The Word Ha Noi December 2011

December 2011

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Chuyên đề du lịch, ẩm thực The City in Your Hands

the talk

Chuyên Đề Du Lịch & Ẩm Thực Nhà xuất bản Lao Động 175 Giảng Võ, Hà Nội ĐT: + 84 4 3851 5380 / Fax: + 84 4 3851 5381 Chi nhánh phía Nam 85 Cách Mạng Tháng Tám, Q.1, TP. HCM ĐT: + 84 8 3839 0970 / Fax: + 84 8 3925 7205 Email: cn-nxbld@vnn.vn Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản Lê Huy Hòa Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Dương Vy Bảo Bìa: The Word - Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

Contents

December 2011

REGULARS

FEATURES

007 The Talk We’re just saying

Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản CN Cty CP TM-DV-QC-Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh 54/26 Nguyễn Cư Trinh, P. PNL, Q. 1, TP. HCM ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 / Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 Email: info@wordhcmc.com Website: www.wordhcmc.com

012 Ourman Men need empowering too

Văn Phòng Đại Diện Tại Hà Nội: Ngõ 93, Nhà 2C, Lý Nam Đế, Hoàn Kiếm ĐT: +84 4 3747 5589 / Fax: +84 4 3747 5598 Email: info@wordhanoi.com Website: www.wordhanoi.com

024 Overscene The where’s Wally of nightlife 034 Many Faces The RnB singer

© Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của Ấn phẩm The Word (Ho Chi Minh City và Ha Noi) của C.ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. Mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật sở hữu trí tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam. In tại Công Ty In Trần Phú 71-73-75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q.1, TP. HCM www.tranphuprint.com

052 Destination Saigon: the metropolis down south 060 Fashion Wrap up this winter

Giấy XNĐKKHXB của Cục XB số: 161-2011/CXB/155-07/LĐ ngày 02/03/2011 Quyết định xuất bản số 399 QĐCN-LĐ Nhà xuất bản Lao Động cấp ngày 25/10/2011 In xong và nộp lưu chiểu năm 2011.

062 Mystery Diner Not for vegetarians

The editorial and design of THE WORD HA NOI is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC Duong Vy Bao, General Director bao@wordhanoi.com bao@wordhcmc.com Editorial Ian Paynton, Deputy Chief Editor ian@wordhanoi.com David Stout, Deputy Editor david.stout@wordhanoi.com

028 Q&A Suzi Garner on life and death in Hanoi

Dominic Blewett, Staff Photographer dominic@wordhanoi.com Hoa Le, Staff Writer hoale@wordhanoi.com

Paolo Maling, Art Director paolo@wordhcmc.com

036 The Year That Was A look back at 2011

Nguyen Tan Loc, Layout Designer loc@wordhcmc.com Phi Nguyen Thuy Linh, Intern linh@wordhanoi.com Nguyen Bao Ngoc, Photo Intern

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056 The Last Patch Farmland that My Dinh forgot

TRIVIA BUFF ANSWERS

Advertising Chau Giang, Sales & Office Manager giang@wordhanoi.com

See p.108 for the original puzzle

Huynh Quang Hau, Advert Designer artwork@wordhcmc.com Nguyen Thuc Doan Hien, Advert Designer hien@wordhcmc.com Distribution & Subscriptions hai@wordhanoi.com For advertising enquiries please call Giang on +84 93464 0668 or Bao on +84 902 361561 The Word would like to thank Douglas Pyper, Debbie Clare, Tuan Nguyen, Tara Seshan, Shahir Lubin, Victoria Boggiano, Bookworm and bacon sandwiches for their contribution to this issue

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106 The Final Say Hanging up the backpack

030 Life in the Middle 24 hours on a changing Ta Hien

Kaitlin Rees, Staff Writer kaitlin@wordhanoi.com

Administration Le Dang Phuong Trang, Chief Accountant accountant@wordhcmc.com

063 Street Snacker How duck noodle soup came to be

034

Aaron Joel Santos, Photo Editor aaron@wordhanoi.com

Nick Ross, Chief Editor and Deputy Director editor@wordhanoi.com

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1) His picture is in the newspaper) 2) The Communists 3) Hershey, Pennsylvania 4) 64 5) 55 6) Eagle 7) David Ginola 8) Red Adair 9) Plum 10) A King 11) Nigel Lawson 12) Eternal 13) San Francisco 14) Shayne Ward 15) 1994 16) Mexico 17) Leading Top Scorer for Arsenal 18) The Fontanelle 19) Washington, US 20) Roy Orbison 21) Absail 22) A Helicoptor 23) Ready Steady Go 24) All Qualified Pilots 25) 2x 761mph is speed of sound

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HO CHI MINH CITY 096 From Japan With Love Sketch executive editor talks Saigon 098 Myster Diner Cloaked reviews from down south 101 Live in Saigon Band interviews and what’s happening down south

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The Word Ha Noi is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners.

2 | The Word December 2011

© The Word - Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

The Word December 2011 | 3

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tweets of the month THE PRELUDE December 2011

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Chuyên đề du lịch, ẩm thực The City in Your Hands

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Front Cover Design by The Word - DH Advertising.

Photos by Aaron Joel Santos

LOUIS ARMSTRONG ONCE CROONED in his gravelly rasp of a voice that ‘we have all the time in the world’.

In reality, it doesn’t always feel like that — 2011 being a case in point. The days, weeks, months and meals of the past year have quickly disappeared, and now we find ourselves on the cusp of Christmas and New Year, ready to do it all over again. Next thing will be Tet. Then summer. Then Christmas.

Surely it moves faster here than anywhere else?

If 2011 in Hanoi is to be remembered for anything, it’s change. The continued expansion and evolution of the capital went into overdrive these past 12 months, earmarked by the inevitable slew of multiple, shiny, new high-rises in My Dinh — there is one patch of farmland remaining, though, as we highlight in the following pages — and the constant drilling of the jackhammer on every street in every district.

Sometimes we wish it would just relax. It may not be “the city that never sleeps”, but that’s because it needs all the energy it can get to tackle the next day. Onwards and upwards.

The social landscape also shifted. Hanoi today is different from the Hanoi of this time last year. The vast amounts of new bars, restaurants and dancing spots — of course added to the high turnover of foreign faces — means that Hanoi come nighttime is

almost unrecognisable. Bars and restaurants open and two months later pull the shutters down permanently. The same can be said for the rise and fall of businesses and the arrival and departure friends. It’s a dynamic place, for better or for worse, and requires constant adaptation from its residents.

We hope 2011 treated you well and that you enjoyed reading these pages. We look forward to returning bright-eyed and with slightly wider waistlines in 2012, which among other big events — i.e the Olympic Games in London — will be the year that becomes famous for a completely fresh looking Word Ha Noi. Merry Christmas, all. Go get involved. In the words of Prince, make sure you ‘party like it’s 1999’ this New Year's Eve, because according to the Mayans there won’t be another one.

And don’t forget to write to us to say what you would like done differently with this publication in the New Year: editor@wordhanoi.com.

philip_arthur Arriba! received a "Food: 9" rating by @WordVietnam's Mystery Diner. I can no longer take that section of the magazine seriously.

23 Nov. ourman Currently every day is more perfect than the last. How much longer can this go on? #hanoi 19 Nov. dominicblewett Please, you cannot call me 'Mr Foreigner' any more. I have lived here longer than many of your children. #Hanoi #Vietnam 18 Nov. CAMA_Vietnam #cama has contacts looking for #musicians and #bands (esp. bassists and singing guitarists) in #hanoi for jams and gigs. DM us if u keen 18 Nov. upstairs4thinkn RT @CAMA_Vietnam: The skinny on GO!GO!JAPAN! now online at @WordVietnam — get ready #Hanoi! > tinyurl.com/6otpjru 16 Nov. kokismith Kaukab Jhumra Smith You called it a bash, @wordvietnam, but i didn't expect it to end with a bloody toe.

Great party with sumptuous views of #Hanoi!

Thx again!

11 Nov.

INBOX DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, PLEASE EMAIL US AT NICK@WORDHANOI.COM OR IAN@WORDHANOI.COM

RESPONSIBLE THEFT THANKS FOR THE PREP TALK I’m moving to Hanoi in January and after reading the skateboarding feature Grinding Out A Scene (Sanity in the City – October 2011) I am looking forward to skating in the Old Quarter. Thanks for a good read. — Kai

4 | The Word December 2011

I just had to take one of last month’s magazines away with me from the coffee shop. Mainly because of the really interesting article on the environment and how many Vietnamese animals are in danger. But it was a long read so I had to take it away. Hope you don’t mind. — Yvonne

GOT IT COVERED Your covers have been better recently.

More conceptual. I liked last month’s Green Breakthrough (November 2011) and especially enjoyed the cover of Sanity in the City (October 2011). All Vietnamese that see it have asked how you managed to photograph a guy sat on a stall in the middle of a busy road. I think they think you used Photoshop. — Greg

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the big

FIVE

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Things to watch out for this month (in no particular order)

the big five just in exhibitionist the buzz

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PECHA KUCHA

After a highly successful first round of Pecha Kucha, it’s back for what promises to be another night of thought provoking images and words. Set to the pace of 20 seconds per image, presenters have 20 images to tell a story, share an idea, explore a question, express a feeling, describe a project — just about anything.

The collection of people behind the images is as diverse as the topics of the night, with works coming in from across the various social and professional bubbles of Hanoi.

This is a night that you don’t want to miss.

Pecha Kucha takes place on Dec. 7 at Cinematheque at 22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Admission is free. Presentations are from 8pm to 10pm. For more information on how to participate, contact the organisers at pechakuchahanoi@gmail.com or visit pechakucha.org/night/hanoi

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WE ARE ONE @ HRC

Dec. 17 is the day for one of Hanoi's most popular venues to celebrate its very first birthday. From 2pm to 2am Hanoi Rock City will open its doors to the public for free, with live art, performance, photography, games, videos and a special appearance by one of Bangkok's finest dub/ reggae bands Sticky Rice, who are flying over especially. 12 hours of fun, frolics and felicitations — see you down the front.

HRC is at 27/52, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho

CHRISTMAS AND NYE

At lleast by living in Hanoi we didn’t have to see Christmas arrive in September. It’s here, at the right time, and is a sure reason to get excited — even if it’s only a little bit.

Ok, so life out on the street doesn’t change, and it’s never quite the same as being at home, but that’s not to say some don’t make the effort. From the special turkey delivery services, more parties put on by participating venues, and special offers from the city’s best restaurants, Christmas in Hanoi can be as festive as you want. And don’t forget New Year’s Eve — it falls on a Saturday night so the chances are it will be a banger everywhere.

To find out more about the Christmas and New Year’s Eve options available, turn to our section The Buzz on page 14.

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RUN HANOI

Hope you’ve been hitting the pavement in preparation for the Song Hong Half Marathon on Dec. 11. But if you’ve missed the training wagon, make sure to hop on the ‘supportive fan’ one that is rolling up just behind the runners. Come out and cheer on the athletes who will toe up at the starting line for the half marathon at UNIS inside Ciputra between 7am and 8am. The half marathon will wrap counter clockwise around all of West Lake before returning to Ciputra. The 10km event will do a portion of that. The 5km walking event will stick to Ciputra’s private roads and the kids' fun run will be on the school sports fields.

For more information, visit redriverrunners.wordpress.com or send an email to hanoiredriverruners@gmail.com

POETRY WORKSHOPS

The Bookworm has arranged for a month t of poetry this December. Poet, songwriter, artist and performer Scott Ezell will give a poetry reading of his work, including his new poems. ‘Hanoi Rhapsodies’ at the Hanoi Cooking Centre Restaurant on Wednesday Dec. 8 at 7.30pm will get you in the mood. Entry is free and all participants receive a complimentary glass of red wine.

And once you’re hooked on crafting words, you can attend Scott’s poetry workshop at the same location on Sunday Dec.11 from 2pm to 5pm — perfect for the city’s wannabe poets with writer’s block.

Tuition fee for the poetry workshop is VND500,000 if paid before Dec. 4 and VND600,000 thereafter. For more information, visit Bookworm at 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh where you can register and pay, too

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JUST IN Openings, re-openings and all that is new AMAZON BAR In an area like the Old Quarter, market saturation never seems to be a problem — and especially so in areas like Ta Hien and Luong Ngoc Quyen. You’ve guessed it: another bar has landed on Bia Hoi Junction, and this time in the shape of an Aztec-themed three-storey bar and dance space. Drinks and balcony are on the second floor, which provides a great view over the beer drinkers below, and drinks and dancing are on the third floor. CDJs and a promise of dubstep on the board outside are bound to go down well among the area’s party massive.

Amazon Bar, 34 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem

THE DOLL HOUSE Coffee shops are getting more different by the day. The Doll House, which has a feel of half green house, half design-conscious doll house, has opened, giving coffee shop dwellers another alternative for when their favourite hang out gets samey. Focusing on fresh ingredients to suit the fresh design, the Doll House also has a garden terrace, and is open for Christmas party bookings and private events.

The Doll House, 26 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem.

Enter through the Doll House Shop. The café is open from 8am to 10pm. Call 3935 2539 for more information

ART TALK CAFÉ Though this one slipped under the radar a few months ago when it first opened, Art Talk Café is up and running and worth a peek. It hosted the global graffiti exhibition of the Hope Box Project last month and now the gallery is planning its next show. While waiting, the new thoughtfully designed space at 12 Quan Su on the edge of the Old Quarter is another spot to meet up, sip coffee, and just chill on the couches under some cool sketches. Art Talk Café is connected to the Mai Gallery on Hang Bong to make for easy wandering into more art spaces.

Art Talk Café is located at 12 Quan Su, Hoan Kiem

KOREAN STEAMED CHICKEN If all the plain-boiled chicken in your life is not quite cutting it, a serving of Bong-Chu Korean steamed chicken may turn that frown around. Bong-Chu Jjim Dak restaurant only serves what they know best. A light Kimchi soup is served alongside the steamed bird mixed with cellophane noodles. Mildly peppery and sweet, Bong-Chu has a kid friendly taste. Ordering options include (a) half a chicken, (b) a whole chicken, (c) a chicken and a half, or (d) all of the above. Select the answer that best fits your appetite.

Bong-Chu Jjim-Dak restaurant is on B40 Nguyen Thi Dinh, Thanh Xuan and is open from 11am to 10pm. Visit www.bongchu.co.kr for more information or call 6680 1423

8 | The Word December 2011

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE HITS THE CAPITAL Combining traditional Argentinian specialities and preparation with modern ambience and great service, El Gaucho Steakhouse will be opening its first location with a bang in Hanoi on Dec. 14.

Already with two venues in Saigon — one next to the Opera House and the second in Saigon South — the essence of this popular chain is food off the grill. Think steak made from top-grade imported beef as well as anything from skewers to pork, chicken, salads and seafood. Add to this a background of Latin music, low, subtle lighting, an extensive wine list and good service, and Hanoi is potentially in for a treat.

El Gaucho, 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 6991. Email: www.elgaucho.com.vn

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WIRED!

WE ARE MOVING At the end of December and after 14 years at 1B Ham Long we are moving to a new gourmet shop across the street at 6T Ham Long.

Search SoundCloud for your favorite genre — from journalism and comedy to music — and then follow your favourite people, like on Twitter, to keep up with their uploads. Joining the site is free, sharing on social media is easy and you can limit your audience to a private list, too. — Kaukab Jhumra Smith

10 | The Word December 2011

BROTHERS GARDEN

H PHAN CHU TRIN

HOAN KIEM LAKE

NGO QUYEN

TRANG TIEN

E US HO ERA P ERA OP ON O T IL H YEN HU NT HA

HAM LONG UC

Tel: 3943 1009 E: info@hanoigourmet.com www.hanoigourmet.com

LO D

HU

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1B VA N

NGO THI NHA M

If outdoor beer settings and shisha are your thing, you’ll want to know about Brothers Garden, a garden bar on a large patio tucked between a converted house on Au Co. The circular bar, serving all the necessary elixirs, plays sports and movies and opens late, while in the house, there are three floors of private shisha space and an area for old school arcade gamers. One to look out for.

Brothers Garden, 22 Au Co, Tay Ho

HANG BA I

A versatile website that lets users share, download and comment on audio tracks, SoundCloud isn’t just a place to put quirky travel recordings or podcasts.

It’s become a darling of independent bands and musicians around the world, allowing them to cultivate fans from a dedicated community of users. At least 52 people who list their country as Vietnam currently share their audio tracks on the site — seven of them are from Hanoi.

Our new shop will offer a larger selection of the finest imported wine,cheese and deli products as well as an expanded lunch and dinner menu.

LE

When Americans Tyler Kellen and Tara Alan embarked on a bicycling trip to Southeast Asia, they captured the sounds of the places they visited, like the honking on a busy street or the music from a garbage truck in Hoi An, and uploaded them to www. soundcloud.com.

THE CART ON NGHI TAM It’s landed! A few years on from its first incarnation ass a mobile sandwich shop, expat lunchtime favourite The Cart has as opened its second cafe in Hanoi — this time in the West Lake area, which is great news for many people. The popular sandwich h shop serves up all the same goodies but looks a little different; in coffee-shop-from-home fashion, The Cart on Nghi Tam has made use of a large front window with a long counter and stools. A newly imported Italian ian espresso machine is said to be the star of the show with regularr customers adding a cup of Punto Italia coffee to their morning routines, outines, said owner Loan Jackson. Other features include The Cart’ss playlist that guarantees no-repeat music for a whole week — the 1,400 ,400 track list is said to have a “No Marley, Morcheeba or Jack Johnson” son” policy as a reaction to “same same” sounds elsewhere. Just one more reason why The Cart stands out from the rest.

The Cart, 8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho,, just behind The Sheraton Hotel. For more information go to www.thecartfood.com and follow the team on Twitter: @thecartfood

LA DOLCE VITA JOINS JUNCTION The busy bia hoi corner at Ta Hien seems to never stop changing. What was once a Yokool frozen yoghurt shop has morphed into a restro-café serving Italian fastfood — pizza and spaghetti with a helping or two of ice cream — which means you can still enjoy the chaos but from a little bit higher on wooden tables and chairs.

The chain will open a venue at the newly built Savico Megamall, 7-9 Nguyen Van Linh, Gia Lam in December. For more information, contact Ngoc Anh on 3990 8365

DRAGONFLY TWO The popular Old Quarter nightlife spot Dragonfly has opened a spacious bar and terrace on Phung Hung. Aside from a bigger menu, a large flat screen TV for sports and an earlier opening hour, the second Dragonfly in the area will carry more-or-less the same vibe — it’s cloned the shisha lounge, pool table and dance floor combo in what must be an act of ‘if it’s not broken don’t fix it’.

Dragonfly 2, 93 Phung Hung, Hoan Kiem. Opens from 11am till late

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EXHIBITIONIST Arts around the city A CHRISTMAS MIX UP

ANDROMAKE AT L’ESPACE

For those looking for something different, like a music artist known for a fascinating mix of American rock, folk and traditional Vietnamese music, head to the Opera House this Christmas Day for a must see performance from Vietnamese-French jazz artist Nguyen Le and guests — Vietnamese singers, Tung Duong and My Linh. You know when a big star comes to town when posters are attached to lampposts around town? Well this is one of them.

For more information visit the Hanoi Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem

After the success of the show “The Fables of La Fontaine,” created from 25 fables of La Fontaine, the first collaboration with Hanoi Academy of Theatre and Cinema on the occasion of its 50th anniversary, Jean-Marie Lejude creates the Andromake text of Jon Fosse based on the work of Racine. On the set, eight characters — four French actors and four Vietnamese — mix up two languages but with only one subject: love.

Hanoi Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem. Dec. 15 at 8pm

SINGLE MOTHERS’ VOICES An exhibit throughout December at the Vietnam Women’s Museum will be housing photographs and stories of 18 single mothers from the Soc Son District of Hanoi. As part of a collaboration project with the Finnish Embassy, the women received training and cameras and photographed themselves and important subjects in their lives.

Of the 1,000 photos submitted, 100 are on display at the museum.

The stories reveal the individual hardships that each woman has faced in a life of “one shoulder but two yokes”, which refers to the double roles played in raising children alone.

The exhibit delves into the community perceptions and treatment of single mothers, how those attitudes have changed, and what the women hope for in a future of more equality.

36 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem.

Entry fee is VND30,000. Exhibition end to be announced

BALLET To start a busy month at the Opera House, a new, modern dance group, Hanoi Dance Theatre, will perform four original ballet works on Tuesday Dec. 6. The new group, which has been formed by several of the best dancers from Vietnam National Opera Ballet (VNOB), including Cao Chi Thanh and Cao Duc Toan, will perform four dances, two that are by guest choreographers from Sweden and France. Expect music by Mozart, Bach, Irving Berlin and others.

Tickets are VND350,000, VND250,000 and VND150,000 and are available at the Opera House, the Hanoi Cinematheque and www. ticketvn.com. Tickets can also be ordered with free delivery by calling 0913 489858.

12 | The Word December 2011

BEETHOVEN Not the man himself, of course, but a group of highly qualified musicians will perform Ludwig van Beethoven’s Symphony No. 9 on Dec. 7 and Dec. 8.

Conductor Honna Tetsjui, soprano Thang Long, alto Vanh Khuyen, tenor Adrian Ward and baritone Vu Manh Dung will team together with the Hanoi Freude Choir, the National University of Art Education Choir, the Vietnam National Opera Ballet Choir, and chorus master Graham Sutcliffe to drop a little class on Hanoi for two nights only.

Hanoi Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem. The show starts at 8pm and ticket prices range from VND150,000 to VND450,000, available at the Hanoi Opera House. You can also book online at ticketvn.com or call 0913 489858

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THE HANOI TANNOY

THE BUZZ General news, promotions and events around town THAILAND DAY

Overheard Around Town

Trixlepant Juxtadep Volume 1 — it's the name of our first mixtape One of the headlines said "dialogue an effective means of communication" The mouse ate all my green, and then squeaked the whole night

SOFITEL PLAZA GETS FESTIVE It’s all going on this season from the bottom to the very top of the Sofitel Plaza. While festive log cakes and gingerbread houses for the little ones are served up over the festive period in Au Palais Goumand, the Christmas Eve gala party and New Year’s Eve dinner will offer up pies, meats, cheeses, sushi, sashimi and Vietnamese cuisine from a great height — in the all-new Summit Lounge on the roof of the hotel.

Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh. Call 3823 888 for more information

For the first two weeks in December, a Korean Food Festival will grace My Dinh’s first five-star hotel, Crowne Plaza West Hanoi, with specialities served up by Korean Chef Han Chul Bae in the Lackah Restaurant.

The lunch buffet goes from VND330,000++ while the dinner buffet goes for VND430,000++, ending on Dec. 14.

Lot X7, Le Duc Tho, My Dinh, Tu Liem. Call 6270 6688 or visit www.crowneplaza.com for more info

I'm just gonna go home and watch The Human Centipede I would dropkick English cuisine. Rugby drop kick or wrestling dropkick? Both Man, if I had your body, I would be telling chicks at the bar that I was firefighter

In Hanoi everyone thinks they are somebody. In Saigon everyone wants to be somebody Stuck in a lift for 45 minutes and what does he do? Take his clothes off. Well, it is the slowest lift in the world Vietnamese food is crap, end of

14 | The Word December 2011

FAB FESTIVE CRAFT FAIR

KOREAN SPICE

You know what they're like, these womanisers

I said a lot of things under the influence of meat, so I wasn't really myself

Saturday Dec. 3 brings us Thailand Day and a chance to contribute to the local Flood Relief Fund charity. Organisers of the event hope to share a bit of The Land of Smiles with Hanoi to the tunes of live music, games, raffles and food and drink — none of which can be a bad thing. Tickets will be sold for VND100,000 for adults and the proceeds benefit the people seriously affected by Thailand’s recent flooding.

To continue with the theme, a food promotion is going on from Dec. 13 to Dec. 17 at Bao Son Hotel. Enjoy a Thai lunch buffet prepared by a Thai chef in a Thai style using Thai tastes.

Convinced this is authentic yet?

Thailand Day on Saturday Dec. 3 will go all day at the American Club, 19-21 Hai Ba Trung. The Bao Son Hotel for Thai food is at 50 Nguyen Chi Thanh

QATAR LANDS DAILY IN HANOI Good news for those appreciative of spacious airplanes, onboard entertainment, a stopover in the Middle East and some of the best food you’ll try up high — Qatar Airlines will fly daily to and from Hanoi starting this month. It’s surprising how the five-star airline is still one of the cheapest around.

A flight to Europe with Qatar goes for approximately VND12,000,000 without tax and will include a short stop over in Doha, the capital of Qatar. From there, if you’re not bound for Europe, you have the choice of 109 destinations.

For more information on Qatar Airlines in Hanoi, visit www.qatarairways.com/vn

BREKKY AT MATCHBOX If you’re up and about early in the Ba Dinh region, and need something a little more than streetside noodles, check out Matchbox on Cao Ba Quat.

From December, a traditional western-style breakfast menu will be launched, with each item going for VND65,000 with a free pot of coffee or tea.

And if you still need noodles, Matchbox is adding pho bo and ga to its regular breakfast options for the first time. Also in December, happy hour goes every day from 4pm until 7pm, with house wine going BOGOF style and free snacks thrown in. For Christmas, Matchbox is crafting a set menu for just over VND600,000, with a free bottle of wine for tables of four.

Matchbox, 40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh. Call 3734 3098 for more information

If you need a little spark for your holiday spirit or some nourishment for an already full-on craving for mulled wine and mistletoe, the custom made festive craft fair at the Hanoi Social Club is your answer. For two days in December you can retreat to a den of Christmas cheer, complete with handcrafted knits and gifts, music and other holiday stuff that’s fun. Individual craft makers will set up stalls of their jewelry, clothing and accessories with notable appearances by the fashionistas Virginie and Joelle of Velvet Vintage, designer Nina O’Brien’s Kindling collection of well-sourced clothing from around the globe, and sleepwear from socially forward Nightingale. Your favourite neighbourhood bookshop Bookworm will also be represented, with some crafty and seasonal pages. Now all you need to do is find a giant plastic glowing reindeer for your rooftop and you’re set for the season.

Thursday Dec. 8 from 5pm to 9pm and Sunday Dec. 11 from 2pm to 6pm at Hanoi Social Club at 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem

HCC HEARTS CHRISTMAS When the kids are feeling like Hanoi isn’t Christmasy enough, take them to the Hanoi Cooking Centre — here the team will teach them how to make Gingerbread Houses and can equip them with the kits necessary to do it at home. The cooking classes go on Saturday Dec. 10, Saturday Dec. 17 and Wednesday Dec. 21 at 3pm and cost VND380,000 per child. The take-home kits cost VND230,000.

Also, as usual at the Cooking Centre, the chefs have prepared a welcome Christmas product list that will be available until Christmas Eve — think handmade mince pies, Christmas pudding, brandy butter, tomato chutney, brandy butter, paw paw jam and lots of other staples that will make Christmas in Hanoi all the more festive.

Find the Hanoi Cooking Centre at 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh

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the talk UKRAINE TO HCMC Ukraine’s national carrier Aerosvit Airlines will launch a direct route between Ho Chi Minh City and Kiev on Dec. 23. Initially, Aerosvit Airlines will fly twice weekly and as a special promotion it is offering round-trip tickets for the route for as low as VND12,394,000, including taxes and fees. Meanwhile, Air Mauritius and India’s Jet Airways have also launched promotion campaigns to attract passengers from Vietnam, so it’s worth checking out their websites if you’re planning a trip away this Christmas and New Year.

For more information go to www. aerosvit.com, www.jetairways.com and www.airmauritius.com

DEEP WATER SOLOING PHOTO TOUR The boys from Viet Climb, Hanoi’s first dedicated climbing gym, could be considered a bunch of nutters. They climb all over Halong Bay, without a harness, and jump from the limestone karsts before plunging into the water. They call it “deep water soloing” but to fully understand, head to Ete Bar where they are now showing photographs — from a year’s worth of adventures climbing over Vietnam — with an exhibition called “Rock climbing is the only cure for gravity,” which will close at the end of the month. Adrenaline rush seekers unite.

Ete Bar, 95 Giang Van Minh. Visit vietclimb.vn for more information about the gym over in An Duong

SCOUTS IN THE CITY Who knew? Girl and Boy Scouts in Hanoi. Don’t believe us? Scout’s honour — the groups meet on the Concordia International School’s campus every Thursday evening. They get up to all the enriching experiences the Scouts are so well-known for, from field trips, sports and skill-building, to community service projects, cultural exchanges and environmental stewardships. So, there’s no longer room for complaints from children about Hanoi being boring after school.

For more info email Concordia teacher karen.markin@concordiahanoi.org or visit concordiahanoi.org. The campus is at the CMC Tower on Duy Tan, Cau Giay

DRAW FOR CLIMATE CHANGE For the aspiring draughtsman and margin-doodler alike, here’s a cartoon contest for a good cause. Climate Change in Asia-Pacific: A People’s Perspective is calling for submissions from now until Feb. 1, 2012. The contest underlines the need for more active climate change and human development attention. And because organisers are interested in the points of view on the ground, everyone and anyone living in a developing Asian-Pacific country is welcome to get involved with sketches of issues related to the growing problem.

For more details or to submit an application, contact cartooncontestasiapacific@hotmail.com

LITTLE TIGERS, BIG TEETH Little Tigers, a Vietnamese run charity, is getting some Hanoi love this month. Organisers have put together a line up of music, skateboards and bikes, and live art to raise money for the cause — the foundation is dedicated to supporting orphaned children in Vietnam with basic necessities. For a quietly humane charity, the theme of the night is heavy and loud. Limited edition T-shirts from Boo Skateshop will be sold to raise money, in addition to ink supplied by Hanoi Tattoo Club, barbequed food and, as always, a drink or three.

Little Tigers Big Teeth Charity Night is at Hanoi Rock City on Dec. 10.

5pm to late

SHERATON CELEBRATES On New Year’s Eve, the Sheraton Hanoi Song Hong Ballroom will play host to the Moet Star of The Night event to see in 2012 with style. It kicks off with a cocktail reception in the courtyard followed by an array of food, internationally acclaimed live acts and a DJ with hits from the 1970s through to the present day. Tickets are VND2,600,000++ per adult and VND1,300,000++ per child (5 to 12 years). In the days leading up to the New Year, it’s all about the gourmet buffets at the Oven D’or Restaurant — on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and Boxing Day. To top it all off, the restaurant will say farewell to 2011 with a New Year’s Eve celebration buffet on Dec. 31. Food will be accompanied by live jazz.

The Sheraton Hanoi, K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho — call 3719 9000 for more information on the buffet prices or see sheraton.com/hanoi

16 | The Word December 2011

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the talk GIFTS AT PUNTO C Coffee brand Punto Italia has put together a gift package ideal for those who need something for coffee fiends this Christmas so — buy one coffee capsule machine (at a discounted price of VND8,900,000 in including VAT and delivery) and get two b boxes Punto Italia Espresso Superiore ccapsules 100 percent Arabica for free.

The offer ends on New Year’s Eve. For more in information contact thuy.do@puntoitalia.asia oor visit puntoitalia.asia

ALL YOU NEED IS LOVE A social media campaign, which aims to promote discussion and action among Vietnamese youth on the attitudes and behaviour of respectful relationships, will culminate this December. The Love Journey campaign, which will get participants to think about gender equality and nonviolent relationships, consists of two parts — a photography competition and “16 days of activism” aimed at high school and university students, where contestants will develop and implement ideas for promoting violence-free schools and communities.

“The Love Journey takes a new approach to prevention of genderbased violence and promotion of gender equality in Vietnam.

Instead of telling people to not perpetrate violence, we are focusing on encouraging positive, genderequitable and non-violent attitudes among youth, who are still forming their ideas about gender relations and what it means to be a man and a woman. [It] will help young people to build relationship skills that they can take into adult life,” said Benjamin Swanton, Joint Campaign for Prevention of Domestic Violence (JCC) Project Manager from Paz y Desarrollo.

The contest will award iPads and trips to Bangkok for winning ideas that promote gender equality and non-violence in intimate relationships.

At the end of the competition, two winners will be selected by a panel of judges — consisting of rocker Pham Anh Khoa, representatives of PYD, UNFPA, and P4P — to travel to Bangkok, Thailand and present their ideas at the regional United Nations office.

To find out more, visit www.htyt.vn

18 | The Word November December 2011

Genuine Italian Food - Excellent Italian Wines with Sommelier's Choice - Friendly Service Cosy Ambiance - Fully Airconditioned Catering and Free Delivery

HIGHWAY 4 TURNS 11

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Tel: +84 38269080 | hoangpanevino@gmail.com

December is a packed month for noteworthy promotions at Highway 4. The middle of the month marks the 11th anniversary of the established eatery so diners on the big night — Dec. 16 — will receive a birthday gift, and all guests will have a chance to win a four-litre wooden barrel of Son Tinh’s signature liquor: nep phu loc. A beard, belly and booze bearing Santa Claus will grace the restaurants on Christmas Eve between 7pm and 10pm and will host a lucky draw where one group will win a voucher for VND1,000,000. And if you are one of those people still a bit sore from missing your Thanksgiving turkey, Highway 4 is offering a nice twist of Western and Asian cuisine with a few turkey leg delights: steamed with Son Tinh my tuu liquor, Thai-spiced, and steamed with tamarind and galingale. On Christmas Day all turkey dishes will go half price. Gobble up.

For locations, visit highway4.com

YOGA AND REI KI AT ZENITH For those looking to discover what pagodas can do for the state of mind, you’ll be happy to hear the Zenith Yoga Wednesday morning pagoda sessions will continue into December, from 7am to 8.30am at Hoang An Pagoda, end of Alley 12 Dang Thai Mai — a peaceful West Lake spot at the best of times.

Consider the sessions still on unless it rains and until it gets too cold to continue.

Sessions are by donation — Zenith Yoga is raising money to buy mats for karma yoga classes at the Cancer Hospital — and your own mats are necessary in the pagoda. If you want to learn how to heal yourself, the Rei Ki 1 course will take place on Saturday Dec. 10 and Sunday Dec. 11. Rei Ki is a Japanese word deriving from “rei”, meaning universal, and “ki”, meaning life force energy. Rei Ki 2 will be held in February 2012.

For more information visit zenithyogavietnam.com

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IN THE PAPERS The best of the Vietnamese press

WORK TO START ON VIETNAM’S SPACE CENTRE

VIETNAM TO LIMIT ABORTIONS A new Vietnam health regulation is going to ban obstetric clinics from giving abortions to fetuses older than seven weeks. The article is included in a bill drafted by the Ministry of Health, reports Tuoi Tre. Tre. Vietnam does not have specific laws on abortion, but use of the option has been on the rise and the rate is among the highest worldwide, especially among teenagers.

Under the bill, obstetric clinics can give pregnancy examinations and supervision, and first emergency aid in pregnancy and gynecology situations. The draft also bans beauty clinics from conducting plastic surgery, including altering the shapes and sizes of body parts like breast raising, fat removal or skin straightening.

NEW LOGO FOR NATIONAL PARK Cat Tien National Park is looking for a new logo to replace the old one, which features the Javan rhinoceros, an animal that has been declared extinct in Vietnam.

According to Thanh Nien News, the park is working with scientists from the Central Highlands Biological Institute to restore the whole skeleton of the last Javan rhino, which was shot by poachers in the park last year.

Once completed the skeleton will be displayed.

The international conservation group WWF confirmed that the Javan rhino is extinct in Vietnam in October and released an online film explaining the animal's road to extinction.

Javan rhinos were thought to be extinct in mainland Asia until 1988, when a small population was discovered in Cat Tien National Park.

Millions of dollars were pumped into ensuring their welfare.

20 | The Word December 2011

CANNIBALISM REMOVED FROM VIETNAM’S CINDERELLA TALE The ending of the story of Tam and Cam — Vietnam’s most famous fairy tale — has been changed in the official literature textbook for tenth graders with the cannibalistic element cut out. However, there have been different reactions from teachers and parents about the modification of this traditional fairy tale.

Tam and Cam is a Cinderella story about a young beautiful girl called Tam who lives with her wicked stepmother and stepsister Cam. In the end, Tam gets married to a king and is brought back to his palace.

When Cam asked Tam about her beauty secret, she tells Cam to take a bath in boiling water. Cam does as suggested and dies after being boiled alive.

Cam's body is then cut apart and used to make a jar of food. Tam sends the jar to her stepmother, who eats it and later finds out that it was her daughter. She then dies of shock.

However, in the new version, the stepmother dies of a broken heart after seeing her daughter being boiled in hot water.

Le Thi Hong Thuy, head of literature teachers at Nguyen Du High School in District 10 said it is the karma that counts.

“Many teachers are still debating if the end of a fairy tale should be modified.

The basic methodology is to let students discuss the ending. We also need to explain to them this is a folk story, thus has different versions. The core message is good people get rewarded and bad people get punished in the end,” she says.

Local literature teachers explain this change in the ending originated from educators’ fear that Tam’s cruel revenge may affect students’ morality in society.

Work on Vietnam's national space centre will start at the end of this year, with a total investment of VND12.6 trillion writes the website VnExpress.

According to Doan Minh Quang, chief of the Vietnam Space Technology Centre, the project will be conducted in cooperation with Japan and is scheduled to be completed in 2018.

Covering nine hectares at Hoa Lac Hi-tech Park in Hanoi, the centre will function as a hub for research and for the production of small satellites to meet local demand for weather forecasting, research and rescue missions.

Vietnam launched its first satellite Vinasat-1 in April 2008 and plans to launch another — a 150kg earth observation satellite — in 2014.

LOUIS VUITTON WINS COPYRIGHT LAWSUIT IN VIETNAM The Supreme People’s Court in Ho Chi Minh City ordered a shopkeeper to pay fines and make a public apology for selling fake Louis Vuitton products in an appeal trial held in October.

Le Thi Hong, who owned a kiosk at the Saigon Square will have to pay VND68 million as compensation for copyright violations. Hong was also ordered to publish her apology to Louis Vuitton in local newspapers.

In May 2009, Louis Vuitton discovered that Hong sold counterfeit products under its brand at her store and sent her a note asking her to cease. After Hong ignored the request, the company reported the case to local authorities.

Hong was subjected to administrative fines four times but kept on selling the fake products.

In November, Louis Vuitton brought the case to court. It sought a compensation sum of US$13,430 and Hong’s public apology.

Louis Vuitton also proposed that local authorities suspend Hong’s business for three months.

In the first trial, the Ho Chi Minh City People’s Court ordered Hong to stop any acts that infringed on the brand's copyright and to issue a public apology to the company. Hong admitted her acts, asking the court to reduce the compensation sum, given her family’s financial difficulties.

However,, the appeal pp court upheld p the initial sentence. ce.

The Word December 2011 | 21

calendar

DECEMBER

CALENDAR To have your event included in our calendar, please email kaitlin@wordhanoi.com by no later than Dec. 15 with a description of the event and a high-res photo.

WED

TUE

MON

THU 01 Viett Clim Vie C Climb limb b 20 Rock 2011 Rock Climbing Climbi Cl Climbing ng Tour P Tour Photo o Exhibi Exh Exhibition ibitio bitio tion n @ Ete Ete (all (al alll month) month)

05

06

07

Match Box happy hour every week day 4pm to 7pm, buy one get one free on all drinks

Landscape Painting exhibition @ Korean Cultural Centre

Korean Food Festival @ Crowne Plaza in My Dinh.

From begining of Dec. to Dec. 14

Hanoi speakers toastmasters @ Press Club

12

13

CHAAP Collective Exhibition: Phap Phong @ Goethe Institut (runs from Dec. 6 to Dec. 13)

Pecha Kucha @ Cinematheque, 8pm to 10pm

08 Fabulous Festive Fair @ Hanoi Social Club, 5-9pm

Zenith Yoga in the Pagoda @ Hoang An Pagoda, 7am 8.30am (every week)

Beethoven Vol.9 @ Hanoi Opera House, 8pm

Beethoven Vol.9 @ Hanoi Opera House, 8pm

Hanoi Rhapsodies with Scott Ezell @ Bookworm, 7.30pm

14

15

Happy Hour @ Don's Tay Ho, 5pm to 7pm daily Thailand Food Promotion @ Bao Son Hotel, from Dec. 13 to Dec. 17 “Andromake” “An Andro dromak make” e @ Hanoi Hanoii Opera Hano Operaa Oper House, 8pm House, 8pm

19 Cine-Music Sessions @ Cinematheque, 8pm (every week) New western and Vietnamese breakfast menu @ Matchbox (daily)

26

20 Future Lounge @ The Rooftop every Tuesday with DJ Cache Hanoi Speakers Toastmasters meet @ Press Club every Tuesday. Call 01299 241893 for information

21

Gingerbread House Class for Children @ Hanoi Cooking Centre, 3pm Jazz Band @ Oyster Don's Tay Ho, 8.30pm to o 10.30pm, every Wed. and Thurs.

Hour @ Southgate, 27 Happy 28 daily from 5pm to 8pm

Bar,, Bar B

22

FRI 02

HITS presents Winter One Acts @ Chuong Vang Theatre, 7.30pm BBGV Christmas Cocktails @ Hilton Hanoi Opera, 6pm to late AKAT, Moeth & 2 Hanoian bands @ HRC, 9pm

09

HITS presents Winter One Acts @ Chuong Vang Theatre, 7.30pm Italian jazz Dialektos with award-winning musicians Maria Pia De Vito and Huw Warren @ Labour Theatre, Trang Tien

SAT 03

HITS presents Winter One Acts @ Chuong Vang Theatre, 7.30pm

3D improvisation performance with music, improvisation and live photography @ Goethe Institut

Wall of Dub (dubstep and electro night) @ HRC, 9pm

10

“How About Love” screening @ Cinematheque, 7pm

Gingerbread House Class for Children @ Hanoi Cooking Centre, 3pm Little Tigers Big Teeth Charity Night @ HRC, 7pm

17

Gingerbread House Class for Children @ Hanoi Cooking Centre, 3pm

“Le Père Noël est une ordure” screening @ L’Espace, 8pm

HRC 1st Birthday “We Are One” 2pm to 2am

Highway 4 11th anniversary specials

Cabaret night @ L’Espace

23

“Single Mothers’ Voices” eexhibition @ the Vietnam W Women’s Museum ((all month)

Wall of Dub, Christmas Special @ HRC, 9pm

24

Luala classical music concert, @ 61 Ly Thai To, 3-5pm

Christmas Eve Gala Party @ Sofitel Plaza Special Christmas Eve Buffet @ Oven d'Or, Sheraton Hotel

29 2

30

31 New Year Countdown @ HRC New Year’s Eve Party @ Sofitel Summit Lounge New Year's Eve parties around town. Check www.wordhanoi. com for details

22 | The Word December 2011

04

Run for Children @ Thien Quang Lake, 7am

Sunday Brunch @ Southgate Thailand Day 2011 @ The American Club, 4pm to 9pm

Zenith Yoga Reiki course

16

SUN

Traditional Vietnamese Trio Band @ Oyster Bar, Don's Tay Ho, every Sunday from 8.30pm

11

Song Hong Half Marathon @ UNIS

Poetry Workshop @ Hanoi Cooking Centre, 2pm to 5pm Fabulous Festive Fair @ Hanoi Social Club, 2pm to 6pm Ein Lied für Argyris screening @ Cinematheque, 7pm

18 Luala classical music concert, @ 61 Ly Thai To, 3pm to 5pm Yoga Buffet Charity Workshop @ Zenith Yoga, 9.30am to 11.30am

25

French-Vietnamese jazz musician Nguyen Le with special guests @ Hanoi Opera House Turkey Christmas Specials @ Highway 4 Christmas Day meals around Hanoi. Check www. wordhanoi.com for details

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SYNERGY BIRTHDAY @ HRC

WINE TASTING @ THE METROPOLE

In their biggest bash yet, the team at Synergy celebrated one year of live music events with 12 hours of performances and sets from Synergy artists and DJs

Vino distributor Da Loc held a master class with Vina Sena’s president to celebrate the arrival of iconic Chilean wine, Sena, in Hanoi

Clients, freelancers, friends and readers joined the Word Ha Noi team up high to celebrate the publication’s second birthday

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVE LEMKE

PHOTOS BY GALEN STOLEE E

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MATT LAW, LOC NGUYEN AND NICK ROSS

WORD PARTY @ SUMMIT LOUNGE

PHOTOGRAPHS PROVIDED BY CALIFORNIA FITNESS

PHOTOGRAPHS PROVIDED BY SMPASIA.ORG

overscene

CALIFORNIA FASHION SHOW California Fitness celebrated the launch of its Centurian membership with live performances by Ho Ngoc Ha and Phuong Vy, and a fashion show from Nike and Le Thanh Hoa

The Word December 2011 | 25

insider

PHOTO BY DOMINIC BLEWETT

q&a life in the middle the year that was

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Q&A

FOLLOWING THE RELEASE OF DEATH IN HANOI, DAVID STOUT TALKS WITH CALIFORNIAN AUTHOR SUZI GARNER ABOUT HER ILLUSTRATED NOVEL AND HANOI’S INSPIRING SIDE

PHOTO BY AARON JOEL SANTOS HOW DID DEATH IN HANOI COME ABOUT? When I first moved to the house I’m in on Yen Phu, they had one of those hearse carriages, I’m not sure what else you would call it. It was sort of just stranded there. It didn’t even look old-fashioned, it looked like something from a completely different world. It stuck in my imagination and stayed there for years. I tried to think of different narratives. I had the idea of Hanoi, which is being built up all the time with construction and then the falling apart, deterioration and death… but it took a while for the storyline to evolve.

THERE ARE SOME PROMINENT SETTINGS ILLUSTRATED IN THE BOOK — THE CITY’S ALLEYWAYS, LONG BIEN BRIDGE AND THEN THE MOUNTAINS. HOW DID YOU CHOOSE THEM? Long Bien Bridge worked out [with] the idea of death and crossing this bridge, it’s sort of an obvious metaphor. The alleys; I like the idea of wandering — it was walking around the small alleys and having to catch all the details that really made me fall in love with Hanoi.

The Ferris wheel located out at the water park shows up on three pages in the book. It was initially just a West Lake monument, but then I included it in more pages because I like the symbolism of it, related to the wheel of samsara — life, death, life, etc. And then going out of the city and into the countryside, it was kind of an experiment. If I did it again, I would really like to build on that and make the pagoda at the end much more developed. I think for me it was about getting out of that tangle of the city and going into the wildness of nature. I don’t envision heaven being in the city.

THERE SEEMS TO BE A FASCINATION WITH BIRDS IN THE STORY, IS THAT BECAUSE OF HANOI’S LOVE FOR BIRDS? Yeah, I’m obsessed with the idea of letting those birds loose. I want to let all of them loose, but I don’t know how they would survive.

There’s something so creepy about that poor little miner bird [in Chim Sao]. His toenails, have you ever noticed they’re super long and curved? Poor little guy.

THERE ARE NO MOTORBIKES IN DEATH IN HANOI. IS THE BOOK IMBUED WITH A

28 | The Word December 2011

HANOI OF THE PAST? Someone else also mentioned that it’s Hanoi minus the chaos. I didn’t really think of it at the time. I was really focused on creating the story of the characters and what happens with the death. So for me, creating any other characters seemed superfluous. The idea of having traffic just didn’t fit with the feeling of the quietness.

DO YOU HAVE ANYTHING IN MIND INVOLVING GRAPHIC NARRATIVES IN THE FUTURE? I want to do more work with ink that’s bleeding — like wet on wet. I don’t want to have the idea of doing a specific narrative. I have seen vignettes and certain things that have inspired me to do something. But I think it’s still evolving. I’m working on my novel still, so my brain is focused on that. But I would love to go back into drawing.

THE COLOUR PALETTE IN DEATH IN HANOI REMINDS ME OF HANOI IN THE WINTER. WAS THAT YOUR THINKING? I made it in December. Definitely for me, there is a feeling of the cold and dirtiness that really creates the ambiance that Hanoi has. During autumn it’s beautiful and you don’t focus on that aspect so much, but I think that when it’s cold or when it’s cloudy it can really feel that way. Black and white works well with Hanoi being what Hanoi is.

WHAT DO YOU MEAN? The soot stains everything and the concrete gets stained with mold. You know, it doesn’t stay beautiful for very long. It gets grey.

Especially when it’s cloudy, grey tinges everything I feel.

SO DO YOU THINK HANOI IS A GOOD PLACE FOR CREATIVE PEOPLE TO WORK IN? It’s an awesome place for creativity. I think it’s amazing. It’s hilarious that Death in Hanoi’s had so much attention. To me, that’s a signal that there needs to be more art in Hanoi. This is the perfect place. It’s cheap to live. It’s totally interesting. There are a lot of Vietnamese people doing really cool things. And because you’re outside your own context, it’s really liberating.

This interview has been edited and condensed

The Word December 2011 | 29

LIFE

IN THE MIDDLE Everyone’s been there and most have got the t-shirt, but few know how it is to live amid the chaos of Ta Hien and its neighbouring streets.

Words by Ian Paynton and Hoa Le. Photos by Dominic Blewett

30 | The Word December 2011

“It’s like you are in an obstetrics hospital,” says tea vendor Hung, when asked what he thinks of the nightlife on Ta Hien and in the surrounding area. Running a stand at the point where Ta Hien meets Hang Buom, he adds: “When young people come out, they make noise… it’s a consequence, you just have to accept it and learn to live with it.”

Hung has lived here for 50 years and remembers when today’s main party strip was an alley of walls — no doors, windows, shop fronts or nightclubs.

“When business first started getting big here, the area was mainly selling candy and cakes… people started getting fatter,” he says, while preparing a temporary shelter against the approaching storm.

“Then it became an area for clothes shops and bars.”

In what is known as the ‘golden’ land — where each centimetre of land is said to cost as much as a piece of gold — it is hard to find space not being utilised. According to the Hanoi Old Quarter Management Board, the area’s population density stood at 84,000 per square kilometre in 2010, double the average of the most densely-populated city in the world, Manila, which has 43,079. In typical Old Quarter fashion, the residents here live tucked down alleyways that often lead to a courtyard entrance to five or six houses.

“It’s exciting to live on this street,” says Nghi, the 11-year-old daughter of a late night pho cuon vendor who lives on Hang Buom. “You get to meet different people and it’s always busy. I would rather live here than anywhere else in Hanoi,” she says in flawless English, which she says she learned from speaking

The Word December 2011 | 31

to tourists and watching movies. “I never go to bed early.”

This frenetic area of the Old Quarter — Ta Hien, Hang Buom, Dao Duy Tu and Luong Ngoc Quyen — is a hive of life; an ever-changing bubble of relentless chaos, lasting from sunrise to the very early hours, every single day.

The City’s Food Court At 6am, noodle stands on Ta Hien serve the first customers as broths begin to boil.

Children in their white blouse uniforms arrive with parents at sticky rice stands for a quick breakfast before heading off to school. Others spill out of a baguette shop and neighbours gossip over bitter tea and plum juice. Over on Dao Duy Tu, a dozen adults sit on stalls surrounding the rice porridge vendor — like children during story time at a kindergarten — and the tra chanh and che shops begin to open for business. As the morning grows older and the streets get busier, motorbike beeps clash with ‘yellow’ songs played by a street barber and the repetitive recordings from a mousetrap seller on a bike. The public announcement from the loud speakers mumble in the subconscious — today it’s advice for parents on keeping teenage children away from crime — and xe om drivers shout “woo whoo” at lostlooking tourists.

Hang, who sells banh cuon at 39 Hang Buom, says she doesn’t have to worry about the handful of other banh cuon stands within a 50 to 100-metre radius.

“We are unique and customers still come to us so I don’t need to compete at all,” she says. Her banh cuon is from Hanoi, while others in the proximity are from Thanh Tri or Phu Ly, which have different ingredients and tastes.

By late morning bun cha arrives on Hang Buom with bun bo nam bo and bun moc. On Dao Duy Tu a bun nem stand serving big, crispy parcels sets up outside The Half Man Half Noodle with bun oc and banh cuon Phu Ly close by. As evening descends, everything from pho xao to bun ngan and bo nuong is up for grabs in the square of four streets — not to mention the nem chua and banh da snacks served at Bia Hoi Junction.

The banh my going for VND30,000 at the top of Ta Hien could be one of the finest around for its barbecued lemongrass pork filled baguette, and a more expensive VND50,000 pho stand is always busy at 31 Hang Buom.

“I never have to leave this area when I want to eat something,” says 42-yearold Giang, who repairs and sells Soviet watches from his shop-cum-bedroom-cumliving room opposite The Cheeky Quarter on Ta Hien. “It’s all here.”

32 | The Word December 2011

“This frenetic area of the Old Quarter — Ta Hien, Hang Buom, Dao Duy Tu and Luong Ngoc Quyen — is a hive of life; an ever-changing bubble of relentless chaos, lasting from sunrise to the very early hours, every single day” A Changing Night Scene New nightspots seemingly open monthly in this area, and residents and bar owners say they have noticed a change in the demographics of customers. One long term resident, who didn’t want to be named, says that the increase of Vietnamese visiting the area at night has caused problems, and is the reason for bars shutting earlier in recent months.

“Before we only had western customers,” says My from Tet Bar at 2A Ta Hien. “But in the last year, most customers are Vietnamese… people used to think that it was a bad habit to go out to a bar, but it’s reversed. Maybe going to bar is looked at as a civilized way of spending a night now,” adds My, who says Tet, formerly called Le Maquis, was the first bar to open in the area in 1997.

There are now seven bars and clubs on the top half of Ta Hien — Fat Cat, The Alchemist, Mao’s Red Lounge, Funky Buddha, Tom’s Bar, Tet Bar and The Cheeky Quarter — with a busier than ever bia hoi at its base. In the neighbouring streets, clubs like Dragonfly and Temple Bar are crowded every night at

the weekend and newcomer venues like Flow Bar, Market Bar, Amazon Bar and Bee Lounge are doing all they can to put themselves on the Old Quarter’s nightlife map.

Motorbike keeper on Hang Buom, Tan, says that just six years ago he only had to watch three or four bikes per night but these days will look after up to 100 motorbikes most nights, and handfuls of cars.

Olivier Waryn from the Fat Cat bar at 25 Ta Hien invested here now because “it’s where everything is happening and because of plans to pedestrianise the roads”. Refurbishment is underway and the buildings already have new facades, which, according to some Hanoians, mar the authentic Old Quarter look.

“My family has lived here for six generations,” says resident Hai. “The whole street had only three or four households and the architecture was better with big houses, terraces and open spaces on the second floor,” he adds. “Life was more peaceful then.”

Now, according to Hai, as tourism develops this area is a more suitable place for business than it is for living. As the last remaining food vendors wash the pavements, a sticky rice seller on a bike sings her fares in a thoughtful volume and comforting tone perfect for late at night — “ai xoi lac ruoc khong”.

For the first time since 7am, a near silence descends on the area. Then a group of backpackers enter earshot to disturb the peace, chanting in unison as only a drunk group of backpackers could.

The Word November 2011 | 33

the many faces of hanoi

The RnB Singer Words by Kaitlin Rees // Photo by Aaron Joel Santos

“OH, REALLY? YOU REALLY NEED ME TO answer this question,” replies Kim, when asked whether or not she considers herself a ‘typical Vietnamese woman’.

Typical she certainly is not. Though to say what she is would be a challenge, even for Kim herself.

“I follow my instinct and follow my feeling and do what I want to do. My lifestyle is free,” she says.

Like many in her generation, Kim looks beyond tradition to find her own way of doing things.

“Of course new generations are more open minded than the old school stuff. But they are somehow still lost and confused — even myself when I think about my path,” she says. “Music,” she explains pointing to a tattoo on her shoulder blade, “is my fate, faith and freedom”.

Since she started her music career at the age of 13, Kim’s sound has developed alongside her character, with different outfits and attitudes marking the way.

“Back then I was a hardcore rapper. I wore baggy jeans, big t-shirts and baseball caps. Stuff like that… I wanted people to think of me like a rapper,” says Kim, who even at a young age never had a problem seeing through disingenuous façades in the entertainment industry.

“Everyone had these masks on their faces when it came to show business. Everybody looked the same — especially girls, they looked so adorable and sexy but couldn’t show their real character. I was like ‘no, I’m going to be a rapper.”

Now, as a 20-year-old, Kim mainly sings to rhythm and blues, but her songs are certainly not about romantic guys in white shirts walking on beaches or riding bicycles, like one would expect from popular Vietnamese music. The description of such scenes causes her face to screw up in disgust.

One of her music videos, which she made when she was 17, deals with domestic violence. “I saw a guy beating his wife and it reminded me of how often I’ve seen these things and how no one writes songs about them… That’s why I write songs like this. When it comes to my mind, I’ll

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“Everyone had these masks on their faces when it came to show business. Everybody looked the same — especially girls, they look so adorable and sexy but couldn’t show their real character” write about it, I’m not limited to any subject in music,” she says.

From intermittent asides of “ah, sick” directed to her beat making buddies in the corner of the room, it is obvious that Kim is having a good time doing what she loves. She is seemingly focused and her list of upcoming projects is long. She is making a new single — something that “uniquely mixes hip-hop with dubstep and maybe even samples the sounds of Trinh Cong Son” — and is also preparing for a five-country tour of Eastern Europe with a group of other Vietnamese artists and singers.

And after that? A stint in Saigon.

“When I think about Saigon, I think about business,” says Kim. “I prefer to live in Hanoi because [it] is my hometown. I’m more connected to it than I am with Saigon. When I decided to go [south] and live, it was because of business.”

For this vocal artist, coming into her own in a time when fewer signposts than ever lead the way to adulthood in Vietnam, she is rooted to her career and loved ones. When asked about the ‘haters’ getting in her way, Kim dismisses the negativity immediately.

“I don’t think haters exist. I’m too busy with my stuff right now… rather than staying home and crying because someone talked bad about me.

The thing is, I don’t give a damn.”

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20 the year That Was

Best newcomers The good thing about a city sprinting towards development is that new businesses touch down at an almost hourly rate. Here are a few that really left a mark in 2011 and are sure to grow in popularity in 2012 PHOTOS BY AARON JOEL SANTOS THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem Mint slushies. They’re just the start of it.

When Hanoi Social Club landed in town last summer, it changed the daily routines for the city’s coffee-shop-hoppers and those not bound to office blocks. This hideout, which sits pleasantly on the edge of the Old Quarter, serves all purposes with an atmosphere that caters for social lunches, laptop stints and the type of vibe needed to get deep into a good book. There’s an earthy aura about the whole place, too, from the logo design and paper menus, to the plants in test tubes and thoughtful wood-theme design from Nguyen Qui Duc. The board games, comfy seating, lack of smoke, terrace, friendly staff and hearty food — not to mention the top quality coffee and slushy range — have turned this place into an institution in only a few months.

Live events are said to be on the cards for 2012.

BAR BETTA 34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Hanoi In a city filled with unused terraces, this new addition’s greatest asset rests on its roof.

While nostalgic flair slightly cramps the establishment’s interior, a steady growth in popularity and high quality croque madames have kept this place on our radar. Less untimely Christmas music and slightly better service may just transform this place from an occasional hang out to Hanoian staple in 2012.

CANOPEE 60 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem While Hanoi’s secret café era seems to have faded into oblivion, Canopee’s inhabitance of Puku’s former stomping grounds is a welcomed revival of the old. Remolded and refurnished with hardy wooden furniture on the second floor and comfortable couches on the third makes this lounge perfect for quiet drinks or low key meet ups with conversationalists.

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SOUTHGATE 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem This welcome restobar (pictured) has one eye on food lovers and another on those looking for something outside of the Old Quarter dives or ostentatious playgrounds of the nouveau riche.

Southgate’s chic minimal décor and ambiance is what makes it unique, and the staff are the type to remember your name after only a couple of visits. Weekend DJs, brunch and regular parties have put this place on the map, while facilitating late night conversations mandated by Food Street’s after-hours ethos. You won’t be paying Ta Hien prices, but proper cocktails, a diverse menu and good music, together with a thoughtfully refurbished colonial villa, means Southgate is a newcomer worth getting to know in the New Year.

FAT CAT BAR 25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Link Hanoi’s newest venture arrived on Ta Hien in the shape of Fat Cat Bar, which has to be up there with the best new arrivals in the Old Quarter. Fronted by charismatic pair Olivier and Fabio and equally friendly staff, and set over a ground floor and mezzanine, the good music and equal mix of residents and visitors means that this one next to Bia Hoi Junction has become a regular stop off for those doing the whole Old Quarter thing when the sun sinks.

NAMASTE HANOI 47 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem We’re yet to hear a bad word about the newest Indian restaurant in town. And we can taste why — the food from north and south India here is delightful, eaten in or delivered to your door, with every curry cooked using a different base of ingredients imported from India. The owner, Gopi, who has

been introducing the traditional clay tandoor oven to Hanoi’s Indian restaurant circuit since we can remember, has a talent of working out what you will like with just a few minutes of conversation. And his recommendations never disappoint.

While some say the minimal decor equates to a flat atmosphere, that’s only the case if your glass is half empty.

We say it’s fresh, clean and minimal, with the imported cutlery and decoration leaving sufficient room for the food from the four Indian chefs in the kitchen to do all the talking.

JACKSONS STEAKHOUSE 23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Set over three chic floors for all occasions — lounge bar, restaurant and boardroom — the newest venture from the Alfresco’s Group is definitely up there with its meatiest.

Serving imported beef from the USA, New Zealand and Australia in a range of cuts perfectly presented on the plate, Jacksons is for when the strips of cow in bun bon nam bo and lacklustre service just will not do. It's also worth a visit for the pizzas, pastas, salads and vast, well thought out wine list.

ONLINE FOOD vietnammm.com/eat.vn 2011 was the year for welcomed additions to cyberspace in the form of vietnammm.com and eatvn.com — two websites that, if you’re at home feeling idle, are the best thing since 56K dial up modems. Click on your city and district, pick a restaurant, choose your food, enter your details and wait for the doorbell.

It’s that simple. No credit cards or linguistic hurdles, all you need is hunger pains, an internet connection and some cash.

From fish and chips, to pizza, to tapas, Indian food and ice cream, it’s all there, and the list of restaurants using one or both of the innovative websites is getting longer by the month.

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best of the

blogs Despite its relatively small size, Hanoi attracts a range of bloggers.

Here’s the best of 2011,

THE CITY THAT NEVER SLEEPS IN www.thecitythatneversleepsin.com The City That Never Sleeps In highlights the wonder, beauty and occasional absurdity of everyday sights and happenings in Vietnam’s capital — combining sharp wit and insight with radical attention to surroundings. Through keenly observant eyes, Tabitha Carvan, who started the blog in 2009 when she moved to Hanoi to work for an Australian aid program, provides a perspective that is neither blindly positive nor unproductively critical. Posts often point to the humorous side of the city’s streets, from the mannequins, motorbike names, and inadvertent hipster fashion, to so much more that you can instantly relate to.

“Comedy gives you a way in to bring up the things that are otherwise inexpressible,” says the author. And in addition to the few cathartic bursts of laughter, her writing has a more enduring effect on perspective — after spending time scrolling through The City That Never Sleeps In, Hanoi can start to look like a different place.

PHOTASTIC USA! photasticusa.blogspot.com This blog by Hanoian Huyen Nguyen, who recently moved to the United States with her American husband, tracks her impressions of working, travelling and eating in the US and serves as an interesting window into Vietnamese culture.

OUR MAN IN HANOI ourmaninhanoi.com Steve Jackson’s two separate stints in Vietnam have run the gamut of a foreign resident’s experience, from the trials and desperations of fundraising for a charity to “the older, wiser and much more married” story of his life in a city that could be home forever. Our Man gives an honest look at life in Hanoi and life that could be lived anywhere, with all the anxieties and thrills that make the human experience such a

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dear one. In addition to its own merits, Our Man has proved a great resource for other Hanoi and Vietnam blogs.

DOOR TO MY KITCHEN Door2mykitchen.com Hanoi food wizard Chi Anh Dao opens up the door to her kitchen for us to watch, wiping the drool and stifling the ‘ummmmss’, as she details her creations of absolute beauty.

Chi Anh was born in Hanoi but spent most of her life abroad until coming back for good 12 months ago. She started the blog six months before returning to Vietnam to document her desire to cook as much as possible before her access to good ingredients was lost. Turns out she has managed just fine — the photos and recipes prove it; and if you really want to torture yourself check out the cupcake section. There’s talk of upcoming workshops in 2012 so you can magic them up from your own kitchen too.

HANOI INK Hanoiink.wordpress.com For an overview of what’s happening now as well as a helpful window into the history of Vietnamese literature, check out the guy who is getting his fingers dirty in Hanoi Ink. One of David Payne’s many Hanoi projects, his blog uses the medium of second-hand bookshops to include recent publishings, literature reviews, author bios and his own poetry translations.

HANOI EATS SARAH Sarita331.wordpress.com After leaving America and landing in Hanoi three years ago, Sarah started blogging almost immediately. Her writing is an honest portrait of someone making sense of moving to Vietnam on a whim and attempting to piece a life together.

Hanoi Eats Sarah provides entertaining stories, with insight into the self and Hanoi — good fodder for further thought.

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STRAIGHT OUTTA

HANOI Two well-known faces talk about their Hanoi-based enterprises that expanded beyond the capital’s borders in 2011 PHOTOS BY AARON JOEL SANTOS

DAN DOCKERY — HIGHWAY 4 Congratulations on opening Highway 4 in Ho Chi Minh City this year. We hear you’re also about to land in Hoi An. How did it all happen?

When we first opened Highway 4 [in 2000], the concept was very simple and we weren’t sure if it would take off. We tried to take something traditional, something popular, like the old tavern idea, the quan, and Son Tinh (Vietnamese rice spirits) and maintain it. There was a slowly developing middle class at that time. So we thought there was an opportunity for a higher-level restaurant that wasn’t top-end, not a five star, but a popular culture kind of restaurant.

It worked very well. It was steady at the beginning and by 2003 we opened the second restaurant, which was very popular. In late 2005, we really saw the opportunity to develop Highway 4 beyond the scope of two small restaurants in Hanoi. I wrote a franchising plan for 2006 to 2010 — we should have about 37 restaurants by now according to that plan! Then earlier this year, when we sat down with our restaurant management team, I said ‘ok this is the mission: we’re going to take Highway 4 and locate it in every urban centre in Vietnam within five years’. We finally opened in Saigon and now they’ve seen the plan for Hoi An. When I ask them [if they’re in on the mission], it’s not quite a yes, but they can see the direction we’re going in.

It’s important that we’ve got the feeling within — people are starting to realise they’re part of something much bigger.

From next year, we’ll start advertising the franchise package. I think it’s a good franchise model and can be very successful within Vietnam, and also overseas.

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“Feedback has been really positive so far,” says Jimmy.

“We never rely on the ‘please come and support us because we’re a charity’, I think we’re relying on our own credit; good food, great service… while giving the restaurant in Saigon the flexibility to find its own identity”

So you’re looking at regional expansion too?

Our initial goal is to become a nationwide brand. We have received applications for franchises in Thailand, Malaysia, Philippines, England, Portugal, America, and four different applications from Egypt. It’s not our primary goal, but it doesn’t mean that we're not open to interest.

So when you started this restaurant did you ever imagine you would be getting franchise applications from Egypt?

No, I was desperate to get out of restaurants! My parents were in restaurants and hotels when I was a kid and I learned that it destroys your life. It takes up all your time. It upsets family relationships and friendships. Yeah, it’s complete hell, so I was desperate to get away… But I enjoyed Vietnamese food and drink, and it was a very underdeveloped culinary culture here at the time [1997]… If you enjoy it, you get a lot out of it.

Vietnam has a reputation of being a difficult place for franchises to develop. Do you find this to be true? If so, why?

The legislation related to franchising is phenomenal — absolutely perfect. The franchise law is very detailed. The protection of copyright and intellectual property rights is very clear. The implementation is undeveloped. So that’s where it destroys a lot of confidence in terms of foreign brands coming into Vietnam. There’s also such a big copycat culture here. People are very good at following. But it’s not a lack of creativity — people here are quite creative but they just see what works and are happy to jump on the back of that. They’re not so accustomed to trying something untested. Which is one reason why I think the franchise concept could be popular here. The mentality here is ‘Ok it works then let’s get involved’.

— Interview by David Stout

JIMMY PHAM — KOTO VIETNAM “You know, when I had the first trainees at the new centre in Saigon I started breaking down a little bit,” says Jimmy Pham, the Vietnamese-Australian founder of not-for-profit restaurant and vocational training program, KOTO Vietnam (Know One Teach One).

“It was a very emotional time because we’ve gone full circle — when I first came to Vietnam, my first encounter with street kids was in Saigon. Then about five years ago, when I went back to the same street, one kid, who could no longer grow because of a severe heart condition, took me on a tour of the area. He told me that some of the kids I had met before were now dead or single parents. It was a heartbreaking journey for me and made me want to start [KOTO] in the south.”

The social business opened its second restaurant amid the bright lights of Ho Chi Minh City in October 2011. The twostory restaurant in District 3, like that on Hanoi’s Van Mieu Street, has an open kitchen and bricks in the wall labeled with names of supporting organisations. While the food served in Hanoi is traditional and international, the dishes being crafted in the south are ‘a lot more fusion’, says Jimmy, who also sees the difference in clientele: KOTO Hanoi mainly caters for tourists, but the main support in Ho Chi Minh City is currently coming from the foreign residents.

“Feedback has been really positive so far,” says Jimmy.

“We never rely on ‘please come and support us because we’re a charity’, I think we’re relying on our own credit; good food, great service… while giving the restaurant in Saigon the flexibility to find its own identity.”

The 24-month hospitality and English language training programme has so far seen 325 students graduate nationwide — many of whom have gone from living a disadvantaged life to working in top flight domestic and international hospitality industries. It began with Jimmy in 1996, when he opened a small sandwich shop in Hanoi to give employment to street children he had been sponsoring.

“I was working as a tour guide travelling around Vietnam for four years, looking after kids out of my own income — through accommodation and schooling. When they said they appreciate my help but really needed a job, that’s how the concept of KOTO Hanoi began.”

According to Jimmy, it grew organically in the capital, first with nine students, then 20 and then 30. But in Ho Chi Minh City, the first intake of students was 25 and development has been quicker — already over 150 students have been trained in 18 months since the school opened.

Now that the restaurant is ready, KOTO’s Ho Chi Minh City students are busy applying their training to the real world.

— Interview by Ian Paynton

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in images: north to south From the northernmost province of Ha Giang to the southernmost island of Phu Quoc, Aaron Joel Santos documents Vietnam as he saw it in 2011

AS A PHOTOGRAPHER, AARON JOEL Santos has been lucky enough to travel the length and breadth of Vietnam. Forever photogenic and with sights unique to this country, the north serves up rolling hills, ethnic minority markets and portraitperfect moments. Photos from Hue, Danang, Con Dao and Phu Quoc show marble work, fishermen, historical sites and the laid back life of a tourist.

The images on these two pages present a snapshot of Vietnam in 2011, outside the limits of the big city.

Above and right: Motorbike rides in Son La, portraits in Ninh Binh, farmers in Ha Giang and urban farmers in Hanoi

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Above and right: Fishing and former prisons in Con Dao, marble sculptures in Danang, hotels and goldfish in Hue and hammocks on Phu Quoc island

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destination pf the year Certain spots got even more popular among tourists and adventurers in 2011. Here is our top five

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC / CARSTEN PETER

PHOTOS BY AARON JOEL SANTOS

FANTASY ISLAND Con Dao is not new to visitors. For well over a decade its location in the middle of the East Sea inspired travellers to board the twice weekly, tiny, twin-engine turboprop planes for the 45-minute journey into the unknown. The hardier would take another route, the overnight ferry from Vung Tau. But it is only in the past year, and in particular since the opening of the five-star, Six Senses Con Dao, that the former prison colony has really opened up to visitors from both Vietnam and overseas.

It’s remote, and with so much of the archipelago protected from human encroachment, this one-road outpost remains wild. Even people are scarce. The beaches out of the main town and fishing port area are clean and untouched, and there are at least three known diveable shipwrecks, over 50 dive sites and numerous walking trails through the national park.

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WORLD HERITAGE TOWN

RECORD-BREAKING CAVES

Outside of Vietnam’s two major cities, Hoi An remains the country’s most visited tourist site, and for good reason. The only town that has been properly restored in the whole of Vietnam, when it comes to aesthetics, culture, clothes shopping, the beach and nightlife, Hoi An still tops the list. While so much of the architecture in Vietnam is of the modern age, Hoi An has glorified its overseas-influenced, seafaring past. It was once the most important trading port on the eastern seaboard.

That close-by Danang can now add itself to the tourist itinerary of those visiting Hoi An says much for the development in the area of the past five years. Despite the destruction and reconstruction, the beach, stretching from Son Tra peninsular in the north all the way to Cua Dai in Hoi An in the south, still has great sand and sea. And the resorts that now reside on this patch of sand are among the best in Vietnam, and according to Conde Naste Traveller are among some of the best in the world.

In 2010, National Geographic photographer Carsten Peter together with a team of British and Vietnamese explorers journeyed into the depths of Hang Son Doong to capture images of what is now recognised as both the largest and longest cave in the world.

Located in the jungle remoteness of Phong Nha-Ke Bang national park in Quang Binh — three hours north of Hue — portions of this cave are so extensive that they could fit a New York City-style block of skyscrapers and an airplane inside. As of yet, Vietnam has been unable to exploit the tourism potential of this site. Phong Nha-Ke Bang national park, whose limestone karsts resemble a Halong Bay on land, is already open, with thousands of tourists annually taking the riverboat trip down the Son River into the depths of Hang Tien (Tien Cave) but, unfortunately, the largest underground grotto in the world — Hang Son Doong — is presently off the itinerary.

AND DON’T FORGET… KHANH HOA AND PHU YEN Nha Trang has it all — nightlife, seafood, top-draw accommodation, amusement parks and eco resorts. And if you’re prepared to travel, the countryside and coastline, particularly to the north and in Phu Yen, is full of great beaches, uninhabited coves and natural wonders.

THE DONG VAN HIGHLANDS Tourism infrastructure is non-existent, but this UNESCO-recognised geological site in the northernmost part of Ha Giang Province is probably the most spectacular drive in Vietnam. It’s otherworldly, humbling and very real — with 20 ethnic minorities living in the area, who simply get on with life as you pass by; no shows, homestays or “you buy for me” sales pitches. But be prepared to rough it. The overnight bus from Hanoi to Ha Giang City takes six hours. From there it’s a further 150km drive by bike to Dong Van.

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the unsung

HANOIan While most steam forward in search of personal gain, founder of Vietnam’s first Breast Cancer Club, Dr. Linh Nguyen, speaks to Karryn Miller about her dedication in supporting Hanoi’s cancer patients PHOTO BY DOMINIC BLEWETT IT’S HARD NOT TO FEEL DISPIRITED WHEN WALKING into the National Cancer Hospital on Quan Su Street. A mass of people squat at its entrance and inside it’s not much different. The grounds and corridors of the aging buildings are spilling over with patients waiting for their turn for cancer treatment.

As I make my way through the crowd I spot Dr. Linh Nguyen, somehow sporting a welcoming smile. Despite working seven days a week here, she still looks fresh-faced and optimistic.

According to research conducted by the International Atomic Energy Agency, each year in Vietnam 75,000 people die of cancer and 150,000 new cases are diagnosed. These figures are expected to rise by 25 percent by 2020.

It is exactly this statistic the 37-year-old doctor aims to reverse.

Linh went to the United States in 2005 to study with her mentor Dr. James Wood, a breast surgeon at Milwaukee General and Vascular Surgery. It was during her three months abroad that she began working with cancer survivors and became interested in the support networks they had created. She felt that her patients in Vietnam would gain strength and knowledge from a group like the survivor clubs she saw and in 2008 she helped form the Breast Cancer Club (BCC) — the first of its kind in Vietnam.

On the last Saturday of each month for the last four years, up to 100 cancer patients, caregivers, survivors and volunteers have met to discuss the disease that for many of its victims in Vietnam is still obscure.

“Around 80 percent of our patients come from rural areas,” explains Linh. Due to a lack of money and education about the disease in the countryside, patients don’t normally make it to the hospital until the illness is at an advanced stage — and when they arrive they often bring with them a host of misconceptions.

Each time the group meets, Linh, the group’s cofounder and breast cancer survivor Huong Phung Thi, together with a group of volunteers all try to reduce these misunderstandings and equip BCC members with tools and strategies to beat the disease.

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“Around 30 out of every 100,000 women in Hanoi will suffer from breast cancer,” says Dr. Linh. And when asked why she chose this fight, she explains, “women hold families and society together” In late 2011, the survivors learned a more holistic approach to dealing with cancer’s physical and emotional stresses from a group of women from around the world.

Each brought with them their different speciality — massage, acupuncture, yoga, nutrition, pilates, reiki and dance therapy — with the hope that they could help survivors find a little more balance and relieve some of the pain in their lives.

Besides the new and improved monthly meetings, Linh and the BCC team also organise field trips. “We bring gifts like brightly coloured scarves for chemotherapy patients and simple plastic breast prostheses to cancer patients out of the city,” says Linh. For Children’s Day in June the group held a puppetry performance for children with cancer at the hospital. “Some had never seen puppets before. They loved it!”

Linh reaches out to people with other types of cancer too, but her focus is still on this form of the disease that is the leading cause of cancer death among women.

“Around 30 out of every 100,000 women in Hanoi will suffer from breast cancer,” she says. And when asked why she chose this fight, Linh explains, “women hold families and society together”.

This dedicated doctor and the club’s other volunteers are encouraged to continue with what they started when they see the same people keep coming back to their gatherings month after month — often with other victims and survivors in tow.

“I see that we are having an impact through the smiles of people at our meetings,” says Linh. “That immediate reaction is my feedback that our work is making a difference.”

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to watch in

2012

GoLim. After only a few gigs around town, it's clear that this current collection of rockers — Nhi leading vocals, Trang Chuoi and Ngoc on guitar, My on the bass, and Bom behind drums — has landed on something right, writes Kaitlin Rees PHOTOS BY AARON JOEL SANTOS

THIS BAND HAS BEEN AROUND FOR FOUR YEARS, BUT THE addition of Nhi and her brother Bom have injected a more mature sound that is starting to turn heads and bounce them all over dance floors. A little sneak peak into a rehearsal is enough to hook a fan for life.

“Theoretically we start at 10am. But it swings a bit because it’s early,”explains Trang Chuoi, founder of GoLim, as she slices fruit for the group. “We just moved to this new studio and it’s much more relaxed,” which makes sense given the new space is on the top floor of Nhi and Bom’s family house.

After a few cigarettes, sips of tea and wake-up stretches, the band is ready to begin. They cross the hall into a room with walls covered in mustard-yellow eggshell crates and the five members find their places and instruments. The studio floor — puzzle piece-like colourful foam padding — is reminiscent of a kindergarten playroom. And in that same world of childlike fun, the band jokes with each other right until the count of three that commences a few solid drum beats before an eruption of an electric guitar riff.

Nhi on the mic maintains the same kind of relaxed and playful energy as she starts to sing. Consulting her lyrics sheet and taking a few drags on her cigarette, she exhales right as the song drops like a giant waterfall crashing on rocks. The change in sound coincides with a shift in energy in the room as Nhi begins to wail with a powerful, primal spirit that sends shivers through the core. And what is she wailing about? A hungry kitten.

“We’ve got a western influenced sound to our music, but our lyrics are very local, very Vietnamese, very near to daily life,” she says.

If you haven't felt transformed by a live music concert in a while, well, prepare yourself. GoLim is focusing on building up a bigger base of songs that will take them to the recording studio and, hopefully, to the road.

Catch them in 2012 while they are here because this band could well be going places.

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THE METROPOLIS

DOWN SO That never-say-go-to-bed city in the south of Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh City, has got a lot to offer for anyone needing a break from the capital — especially if you’re looking for nightlife and great cuisine.

WORDS BY NICK ROSS

SPEAK TO HANOIANS AND MANY TREAT THEIR southern, younger brother of a city with disdain. And it's with reason. When it comes to visual, aesthetic pleasures, Saigon gets nowhere close to the capital. But for nightlife, good quality Vietnamese and international cuisine, and an alternative vibe, a weekend trip to Saigon can be fun, and a nice tonic to the chaos of Hanoi.

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PHOTO BY GALEN STOLEE

Sights Amid Sounds Don’t get us wrong here. When it comes to noise pollution, Hanoi sits pretty high on the Richter scale.

But Ho Chi Minh City seems to outdo even our beloved capital by the odd decibel or two, especially during rush hour. So to escape, head up to the Saigon Skydeck in the Bitexco Financial Tower. Located 50 floors or so above street level and presently the highest completed building in Vietnam, the sweeping views here make Saigon look like a place at peace with itself, until you get back down to ground level.

Saigon South (Phu My Hung) is another get-awayfrom-the-chaos alternative. It’s Ho Chi Minh City’s equivalent of My Dinh, and once you get off the District 4 arteries leading to this District 7 mega-suburb, the dust and incessant noise disappear, the air clears and the highrises sprout. The developments are well conceived here, too, with lots of parks and general greenery, well thought out highways and road structures, and the ultimate jewel in the urban planning crown — The Crescent (Ho Ban Nguyet). Set on one side of a lake with abundant greenery in the background, this futuristic-looking area is not complete yet, but there are enough leafy walks, cafes, restaurants, shopping options and bars to make this a nice destination for an afternoon away — especially at

Opposite (from top): The octopus salad at Lisboa Cafe and French bistro-style cuisine at Traders; Above: The Bitexco Financial Tower

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sunset when the heat cools and the evening walkers come out.

Back in town, the park around Le Duan street with its towering, French-planted trees offers some solace. It borders the Reunification Palace and the cathedral, too, making it a good location to soak up some history. And on one side of Han Thuyen sits Au Parc, a French-run, Mediterraneanstyle café that serves up the kind of quality, creative café-style cuisine that its northern compadres could only dream of. Try the gargantuan salads and the wraps. Opposite is the Diamond Plaza, the decade-old department store replete with a food court, cinema and gaming centre.

Two bars and restaurants up high offer great drinks and cuisine, and even greater views. Leading the pack, at least in terms of mid to top-end contemporary European cuisine, is Shri. Situated on the 23rd floor of the Centec Tower just behind Diamond Plaza on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, get a nighttime seat out on the terrace for cooler air and wide angles of the cityscape below. But for the real bar with a view, and in this instance we’re talking an open-air, lightbox sky bar, the recently opened Chill is a stunner. Prices are on the high-end — you’re genuinely paying for location, here — but it’s a place to be impressed by. Located next to the New World

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Hotel on the 26th and 27th floor of the AB Building, Chill has got exclusivity written all over it. No shorts and flip-flops allowed.

Nourishment Hanoi’s street food is unbeatable. Sorry, Saigon, you don’t even come close. But when it comes to restaurants, it’s Ho Chi Minh City that’s leading the way. A few areas here are worth a visit for those looking for a bit of choice. Packing in anything from Lebanese and Indian to traditional Vietnamese, alley 71 off Mac Thi Buoi offers up the full gamut in a tiny space. Close by off Hai Ba Trung next to the Park Hyatt is The Courtyard, otherwise known as alley 74. Opening out onto a square-like, colonial-built space that once housed the city’s opium refinery, here you have terraced-style seating and a range of restaurants and bars to match. Jaspa’s Wine and Grill starts the selection before falling into Vino next door, a wine retailer also with an outdoor wine-drinking terrace and great tapas. Then comes the French, bistro-style Refinery, one of the city’s most popular restaurants, before you come across party venue Vasco’s with its great pizzas and upstairs bar and lounge area. Finishing the selection is the Indochine-style and tastefully decorated Hoa Tuc, without doubt one of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town.

PHOTO BY NICK ROSS

PHOTO BY NICK ROSS

Left: Vasco's, one of the best known events venues in town; Above: The Crescent in Saigon South

Above: Looking back in upon the 26th-floor Chill SkyBar at the top of the AB Tower

Back on the main drag head down the hill and turn into Nguyen Sieu. Here you will find the Argentinean steakhouse El Gaucho, which serves up what have to be some of the best steaks in town. Back on Hai Ba Trung in its corner location is Spanish tapas bar and bodegas Pacharan. Live music and an on-the-terrace DJ take over this venue on Wednesdays and Thursdays. And a couple of doors down you come to the oddly named Blanchy’s Tash. A three-floor venue with a bar on the ground level and a second watering hole on the upstairs terrace, this is presently one of the most popular, if not more expensive, bars in town. In January they will start serving up South American / Japanese fusion cuisine put together by a chef who worked for six years at Nobu in London. One to watch out for.

Head further towards the river and turn right into Dong Du. Here there is another interesting selection of restaurants and the city’s central mosque Jamia Al Muslimin, which houses the most unusual dining location on the street. Serving up MalayIndian hybrid cuisine, this down-to-earth canteen-style venue is the place to go for your rotis and curries, but best get here for lunch. Also on Dong Du is ZanZBar with its casual but seriously tasty mid to top-end international fare in a bar setting. Portions are

huge, too. Three Halal restaurants add to the mix, which includes the excellent Japanese eatery Dragon Noodle, one more MalayIndian restaurant, The Bombay, and the soon-to-open restobar, Zero. There is also the recently opened Ciao Bella, a New York-style Italian run by well-known chef Tony Fox. And for anyone who is missing Bobby Chinn since he moved to Saigon, his latest gastronomic venture is located in Kumho Link (corner of Le Duan and Dong Du) just above that most generic of restobars, Hard Rock Café. It’s a sleek, attractive space, but new on the scene here, it’s hard to know if he’ll hit it off with the Ho Chi Minh City locals with the same panache as he did with Hanoians. A German restobar chain called Brotzeit has moved into the same plaza as has a contemporary Thai fusion joint called Koh Thai to sit alongside Singaporean Lion City, a Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf and a hotpot restaurant.

Nightlife For anyone who wants to get their beers and food the budget way, then the best area to go to is around Pham Ngu Lao, Bui Vien and De Tham, also known as The Pham. It’s a bit seedy and you’ll need to watch your phone, wallet and bag, too, as there are thefts and ride-n’-grabs aplenty, but a night out in this

area isn’t going to break the wallet — unless you lose it. And it goes on till late, too.

Standout drinking and eating venues are the sports bar, The Spotted Cow (111 Bui Vien, Q1), Lam Café and its sister venue Hello Saigon (175 Bui Vien, Q1), the Indian restaurant Baba’s Kitchen (164 Bui Vien, Q1), the American deli-style Zoom Café (169A De Tham, Q1) and the live music venue-cum-Vietnamese-style café Thi Café (224 De Tham, Q1). Also, down one of the alleyways is Le Pub (175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1) and one of the best restaurants in the area, the excellent Margherita (175/1 Pham Ngu Lao). At 171 Pham Ngu Lao is Vietnam’s first Subway.

The best bar area in town, though, is behind Old Market and takes over four streets — Ton That Thiep, Pasteur, Ho Tung Mau and Ton That Dam. Ladies in the house may get a little rattled by the hostess-focused likes of M52, Secrets, Voodoo and Moon Bar, the Saigon version of the formerly notorious Relax Bar in Hanoi. But there are also some more wholesome watering holes here including Phatty’s, The Drunken Duck, the wine bar Qing, the excellent diner-cumbistro Elbow Room, the American-style Mogambo’s, Number Five and, to cap it off, one of the best contemporary restaurants in town, Flow Saigon (88 Ho Tung Mau, Q1).

The Word December 2011 | 55

THE LAS T PATCH Despite the goal of keeping 70 percent of extended Hanoi open and natural, there are fears that developments will swallow up the remaining green space of central My Dinh.

Words by Nick Ross

DOMINIC BLEWETT

PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

A DECADE AGO WHERE THE alleyways and charmless concrete of Cau Giay came to an end, the paddy fields and swampy wastelands began. In the hazy distance the construction had already started — high rises and a soon-to-be national stadium began sprouting from a carpet of green.

Head back now and the fabled Keangnam Tower is close to completion.

The open space all around it has been swallowed without mercy into the vast colossus we now call My Dinh. It’s a dusty, precarious Bangkok-to-be of a place, full of Babel-like buildings, car washes, construction sites and empty shopping centres. Even the garden-like Me Tri area, with its mock colonial, greenshuttered buildings, has a film of dirt coating its already not-so-fresh veneer. It’s a city in the making. But as unfinished as it is, it has a Wild West feel to it and is yet to find its soul.

Diagonally behind Keangnam, one area of swampy greenery has yet to be consumed — it’s the last patch of remaining farmland in central My Dinh.

A concrete-banked canal runs through its wild façade, as do unfinished gravel paths and a scattering of well and not-so-well trodden trails. Time, or rather unfettered construction, has forgotten this Central Park of a place. For now at least.

“It will go in a few years,” says 50-yearold Son, one of the area’s settlers who lives in a semi-shanty, semi-brick collection of houses on the edge of the greenery. He works shifts on Keangnam, which will be the country’s tallest building, and is proud of his role in constructing this monolith.

When this farmland disappears he will get compensation. “Not from the

"Holding the developers at arms length is not an easy task, especially in the atmosphere of a Wild West free-for-all"

developers,” he explains, “but from the authorities”.

Hung Drawn and…

Walking through the greenery, along the trails avoiding the marsh, butterflies flitter from plant to plant. Birds, invisible to the naked eye, warble among the trees, and a conical-hatted, hoe-carrying woman takes advantage of the fertile soil found in these swamps. While in her shadow stand the new developments, she is cultivating water spinach and other edibles from out of the wasteland. It’s a living of sorts. Not much, but enough to make her efforts worthwhile. But unless she wins the lottery or gets ample compensation for the land she will soon lose, she will never find a roof over her head in the apartment blocks beyond.

A bridge appears down on the canal and a path leads through the undergrowth

to a gated, barbed-fenced-off building with pagoda-yellow walls. Built before the present construction boom, it seems to act as a water storage facility, although there is no signage to confirm the guess. Back along the canal’s banks another bridge appears, this time with a muddy track running across it, dissecting the park.

While the canal runs all the way through to Ton That Thuyet, the track divides this teardrop-shaped patch of greenery into quarters.

Down the path construction sites appear as do more collections of shanty and a wood mill. A woman, bicycle parked on the track, rummages through rubble looking for recyclables. “I live 10km away,” she says as she gropes through the dirt. If she’s lucky, from recycling she can make VND30,000 a day. It’s a thankless task and “not enough to feed [her] family”.

Nearby groups of men lounge around in makeshift cafes hidden behind the trees smoking thuoc lao, drinking coffee and downing rice wine. Their laughter breaks the silence. And then the roar of the traffic returns as the track ends, coming out on the main drag, Pham Hung. In the middle of this dusty highway the construction of the Sukhumvit-style train line is already in full flow.

My Dinh, for all its construction, has yet to furnish itself with a completed park.

Keeping the new city green, it seems, will be a challenge. Holding the developers at arms length is not an easy task, especially in the atmosphere of a Wild West free-forall. There has already been encroachment on the remaining green space but the hope here is that, despite statements to the contrary, the last patch of farmland next to Keangnam will become the new city’s Central Park. But only time will tell.

The Word December 2011 | 59

Protect YOUr

NECK As winter approaches so do cold motorcycle journeys and chilly buildings — it would be a crime not to have one eye on your scarf selection. Range compiled by Hoa Le and Kaitlin Rees.

Photos by Aaron Joel Santos

5. Sheer Black and Red Peacock Spread

2

Made of: Linen Price: VND130,000 Where: 259 Doi Can, Ba Dinh

6. Classic Camo Made of: Rayon By: French Connection UK Price: VND750,000 Where: FCUK, 2nd floor, Hang Da Galleria, Hoan Kiem

7

7. The Tulip Silk Path

1

Made of: Silk By: Talbot Runhof Price: VND7,170,000 Where: Luala, 61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

3 9

8. Grey Faux Fur Latticed Pom Pom Scarf

1. The Colourful Fantasy

Made of: synthetic materials Price: VND200,000 Where: Wings, 293 Doi Can, Ba Dinh

Made of: Silk By: Escada Price: VND11,480,000 Where: Escada, 61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

9. Avocado Granny Chic Neck Throw

2. Black and White Ethnic Minority Hand Woven Shawl

Made of: Wool Price: VND290,000 Where: Boho Chic, 63 Van Bao, Ba Dinh

Made of: Cotton Price: VND200,000 Where: Guest House 15, Lac Village, Mai Chau

8

4 3. Elegant Embroidery

11. The Peacock Dance

4. Red Berry Contemporary Native American Snow Bird

60 | The Word December 2011

10. The Flower Garden Made of: Kashmir and silk By: Talbot Runhof Price: VND18,150,000 Where to find: Luala, 61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

Made of: Silk By: Valentino Garavani Price: VND 32,745,000 Where: Valentino, 59 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

Made of: Wool Price: VND170,000 Where: I [heart] Luna, 65 Doi Can, Ba Dinh

10

5

6

11

Made of: Cotton By: French Connection UK Price: VND950,000 Where: FCUK, 2nd floor, Hang Da Galleria, Hoan Kiem

The Word December 2011 | 61

MYSTERY DINER

STREET SNACKER

The Brazilian Odyssey

With Christmas and New Year approaching, our secret reviewer can’t help but indulge in the finest of meat cuts — and plenty of them.

Photos by Dominic Blewett AH, BRAZIL. SUN-BLEACHED Copacabana Beach, an entire fruit-bowl on Carmen Miranda’s head, the easy hipsway of the samba, the cool, dulcet tones of the jazzy bossa nova swing and the 1970 Brazilian World Cup winning team. Well, the only dribbling going on at Au Lac Brazil was the copious drooling as myself and

62 | The Word December 2011

my dining companions eased our meatsweated faces away from the table. Such is the quantity of meat on offer here.

The churrascaria is a simple Brazilian concept — a restaurant that serves barbequed meat, where you take a pew and let lavish amounts of varied goodies land on your plate in a never-ending procession.

Considering this restaurant has probably notched up some six or seven years of service, it is impeccably decorated.

Undoubtedly we were still sitting in a refurbished French colonial villa, but the cream walls, dark wood furniture, brilliant white table clothes and vivid oil paintings hinted at its Brazilian themed roots.

In a sense, the churrascaria experience is an uncomplicated thing to deliver, but of course the key is in the quality of the meat. Having deigned to sample some passable Caesar salad and give a mere glance to the red herring bread rolls that stood untouched on a side plate, it was with great relief that I began this marathon with some delectable grilled sausages, which when presented on a metre-long spit seemed to resemble shotgun cartridges arranged bandoleer-style.

Its Brazilian authenticity might have been questionable, but they probably ranked among some of the best bangers I’ve had in Vietnam. A rich, dense, reddened pork sausage, lacking in gristle and deep in salty flavours.

Next was the beef topside, charred outside, but thankfully a rich, ruby-rare on the inside.

With little time to rest, the next dish made its way to our table: squid wrapped in bacon and this, like the topside, was a hit — salty and crispy bacon with perfectly cooked pearlywhite chunks of squid.

The yard-long spears of meat and fish kept coming, as did the rump steak, chicken wings, basa fish and prawns wrapped

Phillip Turo and the Order of the Perching Duck

in bacon and pork ribs. If anything, the dishes were served too quickly and one of my fellow diners complained that he could barely tell the difference between the various slices of animal now piling up on his plate.

The rump steak was top quality, but I found both the chicken wings and the pork ribs a touch disappointing. The chicken seemed to have lost its texture, and felt heavily overcooked. The same could be said for the pork ribs, a little tough and nothing in the way of seasoning to pep them up. In fact, that could be described as a common complaint — the sole condiments available were Dijon mustard and a below average mushroom sauce, while the pretty much neglected salads were blessed with three varieties of dressing.

Not put off, we continued our carnivore odyssey, delighting in a fantastically slow cooked shoulder of beef encrusted in herbs, which I’m inclined to think ran the rump steak a close race for flavour.

The apparently Brazilian favourite of ham shoulder and pineapple didn’t fire me up, but perhaps with a little more time, the pineapple might have benefited from additional caramelisation. I’m not generally a fan of sweet flavours in savoury dishes, but those who choose the Hawaiian option at their favourite pizzeria will enjoy this combo.

As the meal staggered to a close I was reminded of the Monty Python sketch where a French waiter attempts to entice an obese diner on the verge of exploding to carry on eating: “monsieur, a wafer-thin mint? Oh sir! It's only a tiny, little, thin one”. And like the customer in the sketch, we couldn’t resist the delicate, small ceramic pot of creamy, innocent passion fruit mousse to complete our evening. We had two each.

Such gluttony doesn’t come cheap, but with Christmas and New Year approaching, Au Lac Brazil offers enough justification to shell out VND530,000 per head and cover the 10 percent VAT and five percent service charge that are appended to the bill.

Au Lac Brazil 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh.

Tel: 3845 5224.

THE VERDICT Food: 8 Décor : 8 Service: 8 The Word reviews restaurants anonymously and pays for all meals

MANY CENTURIES AGO, IN 1987, THERE was a large grassy space on which nothing stood, except grass. According to legend, it had always been thus. But things changed, and in dramatic fashion.

One afternoon during one of the four seasons the people of this land had decided to divide their years into, there came a noise from the ground, quiet at first, then growing ever louder until a great rumbling, crashing sound soaked the air. People scattered, running blindly, hopelessly into one another as the mystery approached, knowing not from what they fled, shrieking and gibbering like hens.

The ground shook like bad jelly. At last there was a deafening scream and the large grassy space burst open. Rocks, sprays of mud, sewage, and globules of sizzling magma erupted from the hole and showered down on the heads of the terrified citizens. And after this, dimly at first through the clearing haze, a form took shape, and there emerged from the earth a mighty duck.

Open-mouthed, the people stared at the massive fowl. The fowl stared back, each of its shining black eyes as big as a bicycle wheel. The duck blinked. The people did not. The duck pushed its beak under one white-tipped wing and rooted around.

For what? The people did not know. They scratched their heads.

“So qua!” said one woman.

“Ngon lam,” replied an elderly man.

The duck shook its head and opened its beak. It quacked, a terrible sound. Imagine a warehouse filled with Pavarottis, all of

them sucking on helium balloons, and now imagine the moment each of them is simultaneously hoofed in the back with an anvil: it was much like that. The clucking subsided and the people let their hands fall from their ears. But at that moment a blood-curdling battle-cry came from behind them. The people turned to see a young woman, Hong, rushing towards them, her mouth open, wielding a sword, which belonged to her grandfather. She ran through the crowd and stopped in front of the giant duck, unleashing another cry and viciously slicing at the air in front of it. The duck was unmoved.

Hong sheathed her sword and took up her bow. From a quiver on her back she selected a young bamboo shoot, placed it against the rest and drew the string taut.

The mighty fowl blinked and tilted its head. The people looked on, hardly daring to breathe. One old man, in prophetic anticipation, salivated, licking his lips.

Suddenly, Hong dropped to one knee, took aim and fired six bamboo shoots into the beast’s feathery breast. It threw its head back and clucked in agony.

In a trice, Hong was upon it. Sword in hand she flung herself at the fowl, scaled its breast and was soon straddling its glossy neck. In one fluid movement she drew her sword across its throat then unfastened a bladder from her belt and held it next to the wound to catch the thick blood pulsing out of the dying bird. Grimly she held on as the duck twitched and bucked violently beneath her. Its webbed feet kicked up stinging clouds of dust.

At last, the fowl fell, slowly, soundlessly, and, when all life had left its body, Hong climbed to the ground. She fastened the neck of the now full, warm bladder. She whistled, and four women trotted across the road bearing cooking utensils, tables and small stools. Another followed behind, pushing a cart laden with bowls, chopsticks and steaming vats of broth. Quickly, the women plucked the humungous fowl, scrubbed it clean and began to remove vast portions of flesh. They set up the tables and stools around the bird. Then slowly, and in awestruck silence, the people shuffled towards it, sat down and reverently gave their orders to Hong. And the people ate.

They still eat today from 5pm to approximately 11pm, seven days a week Bun/Mien Ngan — rice noodles with bamboo and mighty perching duck — VND30,000 or VND40,000 with breast meat, or VND50,000 with the juiciest, meatiest cuts Tiet Canh (blood soup) — VND15,000 Tiet Luoc (steamed blood cubes) — VND20,000 For various reasons, Mrs Hong doesn’t want her address printed, but if you’d like to try some of the very best bun/mien ngan this city has to offer, please write to editor@wordhanoi.com and we’ll give you the directions The Word December 2011 | 63

business LEONITO

Business Listings

city guide

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING 065 ADVERTISING & MARKETING 065 BUSINESS CONSULTING 066 BUSINESS GROUPS 066 COPYWRITING 066 CORPORATE GIFTS 066 HOUSING & REAL ESTATE 066 INSURANCE 066 INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS 066

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING BEVERLY INVESTMENT B003A, B Building, The Manor, My Dinh Tel: 794 9669 www.beverly.vn Professional investment company dealing with real estate resort, hotel and senior housing projects all over the country.

Working to promote sustainable development, Beverly provides good value for its partners, investors, customers and society.

TMF GROUP 8th floor, 53 Quang Trung, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3944 9733 39A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 2220 2660 Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang Street, District 1, HCMC Tel: 3910 2262 www.tmf-group.com TMF is headquartered in The Netherlands, with over 86 offices in 65 countries. Provides accounting, tax and payroll services.

Also specialises in helping international investors establish a presence in Vietnam.

This includes services such as incorporation of companies and representative offices, opening of bank accounts, licensing and tax stamps.

KPMG 16th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem . Tel: 3946 1600 www.kpmg.com.vn Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also does executive search and selection.

PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS 7th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem . Tel: 3946 2246 www.pwc.com Provides business services including au-

INVESTMENT & FINANCE 067 LANGUAGE SCHOOLS 067 LEGAL SERVICES 067 MANAGEMENT TRAINING 068 MARKET RESEARCH 068 PUBLIC 068 RECRUITMENT & HR 068 RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS 068 SERVICED APARTMENTS 068

10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.leonito.com In addition to their own clients, Leonito works in partnership with the Grey Group, a major full-spectrum marketing and communications company with offices in nearly 100 countries. Services include research, branding, activations, events and public relations.

OGILVY & MATHER 8/F Tien Phong Newspaper Building, 15 Ho Xuan Huong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3822 3914 www.ogilvy.com International marketing communications company that leverages the brands of multinational clients by combining local know-how with a worldwide network.

Works to create powerful campaigns that

address local market needs while still reinforcing universal brand identity.

T&A COMMUNICATIONS 104 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3822 3913 T&A is a marketing services company set up in Hanoi in 1995. Since then, they’ve offered their marketing services to several large overseas companies. They also work in co-operation with WPP, a world-wide brand communications firm.

LEONITO MARKETING CONSULTING 10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co Street, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.leonito.com Leonito develops marketing campaigns & behaviour change communications strategies for commercial brands and nongovernment organizations. Services: brand

diting, business and technology solutions and tax and legal consulting. Has more than ten years experience in Vietnam and works in all major industry sectors throughout the country.

THANG LONG AUDITING COMPANY 313 Pho Hue, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 4976 2055 A Vietnamese company with more than 30 representative branches outside of Hanoi, Thang Long provides a full range of services, including audit, accounting, tax, corporate secretarial and business consultancy.

TMF VIETNAM COMPANY LIMITED 2811, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: 3910 922 www.tmf-group.com With over 3,300 professionals working out of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide. TMF is expanding rapidly throughout the world. Learn more about our unique network and our services by visiting our website.

ADVERTISING & MARKETING GREY GROUP 10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.grey.com/vietnam Founded in 1917 in New York, Grey is a full spectrum global communications company offering branding, advertising, marketing, digital, and PR, with offices in 100 countries. Grey is the only agency with a specialised HoReCa team.

In Vietnam the client roster includes Vinaphone, Levis, TNT, ESPN, Bayer, Samsung Mobile, BaoViet, P&G, BAT, and 35 other top local and international brands.

Business Listings 065 Destination Listings 069 Out & About Listings 075 PHOTO BY DOMINIC BLEWETT

Leisure & Arts Listings 083

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Medical Listings 088 Fashion Listings 089 Home Listings 090 The Word December 2011 | 65

business development; design & printing; gifts & premiums; marketing; public relations & events. Clients include multi-national brands and NGOs.

BUSINESS CONSULTING BOOZ ALLEN HAMILTON, INC. Room 703, 7th Floor, MOF Project Building, No. 4, Lane 1, Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3971 9662 www.boozallen.com A US-based private consulting firm, Booz Allen Hamilton is one of the most notable names in the business. This firm has a long track record of assisting governments and multi-nationals in risk assessment and mission development.

DICKERSON KNIGHT GROUP 33A Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3933 2692 www.thinkdkg.com Established in 1991, this international firm has extensive experience in emerging markets. Their speciality is in providing advisory and training products to private sector enterprises and NGOs.

ERNST & YOUNG Daeha Business Centre, 15th Floor, 360 Kim Ma Street, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3831 5100 www.ey.com Provides a broad spectrum of services to help businesses capitalize on opportunities for growth, improve financial performance and manage risk. Works with a range of firms including private, stateowned and foreign.

T&C INVESTMENT HOLDING L3-14 Thuy Khue. Ba Dinh. Tel: 3728 0776 www.t-cgroup.com A well-known Vietnamese conglomerate of companies operating since 1994, T&C’s focus is on providing internationalstandard consultation to engineering and infrastructure projects. They also provide market research consulting.

BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM M Floor, Business Center, Hilton Hanoi Opera, 1 Le Thanh Tong. Tel: 3934 2790 www.amchamhanoi.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSCHAM 10 Lane 283 Doi Can, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3762 2282 www.auschamvn.org An organisation bringing together Australian companies and individuals doing business in Vietnam, the Australian Chamber of Commerce offers advice on doing business. Also offers networking opportunities and social events.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM 91 Pho Hue, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0906 240159 www.bbgv.org The first foreign business group to set up in Vietnam, BBGV’s goal is to both promote the interests of its members as well as the more general interests of British business. Organises business luncheons and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.

LAC VIET COMPUTING CORP 185 Giang VoSt., Dong Da. Tel: 3512 1846 www.lacviet.com.vn Since its founding in 1994, professional services and innovative solutions has led LAC VIET to a recognized position of leadership in Vietnam. LAC VIET employs more than 400 professionals in IT services and product development. LAC VIET is a certified MicrosoftTM Gold Partner; Cis-

66 | The Word December 2011

coTM Premier Reseller; Dell Distributor and Authorised Service Provider(DASP).

CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2229. www.ccifv.org A business group with over 240 members that supports the French business community in Vietnam by listening to their members’ needs and expectations. Also promotes Vietnam to French companies and helps them in developing their businesses here.

EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2228. www.eurochamvn.org A confederate organisation with strong ties to national business associations in its member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support for the business interests of European Union members in Vietnam.

NORDCHAM Suite 504, Thanh Ha Building, Linh Dam Tel: 3641 6864. www.nordchamhn.org.vn Provides support to Nordic companies and individuals operating in Vietnam. A business and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise and experience.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Level 4, Kim Ma Building, 561 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3771 1004. www.sbav-hanoi.org An association that actively fosters business relations with other business communities while promoting social, cultural, recreational, educational and charitable activities.

COPY WRITING ABLE COMMUNICATION Tel: 0913 502829 able@fpt.vn An experienced editor is available to proofread copy and help produce inspired communication or marketing collateral. Able Communication has been providing professional services and solutions to Vietnam’s business community since 2003. For more information about how we can help your organisation, call or e mail.

CORPORATE GIFTS REGAL PREMIUMS 10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.regalvietnam.com Regal Premiums produces trendy corporate gifts, premiums gifts, promotional gifts and branded mass giveaway items.

Professional team helps with design to fit your brand and production and logistics to fit your budget.

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE

CB Richard Ellis (Vietnam) Co., Ltd 6 Floor, BIDV Tower,194 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2220 0220 www.cbrevietnam.com Finding the perfect accommodation to meet your various demands in Hanoi is made simple thanks to CBRE’s residential leasing team. Our services are inclusive of site finding, travelling fees, contract negotiation and resolving any other issues which arise during the term of the lease, all of which are free of charge for the tenant.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM 9th floor, Vinaplast, Tai Tam Building, 39A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2220 5888 www.colliersmn.com/vietnam Represent property investors, developers and occupiers in all matters related to commercial and residential property.

Services include leasing and sales, valuation and research, property management and support services.

Attempt to accelerate the success of their clients by making their knowledge your property.

DALUVA HOME 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho www.daluva.com/apartment Thoughtfully appointed and decorated, Daluva Home features a cosy bedroom for true rest, plus open living, dining, and work areas. Extras include two LCD TVs, iPod dock, and outdoor patio.

Housekeeping, and daily breakfast from the Daluva Breakfast Menu are also included. Private car and tour booking service available.

HANOI HOUSE HUNTER Quang Trung Building, Room 203, 39 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0983 336336 www.hanoihousehunter.com This company can assist you in finding an apartment that meets your living and budget requirements. Though they specialise in high-end, high-rise apartments, they do have a range of options. The website contains most listings.

KNIGHT FRANK 40 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem www.knightfrank.com UK real estate agent providing a wide range of services including property sale, lease, management, price appraisal, counselling and market research.

MEGALAND 2nd Floor, 43 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 5556 Specialising in meeting housing needs of expatriates and overseas Vietnamese, Megaland offers a wide range of serviced apartments, villas and commercial spaces.

SAVILLS VIETNAM 6th floor, Sentinel Place, 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3946 1300 www.savills.com.vn A leading global real estate service provider listed on the London Stock Exchange with over 200 offices worldwide.

Provides consultancy services, property management, space planning, facilities management, corporate real estate services, leasing, valuation and sales to the key segments of commercial, industrial, retail, residential and investment property.

TAN LONG HOUSING 49 Au Co, Tay Ho. Tel: 0913 345152 www.tanlonghousing.com Tan Long has been concentrating on assisting individuals in the process of buying, selling and renting property in Hanoi since 1999. They also have several branch offices, and a useful website that can help to fill residential or commercial needs.

VIETNAM LAND 38 Phan Boi Chau Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0934 416661 Vietnam Land was incorporated in Vietnam in 2002 as a commercial and residential real estate services, real estate property management and real estate development company. Since that time Vietnam Land has successfully developed two residential towers at the Chelsea Park project in Hanoi and a residential land sales project in Hung Yen province called Villa Park.

INSURANCE AIG Suite 5-01, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3936 1455 www.aig.com Offers a range of insurance products and services including property, casualty and marine exposure insurance. Also has comprehensive travel and accident coverage, as well as healthcare packages for expats residing in Vietnam.

IF Consulting 5 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 5370 Emergency: 0903 732365 www.insuranceinvietnam.com Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has been operational in Vietnam since 1994 and offers free advice and comparative quotes.

LIBERTY INSURANCE 16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau Giay Tel: 3755 7111 www.libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a quality range of insurance services to both commercial enterprises and individuals. Coverage includes property, liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel, as well as expat healthcare packages. Toll free hotline in Vietnam: 1 800 599 998.

PRUDENTIAL 63 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 5999 www.prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, has over 70 customer care centers throughout the country.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Tower, Duy Tan, Cau Giay. Tel: 3795 8878 www.concordiahanoi.org International brand, Concordia, has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. It arrives in Hanoi in August 2011 but is enrolling from pre-school to grade seven now. Located to the west of the city.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai Boulevard, Ba Dinh www.hisvietnam.com With schooling available for students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. The institution offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. Located near the Japanese Embassy.

QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6418 www.hanoi.qsi.org With nearly four decades of experience in international education, QSI International School of Hanoi is next in the long line of ‘quality schools’ that have been established by the Quality Schools International.

The institution specialises in instructing pre-school and lower elementary age students.

UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS) Ciputra International Village, Tay Ho Tel: 3758 1551 www.unishanoi.org With more than 800 students from 50 different countries, UNIS is a non-profit IB World School that instructs students from as young as three years old through to grade 12. Established in 1988 by agencies

representing the United Nations, the pristine campus has a broad range of facilities and is located in the gated community of Ciputra.

INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL 11th Floor, Hanoi Lake View Bldg, 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho. Tel: 3936 0203 www.dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam with total group assets in excess of US$2 billion. Has offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and the UK.

INDOCHINA CAPITAL Floors 9-9A, 60 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3930 6399 www.indochinacapital.com A leading investment firm operating in the ASEAN region with a particular focus on Vietnam. Assists partners, co-investors and clients to achieve financial objectives while focusing on four core areas: corporate finance and advisory services, investment management and real estate development.

MEKONG CAPITAL 12th Floor, HAREC Building, 4A Lang Ha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4888 www.mekongcapital.com A private equity firm which focuses on the growth equity of companies in the developing Vietnamese economy.

SG VIETFRANCE VIT Tower, 18th Floor, 519 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 2220 8979 The Vietnamese subsidiary of France’s Societe Generale, the company recently opened a Hanoi. This was the first financial company in Vietnam to focus entirely on consumer credit.

VIET TIN FINANCIAL CO. 4th Floor, 44 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 5986 www.viet-tin.com A locally based securities and stock brokerage firm whose stated mission is to provide valued returns to partners and shareholders.

VINACAPITAL 5th Floor, Sun City Building, 13 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 4630 www.vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a an investment fund currently listed on the London Stock Exchange.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS APOLLO 67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 2051 www.apolloedutrain.com Established in 1994, Apollo offers highquality and cost-effective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic.

One of the country’s leading language centres.

BRITISH COUNCIL 20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho Tel: 3728 1922 www.britishcouncil.org The cultural arm of the British government’s presence in Vietnam, the BC offers a variety of English language courses –

business writing, corporate training and general English – in a large learning centre close to West Lake.

CLEVERLEARN Building 3, 2C Diplomatic Compound, Van Bao, Ba Dinh Tel: 3726 1698 www.cleverlearnvietnam.vn With two main schools in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, Cleverlearn offers mainly conversational and business English courses. An authorised in iBT test site by the ETS.

LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM 62 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3733 8402 www.languagelink.edu.vn With four schools around Hanoi, Language Link runs international English language courses endorsed by Cambridge University. One of the top language centres in the capital.

LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS ARTHUR ROBINSON Suite 401, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 0990 Australian law firm working in Asia for over 30 years. Besides providing the standard legal services to corporate clients, has an excellent website containing the Vietnam Laws Online Database English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.

BAKER & MCKENZIE 13th Floor, Vietcombank Tower, 198 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 1428 www.bakernet.com One of the first international law firms to establish representative offices in Vietnam, Baker & McKenzie provide onthe-ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.

FRESHFIELDS BRUCKHAUS DERINGER #05-01 International Centre, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3824 7422 This law firm works in 19 countries and is one of the world’s largest. They regularly advise large clients on international investment, banking and finance.

there is still time to register for this unique street running event

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I. Pacific Place, Suite 505 – 507, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 2350 www.gide.com A leading international law firm with 24 offices worldwide including Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The Vietnam offices offer their clients (companies and international institutions) high quality services which combine legal expertise and a highly commercial approach to clients’ needs, across all sectors of business law.

J&P LAW LLC Room 1204B, Floor 12, Tower B, Handi Resco Tower 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh , Tel: 3724 5201 www.jnplaw.com This Korean law firm offers international legal services and has additional branches in Ho Chi Minh City, Beijing and Ulaanbaatar. The Vietnam offices provide high-quality legal services in English, Korean, and Vietnamese across all sectors of business law.

LAWYERS ASSOCIATION OF THE CITY OF HANOI 35 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da Tel: 3835 3548 The Lawyer’s Association is a collective

drop in to Elite Fitness, 51 xuân diệu by form hanoi red river runners - road running every saturday in hanoi organised by volunteers

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business

destination

of Vietnamese lawyers speicialising in many fields. They can provide legal and representation services.

particular requirements of its clients.

Offers teambuilding and academic-based business and management programmes.

ROUSE LEGAL (HANOI BRANCH)

RMIT

Room 317, 3rd Floor, VCCI Building, 9 Dao Duy Anh, Cau Giay Tel: 3577 0479 www.iprights.com Rouse is an international intellectual property law firm. From HCMC and Hanoi we advise on protection and enforcement of trade marks, patents, copyright and domain names; commercial IP, IP management/strategy.

Hanoi Resco Building, 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3726 1460 www.rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development, RMIT offers both short and longterm courses, customised courses, and can provide for either on or off-campus clients. Known for its Business MBA which is open to both Vietnamese and overseas students.

RUSSIN & VECCHI 11/F, Hanoi Central Office Bldg., Suite 1104, 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3825 1700 A financial law firm which focuses on commercial and investment matters for corporate clients. In some cases they can provide assistance to individual clients.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING BRITISH UNIVERSITY VIETNAM 193 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 7596 www.britishuniversity.edu.vn The first university offering prestigious UK degrees in Vietnam. Courses offered in 2010 include International Business Administration, Banking & Finance, Accounting & Finance, Marketing Management, Accounting & Business. Pre-university courses are also available.

G&H MANAGEMENT SERVICES HKC Building, Suite 701, 285 Doi Can, Ba Dinh Tel: 3762 3805 www.ghmsglobal.com A 100% foreign-invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in-house programs to meet the

HANOI WEBSITES HANOIGRAPEVINE.COM The place to go for all things related to the arts in a city that is developing its own, vibrant contemporary arts scene. Has event calendars, event postings, blogs, addresses and contact details, and covers anything from classical music through to installations, rock concerts and more.

INFOSHAREHANOI.COM Provides the expat community with essential information for living and working in Hanoi including comprehensive and up-to-date events listings as well as address lists of galleries, cinemas, theatres, hotels, housing agencies, embassies and much more. Subscribe to receive their weekly newsletter.

LINKHANOI.COM Event photos, a what’s on calendar, restaurant and bar listings and in fact, pretty much everything you want to know about nightlife in Hanoi can be found on this popular website.

Also organize regular events and parties.

NEWHANOIAN.COM The city’s best known website, The New Hanoian provides user-generated listings, reviews and event information on pretty much anything and everything in the capital. Register, create your profile, write a review and receive frequent newsletters.

WORDHANOI.COM The online extension of The Word, contains both content from the print edition as well as blogs, events, news, a what’s on calendar, party photos and much more. Also has downloadable PDF versions of the whole publication.

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MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO 142 Le Duan, Dong Da Tel: 3518 6696 vietnam@cimigo.com www.cimigo.com Independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in Hanoi and the Asia Pacific region in general.

Services include auditing and optimising research programs, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models, and assessing market opportunities.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH 7th Floor, 73 Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4661 www.indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina. Focus is on developing partnerships that leverage their market knowledge and on enhancing their client’s competitive position in the region.

THE NIELSEN COMPANY 3rd floor, 85 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3933 1161 www.nielsen.com Media company offering integrated marketing and media measurement information and analytics. Offers full service capability across qualitative, quantitative, media and retail measurement for FMCGs, consumer products, finance, telecoms and more.

VINALINK 59 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 4206 1773 www.vinalink.com Specialising in online survey-based market research, Vinalink is a subcontractor for a few global market research firms, including CALEB Global and Pulse Group.

PUBLIC RELATIONS MEDIA ONE Rm 207, 40A Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3247 4028 www.media-one.vn PR company with offices both in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Focuses mainly on the Telecom and IT industries, providing a range of services including events, product activation, consulting, marketing and advertising.

TQPR Room 109, House K, 7, 2ha, Vinh Phuc Ward, Ba Dinh.

Tel: 32474 028 www.tqpr.com One in a group of companies from Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia, the company offers international standard consultancy services and value-added results to local, regional and global clients.

VENUS COMMUNICATIONS 4 Da Tuong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3944 7066 Well-known PR and communications company with offices in both Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Offers the full range of PR, advertising and consultancy services.

RECRUITMENT & HR AON VIETNAM LIMITED 14th Floor, Vietcombank Tower, 198 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 0832 www.aon.com/vietnam Founded in Vietnam in 1994, among other things, Aon now concentrates on human capital consulting, assisting their clients with compensation, benefit analyses and outsourcing.

HR2B Suite A6, 3rd Floor, Horison Office Center, 40 Cat Linh, Dong Da Tel: 3736 6843 www.hr2b.com The forte of this company is placing highly talented Vietnamese and expat candidates into executive positions at medium to large companies. Rapidly growing, in the past years they’ve added Coca Cola, DHL and Prudential to their client list.

MANPOWER VIETNAM 12th Floor, Vincom City Tower B, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 4574 www.manpower.com.vn Established in Vietnam at the beginning of 2008, Manpower is the first global recruitment company to set up locally.

Offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.

NAVIGOS GROUP Suite 1401, Vincom City Tower B, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 3033 www.navigosgroup.com Adept at solving human resource challenges through excellence in matching and management talent. Has offices in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS 8 Cat Linh, Dong Da. Tel: 6275 2824 vn.alliedpickfords.com The international home moving company helps make the burden of moving a lot easier. As the largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Available with a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — whether you are moving within Vietnam or across the world.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO Inland Customs Depot Area (ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh, Tu Liem. Tel: 3768 5882 www.asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of moving households without disruption to family life. They also offer pre-move advice regarding customs and shipping.

CROWN RELOCATION SERVICES 3rd & 4th Floor, 75 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 6741 www.crownrelo.com Offering both family and corporate relocation services locally and internationally, Crown prides themselves on being a kidfriendly company.

JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Tel: 3826 0334 www.jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and

local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

RESIDENT VIETNAM 3A, Alley 49, Huynh Thuc, Dong Da Tel: 3773 7191 www.residentvietnam.com Established in 2000, Resident Vietnam was the first dedicated Expatriate Service Provider in Vietnam. Resident Vietnam provides full relocation and immigration management services to several multinational companies in Vietnam and ser vices the Global Mobility industry.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Union Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0908 096222 sales@santaferelo.com.vn www.santaferelo.com Santa Fe Relocation Services offers moving, home search, pet transport, orientation and immigration services. We are proud to be the only moving company with both ISO 9001 – 14001 certification in Vietnam.

SERVICED APARTMENTS ATLANTA RESIDENCES 49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0912 239085 www.atlanta.com.vn Atlanta Residences fully serviced apartments have been created to provide a space where you can ‘feel at home’.

Within walking distance from Hanoi’s Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake, this building offers a panel of 51 spacious apartments for you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer the luxury of a hotel mixed with the peaceful comfort and privacy of your home, under one roof of course.

DALUVA HOME 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 5831 Whether traveling or on a temporary stay, Daluva can provide space & comfort.

Thoughtfully appointed Daluva Homes feature a cozy bedroom for true rest, and an open living area that opens up to a terrace with plants.

FRASER SUITES 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 8877 http://hanoi.frasershospitality.com Great location in Syrena Tower on West Lake, Fraser Suites offer a tranquil repose from the busy city. Has several apartments with excellent views and provides gold-standard service.

MAYFAIR 34B Tran Phu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0030 www.mayfair-hanoi.com A building with a great location, and some of the largest apartments you’ll find. The Mayfair is popular among the diplomatic and international business communities.

SEDONA SUITES No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 0888 www.sedonahotels.com.sg 175 well-designed, furnished apartments and villas combining the comforts of home with the conveniences of a fine hotel.

SOMERSET GRAND HANOI 49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh Tel: 3934 2342 www.somerset.com Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive facilities. 185 fully furnished apartments, car park, 24-hour reception and central location.

OCEAN BEACH RESORT

$$$ www.oceanbeachresort.com.vn This resort is on a private island just off of Cat Ba Island. Around VND600,000 will get you a comfortable room in a bungalow close to the beach. Fee also includes the boat ride from Cat Ba. For more information check on the web.

Destination Listings DALAT 069 DANANG 069 HALONG & CAT BA 069 HAI PHONG 069 HANOI - INTERNATIONAL 069 HANOI - MID - RANGE 071 HANOI - BUDGET 071 HO CHI MINH CITY 071 HOI AN & DANANG 072 HUE 072 MAI CHAU & HOA BINH 073 NAM DINH & NINH BINH 073

NHA TRANG 073 NORTH-EAST 074 NORTH-WEST 074 PHAN THIET / MUI NE 074 PHU QUOC 074 SAPA 074 TAM DAO 074 TRAVEL SERVICES 075

BLUE MOON HOTEL RESORT AND SPA $$$ 4 Phan Boi Chau, Tel: 063 357 8888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn Ideally situated in the centre of Dalat, this hotel has 71 rooms, all with good views, and modern amenities, including flatscreen TVs and DSL connections. Also has a heated swimming pool, gym, spa, and prices to match.

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DREAMS HOTEL $ 151 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: 063 383 3748 The excellent value at this small private place has made it justifiably popular. You get a large room with cable TV, free breakfast and Internet access, starting from $10 per night. The staff are friendly, too. Just round the corner are bike rentals (watch those hills) and other tour facilities.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

PEACE HOTEL $ 39 Vuon Dao, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 846009 Found just outside Halong City on Bai Chay beach, this is clean, honest accommodation for a reasonable price. Located on “Hotel Alley”, there are a lot of options here. The rooms are fairly well looked after and clean. You can usually get one for under VND400,000, but prices vary depending on the season.

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DALAT

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$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat , Tel: 063 382 2663 You get door-to-door service from Saigon at this budget hotel – it has links with the Sinh Cafe people and this is where their bus stops. Apart from that convenience, it is a fairly basic hotel, but it’s right in the middle of town.

DANANG DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$ Son Tra, Dien Ngoc Coastal Street Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son, Tel: 0511 396 1800 With six different styles of villa units that offer views of the ocean, the mountains and a green of a golf course, the Danang Beach Resort is one of the most luxurious places to stay in this much overlooked city. The property also offers 33-storey twin towers housing a five-star hotel and golf courses adding up to 36 holes.

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HALONG & CAT BA BAI TU LONG ECOTOURISM RESORT $ Halong Commune, Van Don , Tel: 0333 793156 Stay in a beachside bungalow or a traditional resort-style hotel on the shores of Van Don Island. Bai Tu Long Bay is situated just up the coast from Halong City.

The staff here can help you arrange tours that will offer scenery a bit different than the standard tours of Halong Bay.

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY $$$ 47 Phan Chu Trinh Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 6777 (Sales Office) www.bhayacruises.com Bhaya combines oriental style with

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EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES $$$$ Tel: 04 3934 0888 www.emeraude-cruises.com This reproduction of a 19th-century paddle steamer trawls around Halong Bay in colonial style, with onboard overnight accommodation in impeccably maintained cabins. The great food and service adds to the already beautiful setting. They also offer transfers directly from Hanoi.

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HAI PHONG $$ 42 Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 384 2444 bachdanghotelhp@hn.vnn.vn One of the best of the town’s best budget hotels, the aircon old but clean rooms come in all shapes and sizes and have satellite TV, a fridge and a mini bar. The front-desk staff speaks English and can help sort out any travel arrangements.

Rates from around VND250,000 per night.

HALONG DREAM HOTEL

HARBOUR VIEW HOTEL

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$$$ 8 Halong Road, Bai Chay, Halong Tel: 0333 845810, www.halongplaza.com One of the many large tower-type hotels in Halong City, Halong Plaza has pretty much everything you’d expect from a 4-star hotel. 200 rooms, a bar and a restaurant that touts its seafood and barbecue.

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

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$$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh. Tel: 0333 848108 www.novotelhalongbay.com Located three hours from Hanoi, the beachfront Novotel Ha Long Bay is in close proximity to major attractions such as bay cruises and local markets. Featuring 214 rooms, one restaurant, two bars and one professional spa with seven treatment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, including a pool with swim-up bar overlooking the limestone bay. Ideal for business travel or family holidays.

DAEWOO HOTEL

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FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI

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$$$$ 66 Pho Ha Long, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 848999. www.royalhalong.com The four-star Royal Hotel boasts villas, well-landscaped gardens and a pool, all overlooking Halong Bay. Just two minutes walk from Bai Chay, the property has a resort feel and the rooms are housed in several buildings. If you’re feeling lucky, there’s also a ‘Gaming Club’.

32 Anh Dao, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 846099 Hai Long Junks is one of the three largest cruise operators in Halong Bay. The company boasts 11 overnight cruise vessels with a total of 160 cabins and 15 traditional junks with capacities from 25-48 passengers each for day trippers, providing cruise services for travelers with a mid-range budget.

HALONG PLAZA

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ROYAL HOTEL

BACH DANG HOTEL

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$$$ Lot X7, Le Duc Tho, My Dinh, Tu Liem Tel: 6270 6688. www.crowneplaza.com My Dinh’s first five-star property. This 24-storey mixed-use complex lies next to My Dinh National Stadium and close to the National Convention Centre. Boasting 393 guest rooms (including 40 suites), two swimming pools and a spa and fitness centre, Crowne Plaza also has some of the best meetings and conference facilities in town.

$ Nui Ngoc, Cat Ba Island, Tel: 0313 888899 This is one of the better hotels on Cat Ba Island. Large, clean rooms with all the modern conveniences, as well as a restaurant and a popular bar. The front desk can also arrange tailor-made tours around the bay.

HAI LONG JUNKS, HALONG BAY

$$$ 10 Halong Road, Halong , Tel: 0333 849 009 www.halongdreamhotel.com Close to the pier and the new bridge, what this hotel lacks in character is made up for in cleanliness and comfort. There are 184 rooms priced between VND2 million and VND6 million. Other facilities include indoor pool, health club and sauna.

HANOI – INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST HANOI

$$$ 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3831 5555 www.hanoi-daewoohotel.com This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range.

Shortly to become a Marriot property.

PRINCES HOTEL

contemporary luxury, offering tours of beautiful Halong Bay aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three-night tours are available and customers have a wide range of cabin styles to choose from: standard, deluxe or royal.

petitive and it’s possible to request a room with a kitchen. Standards with aircon and a TV start at VND350,000 per night.

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FRASER SUITES

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$$$$ 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 8877 www.hanoi.frasershospitality.com A good alternative to staying at a five-star hotel while you’re in the capital, Fraser Suites offers short-term stays for as little as VND2.5 million a night when they’re having

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$$$ 4 Tran Phu, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 382 7827 www.harbourviewvietnam.com Hai Phong’s most prestigious address, this cool, retro French-colonial style property is the only international standard hotel in town. Designed with panache without being pretentious, room rates at this 122-unit property start at around VND2.5 million.

HUU NGHI HOTEL

$$$ 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh Dist, Tel: 3831 3333 fortunahanoi@fortuna.com.vn fortunahotels.com This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.

PRICE RANGE BELOW VND630,000

$

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$ $$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

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$$$ 60A Pho Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong Tel: 031 384 2706, www.huunghihotel.vn One of the larger hotels in town, Huu Nghi offers some of the comforts you might miss at the other places. In addition to the clean up-to-standard rooms, the hotel also has a swimming pool and tennis courts.

MAXIM HOTEL

ABOVE VND3,171,000

$$$$

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ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS

$$ 3K Ly Tu Trong, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 374 6540 New and tidy, with cable TV and airconditioning, Maxim is one of the best mini hotels in town. Rooms are small but have good modern conveniences like satellite TV and new, clean bathrooms done in designer tiles. Room rates around VND250,000 to VND300,000 a night.

RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES

MONACO HOTEL

SWIMMING POOL

103 Pho Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong Tel: 031 374 6468 One of the more modern hotels on Dien Bien Phu Street, the prices here are com-

BUSINESS FACILITIES

SMOKE-FREE ROOMS GYM

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destination

destination a promotion. In the West Lake area, you can expect the gold-standard service with a quiet atmosphere and excellent views.

DESTINATION ZERO

HANOI HILTON

Manila Moments Meeting and eating in the capital of The Philippines — words and photos by Anemi Wick

corners of the country. That’s where we had grilled chicken bowel pierced on a skewer in squiggles.

While eating it, I had to laugh slightly at my thoughts about what exactly was inside the intestine. But they get cleaned and sometimes boiled before they are grilled.

They were a little chewy, similar to squid, but without that squid taste.

There are many more interesting types of street food to explore. Some with funny shapes, and some with funny names. Such as ‘adidas’, or chicken feet.

Grilled chicken heads are called ‘helmets’ and ‘betamax’ is curdled blood.

IF YOU LIKE CITIES, YOU’LL LOVE MANILA. It’s huge and colorful, rich and poor, chaotic, modern, religious and sinful.

Try to be reluctant and it will flirt with you until you give in.

I liked everyone I met. It started with the first smiley “good morning ma’am” from the customs officer at the airport.

But it’s not just the simple things — here are four more of my favourite Manila moments from my first visit.

EATING DUCK EMBRYOS They were once featured in the American stunt show Fear Factor but in The Philippines, they are just a snack: fertilised duck eggs, boiled on the 17th day, called ‘balut’. They are also found in Vietnam, known as hot vit lon.

But in the Philippines they seem to be somehow more obvious. On a late Saturday night I sat down at a tiny food stall on the always-busy Adriatico Street in Malate and saw a big styrofoam container with “balut” written on it. Alex, the vendor, looked at me,

70 | The Word December 2011

laughed, and said, “Never in ten years have I seen a westerner eating a balut”.

I cracked open the top, sprinkled in some salt and slurped out the juice, which tastes like chicken broth. Then I peeled it a little more and ate the yolk, which is covered with dark pink veins. The embryo usually appears as a vague grayish chunk but sometimes, if you get one on the more mature side, also includes the beak, eyes, feet and the feathers. I could feel my heart beating faster when I took the first bite. Surprisingly, it didn’t have much of a consistency. It’s all soft and tastes like a hard-boiled egg.

“It’s good for your health, it makes you strong,” said Alex. “And it’s good for couples.” Balut is believed to be an aphrodisiac.

AND CHICKEN GUTS My friend Lawrence introduced me to ‘isaw’. He showed me the Tiendesitas complex — a place in Pasig that looks like a food fair and gives you a quick overview of culinary specialties from all

MEETING CARLOS But I was ready for a Manila experience that wouldn’t only involve eating stunts.

I rarely join organised city tours but the ‘Walk this Way’ tour sounded promising — you get to meet Carlos Celdran, a tour guide, performing artist, activist and reproductive health advocate who was once arrested for disrupting a Catholic mass; a celebrity among all who know.

I joined his ‘If these walls could talk’ tour. During the one-man-show, we followed him through Intramuros, the oldest district of the city. His breathtaking gallop through the country’s past turned out to be the most entertaining history lessons I’ve had yet. It’s not a tour, it’s a walking performance, with the historic walls becoming the scenery. Some minimal props are involved but the real special effect is Celdran himself. He turns the history of The Philippines into a comedy, a fast paced action cartoon and a compelling drama: the Spanish area with the friars ruling, the American area and the sad story of the Battle of Manila, when the city was bombed and destroyed during World War II. And in case it wasn’t there yet, Celdran talks his country right into your heart. You will

leave madly in love, vowing to come back again and again.

AND THE HOBBITS Likewise with the ‘Hobbit House’. Later on at night, in downtown Manila, when I stepped into the dark, candle-lit J.R.R. Tolkien themed bar on M.H. del Pilar Street, it was like diving into a fantasy world. A dream of peaceful happiness.

But then I woke up and found that this place was making a difference in the real world.

The live music bar that claims to have “the smallest waiters in the world” is run and staffed by little people. It has been there for a long time, since 1973, when former Peace Corps volunteer Jim Turner from Iowa opened its doors.

All he wanted was to hire two little people to work as doormen. But then little people from all over the country came and asked him for work. Now 15 hobbits run the bar, with the doorman being the smallest. In a country where there was no association for little people whatsoever, Turner gave them not only a job, but also a place that unites them and gives them something to be proud of. Some are second generation.

Jim Turner, now 71 years-old, gave the ownership of the bar to the hobbits — who, for the record, prefer to be called ‘hobbits’ over ‘midgets’ or ‘dwarfs’ — a long time ago. He still visits the venue as a guest and good friend, and every night he props up the bar joking with the staff.

“They’re like my children”, he said.

I stayed until the bar closed at 2am.

It was great fun, listening to their stories. If you ever make it to Manila, stop by and hang out with Jim and the hobbits. Say hello for me, and tell them that I miss them. And that I miss these Manila moments.

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$$$$ 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem , Tel: 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Located next to the Opera House, this fivestar is not to be confused with the famed “Hanoi Hilton” that housed American POWs. Reproduction colonial architecture is matched by an elegant and spacious inside area. Has all the standard facilities of a top-end hotel as well as an attractive, courtyard pool area.

HORISON HOTEL

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$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3733 0808 This 250-room hotel no longer boasts the sparkle of a few years ago, but nonetheless has good quality rooms with all the mod-cons and a cavernous lobby. Decent but slightly old gym area and a good outdoor pool.

HOTEL DE L’OPERA

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$$$$ 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 6282 5555 contact@hoteldelopera.com Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE $$$$ 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 6270 8888 www.hanoi.intercontinental.com This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.

Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, top-end accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club.

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MARIGOLD HOTEL

HANOI SPRING HOTEL II

$$$$ 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hanoi.com With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers.

An all-day restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 well-appointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking.

$$ 38 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 8500 www.hanoispringhotel.com One of the only hotels in the Old Quarter to have a balcony with each room, this new boutique is middle of the range but feels higher. Run by Australian expats and partners with a wealth of experience in the hotel industry, expect great service.

Awesome western breakfasts and Vietnamese lunch and dinners. The top floor honeymoon suite has perfect views of St Josephs Cathedral.

SHERATON

$$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1048 info@josephshotel.com www.josephshotel.com Just to the side of St. Joseph’s Cathedral, this is a well-appointed, comfortable boutique hotel. Brightly decorated, the property’s 10 rooms have Wi-Fi, flatscreen TV and a mini bar. Prices start at VND650,000 a night. No smoking except for on the upstairs balconies.

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$$$$ K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9000, www.sheraton.com/hanoi Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI $$$$ 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem , Tel: 3826 6919 ww.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

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SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI $$$$ 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

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$$$ 17A Phan Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh Tel: 3734 9988 www.marigoldhotelhanoi.com A contemporary boutique hotel a stone’s throw from Hang Cot in the Old Quarter.

Colonial era accents throughout and an oriental themes lobby. 32 upmarket rooms and an intimate top class restaurant make this a strong contender in an area with plenty of competition.

MELIA HANOI

MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI

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$$$$ 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 3343, www.meliahanoi.com This landmark property has become one of Hanoi’s most popular five-star hotels.

Centrally located, with luxurious accommodation, the Melia also has a host of fine dining areas, a swimming pool, a health club and an in-house bar-cumnightclub, Latino. A popular venue for functions, exhibitions and events.

MERCURE HANOI LA GARE $$$ 94 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3944 7766 When your train arrives from Sapa at 5am, you will be overjoyed if your bed is just across the street from the station in one of the 102 spacious rooms at this smart hotel. A stone’s throw from both the Old Quarter and the Temple of Literature, Mercure Hanoi boasts a French brasserie, an internal courtyard, a fitness centre and a retail outlet of wine importer and distributor Da Loc. CREDIT

HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem www.sixonsixteen.com Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee.

GIABAO HANOI & GIABAO GRAND $$$ 38 & 23 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 2222 Two mid-range hotels situated in the heart of Hanoi,just 150 meters from Hoan Kiem Lake. Built using a blend of western and oriental architecture, the properties have 28 and 35 rooms respectively, all with mod-cons. For a bit more luxury stay at the Giabao Grand.

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GOLDEN LOTUS HOTEL

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$$ 32 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 8583 www.goldenlotushotel.com.vn The interesting arty decor of this place is a bonus, as is its value for money – it’s not often you pay under VND1 million for a modern hotel room slap bang in the middle of town. Try to get a front room (with balcony) to look out over the bustling Old Quarter. They’ve also opened a second Golden Lotus just down the street at number 39.

JOSEPH’S HOTEL

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MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3938 0999 www.hanovahotel.com Just a short walk from Hoan Kiem Lake, this boutique hotel is fitted with 33 comfortable guest rooms, 18 deluxe, and four luxurious suites. All rooms have wi-fi access, and the cozy lobby has both a gallery and a piano bar. Prices range from VND2.5 million for a guest room to VND4.5 million for a suite.

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MAY DE VILLE

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$$$ 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.

THANG LONG OPERA HOTEL $$$ 1C Tong Dan Street, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3824 4775 www.thanglongopera.com This hotel houses 71 spacious, comfortable rooms all equipped with high speed internet, bath tub and room service. They have a meeting room, which can accommodate up to 60 people, as well as a restaurant and bar downstairs.

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ZEPHYR

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$$$ 4 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 1256 www.zephyrhotel.com.vn A mid-size boutique hotel with a prime location, Zephyr offers a range of packages and special offers on rooms that are clean and stylish. The lobby boasts a coffee house and restaurant with both Asian and Western Cuisine.

HANOI – BUDGET CAMELLIA HOTEL

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$$ 44 Hang Giay, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3824 3667 www.camellia-hotels.com Basic rooms and friendly service at this well-known hotel. One of six properties of the same name in Hanoi, internet terminals are located in the lobby, and the property also offers a host of tour itineraries. Rooms vary in price from VND500,000 to VND700,000. Some of their other locations are more budget-friendly.

HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL $ 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Probably the cheapest, European-style

hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

HONG NGOC HOTEL $$$ 34 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 5053 With four locations right in the Old Quarter, this is a good option close to Hoan Kiem Lake. Friendly staff can help you with any detail like renting a car, motorbike, or bicycle. Rooms are compact, with small but clean bathrooms, and all have the quality amenities of a proper hotel.

Either ADSL or Wi-Fi connections available.

Some of the locations include sauna, steam bath and fitness facilities

LITTLE HANOI HOTEL

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$ 58 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem ,Tel: 3928 8648 www.littlehanoihotel.com Spacious rooms with ADSL broadband connections starting at around VND600,000 a night. The rooms at the front are more expensive, and breakfast is included. The staff speak good English and are very helpful. Has a number of sister hotels in town, two of which are located next to the cathedral. The third is on Tue Tinh, close to Lenin Park. Check the website for details.

HO CHI MINH CIT Y CARAVELLE HOTEL

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$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 , Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com The only hotel in Vietnam to make the Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels. Facilities include the popular ninth-floor Saigon Saigon bar, Nineteen and Reflections restaurants, Club Vegas for a flutter, a swimming pool seven floors up and Qi salon and spa.

CONTINENTAL

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$$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 9201 www.continental-saigon.com Fêted in literature and film, this huge old hotel with huge old rooms stands at the absolute centre of town and is the best of the Saigon Tourist chain. Hard to beat on charm, and a favourite with tour groups, this would be one of your first choices if you wanted to impress a newcomer to the city.

DUC VUONG HOTEL

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$ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 6992 www.ducvuonghotel.com You’ll need your laptop to take advantage of the free Wi-Fi offered in every room and you’ll probably be impressed with the low price, friendly welcome and well-appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few steps from the street-level mayhem of the backpacker area.

EQUATORIAL

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$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Big and businesslike, with seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting and function rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa.

Also boasts the biggest banquet facilities in the city.

GUEST HOUSE CALIFORNIA

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$ 171A Co Bac, Q1 Tel: 3837 8885 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

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destination

AIRLINES An Phu

destination INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RAMANA HOTEL $$$$ 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3520 9999 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Luxury accommodation with a stylish club Lounge boasting panoramic views, as well as the finest meeting and banquet facilities in town – all designed with the savvy traveller in mind. The 21-floor tower includes 305 elegantly appointed rooms, including 18 suites and a Presidential Suite.

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LAN LAN HOTEL 2

AIR ASIA 25 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2220 5351 www.airasia.com

AIR FRANCE First Floor, 1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 3484 www.airfrance.com.vn

AIR MEKONG 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 37186 399 www.airmekong.com.vn

AMERICAN AIRLINES 99 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com

CATHAY PACIFIC G/F, Hanoi Tower, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 7298 www.cathaypacific.com/vn

CHINA AIRLINES 4th Floor, Opera Business Center, 6B Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 6364 www.china-airlines.com

EVA AIR

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$$$ 46 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1. Tel: 3822 7926 www.lanlanhotel.com.vn You can’t get much more central than Ben Thanh Market and this modern hotel (one of many in the area) offers every amenity you would expect from a mid-range hotel while keeping its prices close to budget level. The staff are friendly and helpful.

NEW WORLD

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$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1. Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Its list of former guests ranges from U.S. presidents – two Bushes, one Clinton – to Korean teeny bop sensation Rain. If Knut the polar bear came to town, he’d probably stay here. It’s an ongoing event as well as a hotel. Fends off newer, glitzier competitors to hold its place as one of the best luxury stops in town

PARK HYATT

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$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1. Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous-looking hotel in a prime location, with an attractive lobby bar and all the attention to detail you would expect from the Hyatt. But wait, there’s more. The Square One restaurant has garnered an excellent reputation and the Xuan Spa by the landscaped pool is unbeatable.

BIKE RENTALS

2nd Floor,17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 1600 www.evaair.com

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$$$ 323 Le Van Sy, Q3. Tel: 3843 9999 reservation@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com A 4-star business class hotel, The Ramana Hotel boasts 293 guestrooms and suites and offers a complete range of service facilities including a Business Centre, a well-equipped Fitness Room, an outdoor swimming pool and the Sawasdee Health Club, The hotel is situated in District 3 – an area of Ho Chi Minh City only 2 km from the city centre and 3 km from the airport.

RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE $$$$ 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1. Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com If you’ve never swum in a pool 21 floors up, you could rectify that at this luxury hotel by the Saigon River. As you would expect from a Marriott property, there’s plenty more here to appreciate – the full range of fitness, spa and business facilities plus one of the best-regarded Chinese restaurants in the city.

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SHERATON

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$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton has bagged one of the best locations in town and made the most of it, with its usual mix of luxurious rooms and first-class facilities topped by an open-air restaurant 23 floors above the city. The conference and business facilities are unmatched – the enormous ballroom is just one of 17 meeting venues.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com True class on an attractive (and historic) street, offering a mix of rooms and suites, top-notch facilities, and restaurant cuisine which can match anything in the city.

Without a doubt one of the nicest places to stay in the city.

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HOI AN & DANANG

JAPAN AIRLINES

CUA DAI

5th Floor, 63 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6693 www.vn.jal.com

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KOREAN AIR

$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An. Tel: 0510 386 2231 Pleasant, small, family-run hotel with a spacious and faintly colonial air located between the town and the beach, with comfortable air-conditioned rooms and pleasant staff.

2nd Floor, VIT, 519 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3934 7247 www.koreanair.com

FURAMA RESORT & SPA

JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn

LAO AIRLINES 40 Quang Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 5362 www.laoairlines.com

MALAYSIA AIRLINES Somerset Grand Hanoi, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 8820 www.malaysiaairlines.com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES

MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTAL

Standard rental shop doing hire by the day and by the month.

$$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang Tel: 3821 1888 (HCMC office) www.furamavietnam.com Among the first resorts to open in the country, this venue still scores highly because of its stunning beachside location allied to some indulgent touches – the smallest room measures 40 square metres – and a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar.

VIETNAM MOTORCYCLE ADVENTURES

HUY HOANG 1

106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0912 094464

QUAN’S MOTORBIKE & BICYCLE RENTALS 70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 244941

International Centre, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 8888 www.singaporeair.com

36 Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem (down alley in between No. 34 & No. 36) Tel: 3904 5049

THAI AIRWAYS

Bespoke motorbike tours, rental of automatic and manual bikes plus repairs.

44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 7921 www.thaiair.com

TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerairways.com

VIETNAM AIRLINES 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 www.vietnamairlines.com

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VIP BIKE RENTALS 64, Alley 71 Tan Ap, Tay Ho (off Tan Ap Street, close to Sofitel Plaza) Tel: 0914 931390

Bike rentals and repairs. Good reputation.

Formerly part of the Blue Dragon Foundation.

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$ 73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An. Tel: 0510 386 1453 Boasts that it is just 0.025km from the city centre, which translates into being an excellent base for exploring the old town.

Added to that, you get simple and comfortable rooms for around VND400,000.

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

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$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An. Tel: 0510 391 4555 www.life-resorts.com Recently refurbished after a recent flood, this award-winning resort is located close to the charm and bustle of the Old Town and maintains an emphasis on wellness and pampering. Its spa combines the

benefits of traditional Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.

THE NAM HAI

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$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 394 0000. www.ghmhotels.com Setting the standard for luxury resorts in Vietnam, the Nam Hai is the ultimate relaxation space. Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. This is just the tip of the iceberg. Each massive room comes with its own espresso machine, pre-programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers. Entire villas, spa villas and pool villas complexes are also available for rent and each villa has a view of the sea. A great place to forget about the city.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT & SPA CUA DAI BEACH CREDIT

Tel: 0510 392 7040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Pull up some (private) beach and relax, at this unique and charming resort, which has been laid out to replicate a traditional fishing village with small streets, ponds and village houses. The Annam Asian restaurant overlooks the sea, there’s also a spa, Thai or Swedish massage, and fitness centre.

HUE ANA MANDARA HUE

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$$$$ Thuan An Town, Phu Vang District, Thua Thien Hue, Vietnam. Tel: 08 6291 3030 sales1@anamandarahue-resort.com www.hotelcollectionindochine.com Located on Thuan An Beach, a 20-minute drive from central Hue, the five-star Ana Mandara is the only beach resort with pool villas in the area. The property has a total of 78 rooms and villas, including beach pool villas, beach villas, duplex rooms and deluxe rooms in a wide range of styles and decor designed with modern facilities. Offers private rice paddy dinners, beach BBQs and cruises through the local fish farms.

modern) villas with private gardens and true tropical ambience may be the answer.

There is endless beach, a swimming pool, and a restaurant to take advantage of the fresh seafood.

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue. Tel: 054 382 6736 A budget option which offers a reliable and acceptable level of comfort for the sub-VND400,000 price with the additional benefit of being near the Perfume River and having attentive service.

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$$$$ 130 Minh Mang, Hue. Tel: 054 388 5461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com A collection of rustic villas located in the countryside close to Hue and its historical landmarks. Villas range from the traditional Vietnamese pool house to the family bungalow. The boutique, imperial-era Vietnam styled resort also holds cooking classes, makes tour arrangements and has an on-site spa.

SUN SPA RESORT

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$$ My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh Tel: 052 384 2999. www.sunsparesortvietnam.com This top-end resort offers elegant, comfortable pool villas and bungalows, and is the only luxury accommodation in Quang Binh, about 150 miles from Hue. An ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.

MAI CHAU & HOA BINH COMMUNAL GUEST HOUSE 1 $$$ Poom Village, Mai Chau, Tel: 0912 320990 One of the larger stilt houses in Poom Village, the bamboo floor you can expect to sleep on is more comfortable than you

might expect, and this house has a pleasant view of a lotus pond. Like at all the other stilt houses here, drink and dance can be arranged.

LA FERME DU COLVERT

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$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh , Tel: 018 382 5662 www.vietnam-aventure.com This eco-village in Hoa Binh caters to visitors in search of nature. 30 rooms of varying design in ten houses are surrounded by rice fields, lakes and hills. Has its own spa and restaurant.

MAI CHAU GUESTHOUSE At the farthest end of town, Mai Chau Tel: 0218 386 7262 This hotel seems to offer bare-bones amenities, but if you don’t fancy sleeping on the rattan floor of a stilt house, this is a couple good steps above, and the rooms are quite inexpensive. Be prepared for the noise from the karaoke bars which surround the place.

friendly, in-the-know, staff.

NGOC BACH $$$$ House 100, Quarter 2, Mai Chau. Tel: 0218 386 7340 If a sturdy bed is what you crave, this might be your answer. The rooms are large and clean, with a working television and shower with hot water. Might not be the Hilton, but for an aching back it’s a step above a bamboo floor and a mat.

NAM DINH & NINH BINH CUC PHUONG GUEST HOUSE $$$$ 396 Quoc Lo 14, Dong Xoai, Binh Phuoc Tel: 0651 387 9764 Accommodation here is quite basic, but this place offers a good deal in relation to the other places around, if you want a place to sleep before a long day of park touring.

CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK

$$$ Tel: 0218 386 8959. www.maichaulodge.com If real comfort is what you want, this is surely the best bet in Mai Chau. The rooms are modern and classy, with room service, sauna and internet connections.

The newly built Water Lily Cottage offers a luxury version of the house on stilts.

Give a call for exact directions, or you can check their website.

$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 384 8006 www.cucphuongtourism.com Park accommodation, in modern rooms, stilt houses and detached bungalows, includes basic amenities and comforts in proportion to prices, which range from VND100,000 to VND500,000 per night.

Rooms available at park hq, the park centre, and on the road linking the two.

MAI CHAU NATURE PLACE

THANH THUY GUEST HOUSE

MAI CHAU LODGE

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House 38, Ban Lac Village, Tel: 3938 1443 www.maichaunatureplace.com A perfect mix between a home-stay experience and comfortable hotel. The private rooms are beautifully quaint while the communal sleeping option is more typical of rural lodges. Both options come with modern and clean bathrooms, traditional home-cooked meals, free bicycles and

$ 128 Le Hong Phong, Ninh Binh. Tel: 030 387 1811 Refurbished in 2004, this has big, clean rooms that are great value for the money.

There is an in-house restaurant that will make it redundant to eat elsewhere. Prices range from VND100,000 to VND400,000 for a double deluxe room. The staff speak very good English.

THUY ANH HOTEL $$ 55A Truong Han Sieu, Ninh Binh. Tel: 030 387 1602 This hotel is slightly more expensive than its neighbors, but the reason is apparent once you walk in. The rooms in the newer building are especially nice and, together with the better than decent restaurant downstairs, this one can make for a good stop over.

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$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang. Tel: 058 352 2222 www.sixsenses.com/evason-anamandaranhatrang There’s a generous 2.6 hectares of private beachside garden to get lost in here, and much to marvel at, with villa-style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, verandah dining, pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa (40km north of Nha Trang). Tel: 058 362 2384 On a secluded – almost deserted – promontory north of Nha Trang, with accommodation ranging from comfortable guest rooms to basic outdoor bamboo shelters, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature – certainly a change from mainstream tourism.

The owners arrange pick-up from Nha Trang and the down-to-earth resort maintains a deliberate, family atmosphere. A real gem.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY

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$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa. Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com/Six-Senses-HideawayNinh-Van-Bay The upmarket Tatler magazine voted this

GUESTHOUSE VAN XUAN $ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue , Tel: 054 382 6561 An excellent option for those on a tight budget, with a comfortable room plus balcony and satellite TV coming in at around VND200,000. An additional bonus is the pleasantness of the staff.

IMPERIAL HUE

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$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue, Tel: 054 388 2222 www.imperial-hotel.com.vn One of the best hotels in the city, and certainly in the most convenient downtown location, this high-rise hotel has luxurious rooms with great city views, a selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa. You can even hire your own butler. Internet rates start at VND2.4 million ++ for a deluxe city view room.

LA RESIDENCE

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$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue. Tel: 054 383 7475 www.la-residence-hue.com Built around a core of the former colonial governor’s mansion, and maintained in nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s unique experiences. With ceiling fans and dark-stained wood furnishings, this is traditional Indochine at its best. Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you have a heady mix.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI $$$ Tel: 0510 354 5105. www.domainedetamhai.com If you’re looking for something a bit different, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai, with just a dozen traditional-looking (but CREDIT

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its top hotel of 2006, and it’s not hard to see why. The location is stunning, on a bay which can only be reached by boat, and all the accommodation, amenities and facilities are top-drawer. So, naturally, is the price. Internet rates start at VND15 million++ for a beach pool villa.

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang. Tel: 058 625 6900 www.novotel-nhatrang.com This stylish four-star hotel is centrally located on the main street of the resort city of Nha Trang. Along with 154 modern rooms, each with terrace and a stunning sea view, Novotel Nha Trang offers a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room catering for up to 200 delegates.

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and comfortable, enough to enjoy a good night’s sleep and shower.

THANH LOAN HOTEL $ V159 Vuon Cam, Cao Bang. Tel: 026 385 7026 Thanh Loan is a smaller hotel with more attention paid to the details. Still, expect basic accommodation, but, all said, a good bargain.

THAI NGUYEN HOTEL 2 Hoang Van Thu, Thai Nguyen. Tel: 0280 385 2803 Your standard two-star establishment, Thai Nguyen is one of the best (and one of the only) choices in the vicinity. It’s quite a large hotel considering its location, so booking shouldn’t be a problem.

NORTH-WEST

SAO MAI HOTEL 99 Nguyen Thien Thuat, Nha Trang Tel: 058 382 7412 Try to get a seaview room with private balcony at this friendly and very cheap hotel, which also has a rooftop terrace.

Rooms have basic but adequate facilities and it is well located.

HUYEN TRAN GUEST HOUSE

SUNRISE BEACH RESORT

KHACH SAN DIEN BIEN PHU

$$$ 12-14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang. Tel: 058 382 0999 www.sunrisehotelvietnam.com Luxury boutique hotel in the city centre and right across from the beach is well geared up for the family and business trade, with kids’ room, beach recreation, restaurants offering Japanese, Vietnamese and European cuisine, pool bar, beach bar, sky bar and a Qi spa.

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WHALE ISLAND RESORT

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$$ Tel: 058 384 0501. www.whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island some 60km north of Nha Trang has been made into a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and plenty of opportunity for serious nature watching, with abundant marine life and an array of birds. Onsite seafood restaurant and bar.

NORTH-EAST

$$ 849 Duong 7-5, Muong Thanh, Dien Bien Phu Tel: 0230 382 5103 Pretty much what it sounds like: a Dien Bien Phu guest house. Rooms are made for sleeping and not much else, but at good prices. Cleanliness and comfort are acceptable and about average for this type of establishment.

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MUONG THANH HOTEL $$ 25 Pho 1, Muong Thanh, Dien Bien Phu Tel: 0230 381 0043 This Soviet-era hotel has a unique style that makes it one of the most visited. So, despite its size, it may be a good idea to book in advance. There’s a charge for the swimming pool, even if you’re staying there. But, hey, there’s a pool. The rooms are better than average and have satellite TV. CREDIT

SON LA TRADE UNION HOTEL $$ 4 Duong, 26-8 Rd, Son La. Tel: 022 385 5313 The explanation of the name is a mystery, but with 100 rooms it could probably house a mid-size union. Not the cheapest place in town, but the rooms are extra large and fairly well-kept. If you want to spend some time with satellite television, this is your place. Price range is VND500,000 to VND600,000, breakfast included.

HOANG NGUYEN HOTEL

SUNRISE HOTEL

$ 84 Pho Tran Dang Ninh, Lang Son Tel: 025 387 0349 This place offers basic accommodation at a good price. Don’t expect too much, but as an en route stop-over, Hoang Nguyen will definitely do.

HOANG SON HAI 57D Thanh Tam, Lang Son. Tel: 025 371 0479 Although it may be a bit hard to communicate with the staff if you’re Vietnamese isn’t up to snuff, they are eager to help. The rooms are exceptionally nice for the area.

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$ 53 Duong 26 – 8, Son La. Tel: 022 385 8798 Sunrise makes for a decent stay for those travelling between Hanoi and Dien Bien Phu. In relation to the other hotels on the road, the rooms are very clean and the staff helpful. A night here will run around VND400,000.

PHAN THIET / MUI NE BLUE OCEAN RESORT

$ 14 Nguyen Trai, Ha Giang. Tel: 0219 386 1288 The large, comfortable sleeping quarters here may come as a surprise in these parts. But these are the things that have made Huy Hoan so popular. Several tour groups use the place as a stopover, and the staff is adept at fulfilling their needs.

$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7322. www.blueoceanresort.com After renovation in 2007, Blue Ocean Resort is now under the management of Life Resorts. Its luxury makeover includes a large swimming pool and swim-up pool bar as well as a children’s activity playground. Another new addition is an Irish bar. One of the better appointed resorts in the area.

SAO MAI HOTEL

PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA

HUY HOAN HOTEL

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$ Nguyen Trai, Ha Giang. Tel: 0219 386 3019 One of the first guesthouses you see as you arrive in town, location has made this guesthouse a popular stop off point.

The sleeping accommodations are clean

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$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan. Tel: 062 368 2222 www.princessannam.com The first all-villa luxury boutique resort in Vietnam, the Princess d’Annam is set on CREDIT

SHADES APARTMENTS $$$ Tel: 062 743 237 www.shadesmuine.com Top quality resort offering a small selection of luxury and attractively designed apartments and studios right on the beach, with fully equipped and modern units. Entertainment options include windsurfing, kitesurfing, antique sidecars, bike tours and dune buggy rides. Has a decent pool and dining options.

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THE SAILING CLUB

$$$ 2 Hoang Van Thu, Lai Chau. Tel: 0231 387 5829 Offers reasonable guesthouse-style rooms with air conditioning, some of them with balconies. Take a look at the rooms before you rent as the quality may vary.

$ 1 Kim Dong, Cao Bang. Tel: 026 385 3431 A large, government-run hotel popular with tour groups. Rooms are super-sized, with big windows and some even have views. They also take credit cards, which might not be expected here. Room rates are around VND400,000.

BANG GIANG HOTEL

Ke Ga Bay, about a four-hour drive from Ho Chi Minh Ciry and 35km south of Phan Thiet. With a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and a 24-hour butler service, this is one of the most luxurious resorts in the country.

Definitely one of the most exclusive.

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$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7440 Much more than its name suggests, with beautiful landscaped tropical gardens leading onto a stretch of pristine beach and an outdoor bar, well-positioned to make the best of the scenery. Has a mix of comfortable rooms and bungalows, and has recently done some refurbishment.

Offers quad-biking, kitesurfing, paragliding and, of course, sailing.

PHU QUOC CHEN LA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: 0773 995895 reservation@chenla-resort.com Open since Nov. 2008, this 37-bungalow resort provides a serene atmosphere along with first-class spa treatment and a mediterranean-themed restaurant.

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LA VERANDA

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$$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0773 982888 / 3823 7645 (Sales office) www.laverandaresort.com Boutique luxury among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, La Veranda has beautifully-designed rooms with cool tiles in traditional designs and dark woods, a stunning swimming pool, an all-natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant overlooking the beach.

MANGO BAY

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$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc. Tel: 090 338 2207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com A getaway in the true sense, combining an eco-friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location. Wildlife abounds on land and in the sea, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, and there are no TVs and telephones around. Excellent sunsets from the beach bar, which also serves up excellent food in the restaurant on the edge of the sea.

PHU QUOC RESORT THANG LOI $$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0918 073 494 / 0773 985002 Secluded budget bungalow-style resort, which lies in a beachside coconut palm plantation with small basic bungalows adding to the castaway effect. The restaurant serves fresh seafood. It’s laid-back and simple. And cheap.

SAPA AUBERGE HOTEL $ 7 Muong Hoa, Sapa. Tel: 020 387 1243 Despite being in the centre of town, some of the back rooms offer nice views. There is also a good French-style restaurant downstairs, which is what you might expect considering the décor and name.

Prices vary, but a room should generally cost around VND400,000.

BAMBOO HOTEL $$ 18 Muong Hoa (Pho Cau May), Sapa Tel: 020 387 1075 One of the best things about the Bamboo Hotel is the view, so make sure you check out the room first – some are better than others. There is aircon if needed, but you might want to ask for extra blankets in winter, in spite of electric heaters. Rooms here are between VND700,000 and VND1 million a night. The premium here is on the views.

CAT CAT GUESTHOUSE $$ Cat Cat Road. Tel: 020 387 1218 Notable for having probably the best view in town from its bar restaurant, Cat Cat Guesthouse has plain rooms at very reasonable rates. A fairly steep set of steps leads to the block of rooms, most of which have big windows and balconies, and, for the cold winter, log fireplaces.

HMONG MOUNTAIN RETREAT $ Km 6 Sapa, Ban Ho Road Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: 020 3872 130 www.hmongmountainretreat.com A large stilt house, five clay-clad bungalows and one 70-year-old Hmong House is what waits for you amid the rolling hills of Lao Cai, 6km outside of Sapa. The ecoresort’s team are all local and will help you enjoy the surroundings of the Muong Hoa Valley.

SAPA ROOMS $$ 18 Phang Xi Pan, Sapa. Tel: 020 6505 228 www.saparooms.com Located in the heart of Sapa town this simple but comfortable boutique hotel occupies an unprecedented corner location overlooking the terraced valleys of Sapa and not far from the energy of the local market. Rooms are decorated with antique hardwood furniture and contemporary artwork from local artists with touches of ethnic minority culture.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

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$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa. Tel: 020 387 2404 www.topas-eco-lodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, the only place to stay in Sapa is the Topas Ecolodge. 25 individual lodges are located on the hills overlooking the valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility give it eco-cred. Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours. It takes over an hour to get from Sapa to the lodge; transportation is provided.

VICTORIA SAPA

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$$$ Tel: 020 387 1522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the Victoria is not priced for the backpacker (rooms range from $135 to $250 per night).

The many amenities include satellite TV, in-room coffeemakers and safes, and a hilltop health club, tennis court and pool.

The entire resort is tastefully decorated with panoramic views of the town below.

TAM DAO GREEN WORLD HOTEL $ Khu Nhi Mat, Tam Dao. Tel: 0211 382 4315 A big new hotel, Green World has 100 rooms ranging in price from VND400,000 to VND600,000 a night. Because of its height, the top rooms have nice views of the town and surroundings. There is a restaurant and bar with billiards, and internet in the lobby.

HANG KHONG HOTEL $ Khu 1 Thi, Tam Dao. Tel: 0211 382 4208 Another one of the newer hotels in Tam Dao, Hang Khong caters mainly to Vietnamese tourists. But the price is right, hovering around VND500,000. Many of

the rooms have balconies, but all have comfortable beds and hot showers.

HUONG LIEN HOTEL $ Khu I Thi, Tam Dao. Tel: 0211 382 4282 Just your basic hotel, but if what you want is a bed and satellite television, this is your place. Can’t beat the price at around VND200,000. Beware, though, prices are subject to change.

MELA HOTEL $$ Thi Tran, Tam Dao. Tel: 0211 382 4321 Probably the prime place to stay in Tam Dao, the Mela has a swimming pool that might come in handy if you’re in the mountains to escape the heat of Hanoi summer. Rooms are comfortable and clean, with two double beds and balcony.

The staff can assist if you want to explore the natural surroundings. Prices between VND800,000 and VND1.6 million.

TRAVEL SERVICES AIR MEKONG 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 37186 399 www.airmekong.com.vn With presence in eight different cities including Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Con Dao, Phu Quoc and Pleiku, Air Mekong is the ideal way to see more of Vietnam.

It offers 30 daily flights and is a realistic alternative to the time-consuming train and bus combo.

customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more well-worn destinations.

HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3944 8844 www.hgtravel.com Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa - www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines (www.aa.com) and Turkish Airlines (www.thy.com).

INDOCHINA LAND 61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3715 2852 www.indochina-land.com Indochina Land is a French local travel agency for expatriates and tourists who want to see northern Vietnam in a personal and tailored way. Think small knowledgeable teams of Vietnamese and French who share their passion for discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on freedom, family, health trips and classic home stays. They will show you around Ha Giang, too.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 9343 0888 Founded in 1998, the travel company caters to both corporate and international travel.

Services include ticketing, hotel reservation, travel insurance, transfer and visa arrangement. Outbound tours and packages throughout the world are also available.

57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam's people, cuisine, history and culture.

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA)

JEWEL OF THE DELTA

ASIA WINGS TRAVEL COMPANY

94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi Tel: (84-4) 3 828 0702 travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam, with the highest standards of customer care. This premium Travel Agency has been created to help travelers select their destinations and organize their trips, take care of the time-consuming procedures and ensure that all journeys are enjoyable and successful. BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.

EXOTISSIMO 26, Tran Nhat Duat, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 2150 9 XuanDieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 5555 Golden Westlake, 151 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho Tel: 3728 2735. www.exotissimo.com A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.

FREEWHEELIN TOURS 2nd floor, 2A Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 2743. www.freewheelin-tours.com Responsible travel tourism company offering intimate, bespoke tours that give customers a more “authentic” taste of Vietnam. Motorbike journeys, homestays, visits to ethnic minority villages, national parks, waterfalls and spectacular scenery are all part of the mix, with part of the proceeds going to a number of responsible tourism initiatives.

HANDSPAN TRAVEL 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3926 2828 www.handspan.com Established in 1997, Handspan provides

Tel: 01282 471716. booking@jewelofthedelta.com A cruise boat on the Red River offering cocktail and party cruises every week with free snacks, a free cocktail and free shisha in one of the VIP rooms. Private cruises are available for parties, meetings, receptions, and dinners for groups or organisations. A unique place to chill out.

LOT AIRLINES R402, 4th floor, Dao Duy Anh Tower, 9 Dao Duy Anh, Dong Da. Tel: 3577 2202 www.lot.com LOT serves Poland and back three times a week on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. The flight arrives in Warsaw in the early morning, and because of the city’s location in the middle of Europe, it’s an ideal airport for transit to and from other European hubs.

LUXURY TRAVEL CO., LTD 5 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3927 4120 www.LuxuryTravelVietnam.com Vietnam’s First Luxury Tour Company, offers you carefree luxury travel so you and your family can focus on the fun, not the details. Challenge your skills at the country’s most spectacular golf courses.

Soak up the sun while being soothed by the sound of breaking surf. Hunt for high-fashion couture in the most elegant cities of Vietnam. Envision any vacation experience you want; name it, we deliver

SYRENA CRUISES 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 7214 www.syrenacruises.com If you’re thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while enjoying luxury comfort, Syrena Cruises could be the quencher you’re looking for. Forget drinking games and backpackers by relaxing on one of the two wooden boats from the fleet. Alone, as a couple or with a group, 34 luxurious cabins and suites are all ready for action.

All you have to do is decide on how long you want to holiday for.

Out & About Listings BAR & NIGHTCLUBS 075 CAFES 076 RESTAURANTS - FRENCH 078 RESTAURANTS - INDIAN 078 RESTAURANTS - INTERNATIONAL 078 RESTAURANTS - ITALIAN 080

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS 17 COWBOYS MUSIC HALL/LONG BAR 98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 6822 5pm to 12am Cowgirls, lasers, belly dancing and Filipino bands who never shy away from a good Guns N' Roses cover. Drinks are a little pricey, but part of the money is going to the show. Expect a lively atmosphere and the band will take requests, but 1980s rock tunes are favoured. +

AMAZON BAR

TOURIST BAR/CLUB 32 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem This newcomer to Ta Hien’s Bia Hoi Junction is an Aztec-themed three story drinking hole and dance space. Balcony on the second floor, which provides a great view over the beer drinkers below, and dance space on the third floor. CDJs and a promise of dubstep and drink specials on the board outside are bound to go down well among the area’s party massive.

BAMBOO BAR CLASSIC FRENCH Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 6919 7am to 10pm Set up like a traditional colonial-era bar space with dark wooden plank flooring, bamboo roofing, wicker chairs and handheld fan crafted ceiling fans, both during the day and at night there is a relaxed, timeless ambience here. The drinks focus here is on Martini-based and classic cocktails with a huge wine list and aged spirits also making an appearance. Also a great place for a morning or afternoon coffee.

BAR BETTA RETRO CAFÉ BAR 34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3734 9134 haimtc@gmail.com 8am to midnight This bar is every bit as quirky as the Czech moped it’s named after. Inside every surface is festooned with a medley of objects ranging from gramaphones to retro TVs. The rooftop terrace is an awesome place for a sundowner or a morning coffee.

Eclectic and like nothing else in Hanoi.

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ter for dancing on the weekends. Although crammed into a small space, cheap drinks and a mix of chart chits makes Dragonfly the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident looking to get up on the dance floor. If you don’t feel like dancing, relax upstairs with shisha and friends with one of the two lounges on the second floor. The sister venue on Phung Hung has a bigger menu and an earlier opening hour (11am instead of 6pm) but still keeps with the shisha, pool table and dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.

EZ RIDER

FUNKY BUDDHA

DRAGONFLY

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DANCEHALL LOUNGE 15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem 93 Phung Hung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 4926 2177 11am - late One of the better venues in the Old Quar-

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ELECTRO LOUNGE 2 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem 8pm to late Owned by the people behind Face Club, the low, LED-lit venue has the feel of a VIP room situated in a larger club, only it's not. While techno and trance are the genre's of choice spun in the establishment by live DJs, patrons treat the space more like a lounge than a dancehall and typically order bottle service and cocktails.

One of the Ta Hien mainstays.

HALF MAN HALF NOODLE

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LATE DIVE BAR 62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 1943 3pm to late Often a bit dark and somewhat gloomy, “The Noodle” is still a hit with long term residents. With its all-hour eating options — ranging from cheese toasties and pizzas to grilled cod and bun cha — and its popular

ICONS 101

CHEEKY QUARTER LATE NIGHT LOCAL 1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0904 032829 8pm to late Last building on the right before Hang Buom, this popular with the French (and everyone else) watering hole is a classic.

Has the same Old Quarter vibe; small, cosy and personal with funky twists – and an awesome logo. Spread over two floors with good tunes, drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till late. Also does tasty paninis into the early hours.

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POOL HALL / LIVE MUSIC / CLUB 55 Ma May, Hoan Kiem 8am to midnight A potential gem in the heart of the Old Quarter. While it’s themed to the Easy Rider vibe out front, this huge two-storey venue is a jack of all trades – it has a bar, live music stage, pool tables, hookahs, a VIP room and a night club with a decent sound set up. Ideal for private functions and party promoters. Club stays open till late.

AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

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HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

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happy hour, this Old Quarter old-timer is still up there with the options. Between 11pm and 12.30am, local beers go for VND15,000 and mixers go for VND30,000. Friendly staff and talkative patrons included.

HANOI ROCK CITY LIVE MUSIC VENUE 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 01887 487 426 www.hanoirockcity.com 5pm to midnight With a downstairs, English-style pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the only venue in the capital of its kind. Has weekly live events featuring bands both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. Email jimihendrix@hanoirockcity.com for more information or check out their page on Facebook.

MAO’S RED LOUNGE LOUNGE AND BAR 7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 3104 5am to 2am One of the few staple bars in the city that hosts an equal number of ex-pats, locals and tourists. With cheap drinks, funky, slightly ethnic decor and one of the most amiable owners in town, Mao's is always a great place to start off or finish the night. Sing-a-longs and dancing welcome at one of the most popular drinking spots on Ta Hien. +

MAY PUB

HO GUOM XANH CLUB STAGE AND TABLE CLUB 32 Le Thai To Tel: 3828 8806 8pm to 11.45pm Just a few yards from the banks of Hoan Kiem Lake, this giant pantheon of a nightclub seems more at home in Bangkok than in the capital. With DJs, go-go dancers and an ear splitting sound system, Ho Guom Xanh is a great place to ‘dance’ around a table, if you’re willing, while enjoying expensive top shelf bottle service in the heart of the city.

HOUSE OF SON TINH LIQUOR LOUNGE 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6377 8am to 11.30pm As part of the Highway 4 group, which now has its offices in the establishment’s upstairs areas, this bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class.

Does regular events on the first floor and also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold at other restaurants in the chain.

IRISH WOLFHOUND

plasma screens and an iPod station mix with a dance floor and comically named cocktails. Upstairs, there’s a cushioned living room — a pleasant space with a low ceiling and shisha. Throw in a dartboard, “sell and swap” book shelves, Jenga and some tasty toasted sandwiches, and it can be hours of fun. The dried buffalo “nosh” from Tay Bac in the north is a must.

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IRISH PUB 4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2212 6821 8am to 2am The open-air watering hole with seating on the pavement is a great spot to enjoy a tall dark stout or light pilsner at anytime, day or night. What it lacks in gaudy decorations, it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and billiards on the third floor. Has a decent food menu and even better pizzas.

LA FÉE VERTE FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555 lafeeverte@hoteldelopera.com 7am to 2am Meaning the green fairy — an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe which was drunk extensively in colonial Vietnam — understated lighting, a laid-back lounge atmosphere, a good music selection and ultra-contemporary interior design make up the mix at this downstairs bar in Hotel de l’Opera. Expect a good selection of creative cocktails and an extensive wine list.

Opens late with a DJ taking to the decks on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

LONG PLAY CAFÉ LATE NIGHT LOCAL 9B Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0914 339439 lpcafe@yahoo.com.vn 9am to late This quirky bar and living room gets busiest in the later hours. Down in the bar,

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LAID-BACK FIX 2 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0917 897630 A curving neon sign marks the small entrance to May Pub, which stands on the corner of Nam Ngu and Phan Boi Chau.

The pub hosts a laid-back bar atmosphere with old Hollywood photographs, free billiards and darts and low-key live music.

The menu combines traditional cocktails with offerings like Russian string cheese — a late-night brew and dairy fix. Wednesday and Friday nights are Buy One Get One Free for ladies.

MODEL CLUB CATWALK BAR 45 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem 8pm to late Lasers, pulsating trance, bottle service and nightly model shows. This venue is largely filled with flashy Vietnamese youngsters or older business types flashing their wads. Bottle service is a must, which is a little pricey, so if you ain't got enough money then you probably won't be sticking around to see the honeys.

PHUC TAN ELECTRO GRUNGE CLUB 51 / 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem 6pm to late Hanoi's favourite after hours dancehall/ trance den. Throw shapes on either of the two floors that have regular DJs while dancing to rapacious electronic beats or enjoy the Red River's breeze and snack on a kebab as you catch up with all of the city's regular night owls. The terrace out back has great views of Long Bien Bridge at night.

PILSNER URQUELL

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EUROPEAN BREW HALL 10 Nguyen Bieu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3734 2288 Modeled after a brewery, bar and bowling alley in the Czech Republic, Pilsner Urquell has an old Europe feel — particularly in the private rooms lined with glass beer mugs, thick cuts of dark wood furniture and semi-circular booths. With the UNmeeting-of-a-menu, customers can choose from goose dishes, noodles, fried apples, an assortment of cheeses and several other options. Perfect location for big gatherings.

POLITE PUB

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LONG BAR 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 0959 A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest pubs in the city, this staple watering hole on Bao Khanh continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, billiards and live football matches.

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Q PUB

BOTTLE BASED DANCE CLUB 61 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0915 381180 qbuphanoi@gmail.com A glitzy, spacious basement club tucked away in the corner where Luong Ngoc Quyen meets Hang Giay. It’s a laser, mirrors and disco ball affair with high tables, hostesses, bottles of whiskey and a DJ — usually playing a mixture of trance and house. Runs a number of spirits offers on different days of the week. Ask for details.

ROOTS

WINE’S CORNER

HAPRO CAFÉ

WINE AND CIGAR LOUNGE 2 Le Phung Hieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3939 3477 9am to 1am The ambience at the relaxed wine bar near the Metropole screams red wine — the walls are painted a warm yellow, the exposed brick adds a touch of cool and the wine barrels-turned-tables are tasteful. Too bad it’s often awkwardly empty.

Features fine wines, cigars and Vietnamese and international snacks.

CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 6th floor, 38-40 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 7984 7.30am to 11pm Take the dilapidated elevator to the 6th floor and emerge onto a balcony with one of the best views of Hoan Kiem. The big draw to this café is the vantage point — the drinks are a secondary concern, though there is about every coffee and juice concoction known to mankind on the menu and plenty of yoghurt and smoothie options too. Graze on French fries, sandwiches, salads and typical Vietnamese rice plates. Perfect for watching the city wake up or catching a sunset.

CAFES

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REGGAE CHILLOUT BAR 2 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem 5pm to late With a reggae theme, the French-run Roots stays open late playing African and Caribbean music with some salsa thrown in for good measure. Laid back vibes. A good, late-night, Old Quarter option set on a first floor. The entrance is next to the Irish Wolfhound.

TEMPLE BAR

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DANCEFLOOR / LONG BAR 8 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 6675 7908 7pm to 2am A relative newcomer and an instant favourite, located in party mile, Temple Bar is a good choice for late night fun. The long, thin establishment is a bar out front with decks and some tiles out back – usually hosting electro pop DJs or sets from the likes of Link Hanoi. Has drinks specials most days and is guaranteed to be crammed at the weekend. Popular among locals, expats and tourists.

TAY TAP

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MEET-UP SPOT 100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 6917 www.taytap.com Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar with two beers on tap — as well as wine, cocktails and spirits on the shelves — this newcomer venue has a grill menu catering to the tastes of both East and West. For those in search of a good old-fashioned Sloppy Joe or grilled cheese, you’ll be glad to know the kitchen is stocked to the ceiling with comfort foods.

TET BAR LATE NIGHT LOCAL 2A Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 3050 6pm to 5am This small and personal one-and-a-half floor bar starts to get busy at around 11pm and is popular with expats of all nationalities, despite having a French flavour. Run by the indomitable Thanh and once called Le Maquis, the Tet Bar these days has a slightly cluttered feel to it, but nonetheless continues to pull in the punters. Open very, very late.

THE SPOT LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE 47 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3935 1874 8am to midnight A stone's throw from Ta Hien, this barcum-lounge-cum-restaurant has all of the atmosphere present in bars scattered throughout the Old Quarter without being a dive. Enjoy a mixed drink, tacos or a Vietnamese staple starter with the occasional live DJ breaking out classic funk, soul and hip hop in the comfortable furnishings or on the back patio.

TUNNEL BAR INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH 11B Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 0936 063303 4pm to late Slim but stylish two-storey bar located just at the bend on Bao Khanh. The friendly staff can make a range of well-made and colourful cocktails. Frequent DJ nights and parties are commonplace at this watering hole that caters to both foreign and Vietnamese. Does an excellent happy hour with specials on Ricard.

ALIGN 3D POPULAR VIETNAMESE 1 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 10A Khuc Hao, Ba Dinh 7am to 11pm Popular with young Vietnamese, the Align cafes are always busy. The younger venue on Khuc Hao is hidden down a bamboo alley and has three outdoor seating areas, one of which makes you feel like you’re sat under a waterfall. The other two are on the roof, and from the middle of this embassy-type street, the sound of motorbikes is replaced with tweeting birds. 3D pictures on the walls of each floor take you back to the old city, before KFC and Parkson. Even to times before the French.

AVALON CAFÉ

HIGHLANDS COFFEE CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 6 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0444 www.highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm As with any chain that attempts selfreplication, there is a tried and tested formula. At Highlands it is comfortable seating, good Wi-Fi, unobtrusive music and a mid-range, generic atmosphere.

It works, too. The Starbucks of Vietnam, a French-influenced, international and pan-Asian food menu sits alongside the teas, coffee and cakes. Has other locations at 49 Hai Ba Trung, The Opera House, The Syrena Centre, Pacific Place and more.

LAKE VIEW LOUNGE 73 Cau Go; 9 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 0801 www.avaloncafelounge.com 7am to 11.30pm Popular for its views of Hoan Kiem Lake, this lounge and bar is always busy. With comfy seating and balconies, the lounge and sky garden offer a pleasant escape from city-centre chaos. The smoothies are creamy and renditions of popular street dishes are spot on. Elsewhere in the eclectic menu, pizzas and pastas cost around VND100,000 and steak in red wine sauce goes for VND179,000. Classic pop instrumentals play by day, and come night, the chilled vibe is tainted slightly with electro pop.

COFFEE/BAKERY 22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3747 33 88 54 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 6071 www.joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of “home” to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counterstyle service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels.

Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2010 and is looking to open in Ho Chi Minh City in 2011. Has a play area for kids up in the West Lake café and bakery.

CIAO CAFÉ

KINH DO

RESTO LOUNGE 2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 1494 7am to 11pm A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise tries it’s hand with a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. Oh, and they also do coffee, too.

CONG CAPHE LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communist-driven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on 'cafe street'. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

ESPRESSAMENTE ILLY ITALIAN COFFEE 75 Cau Go, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3935 2065 8am to 11pm International standard, Italian-style espresso drinks are the name of the game at this undeniably chic chain coffee shop.

Boasting a wide range of drinks, including spirit coffees with tequila, and a small selection of pastries and panini sandwiches, the café’s clientele is a mix of tourists and Vietnamese who are tired of ca phe nau da. It is connected to a tour agency and in the central hub of the Old Quarter.

JOMA

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 0216 7am – 8pm A must-go-to place on a lazy day, Mr Chi’s long-standing patisserie is somewhat famous for its honest, home-cooked food, no frills-but-relaxing environment and sour yoghurt fit for celebrities — Catherine Deneuve ate here daily during her time shooting Indochine. Hot fresh milk, exclusive coffee, awesome croque madames and local dishes, too. Replace WiFi with a book and aircon with ceiling fans; eat in, take away, the pastries are great and the price is always right.

LA PLACE CONTEMPORARY / VIETNAMESE 6 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 5859 7.30am to 10pm This tall, narrow lounge café with rooftop seating is a quintessential Hanoi spot.

The decoration is bright and casual and the all-day menu has food from both the east and the west. Draw with crayons on brown paper covering the tables as you while away the hours over coffee or cocktails, and take in the view of St. Joseph’s Cathedral. Has some interesting food options including spinach fried rice along with old standbys like tuna salad sandwiches and coconut chicken curry. No MSG is used here.

MOCA CAFE CAFE / INTERNATIONAL 14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 6334 moca@netnam.vn 8am to 10pm Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly location gives Moca a large amount of guidebook-driven clientele. But don't let

this put you off. The faded but charmingly run down French-styled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains.

NOLA CAFE

FOOD BUFF Cook at home with Shahar Lubin

CONTEMPORARY / RETRO CAFE 89 Ma May, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 4346 8535 10am to midnight Step into a narrow alleyway and into an alternative world of winding staircases, comfortable couches, whimsical umbrellas and cozy nooks. The menu here caters to big breakfast lovers and those seeking a hideaway to nuzzle a lover. The oatmeal is unparalleled in Hanoi, as is the homemade granola. Mega egg entrees and luscious pancakes round out the breakfast menu, but food is served all day and the mixed menu of western and Vietnamese dishes means there is something for everyone.

OCHAO TEAHOUSE TRADITIONAL TEA ROOM 25 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 01887 785977 ochaoteahouse@gmail.com 8am to 10pm A stylish, two-storey traditional but contemporary tea house with great views of West Lake. Specialises in “precious” Vietnamese tea from the northern hills, handpicked by ethnic minority tribes and presented to the public by a passionate French owner. Well worth your time hanging out here on a lazy day.

PANACEA CAFE MUSIC CAFE 25 Quang Trung, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0909 061982 panaceacafe@yahoo.com 8am to late Slightly rough around the edges and with an artsy vibe, this is nonetheless a place that welcomes all comers. There’s live music four nights a week (Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat), but it’s not uncommon to find someone strumming away at the piano here at any time of the day. Friendly staff, good coffee, juices and cold beers.

PARIS DELI CAFÉ / BOULANGERIE 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 5269 7.30am to 11pm Time has been good to this airy, bistro-style café and patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital, despite its prime location prices remain reasonable — espresso-style coffees cost around VND40,000 — and the cakes and croissants are moreish.

Also does filled baguettes and a larger café-cum-restaurant menu. Has a second establishment at 13 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

SAINT HONORE CAFE / BOULANGERIE 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3933 2355 st.honorehn@gmail.com 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. Serving all day long, the downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other.

The homely upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating.

Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

Sweet eggplant? Yeah, well trust me on this one. Eggplant is by far my favourite ingredient to play around with. There is nothing like it when it comes to versatility. What I mean is that beef is all well and good, but a steak is a steak. Your job as a cook is just not to screw it up, but the possibilities of eggplant are countless. It can be grilled, roasted, fried and steamed. It's great as the star, and also as a background ingredient. Soup, appetizers, mains, and even in this case, dessert — it can be used for everything. The inspiration for this dish was a Moroccan eggplant jam, cooked in the sun, which I took and converted into a more American preparation.

EGGPLANT CRUMBLE Serves 4 INGREDIENTS: 500g eggplant (purple Asian or black Italian) 2 cups of sugar ¼ cup of cream 200g Graham Crackers or similar cookies 50g butter, diced ½ teaspoon ginger powder

SEGAFREDO ITALIAN CAFE 36 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 1476 www.segafredo.com.vn 7am to 11pm Names of some of the world's greatest cities cover the front wall of Segafredo, an Italian cafe and eatery serving up some of the best espresso-based coffee in town.

Red and white decor, lifestyle black and

METHOD: This can be made up to two days ahead of serving Cut the eggplants into large chunks and put in a large pot. Cover with water and put on the flame. When

the water reaches boiling point, strain the eggplants. Repeat two more times (this will take the bitterness out).

Place the eggplants back in the pot and add the sugar and three cups of water. Cook on a low flame for three hours, adding a bit more water if the liquid gets too thick. Cool down and add the cream.

Put the Graham Crackers, butter and ginger powder into a blender.

When ready to serve put the eggplant jam in a baking dish and cover in the cracker mix. Bake in a 150C oven for twenty minutes. Serve with vanilla ice cream.

Shahar Lubin has worked as a chef all over the world.

The Word December 2011 | 77

out & about white coffee drinking images and an open plan space make up the mix. Besides the caffeine-based drinks, also does granita, teas, shakes and modern Italian fare ranging from panini and focaccia through to pizza, pasta, salads and desserts.

STOP CAFÉ FRENCH DELI 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 9433 8am to 11pm Situated on Hanoi’s not-so-serene ‘Pub Street’, Stop sponges up the surrounding atmosphere, which gives the French delicatessen a relaxed vibe that avoids pretension. The spot specializes in serving a mixture of western, French and Vietnamese fare, along with coffee, shakes and juice. The venue is more affordable then it’s sister location upstairs, Café de Arts, and is prime real estate to nibble on some quiche and quaff a juice on a sunny day.

THE CART SANDWICH SHOP/CAFÉ 18 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem (entrance on street behind Au Trieu) 8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: 3928 7715 www.thecartfood.com 7:30am – 5pm Small a cozy café hidden on the quietest of Hanoian streets, with a new outlet on Nghi Tam, which is more like the big-windowed coffee shops you expect to see in Europe. The Cart serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF Picomall, 229 Tay Son, Dong Da Tel: 6276 1004 www.coffeebean.com 8.30am to 9.30pm Known for the quality of its coffee and tea, The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf has landed in Hanoi — in the form of an air-con, westernstyle drinking space in Hanoi’s newest shopping mall. The five first coffee shops in Vietnam started in Ho Chi Minh City, and this the first one in the capital. Hanoians are finally able to taste the beverages already quenching the thirst in 20 countries across the planet. New stores to open on West Lake soon.

THE DOLL HOUSE 26 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 2539 8am – 10am This new café, which fills a coffee-shopshaped gap in the market for this area, has the feel of half green house, half designconscious doll house, and is a welcome alternative for when your favourite hang out begins to get samey. Focusing on fresh ingredients to suit the fresh design, the

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

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HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

78 | The Word December 2011

out & about Doll House also has a garden terrace, and is open for party bookings and private events.

Enter through the shop out front.

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

RESTAURANTS - FRENCH MID-RANGE CAFE DE PARIS

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FRENCH BISTRO 10 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 1327. www.cafedeparis-hanoi.com 8am to 11pm Thanks to its original tiled floor, cast iron backed chairs and wall-hung black and white photography, there is something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisianstyled bistro and bar. Serving up a simple menu of snacks such as quiche Lorraine, Paris beurre and croque monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has a daily specials board and a decent range of pizzas.

MID TO TOP GREEN TANGERINE 48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 1286 www.greentangerinehanoi.com 10am to 11pm daily A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green cast-iron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.

TOP-END CAFÉ DES ARTS PAN-FRENCH 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 7207 11am to 11pm This Parisian eatery with high ceilings is imbued with a laid back feel that comes with wooden furnishings and a nice bar.

The venue serves up traditional French dishes and boasts an exquisite rooftop terrace on Hanoi’s pub street that is home to fewer bars and more and more cafes. The place is owned and operated in cooperation with its neighbor, Stop Café.

LA BADIANE 10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 4509 labadiane.hanoi@yahoo.fr 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm. Closed Sunday night.

A white-washed, colonial era villa replete with period wooden shutters greets you as you enter this contemporary French restaurant. Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or take to the leafy covered terrace out back with its walls lined with art and photography from 21st century Hanoi. The menu here mixes modern Gallic cuisine with a touch of Mediterranean and Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an extensive wine list and an excellent, well-priced three-course lunch menu.

LA VERTICALE 19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3944 6317 www.verticale-hanoi.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 9.15pm Situated in an art-deco villa that was once owned by a Vietnamese mandarin, this establishment is now owned and run by perhaps the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, which primarily come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.

LE BEAULIEU Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 6919 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm Classic French Indochine décor and subtle lighting give the Sofitel Metropole Legend’s signature restaurant an elegance rarely found in Vietnam’s capital. The a la carte menu pits classic French cuisine against contemporary Vietnamese cooking with dishes like Nha Trang lobster with saffron pot au feu, the pan fried veal tenderloin on a lemongrass skewer and the calisson parfait marinated with orange, pomelo and lemon balm. Has an extensive wine list.

SATINE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555 satine@hoteldelopera.com 6pm to 10.30pm Designed for strictly dinner only indulgence, the opulent Satine provides diners the option of ordering a la carte or from one of the venue’s 12-course menus.

Lavish design, royal-styled chairs and tables, three private dining rooms and the option of dining in a glass-covered courtyard are all part of the mix, with the cuisine prepared by executive chef Ms. Frédérique Nguyen.

RESTAURANTS - INDIAN MID-RANGE FOODSHOP 45 INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3716 2959 foodshop45@yahoo.com 10am to 10.30pm Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history that screams empathy make this eatery one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage.

Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

INDIA PALACE & DAKSHIN 78 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 5995 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm India Palace is the fourth member of owner Ravi Kumar’s family of restaurants which includes Tandoor. The menu takes the cuisine of North India and combines it with a South Indian-inspired menu, to create a pan-Indian menu appealing to all. Occupying a large four-storey villa with unobstructed views of West Lake at the front, the décor here is traditional yet contemporary Indian. The fourth floor with sweeping views over West Lake is given up to Dakshin, a vegetarian restaurant selling mainly South Indian fare.

KHAZAANA INDIAN/HALAL 1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 5657 www.khaazana.vn 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm One of the two oldest Indian restaurants in Hanoi, the menu at Khazaana encompasses the entire subcontinent, complete with heavier chicken korma and northern curry

dishes alongside lighter southern dosas and uttappams. The venue is homey albeit harsh, but with quintessential masala tea, naan and raita to round out the meal, the focus here is on the food and filling your belly… or overfilling, as is more likely the case. All cuisine here is halal.

NAMASTE HANOI 47 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 2400 www.namastehanoi.com 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm The latest newcomer to the Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or out with a free delivery

TANDOOR 24 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3824 5359 tandoor@hn.vnn.vn 11am to 10.30pm A long-popular, Indian-food enclave specialising in Northern Indian cuisine. Has an indoor and upstairs, white tablecloth aircon area with a more casual dining and bar space out front. Does excellent kebabs served from an authentic tandoor oven as well as the full range of mainly North Indian curries. Also has a branch in Saigon and does excellent set lunches.

RESTAURANTS – INTERNATIONAL BUDGET

may have been switched for basa and sea bass, but everything else is authentic, from the beer batter and mushy peas through to the newspaper wrapping, Scotch eggs and vinegar. Has an airy, upstairs two-room dining area.

CHEZ XUAN

themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and fantastic first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral.

Western staff speak English and French.

OPEN AIR EATING 41, Ngo 76, An Duong, Tay Ho. Tel: 0915 085305 Though it’s a bit far from the centre, the expansive wooded area, chilled out atmosphere and good food makes it worth a visit. The menu is well equipped to satisfy cravings for fish and hearty meat dishes. If you’re in a DIY mood, you can Grill Yourself a plate of meat and seafood or choose from the gourmet selection of strip loin, ostrich or salmon to throw on the tabletop grills. Regularly holds live music events.

LE MARRAKECH

HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT – SONG THU VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 34 Chau Long, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 4448 www.hoasuaschool.com Open from 7am to 10pm This restaurant, which schools and employs disadvantaged youths, has been popular for 11 years — as a grand villa and courtyard setting tucked away in the corner of Ha Hoi. Popular with business types, tourists and expats alike, who enjoy good food while supporting a good cause, mains like cha ca and steaks go for VND99,000 and VND289,000 respectively, and there are six set menus available which take in Vietnamese, French and Italian cuisine.

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 21 – 23 Hang Gai Street, Hoan Kiem Dist Tel: 38285 333 littlehanoi@orientalstars.com.vn 7:30am - 11:00pm A tourist hotspot and one for locals, too, Little Hanoi near Hoan Kiem Lake has been going sturdy since 1994 — mainly for its central location, range of sandwiches, pastas and Vietnamese cuisine. Baguettes go from VND95,000 and mango salads VND99,000, not to mention the coffee at around VND50,000, wines and fresh fruit juices. With Indochina-inspired art on the walls and jazz in the background, Little Hanoi is a little escape from the chaos of the central lake.

MORROCAN 88 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Tel: 3710 0389 10am to 11pm. Closed Monday Family-run Moroccan restaurant in a charming terrace-fronted house close to the start of Xuan Dieu. Focus of cuisine is on authentic couscous, tagines and kebab dishes made with a mixture of local and imported ingredients, all cooked up by a Moroccan chef. Uses Halal meat.

LITTLE HANOI

KITCHEN

MATCHBOX

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD 129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3821 5342 7.30am to 9.30pm Service at this “slow food café” is seriously snail paced, but that is part of the charm of this modest eatery with only a few tables and small stools. Popular as a weekend hangover mainstay for the greasy eggs with cheese, the café is best known for its not-quite Mexican food. But hey, when there’s guacamole, salsa fresca, beans and cheese, what can go wrong? Be sure to try the fresh juices, like the super-booster with beetroot, and the coffee with whipped egg.

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE Ngo 40, Nha 7A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 2679 hungskitchen@gmail.com 7am to 9pm Despite a two-storey indoor dining space, Kitchen is all about its leafy, terracottatiled terrace out front, a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check out the breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy, smoothiestyle drinks. Has amiable know-your-name staff and a good delivery service.

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3734 3098 tmbhanoi@gmail.com 11am to 11pm Located in the grounds of the Fine Arts Museum, this classy restaurant and wine bar mixes attractive décor with western cuisine, all cooked up by a New Zealand-trained Vietnamese chef. Famed for its salads, good cuts of steak, lamb shank and its various pasta fare, the menu here also incorporates a number of well-known Vietnamese dishes.

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CANTONESE/DIM SUM 317 Kim Ma, Dong Da. Tel: 3846 1327 9am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm One of the most underrated Chinese restaurants in the city, the place itself is not much to look at, but they serve above average dim sum. A variety of other Cantonese style dishes including noodle soup and rice dishes are on offer here, all at very affordable prices.

MID-RANGE AL FRESCO’S AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 19A Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 1155 98 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 5322 www.alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm With a real ‘diner’ kind of feel, Al Fresco’s serves up munchies-busting Aussie inspired food from a number of locations across the city including their original restaurant at 23L Hai Ba Trung. Topping the menu are the jumbo ribs at VND395,000, with generous helpings of pizzas, pastas, burgers, Tex-Mex, soups and salads going for less.

The set business lunch is three courses for VND155,000. See the website for delivery numbers and don’t forget to ask for delivery deals. Have an efficient delivery service, but make sure you ask for knives and forks.

BRITANNIA FISH & CHIPS 15 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 6694 If you want a product closest to quintessential British fish and chips, then your best option by an arm and many a leg is Britannia. The cod, plaice and haddock

RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da. Tel: 3747 0337 www.koto.com.au All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

LA RESTAURANT VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 8933 8am to 10pm The complimentary warm bread with rosemary is reason enough to visit this homely spot featuring hearty lentil and black bean soups, along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef tenderloin or tofu with chilli and mushrooms. We aren’t quite sure why the Miele Guide nominated it as one of Asia’s finest restaurants as service is lackadaisical and tables could use candles to improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately tasty dishes more than make up for any quips.

LA SALSA IBERIAN / MEDITERANNEAN 25 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 9052 lasalsa@fpt.vn 8am to 11pm A small but eternally popular Spanish-

PROVECHO TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL 18 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 0912 223966 provechohanoi@gmail.com The successor of My Burger My, this American-run, self-styled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny, multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style, chargrilled burgers from around VND50,000 with a range of additional toppings including jalapeno peppers, smoked bacon, mushrooms, cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also has a good range of Tex-Mex fare, a number of pan-Asian dishes and a decent delivery service.

SPOON ASIAN FUSION 15-17 Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3823 5636 6.30am to 10pm An extension of Soul furniture and lifestyle store, the restaurant and lounge bar at Spoon serves up a fusion menu in a setting that screams homeliness and style. Asian dishes, seafood and steaks are among the go-to menu choices. Attentive and competent staff top it all off in this chic restolounge.

TAMARIND CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 0580 tamarind_cafe@yahoo.com 5.30am to 10.30pm Perhaps the only restaurant in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesn’t focus on faux meat, Tamarind features a wide range of juices and shakes in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Breakfast is served all day and with Asian favourites, like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu and Thai glass noodle salad, along with some falafel and western influences, vegetarians and carnivores alike will find something to try on this menu.

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out & about THE BISTRO

out & about +

FRENCH FLAIR 2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3726 4782 www.thebistro.com.vn A modern eatery offering western cuisine with shades of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink and food deals and a warm indoor atmosphere — you know, just how the French do it.

THE HOUSE FUSION FARE / WINE 10 Truong Han Sieu. Tel: 6270 2611 hoangcuongfb@gmail.com The House, once Annie’s Corner, is one of the latest restaurants to occupy an old French building in the quiet streets nestled between Ba Trieu and Quang Trung. It serves Vietnamese food but with international twists. The affordable and eclectic menu ranges from local tenderloin steak to lemongrass tuna salads with a decent wine list and an ideal bring-your-own VND100,000 corkage fee per bottle of wine.

MID TO TOP GREEN MANGO

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WESTERN / VIETNAMESE 18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 9916 www.greenmango.vn 7.30am to 11.30pm Sophisticated restaurant set inside an Old Quarter boutique hotel. Formerly a school, and now also on Cat Ba Island, Green Mango serves Vietnamese and western food, ranging from sandwiches and pasta to lamb chops and VND700,000 Angus rib-eyes. Buy-one-get-one-free deals on cocktails and beers every day from 4pm to 6pm and Lavazza coffee at all hours. With comfy seats and a soft setting, the function room at the back often hosts charity events and semi-formal get-togethers.

JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE 23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 8388 www.alfrescogroup.com 9.30am to midnight The newest venture from the team behind Jaspa’s and Pepperoni’s is an all day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions. It has three floors for different vibes — lounge bar, restaurant and “boardroom” — but fine imported steaks can be found on each, as well as seafood and a huge wine list. A popular venue.

JASPA’S INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 8325 www.alfrescosgroup.com 6.30am to midnight With attentive service, tasty food and large portions, this place has something for everyone and has proved itself to be popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. Also has a large and spacious bar and lounge area that stays open late for all the live sport.

LA CANTINE INTERNATIONAL / CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3936 9897 www.lacantine.vn 6am to 11.30pm Converted from a wing of an old church, this upscale restaurant with extensive Vietnamese and international offerings is just a stone’s throw from the Opera House. Sophisticated but cozy, the salon is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and tea.

Expect about VND1 million for a set topend six-course meal and VND600,000 for the more downscale five-course offering.

LE PETITE BRUXELLES BELGIAN / EUROPEAN 1 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1769 10 Alley 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 5853 www.le-petit-bruxelles.com 10am to 10pm An airy and spacious long-running

80 | The Word December 2011

Belgian-themed eatery with a location by the cathedral and a second out in West Lake. Although this is not the place to wash down your Chimay, Leffe or Duval with moules frites on a daily basis — the mussels are only available seasonally — a number of other traditional Belgian dishes fill the menu including carbonade, jambonneau and boulettes sauce tomate as well as the more Swiss-sounding beef and cheese fondue. Hearty fare in a nice environment.

TOP END CAFÉ LAUTREC MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555 cafelautrec@hoteldelopera.com 6am to 10pm Featuring both à-la-carte and buffet dining as well as an innovative Sunday brunch, this namesake of the French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a mixture of international and Mediterranean-style fare. Has an extensive wine list to match the cuisine, which is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired environment.

DON’S TAY HO CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN 16/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 3719 www.donviet.vn Monday to Friday, 10am to late. Weekends 8am to late A bakery, bistro, restaurant, wine retailer, oyster bar and top floor lounge bar all in one, this lake-facing venue is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger.

Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such as the likes of Iberian pata negra ham egg pasta served with crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range of imported oysters and has an extensive wine list.

HALIA HANOI SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 0121 www.halia.com.sg 11am to 11pm. Closed Sundays A secluded courtyard in the heart of Pacific Place plays host to one of the capital’s best restaurants. A two-floored venue split into a downstairs tapas and bar area,with a refined dining space located on the level above, the menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer, with dishes such as pan-braised Alaskan cod with sea winkle crust and the braised pork belly in shoyu and sweet mirin making an appearance. Has an extensive wine list.

NINETEEN 11 INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 4801 www.nineteen11.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Named after the completion date of the Opera House under which it is located, walk inside and a labyrinthine-like, barebrick wall hallway leads you through to the main dining area. With dark browns, deep yellow tablecloths and a refined ambience aided by background classical music, the menu takes in western, panAsian and seafood fare and even has its own section dedicated entirely to foie gras. Has a 100-strong old and new world wine list that includes Bordeaux vintages and also boasts a cheaper, outdoor garden space next to Highlands Coffee.

PRESS CLUB CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 0888. www.hanoi-pressclub.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10.30pm.

Closed Sunday lunch Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four excellent wine pairing menus, put together through the aid of the Press Club’s extensive new and old world wine list. Also hosts a popular first-Friday-ofthe-month party.

RESTAURANTS - ITALIAN MID-RANGE DA PAOLO CLASSIC ITALIAN 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 8585 1443 11am to 11pm This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious woodfired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.

LUNO D’AUTUNNO CLASSIC ITALIAN 78 Tho Nhuom, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3823 73338 lunadautunno@gmail.com 11am to 11pm This old-favourite Italian restaurant has been going for 10 years. It uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND60,000 to build-your-own-skies-the-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space with over 35 covers and an outside courtyard, seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses — the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly photo exhibitions and opera nights make it well worth a visit, as does the large wine list and choice of desserts.

MEDITERRANEO PAN-ITALIAN 23 Nha To, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 6288 leo@mediterraneo-hanoi.com 10am to 11pm This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Throw in an extensive wine list, a traditional wood fire oven and a balcony spot looking over Hanoi’s trendy café scene and you’re onto a winner.

PANE E VINO

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PAN-ITALIAN 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 38269 080 Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe.

Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.

ZPIZZA Floor 1, Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 5959. www.zpizza.vn 10.30am to 10.30pm Californian pizza chain in the now open in West Lake. — currently the only place to eat from this American pizza brand in

Hanoi. The new pizzeria prides itself on its 100 percent certified organic wheat dough and different dishes found nowhere else, like the strawberry and goat’s cheese salad. Also serves up curry chicken sandwiches and meatball penne pasta.

TOP-END ANGELINA

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CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 6919 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30am to late (restaurant) 11am to 2am (bar) There are only two truly top-end, contemporary Italians in Vietnam and Angelina claims pride of place in this elite group.

This doesn't mean that prices here are off limits — take a similar eatery in Europe and here you are paying a third, which all makes a meal here a special affair. The carpaccios are to die for, the pastas are all home made, the pizzas are wood-fired and the steaks are chargrilled. Does a great three-course set lunch for VND520,000++.

Nick Ross

RESTAURANTS - JAPANESE & KOREAN

BONG-CHU JJIM-DAK KOREAN CHICKEN B40 Nguyen Thi Dinh, Thanh Xuan Tel: 6680 1423 Visit www.bongchu.co.kr 11am – 10pm In typical Vietnamese fashion, Bong-Chu Jjim Dak restaurant only serves one dish it knows best: chicken. A light kimchi soup is served alongside the steamed bird mixed with cellophane noodles packed in a mildly peppery but sweet combination.

It’s simple — ordering options include half chicken, whole chicken, chicken and a half, or all of the above. Select the answer that best fits your appetite and escape from the ubiquitous boiled chicken on streets.

GIM BAB KOREAN 50A Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3201 2989 One of the longest running Koreans in town, this down-to-earth eatery just off Kim Ma specialises in the Korean nation’s version of sushi rolls. These can be ordered either plain or deep-fried. Other Korean fare includes bibimbab and a range of barbecue dishes. The cuisine is brought to your low tables with floor seating and in typical Korean fashion, all meals are served with free side dishes (banchan) of kim chi, pickles and eggplant.

KY Y JAPANESE RICE EATERY 166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3978 1386 11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm, closed Sunday Sushi, soba, sake. Buy a big bottle of sake and the staff will put your name on it and keep it until next time. Dine at the downstairs bar or in one of the private rooms with sliding doors for an authentic Japanese experience. Although Ky Y specialises in rice-style working man’s fare, it’s hard to go wrong with anything on the menu, but the Japanese omelets, tempura and saucy eggplant dishes are perennial crowd pleasers.

IZAKAYA YANCHA JAPANESE BBQ 121 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 8437 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm Just a stone’s throw from Ky Y, this Osakabased chain does the same cuisine, but entirely differently. The small plates on the large menu are best shared among a group and with bottles of beer or sake.

The tofu in amber sauce will leave you licking the plate and the chicken with udon and vegetables is off-the-charts delicious. The tidbit barbeque sticks of okra or bacon are also great, but more as a snack than anything else.

SAIGON SAKURA

BUN BO NAM BO

TRADITIONAL JAPANESE 17 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 7565 10am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm This Japanese eatery might be easy to walk past without noticing, but venture inside and you will find a small but neat interior. The food ranges from traditional Japanese to dishes that lean towards fusion. Very reasonable prices, compared with other Japanese establishments.

BUN BO 67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3923 0701 7am to 11pm Dressed up like an indoor version of a streetside eatery, this megalith of a skinny bun bo restaurant is famed not only for its northern interpretation of a southern dish that you can't buy in the south, but also for its ga tan (stewed marinated chicken). The bun bo itself, a concoction of sauteed beef, peanuts, beansprouts, white noodles and sweet and sour sauce, is one of the better versions available in the city. And the beef is excellent.

RESTAURANTS - SOUTHEAST ASIAN BUDGET NISA

BUN CHA DAC KIM

MALAYSIAN / HALAL 32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 1859 www.nisa-restaurant.com 10am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10pm A two-storey fresh looking Malaysian restaurant with affable staff and authentic cuisine. Difficulty in obtaining ingredients means that these days the menu is limited, but a nasi campur buffet-style counter in the downstairs space and photos on the wall of other classic Malaysian fare allows customers to choose what to eat. Think nasi lemak, mee goreng, roti canai, beef rendang and more. It tastes good, too.

BUN CHA 1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 5022 10am to 7pm With the help of over 40 years of customer loyalty and repeated mentions in overseas press, Dac Kim has become the powerhouse of eateries serving up bun cha (white rice noodles with barbecued pork and herbs). The formula is simple. The mini pork patties are perfectly rounded, the bacon is perfectly grilled and then the portions are humongous. If you're feeling ravenous, the servings here will fill that merry gap, but if you want quality over quantity, look elsewhere. Has a second eatery at 67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem.

MID-RANGE

CHICKEN STREET

BAAN THAI NORTHEASTERN THAI / LOUNGE BAR 3B Cha Ca, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 8588 baanthai95@hotmail.com 10am to 10pm This venue serves arguably the best Thai food in the city. With Thai owners and staff from the country’s Isaan region in the kitchen, the place specializes in spicy staples that come from the northeastern provinces in the country. After a meal in the more traditional ground floor space, relax in the comfortable furnishings of the venue’s chic first-floor lounge.

RESTAURANTS - VIETNAMESE BUDGET BANH CUON PHU LY BANH CUON 39 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem 6am to 3pm Put the warm fish sauce in the small bowl with squeezed lime, chilli and fresh herbs and then dip. This is the Ha Nam version of banh cuon (rolled wet rice paper) with the gio lua (pork cake) substituted for barbecued pork and bacon. The street side, flaking paint wall location may be off putting for some, but the fare tastes great.

BANH XEO SAI GON BANH XEO / BUN BO 32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem Tel: 01296 290015 12pm to 11pm A recently opened slither of an eatery selling — wait for it — a Hanoi version of a Saigon version of a Hue dish. It's a bit of a mouthful but worth it — for all its augmentations the banh xeo (beef, beansprout and egg pancakes) served up for self rolling with rice paper and fresh herbs are pretty tasty. Also does a sweet and spicy to-die-for bun bo Nam Bo.

BUN BO HUE BUN BO HUE 36c Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung 7am to 4pm This is the second branch of the ninemonth-old restaurant on Food Street. Like the Tong Duy Tan favourite, which is more restaurant than street-side affair, the new location serves up the same staples from further south including bun bo Hue, bun thit nuong and nem lui. Authentic, tasty and cheap

BBQ STAPLES Ly Van Phuc, Ba Dinh Perhaps the most well known street food Mecca in all of Hanoi, the lane is flanked with BBQ chicken joints from north to south. At the Nguyen Thai Hoc entrance, the food stalls boast proper chairs, while the venues at the opposite end offer stools and host much larger crowds. No trip to Hanoi or tenure in the capital is complete without a trip to Chicken Street.

Honey grilled banh my and potatoes provide vegetarians with savory alternatives.

COM CHAY NANG TAM VEGAN 79A Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 4140 9am to 9pm The set meals for one person or a group of six people make this a popular lunchtime eatery. Signs clearly demarcate the way through the alley on Tran Hung Dao to this casual restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating. Everything on the menu is vegetarian, from standard tofu with tomato sauce to more obscure fake meat dishes. The walls are moldy but the food is fresh.

COM GA HOI AN HOI AN CUISINE 1 Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3923 3856 7am to 11pm A four-storey restaurant and café specialising in food from the centre of Vietnam — or, as the name suggests, the ancient town of Hoi An. It serves everything from the famous cao lau noodles and my quang tom, to bun bo nuong and com ga Hoi An. Also sells Thai and Chinese cuisine, cakes and ice cream. A spiral staircase, a second floor terrace and pictures of the ancient town top it all off.

Love what you do and do what you love to do Dine in or Takeaway, Artful Catering, Delicious Food, Fun Events, Professional & Warm Service, Weekend Brunches, Gourmet Set Lunches and Dinners

DAC SAN HUE HUE CUISINE 150 Nguyen Khuyen, Dong Da Tel: 6674 7917 6.30am to 10pm A no frills, ten-table restaurant easy to miss at the end of Nguyen Khuyen, just opposite the Temple of Literature. Specialises in dishes from Hue, like banh beo and banh khoai, all at local prices. The staff is friendly and helpful and the bun bo Hue is spot on.

DUONG SOM CHAO CA FISH PORRIDGE / CHAO CA 213 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3829 5281 Serves perhaps some of the best chao

16/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi Tel: 04 3719 2828 or 0913 001 359 Email: Donchef@donviet.vn www.donviet.vn

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out & about ca in the city. This rice porridge with fish is garnished with a healthy amount of fresh herbs and, if you choose, strips of banh quay – the Chinese style fried bread.

The fish is boneless, which helps set this place apart from others selling the same dish. One bowl is VND30,000.

MAI ANH PHO GA 32 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 8492 5am to 4pm Ignore the doubters, this infamous eatery serves up some seriously wholesome pho ga (chicken noodle soup) in a hygienic, shared table indoor environment. The secret? The broth, a perfectly rounded chicken stock consomme. Portions are big, too, and diners can order chicken on the bone or off and can even get an extra egg added to the soup for good measure.

PHO CUON STRIP PHO CUON / PAN-VIETNAMESE 71-77 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh 9am to midnight For a dish purported to be invented by French chef Didier Corlou, it is phenomenal how this wet rice paper filled with beef and herbs affair has so quickly been absorbed into the street food fold.

Dipped into sweet fish sauce with a touch of chilli, it tastes good, too. The biggest proponents of this dish are on Truc Bach — a row of five street-side eateries that also sell standard, quan nhau meat and seafood fare. There is also another strip of joints just round the corner on Ngu Xa.

QUAN 32 PHO GA / PHO BO / PHO XAO 32 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem 5.30am to 11pm A hearty, slightly salty broth accompanies the pho ga at this well-known, 40-year-old street corner eatery also lauded for its tasty pho xao and pho bo. It's a simple, typically Hanoian streetside affair here with red plastic tables on the street and foot-high stools. The soup comes with an accompanying basket of slightly stale but buttery banh quay.

QUAN 49 PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho 6am to 4pm A stilt-hutted street food eatery and cafe in the shadow of Elite Fitness doing a tasty version of the sweet and sour bun bo Nam Bo (southern-style beef noodles).

Ladle in the chilli and mix up with the beansprouts, fresh herbs, peanuts and sauteed beef, and you have a spiced-up, filling meal. Also does decent pho ga (chicken noodle soup) and pho xao (fried noodles). Has a semi-mezannine cafestyle space out back.

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

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HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

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leisure & arts TRUC LAM TROI VEGAN 39 Le Ngoc Han, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 6278 1848 7am to 9pm Vegetarians delight in being able to order anything off this more-creativethan-normal traditional Vietnamese Buddhist restaurant situated on a quiet street. Corn juice is the drink of choice here, as everyone around sips the tepid yellow stuff, and the array of fried tofu vegetable dishes makes you reconsider vegan cuisine as “health food.” Order an office lunch plate or dine in during the weekend surrounded by families and walls adorned with traditional Buddhist imagery.

WHITE CLOUD VEGAN Nha 2, Ngo 12 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 6258 1622 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm Simplicity is the key at this small but airy, zen-like bamboo-table eatery located behind the Syrena Centre. A rarity in Vietnam — the cuisine here doesn’t only focus on faux meat imitation — the menu mixes canh (broth) with a range of light dishes, Vietnamese-style salads and a selection of tofu and gluten-inspired mains. Worth a try for both vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike.

MID-RANGE CHA CA LA VONG CHA CA 14 Cha Ca, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 3929 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm A funky wooden-floored two storey, onedish-only eatery on a street devoted to one of Hanoi's best known dishes, cha ca. Claiming to be the oldest restaurant in Vietnam (established 1873) the deal is straightforward. The butter-coated, pre-marinated fish is sauteed with dill and spring onions on the table and served up with sides of peanuts, bun noodles and fresh herbs. It's not street food prices cheap by any means, but it's darned tasty. Popular with tourists and locals.

CHIM SAO TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 65 Ngo Hue, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3976 0633 Situated in a turn-of-the-century French townhouse in a tucked away alley, the ‘whistling bird’ continues to offer some of the best ‘traditional’ Vietnamese food in the capital. Sit on the floor upstairs or enjoy seating downstairs, regardless this eatery serves up simple Vietnamese staples that are well executed and presented in a setting that makes one feel like a regal Hanoian.

HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 3 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 4200 10am-12am Always busy, often hectic, this multifloored restaurant is for diners who don’t mind loud noises and sitting on the floor.

It’s best for groups so you can order an array of dishes ranging from the more exotic frog legs, buffalo and ostrich, to the trusted standbys; catfish spring rolls, papaya salad and fried tofu. But it’s the exclusive Highway 4 flavoured rice wines that can be taken as shots or mixed into cocktails that keep this place crowded.

KITI RESTAURANT VIETNAMESE / WESTERN 38 Hang Hom Tel: 3928 7241 An unassuming establishment that rarely fills up, which means that customers often benefit from better service and the servers utmost attention. What the restaurant lacks in atmosphere, it makes

up for with a large menu that is chalked full of reasonably priced Vietnamese fare and some western staples.

NGOC HIEU STEAK / CHINESE NOODLES 52 Le Ngoc Han, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3978 2251 7am to 10.30pm Located on the corner of Hoa Ma, this steak served sizzling-on-the-griddle eatery packs no punches when it comes to getting your beef. Get the standard banh my affair and the imported US steak is doled up with meatballs, fried egg, chips and lots of fat. It's a cholesterol mess of a meal but really tasty. Also does bun bo Hue, Phuc Kien noodles and the Khmer Chinese hu tieu Nam Vang. Has restaurants at 349 Doi Can and 71 Tran Duy Hung.

NHA HANG NGON CONTEMPORARY STREET FOOD 26 A-B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 6133 ngonhanoi@vnn.vn 7am to 10pm Large and always busy restaurant set in two colonial buildings. The courtyard is filled with tables and fairy light covered trees, which are circled by 18 cooking stoves. Here the chefs serve Vietnamese classics from all over the country a la carte style. Good for street side classics done well in the comfort of an airy restaurant. Of the 14 dining spaces, one room holds 30 guests. Open for breakfast lunch and dinner.

OLD HANOI GOURMET VIETNAMESE 4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem Tel: 1355 9096 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake.

But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks standout. Be sure to try the roll-your-own cha ca spring rolls and check the schedule for live traditional music.

QUAN AN NGON CONTEMPORARY STREET FOOD 18 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 8162 sales@ngonhanoi.com 7am to 9.30pm Long-time favourite serving up Vietnamese classics in a large French villa and courtyard. Menu is huge, made up of street-food options and higher end dishes from Hanoi, Hue and Ho Chi Minh City.

Quick service makes it ideal for lunch and the array of options makes it perfect for newcomers to Vietnamese cuisine. Order loads and share, of course.

MID TO TOP AU LAC HOUSE INDOCHINE / VIETNAMESE 13 Tran Hung Dao Tel: 3933 3533 Set in converted colonial villas and frequented primarily by travelers that unload in front of the establishment on massive tour buses, this venue is imbued with the nostalgia of Indochine, replete with chess boards, stylish fans and waitresses outfitted in ao dais. Boasts a large menu filled with Vietnamese favourites and much more.

CLUB OPERA NOVEL PAN-VIETNAMESE 17 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3972 8001 clubopera@orientalstars.com.vn 10am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm Indochine elegance mixes with top-end

culinary flair to create one of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town. Fine dining it isn't — this country's cuisine doesn't really lend itself to that type of cooking. But quality ingredients and a twist of creativity makes the fare here well worth the higher price tag — think creative spring rolls and lobster cooked up with a passion-fruit sauce. This is just the start. Also has a great downstairs lounge bar.

SOFTWATER VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 42 Duong 9, F361, An Duong, Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: 2260 8968 10am-10pm Imperial-era architecture, a rock garden with trees almost 300 years old, a beautiful lawn area and contemporary Asian-influenced international fare make up the mix at this quite unique top-end restaurant. The cuisine and drinks don’t come cheap, but then establishments such as Softwater are a rarity. Has both an international and a Vietnamese menu and is located by the river in An Duong at the end of Road 9, close to the Sofitel Plaza.

TRUNG DUONG VIETNAMESE SEAFOOD 55 Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0787 10am to 10pm There are two of these restaurants in Vietnam and the other is in Phu Quoc, the location of probably the best seafood in the country. Every type of ocean-breathing animal is available here in addition to an array of tofu and vegetables. From crab to Russian sturgeon and grouper, most of this seafood harks from down south or Halong Bay. The restaurant is set up so that every day is a banquet and you can pick your poisons from the tank.

WILD LOTUS CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 55A Nguyen Du Tel: 3943 9342 www.wildlotus.com.vn 10.30am to 10.30pm One of the city’s most popular Vietnamese restaurants is a delight from the entrance inwards. Walk over water features and 100 roses and up the spiral staircase into subdued lighting, warm colours and a menu that mixes subtle, well-executed Asian flavours. Not for those who love the sharpness of some street foods, but definitely for those who have guests in town or business clients to schmooze.

Quite an experience.

Nick Ross

RESTOBARS +

DALUVA

CLASSY FUSION 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 5831 www.daluva.com A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor.

Additional services include catering, BBQ rentals, playroom, kids menu, takeaway and local delivery.

DERRY'S

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IRISH / WESTERN / ASIAN 63 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0614 derryspub@gmail.com 3pm to midnight A multi-storey Singaporean-Vietnamese run Irish joint with all the Celtic accoutrements and drinks — think Guinness, Jameson's and Bushmills. Located on the lake, the venue also has an international food menu which takes in anything from Irish beef stew through to fish head curry,

beef rendang, tom yam soup and more.

Has a solid local following and amiable know-your-name owners.

ETE BAR FRENCH LOUNGE 95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh Tel: 0976 751331 www.etehanoi.com 10am to midnight A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multi-storey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails.

For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

J.A.F.A.

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INTERNATIONAL The Clubhouse, Ciputra Tel: 3758 2400 7am to 11pm One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance.

They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.

JACKSONS STEAKHOUSE 23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 8388 This new addition to the city from the Alfresco’s Group is definitely the meatiest yet. In the shape of a four floor, chic restobar — which has a bar lounge on the ground, a restaurant vibe on the second and third, and a “boardroom” on the fourth — Jacksons Steakhouse serves of well presented plates of imported Oz and New Zealand steaks as well as seafood.

Of course, the large restaurant wouldn’t be complete without a large wine list to match.

JASPA’S LOUNGE

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INTERNATIONAL 23C Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 6555 www.alfrescosgroup.com 9.30am to midnight Formerly known as Jo Jo’s, this miniscule yet attractive space is first and foremost a wine bar serving up tasty, western-style fusion cuisine in an elegant, subtly lit setting. Black sofa chairs line the interior, providing the perfect place to park up and chow down. Part of the Al Fresco’s Group.

LA PETIT TONKINOISE ART DECO / INTERNATIONAL 58A Tran Quoc Toan, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm Located on the corner of Quang Trung, this large new cafe, restaurant and bar is housed in a restored colonial building. The beautiful courtyard is liberally decorated with plants, fans, blowlight jets of water, and shade is provided by tasteful cream parasols. Inside, a non-smoking, airconditioned room is the perfect place to escape the heat. Western and Vietnamese fare is on offer, they have a huge range of wine, beer and coffee and they serve excellent fries too.

LE PUB BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 2104 www.lepub.org 7am to midnight Dark red walls and even darker brown seating run through the homely and

casual Le Pub, one of the few bars in town with a regular stream of clientele.

A long list of imported beer, Tiger draft, a decent international cum Vietnamese food menu, happy hour specials and live sport make up the comfortable mix.

The venue also gets involved in the local community through regular events. Has a second Le Pub at Third Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho.

OLA DE TAPAS

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SPANISH 26 Lan Ong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 8585 2563 9am to 11pm Nestled just off the main Old Quarter drag, this bar and restaurant daubed in the colours of the Spanish flag is the first genuine Iberian tapas bar in town. Sells a range of fare from paella through to tapas, a selection of tortilla and Spanish mains, and also serves lethal but tasty sangria.

Spanish tempanillos and reds make up the enigmatic mix.

Leisure & Arts Listings AMUSEMENT 083 BOOKS SHOPS 083 CINEMAS 083 CLUBS & SOCIETIES 083 COOKING CLASSES 084 DANCING 084 FITNESS 084 FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY 084 GALLERIES 085 GOLF COURSES 085 MASSAGE 085 HAIDRESSERS & SALONS 086 KIDS 086

LEISURE GENERAL 086 NAILS 086 PERFORMING ARTS 087 SPAS 087 SPORTS CLASSES 088 TENNIS 088 VIETNAMESE CLASSES 088 ARTS CLASSES 088 ARTICLES MEDICAL BUFF 084 MUSIC BUFF 085 CINEMA BUFF 086 BOOK BUFF 087

PUKU INTERNATIONAL / CAFE 16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 1745 Open 24 hours This spacious spot on food street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, catering both to ravenous backpackers who’ve just arrived off the night train from Sapa and locals looking to meet up.

ROOFTOP SKYLINE LOUNGE 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 1901 therooftop@vnn.vn 8am to midnight If location counts for anything, then here it is spectacular. With a 270-degree view over the whole of the city, the up-on-high theme of the Rooftop is used to its full.

The bar is pretty cool, too, with bare brick, sofa-style seating, glass fronted wine displays and a private room out back for more intimate drinking. Also does day-time office lunches, coffee and decent bar food.

SANDBOX INTERNATIONAL / WINE AND JAZZ 12 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh Tel: 3927 5708 5.30pm to midnight Tucked into a quiet street close to Truc Bach, this romantic, Parisian-styled lounge exhibits art from up-and-coming Hanoi artists and is best experienced on the nights with live music. The menu offerings are rich and robust, from chicken curry to spaghetti and roast duck, all created to pair well with wine. Come for dinner and stay for the live jazz and well-curated wine selection.

SOUTHGATE CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3398 1979 www.southgatehanoi.com An American-run casual yet sophisticated restobar on Food Street with a great outdoor terrace area, a shared indoor bar space, a chef’s table and upstairs seating.

Matched by contemporary décor, the creative food menu focuses on doing comfort food well, while a decent new and old world wine list and innovative cocktails make up the mix. Popular with the media and artsy set.

CINEMAS

AMUSEMENT BINGO CAFÉ 57 Yen Phu, Tay Ho A proper two-floor pool hall with a restaurant on the ground floor. Plenty of tables in good condition, great for a night out.

COSMOS 168 Ngoc Khanh, Dong Da This bowling alley may be small, but if you’re hankering for a night at the lanes, this one has instant replay cameras that will show your strike again in slow motion.

HANOI STAR BOWL 2B Pham Ngoc Trach, Dong Da Tel: 3574 1614 Plenty of lanes, and the zany colours add to the festive feel. A game will cost VND27,000, plus a little extra for the shoe rental. All in all it makes for a night of good fun.

QUAN TOM 89 Bui Thi Xuan Tel: 3294 47844 The staff at this karaoke bar is quite friendly. Large, comfortable rooms, and – their claim to fame – a vast English language track list, makes for a good night.

BOOK SHOPS BOOKWORM 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 3711 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice.

HIEU SACH THANG LONG 55 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 7043 A large bookstore with mostly Vietnamese material, but there is also a selection of French and English books and even some literature.

XUNHASABA 32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 4068 Often referred to just as ‘The Foreign Language Bookstore’, you’ll find a decent selection of both books and magazines.

Their biggest section is composed of ESL materials, but you will also find fiction.

CINEMATHEQUE 22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 2648 Not a movie theater per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films from all over the world.

MEGASTAR Vincom Towers, 191 Ba Trieu, 6th floor, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3974 3333 www.megastarmedia.net Inside Vincom towers, this big, westernstyle multiplex shows some of the latest English language and Asian foreign films.

The experience includes fairly wellstocked concession stands, comfortable seats, air conditioning and a booming sound system.

NATIONAL CINEMA CENTRE 87 Lang Ha, Dong Da Tel: 3514 2278 Cineplex with several smaller theaters and an arcade. Movies are quite cheap, especially matinees. Be sure to ask if the movie is subtitled in Vietnamese or dubbed.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES DEMOCRATS ABROAD – VIETNAM www.democratsabroad.org Affiliated with the American Democratic Party, like-minded and politically active individuals can stay in touch and continue to affect the political winds that are blowing Stateside. Hosts regular events for every major election cycle.

AMERICAN CLUB 21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3824 1850 www.americanclubhanoi.com A bit worn around the edges, but the facilities are still useful and the grounds pleasant. They host frequent events that are open to the public. Wide lawn, volleyball and basketball courts may make the place worth a visit.

HANOI CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 The exclusive social and fitness club is located on the banks of West Lake. Golfers hit balls into the lake from the driving range and swimmers enjoy a lovely view from the pool. The gym is small and classes are not included as part of the steep yearly membership fees.

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MEDICAL BUFF HIV in Vietnam: Reality and Hope

L’ESPACE

ELITE FITNESS

HANOI YOUTH FOOTBALL LEAGUE

24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 2164 www.ambafrance-vn.org The cultural arm of the French Embassy is very active in the cultural life of the city.

They both organise and host many functions – music, performing arts, film. Large French language library as well as classes and workshops.

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6281 www.elitefitness.com.vn The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range.

www.hanoiyouthfootball.com/english/home/ The biggest youth football league in the capital. Youths aged 8 to 16 years old come together to play regular tournaments.

COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE

With World AIDS Day on Dec. 1, the team at Family Medical Practice reflect on AIDS in Vietnam WORLDWIDE STATISTICS FOR HIV infection continue to appall. Most recent global stats (end of 2009) indicate there were 2.6 million new infections in 2009 despite massive efforts to educate about the disease. Another way to gauge the gravity of the situation is to know that there are 1,000 children contracting the disease per day across the world.

Out of a total population of 89 million in Vietnam, the number of people living with HIV/AIDS was estimated to be 280,000 (end of 2009) of whom 27 percent were women. The adult HIV prevalence in Vietnam is 0.4 percent. Apart from Lao (0.2 percent), Vietnam has lowest prevalence rate for the disease in Southeast Asia. Aids related deaths in Vietnam in 2009 were estimated at 14,000.

The HIV epidemic in Vietnam is still in a concentrated stage, with the highest HIV prevalence found in male injecting drugs users (18.4 percent), female sex workers (3.2 percent) and men who have sex with men (16.7 percent). However the HIV epidemic may have begun to stabilize, as reflected by stable trends in HIV prevalence among injecting drugs users (it was estimated that 18 percent of injecting drug users were living with HIV in 2009, compared to 29 percent in 2004) and female sex workers in many areas of the country.

MAJOR CHALLENGES Despite the great efforts to address HIV, people living with it continue to face stigma and discrimination. There are issues with prevention, treatment, care and support services, as well as human resources — limitations in the quantity and quality of human resources inhibit the expansion of best practices at both the provincial and district level.

Sustainable funding is also an issue;

84 | The Word December 2011

the sustainability of the response and the targeted allocation of domestic and donor funds requires urgent attention (Source: UN). During the period 2007 to 2008, international sources accounted for 90 percent and public sources almost 10 percent of total AIDS spending.

The sustainability of the response is a significant issue as Vietnam approaches middle income country status and donor funding is likely to decrease.

AND NEW HOPE Vietnam announced in May 2011 that it is taking the lead in universal access to comprehensive HIV services as the first country to pilot Treatment 2.0 — a new generation of HIV treatment that radically decreases AIDS-related deaths and helps to prevent HIV infection.

"Vietnam will pilot Treatment 2.0 in the hope that we can provide everyone in need with HIV prevention, treatment, care and support," said Associate Professor Dr Bui Duc Duong, Deputy Administrator at the Vietnam Administration of HIV/ AIDS Control (VAAC), who presented the Treatment 2.0 pilot at the World Health Assembly in Geneva. It will be launched later this year (2011) in two of Vietnam’s provinces with the highest HIV burden.

Treatment 2.0, which is a joint initiative of the World Health Organization (WHO) and United Nations Programme for HIV/AIDS (UNAIDS), includes a more optimized drug regime for people living with HIV, cheaper and simpler diagnostic tools and a low-cost community-led approach to delivery.

Evidence in recent studies confirms that in addition to saving lives, anti-retroviral therapy — when initiated early enough —successfully suppresses a person’s viral load and reduces the risk of HIV transmission (Source: WHO).

FOUR SEASONS SWIMMING POOL

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0088. www.hanoicookingcentre.com Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da Tel: 3537 6250 This beautiful hotel has a swimming pool for VND40,000 per day, and another VND10,000 for a locker to keep your pantaloons. It might be a good idea to go during the off hours, as it’s a well used pool. But if laps are what you want, the pool is large and, at times, quiet.

HIDDEN HANOI

HANOI FITNESS

137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 0912 254045 www.hiddenhanoi.com.vn A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3715 0577 The well-known restaurant also offers one-off cooking courses in the kitchens at their Truc Bach location. Don’t worry if you forget some of the tricks, as the class includes a recipe booklet.

KOTO Lane 52/28, House 9, To Ngoc Van Tel: 3747 0377 www.koto.com.vn This charitable organisation, which helps street kids gain the skills to succeed in the hospitality industry, also offers cooking classes to the public on Tuesdays at their training centre. Learn how to make some of the items on their menu at home. Pick up is also available at their Van Mieu location.

DANCING ASPARA DANCE STUDIO 137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 7916 Located in the same building as Hidden Hanoi, Aspara is a multi-genre dance studio. Will provide instruction in everything from belly dance, to meringue, salsa and bachata.

ROCKIT FITNESS Tel: 0126 6257214 yurymiankovich@gmail.com Yury is an internationally certified personal and group exercise specialist who teaches at the gyms and provides individual trainings. Offers a good work out that incorporates jazz, hip-hop, reggae and African tribal movements. For Further info contact Yury directly through email or by telephone.

FITNESS CLUB OLYMPIA 4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 1049 For a monthly fee of VND170,000 you can have access to all of this well-equipped health club. There’s a swimming pool, tennis courts, weight lifting area, tread mills and everything else you might expect to find for a full work out, even if it doesn’t have all the privacy in the changing and showering areas you might be used to. Equipment could do with an upgrade, though. Also offers aerobics classes.

Tel: 01256 898069 www.hanoifitness.com Hanoi Fitness is run by Henrik Olofssen, a young Swedish personal trainer. No gym, no workout space, just call and make an appointment for a personal fitness routine designed around your personal needs.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY 475 Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho Tel: 01267 239974 (Arnaud), www.k1-factory. com Already with a well-known sister fitness factory in Saigon, K1 specialises in mixed martial arts and fight training and private fitness conditioning in a location overlooking the south end of Ho Tay. Run

by Frenchman Arnaud Le Pont, disciplines trained at this centre include Thai boxing, Brazilian JJB, grappling, wrestling, kick boxing and English-style boxing.

NSHAPE FITNESS 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da Tel: 6266 0495 www.nshapefitness.vn This gym with American Life Fitness cardio and weight machines, provides a clean, uncrowded environment and expertly staffed facilities with a selection of fitness classes for its members. Classes include boxing, yoga and groupX with both Vietnamese and foreign fitness trainers on hand to give exercisers advice.

Membership starts from VND1.5 million per month with no joining fee.

STAR FITNESS

VIET CELTS www.vietcelts.com The first and only Gaelic Football league in Hanoi has recently added a women’s team. The teams play in the Southeast Asia Gaelic League as well as in tournaments all over the region. Bring a sporting spirit as a spectator or a player.

Call Gareth for more information: 0904 228629.

VIETNAM SWANS www.vietnamswans.com In true Aussie style, the Vietnam Swans footballers hold not only weekly matches and training sessions, but social and drinking affairs as well. Concerned just as much with fun as with winning, this club is welcoming to anyone who is willing to have a good time.

GALLERIES APRICOT GALLERY 40B Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 8965 www.apricot-artvietnam.com This centrally located space houses art by some of Vietnam’s best-known contemporary artists, such as Hoang Hai Anh and Dinh Quan, as well as up and coming artists.

ART VIETNAM 7 Nguyen Khac Nhu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3927 2349 www.artvietnamgallery.com One of Vietnam’s best known and respected galleries, features contemporary Vietnamese art in all its forms: sculpture, painting, lacquer, photography and video, from both up-and-coming and wellestablished artists. Check their website for a list of exhibitions and events.

BUI GALLERY 23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3944 8595 www.thebuigallery.com Housed in a picturesque French colonial villa, Bui Gallery is one of Hanoi's newest and boldest modern art galleries. Features cutting-edge contemporary art from Vietnam, Indonesia, China, Brazil, the US and Europe.

4th Floor, The Garden, Me Tri, Tu Liem Tel: 3787 5353 This lifestyle, top-end gym in My Dinh offers massage rooms, steam rooms, saunas, Jacuzzis, cold plunge baths, gym areas, exercise studios, locker rooms, and a swimming pool. It is a great option for residents living on the outskirts of the city.

HANOI ART CONTEMPORARY GALLERY

SUNWAY HEALTH CLUB

113 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0568 www.maigallery-vietnam.com Several floors of paintings, regularly changed, by some of the best known contemporary artists in the country, some of whom they’ve helped in gaining international recognition. Mai specialises is finding the perfect décor for both homes and offices.

19 Pham Dinh Ho, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3971 3888 Very good equipment in this small gym, housed in a little hotel. None of the extra frills that you might expect at a larger place, but all the machines are running and well maintained. Monthly price of membership for non-guests is about VND1.4 million.

FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY HANOI CAPITALS FOOTBALL CLUB www.hanoi-capitals.blogspot.com Hanoi Capitals don’t play. This football club is serious about their sport. The uniforms and attitudes alone tell you they’re no Bad News Bears. If you want to let your skills shine get in contact with Ricky at 0903 413339.

36-38 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 7192 www.hanoi-artgallery.com This art space is home to a large collection of your standard tourist fare along with a smatter of more unique pieces.

MAI GALLERY

MAISON DES ARTS 31 Van Mieu, Dong Da Tel: 3747 8096 www.maisondesartshanoi.com A gallery near the Temple of Literature with several floors bills itself not only as an art gallery, but a multi-purpose social and cultural space. Frequent exhibitions feature both Vietnamese and international artists. Mlle. Nga, who runs the space,

also involves herself in several other cultural projects around Hanoi.

RED RIVER GALLERY

MUSIC BUFF

BY DEBBIE CLARE

7 Hang Khay, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 9071 www.redriverartvietnam.com This small gallery has focused on building a collection of traditional Hanoi images with a modern twist since it opened in 1990. The gallery actively seeks out talented young contemporary artists.

SUFFUSIVE GALLERY 35A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem www.suffusiveart.com Don’t be fooled by the signs hawking café sua da. Hidden within the coffee shop interior is a small gallery showing some of Vietnam’s newest talent.

TADIOTO 113 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tadioto hosts an alternative gallery above the bar and café on the ground floor. A thoughtful space containing rare works by serious artists questioning quick development or changes in societal norms. Hosts frequent literary and musical events, along with presentations of artwork that differs from what’s available elsewhere in Hanoi.

VIET FINE ARTS GALLERY 96 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 6667 www.vietfinearts.com If you’re looking for a well-known name, and a high price tag to match, Viet Fine Arts sells work by some of Hanoi’s more famous artists.

54 TRADITIONS GALLERY 30 Hang Bun, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3715 0194 www.54traditions.com.vn The only gallery in Vietnam focusing on the antiques, artifacts and art of Vietnam’s 53 minority groups and the Kinh majority people. Has over 1,000 items on display and objects in the collection have been exhibited in museums both in Hanoi and abroad.

GOLF COURSES HANOI CLUB DRIVING RANGE 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3623 8115 A fitness club that also boasts a two-level driving range where the balls are hit into the water. No net means you can gauge your driving. The price for a bucket of golf balls depends on whether or not you’re a member.

LANG HA DRIVING RANGE 6 Huynh Thuc Kang, Ba Dinh Tel: 3835 0909 The driving range has two levels and a netted area to catch the balls. Although the facilities might not be up to country club standards, it is in a relatively convenient location. One can either pay a monthly membership fee of around VND2 million, or pay by the ball as you go.

TAM DAO GOLF AND RESORT www.tamdaogolf.com Relatively new golf club near the base of the mountains at Tam Dao. It is about two hours from the city, but does provide an 18-hole course with a clubhouse and a spectacular view, surrounded by green hills.

MASSAGE JUST MASSAGE 237 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 6671 2249 www.justmassage.org.vn Aromatherapy, Swedish, shiatsu and

Our resident music boffin selects the venue, artists and music events to watch out for this December EVENTS OF THE MONTH Italian jazz-peppered roots, rhythms and melodies performed by awardwinning musicians; that's what you're in for if you make it along to the Labour Theatre (42 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem) on Dec. 9. In celebration of 150 years since the Unification of Italy, the Embassy of Italy in Vietnam presents 'Dialektos' — a jazz concert performed by top Italian duo Maria Pia De Vito and Huw Warren. Drawing inspiration from the southern Italian city of Naples, De Vito's ability to mix scat and beat-boxing with traditional Italian folk music, makes this the must-see event of the month. Tickets go from VND200,000 and can be booked at ticketvn.com, ticketvn@fpt. vn or from the Labour Theatre.

If it's been a while since you've had your mind bent and your senses sonically assaulted, then it might be time to reset the timer. On Dec. 16, the Embassy of Denmark's Cultural Development and Exchange Fund (CDEF) will present a brilliant mix of music improvisation and live photography at the Goethe Institut (56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc). This 3D improvisation performance is intended to stimulate the senses through sound, light and feeling, using spontaneous, free expression.

You might be invited to get involved, you might not, but either way there's nothing to lose as this unique event is free.

It's Tuesday night, you're already wishing the week was over and counting the minutes to the weekend. Fear not, there is an outlet

for your woes. Every Tuesday, in a location offering panoramic views of the city, The Rooftop presents Future Lounge — an event showcasing the acclaimed Australian DJ Cache.

Drawing influences from original soul, funk, jazz, disco and house, Cache's musical CV ranges from some of the hottest clubs in Australia to underground events in the UK and a multitude of international festivals, including an appearance at Hanoi's beloved CAMA festival earlier this year. For table reservations call 01239 549900 or 3946 1901. The Rooftop is on the 19th Floor of Pacific Place at 83B Ly Thuong Kiet.

Every weekend from now until Jan. 11, classically trained musicians can be spotted performing out on the street at 61 Ly Thai To. This brilliant, inclusive and innovative project mixes Vietnamese street culture with classical music. More than 20 performers from the Vietnam National Symphony Orchestra, Vietnam National Opera Ballet and VNAM Orchestra will perform works by the likes of Mozart, Vivaldi, Schubert and Elgar (to name but a few), and it's all absolutely free.

Under the name of LUALA Concerts and located in front of the Music Publishing House, the concerts take place every Saturday from 3pm to 5pm, and every Sunday from 10am to 12pm and then again from 3pm to 5pm.

Debbie has over 10 years of experience in the international live music sector as a booking agent, gig promoter and vocalist.

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CINEMA BUFF In the theatres this month…

MISSION IMPOSSIBLE 4: GHOST PROTOCOL Director: Brad Bird Stars: Tom Cruise, Jeremy Renner and Paula Patton

pregnancy massages all given by the hands and touch of nine visually impaired therapists. The massages here are professional and, of course, in aid of a great cause. Check their website for their range of promotions.

HANOI AESTHETIC INSTITUTE 14 Yen Phu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3945 4548 www.vienthammyhanoi.com.vn Trained at the Tue Tinh Traditional Hospital, the therapists at this no frills, traditional Vietnamese massage centre use a variety of techniques including tuina, aromatherapy, ayurvedic and shiatsu.

Also offer a range of healing treatments as well as not-so-traditional laser and plastic surgery.

THANH GIA

With the IMF falsely linked to a plot to blow up Moscow’s Kremlin, Ethan Hunt (Tom Cruise) and his team have to go rogue and work off the grid to clear their organisation’s name. Ethan is then forced to embark on this mission with a team of fellow IMF fugitives whose personal motives he does not fully know. Ending up in Dubai, he finds himself searching for a mysterious woman who may bring some clues to help him achieve his goal.

Mission Impossible hits screens on Dec. 16 at MegaStar (191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung) and Platinum Cineplex (The Garden Shopping Center, Me Tri, Tu Liem)

SANTA CLAUS IS A STINKER (1982) Le Pere Noel Est Une Ordure Director: Jean-Marie Poire Stars: Anemone, Josiane Balasko and Marie-Anne Chazel The French Cultural Centre brings in a seasonal Christmas comedy that many French claim that they know by heart. Pierre and Therese, two ‘neurotics’ working as volunteers at a telephone helpline for lonely and depressed people, receive visits from unwanted callers: Katia, a depressed transvestite who wants to hit on Pierre, and Josette, a heavily pregnant woman on the run from her fiancé Felix.

Santa Claus Is a Stinker will be shown in French with Vietnamese subtitles at the French Cultural Centre (L’Espace) at 8pm on Dec. 16

THE DARKEST HOUR Director: Chris Gorak Stars: Emile Hirsch, Olivia Thirlby and Max Minghella Luke, Oliver, Holly and Anne decide to spend their holidays with a friend in Moscow. But they have chosen a bad time: in a rainy night in the city, some strange objects that look like ball lightning appear in the sky. Soon they find out it’s a plan by aliens to conquer the planet. The holiday goers, with other survivors in the city, try to defend against the attackers and believe they have identified an Achilles heel: the aliens need a huge amount of electrical energy and transfer to survive.

Hits the cinemas on Dec. 30 at MegaStar and Platinum Cineplex ALVIN AND THE CHIPMUNKS: CHIP-WRECKED Directors: Mike Mitchell Stars: Justin Long, Matthew Gray Gubler and Jesse McCartney The singing, pre-teen chipmunk trio including the mischievous leader Alvin, brainy Simon, and chubby Theodore return to the screen, this time with an unintentional trip. While playing on a cruise ship, they accidentally go overboard and end up in a tropical paradise, where the real adventure begins.

Released on Dec. 23. Watch it at MegaStar and Platinum Cineplex.

86 | The Word December 2011

18 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 38 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem One of a number of foot massage parlours in town that has treatments focusing as much on the pressure points of your feet at they do on the rest of your body.

Strong hands, unbranded oils and, if you ask, tiger balm oil.

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON

TRAN HUNG HAIR CREATION 5 Ho Xuan Huong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 4946 Located near Reunification Park, Hung has a long list of satisfied clients, both western and Vietnamese. Be prepared to allot one to two hours for a cut and more for colour as Hung is a perfectionist.

KIDS HANOI ZOO Off Kim Ma, opposite Daewoo Hotel Tel: 3834 7395 Really as much a park as it is a zoo, you can find Vietnamese families on picnics here on any given day. Strewn throughout, sometimes in curiously small cages, you’ll also find a number of animals large and small, all indigenous to the country. Also, there are other attractions for children such as a fun house, and big, floating plastic balls they can climb into. The One Man Cinema operates out of here at weekends.

THANG LONG WATER PUPPET THEATRE Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem Daily shows of traditional rustic Vietnamese carved puppets, animate folkloric tales accompanied by music. This can be fun for adults as well as children.

2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh Tel: 09877 18899 A small but popular hair salon that serves both expats and locals. The many repeat customers go back because of Dinh’s willingness to both follow instructions, or to be creative when asked. Services include scalp massage, shampooing, colouring and styling.

VINCOM TOWERS

FRANGIPANI SPA

HANOI HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

405 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 6329 2915 www.frangipani.com.vn New garden-themed day spa named after the frangipani flower, known in Vietnam for its healing properties. Services include hair salon, nail care and massages.

Details to amenities like bathrobes, slippers and towels provide a comfortable atmosphere.

TA SALON Hanoi Club, 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3716 1754 / 3758 2940 (Ciputra).

Hotline: 0912 267613 Multi-functional hair and body salon with a range of treatments running from haircut, highlights, shampoo, straightening and perm to hot stone foot and body massages, a range of facials, waxing, bikini lines and body scrub. With a first salon in Ciputra, TA number two is at the Hanoi club. Popular with both western and Asian expats as well as A-class Vietnamese.

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung There are a bunch of toy stores and shops for children in the mall area of the second tower. Also, near the food court, you’ll find an arcade with video games and tiny rides for very small kids.

LEISURE GENERAL www.hanoih3.com This big, assorted “family” gets together every week to go on out of town excursions, for hour-long runs along paths marked by flour spots, and with no lack of beer stops along the way. Drink and get into shape at the same time, and add some sight-seeing into the picture.

Emphasis here is on fun. Bus leaves on Saturdays from the American Club on Hai Ba Trung at 2pm in summer and 1:30pm in winter.

HANOI LITTLE LEAGUE BASEBALL www.hanoibaseball.com If you’re looking for a little league baseball team in Hanoi, this is the website to check out. One of the first, if not still the only, such club in town, their mission is to teach young people about the game, teamwork and to have a great time.

Practice every Saturday at Xuan Dinh Field from 6.15 to 8.30 am

NAILS

THE HAIR WORKSHOP

FANCY SPA

49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 5980 Located in Hanoi Towers, The Hair Workshop has a number of hairdressers used to cutting and styling all types of hair. The prices are significantly higher than they would be on the street, or at a smaller shop, but there are many people who refuse to go anywhere else. A full service salon that also offers such services as waxing.

26 Dinh Ngang, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3824 4183 A small Vietnamese spa and salon. Prices are quite high, but the shop offers a wide range of services in addition to manicure/ pedicure.

HAIR SPACE 137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 0912 127554 Run by an Australian expat named Cat, this is a small but comfortable and well-run hair studio located in the Hidden Hanoi building. There is only Cat and her one assistant, so be sure to make an appointment.

LINKQ 271 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3725 2359 One of a chain of all-purpose beauty salons that specialises in manicures and pedicures. This place has a lot of business from word of mouth, so it’s best to call ahead and make an appointment.

pedicures in a Zen-like atmosphere where your manicurist won’t be chatting on her mobile phone.

TOP SPOT 52 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 8344 They offer a long-lasting, professional manicure and pedicure service for barely more than you would pay to get your nails cut on the street. The staff doesn’t speak much English, but they have an extensive menu to choose from.

PERFORMING ARTS HANOI CIRCUS 67 Tran Nhan Tong, Hai Ba Trung For VND50,000, see an array of live performances, both human and animal. Bears ride motorbikes, monkeys do tricks. The acrobatic performances are particularly amazing.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS) www.hitshanoi.com Hanoi’s premiere community theatre group has been entertaining audiences around the city since 2001. The amateur acting society both draws from and gives back to the local community. All profits from the bi-yearly performances are donated to charities in Vietnam.

HANOI OPERA HOUSE 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 0113 www.ticketvn.com This French colonial building hosts a packed schedule of cultural events

SWIMMING POOLS ARMY HOTEL 33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 2896

FOUR SEASONS 14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da Tel: 3537 6250

HANOI CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com

HORISON FITNESS CENTER 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0808

MELIA HOTEL 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 3343

OLYMPIA 4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 1049

SAO MAI 10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 3161

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTER 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8888

THAN NHAN Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung, (Inside the park)

THU CUC EXOTICAL SPA 57 Nguyen Khac Hien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0316 www.thucucbeauty.com This all-purpose beauty salon offers spa

THANG LOI HOTEL 200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho

throughout the year, everything from the New York Philharmonic to cutting edge Vietnamese performance art has graced its stage.

THANG LONG CA TRU THEATRE 25 Tong dan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3665 54608 Head to this theatre, lodged on the campus of the Vietnam Revolution Museum, for a taste of one of Vietnam’s most traditional musical forms.

BOOK BUFF Four Books in Four Weeks

As Bookworm turns 10, Truong digs through his collection of 15,000 books to give you four random recommendations for December

YOUTH THEATRE 11 Ngo Thi Nham, Hoan Kiem A few blocks south of Hoan Kiem Lake, this community theatre space hosts both music events and theatre productions.

SPAS KIM DUNG 38 Nguyen Cong Hoan, Ba Dinh Tel: 3483 50079 Face massage, hair care, manicure, pedicure, this is a one-stop shop for all sorts of comfort services and products. Facilities are clean and modern. Hairstyling also available.

LANCY SPA 35 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9461 This all-purpose spa offers the full menu: massage, nails, skincare at reasonable prices. Discounts offered to regular customers.

LE SPA DU METROPOLE Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 6919 sparec@sofitelhanoi.vnn.vn A five-star spa for a five-star hotel, this colonial-style centre of relaxation is pure luxury. Choose the genre of music you want to hear in your treatment room from a menu, select anything from themenamed facials through to traditional, Vietnamese-style massages, and indulge.

It comes at price, but when you’ve just got to treat yourself…

ORCHIDS SPA 34 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 4862 www.orchids-spa.com Just a few steps away from bia hoi corner, the unisex Orchids spa recently one a VTV award for being one of the top spas in Hanoi. Treatments range from facials through to waxing, saunas and slimming treatments.

SANTAL SPA 112 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 4686 Private rooms with showers, a beautifully designed interior, well-trained and professional staff. The place to go if you want to forget a busy work week, or the busy streets.

THU CUC EXOTICAL SPA 57 Nguyen Khac Hien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0316 Near Truc Bac, Thu Cuc is an all-purpose spa where you can get a full-body massage, a facial, manicure or pedicure in a relaxing environment. Both prices and service are comparable to the West.

ZEN SPA 100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9889 www.zenspa.com.vn Brushing up against the banks of the Red River, this Indochine-styled day spa hideaway comes replete with an oasis-like bonsai garden and peace and quiet, a perfect tonic to the chaos of the city. Has a range of five-element spa packages as well as just one-off facials and waxings and other treatments. Has a second

IT’S 50 YEARS SINCE THE NEW YORK TIMES ran an advert headed WHAT’S THE CATCH? and launched Joseph Heller’s Catch-22 into the stratosphere of successful publishing.

That ‘catch’ is now used in conversations by people who haven’t even heard of the novel and the term Catch-22 has become synonymous for impossible predicaments caused by purposeful and sinister bureaucratic tricks that harm the innocent and un-wary.

It’s said to be a satire on 1950s America, protesting about the moral chaos that McCarthyism unleashed on intellectual and creative development. One of the best things that Catch-22 gives us is language to make fun of those in power who get their way by clouding and muddling the facts.

If you haven’t already, it’s about time you met American/Assyrian John Yossarian who discovered the catch, Colonel Cathcart who put the catch in place, and Milos Minderbender who turned the catch to his own devilish advantage.

Look for Calvin and Hobbes this month — two cartoon characters drawn and written about by Bill Watterson from 1985 to 1995. The philosophical discussions, adventures of 6-year-old Calvin and his toy tiger, Hobbes, are still circulating in newspapers and every time you read one it seems as fresh and as new as each morning’s sun. Now two volumes dedicated to all strips drawn

by Watterson are available and they are odes to individualism that manage to exist outside the constraints of mindbending consumerism and deliberate intellectual dumbing down by the mass media. Calvin (based on the 16th Century Swiss reformist theologian) and Hobbes (based on the 17th Century British political philosopher) tackle and lampoon a variety of broad, timeless issues from an American perspective.

On the way they are brought to heel by a select group of characters that range from the caring, the ultra authoritarian and the conservative to the feminist and the all-conquering bully.

If you have children, be sure to buy the delightful Let’s Go On a Bear Hunt, which uses

an old campfire rhyme as a basis and follows a family of Mum, Dad and three children as they happily swish through the green grass, splash through the river and squelch through the mud in search of an imaginary bear. But, of course, they are not prepared for the surprise that awaits them in the dark cave on the other side of the forest. It’s been in print since 1989 but is still one of the best books you’ll buy for pre-schoolers.

The repeated phrases and rhymes, together with the fabulous illustrations by Helen Oxenbury, make it one of the books you’ll most enjoy reading to a child.

Staying with children and catch twenty twos, it’s time to mention that brilliantly controversial book We Need To Talk About Kevin, which has just been released as a stunningly good movie with Tilda Swinton in an Oscar deserving role as Kevin’s mother. The burning proposition that female author, Lionel Shriver, puts before the reader is that perhaps not all children are born innocent. Most readers hate the mother from the start. Some grow to despise the father. A few get so angry that they refuse to reach the novel’s devastating conclusion. After reading it and viewing the movie, most parents of male offspring will definitely not be encouraging them to take up archery. — Find Truong at Bookworm, 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh.

The Word December 2011 | 87

fashion

medical

outlet at 100 Xuan Dieu as well as spas in Hoi An.

SPORTS CLASSES

its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.

Medical Listings

HOANG CAU SPORTS CENTRE 59 Hoang Cau, Dong Da Tel: 3511 8030 The distinction of this fitness centre is that they have a large space, filled with a “number of different fields of different sizes”. Includes areas for aerobics, football and rugby. Classes depend, according to the season.

UNIS COMMUNITY EDUCATION UN International School, Tay Ho Tel: 3758 1551 www.unishanoi.org The UN International School is located between West Lake and the highway heading to Noi Bai Airport. They have great facilities and offer a number of different classes throughout the year.

TENNIS THUY LOI SPORTS COMPLEX 95 Chua Boc, Dong Da A wide sports pitch that also offers a swimming pool and a football field – if you get tired of tennis. Football fields are almost always crowded, but even for tennis it might be good to go during the off hours.

VAN TUE THANG LONG 136 Ho Tung Mau, Tu Liem A little bit hard to find, but Van Tue Thang Long offers quite a bit of room, with a sit-down restaurant and a few tennis courts. Facilities are a bit run down, but a place to go if you want to play tennis on concrete courts.

VIETNAMESE CLASSES VIETNAMESE TEACHING GROUP 164 Le Thanh Nghi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 7236 9842 www.vietnameseteaching.net Offers not only Vietnamese classes, but also a variety of excursions and events that will help foreigners and expats to better understand Vietnamese culture.

Organised and professional, classes are usually sold in blocks, which you pay for in advance.

VIETNAM NATIONAL UNIVERSITY B7 Bis, Bach Khoa, Dong Da Tel: 3869 4323 www.vnu.edu.vn/en This national university also offers some language and culture classes to foreigners. Teaching standards are high, and prices are not unreasonable, at around VND150,000 for a one-on-one lesson.

YOGA & MEDITATION UNESCO YOGA CENTER 3B Dang Thai Than, Ba Dinh Tel: 3913 5497 www.yoga.com.vn One of the only yoga studios in town exclusively devoted to the practice.

Professional instruction with well-trained teachers, and a very low monthly fee.

ZENITH YOGA 3rd floor, 111 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 0904 356561 www.zenithyogavietnam.com A premier studio offering some of the best yoga, pilates and tai chi in town.

Kids’ yoga, prenatal yoga and meditation are also available. Professional instruction along with a peaceful atmosphere creates one of the most zen places in Hanoi. Drop in classes are available for VND200,000 and a month unlimited class pass costs VND1.8 million.

88 | The Word December 2011

ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE DR. TRAN HUONG 80 Ngo Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0913 540907 www.drhuong.tk Dr. Tran Huong is well-known in Hanoi thanks to his long experience as both a practitioner of traditional Chinese and Western medicine. The clinic treats severe and chronic pain with a variety of drugfree methods, including acupuncture, acupressure, cupping and moxibustion.

YAKUSHI CENTER Lane 28, No 6, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 1971 The centre offers such services as acupuncture, massage and traditional Chinese medicine. One of their specialties is the hot rock massage. Run by Dr. Thuy, a qualified practitioner, the Yakushi Center has a clean and relaxing environment and takes a holistic approach to health, designed to take care of both body and mind.

COSMETICS PARKSON Cnr. Thai Ha & Tay Son, Dong Da One of the newer malls in the city, Malaysian-owned Parkson offers international name brand cosmetics. For those days when you feel like treating yourself, do your shopping in a real mall atmosphere.

TRANG TIEN PLAZA 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Stop here for everything from moisturizer to lipstick before heading upstairs to continue the shopping trip. Keep in mind, imported cosmetics don’t come cheap.

COUNSELLING INTERNATIONAL SOS VIETNAM, LTD. 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: 3934 0666 www.internationalsos.com In addition to emergency healthcare, the clinic also offers consultations by in-house specialists, full counselling and psychotherapy services. Call to make an appointment.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE Van Phuc Compound, 298 I Kim Ma Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3843 0748 (24 hours) www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Family Medical Practice provides psychotherapy and nutrition counselling services by in-house specialists. For more information or to book an appointment, please call the clinic.

COSMETIC SURGERY NEW LIFE CLINIC 6 Nguyen Thi Thap, Khu do thi moi Trung Hoa, Nhan Chinh, Tel: 6261 6166 www.newlifevietnam.comA small clinic that offers cosmetic dental work, skin treatments and minor cosmetic surgery.

The on site doctor, Ms. Ha, was trained at the University of Southern California.

DENTAL AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINIC 3 Nguyen Du, Dong Da , Tel: 3944 5216 www.nhahoaucchau.com A clinic with modern facilities and internationally trained dentists. The prices here are more than competitive than the other international dental clinics in town.

HONG NGOC HOSPITAL 95 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3716 3972 The dental practice is located on the first floor of this well-organised health clinic.

The waiting time is short and the doctors competent.

PHARMACIES

ONE DENTAL CLINIC 8, Lane 27, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6168, www.onedentalvietnam.com Dentist Michel Mitre has gathered a loyal following during his 15 years of practicing dentistry in Hanoi and now has his own practice in West Lake. Everything from a regular cleaning to tooth whitening and dental surgery is offered in a calm, relaxed environment.

H CLINIC

PEACE DENTAL CLINIC

625 Hoang Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh While it appears to be your basic street pharmacy, this small shop front stocks some hard-to-find medicine.

51a Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3715 2286 www.peaceclinic.biz Established in 2001, it is run by an American dentist named Frederick. The clinic has a number of dentists trained in such places as Japan, Denmark and the Czech Republic – so the doctors are also fluent in many languages.

INTERNATIONAL SOS 1 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: 3934 0666 24-hour emergency service with pricey, but international quality emergency and routine dental services. This is the place to go when your wisdom tooth needs pulling in the middle of the night, or you fall down and break a tooth. Competent doctors and fast service.

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho District, Hanoi Tel: 3710 0555, www.westcoastinternational.

The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who share a vision to deliver modern, highlevel dental services throughout Vietnam.

From the waiting room to the chair, the clinic is designed to provide the highest quality technology, comfort and afterservice care to patients.

MEDICAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3843 0748 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service.

FMP PEDIATRIC UNIT Van Phuc Compound, 298 D Kim Ma Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3726 5222 fmpkidshanoi@vietnammedicalpractice.com At the new Pediatric Unit of the Family Medical Practice Hanoi, services include routine newborn and well-child check-ups, updated immunizations and vaccinations, out-patient treatment and follow-up.

FMP’s pediatric specialists provide professional consultancy for every milestone in your child’s life, from infancy to adolescence.

FRENCH HOSPITAL 1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da Tel: 3577 1100 This was the first international hospital created in Hanoi, and still viewed by some as the gold standard for medical treatment. Offers everything from standard medical and preventative care to surgical procedures. Full-service hospital that has both doctors and staff that speak good French and English.

INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC 1 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3934 0666 Well-known medical clinic also known for

24T 1 Hoang Dao Thuy, Cau Giay Tel: 6251 2835 A clinic with a very large pharmacy that can fill pretty much any prescription you get in Hanoi. They also offer minor medical consultations.

NHA THUA VINH PHUC

SUPPLEMENTS AMEVITA SUPPLEMENTS Tel: 3759 2515 www.amevita.com.vn Sells high quality vitamins and supplements imported from the USA including multivitamins, probiotics, joint care, herbals, fitness and anti-aging products. Free delivery in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Available online and at select retailers.

ULTIMATE NUTRITION Hotline: 0917 295091 www.allsportvietnam.com Protein supplements, high quality vitamins, testosterone, muscle gain and fat loss supplements for those looking for professional sports nutrition to help their exercise or training regime. Call the hotline for free delivery to your home or office.

VETS ANIMAL CARE 16 ngo 424 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho Tel: 2246 1946 / 0978 776099 www.phongkhamthuy.com Locally-run clinic specialising in treating cats and dogs as well as providing a range of pet-care accessories, from animal food to clothing, toys and much more.

ASIAN VETERINARY & LIVESTOCK SERVICES (ASVELIS) 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3178 2779 www.asvelis.com English, French and Vietnamesespeaking veterinarian providing a range of medical services as well as grooming, boarding and certification for pet import and export. Also sells a range of pets toys as well as other products.

DR. BAO, MOBILE VETERINARIAN Tel: 0903 223217 vetdoctorvn@yahoo.com On-call, English-speaking veterinarian who does the rounds in Hanoi. Well-respected, knowledgeable and, according to the feedback, very funny.

INTERNATIONAL LABORATORY & VETERINARY SERVICES 31 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho District Tel: 3719 9994 www.vetsinvietnam.com A Vietnamese-owned small-animal veterinary clinic with English-speaking vets. Offers a range of healthcare and laboratory services as well as a selection of products for all animal needs.

Products can be ordered online via their website.

Plaza Hotel, this silk shop offers a highquality selection of ready-made items. The most popular sellers include robes, linensilk blend shirts, ties and jackets.

Fashion Listings

ISALYNA ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 089 CLOTHING 089 LINGERIE 089 SHOPPING MALLS 090

SPORTSWEAR 090 TAILORS 090 OPTICIANS & GLASSES 090

ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR

THREE TREES

BOO SKATESHOP 84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3923 1147 This skateshop offers a variety of clothes, shoes and skateboarding equipment. Most of the T-shirts are made and designed in Vietnam, while the shoes and other equipment are made for export, often rejected due to minor defects. Staff is knowledgeable about Hanoi’s best skateboarding spots.

EURO FASHION SHOES 26, 84/16 Ngoc Khanh, Tel: 0904153041 While you may have to dig through piles of mismatched or orthopaedic-looking shoes, this shop is full of hidden gems in larger sizes, a rare find in Hanoi.

EURO SHOES 320 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem If you’re looking for a diamond in the rough, head for Euro shoes, which has a wide selection of options, many of which you’ll want to give a pass. Often carries larger sizes than most Vietnamese retailers.

HANDMADE SHOES 18 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 5357 This cobbler’s shop repairs shoes and makes shoes to order. The staff speaks limited English, so it’s best to bring along your favourite pair to get copied.

HUONG’S JEWELLERY SHOP 62 Hang Ngan, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 1046 A small store specialising in silver necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings and pendants. While Huong’s merchandise is mostly silver or pearl, the staff will also make jewellery to order.

IPA-NIMA

15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 8725 The jewellery on offer, designed by a Belgian expat, often features chunkier gold shapes with small, well-placed diamonds. Hidden in the back of the store there is also a display case featuring less-expensive costume jewelry.

TINA SPARKLE 17 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 7616 An eclectic assortment of costume jewelry and Chula dresses are scattered among a wide collection of bags by one of Vietnam’s most popular designers, Ipa-Nima. Check out the seasonal sales for heavy discounts.

VIETNAM OPTICAL 138B Giang Vo, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3736 5505 This all-purpose eyewear shop offers free eye exams and a wide selection of frames.

Usually there is at least one Englishspeaking staff present. The quick and easy service means you will be out of the store, lenses in hand, in an hour.

CLOTHING CALVIN KLEIN 19-21 Dinh Tien Hoang ; 61-63 Cau Go, Hoan Kiem If it’s all in a name then Calvin Klein’s lakeside store has got it pretty much sewn up. Underwear sits next to jeans going for around VND2.5 million and a range of quality CK shirts, belts and more. By Hanoi standards, prices are high, but think relative. VND5 million for an original, welltailored pigskin jacket is pretty good going.

COCO SILK 37A Van Mieu, Dong Da. Tel: 3747 1535 High-end silk clothing retailer located near the Temple of Literature carries contemporary looks based on traditional Vietnamese styles.

73 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3933 4000 Started by Hong Kong born designer Christina Yu, Ipa-Nima’s stores are filled with their one-of-a-kind purses and accessories.

Their use of colour, a unique design philosophy and hand done embellishments appeals to jetsetters and fashionistas from Los Angeles to Paris. Always eye-catching and trendy, Ipa-Nima accessories are tangibly timeless and sophisticated.

CONTRABAND

KINH MAT HA THANH

EOS FASHION AND DÉCOR

2 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3928 6556 Large selection of lenses as well as biomedic contact lenses imported from the US. But buyer beware, lenses in Vietnam usually aren’t scratch-resistant.

LONDON DIAMOND GALLERY 21 Nguyen Huy Tu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 4972 6327 www.londondiamondgallery.com Home to the world’s finest gemstones, master craftsmen and jewellery experts, London Diamond Gallery is among the most established jewellery houses in the world, with an international presence that spans across England, Japan, Hong Kong and South-East Asia.

LOUIS VUITTON Sofitel Metropole, 15 Ngo Quyen Tel: 3824 4977 This boutique offers an exclusive collection of the French designer handbags and accessories.

23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

45 Phan Dinh Phuong, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3629 78574 The limited stock in this clothing store is made up for by the unique design of the pieces, which are refreshed by the designer every month.

GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE 36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics.

Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a made-to-measure service are available at no extra cost.

HANOI SILK Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3716 3062 . www.hanoisilkvn.com Located on the ground floor of the Sofitel

1 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3762 4405 www.isalyna.com The retail outlet for local designer Teddie Tran, who believes that fashion is all about “attitude”. Accordingly, the store’s pieces are mostly basics that can be combined with a range of high-quality leather accessories and jewellery for a unique fashion statement.

KANA 41 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 6208 Reasonably priced handmade silk clothing and accessories in a wide range of patterns sized to fit western bodies.

KEN SHOP 108 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 6270 0256 A popular stop for silk lovers, this store is all about soft and light fabrics. Silk, cotton and silk cotton mixes in creamy summer colours or eclectic prints. Ken has a wide range on offer, from casual summer skirts to fancy dresses. A cute collection of toys made of cotton and imported jewellry and accessories are also for sale.

KENLY SILK 108 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 7236 www.kenlysilk.com Instantly recognizable with its two-pillared shop front, Kenly prides itself on professional guidance and high-quality materials from a design’s conception to finish. The shop caters to everything from fashion shows to personal designs.

KHAI SILK 133 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 4237 One of the better established silk shops in Hanoi, this store also has a satellite shop in the Sofitel Metropole. With outlets throughout the country, this household name is a great place to go for ready-made silk items. You may find better deals at other shops, but with the highest quality silk, at Khai you pay for what you get.

SONG 5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 6965 This boutique, whose name comes from the Vietnamese word for “life”, stocks high-end linen and silk clothes in a serene store awash with the fresh scent of mint. Located just across the street from the cathedral, prices are on par with its higher-end neighbours.

TAN MY 66 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 1579 www.tanmyembroidery.com.vn Located in the heart of the old quarter, on “silk street”, Tan My claims to be Hanoi’s oldest silk and embroidery shop and boasts customers like Hillary Clinton.

The three-storey shop offers everything from clothes and hand-embroidered baby pillows to sumptuous silk bedding.

TAN MY DESIGN 61 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 1154 800sqm of elegant, modern space that offers one-of-a-kind pieces to add to your home furnishings or wardrobe. Located across the street from the other Tan My, one of the oldest silk and embroidery stores in Hanoi.

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE 5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

VINATEX 25 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem In-town factory outlet for the Vinatex clothing corp. Carries items for men, women and children at low prices.

LINGERIE ANA MAI 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho This small boutique stocks lingerie similar to Parisian designers Agent Provocateur and Cosabella.

LUALA BOUTIQUE 61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 9899 www.luala.vn Close to the Opera House, this “concept store” dressed up as a spacious boutique and café is aimed at the luxury, lifestyle-focused end of the local market. Has clothing and accessories for men and women and stocks the likes of Vera Wang, Nina Ricci, Elie Saab, Paul & Joe and much more. Also slated to show contemporary Vietnamese art. Check out their website for latest arrivals and their full range of brands.

MARIE-LINH COUTURE 11 Nha To, Hoan Kiem; 74 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Parisian-style clothing combined with quality Vietnamese dressmaking skills.

The beautiful clothes are available in silk, organza and linen. Also available for online orders. With the accompanying home décor and accessories shop on 38 Hang Trong, it is possible to live an entire life of couture.

MOON 111 Ma May, Hoan Kiem This small shop carries handmade embroidered linen and silk clothes that are usually less expensive than those found at the larger stores. The shop owners make most of the clothes themselves, so they will adjust designs to fit personal tastes.

NAGU 20 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, www.zantoc.com Walk past the rows of teddy bears and head for the small rack of clothing, which offers unique Japanese-designed dresses and shirts. The second floor has a selection of home goods. There is a loyalty program for frequent customers.

SUPERMARKETS BIG C SUPERMARKET 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay

CITIMART HANOI TOWERS 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung

FIVIMART 210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem 10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh 671 Hoàng Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da 51 Xuân Dieu, Tay Ho 93 Lo Đuc, Hai Ba Trung Online shopping: www.fivimart.com.vn

HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET 36 Cat Linh, Dong Da

INTIMEX 22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem 131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da 17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung 27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da

METRO 126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang Mai Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem

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AUBADE

ZONE GOLF

52 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh . Tel: 3822 9051 Pretty, lacy underwear imported from France. Carries mostly small sizes, up to a western sized medium.

Hanoi Towers, 49 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3936 3233 This centrally-located shop carries all the equipment and gear you need for a day at the course.

MINOSHE 59 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem This popular store carries a wide range of bras and underwear. Additional locations in Hanoi Towers and Vincom Towers.

TAILORS CAO MINH TAILORS

49 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem The retail space on the first floor of this complex includes everything from a golf shop to a hair salon. After shopping you can enjoy a cup of coffee at the Highlands Café or a sandwich at Papa Joe’s.

250 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3939 3594 www.caominh.com Located near Cua Nam street at the western-most end of Hang Bong, this established tailor with over 50 years of experience specialises in quality materials from Italy and England. The go-to place for top-of-the-range suits and shirts for all occasions. The shop is new and the service spot on.

OCEAN PARK LUXURY MALL

CO

SHOPPING MALLS HANOI TOWERS

36 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3936 0737 Shopping mall includes international designers such as Versace collection, Dolce and Gabbana, and Roberto Botticelli.

PARKSON Cnr. Thai Ha & Tay Son, Dong Da www.parkson.com This Malaysian-owned department store prides itself on making the shopping experience one that is “more exciting and fun”. Unlike many of Hanoi’s retailers, this megastore is also appealing to those who just want to browse. Departments include men’s, women’s and children’s clothing as well as home furnishings.

TRANG TIEN PLAZA 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem This large shopping centre located at the southern tip of Hoan Kiem Lake includes shopping options for every price range.

Bargain bins full of locally-produced clothing stand beside a Nike retail outlet. Offerings also include a cosmetics department and multiple electronics retailers.

VINCOM TOWERS 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3974 9999 A shopping plaza offering a range of international brands such as Levi’s, United Colours of Benetton, Nike, Adidas and Geox.

SPORTSWEAR ADIDAS 83 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 7190 www.adidas.com The capital city’s flagship store of the international retailer of sport clothing and equipment.

B.BALL 65A Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da, Tel: 3224 10780 bball.com.vn This hoops-themed store sells balls, basketball shoes and jerseys of the madein-China variety.

HANOI CLUB GOLF SHOP 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com A small shop on the first floor of the Hanoi Club sells a range of equipment to fulfill your golfing needs, including clubs, balls and clothes.

NIKE Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem; Vincom Towers, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung www.nike.com With multiple locations open, and more to come, Nike retails high-end sports clothing and accessories, including yoga mats and water bottles.

TOLIA Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Also known as the “Russian shop”, Tolia retails overstock outdoor wear made for export. Brands include Jack Wolfskin, The North Face and Patagonia.

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BAKERIES DONKEY BAKERY

18 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 9925 Though this tailor offers both men’s and women’s clothing, the well made dresses displayed in the window and the range of bright colours and patterns caters mostly to female tastes. Located in the shadow of the cathedral, it’s a little pricier, but you pay for the view.

8 Nguyen Hoang Ton, Tay Ho www.donkey-donuts.com Founded as a donut shop, it now also offers a wide range of German-inspired breads for those who favour nutrition over sugar. A loaf of rye bread rings in at VND40,000. Donuts, breads, cookies and sandwiches can be ordered online and delivered to your home or office. The bakery employs mostly disabled persons and is dedicated to providing them with high-quality training and care.

NGOC SHOP

KINH DO

64 Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 4747 This English-speaking tailor located near the fabric market off Pho Hue offers a seasonal collection of ready-made designs.

The owner will also copy clothing or sew from your own designs. Fabric can be picked out in the shop or you can bring your own.

MS TAM Tel: 0989 098903 With a long list of foreign clientele, Ms Tam works from her home not too far outside of central Hanoi. She will pay a visit to where you live to take measurements and then bring the final clothes back a few days later. She also carries a book of fabric swatches for those who truly want to skip the shopping experience.

THANH HA 114 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Located in the heart of the old quarter, this tailor caters mostly to tourists, but a large collection of Vogue pattern books makes communication very easy.

OPTICIANS & GLASSES SUNGLASSES STREET Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem If it’s all in a name, well here its all in a number - two of them in fact, 51 & 58. Not exactly conventional opticians - the rows of shops here do sell frames with lenses and have basic eye-testing services - but if its sunglasses with brand names superglued on top, here is the place.

THU HA KINH THUOC 134 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 4570 Free eye testing in this well-known, German-trained opticians that also doubles up as a medical clinic and pharmacy specialising in eye problems. Sells a range of branded and non-branded spectacles and sunglasses. Located opposite the National Hospital of Ophthalmology.

VIETNAMOPTICAL 48 Hai Ba Trung, Hai Ba Trung & 231 Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan Tel: 3736 5505 www.kinhmatvietnam.com.vn Chain of opticians, glasses and sunglasses stores selling a range of branded and Chinese-imported frames starting at VND100,000 a go and rising to over VND2 million. The in-store optometrist gives free eye tests. Helpful, English-speaking staff.

kitchenware and accessories easy. While its stock may not differ from the stores next door, the display is less overwhelming.

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem One of the oldest and most well-established bakeries in the city, maybe best known as Catherine Deneuve’s former haunt, Kinh Do has been around much longer than any expat. But their breads, pastries and quiches keep foreigners and Vietnamese coming back. Extensive Western and Vietnamese menu as well.

LE CROISSANT 21 Ha Hoi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3943 6707 www.hoasuaschool.com A well established and well respected Hanoi institution. Le Croissant not only makes excellent baked goods of all kinds, but is also part of the NGO Hoa Sua, a school for disadvantaged children that teaches them life changing skills.

PARIS DELI 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 6697 With two locations, one by the Opera House and the other by St. Joseph’s Cathedral, the Paris Deli makes a good job of their breads, tarts and pastries. Both are sit-down restaurants, but are happy to sell you their baked goods over the counter, to go.

THU HUONG BAKERY 35C Phan Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh Tel: 3734 3868 A small but popular Vietnamese-style bakery selling all types of sweets and cakes, luxuriously decorated. They also sell baguettes and sliced breads. They also deliver.

CRAFTS CRAFTLINK 43 Van Mieu, Dong Da Tel: 3843 7710 www.craftlink.com.vn This non-profit organisation helps traditional artisans seek new markets. for sale in the retail space include handmade textiles from the northern provinces.

INDIGENOUS 36 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0977 799911 A crafts and home furnishings shop stocked by the Hold The Future organisation, which helps disabled and underprivileged children in Hanoi and northern provinces.

LA CASA

GROCERIES 091 LIQUOR & WINE 091 MARKETS 091

MARIE LINH HOME DECOR 38 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0436 www.marie-linh-design.com This newly-opened shop sells specially designed decorative objects in traditional Vietnamese lacquer and pottery in unique styles. It also retails small accessories that are easy to pack in your suitcase. Items are sold in the shop and online.

VIETNAM QUILTS 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 4831 Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

FURNITURE BAMBOO FURNITURE CORNER Cnr. Quang Trung & Tran Nhan Trong, Hai Ba Trung This cluster of furniture shops offer lowpriced bamboo products from baskets and desks to drawers.

BELLIZENO 130D Thuy Khue, Ba Dinh Tel: 3825 1343 The factory location of the Bellizeno bedding company includes a retail space for their high thread count sheets and bedding.

CARPET STREET There are a number of made-to-order carpet and rug stores along Kim Ma from roughly number 239 to 299.

CHI VANG 63 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 0601 Located near the lake, this store offers a wide range of embroidered bedding and tablecloths. Items can be purchased in the store or hand-embroidered to order.

COTYLEDON 1A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 7887 This shop stocks high-end duvet and cushion covers, quilts and tableware like runners and placemats.

EUROPEAN IKEA SHOP 35 Ngo Thanh Mie, Dong Da This tiny shop carries a small collection of IKEA brand furniture, but can order more from the catalogue.

GRAND BOIS Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem This high-end wooden furniture store located on the first floor of Hanoi Towers has offered best-selling designs for a decade. The classic pieces are mostly constructed out of dark wood and are complemented with cream-coloured linen lampshades and cushions.

HANOI MOMENT 101 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 7170 This shop makes sifting through lacquer

such as foie gras, high-quality meats, pastas and dairy products. Although they specialise in the wholesale market, they occasionally do retail sales.

Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 4084 2 Bao Khanh lane, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 9616 www.lacasavietnam.com.vn A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other household objects, this spot has everything from beds and bookshelves, to tableware and silverware.

The items are all locally made by skilled artisans from Hanoi and the surrounding regions.

HUNG LONG MINIMART

MAI LONG

62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 6258 3510 www.puntoitalia.asia Punto Italia is an authentic Italian supplier importing the finest espresso coffee as well as Italian coffee machines for professional, home and office use. Real Italian granita, ice-cream and much more is now available in Vietnam with the support of a professional and friendly service.

71 Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3822 5393 This shop sells material for curtains and window blinds. They make house calls to measure and install.

MAROON 156 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 7264 Nestled in the heart of the old quarter, Maroon sells accent pieces to brighten up any household: lacquer picture frames, lamps, and silk bedding.

MOSAIQUE 6 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 6181 This home furnishings shop specialises in unusual lamps and hand-embroidered pillow covers, but also carries other colorful bric-a-brac and clothing. Free delivery of all purchases.

UMA CT 6 My Dinh, Tu Liem; 147 Doi Can, Ba Dinh; 210 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3972 7412 www.uma.vn Designers and retailers within the interior industry, each branch sells trendy furniture for modern living as well as interior design for all types Vietnamese houses.

VELVET UNDERGROUND Tel: 3716 0400 www.velvetunderground.biz This shop offers a range of ready made items, from bedding to hot water bottle covers as well as the option of designing your own item from a choice of fabrics.

The friendly and helpful English-speaking staff make shopping a pleasure instead of a chore.

GROCERIES AU DELICE 3 The Giao, Ha Ba Trung Tel: 3972 0584 www.au-delice-online.com A European style deli and grocery store with all sorts of imported products for your dinner parties or a homesick night in. Their claim is to have the best selection of cheeses in Hanoi.

BETTERDAY 114 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 6258 3511 Specialising in organic and fair trade coffee, tea and cashews, this shop also offers an array of products for mindful living. Find perfumes and candles by Dame Clemence, as well as eco-friendly laundry detergent, all natural jams, and virgin coconut oil in this boutique food shop.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS 19/298 Ngoc Lam, Gia Lam Tel: 3873 6079 www.classicfinefoods.com The place to go for imported foods

71B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 6220 This little store around Westlake has the feeling of one of those small ethnic markets you find in London or New York, but the ethnicity is Western. Reasonably priced canned foods, potato chips, cookies and other snacks that may be difficult to find elsewhere in the city.

PUNTO ITALIA

VINE CELLAR DOOR 7 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 2922 With a huge wine cellar, a tasting bar, a new array of gourmet foods and a deli case with imported meats, cheeses and olives, Vine Cellar Door Wine & Gourmet Market is a good spot to find the perfect bottle and the foods that go well with it. Also offers glassware, wine & cigar accessories, espresso, gourmet tea and a small café menu from the kitchen of Vine Restaurant.

PANE E VINO WINE SHOP 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 9080 This Italian favourite with a huge food menu also has a huge for-retail wine list that is 100 percent focused on fine wines and liquors from Italy. Owner Hoang has great knowledge of Italian wine and a passion to match, which is sure to land you with the best wine for any occasion.

RED APRON 18 Yen The Tel: 3747 4889 15a Ngo Van So Tel: 3943 7226 28 Xuan Dieu Tel: 3719 8337 #6, Lane 1, Au Co Tel: 3718 6271 Hanoi Club, 76 Yen Phu Tel: 3823 8749 The retail face of wine distributor Celliers d’Asia, this small wine shop is in the French Quarter, adjacent to the Metropole. The focus here is on quality and the portfolio ranges from French to Chilean to the barrage of wines coming from Down Under. Delivery service available.

LIQUOR & WINE BACCHUS CORNER 1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3935 1393 Part of the Tan Khoa chain, the largest liquor and wine distributor in the country, the walls here are lined with a decent selection of wines, pleasantly arrayed and back lit. Besides their selection of new and old world wines Helpful staff and free delivery.

DA LOC 96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem; 94 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 1325 This wine importer and distributor has over 250 different types of wine in its portfolio and is doing its part to bring a culture of fine wine to Hanoi. The main office and showroom is on Hai Ba Trung and an upscale outlet is located within the grounds of the Mercure Hanoi hotel on Ly Thoung Kiet.

HANOI GOURMET 1B Ham Long, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3943 1009 Not just a wine shop, the long-running Hanoi Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and artisan breads.

After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a look at the deli and sit down for a light snack.

CAMERAS A DONG PHOTO CO 128 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 0732

This camera shop retails a wide range of cameras, including both analogue and DSLR models, as well as film and accessories like flashes and lenses.

ALPHA LAPTOP 95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4418

This laptop retail and repair shop also carries camera accessories and cases.

FUONG MAY ANH 5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3213 1568

This small store has a wide selection of Viet Nam-produced Pentax cameras. Also has a selection of imported lenses.

NGUYEN CAU 1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem

This camera shop overlooking the lake develops both digital and film prints.

Services include photo mounting and passport photos.

VINE CELLAR DOOR

VU NHAT CAMERA

7 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 2922 With a huge wine cellar, a tasting bar, a new array of gourmet foods and a deli case with imported meats, cheeses and olives, Vine Cellar Door Wine & Gourmet Market is a good spot to find the perfect bottle and the foods that go well with it. Also offers glassware, wine & cigar accessories, espresso, gourmet tea and a small café menu from the kitchen of Vine Restaurant.

20 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 5161

This family-owned business, which has been selling cameras for two generations, offers a wide range of lenses and camera bodies.

COMPUTERS AND ELECTRONICS DK COMPUTER 29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4772

This large electronics retailer deals in computers, printers, as well as external storage devices.

HA KHANH MOBILE

THE OASIS 24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1196 A great place to get all kinds of imported groceries and home-made foods. All of the breads and pastas are made in the in-house kitchen. A great variety of fresh sauces, a limited, but well-chosen selection of wines and a fantastic deli and cheese case. Free delivery.

ELECTRONICS

MARKETS CHO HOM Corner of Pho Hue and Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung One of the best places in the city to buy fabrics. Found a tailor, want to make clothes? Here you’ll find everything you need, stuff imported and domestic, silk, cotton, linen. Also any sewing materials you might need can be found here.

CHO SINH VIEN Xuan Thuy and Pham Hung, Cau Giay The Student Market, across from Hanoi National University, caters to students.

Mostly durable goods, clothing and accessories here. As far as style and size of clothes, selection is a bit limited, but if you take your time you may find something worth the trouble.

The market, as well as the food stalls surrounding it, are open quite late.

Prices are also tailored for the student budget.

DONG XUAN Dong Xuan, Hoan Kiem The biggest market of it’s kind in Hanoi, Dong Xuan is filled with pretty much any durable good you can think of: from jeans to jewelry, from leaf tea to livestock. The indoor market spills out onto the streets, which can also serve a good place to get a meal pretty much any time.

FLOWER MARKET Au Co, East Side of Street The name can be a little deceptive, since it’s more of a distribution point, where flowers come in to vendors all over the city. Of course you can buy directly from sellers here at a good price, provided you’re up late enough. The other reason to come is for the pho stands. The market begins late at night and continues well past dawn.

1/24 Dao Tan, Ba Dinh

Mobile phone retail and repair shop offering discount prices on a wide range of phones.

HANOI AUDIO 11B Hai Ba Trung, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3826 0308

Located centrally, near the Hanoi Opera house, this electronics store retails high-end audio equipment.

HI-TECH USA 23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 6261

A small, but good all-around electronics store, selling all kinds of electronics.

Speakers, I-Pods, headphones, cables and phone accessories. Many name-brands.

PICO PLAZA 35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

This is a super-sized electronics shop with each floor devoted to a specific kind of electronics. You’ll be able to find pretty much anything you’re looking for here, from a phone to a computer to a washing machine.

PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER CARE AND IT SERVICES 28B Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0983 011081

This service company can help with a just about any computer-related task. Computer repairs, set up, Wi-Fi, design, networking and development. On-site and off-site service, and free quotes.

VIETSAD 34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3747 8771

Located on bustling “computer street”, this shop offers a range of computer accessories including keyboards and USB drives. They also do computer and laptop repair.

VU LUONG TV 39Z Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3824 7736

One of the many electronics stores along Hai Ba Trung, selling all types of computer accessories, televisions, modems and monitors.

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tiêng viêt

Thaânh phöë Höì Chñ Minh àûúåc biïët àïën nhû möåt thaânh phöë khöng bao giúâ nguã,coá thïí chiïìu loâng bêët cûá ai àang muöën taåm thúâi caách xa thuã àö, àùåc biïåt laâ àïí ài tòm möåt cuöåc söëng söi àöång vïì khuya hay nhûäng moán ùn ngon.

VIÏËT BÚÃI NICK ROSS

KHI NOÁI CHUYÏÅN VÚÁI NGÛÚÂI HAÂ NÖÅI, baån seä thêëy nhiïìu ngûúâi coá thaái àöå khöng mêëy coi troång thaânh phöë phña nam vaâ treã tuöíi hún naây. Vaâ coá leä hoå coá lyá do chñnh àaáng.

Noái vïì nhûäng thuá vui nghïå thuêåt hay nhûäng thûá àïí nhòn ngùæm thò Saâi Goân khöng thïí saánh gêìn vúái Haâ Nöåi. Tuy nhiïn khi noái àïën nhûäng núi vui chúi vaâo buöíi töëi, nhûäng moán ùn Viïåt Nam vaâ quöëc tïë chêët lûúång, thò möåt chuyïën ài chúi Saâi Goân vaâo cuöëi tuêìn coá thïí cho baån möåt caãm giaác thay àöíi thuá võ, möåt nöët nhaåc chñnh trïn nïìn êm thanh höîn loaån cuãa Haâ Nöåi.

Caãnh Quan Xen Giûäa Êm Thanh

PHIA NAM

92 | The Word December 2011

PHOTOS BY GALEN STOLEE

THU PHU

Ðûâng hiïíu nhêìm yá töi. Khi chuáng ta noái vïì mûác àöå ö nhiïîm êm thanh thò Haâ Nöåi nùçm úã võ trñ khaá cao. Nhûng Thaânh phöë Höì Chñ Minh coá veã nhû coân vûúåt lïn trïn caã thuã àö thên yïu cuãa chuáng ta túái möåt vaâi àexiben, nhêët laâ vaâo nhûäng luác giúâ cao àiïím. Vò thïë, àïí chaåy xa noá, baån haäy túái Saigon Skydeck úã Thaáp Taâi Chñnh Bitexco.Tûâ trïn àöå cao hún 50 têìng cuãa toâa thaáp cao nhêët Viïåt Nam naây, baån coá caãm giaác Saâi Goân nhû möåt thaânh phöë thêåt yïn bònh, nhûng caãm giaác àoá chó töìn taåi cho àïën khi baån xuöëng àïën têìng trïåt.

Saigon South (Phuá Myä Hûng) laâ möåt sûå lûåa choån khaác àïí thoaát khoãi sûå huyïn naáo. Ðêy laâ khu tûúng tûå vúái Myä Ðònh úã Haâ Nöåi vaâ möåt khi baån ra khoãi nhûäng con àûúâng cuãa Quêån 4 àïí túái vuâng ngoaåi ö röång lúán úã Quêån 7, buåi vaâ chuöîi êm thanh khöng ngúát cuãa thaânh phöë böîng biïën mêët, khöng khñ trúã nïn trong laânh vaâ nhûäng toâa nhaâ cao têìng moåc lïn. Sûå phaát triïín úã àêy àûúåc quy hoaåch kyä lûúäng, vúái rêët nhiïìu cöng viïn vaâ khuön viïn xanh, nhûäng àûúâng cao töëc vaâ àûúâng böå àûúåc cêëu truác cêín thêån vaâ àiïím xuyïët trïn caái vûúng miïån quy hoaåch àö thõ àoá laâ Höì Baán Nguyïåt (The Crescent). Nùçm úã möåt bïn höì trong khung caãnh ngêåp traân cêy xanh, khu vûåc naây chûa àûúåc hoaân thiïån nhûng àaä coá

àuã nhûäng con àûúâng rúåp laá, quaán cafeá, nhaâ haâng, nhûäng àiïím mua sùæm vaâ nhûäng quaán bar coá thïí trúã thaânh möåt lûåa choån thuá võ nïëu baån muöën coá möåt buöíi chiïìu thû giaän ngoaâi thaânh phöë, nhêët laâ vaâo luác hoaâng hön khi caái noáng àaä haå nhiïåt vaâ bùæt àêìu xuêët hiïån nhûäng ngûúâi ài têåp thïí duåc.

Trúã laåi trong thaânh phöë, cöng viïn xung quanh àûúâng Lï Duêín vúái nhûäng cêy cao vuát àûúåc tröìng búãi ngûúâi Phaáp mang laåi möåt chuát thû giaän. Nùçm kïë bïn Dinh Ðöåc Lêåp vaâ Nhaâ Thúâ Ðûác Baâ, khu naây trúã nïn möåt núi lyá tûúãng àïí tòm hiïíu vïì lõch sûã. Vaâ möåt bïn cuãa con àûúâng Haân Thuyïn laâ Au Parc, möåt quaán cafeá kiïíu Ðõa Trung Haãi múã búãi möåt ngûúâi Phaáp, phuåc vuå nhûäng moán ùn àêìy saáng taåo vaâ chêët lûúång maâ nhûäng thaânh phöë miïìn Bùæc chó coá thïí nùçm mú múái thêëy.

Haäy thûã moán salad khöíng löìvaâ nhûäng moán wraps (kiïíu cuöën bùçng caác loaåi baánh traáng). Ðöëi diïån quaán laâ Diamond Plaza, trung têm thûúng maåi vúái àêìy àuã nhûäng khu ùn uöëng, phim aãnh vaâ troâ chúi, game.

Hai quaán bar vaâ nhaâ haâng phña trïn phuåc vuå àöì uöëng vaâ moán ùn rêët ngon, vaâ têìm nhòn coân àeåp hún nûäa. Dêîn àêìu hoùåc ñt nhêët cuäng laâ trong nhoám caác quaán haång trung bònh túái sang troång vúái nhûäng àöì ùn àûúng àaåi cuãa Chêu Êu laâ Shri. Nùçm úã têìng 23 Thaáp Centec, ngay phña sau cuãa Diamond Plaza trïn àûúâng Nguyïîn Thõ Minh Khai, baån coá thïí choån möåt chöî ngöìi úã sên ngoaâi trúâi àïí têån hûúãng bêìu khöng khñ maát meã vaâo buöíi töëi vaâ múã röång têìm nhòn ngùæm thaânh phöë úã dûúái.

Nhûng àïí traãi nghiïåm möåt quaán bar vúái têìm nhòn tuyïåt vúâi thò chuáng töi nghô ngay túái möåt quaán bar "trïn trúâi" trang trñ theo kiïën truác kiïíu höåp àeân, bar Chill múái múã thûåc sûå tuyïåt àeåp. Giaá àöì uöëng úã àêy thuöåc loaåi àùæt vaâ thûåc sûå laâ baån àang traã phñ cho võ trñ cuãa bar, nhûng baån chùæc chùæn seä êën tûúång vúái noá.

Nùçm caånh khaách saån New World trïn têìng 26 vaâ 27 cuãa toâa nhaâ AB, Chill taåo cho baån

The Word December 2011 | 93

coá caãm giaác mònh àùåc biïåt quan troång. Quêìn sooác vaâ deáp lï khöng àûúåc chêëp nhêån khi vaâo àêy.

MÓN ĂN ĐƯỜNG PHỐ

Ðöì Ùn

94 | The Word December 2011

Phillip Turo và Món Ngan Khổng Lồ

PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

Khöng coá gò saánh bùçng caác quaán ùn vóa heâ úã Haâ Nöåi. Xin löîi Saâi Goân nheá, nhûng caác baån coân xa múái bùçng àûúåc. Nhûng xeát vïì nhaâ haâng thò Saâi Goân laåi vûúåt tröåi. Möåt cú söë nhûäng khu vûåc trong thaânh phöë xûáng àaáng àïí baån tòm àïën nïëu baån àang tòm möåt núi mang laåi cho baån nhiïìu sûå lûåa choån.

Trïn àûúâng Maåc Thõ Bûúãi reä vaâo heãm 71, baån coá thïí tòm thêëy bêët cûá thûá gò, tûâ quaán ùn Li-Bùng cho àïën ÊËn Ðöå, têët caã goái goån trong con heãm chêåt heåp naây. Gêìn àoá, reä khoãi àûúâng Hai Baâ Trûng saát caånh Park Hyatt laâ khu êím thûåc The Courtyard, cuäng àûúåc biïët àïën laâ heãm 74. Múã trïn möåt khuön viïn vuöng vùæn vúái kiïën truác thúâi Phaáp trûúác àêy tûâng laâ núi tinh chïë thuöëc phiïån, úã àêy baån tòm thêëy ghïë ngöìi úã sên ngoaâi trúâi vúái nhiïìu nhaâ haâng vaâ caác quaán bar. Quaán rûúåu vaâ àöì nûúáng Jaspa coá thïí laâ möåt lûåa choån trûúác khi baån bõ cuöën sang quaán Vino úã bïn caånh, möåt núi chuyïn baán rûúåu vang vaâ coá khoaãng khöng gian trïn sên thûúång àïí baån thûúãng thûác rûúåu vaâ moán tapas ngon tuyïåt.

Tiïëp theo laâ quaán ùn nheå theo kiïíu Phaáp, Refinery, möåt trong nhûäng quaán ùn àûúåc ûa chuöång nhêët trong thaânh phöë, trûúác khi baån ài ngang qua tuå àiïím tiïåc tuâng Vascos, núi baån coá thïí tòm thêëy moán pizza haão haång, quaán bar vaâ khu vûåc vúái nhûäng chöî ngöìi thoaãi maái úã têìng trïn. Lûåa choån cuöëi cuâng laâ quaán Hoa Tuác vúái kiïíu trang trñ coá thêím myä theo phong caách thúâi kyâ Ðöng Dûúng, chùæc chùæn laâ möåt trong nhûäng quaán ùn Viïåt Nam tuyïåt vúâi nhêët úã thaânh phöë naây.

Quay trúã laåi truåc phöë chñnh vaâ ài xuöëng döëc, reä sang phöë Nguyïîn Siïu. ÚÃ àêy baån seä tòm thêëy quaán thõt nûúáng Achentina El Gaucho, núi phuåc vuå nhûäng moán thõt ngon nhêët úã àêy. Trúã laåi goác phöë Hai Baâ Trûng, baån seä tòm thêëy quaán bar phuåc vuå àöì ùn vaâ rûúåu vang Têy Ban Nha Pacharan. Quaán phuåc vuå nhaåc söëng vaâ DJ chúi nhaåc ngoaâi sên vaâo thûá Tû vaâ thûá Nùm haâng tuêìn. Ði tiïëp xuöëng möåt vaâi söë nhaâ nûäa, baån seä thêëy möåt quaán vúái caái tïn laå luâng Blanchys Tash (taåm dõch: Rêu cuãa Blanchy).Quaán naây nùçm trong möåt toâa nhaâ ba têìng vúái têìng möåt laâ quaán bar, möåt bar nûäa nùçm ngoaâi sên úã têìng trïn. Ðêy hiïån taåi laâ möåt trong nhûäng bar àûúåc ûa chuöång nhêët, nïëu khöng phaãi laâ möåt trong nhûäng bar khaá àùæt úã àêy. Bùæt àêìu tûâ thaáng Möåt, hoå seä phuåc vuå àöì ùn lai giûäa Nam Myä vaâ Nhêåt nêëu búãi möåt àêìu bïëp àaä laâm úã quaán Nobu úã London trong saáu nùm.

Quaán naây xûáng àaáng àïí baån gheá thùm. Ði vïì phña söng Saâi Goân vaâ reä phaãi vaâo àûúâng Ðöng Du. ÚÃ àêy baån seä tòm thêëy möåt chuöîi nhûäng nhaâ haâng thuá võ vaâ àïìn Jamia Al Muslimin úã trung têm thaânh phöë, àêy laâ

àõa àiïím kyâ laå nhêët àïí ùn uöëng maâ baån coá thïí tòm thêëy trong khu naây.

Phuåc vuå moán ùn kïët húåp giûäa Malaixia vaâ ÊËn Ðöå, quaán ùn rêët bònh dên vaâ thên thiïån naây laâ núi baån phaãi àïën àïí ùn moán röti vaâ caâ-ri, nhûng töët nhêët laâ baån nïn àïën vaâo buöíi trûa. Cuäng trïn àûúâng Ðöng Du laâ quaán ZanZBar tröng xuöìng xaä nhûng laåi phuåc vuå nhûäng àöì ùn thûåc sûå rêët ngon vúái giaá tûâ trung bònh àïën cao trong möåt khung caãnh möåt quaán bar. Caác suêët ùn àûúåc àûa ra rêët àêìy àùån. Thïm vaâo bêìu khöng khñ êím thûåc àa daång úã àêy laâ ba nhaâ haâng Halal, bao göìm Dragon Noodle vúái àöì ùn Nhêåt tuyïåt haão, möåt quaán Malai-ÊËn Ðöå khaác laâ The Bombay, vaâ nhaâ haâng kiïm quaán bar Zero sùæp múã cûãa. Ngoaâi ra coân coá quaán Ciao Bella, quaán YÁ vúái phong caách New York àûúåc múã búãi àêìu bïëp nöíi tiïëng Tony Fox. Vaâ àöëi vúái nhûäng ai àang nhúá àêìu bïëp Bobby Chinn tûâ khi anh chuyïín vaâo Saâi Goân, àõa àiïím êím thûåc múái múã cuãa anh laâ nhaâ haâng Kumho Link (goác àûúâng Lï Duêín vaâ Ðöng Du, ngay phña trïn cuãa Hard Rock Cafeá. Quaán naây coá khöng gian boáng bêíy, quyïën ruä nhûng chuáng ta seä chúâ xem anh coá laâm siïu loâng àûúåc khaách haâng miïìn Nam nhû anh àaä tûâng laâm úã Haâ Nöåi khöng.

Nhaâ haâng Ðûác Brotzeit àaä chuyïín sang cuâng möåt toâa nhaâ vúái quaán ùn Thaái pha tröån hûúng võ khaác Koh Thai vaâ nùçm doåc quaán Singapore Lion City, Cofee Bean and Tea Leaf, vaâ möåt nhaâ haâng lêíu nûäa.

Giaãi Trñ vïì Khuya Ðöëi vúái nhûäng ai muöën uöëng beer vaâ ùn àöì ùn möåt caách ñt töën keám, khu vûåc thñch húåp

nhêët laâ khu Phaåm Nguä Laäo, Buâi Viïån vaâ Ðïì Thaám, cuäng àûúåc biïët àïën vúái caái tïn Khu phöë Têy (The Pham). Nghe coá veã húi buöìn nhûng baån cuäng phaãi cêín thêån vúái tuái, vñ, vaâ àiïån thoaåi cuãa mònh nheá vò coá khaá nhiïìu vuå tröåm cûúáp diïîn ra úã àêy, nhûng caã möåt buöíi töëi úã àêy seä khöng khiïën baån hïët saåch tiïìn trûâ khi baån bõ tröåm mêët vñ. Caác quaán úã àêy cuäng múã cûãa àïën khuya. Ðõa àiïím àïí ài bar nöíi bêåt coá leä laâ The Spotted Cow (111 Buâi Viïån, Q1), Lam Cafeá vaâ quaán Hello Saigon (175 Buâi Viïån, Q1), nhaâ haâng ÊËn Ðöå Babas Kitchen (164 Buâi Viïån, Q1), Zoom Cafeá (169A Ðïì Thaám, Q1) vúái phong caách Myä, vaâ quaán nhaåc söëng vúái phong caách Viïåt Nam (175/22 Phaåm Nguä Laäo, Q1), vaâ möåt trong nhûäng nhaâ haâng nöíi tiïëng nhêët trong khu vûåc, quaán Margherita tuyïåt vúâi (175/1 Phaåm Nguä Laäo). Quaán sandwich Subway àêìu tiïn cuãa Viïåt Nam toåa laåc úã söë 171 Phaåm Nguä Laäo.

Tuy nhiïn khu vûåc quaán bar töët nhêët thaânh phöë nùçm úã phña sau cuãa Chúå Bïën Thaânh vaâ nùçm trïn böën con phöë Tön Thêët Thiïåp, Pasteur, Höì Tuâng Mêåu vaâ Tön Thêët Ðaåm. Nhûäng khaách haâng nûä coá thïí caãm thêëy húi bêët an úã nhûäng quaán nhû M52, Secrets, Voodoo vaâ Moon Bar vò nhûäng ngûúâi phuåc vuå nûä sexy úã àêy, möåt phiïn baãn cuãa bar Relax ngaây trûúác úã Haâ Nöåi. Nhûng cuäng coá nhûäng quaán bar laânh maånh úã àêy nhû quaán Phattys, The Drunken Duck, quaán rûúåu vang Qing, quaán ùn tuyïåt vúâi Elbow Room, quaán Mogambos theo phong caách Myä, Number Five vaâ àïí hoaân thiïån buöíi töëi laâ möåt trong nhûäng nhaâ haâng hiïån àaåi ngon nhêët trong thaânh phöë, Flow Saigon (88 Höì Tuâng Mêåu, Q1).

NHIÏÌU THÏË KYÃ TRÛÚÁC, VAÂO NÙM 1987, coá möåt khu àêët röång, hoang vùæng, khöng coá gò úã trïn àoá caã, ngoaâi coã. Truyïìn thuyïët kïí rùçng úã àoá chó coá vêåy maâ thöi.

Nhûng moåi thûá àaä thay àöíi, theo hûúáng rêët khaác biïåt.

Möåt buöíi chiïìu vaâo möåt trong böën muâa cuãa nùm maâ ngûúâi dên úã àêy àaä quyïët àõnh chia möåt nùm ra nhû thïë, coá möåt êm thanh laå xuêët hiïån trïn mùåt àêët, luác àêìu rêët nhoã, nhûng to dêìn lïn cho túái khi trúã thaânh möåt êm thanh vang döåi phaá vúä bêìu khöng khñ. Con ngûúâi chaåy nhaáo nhaác, vö voång, àêm caã vaâo nhau khi vêåt huyïìn bñ àoá xuêët hiïån, kïu rñt vaâ lùæp bùæp nhû nhûäng con gaâ maái.

Mùåt àêët rung chuyïín nhû möåt miïëng thaåch hoãng. Cêy cöëi vaâ nhaâ cûãa àöí nhaâo vaâ cuöëi cuâng laâ möåt tiïëng theát inh tai, khöng gian ngêåp coã àoá nöí tung ra. Ðaá soãi, buân, cöëng raänh vaâ nham thaåch phun traâo tûâ caái löî höíng àoá vaâ taåo nïn möåt cún mûa àêët àaá xuöëng àêìu nhûäng ngûúâi dên àang khiïëp súå. Sau àoá, möåt hònh daång nhaåt nhoâa dêìn dêìn hiïån nguyïn hònh khöëi, vaâ xuêët hiïån tûâ mùåt àêët laâ möåt con ngan khöíng löì.

Miïång haá höëc, con ngûúâi nhòn chùçm chùçm vaâo con vêåt to lúán àoá. Con ngan nhòn chùçm chùçm laåi, caái mùæt àen laáy cuãa noá to bùçng caã möåt caái baánh xe. Noá chúáp mùæt. Con ngûúâi thò khöng. Con ngan àêíy caái moã cuãa noá xuöëng möåt caái caánh coá àêìu

mêìu trùæng vaâ duåi duåi xuöëng àêët. Ðïí laâm gò thïë? Con ngûúâi khöng biïët àûúåc. Hoå gaäi àêìu gaäi tai.

"Súå quaá!" möåt ngûúâi phuå nûä noái.

"Ngon lùæm," möåt ngûúâi àaân öng lúán tuöíi àaáp laåi.

Con ngan lùæc lùæc àêìu vaâ múã röång caái moã. Noá kïu lïn, möåt êm thanh kinh khuãng. Tûúãng tûúång möåt nhaâ kho toaân nhûäng Pavarotti, têët caã hoå àïìu ngêåm vaâo nhûäng quaã boáng bay khñ heli, vaâ bêy giúâ tûúãng tûúång khoaãnh khùæc möîi ngûúâi trong söë hoå böîng dûng nhaãy muáa úã phña sau vúái möåt caái àe: àuáng laâ nhû thïë àêëy.

Tiïëng cuåc cuåc lùæng xuöëng vaâ con ngûúâi boã tay ra khoãi tai hoå. Nhûng àuáng luác àoá, möåt tiïëng theát xuêët hiïån tûâ phña sau hoå.

Con ngûúâi quay laåi nhòn möåt phuå nûä treã tïn laâ Höìng têët taã chaåy túái chöî hoå, miïång haá ra, tay cêìm möåt caái gûúm àïí laåi cuãa öng nöåi cö. Höìng chaåy xuyïn qua àaám àöng vaâ dûâng laåi trûúác con ngan khöíng löì, theát lïn möåt tiïëng nûäa vaâ àêm cheám aác liïåt vaâo khöng trung trûúác mùåt con vêåt.

Con ngan khöng di chuyïín.

Höìng àuát kiïëm vaâo voã vaâ löi ra möåt caái cung. Tûâ caái bao àûång tïn trïn lûng, cö choån ra möåt miïëng mùng non, àùåt noá vaâo bïå àúä vaâ cùng dêy cung. Con vêåt khöíng löì chúáp mùæt vaâ nghiïng àêìu sang möåt bïn. Con ngûúâi doäi theo, gêìn nhû nñn thúã.

Möåt ngûúâi àaân öng lúán tuöíi khöng dêëu nöíi sûå theâm thuöìng rúi nûúác miïëng àang

liïëm möi. Böîng nhiïn, Höìng quyâ möåt àêìu göëi xuöëng, nhùæm muåc tiïu vaâ bùæn ra saáu miïëng mùng xuyïn vaâo ngûåc àêìy löng tú cuãa con quaái vêåt. Noá vùng àêìu ra phña sau vaâ kïu lïn trong àau àúán.

Trong nhaáy mùæt, Höìng àaä úã trïn mònh noá. Cêìm gûúm trïn tay, cö lùng mònh vïì phña con vêåt, vùåt löng ngûåc cuãa noá vaâ nhanh choáng giaång chên keåp lêëy caái cöí boáng loaáng cuãa noá. Vúái möåt àöång taác uyïín chuyïín, cö ruát gûúm ra vaâ cûáa vaâo cöí noá röìi thaáo möåt caái tuái nilon ra tûâ thùæt lûng cuãa cö, àùåt noá caånh vïët cûáa àïí hûáng doâng tiïët àùåc traâo ra khoãi con vêåt àang chïët dêìn. Cö giûä con ngan thêåt chùåt möåt caách laånh luâng trong khi noá àang giaäy giuåa maånh liïåt. Chên con ngan àaåp xuöëng àêët laâm buåi bay muâ mõt.

Cuöëi cuâng, con vêåt àöí xuöëng, tûâ tûâ, cêm nñn, vaâ khi noá àaä höìn rúâi khoãi xaác, Höìng treâo xuöëng mùåt àêët. Cö buöåc caái tuái nilon giúâ àaä àêìy vaâ vêîn coân êëm laåi. Cö huyát saáo vaâ böën ngûúâi phuå nûä bïn kia àûúâng vöåi vaä mang theo nhûäng xoong chaão dao dôa, baân vaâ ghïë nhûåa nûäa. Möåt ngûúâi khaác ài sau, àêíy theo caái xe àêìy baát àuäa vaâ nhûäng caái thuâng to àûång nûúác duâng. Rêët khêín trûúng, nhûäng ngûúâi phuå nûä naây vùåt löng con ngan khöíng löì, laâm saåch noá vaâ bùæt àêìu loåc ra nhûäng miïëng múä to. Hoå xïëp baân ghïë xung quanh con ngan. Röìi tûâ tûâ, trong möåt sûå im lùång kinh hoaâng, con ngûúâi lï chên vïì phña con vêåt, ngöìi xuöëng vaâ goåi moán möåt caách àêìy kñnh troång vúái Höìng. Vaâ hoå bùæt àêìu ùn.

Cho đến ngày nay họ vẫn ăn ở đó từ 5 giờ chiều đến khoảng 11 giờ tối, bẩy ngày trong tuần Bún/Miến Ngan – Làm từ con ngan khổng lồ và măng. Giá 30.000 đồng - 40.000 đồng một bát với thịt ức, 50.000 đồng một bát với các miếng chặt ngon nhất và nhiều thịt nhất.

Tiết canh – 15.000 đồng/bát Tiết luôc – 20.000 đồng/bát Vì một vài lí do, cô Hồng không muốn đăng tải địa chỉ của cô, nhưng nếu bạn muốn thử món bún miến ngan vào loại ngon nhất Hà Nội, hãy email editor@wordhanoi.com và bạn sẽ được hướng dẫn đường tới đó.

The Word December 2011 | 95

ho chi minh city from japan with love decks, drums & rock & roll live in saigon

FROM JAPAN WITH LOVE

The executive editor of Japanese language publication Sketch, Kaoru Matsuhisa talks love, life and what it is to be different. Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly IT’S UNUSUAL FOR SOMEONE TO study Vietnamese as a foreign language at university. But then Kaoru is not your usual type of person.

Raised in Gifu, near Nagoya in Japan, to a Rinzai Buddhist priest father and a calligrapher mother, Kaoru’s seven continuous years in Ho Chi Minh City have seen her not only craft a career as an editor, but also find love, happiness and marriage.

This city has been her cradle and also the path to success both personally and at work.

But it wasn’t always like that. Kaoru’s career in the media started in late 2004 thanks to being trilingual — besides Japanese she speaks fluent English and Vietnamese. She had always wanted to work with words, so quit her job as a translator for a consulting company to apply for a role at Sketch magazine.

“I thought I was being hired as a writer but on my name card it said editor,” she laughs. She knew nothing about the work and had to “learn from scratch”. Stumbling her way through her first year Koaru eventually became a key member of the editorial team.

Now, over six years later, she’s the executive editor of the Japanese language publication Sketch and there may even be further progression at hand.

Her career success stems from an enthusiasm and love for all the people involved, the readers primarily but also her staff and the people she meets on a daily basis. Kaoru recognises “it's all about people in the end”, so recording her staff’s achievements or hearing positive feedback from a client is what inspires her, “Reaction is most rewarding to me.”

Although she is very much enjoying her work at Sketch, she has other paths she would eventually like to pursue.

Kaoru would love to create a magazine for Vietnamese readers. The philosophy of Sketch “is to be a bridge between Vietnam and Japan” and she would like to expand on this idea. “This country is full of charms and surprises. I want to introduce the charm of

96 | The Word December 2011

Vietnam to its people through the eyes of a foreigner.”

Unlucky in Love Kaoru’s time in this city has also seen her have a succession of relationships.

Tempestuous at best with partners from Germany, and even engagement to a man from Holland, for a while it seemed she was doomed to meeting the wrong men. Now, everything is more settled and she recently married Atsushi, an architect and interior designer who she met in Vietnam. Ironically he comes from Gifu, the same town as her.

Enjoying her new married life, she admits “my husband is adjusting himself to my lifestyle” rather than the other way round.

Kaoru has however made some adjustments of her own. “For my part, I don't take any work home (I used to do that a lot) and try not to stay in the office so late all the time.”

It isn’t always easy separating home and work life, however. “One thing with my job [is that] there is no separation between ‘work’ and ‘private.’” Getting her buzz from people, she enthuses about the people she finds along the way.

“I simply enjoy meeting people and visiting new places, and it's just impossible to be in either ‘work mode’ or ‘private mode.’ I just enjoy what I do, there is no point in separating the two.”

But while these are successes that have come to her during her time in this country, so it was another personal nuance that has shaped her life.

A Mark to Bear Born with a facial birthmark that quite simply makes her “different”, as a young child her parents tried all sorts of treatment for it. From traditional Chinese medicine to western-based procedures, it simply wouldn’t go away.

In the conservative Japan of her youth it was not an easy mark to bear and was even described by her best friend as being a “handicap”. When she was teased she would fight back because, as she says, “I may not

be beautiful, but I don’t want to lose, don’t want to be inferior to anyone else”.

That all changed when she went to high school in America.

“My mother always told me that I needed to be financially and spiritually independent,” she says. “And I was asking my mother to go and study in the US from when I was eight.”

Despite last minute protests from her homeroom teacher in Japan, she finally made it to a high school just outside Milwaukee when she was 17. Although, “when I arrived my English was terrible”.

Three months later she had improved enough to be able to express herself and understand what was going on around her and had to give a talk in class. Stood up in front of the other students suddenly someone piped up, “Your birthmark, it’s beautiful!”

“Everyone went quiet,” she remembers, “and I was upset, thinking that this girl was being nasty. But after the class all my friends came up to me and told me it was true. My birthmark was unique, they said, and it really made me stand out.”

Returning to Japan her mother offered her laser treatment, but she refused. By now she felt that the birthmark was part of her.

But that sense of being different remained.

And it was this that caused her to take Vietnamese at university.

“There were lots of popular Asian languages being studied in Japan at the time,” she says, “but I wanted to do something different. I read about Vietnam and found it to be chaotic but full of energy.

So I went with it.”

Now in her early 30s, out of the chaos of Vietnam she has helped create her own personal stability. Unsure of how long she will stay in this country, but absolutely sure she will continue editing, she also remains very much herself — unusual, charming and unique. “[The job title] executive editor is like a passport to meeting anyone I'd like to and learning a lot from them... How can anyone let go of that?”

The Word December 2011 | 97

Highway4

MYSTERY DINER Charner Café

101 Vo Van Tan, Q3. Tel: 3602 2069

98 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 3823 6065

French fare and local cuisine are the orders of the month for our critic’s discerning palate.

Photos by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

TAKING ITS TITLE FROM THE FORMER name of the boulevard on which the restaurant is situated, Charner Café aims to bring a touch of refined Parisian gentility to Saigon’s downtown dining scene.

Located above a small art gallery where Nguyen Hue meets Le Loi, we enter a pristinely whitewashed open-plan dining hall. Elegantly furnished with sophisticated French provincial dining tables and upholstered chairs, carved sofas, chandeliers, and heavy, tasselled beige curtains, an aristocratic and bourgeoisie atmosphere pervades.

Having taken to our large regal sofa chairs, a peruse through the menu reveals a much more pan-European and Asianfriendly direction than expected. And it’s pricey too. At least in parts. Starters such as homemade foie gras served with garlic bread and salad, (VND345,000) and fresh smoked salmon served with olive oil toast (VND185,000) actually cost more than many of the mains.

We opt for the three Toulouse sausages served with onion jam, button mushrooms and grilled baby potatoes to start, followed by the broiled crispy duck breast on risotto with honey and ginger sauce.

The waitress, dressed in a flowery yet conservative rural French chambermaid outfit, serves the meaty starter and the portion is jaw-droppingly huge. In total, four (one extra?) grilled sausages lay heaped on top of each other. Bizarrely, none look or tastes like a Toulouse sausage.

I see two small chipolatas and two large sausages that resemble a German Bratwurst and quite possibly a Frankfurt Rindwurst.

Perplexed but ravenously hungry, I

98 | The Word December 2011

tuck in regardless. The sausages are thick, juicy and delicious, heavy on the meat and lean on the gristle. The sweetness of the onion jam and the robust tang of the Dijon mustard complement the mildness of the sausages, while the delicately seasoned potatoes and mushrooms crumble and melt in the mouth with ease.

Having waited a little longer than usual for the main course, the staff is genuinely apologetic upon its arrival. In any case, the dish is worth the wait. I count nine generously sized duck breast medallions smothered in the sweet, brown honey and ginger sauce — an unthinkable amount considering the price.

Not too fatty or gamey in taste, and cooked somewhere between medium-rare and medium, the duck is tender enough for my knife to slide through unabated.

And though carrying enough meat to satisfy the biggest of carnivores, I’m left slightly disappointed by the skin’s lack of crispiness.

The risotto and side vegetables, however, are a delight all round. Creamy and congealed, though not dry like so many risottos, the mound of rice is savoury (countering the sweetness of the meat and sauce) and moist, with strands of spinach running through its core. Of the assorted veggies garnishing the plate (carrots, courgettes, green beans) it’s the cauliflower that makes the biggest impact with an unbelievably potent and fresh taste. In a city that seldom gets vegetables right, these are the best I’ve experienced.

We end the evening ordering the chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream.

However, what we’re presented with

resembles a slice of chocolate mud pie. And though excellent (the cake is rich, solid and moist), I’m left bemused by Charner Café’s misleading advertising. Regardless of the high quality of the food and service overall, they’d be best off working out the kinks in the menu before really disappointing any expectant or fussy customers. To paraphrase the old saying, the proof is in the pudding (and the sausages).

THE PRICES Three Toulouse sausages

VND165,000

Broiled crispy duck breast on risotto

VND275,000

Chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream

VND115,000

THE VERDICT Food: 11 Décor : 9 Service: 12.5

HAVING ESTABLISHED ITSELF AS ONE of Hanoi’s most popular restaurants since the opening of its flagship eatery in 2003, Highway4 has expanded into a successful franchise with five outlets now scattered across the capital, one in Ho Chi Minh City, and another due to open soon in Hoi An. And though the Ho Chi Minh City restaurant may have opened only five months ago, its menu of northern traditional and contemporary Vietnamese cuisine already appears to be proving a hit with the southern city’s foodies.

This seems to be the case when we rock up on a non-descript Monday evening only to discover that the top two levels of the three-storey building are completely full with customers, leaving us to grab a table on the ground floor.

Having heard all about the communal sushi-style dining quarters, where diners sit sunken into the ground, I feel pangs of regret while sitting at my regular four-legged table for having not made a reservation in advance.

Still, it’s the food we’re here for, not the seating arrangements, and the amount of choice the menu presents is staggering.

From salads, tapas and numerous spring rolls, to hot pots (or steamboats as they’re called here), and multiple rice, noodle, seafood, vegetarian and meat dishes, it’s hard to know where to begin.

On the recommendation of a fellow food writer up north, we order one of Highway4’s most loved specialities, nem ca xa lo4 (catfish spring rolls) and a selection of the restaurant’s award-winning Son Tinh rice wine. Beyond that, we’re left open to the suggestions of our ao dai-clad waitress. Not being the most adventurous of eaters, we sheepishly decline such delicacies as crickets roasted in pig fat and locusts roasted with lemon leaves in favour of chim cau rang muoi (pigeon roasted in salt) and bo nuong la chuoi (strips of beef grilled in banana leaves).

First out is the liquor, specifically four

small sampler glasses of tao meo (rose apple), man do (red plum), mo vang (apricot) and chanh leo (passion fruit) and two ominously named Devil’s Fart shooters.

Each of the former is smooth, sweet and easy on the tongue, while the latter packs a spicier wallop. Made from minh mang liquor and chilli syrup, the Devil’s Fart is surprisingly palatable, with hints of celery found between the initial sugary burst and hellishly hot after burn. For those looking for an alternative to beer or wine, the Son Tinh liquor selection is a winner.

Brought out in a large bowl garnished with lettuce and several colourful vegetables and edible flowers, the pigeon comes in winged form, and in a light, floury batter among roasted lemongrass strands, deep fried onion bits and large slices of chilli. It smells and tastes great; the fragrance of the lemongrass is subtle but long lasting while the saltiness of the batter and gamey texture of the dark and slightly chewy meat combine wonderfully. Dipped into the obligatory side bowl of lime, chilli, salt and pepper, this dish becomes utterly addictive. Best of all, there’s lots of it, too.

As soon as the bo nuong la chuoi is placed on our table a sweetly perfumed aroma emits from the large, unfolded banana leaf parcel, filling the nostrils instantly.

The strips of grilled beef are tender and plentiful, and come swimming in their own juices among a dozen or so soft banana flowers.

About half way through, the famous catfish spring rolls arrive. Simply put, they’re phenomenal, and really do steal the show. Without meaning to lessen this dish’s reputation, these six heavenly rolls taste like the best fish finger sandwiches ever. Wrapped in semi-transparent crispy rice paper, the fluffy catfish fillet comes encased in a light batter that’s simply topped off with mayonnaise and dill.

Personally, I’m not overly fond of the dark brown wasabi side sauce and am more

than happy to devour the spring rolls on their own.

The food tastes great and authentically Vietnamese without alienating foreign taste buds. The portions are huge and the prices are surprisingly affordable, even when tax and service is heaped on. Get down there before the entire restaurant fills out.

THE PRICES Son Tinh sampler set

VND75,000

Devil’s Fart shooter

VND30,000

Pigeon roasted in salt

VND99,000

Strips of beef grilled in banana leaves

VND95,000

Catfish spring rolls

VND84,000

THE VERDICT Food: 12.5 Décor : 11 Service: 10 FOOD, DECOR AND SERVICE ARE EACH RATED ON A SCALE OF 0 TO 15 13 – 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 – 12.5 very good to excellent 8 – 9.5 good to very good 5 – 7.5 fair to good 0 – 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews restaurants anonymously and pays for all meals The Word December 2011 | 99

DECKS, DRUMS & ROCK & ROLL

LIVE IN SAIGON

A DOSE OF FAME

PHOTO PROVIDED BY C-MANGEMENT

Left to Right: Simon Jackson, James Freemantle, John Tufnell, Jon Lamont

John Thornton sat down with British alt. rock quartet, The Lost Souls Club, over smoothies and ca phe da to discuss their return to Vietnam and stoke the flames of rock 'n roll banter It’s been 10 months since we last saw you, how does it feel to be back in Vietnam?

Jon T: It feels almost like coming home. The response we got the first time was completely unexpected as we’re a brand new band here, and so to come back and get the same response but better and see old friends and recognise faces in the crowd is amazing.

Where else are you touring and do you have any releases coming out soon?

Simon: We’re playing in Singapore for a show put on by Bulldog London Dry Gin, and then we’re all over Australia for six weeks to tour with The International Swingers, which is a band featuring former Sex Pistols bassist Glen Matlock and Blondie drummer Clem Burke.

Jon T: It’s all in support of High Noon, our debut EP and first hardcopy release. We did everything ourselves, from the writing to the recording, down to the artwork, and it’s going to be available in Australia first, and then in UK in the New Year. Then I think at that point it’s going to go worldwide on iTunes.

This next question could lead to serious embarrassment and ridicule at the hands of your bandmates. Jon L, put your iPod on shuffle.

Honestly, what are the first five tracks that come up?

Jon L: 1. Muse – Hoodoo, 2. Led Zeppelin – Celebration Day, 3. My Bloody Valentine – Only Shallow, 4. Queen – The Miracle, 5. Electric Soft Parade – Red Balloon

100 | The Word December 2011

Committee.

Very credible! You’ve passed! Which actually means you’ve failed because that question was designed to expose your secret love of Madonna and the Pet Shop Boys. So, do any of you have any pre-gig rituals?

James: I normally just have a poo! [the band erupts in laughter]… and a bottle of water.

Who would you like to portray you in a rock biopic about The Lost Souls Club?

Jon T: I’d quite like Justin Beiber to portray me, once he’s moved into acting. I think he could do the slightly girly-guy thing quite well.

Jon L: Wynona Rider for James!

Jon T:… or Russell Brand because everywhere we went in China they all thought James was him. For Simon, it’s got to be the bloke that played Uncle Albert in Only Fools and Horses! [the band breaks out in laughter again] And I reckon I could play Jon L. So, Justin Beiber, Uncle Albert, Jon Tufnell and Wynona Rider or Russell Brand, that’s a pretty…. interesting rock & roll line-up! Speaking of rock, what was the first record you bought with your own money?

Simon: I bought two, actually. Bulls On Parade by Rage Against the Machine and Pantera’s The Great Southern Dream Kill.

Jon T: I bought Bad by Michael Jackson on tape from Vertigo Records in Winchester High Street for £6.01. It was £5.99 the week before I bought it so even though I’d saved up I had to borrow two pence from my dad! Does that still count?!

Jon L: Inevitably, I think mine was Queen’s Sheer Heart Attack. I’ve got it on cassette and remember opening the inlay, which was really long, reading the lyrics pages and thinking it was cool as f***.

James: Probably Nirvana, to be honest. I can’t remember which one but Cobain was dead by then so it could have been any of them!

Name an album guaranteed to get someone laid...

Jon T: Maybe some of the Bristol trip-hop stuff, like Massive Attack’s Blue Lines or Portishead’s Dummy. Or The Downward Spiral by Nine Inch Nails if it’s a goth bird, you can’t go wrong.

James: I actually did it to one of these guys’ old CDs! [hysterical laughter erupts] It suddenly came on when the stero changed CDs randomly and I thought, ‘hmmm, I know that voice’. It was a little distracting but I powered through.

What was the first concert you attended?

Jon L: Mine was Hole, Courtney Love’s band, at Brixton Academy, when I was very young. I got right into the mosh pit and nearly died. My mate who I went with got floored and when I picked him up he looked at me all dazed and said, “I just found 20 quid!” Jammy git.

Thanh Da Island, Dec. 10, VND100,000 (before 8pm) dOSe celebrates its four-year anniversary this month with a massive all-day party extravaganza that’ll see quite possibly the biggest ever line-up of Saigon’s DJs, musicians and multi-media artists come together.

Held from dusk till dawn on Thanh Da Island, a dOSe of FAME will see fashion, art, music and entertainment (peep the acronym, folks!) from Vietnam, France, Germany, Romania, Canada, Thailand, Spain, the Philippines, the US and the UK, all colliding in one momentous event.

Expect a mash-up of hip-hop, house, funk, soul, electro, dub, indie, afro-Brazil and much more over two dancefloors, courtesy of Kamel Night, DJ Peanuts, Jan Hagenkoetter, DJ Drew, Nic Ford, Jordan Howard, Everyone’s A DJ, DJ Antoine, Scrambled Edge, and DJ Slide, as well as a very special headlining performance by the one and only Quantic.

For those unfamiliar, the UK’s Quantic is one of the most talented and prolific artists in the world of alternative dance music. Combining jazz sensibility with future dancefloor orientated grooves, deep funk, tough drums and tropical rhythms, Quantic is best known for his solo albums, The 5th Exotic, Apricot Morning and Mishaps Happening, as well as his work with live band and perennial festival favourites, the Quantic Soul Orchestra.

MICHELLE MANZO Park Hyatt Saigon, Dec. 1 to Dec. 31, Free admission The Park Hyatt Saigon marks the end of 2011 with the arrival of accomplished vocalist, Michelle Manzo, this month. A dedicated jazz performer, Michelle’s exotic warm voice and four-octave range offer a unique, individual sound.

Born and raised in Miami, Michelle is a self-taught pianist raised on Cuban and African folkloric music with a love of syncopated rhythms and percussion as well as the classical stylings of Bach, Mozart and Beethoven.

Having received a Bachelors degree in Fine Arts in music as a scholarship student at City College of New York, Michelle has received plenty of accolades for both her singing and song writing.

Michelle Manzo will perform every Wednesday through Sunday evening in the Park Lounge from Dec. 1 up until New Year’s Eve. The Park Hyatt Saigon is located at 2 Lam Son Square, Q1. For more information, call 3824 1234 or email saigon.park@hyatt.com

Elsewhere on the bill, Vietnamese vocalist Thao Trang, winner of Vietnam Idol 2009, will perform live, as will French VJ Disco Cactus and prolific Filipino keyboardist, Jason Jazz. Known for manipulating keys into drums, horns, bass and anything that doesn’t sound like a typical piano, Jason should make for one of the more off-the-wall draws of the day.

And if all of that wasn’t enough, Spanish video graphics artist Alicia Billon, Canadian photographer Fred Wissink, Vietnamese fashionista Linda Mai Phung, Saigon Tattoo and independent film festival, Future Shorts, will all be contributing to the event with various interactive viewings, installations, demonstrations and live performances. a dOSe of FAME takes place at 1163 Xo Viet Nghe Trinh, Thanh Da Island, Binh An Village, Binh Thanh, on Dec. 10 from 4pm to 4am. Tickets cost VND100,000 before 8pm and include a free San Miguel beer and dOSe goody bag. A round-trip shuttle bus service departing from Alibi (5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1) will run every 60 minutes from 3.30pm to 12.30am, costing VND30,000 per person or VND100,000 including a free beer or cocktail. The return journey from Thanh Da will run on the hour from 9pm to 2am. Food and drink will be available. For further information, visit www.jazznotjazz.com

THE BEATS SAIGON 5TH ANNIVERSARY Vasco’s, Dec. 10, Free Admission (Doshy) Vasco’s, Dec. 17, TBA (Goth-Trad & DJ Heru) The Beats Saigon celebrates its fifth anniversary this month with two weekends of superb international acts.

First up is German DJ and producer, Doshy, on Dec. 10. Influenced by sci-fi books and films, and 1980’s and 1990’s electro music, Doshy is currently leading the way in the Berlin postdubstep scene, inspired by the city’s vibrant club scene and pushing sounds beyond the city’s notorious minimal obsession.

One week later, experimental Japanese electronic artist, Goth-Trad, and Low End Theory’s DJ Heru will take to the decks on Dec. 17.

A unique producer with an idiosyncratic style, Goth-Trad has emerged from the Japanese electronic scene in the last few years as one of the most arresting artists from his generation. Freely playing samplers, keyboards and even self-made instruments, Goth-Trad creates remarkable dance music, from abstract electronica, noise and dub, to reggae, jungle, rave, grime and dubstep.

Originally from south Texas, DJ Heru was a drum n’ bass head in the mid-to-late 1990s before making the move to Los Angeles where he has become embroiled in hip-hop and dubstep, playing alongside the likes of Joker and Nosaj Thing as part of the ever-evolving Low End Theory collective.

Doshy, Goth-Trad and DJ Heru are presented by The Beats Saigon. Vasco’s is located at 74D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 and both shows will start around 9pm

The Word December 2011 | 101

ho chi minh city

ho chi minh city MID-RANGE

Ho Chi Minh City Listings BARS & NIGHTCLUBS 102 RESTAURANTS - CHINESE 102 RESTAURANT - FRENCH 102 RESTAURANT - INDIAN 102 RESTAURANT - INTERNATIONAL 102

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS 2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR) TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 4pm to 1am. Fridays and Saturday until 2am.

Contemporary international décor blends seamlessly with local themes to create the most lavish but tastefully designed bar in the city. It may mean you have to pay five-star prices – the cocktails here go for over VND200,000 – but the monied-up punters still come in their droves. Easy listening, dance-style music plays over the sound system while drinks go from a range of Martini-base cocktails through to spirits by the bottle and 15 wines by the glass.

APOCALYPSE NOW MIXED POP MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 2C Thi Sach, Q1 Tel: 3825 6124 7pm to 2am One of the oldest nightclubs in Saigon, the foreigner orientated Apo nonetheless draws in a healthy mix of tourists, expats and locals who intermingle on the club’s two floors and outdoor terrace every night of the week. Now charging a VND150,000 entrance fee on Fridays and Saturdays (which includes a free drink), the DJs here cater to the more populist side of music.

Cue mainstream hits by the Black Eyed Peas, Usher and golden oldies by Wham!, Bon Jovi and even The Smiths (on occasion!). A place for singles to meet singles and lonely hearts to get less lonely.

CLOUD 9

+

LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 0948 343399 5.30pm to late Set above Gloria Jean’s just behind Diamond Plaza, this two-floor venue with an upstairs terrace and garden space comes

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

+

HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

102 | The Word December 2011

RESTAURANT - ITALIAN 103 RESTAURANT - SOUTHEAST ASIAN 103 RESTAURANT - VIETNAMESE 104 RESOBARS 104

from the same people who created Velvet.

It marks the latest trend in Vietnamese bars — stylish, comfortable decor, an extensive wine menu to complement the cocktails and top-shelf spirits, and music played at a volume still conducive to conversation. A place to be seen. +

LAVISH

DANCE / HIP-HOP 5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 0933 998389 9pm to late With its illusory and decorative style, shisha pipes, eye-catching laser displays, and impressive DJ sets, Lavish is a prime place to both unwind and live it up on the weekends. The hanging chandeliers and red velvet curtains exude a luxurious vibe that’s also reflected in the drinks prices.

However, on Ladies’ Night every Tuesday from 8.30pm to 11pm, ladies can enjoy two free drinks such as cocktails, beers and soft drinks.

LUSH

+

PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 5pm to late With its downstairs tear-shaped bar and lounge-style seating running right up to the bar space, Lush may not have a dedicated dance floor. But when it comes to all things progressive, this often controversial venue remains one of the city’s leading lights. Overseas DJs, ladies’ nights on Tuesdays and a cosmopolitan clientele merge seamlessly with the red velvet and cartoon-style decor to create one of the city’s iconic bars. Also has a more chilled bar space out back.

VASCO’S

+

EVENT / PARTY VENUE The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12pm (weekdays). Open late on weekends.

A paragon downtown party venue popular with expats and tourists that showcases a range of events from DJ nights through to cover bands and live music from overseas. Has a downstairs terrace area with a separate aircon room and two upstairs bars together with a stage for gigs and much more. Snack menu includes burgers, sandwiches, skewers and some of the best pizzas in town.

RESTAURANTS - CHINESE BUDGET TIEM COM GA HAI NAM CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 7751 / 3821 8759 www.comgahainam.vn The popularity of Hainanese-style chicken rice is unsurprising considering this city’s large Chinese population. But few places do this iconic dish as well as this multi-storey eatery. Prepared downstairs out front, choose from ga luoc (chicken), xa xiu (sweet-roasted pork), vit quay (roasted duck), heo quay (roasted pork) and a range of other options. Also serves up binh dan-style Vietnamese fare, all cooked up with home cooking flair.

TAN HAI VAN PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES 162 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0824 Open 24 hours If ever a restaurant could be said to start a trend, then Tan Hai Van fits into the mould. The first of the late-night restaurants to populate the District 1 end of Nguyen Trai, this long-running bustling venue offers the full range of Chinese fare, from dim sum and homemade noodle soup through to rice dishes, seafood and the likes of abalone. One of the best–known restaurants in town and perfect if you have an attack of midnight munchies.

RESTAURANTS – INDIAN BUDGET THE PUNJABI NORTH INDIAN 40/3 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3508 3777 11am to 11pm daily Don’t be duped by the backpacker eatery veneer, The Punjabi knocks out some seriously good North Indian fare at budget prices. Located on the same hem as Chi’s Cafe, Vegetarian dishes go for around VND40,000 while the chicken and mutton mains hit VND70,000 to VND85,000. Portions are big, too, and don’t forget to check out the fare from this eatery’s self-made tandoor oven.

Excellent.

MID TO TOP

MID-RANGE

KABIN

GANESH

SZECHUAN / CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.marriott.com 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Offers authentic, gourmet Szechuan and Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. The menus for both lunch and dinner are extensive, and this is without doubt one of the city’s finest restaurants both for dim sum and classic Chinese fare. Dim sum goes for between VND30,000 and VND50,000 per dish.

RESTAURANTS – FRENCH MID TO TOP TY COZ CLASSIC FRENCH 178/4 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3822 2457 11am to 1pm, 6pm to 9.30pm (9pm on Sunday). Closed Monday Run by two brothers, this unassuming space boasting views of the cathedral is set down an alleyway in a colonial villa.

And, for many aficionados, it serves up some of the best, classic French cuisine in town. A daily carte du jour specials board, set business lunches and desserts to die for are part of the offering here, as is a rooftop terrace area, perfect for good weather.

TOP-END LA CAMARGUE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 191 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3520 4888 6pm to 10.30pm A romantic, leafy, French villa setting creates the atmosphere at this longrunning white tablecloth Saigon mainstay.

Serving a mixture of French-influenced Mediterranean cuisine with the occasional addition of Camargue region spices, the menu has a timeless feel to it but with a welcome modern slant. Excellent range of desserts and a great old and new world wine list.

LA CUISINE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 29B Ngo Van Nam, Q1 Tel: 2229 8882 www.lacuisine.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Decidedly intimate, this whitewashed, open-kitchened, 22-seater restaurant with sandalwood tables and seating specializes in a creative mix of contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with a French twist. With an extensive old and new world wine list – 75 at present count – and a small but well-thought out menu, despite its size this is a place to wine and dine with both friends and loved ones.

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 3017 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com 5.30pm to 10.30pm A place where the ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and fresh, the three-storey Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. The subtle flavours of the northern menu are complemented by spicier more fragrant South Indian curries, roti paratha, dosas, vadas and uthapams.

Has a second Phu My Hung Restaurant at S28 Sky Garden 1 (Tel: 5410 1627).

MUMTAZ NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN MUGHAL 226 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 1767 mumtazvn@gmail.com 11am to 11pm daily Impeccable presentation and bold décor greet you as you enter one of the Backpacker Area’s longest running Indians, and pretty much the only one adding a Southern Indian menu to the North Indian standards served elsewhere — think dosas, vadas and more. Curries cost between VND80,000 and VND110,000 each while the tandoor fare is some of the best in town. Has a branch in Danang and a second Saigon restaurant in Phu My Hung.

TANDOOR

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NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com 11am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm For its downtown location, prices at this pioneer of the city’s Indian dining scene remain surprisingly cheap. Three floors, with cream-coloured airport lounge décor and a deep maroon rangoli-patterned wall, are added to by an extensive menu taking in anything from the more creamy korma and rogan josh curries through to masala, vindaloo, dosa, kebabs and sambhar. Has a great range of vegetarian fare and an efficient delivery service.

RESTAURANTS – INTERNATIONAL BUDGET CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 7622 7am to 11pm daily Run by the enigmatic Chi, this affable, long-running café with art-lined walls is probably one of the only places in town where you will regularly hear the likes of Bob Dylan on the sound system.

Famed for its build-your-own breakfasts, the menu takes in anything from baked potatoes, sandwiches, toasties and salads through to pasta, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a visa and long-term motorbike rental service.

MID-RANGE AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1. Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm. Sunday 8am to 5pm Consistently tasty Mediterranean and European cafe fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads, kebabs, bagels and mezzes — as well as prices that go easy on the wallet have been one source of Au Parc’s success. Then there is the park-side Le Duan location and the classic but eye-catching cream and green-tiled decor.

Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix. Excellent delivery service.

BERNIE’S BAR & GRILL

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INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 19 Thai Van Lung, Q1. Tel: 3822 1720 www.berniesbar.com 7.30am to 11pm daily Famed for its Australian-style burgers served up with pickled beetroot and fried egg, the two-storey, bistro-style Bernie’s is much more than a burger joint. Boasting comfort food-style mains ranging from steaks, grills and pizzas through to pasta, sandwiches, salads and panini, this venue also has a Vietnamese food menu. Live music enters proceedings on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays and space is also available for private functions.

ELBOW ROOM AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3821 4327 www.elbowroom.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Blackboards, diner-style advertising placards and black and white photography cover the bare brick walls at this striking but upmarket, two-storey US-style diner. The comfort food cuisine is an all American affair, with anything from meatball baguettes through to chilli burgers, pastas, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive, more international mains. Has an extensive wine list and an efficient delivery service.

REFINERY FRENCH BISTRO The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon@gmail.com 11am to 10.30pm daily (11pm on Friday and Saturday) A slightly retro, Parisian influence pervades this popular French-style bistro named after the square once housing the city’s opium refinery. The first restaurant to open its doors in this space close to the Park Hyatt, a leafy outdoor terrace mixes with an indoor aircon space and bar area. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to pasta, a selection of Mediterranean influenced mains and sandwiches (served at lunch only). Has an extensive wine list.

SUBWAY 171 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1. Tel: 3836 4497 www.subway.com 7am to 10pm Selling the iconic selection of submarine sandwiches that has made this brand famous the world over, Vietnam’s first Subway store includes the likes of Buffalo Chicken and Italian BMT on its menu. All subs are made to order with the same choose-your-own toppings, breads and sauces selection available elsewhere.

Upgrade your six-inch to a footlong whopper for VND30,000 or go for a combo meal including potato chips or cookie and a drink from VND85,000.

WARDA MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com 8am to midnight One of the first restaurants to open on a downtown alleyway now jam-packed with

eateries, the deep colours, harem-style décor, arches, lightboxes, Arabic script and cushion-friendly outdoor terrace area gives this popular venue its unique touch.

The food is good, too, taking in anything from tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal through to shwarma, kofta and the kebab Istambouli.

MID TO TOP FLOW SAIGON CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 88 Ho Tung Mau, Q1. Tel: 3915 3691 www.flowsaigon.com 7.30am to midnight, Monday to Friday.

10am to midnight, Saturday. 10am to 3.30pm, Sunday Opening up onto an enormous first floor dining area with an outdoor terrace to boot, this black and white, artwork-clad space with touches of deep red is one of the latest international styled restaurants to descend on Saigon. Excellent service, an extensive wine menu and modern fusion European cuisine all combine to make this a great place for a quality meal.

Also puts on events and film screenings.

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3827 0931 8.30am to 11pm daily An attractive outdoor terrace together and a smaller indoor aircon area are the draw at this well-known Australian-styled international fusion restaurant that is part of the Al Fresco’s Group. Although a chain restaurant, the offerings here are consistently good — the cuisine includes pasta, noodles and salads together with burgers, pizzas and an excellent selection of steaks and grill-style mains. Excellent service and a good kids menu. Second restaurant at 33 Dong Khoi, Q1.

PASHA

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rary international–style grill and modern European fare with sushi and sashimi.

THE DECK

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MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, An Phu, Q2. Tel: 3744 6632 www.thedecksaigon.com 8am to late daily. Last order 10pm.

Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, the soothing riverside location provides the perfect setting for this innovative restaurant. Serving up European-influenced Asian fusion cuisine in both an airy indoor and roof-covered outdoor space, the menu is complemented by great cocktails, a wine list of over 100 wines and a new bar in the front garden area replete with designer furniture.

RESTAURANTS – ITALIAN MID-RANGE PENDOLASCO PAN-ITALIAN 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 3821 8181 www.pendolasco-restaurantvietnam.com 10am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area surrounded by an L-shaped indoor dining space, this Trattoria-style Italian has been serving up quality cuisine for years. Homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and a range of grilled mains make up the menu. The wine list takes in Italian as well as new and old world.

MID TO TOP LA HOSTARIA TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3823 1080 www.lahostaria.com 9.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm This downtown hideaway with tasteful,

rustic–style decor trawls the various regions of Italy for inspiration and the result is traditional cuisine with a light, fresh touch. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also does excellent homemade pasta and some of the best pizzas in town courtesy of their hand-built wood-fired oven.

POMODORO PAN-ITALIAN 79 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 8998 www.pomodoro-vietnam.com 10am to 10pm Recently expanded, this neat, spacious, brick-walled Italian favourite has long been serving up top-calibre fare within a minute’s walk of the Opera House.

The menu is typical of the boot-shaped peninsula, with insalate, primi patti, pesce, carni, pasta, dolci and pizza lining its pages. A refreshing selection of vegetarian fare is also available taking in ravioli, caponatra, risotto and cannelloni.

This is a solid restaurant serving up solid cuisine.

RESTAURANTS – SOUTHEAST ASIAN BUDGET CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE 185 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 1311 11.30am to 10.30pm daily Owned by a Thai-trained Vietnamese chef, the time spent in a real Thai kitchen shows at Coriander, one of the few eateries in town serving up decent pan-Thai cuisine. The egg-wrapped pad thai here is better than you often get in its country of origin, and the curries, som tam and tom yum goong are also good, with dishes generally going for between VND60,000 and VND70,000 for a main.

TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1. Tel: 6291 3677 www.pasha.com.vn 10am to 2am A sumptuous but tasteful Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating. The cuisine here is authentically Turkish with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in, too. Think falafel, shish, doner and kofta kebabs, all served up with homemade breads as well as the likes of pizaa, moussaka, fish and chips and more.

SKEWERS

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INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1. Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm daily Simple, unpretentious Mediterranean cuisine is served at this long-running, bare-brick restaurant in the heart of the foreign ghetto. With dishes ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, pastas, risottos, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers, this is the only eatery in town serving Greek cuisine. Also has an extensive wine list and an excellent upstairs cigar room with a range of Cubans and more to match.

TOP-END SHRI CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN / SASHIMI 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3827 9631 11am to midnight. 10.30pm last order A well-thought out and romantic venue up on high with sweeping views over central Saigon. A breezy lounge–style outdoor terrace, an indoor bar area and sushi bar, as wells as a separate dining room with 270–degree views of the city makes up this enormous, no-comfort-spared space.

The excellent food menu mixes contempo-

The Word December 2011 | 103

ho chi minh city MID-RANGE LION CITY

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SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Tel: 3823 8371 www.lioncityrestaurant.com 7am to 3am Singaporean and Malaysian specialities fill the menu at this friendly, authentic five-storey Lion City eatery. Think the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, mee Siam, roti prata, awesome chicken curry as well as the specialities of the house — frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry. Does an efficient delivery service and has more restaurants at 701 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, 141 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 and 206 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh.

RESTAURANTS – VIETNAMESE BUDGET BANH XEO 46A BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1 Tel: 3824 1110 10am to 9pm Set down a side street around the back of Tan Dinh Market, this sterling testament to tasty Vietnamese cuisine continues to stake its claim as one of the best banh xeo joints in town. But don’t expect frills. The outdoor, covered bench seating is much as it was a decade ago and the fare is simple but amazingly tasty — the pork, beansprout and prawn pancake served up with roll-your-own salad leaves and fresh herbs. Also has a big range of Hue and pan-Vietnamese dishes.

VIET CHAY BUDDHIST VEGETARIAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3848 3399 7am to 9.30pm If you’re into Buddhist-style vegetarian cuisine and aren’t put off by faux meat, the offerings at Viet Chay are among the best in town. Set in the grounds of the city’s largest pagoda, the joint, hygienic indoor, outdoor space is the setting for dishes like tuna made out of bean curd and pork ribs constructed out of tofu.

Sounds odd but tastes great and prices are cheap, too.

MID-RANGE 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 1631 5pm to 11pm A steamy, smoky rooftop homage to the art of barbequing and grilling, with an expansive menu of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes on offer. Often packed to the brim, the barbecue experience takes place at the table with diners either barbecuing the pre-marinated ingredients by themselves or with the aid of the waiting staff. Best to book in advance.

CUC GACH QUAN

104 | The Word December 2011

HARD ROCK CAFÉ

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 1676 hoatuc@gmail.com 10.30am to 10.30pm daily The eye-catching flowery décor, purple velvet seating and outdoor tea garden at this well-known downtown restaurant is complemented by highly rated Vietnamese cuisine made using authentic, quality ingredients. Has a number of specialities including the pink pomelo squid and crab salad, the mustard leaf prawn rolls, the fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

Also runs separate cooking classes.

AMERICAN / LIVE MUSIC Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 6291 7595 www.hardrockcafe.vn 11am to midnight The rock memorabilia, cowboy-like, rockcentred American food menu and branded décor at the Saigon version of this international branded café provide for one of the city’s few, medium capacity downtown music venues. The nightly live music is accompanied by a pricey (for Saigon) food menu that includes burgers, hickorysmoked BBQ ribs, fajitas, sandwiches and salads. Puts on regular events – check their website for details.

LUONG SON

LA FENETRE SOLEIL

PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3825 1330 lsq.reservation@gmail.com 10am to 10pm Open since 1995, a two-year hiatus preceded the recent return of this wellknown just-off-downtown eating haunt.

Famous for its signature dish, bo tung xeo — thin strips of marinated beef grilled at the table — this fan-cooled eatery is a pleasant step up from many of the city’s quan nhau. Also known for its slightly more unusual offerings — scorpion, grubs, ostrich and crickets. Try if you dare!

RESTOBARS ALA MEZON

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10 Chu Minh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 6291 0447 alamezon.vn@gmail.com 11.30am to 1am A restobar where France meets Japan, this innovative and bold four-floor venue mixes Gallic flair with all the nuances of the Land of the Rising Sun. With lime green in the stairwells, maroon on the ground floor and orange moving up to the subtly lit top-floor terrace, the bar areas and dining spaces are complemented by two games rooms for playing board games, Wii and X-Box. The menu encompasses the same eclectic mix, with ika kappa maki sitting next to baked clams gratinee and beef carpaccio. A bit of something for everyone.

ALIBI INTERNATIONAL / PAN-ASIAN FUSION 5 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3825 6257 www.alibi.vn 10am to late daily Swathed in deep red and with dark wooden lightbox panelling, the addition of black and white Saigon street-scene photos gives this three-storey restobar an atmosphere of an upscale, sleek equivalent in New York or London. Choose between the shared-table downstairs bar area or the more traditional upstairs seating and a menu that blends small fusion cuisine style plates with larger mains and excellent gourmet pizza.

CEPAGE LOUNGE BAR / INTERNATIONAL Lancaster Building, 22 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 8733 www.cepage.biz 8am to 12pm. Sunday 5pm to 12pm When the plush but chic Cepage opened its doors, its décor and concept caused a stir thanks to its lounge-style seating, eye-catching subtly lit bar area, upstairs restaurant and glass-fronted wine cellar.

Then there was the international, Japanese-influenced food menu, put together

by German Andreas Ertle, one of the city’s best chefs. More than three years on this comfortable but well-priced restobar still hits the spot, and also boasts one of the most creative cocktail lists in town. Check out their black box lunchtime deal.

2nd Floor, 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3824 5994 10am to midnight Bare brick walls, art-deco repro furniture and a parlour-like elegance that brings with it all the glamour of old Saigon puts La Fenetre Soleil in a class of its own.

Serving up a range of cocktails, imported beer, coffee and smoothies together with a Japanese-Vietnamese fusion menu, atmosphere and the slightly-off-the-maindrag location makes this a great spot to while away those afternoon hours or catch a night-time drink. Does a set lunch menu from 11.30am to 2pm.

LE PUB

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3837 7679 www.lepub.org 9am to 1am daily Swathed in deep red with dark wooden seating and attractive, art-themed décor, Le Pub remains one of the best restobars in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly service, good atmosphere and tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Prices are reasonable, too. Shows the live sport, has a Tuesday night pub quiz and also runs daily specials on drinks.

LONG PHI FRENCH / RESTOBAR #003 / 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 2704 6pm to very late, Tuesday to Sunday Now in its third incarnation, the Frenchrun Long Phi has been serving the Backpacker’s Area since the late 1990s and has swathes of mainly Gallic regulars to prop up the bar. Not to say that this place only caters for the French community – far from it. But Ricard and other similar fare including the excellent cuisine (sold until the early hours) are very much in evidence here. Occasional live music.

O BRIEN’S

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IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3829 3198 11am to 1am. Sundays 4pm to 1am One the city’s longest serving bars, this well-ordered, two-storey Irish-themed watering hole sports a copper-topped bar area, bare-brick walls, dark wooden seating and good service to boot. Known for its excellent food menu, the international fare includes Irish stew, Cajun chicken, panini merguez, tasty pizzas, comfort pub grub and the to-die-for zesty beef roll-ups.

Also has a great selection of whiskeys and an upstairs pool table.

PACHARAN

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SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 6924 www.pacharan.com.vn Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar at this multi-storey, Spanish-styled tapas and bodegas. Decorated in tile-like, impressionist rounded

reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s location, regular live music and its ability to show its customers a good time have made it one of the mainstays of the downtown wining and dining scene. The food menu includes tapas, paella, larger mains and an extensive, Iberian wine list.

PHATTY’S

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46–48 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com 9am to midnight Taking over from where the original Café Latin finally failed, the attractive Phatty’s has become the Australian-themed sports bar with its myriad of large screens and beer-guzzling but homely atmosphere.

Showing all the live sport — from international cricket through to Aussie Rules, Rugby and even the occasional soccer (football) game — the punters also have access to an excellent pub grub menu taking in anything from hot dogs, sandwiches and burgers through to excellent grill options, pizzas and international mains.

the final say hanging h anging u up p th tthe he b backpack ackpack ttrivia rivia buff buff ff

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SANDALS

MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL 93 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3827 5198 www.sailingclubvietnam.com 7am to 12am Creative, international-influenced Mediterranean cuisine is the focus at this airy, Buddha-inspired, sandalwood coloured restobar that is part of the Sailing Club chain in Mui Ne and Nha Trang. With a downstairs bar area, two floors of dining space and an upstairs terrace-cum-lounge bar, Sandals provides a pleasant, more laid back alternative to the standard nightlife and dining scene in downtown Saigon. Has a range of specials and happy hours on offer.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH PUB

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17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 8am to midnight All the charm of a traditional, booth-like, leather upholstered Irish pub with Celticthemed décor and old family photos to match. Has nightly live music from 8pm and also does some of the best home– style pub grub in town with Irish stew and Irish breakfasts making an appearance together with more international fare. Has a large upstairs space as well as a separate smoking room while Guinness and a good range of Irish whiskeys completing the Emerald Isle theme. Probably the only genuine pub in Saigon.

VINO WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 www.vinovietnam.com 10am to 10pm daily The terrace out front acts as a great after work drinking spot at this well-known downtown wine shop. Up to 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer and a selection of mini, tapas-like dishes such as albondigas, chorizo, cheese plates, antipasti, jumbo olives and garlic tiger prawns make up the selection here.

ZANZBAR

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION 41 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 7375 info@saigongourmetgroup 7am to 1am daily Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list, a laid back atmosphere and a conversation-friendly bar area mix with a dining space out back and international fusion cuisine to make this one of downtown’s go-to destinations. Running the gamut from sake ‘n’ harissa marinated cod through to torchon of lamb, chicken souvlaki, a lemon pepper salmon salad, a chimichurri burger and a range of enticing desserts, the cuisine here is top-notch and the presentation excellent.

PHOTO BY DOMINIC BLEWETT

MODERN VIETNAMESE 10 Dang Tat, Q1 Tel: 3848 0144 www.ktstranbinh.com 9am to midnight A converted French villa, when it comes to a romantic timeless setting and a mixed Indochine, rustic Vietnamese décor, this café-cum-restaurant stands well-and-truly alone. The work of architect Tran Binh and his French-Vietnamese wife, the cuisine here is good, too, taking in a mixture of street food dishes done well with good ingredients together with a selection of more contemporary options.

HOA TUC

hanging up the backpack Roz Plotzker chose Hanoi as a place to retire from tourism, and has found herself looking at backpackers differently ever since.

Photo by Dominic Blewett

106 | The Word December 2011

“I see the wanderers slipping in and out, culturally promiscuous the way I was, but with Hanoi - my Hanoi - and it’s difficult not to feel a little defensive. She’s special and they barely even know her”

n Ma May Street, a few blocks from Hoan Kiem Lake, there is a small bar named after a Dennis Hopper movie. The TV inside plays HBO on mute.

The speakers wail songs by Kesha and Flo Rider. The lights are restricted to pink and green bulbs, tinting a mural of the American desert odd shades. The food is bad, but the shisha is good so my friend and I always end up here. At an outdoor table, we puff on flavoured tobacco, blowing it into the mix of bike fumes and smoke from beef BBQs. On any given night, the passersby make up a strange community that I’ve grown accustomed to over the past five months. There are xe om drivers, shop owners, bar staff beckoning business, children and their mothers; street vendors with fried dough balls and street vendors with nail files, lighters and hairbands.

In the Old Quarter, they create a reliable hum every evening, regardless of the day of the week. They are always here.

Then, there are the passersby who are both here and not here. They are at the centre everything but so far removed.

They are backpackers, with sacks slung turtle-like on their backs. They are the eye in a storm of tourism. They stalk through the streets, half-smiling expressions gazing onto a scene that seems so foreign to them. I wonder if they ever realise that they are the foreign ones.

I watch carefully and exhale clouds onto Ma May. I make quick judgments.

Look at those socks! They must be Danish!

Damn loudmouthed Ozzies… err…

Kiwis?…. errr … Damn British, colonising everything.

O

Look at that one with all the patches on his pack. Probably compensating for something.

It’s Mine Not Yours The relationship between foreign residents here and backpackers is full of delicate sibling rivalry. When I see my western counterparts in the Old Quarter, I feel the emotional mix of contempt and a conflicting allegiance in our foreignness.

It’s like how I felt towards my little brother when I was 12 years old, the year he started coming to my summer camp.

Him, on my turf. Him, a threat to my identity! I was no longer “Roz”. I was “One of the Plotzker kids”. And despite the drastic differences between my little brother and I — him, younger, nerdier, and generally irritating — we were paired in people’s minds. I had a new challenge: to distinguish myself from him. Real or imagined, the pressure was there.

In the Old Quarter I feel equally misrepresented. When approached by a Vietnamese vendor, I quickly resort to the rudimentary Vietnamese I’ve learned so far. I want to signal, “Hey, I’m here. I’m not just popping in for a few days to take the Halong boat ride”.

Not that I haven’t seen Halong. Not that I haven’t been a backpacker at some point, or worn all my earthly possessions on my shoulders. I too have gawked at things I considered exotic, knowing full well that I was sometimes the obvious target of a marketing ploy much more real than any of the ‘authentic’ souvenirs for sale.

But that was then. In retrospect, it was a lot like dating. I was younger. I went from place to place without commitment.

I wanted more to learn about myself.

Now I am ready for something more

serious. I want to work, and learn the language, and sink into the rhythm of a place. So I chose Hanoi. I see the wanderers slipping in and out, culturally promiscuous the way I was, but with Hanoi — my Hanoi — it’s difficult not to feel a little defensive. She’s special and they barely even know her.

A few weeks ago I began to notice a strange pattern at our shisha place. We were always the first ones there. It didn’t matter what time of day. We had our pick of seats. Then, sure enough, within a few minutes a few more westerners would trickle over. Finally one day the bartender told us we were good for business.

Westerners draw more westerners. And admittedly, there is something comforting about eavesdropping on an English conversation. Once I heard an American couple trading stories with Australian man — where they had been, novels they were reading, their pontifications about Laos and Cambodia.

American number one: “So, how long are you travelling for?”

Australian: “Well I started a few months ago. I’ll probably continue on until the New Year.”

American number two: “Oh my God, that sounds amazing. I would love to have that type of time off. We’ve only got four weeks for our trip.”

Australian: “It’s fantastic. I like being a nomad — just moving and moving.”

American number one: “Yeah, but ya know what? I’m actually a little tired of living out of a backpack. But I think it’d be cool to live somewhere in Asia… I could do that for a year or two maybe.”

I smiled, and took a puff. Backpacking is just a gateway drug. We all have to do it.

The Word December 2011 | 107

the final say

BY

Do you o w photogr n a a p h that would lo ok g Email it t ood here? o ed wordhan itor@ oi.com

HA NGUY

Girls from different from ethnic minorities — Ha Nhi (L) and Hmong (R) — study at school in Bat Xat, Lao Cai Province

TRIVIA BUFF

Answers on page 2

1) Where does Hitchcock appear in the film Lifeboat?

2) What political party rose to power in China in 1949?

3) What city is known as the world's chocolate capital?

9) What did Jack Horner pull from his pie?

18) What is the soft spot on a baby’s head known as?

10) Who is killed if regicide is committed?

19) There are more telephones than people in what city?

11) What ex-Chancellor of the Exchequer wrote a diet book?

12) What girl group consisted of Esther Bennett, Vernie Bennett, Louise Nurding and Kelle Bryan?

4) How much does one million equal in binary?

20) What singer, did Elvis Presley say, was the greatest in the world?

21) What outdoor pursuit comes from the German for ‘down and rope’?

13) What city was Fillmore west in?

5) How many years of marriage are celebrated on an emerald anniversary?

6) What bird's name is given to a score of two under par in golf?

14) Who won the TV show The X-Factor in its second year?

15) In what year did Celtic Soccer Club first have numbers on the backs of their shirts?

7) What French footballer was voted PFA Player Of 16) In what country are The Sierra Madre Ranges?

The Year in 1999?

8) What legendary American firefighter was sent to extinguish the oilfields of Kuwait in 1991?

108 | The Word December 2011

17) In what context did Thierry replace Ian who had previously replaced Cliff?

22) In what form of transport will you find the cyclic pitch & collective pitch levers?

23) Cathy McGowan was the presenter of what popular show?

24) What do John Travolta, Gary Numan and Nicholas Lyndhurst have in common?

25) If you were travelling at mach 2 how fast would you be travelling?