not licking anybody or anything,” he said. “Seriously, I’m not even trying to be funny about it. I feel OK. We’re outside in a tent. Ev-
Audience members enjoy a laugh as comedian Ben Bosunga takes to the stage July 16 during the socially distanced WooHaHa! comedy show at the Worcester Beer Garden. ASHLEY GREEN
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erybody was distant, so it was good.” Rodrigues said he lost “tons” of clubs, colleges, cruises and corporate shows due to COVID-19. During the break, Rodrigues said he created “Corey’s Stories,” a squeaky-clean children’s show on his Facebook page and YouTube, which he is very proud of. Known as “The Queen” of Boston Comedy, Hurley — who appeared
ing to be a crazy year when the couple got married at the Dunkin’ Donuts on Grafton Street. Although Jason Roy and Valerie Sneade got married on Dec. 27, 2019 (and not technically this year), it was still a funny joke. Addressing the coronavirus, Cash said, the other day, a panhandler took his temperature before taking his money. Although his baby face good looks
Guests could sit with up to six friends during the socially distanced WooHaHa! comedy show. Once at their seats, they were permitted to remove their masks. ASHLEY GREEN
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make him look like he could still be in high school, Cash has been a custodian in the Worcester public schools for 16 years. One of his funnier routines dealt with people, after learning he’s a custodian, asking him what he has been doing since the coronavirus pandemic closed the schools. “What the (expletive) have you been doing? What the (expletive) has anybody been doing?” Cash snapped. “I’ve been doing (expletive)!” Cash, whose first night back performing standup was that night, said he has turned down some gigs because he was concerned about safety. But, when he heard the performance at the Worcester Beer Garden was going to be outside, under a tent, he said he decided to give it a whirl. “It was better than I expected,” Cash said. “They did a great job with the setup, how open it was, spread out, and everyone wearing their masks. I feel they did a great job with that.” In his second standup act since the coronavirus pandemic, Bosunga, who lives in Worcester, joked about the days before COVID-19 when people would be afraid seeing someone wearing a mask in a store. Now, it’s commonplace. Signing off onstage, Bosunga said, “We’re trying to keep this going all summer.”
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earlier this season on “America’s Got Talent” — told the crowd how she and her fellow comedians have been dying to perform and how they were all so grateful for everyone who came out to support live standup. “We need you more than you need us,” Hurley said. From there, the very funny and foul-mouthed mother of five delivered a killer set on raising five kids and her 32-year marriage to Jimmy Hurley, a Brockton firefighter who, she emphasized, is clearly no hero, and accidentally wore ladies pants he bought at Ocean State Job Lot for $6.99 at Easter dinner at a restaurant. She gave accolades to the Worcester Beer Garden waitstaff, revealing that she was a waitress for two years until she had the epiphany, “My God, I (expletive) hate people.” After her third standup performance since the coronavirus pandemic, Hurley said it feels good to perform again but, added, she’s cautious. “I’ve been doing this (standup) for 15 year,” Hurley said. “I’m never nervous … but this is so different.” Hurley gave high marks to the staff and the crowd for practicing social distancing and wearing masks. A full-time comedian and touring headliner in her own right, Hurley predicted she lost 70 gigs (or $50,000$60,000) because of the pandemic. Cash joked how he knew it was go-
CITY VOICES
HARVEY
I worry JANICE HARVEY
danger of falling far behind due to absences, apathy and sometimes familial dysfunction. How many o, Giana. You can’t practiced social distancing this come here to play summer? How many wear masks? because of the sickHow many will wear them this fall? ness.” I worry that some of my students I overheard these words in the will say “the hell with it” and wait backyard of my daughter’s home. a while to recover the credits they My 3-year-old granddaughter need instead of messing around Brynn was having an imaginary with masks and online lessons. phone call on a plastic Sesame Will they plan on returning next Street cellphone. She put the year? That high school diploma is phone down, pulled on her bike further and further out of reach helmet and peddled her bicycle with every month that passes. The down the driveway. I stood in the longer they’re away, the easier it is garage, stunned by the casual way she spoke, and by the insidious way to stay away. Back to school looms for all of coronavirus has been woven into us unlike any other summer of the lives of our children. In May, my 7-year-old grandson’s our lives. I feel for the elementary First Communion was postponed. school teachers. I worked in a It was supposed to fall on the same preschool classroom for 13 years. I know only too well the importance day as his great-grandmother’s of nurturing little ones, and what 87th birthday. We celebrated neither. The Mass was held eventu- that entails. They cry. Their noses run. They need hugs. I’m picturing ally in June, but only four guests per child were allowed to attend. I Circle Time and how completely incompatible it is with social dissat well behind Jack and his sister, tancing. I worry. mom and dad. In the photo taken I know I’m not alone in my anxias he approaches the altar, he and his parents are wearing masks. It’s eties, but knowing that isn’t necesnot exactly something you want to sarily comforting. Many teachers are sharing these worries, both the put in a frame. Jack’s usual sunny ones they have for their students’ disposition has dimmed a bit. He argues with his sister often and he well-being, and the ones they have for their own safety. I understand misses his friends from school. In that school must resume at some August, he will attend a different point, and that I, like so many school, one he wasn’t able to tour educators, are about to embark after finishing second grade from on a journey we will never forget, home. He cries easily. His parents though we will want to, certainly. try to shield him from the daily I know that 2020 will remain news broadcasts, but he hears nightmarish in my memory. What enough while eavesdropping on adults to worry about things none lasting effects will coronavirus have on our children? Just as I am of us really understand. As a grandparent, I worry about gnashing my teeth over these questions, I see a video of my 3-yearall four of my grandkids. A day old granddaughter Scarlett. She’s hasn’t passed without anxiety pushing a plastic shopping cart in and fear. Surely this can’t be good her living room with a live chicken for my health. What is it doing to in it. The chicken flies out and she theirs? As a teacher, I constantly giggles hysterically as she captures imagine my students and the it. A happier child can’t exist. toll this virus is taking on them Maybe the kids will be alright, psychologically and physically. I after all. work in a secondary alternative program with kids who are in
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FIRST PERSON
The Library of Disposable Art: Wheaties Boxes
DAVID MACPHERSON
share in 10 years. I don’t even notice it when I walk down the cereal aisle to do my weekly shopping. n the sports section of the The boxes for sale at That’s E great collectible shop, That’s Entertainment, I found a dozen seemed to be from the late ’90s. There is a Mark McGuire dinging Wheaties boxes for sale. Yes, 70 home runs. I think that Mark for three dollars, you could take didn’t eat his Wheaties to get to one of these bad boys home. They were all in fine shape, collapsed to that number of home runs. I think he used another type of breakfast form a card. There was no cereal of champions. with it. It was just the box. A few of them showed the work Wheaties started as an acof Leroy Neiman. He was a very cident in a lab, as most breakfast popular artist who painted athletes foods are. In 1921, some one in a very distinctive, splotchy way. spilled wheat bran mixture on to I remember being told how great a hot stove and flakes showed up. his art was. I never bought it. Here, Soon, Wheaties was for sale with there was a Neiman painting of that orange box. In the 1930s, the brand tied itself onto sports. It was Walter Paton. It looks like an athlete run though a paint store and the big name for sports and bran was smeared with samples. cereal. Eat your Wheaties. The That’s the thing with collectable Breakfast of Champions. Eat this and you will be the best intramural items, especially disposable items that are now told they have value: softball player that has ever been Either you think they are totally in right field. Boxes always had a popular, suc- cool or you wonder what the hell is wrong with the person who colcessful athlete on the front. It was lected this stuff. a big deal to get on the Wheaties Older boxes of Wheaties are box. Now, not so much. A 2014 Washington Post article stated that worth a good deal of money. And the ones from the ’40s and ’50s Wheaties has lost 80% of market
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have a very cool graphic quality. That’s a nice way of saying, they look pretty neat. But these newer ones. These ones are just cereal boxes without the thing that makes them worthwhile, the cereal. Was this someone who heard that Wheaties boxes were some coin, so hoarded them, dreaming of future wealth. Oh, I know we can’t pay the heating bill, but just you wait until I sell my Wheaties boxes, then we will be rolling in it. Maybe I am being too harsh. Maybe someone loved these things. These pieces of cardboard. Going through a memorabilia shop is an invitation to mystery. You never know what you will find. And you will never understand why someone went out of their way to save them all these years. It can drive a person crazy to think of it. It can make someone slightly peckish. Might I recommend a breakfast cereal? You will feel like a champion. David Macpherson is a poet who lives and works in the Worcester area.
CITY VOICES
WORCESTERIA
Peace, love and why the Black Lives Matter mural matters VICTOR D. INFANTE
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WORDS ON THE STREET: Even early Wednesday morning last week, the vibe was upbeat and energetic at the site of Worcester’s new Black Lives Matter street mural. It’s a staggering accomplishment, each individual letter a separate and unique piece of art, each its own statement with its own design. It’s beautiful, and feeling all the love and excitement as the project unfolded, it became increasingly difficult to understand why so many people are so resistant to the phrase. It’s relatively clear cut: We say “Black Lives Matter” because they are often treated as if they don’t. It’s not a declaration of ASHLEY GREEN superiority, which some of the belligerent fringe seems to think. Indeed, sometimes I wonder if the push-back to the phrase comes from another place: That they know black and brown lives are often treated as less important than white lives, and their defensiveness is a manifestation of guilt. That may be a bit of armchair psychoanalysis, but for the artists who created it, the mural is definitely an important statement. Artist Savonne Pickett, who created the “S” in the mural, says, “I do feel as if this mural had a revolutionary impact, just based on the amount of people who didn’t want to see it or who wanted to destroy it. It just goes to show that there is a lot of work to be done in the city alone. People get frustrated and upset at what they do not understand, and I believe if we had more art like this to uplift and restore people will probably start to educate themselves more and perhaps even see things from a different perspective. Colors carry different vibrations and frequencies, so just imagine the energy shift our city would have with art around every corner. There are many talented creatives around the city of Worcester, this event showcased a great handful of them, but trust me, there are many more out here. But at the end of the day, seeing smiles on other people’s faces is the most important thing of all.” For artist Coca Shahed, whose letter “C” was inspired by an Ankara dashiki print, the mural is important because “it’s a reminder and it will be on someone’s mind throughout their day. Whether they agree with it or not they’ll think about it. I’ve seen a few hundred comments from people who are so angry about this mural they’ve said they wanted to spit on it, paint over it, burnout on it, cause an accident on it … I think that’s important. We need to see people for who they really are. We need to know how our neighbors feel about black lives. How medical professionals, our children’s teachers, local business owners, politicians, all feel about black lives. That way we can recognize where and who the issue is and conduct business accordingly. Put our health, wealth and trust in those who understand why we need this mural, this movement. Why do so many people have an issue with the art on the ground and not the art on the side of our beautiful buildings downtown?” But for artist William Thompson, who worked on the letter “A,” the importance of the mural is relatively straightforward: “First, ‘Unity,’” he says. “Second, ‘Agapē’ (God’s love), and third, the fact that the entire community is being called on to perpetuate love, peace and understanding for one another.” That’s a sentiment that’s as hard to argue with now as it was in the ’60s, although judging from the Facebook comments — just, like, all the Facebook comments — we still have a long way to go.
COVER STORY
Coronavirus leaves restaurant workers in limbo H SARAH CONNELL SANDERS
ave you noticed your favorite server’s saintlike patience is waning? A mask may help to conceal her imminent discomfort, but rest assured, her job is not what it used to be. Krysta Kowal jokes that at least she only has to worry about doing half of her makeup before heading off to work at Crust Artisan Bakeshop on Main Street in Worcester. Kowal praised owner Alexis Kelleher for, “staying very proactive in keeping employees and customers safe throughout the pandemic.” It’s hard for her to abandon the practice of “greeting customers with a bright smiling face first thing in the morning.” Then again, hospitality looks quite different in 2020. “Now, we simply leave their precious orders of coffee and pastries on the table and wave to
Server Alex Massar works at Via Italian Table.
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them from afar,” Kowal lamented, adding, “Wearing a mask for hours on end can feel a bit stifling, but morally I know it’s the right thing to do and I wouldn’t consider not wearing one for a second.” She still encounters customers from time to time who refuse to wear a mask, which she finds frustrating. Kowal does her best to gently remind them, “I’m wearing a mask for your safety, please be considerate and do the same for me and my coworkers.” In all of her years working in the food and bev-
erage industry, she never imagined having to negotiate face coverings with guests. Kelleher opted to increase the size of Crust’s staff after putting a safe remote ordering system in place. She is pleased to report that business has remained consistent despite restrictions. “We are so grateful to our customers and our team for keeping us going over the last few months,” she said. Kelleher acknowledged that while times are frightening, she has found it fascinating to watch her fellow business owners adapt and shift to the circumstances. For Kowal, the biggest changes have come with contactless pickup. “We highly recommend everyone order online,” she said, “That way, no cash is being exchanged.” Kelleher’s employees sanitize the pickup table out front frequently throughout the day — Kowal says she does not mind the added side work one bit if it means ensuring public safety.
A new job description Restaurant workers face a host of challenges beyond just the risk of infection. In addition to added sanitation duties and health protocols, servers find themselves forced to negotiate with guests about the merits of mask-wearing and social distancing. Meanwhile, many low-wage employees in the hospitality industry have taken a pay cut since returning to work. Owners are struggling to re-engage valued team members and although outdoor dining has brought brief summer salvation for some, coronavirus remains an ill wind that blows no good. Many restaurant workers have relied on compensation through the Paycheck Protection Program. PPP made way for low-interest private loans of 2.5 times the payroll costs for a small business, with some constraints attached. For instance, PPP recipients are required to maintain their staff and payroll to stay eligible for maximum forgiveness. One exemption was for borrowers whose workers declined to be
rehired. Such a technicality led to particular confusion for those whose responsibilities had shifted drastically and no longer fell in line with their original position. Imagine, for example, a host now tasked with monitoring and disinfecting the restrooms. The role of the host typically includes answering phones, assigning tables to servers and seating guests — not facilities and maintenance or policing customers. In the case outlined here, the host could claim not to have been offered his or her original position, thereby disqualifying the restaurant from counting that staff member’s earnings toward PPP. Despite obstacles, PPP changed the game for an enormous number of hospitality workers. One U.S. Small Business Administration report outlining approvals through June 30, found that 73% of estimated small business payroll in Massachusetts had been covered by PPP loans. In total, 113,000 loans were awarded across the state, with a net total of $14,329,027,191. The deadline to apply for a PPP loan has been extended to Aug. 8.
COVER STORY
Diner Victoria Delano is served a meal by Domenic Brindisi at The Fix. RICK CINCLAIR
Others turned to unemployment assistance which dispensed approximately half of one’s average weekly wage up to $823 — again, raising the question of income inconsistencies in the service industry. Receiving unemployment also allowed for a $600 per week federal unemployment benefit through July 31. Combined, these rates frequently surpassed a restaurant worker’s typical earnings. Jenny Pacillo was the winner of Worcester Magazine’s “Best Server” distinction in 2019. This year, she applied for unemployment assistance during the coronavirus crisis. “I was lucky and didn’t run into any problems,” she shared, adding, “I’ve definitely heard some
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Restaurants that took advantage of PPP to rehire staff members were required to maintain equal levels of pay with no less than a 25% pay cut from pre-pandemic earnings by the end of June. Tipped restaurant workers found this calculation difficult. For one thing, average hourly earnings differ a great deal depending on the season. The absence of more than 30,000 college students renders summers relatively quiet in landlocked Worcester while a typical graduation season is slammed. Regardless, many restaurant workers were able to earn a regular income during the shutdown on account of PPP funding. General fearfulness won’t cut it
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nightmare stories from friends in the service industry, so I’m very thankful.” Pacillo was approved for $160 a week after taxes. “The added stimulus has been a huge relief for us,” she said, “I’m a little worried about it ending, but it’s not like there has been anything to really spend money on so I’ve been saving like crazy.” Pacillo remains grateful to live in the state of Massachusetts where she feels precautions are being taken seriously. Worcester server Tora White’s experience with unemployment assistance was not without its challenges. “Applying was pretty simple,
Workers whose employers have shut down or drastically reduced their hours are permitted to collect unemployment benefits for 39 weeks out of this year. If restaurant employees refuse to accept shifts in favor of collecting unemployment, they will likely lose the benefits. According to the Massachusetts Department of Unemployment Assistance, “An employee who leaves work because of a fear of being exposed to COVID-19 will need to demonstrate, among other things, that such fear was reasonable in the circumstances.” By these standards, general fearfulness of the virus is
Server Melissa Lambert clears a table at Via Italian Table.
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RICK CINCLAIR
but I had some problems,” she said, “I had filed in the past after working for a big chain restaurant. Apparently, that case was left open.” To mitigate the hiccup, White had to apply for a callback and endure a two-week holding period before pursuing her retroactive check. “I waited a month and a half for the retro check,” she said. Now, she is working 10 hours per week and collecting partial unemployment, but she wonders how long the supports will last.
not an acceptable reason for refusing work. As for the $600 benefit, the U.S. Senate is set to consider the HEROES Act approved in May by the House of Representatives. If passed, the HEROES Act would extend the weekly payments through Jan. 31. The future of restaurants The circumstances of coronavirus have highlighted blatant impacts of income inequality in American workplaces. According to the Bureau of Labor and Statistics,
COVER STORY
Above, Krysta Kowal preps a coffee order at Crust Artisan Bakeshop. Below, items prepped for a farmers market that would typically be placed on a display are now individually wrapped at Crust Artisan Bakeshop due to COVID-19 precautions. PHOTOS/ASHLEY GREEN
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surviving the projected closings. Restaurants and food service jobs account for 10% of employment in the state, according to the Massachusetts Restaurant Association. The MRA reports, “Every dollar spent in Massachusetts restaurants generates an additional $.95 in sales for the state economy and every million spent generates 21.5 jobs.� What are we to do without our restaurants? Successful owners are considering the structural shifts necessary to move forward. They are reckoning with the fact that going back to the way things worked in February 2020 all but guarantees failure. Since then, many restaurant owners have found themselves doing things they said they would never do. Take-out menus. Off-concept
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jobs in food services and drinking places are down by 3.1 million since February. That figure takes into account May and June, during which time employment in food services and drinking places rose by 1.5 million. Restaurant workers were already perceived as a transient group before the pandemic. Now, they are stuck in a state of constant uncertainty. The Restaurant and Accommodations sector has historically maintained a very high turnover rate, averaging 74.9% in 2018. According to the most recent labor turnover survey data from BLS, Leisure and Hospitality workers continued to express the highest turnover rates of any profession in April and May of 2020. Then, there is the question of
COVER STORY
dishes to elevate sales. Growler fills. Is it selling your soul if it means survival? Hardly. Outdoor dining is holding some eateries over for the short term; however, running food longer distances creates a demand for more staff while generating less revenue because of limited capacity. Not to mention, investing in tents and jersey barriers is a gamble if a vaccine allows us to re-enter dining rooms soon. Jonathan Demoga, chef-owner
kiosks are already prevalent in the fast-food business — soon these automated ordering stations will become touch-free and perhaps someday they’ll even take our temperatures. The pandemic has likewise propelled the efficiency of online ordering and delivery, negating many of the responsibilities once held by servers. One Japanese sushi chain, Kura Sushi, announced last week they will select tuna cuts using Artificial Intelligence as opposed
Servers Melissa Lambert, left, and Alex Massar work at Via Italian Table.
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RICK CINCLAIR
of MamaRoux Food Trailer, is no stranger to patios and beer gardens, but he warns it’s no silver bullet. “I see lots of businesses are spending money they don’t have for outdoor dining that ends up resembling a high school graduation party,” he said. His creative Gulf Coast cuisine is uniquely suited to alfresco accommodations, unlike many fellow business owners. In addition, Demoga is grateful not to carry the burden of rent, utilities and staff. MamaRoux maintains a “safety first” ethos. Demoga refuses to take any risks. “I was the first place in Worcester to voluntarily shut down operations back in March,” he explained. At the time, he had high hopes for the summer months. “Now, with cases rising back up again, I’m not sure about anything,” he said. Some people are wondering whether humans will continue to be the dominant workforce in the restaurant industry. Efficiency
to a chef. At this rate, humans may soon serve to augment the work of machines in restaurants rather than performing the physically and cognitively demanding tasks they tended to previously. Independent restaurants are not becoming extinct, but they are certainly feeling pressure to transform their respective business models. Without a vaccine, the hospitality industry cannot return to the way things were. And with a vaccine, some of our favorite Worcester restaurants still won’t reopen. Put simply, dining is destined to change. As for the return of your favorite server’s radiance, there are a few small adjustments you can make as a guest. Be patient and kind. Wear a mask without question. Tip well. Agree to pay more for your meal to account for the rising cost of food and labor. And, most of all: take into consideration what makes the people around you feel safe.
CITY LIFE If you are an artist, or know of a local artist, email WMeditor@gatehousemedia.com. Fair warning, in order to publish your work, you’ll need to provide a small bio and high resolution digital copies of some of your art. We reserve the right to choose what will run, based on resolution and what will reproduce best on newsprint.
ARTIST SPOTLIGHT
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Thacher Street Studios is the name of Molly Randell ’s “side gig” started in her Boston North End neighborhood. She grew up in Paxton, attended Wachusett Regional High School and went on to graduate from Wentworth Institute of Technology with a bachelor’s degree in Interior Design. Outside of her design career in her spare time, she enjoys painting large and small abstracts and commissioned home/building portrait watercolors. To see more of her work, you can follow her on Instagram at @thacherstreetstudios or check out her website, www.thacherstreetstudios.com!
CITY LIFE
LIFESTYLE
Camping brings comfort to travelers with Coronavirus unease SARAH CONNELL SANDERS
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y husband grew up summering on the outer Cape in the kind of charming cottages that merit fullpage spreads in Better Homes and Gardens. I, by contrast, blossomed into adolescence pedaling my dirty bare feet across RV parks on the other side of the bay. He played paddle ball and cutthroat games of Balderdash by the seaside. I wreaked havoc at Scussett Beach with a ragtag gang of kids I met while making prank calls at the snack shack payphone. Trust me when I tell you — both of our experiences proved formative. We each hold dear memories of our respective summertimes in our hearts and enjoy sharing the stories with one another. Nonetheless, you can see how settling on a comfortable vacation for the two of us as adults can sometimes be difficult. After much chatter and a half dozen family Zoom sessions about
appropriate travel protocol during a pandemic, we decided to pitch a tent near the beach and hope for a dry week. I knew seven days in the untamed wilderness was ambitious, but I figured if worse came to worse, we could always drive home. Plus, my husband’s family rented an exquisite home nearby with a garage where we might seek refuge in a monsoon. I could tell this summer was going to be a departure for him when he grew out his beard and began carrying a Leatherman in preparation for our trip. We weren’t the only ones hastening for the great outdoors. Forbes reported that camping reservations on sites like Pitchup had jumped 350%. When we checked into the North of Highland Camping Area, they told us 2020 was their busiest summer in history. I could understand why. Spending time outside is one of the easiest ways to circumvent the virus while maintaining social distance. I sensed a good omen when the masked attendant highlighted site #203 on our map.
I wear a locket around my neck engraved with the digits “203.” The number represents my freshman dorm room assignment, my very first classroom and the first apartment I shared with my now-husband. It’s more than just a lucky number — 203 is the universe’s way of telling me something wonderful is on the horizon. We ate scrambled eggs over an open flame. We fell asleep under the stars. We walked down a sandy path to Head of the Meadow Beach and rode the waves. One day we even saw a whale. I felt like a young romantic straight out of Wes Anderson’s “Moonrise Kingdom.” Nearly everyone has been deprived of rich sensory experiences over the last few months. Post-isolation brought the blissedout sunkissed energy I hungered for. Forgive me, but peeing behind a tree even became a thrilling part of our new way of life. I had an easy time appreciating simple pleasures in nature. The smell of pine needles on the salty breeze
delivered spirited memories of hiking down the jetty with my grandpa at dawn, sunscreen and sweat dripping from our noses. As the week pressed on, I was surprised by my sense of childlike discovery — no doubt the result of years spent thumping carefree through the poison ivy, my hair unbrushed and sticky with remnants of roasted marshmallows. For the first time since March, I felt at ease.
I should note that my husband turned out to be the most enthusiastic outdoorsman of them all. I think he was sort of sad when it came time to break camp. The moment we got home, he set up the tent in our backyard to let it “dry out.” I suspect he might sleep there tonight. Fresh air can be highly addictive.
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LISTEN UP
The Pathetics ‘Keep It Classy’ with punk throwback VICTOR D. INFANTE
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here was a day,” sings Pathetics vocalist Dave Standberg on the song “No Such Day.” “You could turn on the radio/and then they would play/a song only me and my friends would know/the deejay would play/ the Damned, the Clash and the Ramones/when you could hear/three songs in six minutes or so.” The point of that little jaunt down the lane of punk rock nostalgia is that there’s “no such thing as punk rock radio.” And it’s true. Sure, an occasional Clash song might make its way into an alternative rock or (shudder) classic rock mix — at least “Rock the Casbah”or “Should I Stay or Should I Go” — but it’s actually kind of rare to turn on the radio and hear the punk icons. You have to turn to satellite radio shows for that. The music is iconic, and it has no place on commercial radio. That
seems wrong, somehow. That’s the sort of woolgathering that goes on in an aging punk rocker’s head when he listens to the Pathetics’ recent album, “Keep it Classy.” It’s an almost pure exercise in punk rock nostalgia, hearkening back to the the sounds of the late ’70s and early ’80s punk, when the music was fast, simple, often sloppily played and magnetic in its gleeful, devil-may-care abandon. Indeed, “Keep It Classy” is such a throwback, it stands out against the backdrop of dour, moribund rock that’s often practiced today. The album is filled with a strangely lovable array of losers, presented with a sort of giddy affection. “Welfare” presents a ridiculous picture of welfare fraud that’s so over-the-top it’s hilarious. “Have Another Beer” presents
an escalating state of intoxication, and “I’m a Bum” gives its downon-his-luck protagonist a retort to well-to-do critics: “You know you want to be me/because your life is so
depressing.” The band keeps each song tight and relatively low-fuss — there are toe-tapping bass lines from Rich Lorion, a crash of drums from a Jeff Staltare and a brisk guitar line from Jim Bain, but what really drives this album is the sense of joyful mania, a wild-eyed glee that takes a song like “Donna’s in Love Daddy-O” — a sort of spiritual prequel to the Ramones’ “ Sheena Is a Punkrocker” — and gives what could be sugary a sort of dangerous undertow. It’s also the quality that takes a song like “Psycho Life” — much in the same vein as Talking Heads’ “Psycho Killer” — and makes it strangely charming. Ultimately, though, the album never really forgets that its protagonists are … well … pathetic. “My Head Hurts” has the persona paying a price for
a soul-crushing dead-end job. “My Drinking Problem” finds its persona defiant in his vices — “My drinking/my drinking/is only a problem for you.” “Consolation Prize” tells the tale of drunken, after-the-show hook-ups where no one involved is a winner. It’s raw, politically incorrect rock ‘n’ roll, both self-effacing and biting. If you’re a fan of the era the music’s echoing, it’s all familiar and welcome. Otherwise, it might need to be approached with a sort of open mind and sense of humor. Without the latter, a song such as the album closer “Stacy’s Got an STD” might be a bit jarring for younger sensibilities. It’s utterly hilarious, though, and make no mistake, the persona takes the last and best shot at himself in the end. This album may present a parade of lovable losers — to a qualified degree of “lovable” — but ultimately, its sense of joy and abandon make it an undeniable winner.
CITY LIFE
TABLE HOPPIN’
Boxed meals available for picnics at Tower Hill BARBARA M. HOULE
location at 291 Turnpike Road, Westboro, earlier this month. The company posted on Facebook: ood to know: A boxed meal prepared by the Farmer and “This isn’t goodbye, it’s see you on the Fork Café at Tower Hill down the road again.” Peter D’Amelio, NYAJ chairman Botanic Garden in Boylston and CEO in an email wrote, “It was can be added to your reserved a pleasure to serve you in Westborvisit to Tower Hill on weekends or a ough, and we look forward to seeing Thursday night during July. Boxed meals must be pre-ordered you again soon in Waltham!” FYI: The Waltham restaurant is at 70 during online checkout for admisMarket Place Drive, Waltham. sion tickets to Tower Hill. The deadline for ordering a boxed meal is ***** 10 a.m. Saturday and Sunday; 3 p.m. The Jenkins Inn, 7 West St., Thursday. Meals will be available for Barre, this month ended “Desserts pick up at the visitor reception desk to Go,” reopening its restaurant on between noon to 2 p.m. Saturday Fridays and Saturdays. and Sunday; 4:45-6:30 p.m. Thursday Visit www.jenkinsinn.com, or call evenings. Standard café services (978) 355-6444 for more information at Tower Hill remain closed until about hours and menu. Send email further notice. to jenkinsinnbarre@gmail.com. Visitors can enjoy food on the out“Thank You” to everyone who door patio or picnic on the spacious supported the “Desserts to Go run grounds. The public is reminded that during this pandemic” is the message Tower Hill Botanic Garden in Boylston is now open, with restrictions, and visitors can in response to recommendations from owners. order a boxed meal online prepared by Tower Hill’s Farmer and the Fork Café, which from public health officials and to fais managed by Peppers Artful Events in Northboro. cilitate social distancing, Tower Hill Blueberry dessert SABRINA GODIN limits the number of members and If you like recipes with blueberguests allowed on the property and ries, then try this traditional New For topping: In a medium bowl, a liquor license and customers can wine and limited snacks will also be requires all visitors to wear a mask at England Blueberry Buckle. It’s a cream the butter, sugar, flour and enjoy drinks with their food at covavailable for purchase. “all times” during their visit. home-style recipe that doesn’t take cinnamon until well blended and ered picnic tables, said Camden. The Explore the village gardens, take Peppers Artful Events in North- long to prepare. crumbly. Sprinkle the topping over menu is posted on Facebook; call a horse-drawn wagon ride and enjoy boro manages Farmer and the Fork BLUEBERRY BUCKLE the batter. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes. (978) 355-6715 for take-out orders. period music. Café. The catering company’s team Batter: Serve warm with whipped cream, if Customer favorites not only is following all CDC and local guide¼ cup (½ stick) butter desired. Makes 9 servings. include fried clams, but also grilled Adult milkshake lines, according to owners John and ¾ cup sugar salmon and hot and cold lobster recipe Susan Lawrence. Team members 1 large egg rolls, each with a quarter pound of High Tides gets Yankee Spirits, with locations in wear gloves and face masks, regularly ½ cup milk lobster meat, said Camden. The rolls Sturbridge, Attleboro, Norwood and shout-out for disinfect and practice social distanc2 cups all-purpose flour are toasted and come with fries and Swansea, shares an adult milking when preparing all meals. 2 teaspoons baking powder fried clams coleslaw. shake recipe made with Screwball Visit www.towerhillbg.org for ad¼ teaspoon salt In the July 19 edition of the SunHigh Tides Seafood Restaurant is Peanut Butter Whiskey. The drink mission details and the Farmer and 2 cups fresh blueberries day Telegram I wrote a story about about three miles from Barre Comis described as decadent with the the Fork’s boxed meal menu. Guide1 to 2 spoonfuls all-purpose flour fried clams and local places where to mon, according to Camden. perfect amount of peanut butter and lines and new safety protocols also Topping: get them. chocolate blended with vanilla ice are on the website. Note: The main ¼ cup (½ stick) soft butter A reader later sent a note about a ‘An Evening’ at Old cream. entry ramp to the Visitor Center is ½ cup sugar place he thought worth a mention. The recipe: In a blender, add ¼ Sturbridge Village closed for construction. Entry to 1/3 cup all-purpose flour High Tides Seafood Restaucup milk, 4 cups frozen ice cream, Old Sturbridge Village has the garden and access to the Visitor ½ teaspoon cinnamon rant, 2291 West St., Barre, offers a 2 tablespoons peanut butter, 2 scheduled an “Evening at the VilCenter is through the Secret Garden. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. varied menu of deep-fried and baked tablespoons chocolate syrup and lage” from 4 to 7 p.m. July 24. A map of the construction area and Grease and flour a 9-inch square pan. dishes. It’s a small place and only 4 ounces Screwball Peanut ButPre-registration is required. Visit temporary entrance is included on For batter: In a large bowl and has outdoor seating and take-out ter Whiskey. Blend until smooth. the website. with an electric mixer, cream the since COVID-19, according to Annie www.osv.org for information. Cost: Add more milk, if needed. Rim two $10 per person; OSV member, $8. Up Enjoy the outdoors, good food and butter and sugar. Add the egg and Camden, who manages the business hurricane or milkshake glasses with to three children per adult get free a great scenic view. beat thoroughly. Stir in the milk. In for owner/cook John Flagg. The peanut butter and drizzle chocolate admission. There is a $5 charge for a separate bowl, mix together the restaurant was originally a seasonal syrup in each. Pour milkshake into each additional child. flour, baking powder and salt. Add dairy bar when it opened Nov. 10 Not Your Average glasses. Top with whipped cream and Note: Discounts that apply to to the batter, mixing well. In a small four years ago. It’s now a year-round Joe’s closes chopped peanuts, if desired. standard daytime admission do not bowl, toss the blueberries with the business that doesn’t any longer Westboro location apply to Evening at the Village. serve ice cream. If you have a tidbit for the column, The Milton-based restaurant chain flour, then add them to the batter Visitors may bring a picnic to and stir to blend. Spread the batter Hours are noon to 8 p.m. Thursday call (508) 868-5282. Send email to Not Your Average Joe’s closed its enjoy on the Village Common. Beer, in the prepared pan. through Monday. The restaurant has bhoulefood@gmail.com.
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CITY LIFE
FILM
Crass marketing taints ‘30 Rock’ reunion JIM KEOGH
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atching last week’s “30 Rock” special was like attending a disillusioning class reunion. Yeah, everybody is older around the edges, though that’s to be expected. And time has done nothing to dim my raging crush on Tina Fey. But the premise of the show — using “30 Rock” to promote NBC’s slate of new programming to potential advertisers; known as an “upfront” — was a terrific letdown. An upfront is traditionally a live event where advertisers spend a day being courted by network executives and stars and shown previews of the season’s upcoming shows. The hope is they’ll like what they see and buy ad time on the spot. Last week’s “30 Rock” was a virtual upfront, draping endless promos around a story about Fey’s character
Tina Fey was joined by other cast members for the “30 Rock” special on NBC. FILE PHOTO
of Liz Lemon angling to reboot her sketch-comedy show TGS. For a time, it was fun to watch her getting the band back together — even if her
outreach was via ever tiresome Zoom — and to watch Liz and team turn the episode’s obvious purpose on its ear. They shilled for NBC like their careers still depended on it, yet as always they found ways to poke needles into the mothership and lampoon the ridiculous ritual of the upfront. My favorite line was Jack Donaghy’s (Alec Baldwin) fawning admission that ad buyers are among the world’s most physically attractive people. Unfortunately, not even a sitcom as strong as “30 Rock” could overcome the night’s crassness. My lack of interest in network television fed my ambivalence. Where is network TV’s equivalent of “Perry Mason,” “Fleabag” or “Chernobyl”? Of all the promos aired during the “30 Rock” episode, the only one that grabbed me was for “The Office,” which will stream on NBC’s Peacock service beginning in January. “The Office” finished its run seven years ago.
It’s a shame, because I’d been looking forward to reconnecting with the “30 Rock” cast. I was hoping for something more along the lines of what Larry David did when he turned a “Seinfeld” reunion into a story arc on “Curb Your Enthusiasm.” Like “30 Rock,” Jerry, George, Elaine and Kramer’s gathering was built on a winking self-awareness that reunions are inherently disappointing, except “Curb” wasn’t saddled with promotional commitments. Cantankerous Larry would never have agreed to such an arrangement anyway. ***** If you have Showtime, it’s worth your while to check out the documentary “Showbiz Kids,” directed by Alex Winter of “Bill and Ted’s Excellent Adventure” fame. The film is an unblinking look at the trajectories of child stars, who race into the film industry as adorable tykes and too often limp away
once their cuteness and utility are gone. Winter has settled on some excellent subjects to decode the child-actor experience, including Henry Thomas (“E.T.”), Mara Wilson (“Matilda”), Wil Wheaton (“Stand By Me”) and Evan Rachel Wood (“Thirteen”) — all of them insightful, wise, and, at least outwardly, and hopefully, pretty well adjusted. My favorites are Wheaton and Wilson, who wonderfully articulate the phenomenon-to-castoff journey with an eloquence that was already emerging in their childhood performances. Wheaton took a public beating for playing the unpopular character of Wesley Crusher on “Star Trek: The Next Generation” and when he turned 18 he realized, “I don’t have to do this anymore.” He’s gone on to a good life as a writer, entrepreneur, and occasional performer. His is a happy ending within a demographic not known for them.
NEW ON DVD
‘Marriage Story’ shows darkness, hope in divorce
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KATIE FORAN - MCHALE TRIBUNE NEWS SERVICE
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n amicable divorce turns ugly in the top new DVD releases for the week of July 21. “Marriage Story”: We open with renowned actress Nicole Barber (Scarlett Johansson) and renowned director Charlie Barber (Adam Driver) sharing touching monologues about why they love each other through the intimate moments of their decade-long relationship. The catch? They’re in mediation, preparing to end their marriage, which quickly goes awry. The pair have dedicated their lives to Charlie’s New York theater company, which Nicole has begun to resent, and she heads to Los Angeles to shoot a TV pilot. There, Nicole’s co-workers recommend a divorce lawyer, which quickly throws the couple and their 8-year-old son, Henry (Azhy Robertson), into an ugly custody battle. Divorce is an act of hope, says fierce-but-warm attorney Nora Fanshaw (Laura Dern). Charlie’s initial attorney, Bert Spitz (Alan Alda), might agree to some extent, but his ruthless eventual pick, Jay Marotta (Ray Liotta), is out for blood.
Writer-director Noah Baumbach builds rich, complicated relationships between the couple, their respective rapports with their son and Charlie’s place in Nicole’s family, through both light and seething dialogue. The film was nominated for six Academy Awards, with Dern winning for best supporting actress. It’s a touching portrait of a family whose foundation cracks, violently breaks and eventually begins to healthily scar. Come for the emotional journey, stay for the infectiously delightful performances by Julie Hagerty as Nicole’s impossibly charming mom, and the incomparable Dern (if you haven’t already, please do yourself a favor and watch the Gay Men’s Choir fantastic tribute performance to the icon at this year’s Independent Spirit Awards on YouTube). ALSO NEW ON DVD JULY 21 “Capone”: The infamous mob figure (Tom Hardy) faces the end of his life, suffering from dementia and reliving painful memories. “Castle Rock: The Complete Second Season”: The Steven King multiverse-set series combines the author’s popular works in a fictional Maine town.
“Curb Your Enthusiasm: Season 10”: The HBO cringe comedy series starring Larry David returns after a three-year break. “DeadTectives”: Reality TV ghost hunters encounter the real deal while shooting in Mexico. Stars Chris Geere, Tina Ivlev, David Newman and Jose Maria de Tavira. “Resistance”: During World War II, aspiring actor Marcel Mangel (Jesse Eisenberg), later legendary mime Marcel Marceau, becomes a figure in the French Resistance to rescue orphaned children. “SCOOB!”: In this computer-animated Scooby-Doo tale, the mysterysolving gang must thwart evil plans to sic a ghost dog onto the world. Features the voice talents of Will Forte, Gina Rodriguez, Zac Efron, Amanda Seyfried, Ken Jeong, Tracy Morgan and Mark Wahlberg. “Survive the Night”: A doctor (Bruce Willis) and his family are attacked by a pair of demented criminals holding them hostage. “The Room”: After moving into a new house, a couple (Olga Kurylenko and Kevin Janssens) encounter a magical room that grants unlimited wishes _ with a catch. “The Whistlers”: A literal mafia
whistleblower (Vlad Ivanov) uses a coded whistling language to help break a mobster out of prison in this Romanian comedy. In Romanian, English and Spanish. “You Don’t Nomi”: Documentary follows the history and production of the cult classic movie “Showgirls.”
OUT ON DIGITAL HD JULY 21 “Attraction 2: Invasion”: After a woman (Irina Starshenbaum) encounters extraterrestrial technology, she inherits deadly skills. In Russian and English. “The Grand Unified Theory of Howard Bloom”: Documentary follows ex-publicist to the stars Bloom, now an eccentric writer about evolutionary psychology. “Guest Artist”: A man (Thomas Macias) faces existential questions after meeting his hero, who has become a jaded playwright (Jeff Daniels) “The High Note”: A superstar singer (Tracee Ellis Ross) and her overwhelmed assistant (Dakota Johnson) face a decision that could change their lives forever. Look for it on DVD and Blu-ray Aug. 11. OUT ON DIGITAL HD JULY 24 “Days of the Whale”: A pair of
Scarlett Johansson and Adam Driver star in “Marriage Story.” NETFLIX
young graffiti artists paint over a gang threat and face dangerous consequences. Stars Valeria Castano Fajardo, Carlos Fonnegra and Julian Giraldo. In Spanish. “Helmut Newton: The Bad and the Beautiful”: Documentary follows legendary late photographer.
CITY LIFE
THE NEXT DRAFT
Bullish at first, Lancaster finally embracing hometown brewery Bull Spit Brewing Co. reopens on Kalon Farm MATTHEW TOTA
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Bull Spit Brewing Co. in Lancaster was lucky to nab Chris Fontaine to run its brewhouse. He started his brewing career at Lefty’s Brewing Co. in Greenfield, before moving on to become head brewer at Berkshire Brewing Co. MATTHEW TOTA
creative community hubs. They are family destinations, too. Bull Spit has been teaching Lancaster about breweries. And it’s a course that more cities and towns need to take. “We have found ourselves educating town officials, because they really didn’t know about breweries,” Higgins said. “They didn’t want a bar in the town, but bars are a completely different vibe and feel from breweries. Bars stay open until 2 a.m. There’s an atmosphere around taking shots and getting drunk. Here there’s a focus on family life. You’re here to eat food, hang out with your kids, and have a few beers.” To learn more about Bull Spit Brewing Co., its hours and available beers, visit bullspitbrewing.com.
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barrel-aging. “I don’t like to have one style,” Fontaine told me. “Over my career, I’ve brewed a lot of different beers. People ask me what my favorite type of beer is, but I don’t have one; it changes all the time.” And in the taproom — as rustic as you would imagine — general manager Becca Higgins has worked hard to foster a family-friendly atmosphere. The 80 or so mugs from Bull Spit’s mug club hang above the bar, a testament to the overwhelming support the brewery has received from the community. Often, I forget that so many cities and towns don’t know about the culture around today’s breweries. I assume every municipality embraces breweries and sees them as hardworking small businesses, enriching presences that take pride in their homes. They aren’t seedy bars, but
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ened its horns and charged forward anyway. The hope for Bull Spit now is to reintroduce itself to the town, because it closed last year just as it was starting to get some buzz. “Even though we opened last year, I don’t think people knew we were here,” said general manager Becca Higgins. Reopening amid a pandemic has been a struggle. But being on a farm, the brewery has used as much outdoor space as it can for tables. Kopley hopes to soon install massive gazebos built from silos. In Bull Spit’s seven-barrel brewhouse, head brewer Chris Fontaine has crafted a wonderfully varied lineup of beer to please most everyone, including a piney, resiny IPA that’s a welcome break from the ubiquitous hazy ones. The former head brewer at Berkshire Beer Co., he has canned eight different beers so far. Next up:
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humongous sculpture of a bull greets you upon arriving at the best-kept secret in Lancaster. Before the bovine, though, there’s a tiny country store stocked most notably with meat (I would leave with a hulking porterhouse) and still before that, the view of Kalon Farm’s undulating hills. Bull Spit Brewing Co. is the first brewery in Lancaster, often mistaken as a dry town. Yet in the year since the brewery opened, owner Keith Kopley has felt the need to tread lightly, even forgoing a grand opening. Kopley is by no means operating like a speakeasy, but he seems nervous that, at any moment, Lancaster could shutter him. He has good reason to be gun-shy. A short time after Kalon Farm installed its seven-barrel brewhouse and received the proper state and federal licenses for a brewery, Lancaster’s new building inspector demanded Kopley stop building his brewery. The inspector needed more time to review Kopley’s plans and wasn’t sure the brewery had the correct permits to open. The order came out of nowhere. And weeks of inaction turned into months. Meanwhile, Kopley — blindsided and losing money by the day — tried to fight the decision. He hired an attorney to argue Kalon Farm’s exemption from certain zoning and permitting requirements under state farming statutes, though he understood the need to comply with obvious safety and health codes. More than a year later, Kopley still doesn’t understand why the town stymied his brewery, especially since he already had a license for a winery and had been receiving one-day licenses to serve alcohol during large events at the farm. “We were serving and making alcohol before that. And now suddenly it’s an issue?” he said. A mortgage broker turned farmer, Kopley bought his first farm in 2009 in neighboring Ashburnham, naming it Kalon after the Greek word for beautiful. The farm grew to more than 150 acres, all devoted to raising
animals. He later dabbled in winemaking, opening the winery Hillside Cellars. Over the years, Kalon Farm has made a name for itself as a valued purveyor of farm-raised meats and local wine. The farm added the Lancaster property in 2014 — about 52 acres off a beautiful stretch of Route 117 — and opened a country store for its fresh meat and prepared foods. Around the same time, Kopley got approval to produce wine at the farm, 339 Seven Bridge Road, and built the tasting room that would eventually become Bull Spit’s taproom. Seeing the success of other farm breweries, including Stone Cow Brewery in Barre, Kopley believed a brewery was the logical next step for Kalon Farm, not only to create another revenue stream, but also to shine a light on the importance of farms and preserving farmland in Massachusetts. “With agritourism, the whole idea is to bring people to your farm, to see what you do, to enjoy and buy your products, and to try to get them to stay there a little bit,” he said. “We’ve done races and festivals. A brewery is a different way to be innovative and market your farm.” The fight with the town led Kopley to file a complaint with the state’s Ethics Commission against the building inspector, Tony Zahariadis. It turns out Zahariadis co-owns Black Sheep Tavern, a restaurant and bar in nearby Sterling, just a 10-minute drive from Kalon Farm. Kopley alleges that Zahariadis had a clear conflict of interest. And the complaint is still pending. Since filing the complaint, Kopley has worked with a different building inspector. And he has reached something of a fragile détente with the town concerning Bull Spit. He recently had his pouring permit approved, along with his hours of operation. When I visited Bull Spit last week, I got the feeling that the brewery has finally moved past last year’s drama. That grand opening still hasn’t been scheduled, but Bull Spit has sharp-
CITY LIFE
ADOPTION OPTION Welcome to Adoption Option, a partnership with the Worcester Animal Rescue League highlighting their adoptable pets. Check this space often to meet all of the great pets at WARL in need of homes.WARL is open seven days a week, noon-4 p.m., 139 Holden St. Check them out online at Worcesterarl.org, or call at (508) 853-0030.
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EAST DOUGLAS PHOTOGRAPHY
Meet Tigga, (again). Last autumn, a woman surrendered Tigga because
she was homeless. She described him as cuddly and friendly. He likes laser lights (chasing the light is a good way for him to lose weight). Tigga liked the family’s kids who were under 10 years old. He does not like other animals. He was adopted for a few months but was returned for not getting along with the roommate’s pet. It’s fortunate he came back because we discovered he’s diabetic and needs Lantus insulin twice a day, which is expensive. However, if he’s adopted by a diabetic person who uses Lantus or works in the medical field and can get Lantus, the cost is lowered considerably. Above all, Tigga must be adopted by someone experienced with feline diabetes, and he needs to see a veterinarian regularly. Tigga is a staff favorite; he loves people. His favorite things are walking with staff through the shelter and/or being carried so he can survey his domain from our arms. Tigga qualifies for our Senior for Senior Program.
GAMES
J O N E S I N’
“R-ationing” – it’s three for the price of one. By Matt Jones
Across 1 5 10 13 14 15 17 19 20 21 22 23 25 26 27 28 30 31
Fun By The Numbers Like puzzles? Then you’ll love sudoku. This mind-bending puzzle will have you hooked from the moment you square off, so sharpen your pencil and put your sudoku savvy to the test! Here’s How It Works: Sudoku puzzles are formatted as a 9x9 grid, broken down into nine 3x3 boxes. To solve sudoku, the numbers 1 through 9 must fill each row, column and box. Each number can appear only once in each row, column and box. You can figure out the order in which the numbers will appear by using the numeric clues already provided in the boxes. The more numbers you name, the easier it gets to solve the puzzle!
35 36 37 41
57 58 62 63 64 65 66 67
Last week's solution
©2020 Matt Jones (jonesincrosswords@gmail.com) Reference puzzle #998
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1 Psychiatric reference book, for short 2 French monarch 3 Like smaller dictionaries 4 Crystal-filled cavity 5 No longer fresh, as venison 6 Pie ___ mode 7 Igneous rock, once 8 Abrasive manicure substance 9 Monica’s brother on “Friends” 10 Chef Boyardee product that had to be renamed for a “Seinfeld” episode 11 Ballpark figure? 12 “Whose Line ...” comic Ryan 16 What some dryer sheets have 18 “Well ___!” (“Fancy that!”) 23 Feline wail 24 Cookie that released an eggshaped version for Easter 2019 25 Projections from a hub 26 Backyard pond fish 29 Tennis’s Agassi 30 Palm leaf 32 It does a hold-up job in the parking lot 33 Teensy 34 “Teletubbies” shout
38 Defeat 39 Chilean cash 40 “Pardon the Interruption” network 42 Glob or nod ending 43 “The Many Loves of ___ Gillis” 44 Vatican-related 45 Like some twists of fate 46 Pupil protector 50 Home of the Dolphins 51 Throw out 53 NATO alphabet vowel 55 Octagonal road sign 56 “Aw, fiddlesticks!” 59 Cause of conflict, maybe 60 Hang-out room 61 Abbr. after a telephone number
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52 54 55 56
Down
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44 47 48 49 50
“RuPaul’s ___ Race” Twitch streamer, often Ride around town Drink brand with a lizard logo San Antonio mission, with “the” Rescue team, briefly Pictures of surrealist Joan’s work? Fortnite company One way to sit by “And here’s to you, ___ Robinson ...” Arrange alphabetically Mountaineer’s vocalization Manzarek of The Doors Stereotypical person who might demand to speak to the manager of this puzzle End of Wikipedia’s URL Sound from a meadow “Hansel and Gretel” setting Villain who only wears his purple suspenders and “W” hat two days at a time? California city near Stockton Muralist Rivera “Won’t do it” Comedy duo of scientist Marie and singer Burl? It may be served in a spear Bonding words Sixth sense, supposedly Got up Baha ___ (“Who Let the Dogs Out” group) Element #5 Cruise destination Die maximum, usually Rapidly disappearing storage medium Actress Kendrick of the Quibi series “Dummy” Program again onto an antiquated computer storage format? Bank’s property claim Last letter in the Greek alphabet Rival of Visa or MC Dishonorable guy Intro show Budget allocation
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SR. BUSINESS DATA ANALYST (Worcester, MA) sought by UMass Memorial Medical Center, Inc. to lead and deploy data analyses, reports and quality improvement projects on behalf of the Managed Care Network and the Accountable Care Organization. Serve as project leader for Population Health analytic projects; manage and execute projects including development of project work plans, resources, timetables, costs and administrative reporting. Must have Master’s in Bus. Analytics or rel. Apply to Leigh M. Corl, HR Business Partner, UMass Memorial HR, HB-791, 55 Lake Ave. North, Worcester, MA 01655. No phone calls.
Where do I find such cool stuff and helpful services?
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Over 90,000 Readers! Call 888-254-3466 or email classifieds@gatehousemedia.com
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LAST CALL
Claudia Snell founder of “Women Worc” C laudia Snell launched her new website, “Women Worc,” with the philosophy of recognizing projects and events led by women across the community. The site’s tagline states, “Women in Worcester, MA are badass. — Yes. You. Even if (especially if) you don’t believe you are.” Snell hopes to grow a website about Worcester’s most tenacious women. If that speaks to you, please consider filling out a short form at www.womenworc.com about the accomplishments of you or your female friends. How did you end up in Worcester? My family moved here when I was in high school in 1985 and I then graduated from North in ’86. I got a job in The Galleria downtown. My friends and I would all work together and we had a joke that every place where we worked would go under. A store would hire one of us and then eventually bring the rest of us on staff. In reality, the stores all kept closing because the whole mall was failing. What is your current day job? I’ve been a web developer for twenty years.
I have such fond memories of the “Happy Time” section. I haven’t thought about that in years. Right? I was so frustrated. I was like, “We’ll just teach them about publishing themselves so they don’t have to wait around for a newspaper.” It was a similar circumstance where I said, “I can think of 15 of my friends alone that never get celebrated even though they are doing so many wonderful things. Why do they only cover the same people over and over?”
I’m certainly guilty of that. I think part of the problem is women aren’t conditioned to self promote. I get a lot of inquiries from men asking me to write articles about them, but it is extraordinarily rare to receive a request from a woman in my inbox. It’s sad. Yes. We’re working. We’re doing incredible things. Sometimes it seems like nobody notices. Take, for example, Tina Zlody, who is running the Worcester Public Market. She is also the co-founder and director of stART and has been doing stuff in this city for two decades — probably longer. You don’t talk about her. She brings 50,000 people in for an art festival every year and it’s because of people like her who laid the groundwork that the newer businesses have anything to stand on. When she started, Worcester really was a pit that no one wanted to be near. Nothing was going on. hard. I’ve had a series of blogs ever since like 2004 about Worcester. One of my pictures of Turtle Boy ended up on College Humor and got 20,000 hits overnight. I was like, “Really? That’s the thing you want to know about? Our stupid statue?”
it up a little and post it. I want to amplify the voices that often get drowned out. I’ve worked in media too, so I know how it works. Publishers go after what’s going to make the headlines clickable and the stories easy to write. Women tend to kind of shy away and run away because we’ve been taught not to brag. With this project, I’m asking women to brag about their friends. – Sarah Connell Sanders
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Who are you hoping to highlight in the future? Allison Hale runs a group called Nuance Networking for women. We get together once a month. She
runs Ladies Night Out Worcester at the Sprinkler Factory. She told me, “These women business owners are getting beat up by COVID; it’s terrible.” I thought, “Not only are they not getting covered by the media, but now they’re really getting hurt by the economy.” We decided to profile them. That’s why I pushed the site out faster than I would have under normal conditions. I just soft-launched last month. It started off with women simply filling in a form. I clean
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I think about that a lot. As a kid, I was ashamed to be from Worcester. Now, I’m so proud to have grown up here. Sometimes I wonder, “Could I just not see the vibrance before? Or was it missing altogether?” It’s a combination of things. Back when the perception of Worcester started becoming more positive, it was still really hard to gain traction. There were a lot of people like Tina who took so much flack. Trying to stay positive under those circumstances can be really
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Where did you get the idea for “Women Worc”? I noticed that a lot of women are doing a ton of stuff in Worcester, and this is going to sound awful, but the local media doesn’t really cover most of them. It’s always the same story over and over. Here’s the thing, I think the voices we do hear are great. But, I’m like, “You know there are more than five women in Worcester, right?” This has happened multiple times where I get mad about a thing and I turn that anger into a creative project. For example, when the Telegram killed off the “Happy Time” kid’s pages in the newspaper. I said, “It means the world to children to get printed and you just took their voice; that’s so horrible!” So, I got together with Darcy Schwartz of ArtReach and Jessica Lofgren Curtin, and we put together the Worcester Youth Publishing Project, a program at
DYLAN AZARI
ArtReach. That was another one of my rage projects.
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